Two words brother... YOU ROCK! :) I'm putting together an 1:8 scale crawler with an APM 2.6 and decided to try this switch. A bit confused, I found your video and as usual, you make it seem like child's play. It's all about the ground. :) Thanx for the post!
You have a real skill for relaying information- I have an issue that I may be bringing to your help out channel- I am not sure how up to date you are with the pixhawk, but I have a brand new hex that I am dying to tune, but before I head down the garden path, I want to be sure the yaw drift is not due to something else.
I just commented on how I prefer Turnigy over Arduino when it comes to setting up LED lighting in any application I use it for. I have done so many of their lighting systems I ended up purchasing a case of the Turnigy lighting systems for RC Planes. I use it for many other applications besides just RC planes. I have switched over to the varnished copper wiring instead of the braided wiring the Turnigy lighting comes with. It's easier hiding the wiring and can be sealed onto the plane using minwax sealer on my planes. I really like Turnigy products.
Thank you very much for this video, myself and many more as I see on hobby King find this device not working because of that second accu and the missing common ground. I wrote there to look for your video.
Thanks for the link to the video. I agree - Hobbyking need to do more 'how to' videos on their products and not just show the model on a bench when they are released.. Happy flying!
After watching this video I have a somewhat related and unrelated question. Here you show using 2 batteries and needing to connect the negative poles together. So is there a benefit, on any airship, to create a common ground to the airframe and only run the positive leads throughout the different circuits? For example connect the main battery negative to the airframe near the PDB. This would allow the ESC negative lead to be connected near the ESC and only run the positive lead to the PDB. Thus reducing weight and wire clutter.
My Afro 30A Esc's are all powered by the main batteries. (The 680 Pro uses the frame for Pos/Neg connections) I then run the servo wires into Naza Lite from the ESC's, then the Naza to the receiver. I am unsure if I also need to power the PMU with the same main batteries. I believe so, but clarity on wiring or a schematic would sure help. Looks like all I need to do is tie the negative from the 3c (lights & gopro) into the main battery pack. But I think I also need a stepdown (really unsure and don't want to blow out my nav, strobes & headlights).
I'm a big fan of your work with Painless360. You have saved me hours upon hours off my builds! I'm hoping that you also tackle the Pico Switch and Pico Battle Switch by DimensionEngineering. Would love to see how these switches can be used to trigger devices such as landing gear or any number of battle bot gadgets. Would enjoy your insight for any tips and tricks to get the most out of these products. When is it best to run two batteries? What is the best way to rig up power to the PDB? Etc. Thanks so much for your concise tutorials.
+Eli DElia thanks for the idea, I've looked at the switches as they are something that I have not come across before. It appears that they are simple relay devices designed to provide power similar to the switch that we are looking at in this video. If I get a chance to try one I'll make a video. Thanks again for the idea
Well that was interesting , and something that I didnt know about either, but now if I do want to use one of these Turnigy RC switches in the future I have the knowledge, thank you Painless360
Awesome video and I'm glad I stumbled across it. This is helping me get closer to what I'm trying to achieve. Here's my question. I'm currently running 12v lights with an external BEC. The BEC is not powering my receiver or my servo, just my 12v lights. In theory it sounds like the two battery option would work for this. Could I set this up as the "two battery" set up with the BEC being my "second" battery? The internal BEC from my esc would remain as it currently is, acting as the "first battery" powering my receiver. In short, I want to have an on/off switch that is controlled by my transmitter to either turn on or off my external BEC. Thank you for your help! Hopefully you're still providing support here after all these years.
I have one of these and it worked perfectly on my quad. I wired mine into the pcb and had the LEDs running in series. Everything worked fine. Then I swapped out my kk2 for a naza. Nothing else changed, but now my LEDs won't switch on. I have no idea why though. my switch is plugged directly into the receiver like it should be. I did notice before though, if I powered up the system with the switches set for the lights to be on, flicking the flap switch wouldn't turn them off again. I only had control of the LEDs, if the switch was set to the off position as I powered up.
If you have a 3 way switch on your radio can you use this type of switch for say forward neutral reverse on anchor winch for a boat? Or are there specific 3 way switches you could recommend for this purpose. Must say I do enjoy your videos very insightful, thank you.
Thank you for your advise!. I found a way to do it, by the mixers in my Taranis. It was just a question about turning the attention to something else than the switch. Thanks anyway.
Quite new to this hobby.. Should I use all 3 wires coming from the Turnigy RC switch to plug into the receiver or just the signal wire and remove the power/ground? I'm planning on using 2 batteries so the receiver will be powered by the main battery so wouldn't that mean that I should only plug the signal wire in? Thanks and great video.
Thanks for your kind response Painless360, so yeah, I checked the link you provided. One last question: do you use the 5V or the 6V setting? Very informative video you got there, have a good day.
+Painless360 The jumpers let me select what happens in case of a failsafe. For example On Off last state.... But when does the switch follow what i have selected with the jumpers?
That’s helpful But can you please add esc and motors to the receiver while led are connected to a separate battery and the motors in the other battery? Just like this video but only add esc and motors Thanks
Thank you for the nice video. Very well explained. Do you mind if I ask a question. I have a multicopter with rectractable landing gear and landing lights, so I tried to connect both the landing gear and the lights to the channel that controls it all on the receiver with an y-cable. The problem is that when the landing gear is up, the channel is high and the ligths are on, but I want the lights to be on when the landing gear is out of course. The same should also happen at failsafe (no pulse). Cannot figure how to work that out. I have the same switch. Thanks in advance.
Hi, you can control how the switch controls the lights using the jumpers on the side of the switch. Check the manual and you should be able to reverse the way it works.. Best of luck!
Hi! Thanks for a really well presented video, especially the negative cable 'crossover'. One question though -why use a Turnigy switch, as opposed to just plugging the LED circuit straight into the receiver? Diolch yn fawr, Den, Cymru (Wales)
+Sancho González Green No idea, you need to know how much current will be pulled how long you want it to work and you can figure out the mAh size.. Best of luck.
Nice interesting video for me as an old beginner, now I look forward for the R/C setup for the switch in my Taranis XQ7S to let the two switches work for two led systems on the arms and strong video light, please help if there's already a video on your channel ?
The OpenTX mix school playlist covers that early on. It’s not too tricky. I will be adding car and truck specific videos for the FrSky radios in the coming weeks..
Hi there! There is something that is really worrying me... I'm about to start building my quadcopter.. The thing is that I'm basically new in this R/C world. My question is I want to install a switch (not this one but pretty much the same) it uses the JST-XH connector as this one. The problem is that I also want to connect my Buzzer Alarm that uses the same connector of my 3s lipo battery.. Is there a way to connect both at the same time (and even more devices ? ) like a splitter or something ?. Hope that makes sense. Thank you so much you've been really helpful in my building process , best regards.
Ricky Henderson Almost every multirotors uses something called a Power Distribution Board (PBD) that takes the main LIPO battery and supplies the power to all the pieces that need it. The PDB allows you to connect lots of things easily to the main flight battery. If you are new to this then these two series will help - ruclips.net/p/PLYsWjANuAm4r-E61stLchCR4bzY3NmDNh and ruclips.net/p/PLYsWjANuAm4oWuE5ZDX4TAiHBv2i0Xl4m Best of luck with the build.
Really nicely done, well presented! Pardon a newby question though, Your diagram shows a 6s battery powering the LED strip. Isn't a 6s battery 22.2 V? And these LEDs are rated 12V?
Hi Richard, no such thing as a dumb question! You are right, all the LED strips are usually 12v rated. The reason for using them in the explanation of the common ground was to avoid the extra complexity of powering devices like motors and heavier power equipment. Happy flying!
Painless360 Thank you so much for your videos, this is really instructive for the newbies. Just to make sure, doesn't both batteries have to be identical or new for this to work safely? and, its possible to make the negatives connection before the esc's? Greetings.
Thanks for the video. I got to the diagram and stopped, trying to wire up and test the diagram. I can't get it to work. I take the 11V battery and connect it to a step-down voltage regulator to reduce the output to 6V. Once I have 6V coming out, I attach a "Y" cable to the + and a Y cable to the -. The right line from the "Y"s is used to power my RX. The left line from the "Y"s is used to power the device connected to the Turnigy e-switch. RX works fine, but the switch does not. Tried altering the two red wires coming out of the e-switch. Nothing. Have I "blown" the switch somehow? I almost give up! Thankful for any advice...
+Peter Farnsworth Amazing how often that happens to all of us. I had a GPS issue on a model and even swapped out the entire GPS system before I spotted that one of the wires in the connector hadn't caught on the clip in the flight controller and wasn't making contact. Face-palm moment! ;)Happy flying!
I want to turn landing lights on and off independently from nav and marker lights on a DC-3 model plane using a receiver controlled switch on landing gear channel, power from receiver for nav lights, and a separate 9 volt battery for landing lights, with negative sides of motor battery and 9v battery connected. ( Will this work?)
Hi Painless...thanks for the great video and making this simple. I was curious that if you used the flaps channel, would that act as an dimmer for the LED's? Thanks again!
Great video very much needed, could I ask at 5:34 your image what was the UBEC and the On/Off Switch plugged into on the Rx respectively. Thankyou Alan.
So i see for a separate battery you have a single black wire going into the wire from the switch if im not wrong? Or isit best to connect both batteries together
Hi Lee, as always a great video. I'm installing Nav lights in a Skyhunter 1800 and have a Turnigy switch to toggle the system on and off. I'm using an F765 and a FrSky X8R with the Turnigy plugged into a spare servo output on the X8R. The power is taken from the 4S battery. The lights come on, but don't turn off. Do I need to jump the negative across to the X8R?
Thank you for the great video. Two more question please. 1. Is it possible to use this device (PRODUCT ID: LUM-ONF) to use with total 3 meters of LED. HobbyKing Product ID : TR-WP-RE ,PRODUCT ID: TR-WP-GR and PRODUCT ID: TR-Strip-BL. 2. PRODUCT ID: LUM-ONF. In the Spec. it is mentioned Maximum throughput : 10A / 30v. How to know which unit can be connected to this device. Thanks.
Benoy Thomas The spec for those 1m lengths gives you the current draw (400mA or 0.4Amps). If the LED strips run on 12v and the craft and battery can supply the current (not to exceed 10A) then you are good. You may find ruclips.net/video/WN77jzxWCtA/видео.html interesting.
Painless360 Dear Thanks you very much. Very good information. so total for 3 meters LED is 400mA x 3 = 1200 mA = 1.2 A. So still i can use 10A - 1.2A = 8.8 A of LED. Thanks & Best Regards, Benoy, Qatar.
Painless360 Dear Thanks you very much. Very good information. so total for 3 meters LED is 400mA x 3 = 1200 mA = 1.2 A. So still i can use 10A - 1.2A = 8.8 A of LED. Thanks & Best Regards, Benoy, Qatar.
Hello so many thanks for the video as I always come back to this while setting up a turnigy switch. In the first (single battery set-up) is the light getting the full amount of volts from the battery OR only the 5/6v from the RX?
The switch is powered by the 5v from the reciever. This thing works as a switch so whatever battery voltage you use is supplied to the LEDs. Happy flying
At least 3 questions in this comment my friend. I'm new to this part of the RC deal but am i correct in assuming that with this 2 battery hook up everything would still be connected the same way if you decided to hook your load up on the balancing plug of the load battery? Also in this setup where does the wiring of resistors come into play? and after you hook up the 6 leds as you have done, would resistors be hooked into at the end of them before you hook more leds up or would you just hook up more leds at the end of the string you have on the video?
The switch just closes the connection between two wires, just like you touching then ends of them together so if you can get something working with DC current/voltage like that then popping the switch into the circuit just allows you to make that connection by using the remote. Everything else isn't affected. Not sure if that helps..
Hello Painless... I appreciate all your sharing. However, listening to your video you say if there is something else... I have a Hubasn H501s which uses 7.4V Battery which I want to leave alone. I have purchased a smaller 11.1V 3S battery, and like your ideas. However, on my transmitter I am wanting to put another toggle switch on it, and use that for ON/Off of my extra external L.E.D.s. Of course with the Turnigy Relay incorporated. I might be able to figure it out with my knowledge, but if you could, it'd be Great if you could do a schematic of such, and a video would be good, but a schematic on a 15 second video would work for me, Sir. Thanks..... For all you do for strangers out here.
Hi and thanks for a great video. I'm building a Billings 1:144 scale Titanic which would have about white 150 led's throughout the ship. I would like to switch them from my Tx. The motors will run on a 12v lead acid battery plus a second for the lights etc. I need the 2 batteries for ballast. I planned to run my lights from the second battery using a Step Down Voltage Regulator. It has been suggested that I use a Turngey R/C switch to activate a relay that would operate the light circuit. Any suggestions..
I prefer the MenaceRC version now (ruclips.net/video/Zs_LJNgq-DQ/видео.html). Wire up everything as you would normally then cut the positive wire to the lights (or whatever) and solder the little switch in place. A high PWM value to the switch turns it 'on' - simple. Best of luck!
Thanks for this video which was very useful indeed. I'm not entirely sure I understand how the unit works and I am using a receiver powered by an ESC with built in BEC. Should this still work? So my receiver has the ESC plugged into CH1 (which gives the receiver power) and I am plugging the Turnigy switch into CH2. Can I use a multimeter then to spot a change in the Turnigy switch when I move CH2 on the transmitter (Saturn X4)? Thanks for all and any help.
+Ben Lawrence The 'switch' inside is powered from the servo cable in the normal way and the PWM value from the receiver channel it's connected to turns it 'on' or 'off'. Not sure what you are asking but the overview of how it works is in the video. Best of luck with it..
+Painless360 Thanks and sorry I was not clearer. I'll try to make my questions better! 1. In the Turnigy switch's instructions and your video, the diagrams show a separate BEC. However I am using an ESC with a built in BEC. Does this matter and will the switch still work? 2. For a normal switch (or a relay say), I could test whether it had changed state by putting a multimeter across it and measuring resistance. Do you know how I could use a multimeter to test that the Turnigy switch device had changed state? I'm looking to find a way to test it is working without using an LED strip like you have done, but instead use my multimeter. 3. Should the switch work using channels connected to the joysticks on my transmitter (I understood it trips once you get beyond 50%) or do you have to use a switch on the transmitter (eg aux or gear) I'm sure these questions show a complete non-understanding of how the switch works - apologies!
1) Yes. 2) No idea. The switch is a transistor so you should see a 'connection' between the two wires when it's on. 3) ANY channel who's value goes above 50% can be used. Happy flying!
Painless360, I am new to this, and I just got done building a ELEV8 quad copter. I noticed in your video you hooked up one led light to a battery, how would I wire up four of the led lights? I would like to hook-up led lights on each arm so I can tell which way it is flying easily, as I am not a electrician it gets confusing. What would 4 led harnessed up look like?, do you have a video showing how to do this?I do like your informational video's though. Thank you !
+Painless360 oh!! ok, but what kind of connector on the end of all the wires Painless360? Would I solder all red wires together & all black wires together? Thank you !
Hi, thanks for the video. I have one of these switches running some led lights (separate battery with grounds connected). I found the lights can be switched on and off via radio but ONLY with both jumpers in place. If the TX is turned off when the lights are on they remain on and what I want is for the lights to go off when the radio signal is lost. Am I missing something with the jumper settings? If I try any of the other jumper settings the lights are always off and cannot be switched on via the TX.
hellooo..thank you for this usefull video my friend. but i have a question about this controller circuit from you. if i have make a decision to connect a camera instance the LED Light, so it works properly too? no other connections are needed?
I have wired with a single battery per the diagram. With both jumpers in place, my led does work from my gear switch but in the wrong direction. Can't fix that because the servo and switch are set to work the gear properly. So I need the light to work in the reverse direction. If I remove the jumper for on the light comes on or if I remove the jumper for off the light is off. But in these two cases the transmitter switch has no impact at all on the state of the light. If I remove both switches I get nothing. What am I missing? Should not one of the jumper positions allow me to reverse the light coming on in the opposite switch position? Thanks for any help!
Not sure as I use the MenaceRC switch here for most things. It must be one of the jumper settings that will allow for what you need.. Sorry I can't be more help - best of luck!
Don't some lights require 5v to operate? Running straight to the navigation lights or dual strobes from the battery would blow the pcb's wouldn't it? I'm thinking a step down from 12v to 5v would be necessary or am I wrong? I am running a Tarot 680P and was thinking my main stack would power the motors, Naza-lite and Reciever. A secondary 3c would then have all the lights & gopro gimbal. Don't I need a stepdown?
This isn't a 3 way non latching switch right? It's kinda difficult to find those which is weird since almost all the channels on your radio are 3 way. up/ neutral/ down.
Painless360 I need a switch that selects both of the three inputs in short: stick up= activate relay #1 mid position= no action stick down= activate relay #2 Most RC switches only control one function which in my mind is a waste of the other input of that same channel.
You mentioned that this wouldn't be a good option for controlling a motor. Do you have any recommendations for receiver controlled switches that are able to actuate a motor momentarily?
That was due to the low amperage that the switch could handle. You could use this switch to close a more highly rated relay that would in term control the motor.. Best of luck!
Hi again. Thanks for your help. This is what I want to run with my Turnigy 9XR PRO: Generic DC 12V 1/4 Inch Electric Solenoid Valve closed with Supply Voltage: 12V DC Supply Current: 1.4A. I going to use this only for Hot Air Balloon Radio controlled, operating only with the control of burner, using this electric 12v valve for control the flow of liquid gas, and I need one lipo very light (the weight is very important in my 6,5 mts height balloon)
I am using a DX18 sequence to simulate a strobe with LEDs. The on-off event in the sequence is "instantaneous" Is the switching action fast enough to follow the sequence and simulate a strobe? Is a spec available that specifies the switching rate? FYI, the switch I have is defective. The return/replacement process is started.
Hi Curt, no detail that I have found. I suspect that your use case wasn't considered. I suspect that the switching speed is quite fast and any delay is due to the processing of the incoming PPM signal. If you set this up I would be interested in the results. Happy flying!
Painless360 MY RED-FACED BAD!! The thing works - when a proper input voltage is applied!! I thought I had tested everything thoroughly. NOT!! Now to cancel the return claim. And, interestingly, the switch is VERY fast! The switch is so fast that it is possible to see the the effect of the RX signal on the LEDs. Given sufficient on-time, the LEDs flicker, presumably in sync with the RX channel output pulse signal. While cool and cute, it is not what I was looking for, so, I have adjusted the TX sequencer output timing so that the LEDs are only on for a few milliseconds, masking or obscuring the flicker. I now have a cycling double strobe simulation on two 27 LED strips, thanks to my trusty Spektrum DX18 (The DX9 would do the same thing.) and the Turnigy RX switch. Now - to go flying! :-)
my plane came with landing lights with a battery box that takes 2 aa batterys which is 3v in total and have this Turnigy R/C Switch - can I use the 3v and wire it like you did with the 2 lipos in video
Hi Painless, a question if I may. For the life of me I can't see why the common ground issue (when using two batteries), makes a difference. In my application I've modified the top button of an SJ5000 camera to have a remote cable in parallel so that all that needs to happen is to briefly touch the 2 wires to 'simulate' pressing the top button. So, I bought one of these switches hoping that continuity would be made and broken across the 2 red 'output' cables, but for some reason this isn't the case. Obviously I don't want to destroy the SJ5000 by supplying any power to it, so can you see a way that my system could work? I've got some small relays that I was half expecting to use (and might still have to), but I'd like NOT to have to if possible. Thanks in anticipation, and compliments on a marvellous set of videos. Regards Mark in the UK
thecorbies Hi Mark, the ground issue seems to be floating signal related. Not quite got my head around it either but don't care that much ;) The connection will be through a transistor and the other circuits will be about listening to the PWM signal and then sending the voltage to turn the transistor on. This only works if the switch has one side connected to the GND. I would check if one of the sides of the switches on the camera is connected directly to GND and then watch the polarity. No other ideas on this one apart from that.. Best of luck.
Painless360 Hi Painless, and thanks for such a quick and full reply. I'll check out your suggestion, but feel for ultimate (camera) safety I may have to go with the relay. Regards Mark in the UK
Thank you for this video. But I have a question. I have an exacopter with different led(1watt) The exacopter has naza and has connected with receiver. Is possible connect the switch with a wire directly on channel 8(landing gear)??? So when I switch on my radio the landing gear the led go on. I use 3s battery 5200mah for the exacopter And 3s 800mah for gimbal fpv and led. P. S the negative wire (battery 1 and battery 2) is difficult to see. What is the pin that you use to connect the negative. Thank you so much.
@Painless360 ohh so it depends on the component (in this case the turnigy switch) and not a "must-do" when it comes to other switches? I cant seem to grasp the theory behind it
Most use switching transistors and how they are wired and biased and grounded makes the difference. I wouldn't worry about it and just follow the manual.
I have the receiver wire connected to my landing gear channel 5 and want the 'Load' that is the landing lights, to come on when the wheels are lowered. With one or no jumpers fitted, the lights are either permanently on or permanently off. The nearest I can get is with both jumpers in place, whereby the lights come on when the landing gear is raised and go off when it is lowered (opposite to what is required). I've tried reversing the landing gear switch but this does not affect the lights, which still come on when the landing gear is raised. Any idea how to resolve this?
Steve Hurley I would try and get the switch/lights to behave on their own without the gear connected. If the switch doesn't operate in the way shown in the video (on when high, on when low, toggle) then I'd get in touch with Hobbyking for support. Make sure you've used the manual to ensure that you have the jumpers where you need them.. Best of luck.
My lights have a little tiny button you can press to change the flash patterns of the LEDS is there a way to get the TX to turn the lights on and also change the flash patterns ?
Unless there is a way built-in to the control board to do that, it'll be tricky. You could look at a way of replacing the physical switch with some kind of transistor that was controlled from somewhere else but that would be quite a big job. Best of luck
Hi Lea, does the voltage of the batteries matter? I'm running the RX and switch off of a 4 cell 4.8volt and the relay I'm using is running off a 2 cell alkaline pack at 3volts. Is it as simple as connecting the commons? Thanks.
+Painless360 Thanks, I'll check and see if the voltage is increased before I fit the relay into the circuit, if the voltage is still 3 volts I will be happy. I'm using the RC switch to operate old 1950's and 60's rubber powered escapements with 2.4Gig Rc gear, I've even taught my Taranis to fly single channel using the trainer switch, works with both the old escapements and servos. I'll let you know what happens with the switch ASAP.
hope I can still get a response off this old video, I would like to use two seperate batteries as you show however the battery powering my helicopter goes into a BEC stepped down to 6v for my servos, my lights are powered off a straight 2s lipo 8v. My question is this..... If I connect the grounds together will the voltage from my lights trickle into my servos therefore burning them out because they are not rated to handle 8V
+SJTYSKA nope, connecting the ground wires will only provide a common ground for the entire system. It will not allow voltage to flow where it shouldn't do. Best of luck
I'm getting severe servo flutter when I turn on the switch for a 12 volt siren on my giant scale Phoenix Stuka airplane after wiring exactly as shown ? Any suggestions ?
I put them on a switch and hooked them to power and switched it and nothing happens. I went into my transmitter and scrolled through from 0% to 100% on both the high and low channels. Nothing is working. Do you know what else to do or how to troubleshoot this?
Amigo no servo do switch on off que liga no RX é necessário retirar o fio vermelho (+) pra nao queimar o RX. uma vez que meu RX já está sendo alimentado ?
Depende de como você está começando tudo. Os fios vermelho e preto para o switch da saída PWM controlando-o são necessários para alimentá-lo. Veja meu vídeo sobre o switch MenaceRC também...
I know this vid is a little dated but if you are still answering questions on it.... Here it goes i am wondering if this would work with a traxxas xmaxx and its radio/ controller? i want to put a light kit on it using a separate battery. thanks for any replies.
Painless360 when I EBay that all I find are the tips attached to the two wires. I’ve already purchased the 22 gauge wire you recommended so I don’t need the wire it comes with.
Hello there: would you be kind to tell me which UBEC you used to connect to the receiver? and if possible, could you provide me with a link for it?. Thanks, have a good day.
The ones are used I've had for years but a later version can be got from most places i.e. www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Hobbywing-3A-UBEC-RF-Noise-Reduction-Output-BEC-Switch-Mode-5V-6V-max-5A-Lowest-/291411053380?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_3&hash=item43d973cb44 Happy flying!
Do you know any way to make with one channel turn the lights on and off and with another channel make the same lights blink? No matter if the lights are on or off.
Hi again. I have just conected my Solenoide valve with only 1 3S lipo. like you show in video, and doesn't not work; my TX is Turnigy 9XR PRO. The solenoide valve works direct with the lipo, but with the switch not. What I do wrong? Thanks
+Sancho González Green Not sure, I would contact HobbyKing support - they are much better than they used to be and may be able to shed some light on the problem. Best of luck!
Painless360, yes, I think It not work it.. I have bought another one "Evolution Optical Electronic Kill Switch" is more complete and nore trasefull. Thanks for your help.
Hi. Excuse my ignorance, but what is a ubec and do I need one with this switch? I have a 450 size quad and will be operating about 100 led's on a led strip which I'd be using this switch for, many thanks.
Im using a similar receiver controlled switch but having problems getting it to throw to activate LED lights , perhaps I need to play with weight or offset ? Can you suggest some settings please for my Taranis please ?
I have the Turnigy switch wired with a single 3s LiPo with both jumpers in place. It is always on and can't be turned off. Is it possibly defective? TIA
Hi Curt, if you are confident that the board is getting a signal from the reciever that is changing enough then it could be. Hope you get it sorted. Happy flying!
Painless360 When I replace the switch with a servo on the RX, and toggle the TX switch, the servo moves the correct amount. Doing the same with the switch, it never changes state - (always on).
I HAVE A 1989 RICHMANS BATMOBILE AND THE BODY FOR IT DOES NOT COME WITH A BODY CLIP OPTION. IT COMES WITH 4 SCREWS TO SECURE IT TO THE BOTTOM OF THE CHASSIS. SO, I WAS WONDERING IF A TURNIGY SWITCH COULD BE CONNECTED TO IT AND ALLOW ME TO TURN IT OFF AN ON FROM THE CHANNEL 3 SWITCH ON MY TRAXXAS TQI CONTROLLER?
CALVIN Dixon Not sure why you are shouting?! Not sure exactly what you mean but you could connect a solenoid that is connected to the Turnigy switch to latch the cover.. Best of luck with it..
Hola amigo..saludos desde Mexico; puedes ayudarme??.. tengo un FlySky Fsia6b conectada a una sp racing f3... Deseo conectar un switch electronico Lantian pero solo lo hace por la salida del RX en protocolo pwm... Como se conecta a algun AUX de la controladora de vuelo F3??
It'll be an old Turnigy one. You want a 5v 3Amp switched BEC, comes in very handy for setting things up. See my USB cable hack for another handy 5v supply for lower power RC pieces..
I'd look at channel forwarding in Cleanflight where you should be able to output one of the PPM channels into spare PWM pins on the flight controller.. Best of luck!
Finally someone does a proper explanation of how to wire this unit!!!!
Finally, This video is over three years old ;) Happy flying!
I used 2 different batteries and could not figure it out until I seen this video. Thanks!
Two words brother... YOU ROCK! :)
I'm putting together an 1:8 scale crawler with an APM 2.6 and decided to try this switch.
A bit confused, I found your video and as usual, you make it seem like child's play.
It's all about the ground. :)
Thanx for the post!
Glad it got you working! Happy driving!
Thank you P360!
That is the plan my man!!!
Have a great week!!
Great video, you actually listen to people's comments and work towards what people want!
Thank you. I've been trying to switch a police siren on and off. It has been very frustrating, but now I know what to do. Thanks!
You have a real skill for relaying information- I have an issue that I may be bringing to your help out channel- I am not sure how up to date you are with the pixhawk, but I have a brand new hex that I am dying to tune, but before I head down the garden path, I want to be sure the yaw drift is not due to something else.
Great video, you explain the issue and show the workaround in a helpful way.
I just commented on how I prefer Turnigy over Arduino when it comes to setting up LED lighting in any application I use it for. I have done so many of their lighting systems I ended up purchasing a case of the Turnigy lighting systems for RC Planes. I use it for many other applications besides just RC planes. I have switched over to the varnished copper wiring instead of the braided wiring the Turnigy lighting comes with. It's easier hiding the wiring and can be sealed onto the plane using minwax sealer on my planes. I really like Turnigy products.
Sweet video! I just wired up my Me163 Rocket motor with this video... worked perfectly!
Thank you very much for this video, myself and many more as I see on hobby King find this device not working because of that second accu and the missing common ground. I wrote there to look for your video.
Thanks for the link to the video. I agree - Hobbyking need to do more 'how to' videos on their products and not just show the model on a bench when they are released..
Happy flying!
Excellent video as always have on of these in my box for nearly 2 years might just use it now.
After watching this video I have a somewhat related and unrelated question. Here you show using 2 batteries and needing to connect the negative poles together. So is there a benefit, on any airship, to create a common ground to the airframe and only run the positive leads throughout the different circuits? For example connect the main battery negative to the airframe near the PDB. This would allow the ESC negative lead to be connected near the ESC and only run the positive lead to the PDB. Thus reducing weight and wire clutter.
My Afro 30A Esc's are all powered by the main batteries. (The 680 Pro uses the frame for Pos/Neg connections) I then run the servo wires into Naza Lite from the ESC's, then the Naza to the receiver. I am unsure if I also need to power the PMU with the same main batteries. I believe so, but clarity on wiring or a schematic would sure help. Looks like all I need to do is tie the negative from the 3c (lights & gopro) into the main battery pack. But I think I also need a stepdown (really unsure and don't want to blow out my nav, strobes & headlights).
Tricky to follow without a diagram and I'm not a Naza expert either. What's a PMU?
I'm a big fan of your work with Painless360. You have saved me hours upon hours off my builds! I'm hoping that you also tackle the Pico Switch and Pico Battle Switch by DimensionEngineering. Would love to see how these switches can be used to trigger devices such as landing gear or any number of battle bot gadgets. Would enjoy your insight for any tips and tricks to get the most out of these products. When is it best to run two batteries? What is the best way to rig up power to the PDB? Etc. Thanks so much for your concise tutorials.
+Eli DElia thanks for the idea, I've looked at the switches as they are something that I have not come across before. It appears that they are simple relay devices designed to provide power similar to the switch that we are looking at in this video. If I get a chance to try one I'll make a video. Thanks again for the idea
Well that was interesting , and something that I didnt know about either, but now if I do want to use one of these Turnigy RC switches in the future I have the knowledge, thank you Painless360
Awesome video and I'm glad I stumbled across it. This is helping me get closer to what I'm trying to achieve. Here's my question.
I'm currently running 12v lights with an external BEC. The BEC is not powering my receiver or my servo, just my 12v lights. In theory it sounds like the two battery option would work for this. Could I set this up as the "two battery" set up with the BEC being my "second" battery? The internal BEC from my esc would remain as it currently is, acting as the "first battery" powering my receiver.
In short, I want to have an on/off switch that is controlled by my transmitter to either turn on or off my external BEC.
Thank you for your help! Hopefully you're still providing support here after all these years.
You can use two batteries on the radio as shown in the video so as long as you use the GND connection tip I don't see why it wouldn't work..
@@Painless360 thank you. I bought one. Can't wait to give it a try!
I have one of these and it worked perfectly on my quad. I wired mine into the pcb and had the LEDs running in series. Everything worked fine. Then I swapped out my kk2 for a naza. Nothing else changed, but now my LEDs won't switch on. I have no idea why though. my switch is plugged directly into the receiver like it should be. I did notice before though, if I powered up the system with the switches set for the lights to be on, flicking the flap switch wouldn't turn them off again. I only had control of the LEDs, if the switch was set to the off position as I powered up.
Excellent. Thank you SO MUCH for this. Not sure if I can figure out how to wire this to my battery (connector?), but thanks again. You rock, sir!
If you have a 3 way switch on your radio can you use this type of switch for say forward neutral reverse on anchor winch for a boat? Or are there specific 3 way switches you could recommend for this purpose.
Must say I do enjoy your videos very insightful, thank you.
No, it's only an on/off switch... Happy flying
Thank you for your advise!. I found a way to do it, by the mixers in my Taranis. It was just a question about turning the attention to something else than the switch. Thanks anyway.
Quite new to this hobby.. Should I use all 3 wires coming from the Turnigy RC switch to plug into the receiver or just the signal wire and remove the power/ground? I'm planning on using 2 batteries so the receiver will be powered by the main battery so wouldn't that mean that I should only plug the signal wire in? Thanks and great video.
+Alexander Horst i only used it as shown in the video. Best of luck!
Thanks for your kind response Painless360, so yeah, I checked the link you provided. One last question: do you use the 5V or the 6V setting?
Very informative video you got there, have a good day.
I always go for 5v, safer to start lower and increase if I find I need it :) Most flight control boards need only 5v..
Happy flying!
This was excellent help and exactly what I needed. Thanks greatly!
Excellent video! Can you explain when and how the failsafe comes into play? What is the trigger?
+Flo Sch Not sure I understand - there isn't a failsafe on this switch..
+Painless360 The jumpers let me select what happens in case of a failsafe. For example On Off last state....
But when does the switch follow what i have selected with the jumpers?
That’s helpful
But can you please add esc and motors to the receiver while led are connected to a separate battery and the motors in the other battery? Just like this video but only add esc and motors
Thanks
Sorry, I don't understand what you are asking..
Great video but, what if I want to use a nicad for power for the lights and have one lead off the battery. Where will I pickup my ground?
The ground just needs to be common for both batteries and it should work.. Best of luck!
Very good explanation, thanks for the help.
Thank you for the nice video. Very well explained.
Do you mind if I ask a question.
I have a multicopter with rectractable landing gear and landing lights, so I tried to connect both the landing gear and the lights to the channel that controls it all on the receiver with an y-cable. The problem is that when the landing gear is up, the channel is high and the ligths are on, but I want the lights to be on when the landing gear is out of course. The same should also happen at failsafe (no pulse). Cannot figure how to work that out. I have the same switch.
Thanks in advance.
Hi, you can control how the switch controls the lights using the jumpers on the side of the switch. Check the manual and you should be able to reverse the way it works..
Best of luck!
Hi! Thanks for a really well presented video, especially the negative cable 'crossover'. One question though -why use a Turnigy switch, as opposed to just plugging the LED circuit straight into the receiver? Diolch yn fawr, Den, Cymru (Wales)
What if the LEDs don't run on 5v? Would the BEC support the current needed for an LED strip? This is safer way to set it up.
@@Painless360 Thanks, unfortunately HK no longer sell them. Any ideas on an alternate, please?
Very good video! Could I use this switch to interrupt the signal from the receiver to a servo?
+Chris K I would use a mix on the radio for that. It might work - only one way to find out! Best of luck...
Great Video.
What smaller Lipo battery do I need if I only going to use the Turnigy R/C Switch for 10/12v Valve?
+Sancho González Green No idea, you need to know how much current will be pulled how long you want it to work and you can figure out the mAh size.. Best of luck.
OMG thank you SOOOOO much, yes I was just about to send an email to Hobbyking for defective product. Now it all works fiou lol !!!
Nice interesting video for me as an old beginner, now I look forward for the R/C setup for the switch in my Taranis XQ7S to let the two switches work for two led systems on the arms and strong video light, please help if there's already a video on your channel ?
The OpenTX mix school playlist covers that early on. It’s not too tricky. I will be adding car and truck specific videos for the FrSky radios in the coming weeks..
Hi there! There is something that is really worrying me... I'm about to start building my quadcopter.. The thing is that I'm basically new in this R/C world. My question is I want to install a switch (not this one but pretty much the same) it uses the JST-XH connector as this one. The problem is that I also want to connect my Buzzer Alarm that uses the same connector of my 3s lipo battery.. Is there a way to connect both at the same time (and even more devices ? ) like a splitter or something ?. Hope that makes sense. Thank you so much you've been really helpful in my building process , best regards.
Ricky Henderson Almost every multirotors uses something called a Power Distribution Board (PBD) that takes the main LIPO battery and supplies the power to all the pieces that need it. The PDB allows you to connect lots of things easily to the main flight battery.
If you are new to this then these two series will help - ruclips.net/p/PLYsWjANuAm4r-E61stLchCR4bzY3NmDNh and ruclips.net/p/PLYsWjANuAm4oWuE5ZDX4TAiHBv2i0Xl4m
Best of luck with the build.
Painless360 , Always so helpful! thank you so much my friend. I'll take a look right away.
Nice clear video, thank you.
Really nicely done, well presented! Pardon a newby question though, Your diagram shows a 6s battery powering the LED strip. Isn't a 6s battery 22.2 V? And these LEDs are rated 12V?
Hi Richard, no such thing as a dumb question!
You are right, all the LED strips are usually 12v rated.
The reason for using them in the explanation of the common ground was to avoid the extra complexity of powering devices like motors and heavier power equipment.
Happy flying!
Painless360 Thank you so much for your videos, this is really instructive for the newbies. Just to make sure, doesn't both batteries have to be identical or new for this to work safely? and, its possible to make the negatives connection before the esc's? Greetings.
Thanks for the video. I got to the diagram and stopped, trying to wire up and test the diagram. I can't get it to work.
I take the 11V battery and connect it to a step-down voltage regulator to reduce the output to 6V. Once I have 6V coming out, I attach a "Y" cable to the + and a Y cable to the -. The right line from the "Y"s is used to power my RX. The left line from the "Y"s is used to power the device connected to the Turnigy e-switch. RX works fine, but the switch does not. Tried altering the two red wires coming out of the e-switch. Nothing. Have I "blown" the switch somehow? I almost give up! Thankful for any advice...
+Peter Farnsworth Embarrassed to say "Oh, never mind..." Seems it was an imperceptibly small loose wire connection from the switch to the rest.
+Peter Farnsworth Amazing how often that happens to all of us. I had a GPS issue on a model and even swapped out the entire GPS system before I spotted that one of the wires in the connector hadn't caught on the clip in the flight controller and wasn't making contact. Face-palm moment! ;)Happy flying!
I want to turn landing lights on and off independently from nav and marker lights on a DC-3 model plane using a receiver controlled switch on landing gear channel, power from receiver for nav lights, and a separate 9 volt battery for landing lights, with negative sides of motor battery and 9v battery connected. ( Will this work?)
That was a great post. Thank you in advance
Hi Painless...thanks for the great video and making this simple. I was curious that if you used the flaps channel, would that act as an dimmer for the LED's?
Thanks again!
Not with this switch, it's either on of off.. Happy flying!
Thanks...that settles that question! :o)
I hope you don't mind, but I added your link to the Hobby King video for this switch.
Great video very much needed, could I ask at 5:34 your image what was the UBEC and the On/Off Switch plugged into on the Rx respectively.
Thankyou Alan.
+Alan John Sorry, I don't understand what you're asking..
Which port is the UBEC plugged into on the Rx, and also the same for On/Off Switch.
Was it elev, aile,thro,rudd etc. Thankyou Alan.
So i see for a separate battery you have a single black wire going into the wire from the switch if im not wrong? Or isit best to connect both batteries together
Hi Lee, as always a great video. I'm installing Nav lights in a Skyhunter 1800 and have a Turnigy switch to toggle the system on and off. I'm using an F765 and a FrSky X8R with the Turnigy plugged into a spare servo output on the X8R. The power is taken from the 4S battery. The lights come on, but don't turn off. Do I need to jump the negative across to the X8R?
Thats connection is only needed if you are using two seperate batteries. Best of luck
Thank you for the great video. Two more question please.
1. Is it possible to use this device (PRODUCT ID: LUM-ONF) to use with total 3 meters of LED. HobbyKing Product ID : TR-WP-RE ,PRODUCT ID: TR-WP-GR and PRODUCT ID: TR-Strip-BL.
2. PRODUCT ID: LUM-ONF. In the Spec. it is mentioned Maximum throughput : 10A / 30v. How to know which unit can be connected to this device.
Thanks.
Benoy Thomas The spec for those 1m lengths gives you the current draw (400mA or 0.4Amps).
If the LED strips run on 12v and the craft and battery can supply the current (not to exceed 10A) then you are good.
You may find ruclips.net/video/WN77jzxWCtA/видео.html interesting.
Painless360 Dear Thanks you very much. Very good information. so total for 3 meters LED is 400mA x 3 = 1200 mA = 1.2 A. So still i can use 10A - 1.2A = 8.8 A of LED.
Thanks & Best Regards,
Benoy,
Qatar.
Painless360 Dear Thanks you very much. Very good information. so total for 3 meters LED is 400mA x 3 = 1200 mA = 1.2 A. So still i can use 10A - 1.2A = 8.8 A of LED.
Thanks & Best Regards,
Benoy,
Qatar.
Yes you can but leave yourself 'wiggle' room of 20% so I'd only add another 6amps of lights to be safe.
Hello so many thanks for the video as I always come back to this while setting up a turnigy switch.
In the first (single battery set-up) is the light getting the full amount of volts from the battery OR only the 5/6v from the RX?
The switch is powered by the 5v from the reciever. This thing works as a switch so whatever battery voltage you use is supplied to the LEDs. Happy flying
At least 3 questions in this comment my friend.
I'm new to this part of the RC deal but am i correct in assuming that with this 2 battery hook up everything would still be connected the same way if you decided to hook your load up on the balancing plug of the load battery?
Also in this setup where does the wiring of resistors come into play? and after you hook up the 6 leds as you have done, would resistors be hooked into at the end of them before you hook more leds up or would you just hook up more leds at the end of the string you have on the video?
The switch just closes the connection between two wires, just like you touching then ends of them together so if you can get something working with DC current/voltage like that then popping the switch into the circuit just allows you to make that connection by using the remote. Everything else isn't affected. Not sure if that helps..
nah that did not come close to answering the 3 question in my above comment...lol
Hello Painless... I appreciate all your sharing. However, listening to your video you say if there is something else...
I have a Hubasn H501s which uses 7.4V Battery which I want to leave alone. I have purchased a smaller 11.1V 3S battery, and like your ideas. However, on my transmitter I am wanting to put another toggle switch on it, and use that for ON/Off of my extra external L.E.D.s. Of course with the Turnigy Relay incorporated. I might be able to figure it out with my knowledge, but if you could, it'd be Great if you could do a schematic of such, and a video would be good, but a schematic on a 15 second video would work for me, Sir.
Thanks..... For all you do for strangers out here.
Happy to take a look at that but please book a chargeable support call and I can talk you through it. Details on the website. Best of luck!
Ok, thanks.... Ummm... looking all around for the Website.
Hi and thanks for a great video. I'm building a Billings 1:144 scale Titanic which would have about white 150 led's throughout the ship. I would like to switch them from my Tx. The motors will run on a 12v lead acid battery plus a second for the lights etc. I need the 2 batteries for ballast. I planned to run my lights from the second battery using a Step Down Voltage Regulator. It has been suggested that I use a Turngey R/C switch to activate a relay that would operate the light circuit. Any suggestions..
I prefer the MenaceRC version now (ruclips.net/video/Zs_LJNgq-DQ/видео.html). Wire up everything as you would normally then cut the positive wire to the lights (or whatever) and solder the little switch in place. A high PWM value to the switch turns it 'on' - simple. Best of luck!
Thanks for this video which was very useful indeed. I'm not entirely sure I understand how the unit works and I am using a receiver powered by an ESC with built in BEC. Should this still work? So my receiver has the ESC plugged into CH1 (which gives the receiver power) and I am plugging the Turnigy switch into CH2. Can I use a multimeter then to spot a change in the Turnigy switch when I move CH2 on the transmitter (Saturn X4)? Thanks for all and any help.
+Ben Lawrence The 'switch' inside is powered from the servo cable in the normal way and the PWM value from the receiver channel it's connected to turns it 'on' or 'off'. Not sure what you are asking but the overview of how it works is in the video. Best of luck with it..
+Painless360 Thanks and sorry I was not clearer. I'll try to make my questions better!
1. In the Turnigy switch's instructions and your video, the diagrams show a separate BEC. However I am using an ESC with a built in BEC. Does this matter and will the switch still work?
2. For a normal switch (or a relay say), I could test whether it had changed state by putting a multimeter across it and measuring resistance. Do you know how I could use a multimeter to test that the Turnigy switch device had changed state? I'm looking to find a way to test it is working without using an LED strip like you have done, but instead use my multimeter.
3. Should the switch work using channels connected to the joysticks on my transmitter (I understood it trips once you get beyond 50%) or do you have to use a switch on the transmitter (eg aux or gear)
I'm sure these questions show a complete non-understanding of how the switch works - apologies!
1) Yes. 2) No idea. The switch is a transistor so you should see a 'connection' between the two wires when it's on. 3) ANY channel who's value goes above 50% can be used.
Happy flying!
Great video!
Painless360, I am new to this, and I just got done building a ELEV8 quad copter. I noticed in your video you hooked up one led light to a battery, how would I wire up four of the led lights? I would like to hook-up led lights on each arm so I can tell which way it is flying easily, as I am not a electrician it gets confusing. What would 4 led harnessed up look like?, do you have a video showing how to do this?I do like your informational video's though. Thank you !
+Tom Wolves You would connect them in parallel (all reds together, all blacks together).
+Painless360 oh!! ok, but what kind of connector on the end of all the wires Painless360? Would I solder all red wires together & all black wires together? Thank you !
Any will work but I'd normally just solder for ease.
Hi, thanks for the video. I have one of these switches running some led lights (separate battery with grounds connected). I found the lights can be switched on and off via radio but ONLY with both jumpers in place. If the TX is turned off when the lights are on they remain on and what I want is for the lights to go off when the radio signal is lost. Am I missing something with the jumper settings? If I try any of the other jumper settings the lights are always off and cannot be switched on via the TX.
No idea, I'd contact HK support as everything I know about it is in the video.. Best of luck!
nicely done
hellooo..thank you for this usefull video my friend. but i have a question about this controller circuit from you. if i have make a decision to connect a camera instance the LED Light, so it works properly too? no other connections are needed?
Should do, if there is a common GND between the switch and the thing it's controlling..
I have wired with a single battery per the diagram. With both jumpers in place, my led does work from my gear switch but in the wrong direction. Can't fix that because the servo and switch are set to work the gear properly. So I need the light to work in the reverse direction. If I remove the jumper for on the light comes on or if I remove the jumper for off the light is off. But in these two cases the transmitter switch has no impact at all on the state of the light. If I remove both switches I get nothing. What am I missing? Should not one of the jumper positions allow me to reverse the light coming on in the opposite switch position? Thanks for any help!
Not sure as I use the MenaceRC switch here for most things. It must be one of the jumper settings that will allow for what you need.. Sorry I can't be more help - best of luck!
question. instead if connecting it to my battery, could i hook it up to a JST connector and have it run off my PDB?
Yes you can. Happy flying!
Don't some lights require 5v to operate? Running straight to the navigation lights or dual strobes from the battery would blow the pcb's wouldn't it? I'm thinking a step down from 12v to 5v would be necessary or am I wrong? I am running a Tarot 680P and was thinking my main stack would power the motors, Naza-lite and Reciever. A secondary 3c would then have all the lights & gopro gimbal. Don't I need a stepdown?
Yes, some do. In that case I'd use a BEC to drop the battery voltage down to 5v. Happy flying!
can you hook the Turnigy R/C Switch into the balance plug for its power, and then hook the rest up the way you are doing in the video?
+David Dobson yep, that'll work..
This isn't a 3 way non latching switch right? It's kinda difficult to find those which is weird since almost all the channels on your radio are 3 way. up/ neutral/ down.
jevries Not sure what you mean, this will select one of the three inputs that correspond with the PWM value It sees on the signal wire..
Painless360 I need a switch that selects both of the three inputs in short:
stick up= activate relay #1
mid position= no action
stick down= activate relay #2
Most RC switches only control one function which in my mind is a waste of the other input of that same channel.
You mentioned that this wouldn't be a good option for controlling a motor. Do you have any recommendations for receiver controlled switches that are able to actuate a motor momentarily?
That was due to the low amperage that the switch could handle. You could use this switch to close a more highly rated relay that would in term control the motor.. Best of luck!
Hi again.
Thanks for your help.
This is what I want to run with my Turnigy 9XR PRO:
Generic DC 12V 1/4 Inch Electric Solenoid Valve closed with Supply Voltage: 12V DC Supply Current: 1.4A.
I going to use this only for Hot Air Balloon Radio controlled, operating only with the control of burner, using this electric 12v valve for control the flow of liquid gas, and I need one lipo very light (the weight is very important in my 6,5 mts height balloon)
+Sancho González Green I can't see why it won't work but I'd test everything before you build and install the solenoid for real. Best of luck.
I am using a DX18 sequence to simulate a strobe with LEDs. The on-off event in the sequence is "instantaneous" Is the switching action fast enough to follow the sequence and simulate a strobe? Is a spec available that specifies the switching rate?
FYI, the switch I have is defective. The return/replacement process is started.
Hi Curt, no detail that I have found. I suspect that your use case wasn't considered.
I suspect that the switching speed is quite fast and any delay is due to the processing of the incoming PPM signal.
If you set this up I would be interested in the results.
Happy flying!
Painless360
MY RED-FACED BAD!! The thing works - when a proper input voltage is applied!! I thought I had tested everything thoroughly.
NOT!!
Now to cancel the return claim.
And, interestingly, the switch is VERY fast! The switch is so fast that it is possible to see the the effect of the RX signal on the LEDs. Given sufficient on-time, the LEDs flicker, presumably in sync with the RX channel output pulse signal. While cool and cute, it is not what I was looking for, so, I have adjusted the TX sequencer output timing so that the LEDs are only on for a few milliseconds, masking or obscuring the flicker.
I now have a cycling double strobe simulation on two 27 LED strips, thanks to my trusty Spektrum DX18 (The DX9 would do the same thing.) and the Turnigy RX switch.
Now - to go flying! :-)
Hi Curt! Live and learn! :) Glad it's all working..
Is there any switch that works as a relay? Then you don't need to connect the commons.
Can you please make a video on how to increase range on our rc transmitter?
If you want that then look at LRS systems and things like TBS crossfire.. Best of luck!
The first video for the Crossfire went up today! Hope it helps..
Thank you so much. I was pulling my hair out.
my plane came with landing lights with a battery box that takes 2 aa batterys which is 3v in total and have this Turnigy R/C Switch - can I use the 3v and wire it like you did with the 2 lipos in video
+richard wilde Not sure - you can try it and see.. Best of luck!
Hi Painless, a question if I may. For the life of me I can't see why the common ground issue (when using two batteries), makes a difference. In my application I've modified the top button of an SJ5000 camera to have a remote cable in parallel so that all that needs to happen is to briefly touch the 2 wires to 'simulate' pressing the top button. So, I bought one of these switches hoping that continuity would be made and broken across the 2 red 'output' cables, but for some reason this isn't the case. Obviously I don't want to destroy the SJ5000 by supplying any power to it, so can you see a way that my system could work? I've got some small relays that I was half expecting to use (and might still have to), but I'd like NOT to have to if possible. Thanks in anticipation, and compliments on a marvellous set of videos.
Regards Mark in the UK
thecorbies Hi Mark, the ground issue seems to be floating signal related. Not quite got my head around it either but don't care that much ;)
The connection will be through a transistor and the other circuits will be about listening to the PWM signal and then sending the voltage to turn the transistor on. This only works if the switch has one side connected to the GND. I would check if one of the sides of the switches on the camera is connected directly to GND and then watch the polarity.
No other ideas on this one apart from that.. Best of luck.
Painless360 Hi Painless, and thanks for such a quick and full reply. I'll check out your suggestion, but feel for ultimate (camera) safety I may have to go with the relay. Regards Mark in the UK
Thank you for this video.
But I have a question.
I have an exacopter with different led(1watt)
The exacopter has naza and has connected with receiver.
Is possible connect the switch with a wire directly on channel 8(landing gear)???
So when I switch on my radio the landing gear the led go on.
I use 3s battery 5200mah for the exacopter
And 3s 800mah for gimbal fpv and led.
P. S the negative wire (battery 1 and battery 2) is difficult to see.
What is the pin that you use to connect the negative.
Thank you so much.
That should work, you may have to move the jumpers on the switch so it comes on when you want it to..
Best of luck with it..
hi! i may be years late, but can i ask for an explanation why the batteries need to have a common ground for the switch to work? Thank you!
I didnt' design it so not sure exactly.
@Painless360 ohh so it depends on the component (in this case the turnigy switch) and not a "must-do" when it comes to other switches? I cant seem to grasp the theory behind it
Most use switching transistors and how they are wired and biased and grounded makes the difference. I wouldn't worry about it and just follow the manual.
@@Painless360 ohh i see! Thank you for taking the time to reply!
I have the receiver wire connected to my landing gear channel 5 and want the 'Load' that is the landing lights, to come on when the wheels are lowered.
With one or no jumpers fitted, the lights are either permanently on or permanently off. The nearest I can get is with both jumpers in place, whereby the lights come on when the landing gear is raised and go off when it is lowered (opposite to what is required).
I've tried reversing the landing gear switch but this does not affect the lights, which still come on when the landing gear is raised.
Any idea how to resolve this?
Steve Hurley I would try and get the switch/lights to behave on their own without the gear connected. If the switch doesn't operate in the way shown in the video (on when high, on when low, toggle) then I'd get in touch with Hobbyking for support. Make sure you've used the manual to ensure that you have the jumpers where you need them..
Best of luck.
My lights have a little tiny button you can press to change the flash patterns of the LEDS is there a way to get the TX to turn the lights on and also change the flash patterns ?
Unless there is a way built-in to the control board to do that, it'll be tricky. You could look at a way of replacing the physical switch with some kind of transistor that was controlled from somewhere else but that would be quite a big job. Best of luck
Hi Lea, does the voltage of the batteries matter? I'm running the RX and switch off of a 4 cell 4.8volt and the relay I'm using is running off a 2 cell alkaline pack at 3volts. Is it as simple as connecting the commons? Thanks.
+iflylilplanes I think so but I've not tried it. That's something to try on the bench before wiring it into the model - best of luck!
+Painless360
Thanks, I'll check and see if the voltage is increased before I fit the relay into the circuit, if the voltage is still 3 volts I will be happy. I'm using the RC switch to operate old 1950's and 60's rubber powered escapements with 2.4Gig Rc gear, I've even taught my Taranis to fly single channel using the trainer switch, works with both the old escapements and servos. I'll let you know what happens with the switch ASAP.
hope I can still get a response off this old video, I would like to use two seperate batteries as you show however the battery powering my helicopter goes into a BEC stepped down to 6v for my servos, my lights are powered off a straight 2s lipo 8v. My question is this..... If I connect the grounds together will the voltage from my lights trickle into my servos therefore burning them out because they are not rated to handle 8V
+SJTYSKA nope, connecting the ground wires will only provide a common ground for the entire system. It will not allow voltage to flow where it shouldn't do. Best of luck
I'm getting severe servo flutter when I turn on the switch for a 12 volt siren on my giant scale Phoenix Stuka airplane after wiring exactly as shown ? Any suggestions ?
I'd suspect something power related as the first thing to check.. Best of luck!
I put them on a switch and hooked them to power and switched it and nothing happens. I went into my transmitter and scrolled through from 0% to 100% on both the high and low channels. Nothing is working. Do you know what else to do or how to troubleshoot this?
Jordan Mowbray do you have a picture of how you have got it wired?
Can I remove a jumper and use that to run a ground wire?
Amigo no servo do switch on off que liga no RX é necessário retirar o fio vermelho (+) pra nao queimar o RX. uma vez que meu RX já está sendo alimentado ?
Depende de como você está começando tudo. Os fios vermelho e preto para o switch da saída PWM controlando-o são necessários para alimentá-lo. Veja meu vídeo sobre o switch MenaceRC também...
@@Painless360 Então quer dizer que na verdade o RX é que vai Alimentar o Switch On/Off e não ao contrário, é isso ?
Normalmente, verifique o manual para o que você tem. Boa sorte
@@Painless360 ok
I know this vid is a little dated but if you are still answering questions on it.... Here it goes i am wondering if this would work with a traxxas xmaxx and its radio/ controller? i want to put a light kit on it using a separate battery. thanks for any replies.
It should work fine. it's just like replacing aphysical switch with this thing. That gotcha with the grounds needing to be common is the only one..
you connected the LED strip to Balance Lead, is that OK? or can it cause a unbalanced battery??
+Shaya Sonnenberg The LEDs use very little power compared with the motors.. Best of luck!
How would one go about getting that white connector you have coming from the led?
ebay. Google '3S balance tap'..
Painless360 when I EBay that all I find are the tips attached to the two wires. I’ve already purchased the 22 gauge wire you recommended so I don’t need the wire it comes with.
great vid thank you a lot!
Hello there: would you be kind to tell me which UBEC you used to connect to the receiver? and if possible, could you provide me with a link for it?. Thanks, have a good day.
The ones are used I've had for years but a later version can be got from most places i.e. www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Hobbywing-3A-UBEC-RF-Noise-Reduction-Output-BEC-Switch-Mode-5V-6V-max-5A-Lowest-/291411053380?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_3&hash=item43d973cb44
Happy flying!
Looks like the RC switch has a output MOSFET switch, in which case you have to connect the BAT- common. Good explanation though.
+Aaqil Khan Thanks :)
Do you know any way to make with one channel turn the lights on and off and with another channel make the same lights blink? No matter if the lights are on or off.
Yep - ruclips.net/video/Zlpo3Pa5T_4/видео.html and check out my tip on auto changing Opentx channel values.. Happy flying!
Hi again.
I have just conected my Solenoide valve with only 1 3S lipo. like you show in video, and doesn't not work; my TX is Turnigy 9XR PRO.
The solenoide valve works direct with the lipo, but with the switch not.
What I do wrong?
Thanks
+Sancho González Green Not sure, I would contact HobbyKing support - they are much better than they used to be and may be able to shed some light on the problem. Best of luck!
Painless360, yes, I think It not work it..
I have bought another one "Evolution Optical Electronic Kill Switch" is more complete and nore trasefull.
Thanks for your help.
does the ubec have to be wired in as well? or can you just hook the Turnigy R/C Switch to the receiver and your leds?
+David Dobson nothing needed except power and the PWM signal..
Hello and thanks for the video.How do I get one o these switches to work if my radio is ppm and im using a pixhawk FC
You need to see if you can present the PWM signal for it on a spare PWM output. Look up 'channel forwarding'. Best of luck!
Hi. Excuse my ignorance, but what is a ubec and do I need one with this switch? I have a 450 size quad and will be operating about 100 led's on a led strip which I'd be using this switch for, many thanks.
+tp2fly See our videos in the 'Introduction to Remote Control' playlist as we cover all of the basics there, including this. Best of luck!
+Painless360 Ok thankyou
Im using a similar receiver controlled switch but having problems getting it to throw to activate LED lights , perhaps I need to play with weight or offset ? Can you suggest some settings please for my Taranis please ?
+Marcus Whitehead ive only used this model of switcher. I'd look in the forums for the exact one your using. Best of luck!
Is it possible to download your circuit diagrams .
?
You can screenshot the video if you need a copy. Best of luck
you rock !
awesome !
Thanks Wilson, appreciated! :)
Will this switch work with flysky fs-i6 transmitter ?? if not which switch should I buy then. Thanks in advance.
I've not tried it but I don't see why not. It uses standard signals. Best of luck
I have the Turnigy switch wired with a single 3s LiPo with both jumpers in place. It is always on and can't be turned off. Is it possibly defective?
TIA
Hi Curt, if you are confident that the board is getting a signal from the reciever that is changing enough then it could be. Hope you get it sorted. Happy flying!
Painless360 When I replace the switch with a servo on the RX, and toggle the TX switch, the servo moves the correct amount. Doing the same with the switch, it never changes state - (always on).
What is the voltage output from the balance plug?
The outside pins are the battery voltage..
I HAVE A 1989 RICHMANS BATMOBILE AND THE BODY FOR IT DOES NOT COME WITH A BODY CLIP OPTION. IT COMES WITH 4 SCREWS TO SECURE IT TO THE BOTTOM OF THE CHASSIS. SO, I WAS WONDERING IF A TURNIGY SWITCH COULD BE CONNECTED TO IT AND ALLOW ME TO TURN IT OFF AN ON FROM THE CHANNEL 3 SWITCH ON MY TRAXXAS TQI CONTROLLER?
CALVIN Dixon Not sure why you are shouting?! Not sure exactly what you mean but you could connect a solenoid that is connected to the Turnigy switch to latch the cover..
Best of luck with it..
Hola amigo..saludos desde Mexico;
puedes ayudarme??.. tengo un FlySky Fsia6b conectada a una sp racing f3... Deseo conectar un switch electronico Lantian pero solo lo hace por la salida del RX en protocolo pwm... Como se conecta a algun AUX de la controladora de vuelo F3??
Lo siento pero no he usado uno de esos interruptores. Buena suerte con eso..
Which ubec did you use in this video? Thank You!
It'll be an old Turnigy one. You want a 5v 3Amp switched BEC, comes in very handy for setting things up. See my USB cable hack for another handy 5v supply for lower power RC pieces..
Hello where you buying this striped LED please can you send me one link for buy this .Thanks you .
+Fabwiss Fabrizio just Google for WS2812 LED strip. That should find it.
Is it possible to operate the switch in PPM mode and configuring it on Cleanflight?
I'd look at channel forwarding in Cleanflight where you should be able to output one of the PPM channels into spare PWM pins on the flight controller.. Best of luck!
Thank you. I thought it was possible to use one of the output channels on the flight controller. I enjoy your channel thanks for your help.