If I Can Make This Work I'm Running For Pres.... NM
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- Опубликовано: 7 окт 2024
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I am running a similar set-up with the same hat and I had my boost signal from the same 90 degree angle of air flow in my hat as you do. I was having the same issue along with a couple of others. A blow-thru "Guru" suggested putting my refence port directly in the path of the air flow on the opposite side of the carb in the hat. That is where the first and truest signal is. I drilled and tapped one in there, plugged the other port and walla it was like magic. Problems gone, good luck.
President of Ford to bring the FOX back :)
I wouldn't be surprised when selling greater numbers of units makes sense again. Was cool to see digital gauges, on new S650 cars, that can replicate foxbody gauges. Could be forshadowing to see the return of lower price point Mustangs for a reinvented middle class eventually. Things go in cycles historically.
@vancouverelectricfootballn5426 yall are dreaming man as cool as all this sounds its pure fantasy. Well be lucky if the v8 even makes it into the next generation it's already completely locked down now tuning wise. We're trending towards boring shit cars with more tech more price and less personality. It's sad but true.
Political thinking would certainly need to change again. Ford could also screw up and look to ecoboost, EV or hybrid only concepts for a new Foxbody. Everybody knows the charging stations and infrastructure, for only EV built cars, is a good number of years away. It'd be a travesty to see a new foxbody mustang generation that doesn't include a gas powered V8 too. Ford would be stupid not to even consider a futuristic return to the foxbody if it can be done right. I wouldn't want to see the foxbody legacy tarnished either.
The squirters pump more fuel than it needs when you go off and back onto the throttle that’s the issue. When you power shift your foot stays down and doesn’t pump those extra shots of fuel which is designed to get the car up and going from a stop. Also get a vacuum gauge to hook to the baseplate to adjust the carb to get the most vacuum in the engine to make it run the most efficiently and efficiently as close to fuel injection as possible. I’m a self taught carb guru because I needed to know everything about carbs that I could. I ran a 750 Drag Race Holley on my Cobra Clone and it has to be adjusted every 3 or 4 weeks depending on how much you drive it.
The massive turbulence above the butterflies when abruptly getting off the throttle drives the booster signal nuts. Booster, thats what delivers the fuel. 😅(Theres several different styles.) That's why power shifting doesn't cause stumble. The airflow across the booster stays constant.
Changing boosters might reduce the problem, but the massive air upset/turbulence can't be eliminated.
Remember, fuel injectors are impervious to air flow turbulence at the throttle body..
Exactly this!
The extra air coming in from turbo into the butterflies needs transitioned into a smoother signal. Possibly move the reference port further back the air pipe and block off the other port. In doing so, air flow should be smoother and not swirling around at the butterfly entrance of the carb. This was covered on Engine Masters with a 1 to1 fuel regulator, blow through setup. Jets will help, but not smooth out the signal.
It's rich and without the power valve it's mostly just jets now (fuel pressure aside). In the old days reading plugs we started with the primaries by DISCONNECTING the secondary linkage to take them out of the equation until the primaries were right. Then hook back up and check them both together primary and secondary. Just a thought it wasn't a turbo car so my understanding is limited but I don't see trouble shooting all 4 barrels together right away.
Mannnnn now that is what I call some good troubleshooting Brother! GREAT JOB!! 👊🏾👊🏾
Progress is a process. I enjoy all of the journey.
Pv affects power enrichment not when you step on and off throttle. Try accelerator pump shot after you get the jets closer.
Great set up. I have a c&s blow thru set up and a sbf f2 procharger set up on a 93 cobra. It’s been fun getting to learn the timing and boost reference Love your videos.
Thanks brother
Bill is good ppl man . Sure he would help u . He just lost his mother tho . So i would give it a wk or so .
Man you get it figured out, your talking to the right guys that know this setup, enough changes you will find it,
That's Crazy I just realized your store intake hood and my tv were made by the same people.. I bet my tv is fast as sh*t if draggy it😂
Good stuff champ keep it up
Lol making the fox body great again
Accelerator pumps are where the fuel is coming from I would almost bet money . Everytime you let off and get back into it your dumbing fuel into it. Maybe try either less aggressive pump cams or smaller accelerator squirter's
Try to shorten or remove the vent tube extensions seeing how they add fuel to...
Picture how a power valve works.
When youre under boost the boost pressure inside the carb/ manifold is forcing against the PV trying to keep it closed. Eliminating the PV lets the fuel circuits see a greater demand and dump more fuel.
🙄
You will get it figured out! That is weird though that it was richer without the power valve!
If you’re running a Holley ECU, could be the processing time it takes to adjust your fuel table?? There wire that is ran from the ecu to the end point as you know has resistance. The resistance can slow signal speed. Possibly it could be how it’s processed in the ecu
I’ve remedied this issue with going up on my squirters , then I added a 50mm bov 6 inches from my carb hat.
Btw im interested in the carburator saga you have going on … i love to learn !!!
Well at least u marked one of your question of the list. Hurry up and solve the problem so I can put my vote in for u 😎😎 Mr pres.🇺🇸
I’m glad we marked one thing off the list. BREW2L 2024 🫡🙌🇺🇸
Yeah we can do a write in election 😂😂
It seems like it's despooling when you shift and then she's richining up till it builds boost back.
That’s definitely some of the problem. I think leaning it out some should start to help it pull itself out quicker after the stumble
Maybe the rpm is too low and the motor is in a bog when he goes into each gear and when the engine reaches higher rpms it leans out and is happier . Just a thought
Been fighting carb issues for about a year
Why not just get a Holley Sniper and be done with it. Don’t get me wrong, I love the Boosted carb setup, but the Stealth Sniper is very tune-able…
In Brew2l we trust. Brew2l 2024 😂😂
Let’s gooooo 🤣✊
Nice!
You'll get it fixed this kinda stuff can wear on us though. Take mine for instance I wanted to take it out and put some gas into it for this weekend. But nope starter keeps hanging up all of a sudden!!! New starter and relay/solenoid and it's still doing it. Starter won't disengage. GOT MATCH!!
Relay.
Hook a test light in parallel and watch it.
Thanks I'll get back at it tomorrow.
I think it needs 1 size down on the jets.
Switch to auto trans, 10r80, no hickup between gears then
No. That would not be the Trans to go with if he did go auto. You don't need all those gears on turbo applications they like to remain in gear building boost and power.
Very interesting .. i dont know as much as you do but i do know in order to get the correct afr you have to calculate the extra air being forced into the carb from the turbo .. so ur running rich .. what happens if you add another pound of boost would that even the afr out so that its running correctly ??? Im a carb guy just never got a turbo bolted on yet so im shooting from the hip
Im no genius, when you power shift, the fuel in the carb is continuously against one bowl and away from other. Flush slosh is a real thing. Lol signed your brother
Does it have a blow off valve? If not, could it help? You did say it was overjetted too. Also, have you tried an angled carb spacer and tilted it forward a few degrees? Seems like your rich condition is under WOT. Maybe its a float level issue? I would also give a recommendation to find brass wire mesh screen and glue it between two carb base gaskets. That wouldn't hurt to try making sure the fuel vaporizes. Running anything for a fuel cooler? Maybe the cam and timing has an effect? What would typically be a vacuum signal from an otherwise NA motor, do these affect blowthrough setups the same?
Vacuum pressure is still in the regulator......put it on co2 pressure boss
Have you thought about putting Percy ajust -a- jet kit metering block
That the same problem I had with mine
Hey Brew2l who's that? Oh! Its you. Didnt recognize you with all your clothes on! Lololol. Really enjoy your channel. Did you get the pics of my 1985 Dech hatchcack??
Hatchback!
It’s me with clothes on! 🤣 I didn’t get them
Run some lowdollar motorsports sensors with your terminator
Change the shape of that cold side pipe
You do t have a boost leak or something, do you? Low boost numbers/fat running would sorts lean that way. Doesn’t even really have to be a huge one, just one that’s enough to hurt the spool up after the shift, cause it to run fat for a bit, and then it can never really catch back up.
Not a carb guy, but I do work for a fairly large diesel turbo shop, and boost or exhaust leaks are 90% of the issues we run into as far as not running correctly.
Could be accelerator cams.
Awesome video. Question, what can cause vibration? I changed the spark plugs and it got better and I have bought a new harmonic balancer but I haven’t installed it yet. Appreciate the feedback
quick ? i have 90 gt and purchased it from a guy who is no longer with us (RIP) he had the engine built cam an so forth. it keeps breaking flexplate within a 150 miles I am wondering if I need to check or the stall converter when applying the brake the care tends to want to power thru.
You could fool with a carburetor the rest of your life, an never get it just right, prove me wrong lol
Paint that hood
I wonder if your regulator is over pressurizing the carb? Pushing fuel through when you don't want it?
That’s a strange ur still using tfi on the distributor with a carb setup
I'm building a stock block 347 right now. Are you using a 5qt pan or 7qt? I was planning on using the stock oil pan but I have a single turbo with an oil cooler. You think it will starve for oil?
I kinda wonder what happens if you open up your air bleeds a tad bit !!
I did that. It leaned out the idle and cruise afr only.
Instead of messing with the fuel why not give it a couple pounds of boost
Was the car originally an automatic transmission? Maybe the ECU's getting tricked if a manual TKX transmission replaced an orginal AODE? Also a bigger MAF might help to manage all of the air on the high end range of RPM's? My car's getting a 90mm SCT MAF because the ECU can't manage all of the new air after about 4878 RPM. Insufficient MAF hasn't kept up with the boost via Vortech V2 SI trim on my '94 347 stroker. My tuner called it "pegging" where, for maybe 0.1 - 0.2 seconds, all power seems to disappear then reappear like a hiccup at around 4,000 rpm. My car was originally an AODE and was swapped to a manual 5 speed Tremec TKO 600. My tuner was able to remove the pegging issue, upon learning the tranny was swapped, and a bigger MAF will be the cherry on top to find all available HP on a slightly low boost set up! Good luck. ECU's can be confused by faulty sensors and auto to manual tranny swaps. (Chip upgrade in order?) Hope this might help. A 25° adjustment in timing also solved my lean problem too. Cold starts are a breeze now.
It's a carburetor.
@@hotrodray6802 the carb/turbo/plugs all look good. An outdated and newly overutilized ECU could be the culprit re: power/boost loss in higher RPMs. My car's been going through these issues during some dynotuning this summer. MAF sensor upgrade should help my newly chipped ECU to better understand a Vortech boosted application. I see similarities between my 347 car and Calypso. These issues (power loss) weren't on my radar heading into dyno tuning either. Just sharing some info that might be the missing link in solving a microscopic issue. My car is EFI. More dependant on the ECU than a carburated set up though. An ECU could be tricked if it was originally used with an automatic transmission then retained after swapping to a manual transmission. Not sure if Calypso ever had an AODE.
Are you sure it's running rich? My mustang with roush supercharger hits high 8's on the A/F. Correct me if I'm wrong but I was under the impression boosted cars should have richer readings than N/A cars.
Only for fuel cooling effects.
They are supposed to be richer but there is no way you should ever see 8s at wide open throttle. 11-11.5 or so is tbe sweet spot usually on boosted stuff. 12 is like the cutoff anything above that is very dangerous so most shoot for mid 11s for safety 10s is pretty rich at wide open throttle and 8s is just ridiculous. You should look into that. Na applications run like 13-14 range.
@@midnight347 I did look into it and ford said that's exactly where it's supposed to be. They warrantied it so it's on them. I've had the car since 2018 and never had a single issue with it. It don't stumble and pulls like a freight train
If you added more boost would it get your air fuel ratio better?
I’ve thought about that actually
blow off valve / bypass valve ?
wouldnt the computer learn if you just keep driving it - or is the ECU out of the control loop?
It only controls Timing
I know youve prolly already been there..... what about the tuner?
what cowl hood is that?
Is the intake a dual or single plane?
Single
In my fox I've had issues like yours, I'm running a standalone ecu not a holley though. I cant remember the exact fix I did, But the issue between gears is it a stumble as like a bogging feeling and falls on its face for a moment or a miss fire feeling but not necessarily a miss? I may be able to help, I've mainly wored as a mechanic most of my life, and last several years on motorcycles. so, I dealt with a lot o carb bikes that has issues like your cars having. I just kind of need some more detail on how its acting exactly. Maybe try bumping the timing up a few degrees at a time at the KPA value it lands on in ignition map in between shifts? I know I messed with my fuel and ignition map a lot to fix the issues I had, But I also played with some of the different fuel settings on top of the main maps. If you read this shoot me a reply or DM me on facebook Jared Petriello, I'm fairly sure I follow you facebook as well. It'll be easy to talk to you and try to help through messenger vs on here. Either way hope you get it figured out love the channel and all the builds very much.