Airsoft setup comparison. Regular MOSFET vs. Gate TITAN.
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- Опубликовано: 14 май 2017
- After seven years I decided to make a full internal overhaul of my old G&P Sentry/Mk18.
I got a new shell, SHS 13:1 gears, a full metal teeth rack piston, aluminium piston head, double o-ring cylinder head and a spring guide with bearings and did the install and adjusting.
I also changed the old MOSFET with brake with a new one.
However, the trigger assembly was old and tired, so I opted to solve the last problem with a Gate TITAN unit.
Here's the video of the difference. 
Авто/Мото
Thts gate titan has everything sounding just a little tighter and crisp
Loved how this aeg sounds
Thanks! One of these days I'll record an update :)
Fancy seeing you
"like" from other Titan user :)
Thanks for the video helped out a lot by chance did you have to do any filing or cutting to the gearbox to get the titan to fit thanks have a good day
I somehow missed this comment: No, no filing needed. In some cases you'll need to get rid of the pins that center the two halves of the gearbox, as shown in the official assembly video.
I have a quite simular setup with some changes and shs ht motor on top, thinking of ordering Titan till end of this month since I get 20% off till then. It's quite expensive but I think I'm going to go for it for unknown reason. Are you happy with your purchase?
Very. I have two and I ordered the second one after this video and the game that same weekend.
First unit was a complete kit and the second just the unit, obviously :)
where u got it from ? directly from gate?
I got them from Patrolbase in the UK.
your normal mosfet ist still great :) I like this more :)
I wouldn't say there is a massive difference. Regular mosfet is way more reliable and you can achieve great trigger reaction on 11.1v + good wires + cheapest mosfet.
IMO, optical triggers are only needed on v3 gearboxes (AK, MP5K, G36), because semi-auto lock issue which is very hard to fix mechanically.
I know and feel the difference. It seems to me it's quite evident.
I don't think regular MOSFETs are more reliable, and certainly not WAY more reliable. I've burned more regular MOSFETs than PROGRAMMABLE (keyword) ETUs, which I'm yet to see go puff. Gate, Perun and even T238 cheap units that can be bought for 28€ all work fine. At that price point, using old style MOSFETs makes no sense at all. Higher end brands like this Titan are totally a user's option, but choosing the trigger break point, the RoF, the burst size or the precocking is something a regular MOSFET will never do.
Can you get a good trigger response on 11.1v, 18:1, good wires, perfect setup and a cheap MOSFET? Sure. I did them a lot TEN YEARS AGO :) Time to move on.
@ 3 of my friends moved on and installed optical drop-in mosfets with tons of nice features. All of them had troubles with ETUs. Sometimes replica just doesn't shoot and they try different batteries to start it up. One of their Perun mosfets was sent to manufacturer because it just stopped working, programming issue which cannot be reset by user.
My replicas with PicoSSR mosfet never let me down and I don't feel that I'm at disadvantage when playing vs. my friends.
@ yes, there is a difference, but most popular ETUs (Perun) are extremely overpriced, and less known ETUs (T238) are suspicious and there is not much info about their reliability.
I want to risk and buy optical T238 for my MP5K because as you might know trigger in v3 GB is horrible and it locks up on semi. But I'm doing that because it's very hard to fix v3 GB mechanically.
Trigger in v2 GB is short, crisp and doesn't lock up on semi, so I'm totally happy with powerful battery and simple mosfet.
@@kord2003 You can lock V2s as badly as V3s. It just takes a lazy motor and a big spring.
Give the T238s a go. I have installed four optical V3s and they work really nicely, and the Facebook T238 group is very helpful.
But as in everything in this life, technical work has to be done properly. Your friends' ETUs should work as mines do.
Let me know if you try the T238 or see you around on FB!
@ Thanks, I'll try it
very nice i have one as well only thing is you should have installed a flat trigger
I don't specially like them :)
Dude nice quick video. But how do you get the trigger to have such a short pull as I’ve got a TITAN and it’s a Lllloooonnnngggg travel. How did you do it? Cheers mate.
In the Gate Control Station software, under the SENSORS tab, check what sensor position is acting as trigger. There are five of them 1 being the shortest pull and 5 being the longest. In my case position 1 is already covered by the resting trigger, so I had to choose 2 as firing sensor.
@ Thank for your reply. What I ment was it looks as though you have a positive trigger stop point. Or is yours the same as mine with a long trigger travel but on the highest sensitivity?
Yeah, there's no physical stop. I just pull until it shoots. Controlled trigger pull can be learned, though.
I haven't thought of any system to accomplish this, but if I find something I'll make a video about it.
@@stuartlathe2310 Maxx triggers have a screw that you can adjust to set/shorten the overtravel of the trigger
Hey man, I want to achieve similar trigger pull, and be able to spam it, is there a cheaper way to do this than a titan?
13:1 gears alone will make a huge difference in trigger response, but the trigger pull will be longer by default. There are ways to stop your trigger farther back though.
To be able to spam it you just need a nice responsive torque motor and proper shimming, then any MOSFET with brake that stops after each cycle. As you can see in the first part of the video, the response is good, it just gets better with the TITAN.
Iñigo Zapata thanks
Anytime :)
So I recently got a G&G SRL and have been having some problems. The gun randomly stops firing and I then have to unplug the battery and put it back in for a couple shots. Was wondering if that would be a mosfet problem?
I would first check the motor connections. They jolt quite a bit with each shot and the cables might be going on and off.
I had one motor spade break, even.
Por tu nombre de usuario diría que hablas español. Te quería hacer una pregunta compañero, ¿Has tenido la necesidad de ponerle una 11,1 o con la 7,4 va bien? Yo tengo más o menos tengo la misma configuración, salvo que tengo el gatillo electrónico de G&G en vez del el titán. Te lo pregunto porque quiero comprar una buena batería y no se si cambiar a 11,1, y viendo las complicaciones que estoy teniendo para encontrar una que entre en una culata crane stock, prefiero asegurar si merece la pena o no. Un saludo.
Para engranajes de 13:1 con un motor de par como el SHS hi-torque, Lonex A2, G&G Ifrit 25k etc. 7.4v es más que suficiente. Ya ves que la ráfaga de tres es más que rápida. Con 11.1v tendrías que tener en cuenta que el pistón no va a volver a tiempo y habría riesgo de que se enganche entre disparos. El gatillo electrónico de G&G no permite configurar la velocidad del motor en la ráfaga...
Si vas a jugar exclusivamente en semi no tendrás problemas, pero tienes que ver si la respuesta de gatillo con 7.4v es lo que buscas o si necesitas 11.1v. En mi caso no es necesario.
Baterías LiPo para tubo tienes en gran variedad. Cualquiera de 120x15x15 ó 120x15x20 debería entrar sin problemas, e incluso más largas.
Iñigo Zapata Muchismas gracias por contestar, definitivamente me voy a quedar con una buena 7,4 porque de por si la respuesta es muy buena y prefiero que la réplica no sufra tanto con la 11,1. Un saludo
Hola ya que he visto que eres español me gustaría preguntarte algo que ajustes se consideran los mejores para un gatillo electrónico tengo un jefftron v2 no se que poner, si activar el freno activo activar o desactivar el precooking para que no se ataquen los disparos en semi si me puedes ayudar te lo agradecería ^^
@@angelviedmasanchez Hola. Me perdí este comentario, perdona.
El freno activo siempre es interesante, porque hace el ciclo más consistente con las paradas en el mismo punto.
Precocking es cuestión de gustos. Cualquier gatillo electrónico te va a salvar de atascos en semi si tienes el freno activado. El precocking no es necesario para ese problema en concreto.
I agree with everything you said here.
I like the fact that you are consistent with your comments :D
Hey! I know alot of gbb guns but I have almost no clue of aegs, so I have a few questions:
Is there any difference in terms of reaction time/trigger pull of installing it in the geabox or just to plug it between the gun and the battery?
Do I have to do other upgrades to prevent my gun from breaking it or simply making it not work properly?
Is it actually worth to buy a cheaper gun and buy this mosfet?
Thanks
Hi there!
You will always want the MOSFET (any kind) to be the electronic gate between your trigger contacts and the battery. In short, the trigger closes the circuit, the MOSFET takes the order to open and it allows the current to flow from the battery. There are some units that simply go between the gun connector and the battery connector but I wouldn't recommend any of those.
This upgrade won't break anything in your gun. You can use it with the default parts, but it benefits greatly from some changes, like in the video: faster gears and torque motor mainly.
Proper adjustment and air seal are a must whatever you do.
About the cheaper guns... I wouldn't spend this much in a "bad" shell with regular parts. Find at least something with a good price/quality.
Iñigo Zapata Thank you so much for your comment! I always wanted to have an honest opinion from an experienced player like you because most shops just want your money
If you are not doing it yourself, find someone that explains to you everything they want to do and why. You should be able to find a place that is worthy of your trust :)
Iñigo Zapata Hey it‘s me again xD. What brand do you recommend if I only want to build in the mosfet without upgrading any other parts? I know that g&p for example has some high speed gears and torque up motors. Do you have any recommendations? Thanks!
@@Tkcb2799 Wow, I missed this one, so you probably already had 2-3 guns in between comments :D
G&Ps are nice, but the default motors are speed motors, not torque, and default gears in most guns are 18:1. You'll want 16:1 or 13:1 gears and some nice torquey motor.
Hola buen día acabó de comprar una kwa vm4a1 de fábrica quiero instalar el titán gate es necesario hacer alguna otra modificación antes de instalar este producto?
Por lo que veo en las fotos de la caja de engranajes, me da la impresión de que no es posible . Ese modelo de KWA tiene una caja no estándar, con paredes que rodean los engranajes y no habría sitio para el módulo de Gate.
@ te agradezco la información saludos
I’m new to Airsoft and the gun I purchased I was told comes with a advanced gate titan mosfet but I don’t know how to locate it, can you please tell me where it is located and is it programmable ?
Hi. Your Titan unit is inside the gearbox, so it's not easily visible.
You can program it with a USB dongle that Gate sells, or the older programming card, through the Deans connector.
@ oh okay thank you so much, also can this mosfet easily handle a 11.1v Lipo?
@@cndubz3413 Yes, it will.
The Titan version sounds as if Gears are having to much contact....
I have since rebuilt it in a Gate gearbox, but it sounded fine before. Recordings with phones are not the best anyway.
so is it faster or just short trigger response?
I doubt the gears themselves are turning any faster, since it's the same setup, but the trigger response and trigger travel make a difference for sure. The whole thing is probably providing current quicker than with the regular MOSFET too.
I have Titan in my trusty G&P with standard 18:1 gears and SHS high torque motor - and I just can't set it right. The pre-cocking is lacking on any setting, also motor and battery get extremely hot after 20-30 rapid shots. The shimming's fine, spring is 120, wires are solid. HOW DID I FAIL?
If you are confident in your shimming, check that the pistol grip is not moving the bearings of the bevel when inserted or changing the angle of the motor because it rubs against the body.
For the first cause, check that the inside of the grip is not touching the bearings of the bevel gear, and carve a relief if that's the case. They shouldn't touch at all.
For the second, check this: ruclips.net/video/m0yU-_prZyY/видео.html
Let me know if any of those things were the problem, thanks!
Thank you.
I've done a complete revamp on the gearbox. The stock gears had a bit of slack (4 yr use), and the cylinder was filled with gunk. SHS motor died (it ate through both brushes and stator and lost 1 coil) and I had to set back to stock high-speed. Ordered guarder high torque as these are famous for robustness.
-changed o-rings and gears (now SHS 18:1)
-clean up and grease
-shimming
The results are flawless. There is one reservation though - pre-cocking reduces accuracy. Any idea why?
Pre-cocking pre-loads the spring and piston and also moves the tappet plate, which carries the nozzle. If your nozzle is not keeping pressure correctly you might be losing compression at that point.
Chrono the gun with and without pre-cocking and see if there are FPS drops.
With the same amount of air the BBs should fly the same, so the only reason I can think of is changes in air volume due to a leak, in this case in the nozzle.
Oh I know why now. SHS bevel has 6 anti-reverse notches instead of 2 of G&P. This results in piston and nozzle stop in somewhat random positions (cocked piston position varying by ~10 mm). Will see how I fix it.
However, a six positions ARL is better than a two positions one. Once the cycle is complete the TITAN should stop the process in the same point everytime.
There has to be a problem with the pre-cocking then. I know it doesn't work well with 19-teeth pistons in the SR25, for example.
if Im getting overspin, would you recommend getting the titan or short stroking?
Any MOSFET with brake should do the trick. This unit is wonderful though, but to correct that specific problem you don't need to spend that much.
Just replying so anyone who sees this knows the correct info:
while active breaking mosfets work, they cause your motor to work harder and makes them heat up pretty quick.
A better way to help stop over spin is getting a stiffer spring(stronger) and then if your FPS is too high for your field limit or just higher than where you want it to be, this is where short stroking comes into play.
Short stroking only lowers fps, it does NOT stop over spin. It’ll give better trigger response (slightly) because less teeth have to be cycled when it pulls the piston. You remove teeth on the PICKUP side, NEVER the release side of the sector gear.
Each tooth removal (don’t quote me, do your own research I may be a bit off) takes off about 20 fps.
Say you have 10 teeth on the sector gear for the sake of an example. Removing 2 on the PICKUP side(side that first engages with piston teeth) should take off roughly 40 fps.
Stiffer springs also help with pre engagement, it returns the piston quicker. Getting a polycarb piston like the SHS full metal rack ones helps too, lightened of course. Further Swiss cheesing May help.
@@reapermedia1937 Your explanation of short stroking is spot on, but it doesn't really solve the problem of overspin by itself, because just using a stiffer spring doesn't solve the problem in some cases. Sub 300fps guns (which are used here for CQB) or even ~350 guns might still overspin on a harder spring, because it won't really be that hard. Also, 1-2 teeth removal is easy. Three and up is tricky and requires more knowledge and a finer setup or you risk pre-engagement, which again, will happen in 300-350fps guns easily.
It's still fine for 400fps and up guns, but I personally wouldn't bother, because...
The short and easier solution is still using an AB MOSFET. Will your motor live a shorter life? Sure. How much? Well, I spam semi on mines for thousands of rounds and I'm yet to change one. That's simply YEARS of games for the price of a motor. Believe me, there are many things that can and will die before your motor gives up, and then there's the brushless ones, that don't give a F ;)
You could also use a lower power lipo . Exp if you use an 11.1 go to a 7.5 and it will olso stop the overcycling .
Wait so does a mosfett make your gun shoot faster pls explain
A MOSFET is an electronic gate or switch. In some cases it can improve the way current flows from the battery to the motor, making the whole process more optimized and therefore working faster.
In this case the mechanical parts are the same, but the gun feels more lively, so the electronics make a difference in speed and response.
If the mosfet has the pre-cocking feature it can significantly improve the trigger response.
Oh you just have the two settings? that could be my problem.
Have you ever had issue with using it in the cold?
Never. We've been actually playing every weekend this winter and it's always worked fine.
The main problem with cold is battery performance, not electronics, usually.
@ Outdoor play? What is the temperature?
@@gunnman5 Always outdoor. Above freezing in the early morning these last months.
@ ok I think my problem is under zero, or else warm but wet outside moist air. let me know if you try it in those conditions, under zero and or raining. :)
@@gunnman5 I've played with rain many, many times, no problem.
Cold is usually hard on batteries, but not electronics.
Maybe you have a condensation problem? I see how that could upset the optical sensors.
What motor were you using?
G&G Ifrit 25k.
titan or spectre that’s the question 😅
I'll add a third option: Perun v2 optical ;)
>Jefftron Leviathan
>regular mosfet
???? they’re both optical
As far as I know, the only optical Leviathan is for V3, but it should be comparable, yes.
Mind you, the advantage of an optical switch is the absence of wear in contacts/switches and the software adjustment of the trigger pull. Other than that, good trigger response can be had with other electronic triggers as well.
@ I know, i was just saying how it’s weird to call it a regular mosfet when it’s pretty much the same price as the titan. A better comparison would be like a regular 3034 MOSFET without cycle detection.
@@APFSDS-DU You might be confused here. The MOSFET in that gun was not a Leviathan. It was a cheap $25 MOSFET with brake I bought and installed years ago.
@ ahhhh okay, definitely my bad lol
is it shimmed
Of course. I shimmed it as perfectly as possible, and greased internally with proper greases/oils in the right amounts.
Sounds absolutely fine, not every gun can sound death silent. Even the motor grip can already fuck a lot with the sound, that is even where most sound comes from, pinion and bevel.
Just get a PolarStar and be done with it.
I do have one. VFC SCAR H conversion. Not the same thing by a long mile.
I have had a polar star and this is much better or just get a systema that’s the best way
Genuwine6799G expensive when I can get the same performance from a titan and a decent gearbox. My gun is 500 and i feel it performs better than a lot of polar stars