Depends on the vehicle, I guess. But ... don't use wheel-cleaners with iron removing capabilities on wheels that haven't been cleaned in a long time. Instead just spray hydrochloric acid onto the dirty wheels, would in most cases do (most of) the trick. Waste of time using a wheel-cleaner on wheels that are very dirty. I mean, I would do like this for dirty wheels (that haven't been cleaned for a while): - rinse wheel so dirt is a minimum - spray hydrochloric acid (1:4 or harder diluted) onto wheels - let it dwell for max 2min. - agitate (using an acid-safe brush/tools)
9:30 - THANK YOU for bringing that up! I'm starting to get annoyed by all those instagram detailers using a make up brush for cleaning their interior. The results you're getting from doing that are equal to wiping down the surface with a microfiber towel with some cleaner in it. I only use the make up brush to dust off the interior, clean speedometers, and SOMETIMES leather, nothing else. If I want to really deep clean interior surfaces, i'm using a scrub pad and maybe a lightly stiffer brush to get inside the nooks and crannys. Works way more efficiently than that make up brush non-sense.
Make up brushes are brilliant for dusting around clocks and into air vents and smaller nooks and crannies as you can get them in all sizes .... Not much use for heavy duty cleaning
Right! brushes definitely have their use in the interior! I do the same to get off dust and crumbs at crevices. I will use a scrub pad with a heavily diluted APC on sunscreen stains or grease but very rarely. A lot of people rely on foam to give them a visual reinforcement of cleaning so I understand why they love foam. Thanks for watching!!
Well done! Most of the stuff on the market is sold solely due to marketing BS. Many of these products, specifically bug remover, are unnecessary. I personally use the DIY Detail All Clean, in a 15-1 ratio, that you showed. In fact, if you mix it in a 30-1 ratio you can use it on the interior as well. I would, however, caution from using it in that method if you are cleaning a well maintained vehicle that is not particularly dirty. For relatively clean interiors I would recommend a rinseless wash. I purchased products that claimed that they have some fantastic German technology and science only to find out that they are nothing but overly priced garbage. This is exactly why I compare many of the RUclips videos done by detailers to compare their input so that I can make a more informed decision and try not to waste my time and money.
Thanks I appreciate it! There's definitely a lot of marketing talk and claims out there, so it certainly helps when independent people can share their experience and opinions for others to consider. I really like the idea of having products that are multi-purpose and actually work. When I find bugs that are so stuck on, I use spray on some Dark Fury before foaming on All Clean. I only do that occasionally as All Clean can take care of bug guts most of time when given some dwell time. Thanks for watching!!
I saw a DIY detail video and they were pre spraying the car with Incredible Suds from an IK former. Car was pretty jacked up, but they made the mix 32:1. I’ve done it though have taken to rinseless, but my method was hit it with the IK 32:1, dwell and rinse. Car was as close to touchless washed as I’ve ever seen, I then did a traditional foam and contact wash. It was killer. I didn’t even need any All Clean. At the ratio in the IK, it did the trick and really well. Foam hung in there forever. I live in a pretty humid place so I was able to let it dwell without it drying quite a but. But, if I’m traditionally washing something these days, that’s what I do, and it doe wonders on bugs and everything else.
Been a commerical and inustrial office cleaner for years and have used 11:00 as a method of wiping down most commonly used surfaces such as tables, desks, doors, etc. I just dampen the microfiber with a cleaning solution and start wiping down. Cleaning isn't always about elbow grease and I appreciate people finding simple and effective ways to get it done.
@willsridecare We use a neutral quat disinfectant for vital areas that need to be disinfected, a general apc for surfaces with grease or oil, and a ph neutral multisurface cleaner for the rest. I'll be looking in to car detailing as a side gig, so thanks again for the advice in the video!
Thank you! Good video! I allso do foam, rinse, foam and then Contact Wash with the Multi-Towel method with 5-6 soft microfibre towels ( flip the towel once, so you have 4 clean sides and then wash every panel with 1 clean side of the towel) in a washbucket with Meguiar’s Wash& Wax Shampoo, then dry with 2 softmicrofiber drying towels and Blower! Perfect!👍😉
That's a great tip, it also saves you some trips to the bucket and makes sure the washing media is clean at all times! Thanks for watching and sharing!
Love the video. I think what detailers need to do is test the theory before trying to take cheap shots at you. I do believe it is necessary to use foam on the interior. Soap has to be activated, and the surface needs to be agitation for a deep clean to do so. Now if your using a cirrus all purpose cleaner maybe you can avoid agitation by letting the product dwell. Buy you also risk damaging some surfaces. . The use of the detail brush is also to get in the cracks and crevices. After that you blow out the lose particals and foam. But you can also use a q-tip to clean out the crevices. I
Thanks!! Absolutely, there are definitely instances for brushes or foam in the interior, just not at the frequency that those satisfying detailing videos show. Thanks for watching!!
Great video! Totally agree with your point on interior detailing with a brush and tons of foam. Some will like/love it, but nothing (in my opinion) cleans as well as a dampened towel with rinseless wash. Once I tried that, I never went back and actually saw myself do more interior cleaning simply because it took so little time. Again, great video!
This is one the most realistic video on car detailing I've ever watched. In particular, the part on the interior brush cleaning. I've always asked myself: why do they use this method, that brings foam all over the place? Thank you, that was really good!
dampened or MOIST 👍🏽🐿️💨 great vid!!! foam rinse foam is a very safe way for sure but i hate it!!! i’ll foam rinse wash for super dirty cars and rinse foam wash for lightly dirty cars. and i love washing the wheels fist then covering them so i don’t have to mess with them again till it’s time to dress them 😜
Oh yes I see you with the wheel covers Franko😂 foam rinse foam definitely adds a bit more steps so sometimes just foam and wash if the car is not too dirty, thanks to the ceramic coating! Thanks Franko!
Pre-rinse method is fine when you don't have access to foam. One bucket wash is perfectly fine. The make up brushes are excellent for dusting, combined with vacuum. They are too soft to clean surfaces, and definitely agree with the foam ending up in crevices.
Lmao #5 calling out the “content” creators. I laughed out loud at that. Also as others have said pre wash can help to cool a panel that is, or has been, in the sun but the point about dry foaming a car for better cling is spot on. Last, I swear by P&S Bug Off, I’ll prob always use it over an APC it’s so good. Good video thanks for posting.
Thanks man! Hey I enjoy the entertaining “content” as well but just making sure people aren’t thinking that’s what all detailing is. Rinsing for cooling is a great point. If bug off works for you then that’s great! I like the idea of consolidating the process and products! Thanks for watching and sharing!
I agree with these techniques being useless….especially #5 - I don’t brush/foam the interior door panels…I follow Yvan’s advice of introducing the least amount of moisture into the interior spaces. This is coming from a weekend warrior not a professional detailer, though I do appreciate efficient processes. Great video Will.
Right! The less moisture you introduce the less you have to clean up. And the majority of cars just don't call for that kind of dramatic cleaning imo. I think a lot of people just rely on foam to give them a visual reinforcement of cleaning. Thanks for watching!!
With pre rinse, I would say for mobile detail it has a place, For me I just hold the pressure washer very far away. Dropping water droplets on the paint to cool the paint down
I used to spray/hose the car down with a pressure washer before applying foam. Now I foam it straight without pre-rinsing. In fact, I foam it twice (foam, then rinse, then foam again) but this time, I scrub the vehicle with a microfiber mop while foamy, then the final rinse.
Yes foam rinse foam!! The dirt level difference between with and without pre-washing (foam rinse) is dramatic. I've gotten lazy and skipped pre-washing sometimes and the wash sponge/mitt is always so much dirtier. Thanks for watching!!
Pre-rinsing is still good for vehicles that have been through mud to help get the stuck-on dirt broken up, but just focus on that ; two bucket method is still great for a non-detailer at home without a foam sprayer or pressure washer or for using certain products. If you do use that method, however., make sure you have grit gates at the bottom of the buckets; a lot of the decontamination and clay bar/rag processes won't work in direct sunlight especially in places like AZ and the Southeast where it gets extremely warm, and definitely not on a black vehicle; correct, STOP overspraying the interior with products and then further brushing that junk all over the place. Use your brushes and products sparingly only when needed to take on stains like soda, coffee, body oils, and sunscreen. Just remember though, everything you mentioned as "useless" might work for some detailers in some situations. Every vehicle is different and every detailers environment is different. What works for you may not work for me so if I sirens an extra few minutes doing it maybe that's what the customer wants.
Those are fair points! that's why I stress the point that if you already enjoy your process then don't listen to me. However, if you want to increase efficiency, then these might be for you. I forget to mention the grit guard, thanks for reminding, that certainly makes a difference. And you're right, definitely don't let iron remover dry on the panel or avoid direct sunlight. Thanks for watching and the feedback!
Another great video, thanks. I agree with all your point but I am getting into the two bucket method for my rinseless 😂 “. Water is not a problem for me and it just seems safer but it’s probably a waste of time…
Thanks I appreciate it! If it makes you feel safer and you got the time then nothing wrong with it! maybe it will eventually get u comfortable enough to cut out the rinse bucket, if not, that's fine too! Thanks for watching!
I’m glad RUclips rolled over to your video. Hey….a practical guy and someone who sounds like he can be trusted with his honest opinion!! I happily subscribed. Good luck with your channel. 😊
I hit the subscribe- and like-button. Thank you! I use the decon towel with iron remover as well. Got inspiration from DIY Detail. Because, you're right, it's a waste of good product to overspray your vehicle with half or a whole bottle of iron remover. Is it possible to use an IK spray bottle when adding iron remover to the surface, I just wondered 🤔 The last one really helped me out, you're right again. It's really not necessary to foam up the whole interior ... with a brush. Takes too much precious time. Good one! Thanks for some helpful tips! Best regards from Denmark, Europe.
Thanks!! yeah I honestly think iron remover doesn't need to be used as often as people think. The clay towel can take off most of the contamination with some lubrication without iron remover. Thanks for watching and supporting!!
If you used a boars grleae.brush instead of a extra soft brush makes a Hugh difference. The brush is great, especially when there are surfaces where there is sticky foods grease etc. Our auto fiber scrub Nidia scrub pad. Which scrubs a large surface quicker. Microfiber, I have noticed that I can't always get some of the tougher areas. Otherwise, yes, it is just for show .
Yeah I would use a scrub pad with an APC if it's food grease. I would maybe use a brush for sticky cup holder but still mostly prefer microfibers and shape it with my fingers. But whatever works for you is all it matters! Thanks for watching!
Nothing wrong with that but that's definitely not the "two bucket method," since it specifically refers to using one for rinsing the media and one for soap. Thanks for watching!!
i also use two buckets for that purpose too, i mean, its a waste of money buying bucket accessories while you can basically get a plastic bucket for almost free
I can't say since I've haven't used it, but in my opinion, I don't think the interior needs anything more than a good wipe down and some clean & protect type product to maintain. At most, an interior specific ceramic coating could help if you really care about it but definitely needed at all. P&S finisher looks to be designed for their carpet cleaning system. Thanks for watching!
hahahaha love #5. microfiber with onr works great for those lightly soiled interiors. dirtier areas like maybe the doorsill and such, i use a scrub ninja. as relaxing and satisfying it is, it will take much longer to agitate everything with those small detail brushes
Would you recommend the black Reset clay mitt over the blue Ultra one? Assuming you're using The Rag Company mitts. How do you know when an iron remover is safe to use with a clay towel? I use superior products Iron X and don't know if its safe or not.
I haven't use them before but the Reset clay mitt and the blue Ultra one seem to be basically the same thing aside from Reset is from P&S and Ultra is from TRC, but they certainly serve the same purpose. the only way to know if it's safe is by trying. If the clay material breaks down after use with the iron remover, then it's not compatible. The iron remover also needs to have enough surfactant to provide lubrication for the clay. Thanks for watching!
@@willsridecare Thanks for posting and replying. I have some old clay I can test before I go and ruin a whole $35 clay towel lol... someone said it turns it into mashed potatoes if it's not compatible. But then someone else mentioned that some clay is different composition than others, more synthetic. I'm sure that factors in too... sigh what a headache lol.
@@joeyofblades I’m not exactly sure what it will look like but at least on synthetic clay, you will see some holes on the clay and break apart! Good idea on testing on cheap clay!
@@joeyofbladesI believe it is solvent in some iron removers that damages clay towels. Yvan of DIY detail talks about it. A lot of his method is the same as on here, and it's sound advice. If your iron remover foams upon agitation, then it has surfactants and is unlikely to be solvent based. Bilt hamber's is good. I am currently using prokleen dragon's blood, so cheap per gallon. Most brands are similar and it could be argued that many 'wheel cleaners' are simply iron removers with identical ingredients. Just as was mentioned about 'bug cleaners', are some just ready diluted APC? I would be interested to know if anyone has proper knowledge of the various formulations...
I use foam and a brush for the interior only to clean leather seats that are very dirty and you have to get in to all the little cracks in the leather.
I'm sure the brush and foam is more enjoyable. I still go for a rinseless dampened towel or an interior cleaner with a scrub pad for leather seats. Thanks for watching and sharing!
people use the brush on the interior to clean the crevasse as you couldn't reach into those tight areas with the towel only the brush can... with the towel those small crevasse doesn't get cleaned and still have dust behind.. as a detailer we must get every detail of the car even the hard to get areas.
That a good point , but from my experience, using my fingertip behind a microfiber can get into the majority of crevices. The only time I use a brush is to dust off little dirt and crumb in tight spaces, then come back with a rinseless dampened towel. Thanks for watching!
@@willsridecare at 10:28 you said using your finger you couldn't get the bubbles out the crevasses so your just left it stuck in there.. well that's where the brush comes in handy. Also while doing the interior it might be good to also use a dedicated drying towel for the interior just so you don't leave any streaks behind.
100% foam is your ENEMY inside the vehicle. I don't want foam on any surfaces, including fabrics. Huge pain. Rinseless should be the backbone of a detailer's business, IMO.
It's definitely not as fun but will save so much time. A lot of people rely on foam to give them a visual reinforcement of cleaning so I understand why they love foam. But if you want to save time, rinseless is the way to go! Thanks for watching!
People needs to understand that water is a lubricant meaning libricity is key in minimizing scratches specially when washing a vehicle imho pre rinsing is a good way to loosen up dirt and prep for the soap as evidence by how the pre rinsed one was pulling down the soap compared to the one without pre rinsing, imagine if the vehicle was covered in dust and dirt not like the one on the video which has very light dirt and dust. what is 1 minute of time saved if u pre rinse a vehicle? Now imagine if u dont pre rinse ur hands before washing them to lubricate ur hands how much time you will save.
Pre-treating solution is already mixed in water. Introducing more water only further dilutes the cleaning agents. Hand soap works better with wet hands bc it's not diluted already.
@@willsridecare I like your enthusiasm on this topic and as per water diluting the incoming foaming soap? by the time the foam soap come in contact to the paint surface water have already drip down the paint, if any changes on the dilution ratio will be very minmal to no impact on the dilution. And pls tell me ur not a proponent of water less or rinseless wash because it creates rust for the most part with which is another topic in itself. If u really are interested on this topic and if i may recommend is to research about the correlation of the PH level in soap it will also cover some with regards to dilution but learning and understanding the PH level will definitely open your eyes on detailing and also u can use in ur everyday life.
Disagree with your 2 bucket method going to one bucket unless using a rinseless wash. Prefoaming does not remove enough of the contamination to make it safe. There's still plenty of paticles on the panels that can scratch when doing your contact wash when using one bucket. If you blast off your wash media with the hose before going back into the bucket then that will help.
This is exactly the misconception. If you are using the proper pre-rinse foam you are lifting and then rinsing off the major grit and grime. Just like a rinseless, after that step what is left is only traffic film, not grit. This is why the two bucket method has been pointless for some time. Yes, you are pulling film, but not grit, thus no scratches. Run this on a black car and you will confirm this for yourself.
@@prhawkeyethere was no mention of what product to use. A lot of people will go into a shop and buy the cheapest car shampoo they can find. I don't care how many times you foam rinse foam. I'm not relying on that to make it safe to wash my car with one bucket(unless it's a decent rinseless and I've pre soaked already).
Thanks for watching! There’s not one right way to detail, so if you prefer having 2 buckets and feel much safer with them, then nothing wrong with that!
@@prhawkeyeFoam does not lift anything. 90% of these "pre-rinsing foams" are just repackaged soaps from touchless car washes. They don't do jack squat for real grime.
@@rooboy99 A single bucket with multiple MF towels or any wash media is the way to go. This way, you're not dunking/diluting the remaining dirt from your towel/mitt to your soap bucket. Also, you're more efficient since you don't have to spend your time rinsing the towel/mitt. Did you not hear what he said? Prefoaming lifts all the dirt and encapsulating them so that when you rinse it with a pressure washer, the dirt will not scratch your paint. Of course, if you have an inch thick of mud, you can do your prerinse. But most of us clean our cars once or twice a week so all the things mentioned in this video is perfect! If I only have the money to spend on rinseless wash method(DIY Detail products), I'll definitely do this method! Or I can always do both methods. Lol
if you have sand on the car and you hit it first with power washer, you might as well use sand paper. when the car has sand or construction dirt, i foam it then rinse lightly prior to the contact wash.
@@pwrshots that’s definitely the safest way to remove grit! Water alone might remove them but the soap will for sure do a better job! Thanks for watching!
If the panel is a bit warm to the touch then rinsing it first is actually better, thats why critical thinking is needed in whatever kind of job you are doing..and aesthetic look(non-runny snow foam) is only good for tiktok/instagram.
He lives in a condo and is able to clean cars to a really high standard without a pressure washer. Everyone has a different setup - it’s how you use it that counts.
And what about it?? You don’t need one to keep your car clean. There’s many different ways to detail efficiently, especially when you live in an apartment and don’t have a lot of space. That’s literally what his channel is all about
You talk far too much sense lol, other so-called detailers must hate you and I imagine a few product makers won't be too happy with you either, but thanks from me anyway.
You've been watching way too much DIY Detail man. Yvan preaches some seriously questionable detailing techniques which you've basically regurgitated word for word. I thought my fellow Asian brethren would be smarter than this and able to see through Yvans poor teachings.
Which of these techniques are questionable exactly? These are known well beyond DIY Detail. Also there’s different ways to detail, if you don’t like these then don’t do them, like he said these are just some techniques to be more efficient in your process that work just as well as (or even better) than some other legacy methods.
@ 1. Foaming a car removing all of the grit and leaving only traffic film. Obviously not true 2. People have misinterpreted his one spray iron remover as clay lube technique to incorporate any and all iron removers, which is not the case. 3. Yvan has, on video, used the same bucket to clay paint after cleaning the wheels
@@AnthonySarino-f7nyeah I agree with you on #3. But 1 and 2 are legit. Foam rinse foam does work and knocks off up to 90% of gunk to make for a much safer wash. Furthermore as for #2 leaving rinseless on to aid for lubricity does work. I used this method all the time dip clay towel in rinseless and 1 spray on the panel then 1 spray on the towel has saved me so much iron remover. It gets expensive fast especially on a professional business level. I don’t even use diy detail iron remover. I use iron buster by p&s. My point is his methods and techniques work outside of his own product system. They have made me a much more efficient effective detailer.
@@AnthonySarino-f7n on that video, that's cause he said the car/wheels wasn't that dirty and he was going to polish the car afterwards anyway, so it wouldn't matter if some scratches happened.
@iangeorge6409 It will not unless you do not know how to use a pressure washer. You start your spray with the nozzle pointed away and atleast 2 feet away and you blast the water from a side angle so the dirt is being blown off. Water is also an extremely effective lubricant. I can garuntee you whatever snake oil you are using is more than 95% water. Your foam is nothing more than a money and time waster.
@@willsridecareIf its foamed up like you have down in your video, it is a waste of time. Detergents shoud not be foamed, foaming does nothing but make detergents less effective.
I'm a professional detailer with my own detailing business and I clicked on your video for fun and all it was you making a wannabe DIY Detail "tips to be faster" video. 1) yes, don't prerinse your car first when using a snow foam as prewash. The foam is meant to create lubricity and encapsulate loose dirt so it won't scratch your paint when the water hits it. 2) Two bucket methods is just a safety measure. One bucket works fine and you can just rinse off your wash mitt with the hose between panels before dunking it in your bucket or use more than one rag/wash mitt. 3) APC can eat through clear coat, etch glass, and will weaken any paint protection... Bug/tar remover won't, that's why it exists. Also bug and tar remover have chemicals that break down gummy adhesives and tree sap that an APC does not. 4) The brush on the interior is meant to foam up the interior cleaner on the panel, not to to spread it around. If you want to be faster then use a speed ball brush instead of the little brushes. Yes, you can use a damp cloth with rinse less wash but a speedball brush sprayed with cleaner is great to foam up cleaner on a panel when using it in conjunction with a steam cleaner. That's really what it's meant for and their is no foam left behind in crevices when you use it that way. 5) Yes, using iron decon is better when you use it on panel with a clay towel/sponge but you can only that once the panel is already clean otherwise you will mar the panel. The spray on method uses more product but allows you to do the iron decon at the prewash stage without scratching the car and it ensures all the iron remover is washed away during the handwash stage.
If it hasn't been long then All Clean should take it off. But if it's been sitting then APCs won't work well on it. You will need a tar remover or adhesive remover, and DIY Detail has a tree sap remover, which is the same thing as a tar remover. Thanks for watching!
What are some useless detailing techniques that I didn't mention?
Depends on the vehicle, I guess.
But ... don't use wheel-cleaners with iron removing capabilities on wheels that haven't been cleaned in a long time.
Instead just spray hydrochloric acid onto the dirty wheels, would in most cases do (most of) the trick. Waste of time using a wheel-cleaner on wheels that are very dirty.
I mean, I would do like this for dirty wheels (that haven't been cleaned for a while):
- rinse wheel so dirt is a minimum
- spray hydrochloric acid (1:4 or harder diluted) onto wheels
- let it dwell for max 2min.
- agitate (using an acid-safe brush/tools)
Can APC removes the road tar as well?
9:30 - THANK YOU for bringing that up! I'm starting to get annoyed by all those instagram detailers using a make up brush for cleaning their interior. The results you're getting from doing that are equal to wiping down the surface with a microfiber towel with some cleaner in it.
I only use the make up brush to dust off the interior, clean speedometers, and SOMETIMES leather, nothing else. If I want to really deep clean interior surfaces, i'm using a scrub pad and maybe a lightly stiffer brush to get inside the nooks and crannys. Works way more efficiently than that make up brush non-sense.
Make up brushes are brilliant for dusting around clocks and into air vents and smaller nooks and crannies as you can get them in all sizes .... Not much use for heavy duty cleaning
Right! brushes definitely have their use in the interior! I do the same to get off dust and crumbs at crevices. I will use a scrub pad with a heavily diluted APC on sunscreen stains or grease but very rarely. A lot of people rely on foam to give them a visual reinforcement of cleaning so I understand why they love foam. Thanks for watching!!
Well done! Most of the stuff on the market is sold solely due to marketing BS. Many of these products, specifically bug remover, are unnecessary. I personally use the DIY Detail All Clean, in a 15-1 ratio, that you showed. In fact, if you mix it in a 30-1 ratio you can use it on the interior as well. I would, however, caution from using it in that method if you are cleaning a well maintained vehicle that is not particularly dirty. For relatively clean interiors I would recommend a rinseless wash. I purchased products that claimed that they have some fantastic German technology and science only to find out that they are nothing but overly priced garbage. This is exactly why I compare many of the RUclips videos done by detailers to compare their input so that I can make a more informed decision and try not to waste my time and money.
Thanks I appreciate it! There's definitely a lot of marketing talk and claims out there, so it certainly helps when independent people can share their experience and opinions for others to consider. I really like the idea of having products that are multi-purpose and actually work. When I find bugs that are so stuck on, I use spray on some Dark Fury before foaming on All Clean. I only do that occasionally as All Clean can take care of bug guts most of time when given some dwell time. Thanks for watching!!
I saw a DIY detail video and they were pre spraying the car with Incredible Suds from an IK former. Car was pretty jacked up, but they made the mix 32:1. I’ve done it though have taken to rinseless, but my method was hit it with the IK 32:1, dwell and rinse. Car was as close to touchless washed as I’ve ever seen, I then did a traditional foam and contact wash. It was killer. I didn’t even need any All Clean. At the ratio in the IK, it did the trick and really well. Foam hung in there forever. I live in a pretty humid place so I was able to let it dwell without it drying quite a but. But, if I’m traditionally washing something these days, that’s what I do, and it doe wonders on bugs and everything else.
Been a commerical and inustrial office cleaner for years and have used 11:00 as a method of wiping down most commonly used surfaces such as tables, desks, doors, etc. I just dampen the microfiber with a cleaning solution and start wiping down. Cleaning isn't always about elbow grease and I appreciate people finding simple and effective ways to get it done.
That’s great insight! I’m curious what kind of product do you use for office cleaning? Appreciate you watching and sharing!
@willsridecare We use a neutral quat disinfectant for vital areas that need to be disinfected, a general apc for surfaces with grease or oil, and a ph neutral multisurface cleaner for the rest. I'll be looking in to car detailing as a side gig, so thanks again for the advice in the video!
Thank you! Good video! I allso do foam, rinse, foam and then Contact Wash with the Multi-Towel method with 5-6 soft microfibre towels ( flip the towel once, so you have 4 clean sides and then wash every panel with 1 clean side of the towel) in a washbucket with Meguiar’s Wash& Wax Shampoo, then dry with 2 softmicrofiber drying towels and Blower! Perfect!👍😉
That's a great tip, it also saves you some trips to the bucket and makes sure the washing media is clean at all times! Thanks for watching and sharing!
Love the video. I think what detailers need to do is test the theory before trying to take cheap shots at you. I do believe it is necessary to use foam on the interior. Soap has to be activated, and the surface needs to be agitation for a deep clean to do so. Now if your using a cirrus all purpose cleaner maybe you can avoid agitation by letting the product dwell. Buy you also risk damaging some surfaces. . The use of the detail brush is also to get in the cracks and crevices. After that you blow out the lose particals and foam. But you can also use a q-tip to clean out the crevices. I
Thanks!! Absolutely, there are definitely instances for brushes or foam in the interior, just not at the frequency that those satisfying detailing videos show. Thanks for watching!!
Great video! Totally agree with your point on interior detailing with a brush and tons of foam. Some will like/love it, but nothing (in my opinion) cleans as well as a dampened towel with rinseless wash. Once I tried that, I never went back and actually saw myself do more interior cleaning simply because it took so little time.
Again, great video!
Thanks!! Yeah I'm the same, it's surprising how well it cleans! Thanks for watching!
This is one the most realistic video on car detailing I've ever watched. In particular, the part on the interior brush cleaning. I've always asked myself: why do they use this method, that brings foam all over the place? Thank you, that was really good!
Thanks I appreciate it! I ask myself the same question a lot when I see those videos... just satisfying to watch I guess.
Some are old myths and some are new to me. Great video and tells the truth! Thank you! Keep it up. Subscribed!
Thanks I appreciate it!!
dampened or MOIST 👍🏽🐿️💨 great vid!!!
foam rinse foam is a very safe way for sure but i hate it!!! i’ll foam rinse wash for super dirty cars and rinse foam wash for lightly dirty cars.
and i love washing the wheels fist then covering them so i don’t have to mess with them again till it’s time to dress them 😜
Oh yes I see you with the wheel covers Franko😂 foam rinse foam definitely adds a bit more steps so sometimes just foam and wash if the car is not too dirty, thanks to the ceramic coating! Thanks Franko!
Pre-rinse method is fine when you don't have access to foam. One bucket wash is perfectly fine. The make up brushes are excellent for dusting, combined with vacuum. They are too soft to clean surfaces, and definitely agree with the foam ending up in crevices.
@@sandykavor8434 All good points!! Thanks for watching!
Like what ur doing so far - Nice change to all the overkill vids out there - keep it up
Lmao #5 calling out the “content” creators. I laughed out loud at that. Also as others have said pre wash can help to cool a panel that is, or has been, in the sun but the point about dry foaming a car for better cling is spot on. Last, I swear by P&S Bug Off, I’ll prob always use it over an APC it’s so good. Good video thanks for posting.
Thanks man! Hey I enjoy the entertaining “content” as well but just making sure people aren’t thinking that’s what all detailing is. Rinsing for cooling is a great point. If bug off works for you then that’s great! I like the idea of consolidating the process and products! Thanks for watching and sharing!
I haven’t resonated with a video so much in a while
I agree with these techniques being useless….especially #5 - I don’t brush/foam the interior door panels…I follow Yvan’s advice of introducing the least amount of moisture into the interior spaces. This is coming from a weekend warrior not a professional detailer, though I do appreciate efficient processes. Great video Will.
Right! The less moisture you introduce the less you have to clean up. And the majority of cars just don't call for that kind of dramatic cleaning imo. I think a lot of people just rely on foam to give them a visual reinforcement of cleaning. Thanks for watching!!
With pre rinse, I would say for mobile detail it has a place,
For me I just hold the pressure washer very far away. Dropping water droplets on the paint to cool the paint down
That’s a good point, at that point it’s not even pre rinse cuz the water is just there for cooling and not clean. Thanks for watching!
Agreed, if youre working on a black car in direct sunlight, a pre-rinse is necessary imo
All good points. Im open-minded enough to try each point. Detailing is fun and the results are pleasing.
Thanks!! As long as you're getting the results while enjoying the process! Thanks for watching!
I used to spray/hose the car down with a pressure washer before applying foam. Now I foam it straight without pre-rinsing. In fact, I foam it twice (foam, then rinse, then foam again) but this time, I scrub the vehicle with a microfiber mop while foamy, then the final rinse.
Yes foam rinse foam!! The dirt level difference between with and without pre-washing (foam rinse) is dramatic. I've gotten lazy and skipped pre-washing sometimes and the wash sponge/mitt is always so much dirtier. Thanks for watching!!
@@willsridecare You're welcome, broham!!!
Pre-rinsing is still good for vehicles that have been through mud to help get the stuck-on dirt broken up, but just focus on that ; two bucket method is still great for a non-detailer at home without a foam sprayer or pressure washer or for using certain products. If you do use that method, however., make sure you have grit gates at the bottom of the buckets; a lot of the decontamination and clay bar/rag processes won't work in direct sunlight especially in places like AZ and the Southeast where it gets extremely warm, and definitely not on a black vehicle; correct, STOP overspraying the interior with products and then further brushing that junk all over the place. Use your brushes and products sparingly only when needed to take on stains like soda, coffee, body oils, and sunscreen. Just remember though, everything you mentioned as "useless" might work for some detailers in some situations. Every vehicle is different and every detailers environment is different. What works for you may not work for me so if I sirens an extra few minutes doing it maybe that's what the customer wants.
Those are fair points! that's why I stress the point that if you already enjoy your process then don't listen to me. However, if you want to increase efficiency, then these might be for you. I forget to mention the grit guard, thanks for reminding, that certainly makes a difference. And you're right, definitely don't let iron remover dry on the panel or avoid direct sunlight. Thanks for watching and the feedback!
Another great video, thanks. I agree with all your point but I am getting into the two bucket method for my rinseless 😂 “. Water is not a problem for me and it just seems safer but it’s probably a waste of time…
Thanks I appreciate it! If it makes you feel safer and you got the time then nothing wrong with it! maybe it will eventually get u comfortable enough to cut out the rinse bucket, if not, that's fine too! Thanks for watching!
I’m glad RUclips rolled over to your video. Hey….a practical guy and someone who sounds like he can be trusted with his honest opinion!! I happily subscribed. Good luck with your channel. 😊
@@TomScelfo thank you so much I really appreciate it!!
I Agree with you.
Thanks I appreciate it!!
I agree with all 5 especially the 2 bucket method.
Thanks I appreciate it!! No more carrying two buckets just for washing the body paint!
Helpful video. Have you ever tried Meguiars Ultimate Wheel Cleaner as you decon/clay lubricant? It's PH neutral. Just curious
@@WowRixter Thanks! No I have not, I wish there’s a better than to find out if they damage the clay material… thanks for watching!
I hit the subscribe- and like-button. Thank you!
I use the decon towel with iron remover as well. Got inspiration from DIY Detail. Because, you're right, it's a waste of good product to overspray your vehicle with half or a whole bottle of iron remover. Is it possible to use an IK spray bottle when adding iron remover to the surface, I just wondered 🤔
The last one really helped me out, you're right again. It's really not necessary to foam up the whole interior ... with a brush. Takes too much precious time. Good one!
Thanks for some helpful tips!
Best regards from Denmark, Europe.
Thanks!! yeah I honestly think iron remover doesn't need to be used as often as people think. The clay towel can take off most of the contamination with some lubrication without iron remover. Thanks for watching and supporting!!
You did a nice job! Thanks for sharing. 👍
Thanks I appreciate it!!
Love your videos, subscribed. Your channel will definitely grow bigger!
Thank you so much I appreciate your support!
Great video demonstrating some common mistakes. All well said.
Thanks I appreciate it!!
your intro was very thoughtful. Nice.
Thanks I appreciate it!
If you used a boars grleae.brush instead of a extra soft brush makes a Hugh difference. The brush is great, especially when there are surfaces where there is sticky foods grease etc. Our auto fiber scrub Nidia scrub pad. Which scrubs a large surface quicker. Microfiber, I have noticed that I can't always get some of the tougher areas. Otherwise, yes, it is just for show .
Yeah I would use a scrub pad with an APC if it's food grease. I would maybe use a brush for sticky cup holder but still mostly prefer microfibers and shape it with my fingers. But whatever works for you is all it matters! Thanks for watching!
I use the 2 bucket method: 1 for wash and 1 for wheels. 😅
Nothing wrong with that but that's definitely not the "two bucket method," since it specifically refers to using one for rinsing the media and one for soap. Thanks for watching!!
i also use two buckets for that purpose too, i mean, its a waste of money buying bucket accessories while you can basically get a plastic bucket for almost free
invest on a proper pressure washer if you can. It can make a massive difference
I'm sure it will, that's the plan in the future! Thanks for watching!
He’s doing a great job without it.
A good video. My technique is foam, rinse, foam, wash.
Thanks! Foam rinse foam is great! Thanks for watching!
Do you think P&S Finisher is worth it? I’m doubting it and wish I could make it myself a lot cheaper.
I can't say since I've haven't used it, but in my opinion, I don't think the interior needs anything more than a good wipe down and some clean & protect type product to maintain. At most, an interior specific ceramic coating could help if you really care about it but definitely needed at all. P&S finisher looks to be designed for their carpet cleaning system. Thanks for watching!
hahahaha love #5. microfiber with onr works great for those lightly soiled interiors. dirtier areas like maybe the doorsill and such, i use a scrub ninja. as relaxing and satisfying it is, it will take much longer to agitate everything with those small detail brushes
#5 cracks me up as well as soon as I put on the music😂 rinseless does wonders in the interior! Thanks for watching!!
Rinsing from the bottom up is one. Uses more water than rinsing top down and wastes time.
That's is a big one... some think it somehow makes the product work better. Thanks ID!
Do tbose all purpose cleaners and/or iron remover damage or strip a ceramic coating? (I have the adams graphene applied, for example)
@@stealth938 it shouldn’t. Ceramic coating is meant to resist chemicals even stronger than those. Thanks for watching!
Great video. 👍🏽
Thanks I appreciate it!
I really enjoyed your video.
Thanks I appreciate it!!
Would you recommend the black Reset clay mitt over the blue Ultra one? Assuming you're using The Rag Company mitts.
How do you know when an iron remover is safe to use with a clay towel? I use superior products Iron X and don't know if its safe or not.
I haven't use them before but the Reset clay mitt and the blue Ultra one seem to be basically the same thing aside from Reset is from P&S and Ultra is from TRC, but they certainly serve the same purpose. the only way to know if it's safe is by trying. If the clay material breaks down after use with the iron remover, then it's not compatible. The iron remover also needs to have enough surfactant to provide lubrication for the clay. Thanks for watching!
@@willsridecare Thanks for posting and replying. I have some old clay I can test before I go and ruin a whole $35 clay towel lol... someone said it turns it into mashed potatoes if it's not compatible. But then someone else mentioned that some clay is different composition than others, more synthetic. I'm sure that factors in too... sigh what a headache lol.
@@joeyofblades I’m not exactly sure what it will look like but at least on synthetic clay, you will see some holes on the clay and break apart! Good idea on testing on cheap clay!
@@joeyofbladesI believe it is solvent in some iron removers that damages clay towels. Yvan of DIY detail talks about it. A lot of his method is the same as on here, and it's sound advice. If your iron remover foams upon agitation, then it has surfactants and is unlikely to be solvent based. Bilt hamber's is good. I am currently using prokleen dragon's blood, so cheap per gallon. Most brands are similar and it could be argued that many 'wheel cleaners' are simply iron removers with identical ingredients. Just as was mentioned about 'bug cleaners', are some just ready diluted APC? I would be interested to know if anyone has proper knowledge of the various formulations...
Ready!!🎉
Thanks Taylor!
I use foam and a brush for the interior only to clean leather seats that are very dirty and you have to get in to all the little cracks in the leather.
I'm sure the brush and foam is more enjoyable. I still go for a rinseless dampened towel or an interior cleaner with a scrub pad for leather seats. Thanks for watching and sharing!
people use the brush on the interior to clean the crevasse as you couldn't reach into those tight areas with the towel only the brush can... with the towel those small crevasse doesn't get cleaned and still have dust behind.. as a detailer we must get every detail of the car even the hard to get areas.
That a good point , but from my experience, using my fingertip behind a microfiber can get into the majority of crevices. The only time I use a brush is to dust off little dirt and crumb in tight spaces, then come back with a rinseless dampened towel. Thanks for watching!
@@willsridecare at 10:28 you said using your finger you couldn't get the bubbles out the crevasses so your just left it stuck in there.. well that's where the brush comes in handy.
Also while doing the interior it might be good to also use a dedicated drying towel for the interior just so you don't leave any streaks behind.
100% foam is your ENEMY inside the vehicle. I don't want foam on any surfaces, including fabrics. Huge pain. Rinseless should be the backbone of a detailer's business, IMO.
It's definitely not as fun but will save so much time. A lot of people rely on foam to give them a visual reinforcement of cleaning so I understand why they love foam. But if you want to save time, rinseless is the way to go! Thanks for watching!
You pre-wash not Pre-rinse. Especially on bug guts.
Agreed, just rinsing with water is hardly pre-washing. Thanks for watching!
@9:05 also Bowden's Own Three Way
Nice! thanks for watching and sharing!
damns that’s a good freaking foam blaster
Ik foam pro 2 is definitely the one of the best foam sprayers! Incredible suds is also known for its super thick foam! Thanks for watching!
Any hints on how to deal with contaminated water ? I feel guilty when i see birds in my wash water puddles in my street.
I can't I know any way to avoid that besides using rinseless wash. Thanks for watching!
Very nice.
Thanks!!
People needs to understand that water is a lubricant meaning libricity is key in minimizing scratches specially when washing a vehicle imho pre rinsing is a good way to loosen up dirt and prep for the soap as evidence by how the pre rinsed one was pulling down the soap compared to the one without pre rinsing, imagine if the vehicle was covered in dust and dirt not like the one on the video which has very light dirt and dust. what is 1 minute of time saved if u pre rinse a vehicle? Now imagine if u dont pre rinse ur hands before washing them to lubricate ur hands how much time you will save.
Pre-treating solution is already mixed in water. Introducing more water only further dilutes the cleaning agents. Hand soap works better with wet hands bc it's not diluted already.
@@willsridecare I like your enthusiasm on this topic and as per water diluting the incoming foaming soap? by the time the foam soap come in contact to the paint surface water have already drip down the paint, if any changes on the dilution ratio will be very minmal to no impact on the dilution. And pls tell me ur not a proponent of water less or rinseless wash because it creates rust for the most part with which is another topic in itself. If u really are interested on this topic and if i may recommend is to research about the correlation of the PH level in soap it will also cover some with regards to dilution but learning and understanding the PH level will definitely open your eyes on detailing and also u can use in ur everyday life.
First and ready
Thanks Humberto!
Oh so you want me to tell you what i think? You're crushing dreams
haha
Lesss goo!
Thanks Ethan!
Good video. Don’t feel bad, tick toc and shorts have killed people’s attention span.
Thanks man I appreciate it!!
Disagree with your 2 bucket method going to one bucket unless using a rinseless wash. Prefoaming does not remove enough of the contamination to make it safe. There's still plenty of paticles on the panels that can scratch when doing your contact wash when using one bucket. If you blast off your wash media with the hose before going back into the bucket then that will help.
This is exactly the misconception. If you are using the proper pre-rinse foam you are lifting and then rinsing off the major grit and grime. Just like a rinseless, after that step what is left is only traffic film, not grit. This is why the two bucket method has been pointless for some time. Yes, you are pulling film, but not grit, thus no scratches. Run this on a black car and you will confirm this for yourself.
@@prhawkeyethere was no mention of what product to use. A lot of people will go into a shop and buy the cheapest car shampoo they can find.
I don't care how many times you foam rinse foam. I'm not relying on that to make it safe to wash my car with one bucket(unless it's a decent rinseless and I've pre soaked already).
Thanks for watching! There’s not one right way to detail, so if you prefer having 2 buckets and feel much safer with them, then nothing wrong with that!
@@prhawkeyeFoam does not lift anything. 90% of these "pre-rinsing foams" are just repackaged soaps from touchless car washes. They don't do jack squat for real grime.
@@rooboy99 A single bucket with multiple MF towels or any wash media is the way to go. This way, you're not dunking/diluting the remaining dirt from your towel/mitt to your soap bucket. Also, you're more efficient since you don't have to spend your time rinsing the towel/mitt.
Did you not hear what he said? Prefoaming lifts all the dirt and encapsulating them so that when you rinse it with a pressure washer, the dirt will not scratch your paint. Of course, if you have an inch thick of mud, you can do your prerinse. But most of us clean our cars once or twice a week so all the things mentioned in this video is perfect!
If I only have the money to spend on rinseless wash method(DIY Detail products), I'll definitely do this method! Or I can always do both methods. Lol
Great Time Savers!! 😅😅😅😅😅
I don't like wasting time😂 Thanks for watching!
Off topic but we got the same sweater haha
Haha I got it from Costco last year, super good deal!
if you have sand on the car and you hit it first with power washer, you might as well use sand paper. when the car has sand or construction dirt, i foam it then rinse lightly prior to the contact wash.
@@pwrshots that’s definitely the safest way to remove grit! Water alone might remove them but the soap will for sure do a better job! Thanks for watching!
Bilt hamber tochless first approach
Bilt hamber seems to be really strong cleaning ability! Thanks for watching!
@willsridecare yes works very good. After this I use bilt hamber auto wash. Car looks as new
The real question is how to maintain my big towels
Wash it in the washer and either air dry or dry on low heat in the dryer
If the panel is a bit warm to the touch then rinsing it first is actually better, thats why critical thinking is needed in whatever kind of job you are doing..and aesthetic look(non-runny snow foam) is only good for tiktok/instagram.
You're right! At that point, it's not even pre-rinsing as it's for the purposes of cleaning but for cooling. Thanks for watching!
Got bored waiting for you to get to the bloody point of the video.
I guess I gotta get to my bloody point faster for the instant gratification addicts🤦🏻♂️
@@willsridecare😅😂😂Good one for the low information listeners 😂
It wasn’t so bad. His points are going to save me ALOT of time anyhow 👍
@@willsridecarethe timing of your video was great - ignore the detractors. 😊
@ thanks I appreciate it!!
Wow , you don't even have an actual preasure washer yet.
He lives in a condo and is able to clean cars to a really high standard without a pressure washer. Everyone has a different setup - it’s how you use it that counts.
And what about it?? You don’t need one to keep your car clean. There’s many different ways to detail efficiently, especially when you live in an apartment and don’t have a lot of space. That’s literally what his channel is all about
Oh no! only people with actual pressure washers can detail cars🤡
You talk far too much sense lol, other so-called detailers must hate you and I imagine a few product makers won't be too happy with you either, but thanks from me anyway.
I appreciate it, just sharing what I learned and found useful. Thanks for watching!
You've been watching way too much DIY Detail man. Yvan preaches some seriously questionable detailing techniques which you've basically regurgitated word for word. I thought my fellow Asian brethren would be smarter than this and able to see through Yvans poor teachings.
Which of these techniques are questionable exactly? These are known well beyond DIY Detail. Also there’s different ways to detail, if you don’t like these then don’t do them, like he said these are just some techniques to be more efficient in your process that work just as well as (or even better) than some other legacy methods.
@ 1. Foaming a car removing all of the grit and leaving only traffic film. Obviously not true 2. People have misinterpreted his one spray iron remover as clay lube technique to incorporate any and all iron removers, which is not the case. 3. Yvan has, on video, used the same bucket to clay paint after cleaning the wheels
@@AnthonySarino-f7nyeah I agree with you on #3. But 1 and 2 are legit. Foam rinse foam does work and knocks off up to 90% of gunk to make for a much safer wash. Furthermore as for #2 leaving rinseless on to aid for lubricity does work. I used this method all the time dip clay towel in rinseless and 1 spray on the panel then 1 spray on the towel has saved me so much iron remover. It gets expensive fast especially on a professional business level. I don’t even use diy detail iron remover. I use iron buster by p&s.
My point is his methods and techniques work outside of his own product system. They have made me a much more efficient effective detailer.
Sorry my fellow Asian brethren, some of us are open minded and tried the techniques and found it safe and useful. I would encourage you to try it.
@@AnthonySarino-f7n on that video, that's cause he said the car/wheels wasn't that dirty and he was going to polish the car afterwards anyway, so it wouldn't matter if some scratches happened.
9:10 You couldn't be more wrong. Foam is a piss poor way to apply a cleaning agent and pre rinsing is for removing dirt before a contact wash.
Hitting the paintwork with a pressure washer will drive the grit into the paintwork. You need to encapsulate the grit first.
@@iangeorge6409No it won't. There is absolutely no evidence of that. Stop citing Yvan, he is strongly opposed by Pro detailers.
you can spray on the chemicals if you like, it might use more product and have a little less dwell time! Thanks for watching!
@iangeorge6409 It will not unless you do not know how to use a pressure washer. You start your spray with the nozzle pointed away and atleast 2 feet away and you blast the water from a side angle so the dirt is being blown off. Water is also an extremely effective lubricant. I can garuntee you whatever snake oil you are using is more than 95% water. Your foam is nothing more than a money and time waster.
@@willsridecareIf its foamed up like you have down in your video, it is a waste of time. Detergents shoud not be foamed, foaming does nothing but make detergents less effective.
I'm a professional detailer with my own detailing business and I clicked on your video for fun and all it was you making a wannabe DIY Detail "tips to be faster" video.
1) yes, don't prerinse your car first when using a snow foam as prewash. The foam is meant to create lubricity and encapsulate loose dirt so it won't scratch your paint when the water hits it.
2) Two bucket methods is just a safety measure. One bucket works fine and you can just rinse off your wash mitt with the hose between panels before dunking it in your bucket or use more than one rag/wash mitt.
3) APC can eat through clear coat, etch glass, and will weaken any paint protection... Bug/tar remover won't, that's why it exists. Also bug and tar remover have chemicals that break down gummy adhesives and tree sap that an APC does not.
4) The brush on the interior is meant to foam up the interior cleaner on the panel, not to to spread it around. If you want to be faster then use a speed ball brush instead of the little brushes. Yes, you can use a damp cloth with rinse less wash but a speedball brush sprayed with cleaner is great to foam up cleaner on a panel when using it in conjunction with a steam cleaner. That's really what it's meant for and their is no foam left behind in crevices when you use it that way.
5) Yes, using iron decon is better when you use it on panel with a clay towel/sponge but you can only that once the panel is already clean otherwise you will mar the panel. The spray on method uses more product but allows you to do the iron decon at the prewash stage without scratching the car and it ensures all the iron remover is washed away during the handwash stage.
Thanks for watching and taking the time to comment!
I thought the 5 usless detail techniques are:
H O N D A
Profound insight
Does DIY Details All Clean work on tree sap (left paint for fews days) or Dark fury is needed?
If it hasn't been long then All Clean should take it off. But if it's been sitting then APCs won't work well on it. You will need a tar remover or adhesive remover, and DIY Detail has a tree sap remover, which is the same thing as a tar remover. Thanks for watching!