One Major Fault with the Range Rover L322 (That Can’t Be Avoided!)
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- Опубликовано: 2 июл 2024
- One Major Fault with the Range Rover L322 (That Can’t Be Avoided!)
Making an attempt to stop one of the most common issues with the L322 Range Rover in its tracks before it gets any worse!
Check out Lucy's channel if you haven't already @LucyOnCars
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IG: @georgewarringtonuk
![THIS is why EGR is so bad for your Range Rover. [4.4 TDV8 Belt Squeal, Inlet Cleaning & Service]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/S-SWu5i4adk/mqdefault.jpg)
Be honest... is it better before or after? 😆
I so love the range rover
It's definitely better george
better but could be a lot better ! with a bit more effort 😀
Did you rub the rust down before painting
@@darrengoodale6854 clearly not!!
Hi Goerge, congrats for your lovely L322, (Like the color) I Own since Oct. 2020 a L322 4.4 TDV8 model 2012 fetching now 234k km on the clock. Rust issues are common I actually have re-spraid the tail gate door 800£, the rear wheel arches are a little bit rusted but nothing to be concerned. For the mechanic, unfortunately here in Munich where I live the labor rate at LR dealers are ridiculously high (200€/h) so I quickly understood that I would do most of it on my own :) Then it is not too expensive and reasonably straight forward to do to maintain as long as you know what you do and how to do it. Just for the sake of safety, replace all the fluids (Difs front and rear Gearbox, transfer case, brakes, engin, power stearing and coolant) this is what I call preventive maintenance with a known fresh start… that will save your piggy bank in the future. Check your brake disks, especially rear ones if the friction sides of the disks are not rotten, rear calipers can get gripped (easy fix with caliper renovation kit) EGR on 3.6 TDV8 are known to be clogged fast. I had a overheating issue and it was the fan to be replaced and I also replaced the thermostat. Better to use OEM parts for that. Fuel gage reading issues, was the connecting wires that actually burned on top of the fuel tank. Bushes and suspension arms are sensitive 2.7t doesn’t help. Got mines replaced. Apart of that she’s running like a charm and even on German autobhan at 180/200 km/h she’s running perfect! It is a solid car.
I have this car as well as the original Defender. Truly a classless motor, happy on the farm or the Ritz. Classless!
My L322 is tackled annually between May - Sep to slow down the rusting. The rear door arches are the worst but as long as it does not become an MOT issue I have learned to live with it and treat it as a ‘service and maintenance’ item that requires attention periodically. Best wishes in your quest to keep the ‘R’ word at bay!
That's a great way to look at it! Thanks for watching 👍
Just a few comments: I´ve owned several Land Rovers over the years and presently drive a 2011 TDV8 Vogue, a 2013 Freelander 2 SD4 HSE and a 2001 Defender TDi.
I live north of Rio de Janeiro in the mountains. They are all excellent cars in their one way and, if they are serviced as specified, are very reliable and a pleasure to drive. Denys
All range rover l322 suffer the same. I spent £3500 having the arches repaired properly with new metal and a full bottom half respray. Also had wheels refurbished. Plates needed on both rear arches above the rear bumper. Both rear inner wheel arches where they meet boot floor. Small plate on offside boot floor where it meets inner/outer rear arch and a tiny plate on rear of the nearside cill. Fortunately my tailgate is completely rust free. I have the underside wax oiled every 24 months. It's a l322 2005 4.2sc and I love it. What's the point of spending £40K getting a newer Range Rover. Wife even agreed with me! Well there's a first time for everything
Great video , and as you said previously the rear arch corrosion doesn't automatically mean the cill is rotten , as many people say. I have a 2004 L322 and rubbed down arches and treated a couple of years ago. I prised off cill covers a week ago and rear cills still solid..
Brilliant I'm about to by one of these cars and yourr video was so much help thanks mate
Watching both your channels , keep up the great content , I’ve had my L322 for 20 years since new 216k on clock all done by me , use it everyday for work leisure and most everything, my wife has the sport , but we go everywhere in mine as it’s the freedom of having a good solid workhorse that I don’t panic where I park etc . Off to Spain 🇪🇸 end month for my yearly trip , drive it through France and into Spain 🇪🇸 1500 miles trip just to my Spanish home , I leave the car there until September and drive the 1500 miles back again , always in my trusted beautiful L322 ❤️❤️
Thank you for your nice comment i have both of them vogue 4.4 petrol BMW 80.k 53dark bleu beige / and supercharged 4.2 jag 07 sab Torino black black / back seat seems bigger on the vogue / so comfy road position is unique // does the new L405 100.000 times better ???
Never good but it will do for now..
Nice channel.. Nice video
Cheers George
Love mine.... Almost identical to yours.... Colour spec everything..... Best car I've owned.
It’s a small area to do the entire lower panel section - I’d just sand it all back to be sure there’s nothing hiding, then Dow the entire lower panel in one go - less effort than trying to blend metallics and you have peace of mind 🤷♂️
bought my l322 3 months ago same problem wheel arches both sides looked like a bit of bubbling so we thought we tackle straight away in our own body shop we cut all the rust and repaired looks awsom now
Just found yours and your wife’s channel, great content both of you! I only just found out how cheap these are last night and even though I’ve just purchased an i3 to be our main city car, I’m now seriously contemplating getting a l322! Hammerite is good stuff I’ve used it on a bbq to good effect, but next time sand the rust down first and use spray paint, you will need the colour and a clear coat. Mask off EVERYTHING you don’t want the paint to touch! You will get a much better finish, never use brushes on anything other than stone chips and very small scratches. That being said spraying will take some practice! And what you’ve done looks better than rust and will slow the process, but if u fancy trying a cleaner fix for content it might be worth sanding down and spraying.
glad you are enjoying our channels, please subscribe!
Great video, but as you say, you can never really stop it. In upstate New York they salt the roads something fierce so we are always combating rust, but the problem areas on the L322 rust from the inside out, so while you have improved the appearance, it's worth putting a rust treatment or fluid film on the inside of the affected areas. I would pull the tail gate trim off that one and soak the inside of the panel with a decent rust killer. ;-)
Nice on George! Loving your content from New Zealand 🇳🇿
Thanks so much! 🙌
As a fellow L322 owner I’m enjoying both yours and Lucy’s content. Unfortunately you haven’t treated the rust…..you’ve just covered it over. It will show through again very soon. Bite the bullet, let the body shop sort it out? That is was too much car to not? Both keep up the great content though 👍
2012 Vogue SE 4.4 TDV8 ..... I had evidence of small blisters on tailgate ... small surface rust in wheelarches ... drivers side sill where feet worn paint away ... underside was clear ... remarkably very little serious rust. Gave it to body shop - they cleaned up and resprayed areas .. car came out looking like new.
also need to put clear coat on it. Gpx. Loving this series by the way
I would sand the rust down to bare metal where you can then treat with Hammerite Kurust or similar then if you want it to look something like use a bit of bodyfiller sand that down then undercoat with either brush or spray whichever finish you prefer then put your body colour on it sounds like a lot of work but its not really do it on the tailgate and the arches clean behind the arch lip and maybe use your hammerite on that area as well as under your cill covers then you may get a few years grace from the rust but get as much off as you can then treat with the Kurust or similar theres lots of them , even if you grind a few small holes in you can just fill them then sand them back smooth I have a small handheld electic file something cheap like this one would do you ( Silverline Silverstorm 260w Power Belt File 13mm 260w) there really handy anyway best of luck its best to try and get back to bare metal though first 😉😉
Get the disco wheel arch strips for rear wheel arches and underbody seal sprayed
The only way to beat rust is to start with an already solid relatievly rust free motor and then treat it every year, rust comes from inside and underneath where salt water is left and allowed to do its worst.
Its difficult to find the right car to begin with, one look underneath is all that's needed on Landcruisers (which is what i run), spot a vehicle for sale and nine times out of ten i'm on my way back home 5 minutes later having never so much as unlocked the doors.
New car owners are to blame, if someone would just wash the salt off now and again during the winter and then give the whole vehicle a thorough wash down including underneath then rust wouldn't be so much of an issue, but seeing as many car buyers are too bone idle to even check the engine oil level it aint going to happen to all but a handful of vehicles.
Landcruisers are slightly different (Prado bodies anyway) in that the bodies arn't so much of a rust problem (split tailgates excepted), its the chassis that suffer as does the rear live axle casing, so it takes but seconds to peer underneath and decide if the vehicle for sale is worth looking at further, Range Rover chassis seem more rust resiliant but the bodies suffer more.
Not getting into argument which is the better vehicle, they all have their good and bad points.
Forget waxy type and similar treatments, they look great when applied but allow the rust to carry on in peace and quiet with the true horror revealed a few years later when it all peels off together with clumps of seriously rusted metal.
For chassis and inside cavities you need petroleum or lanolin based products, even chain lube/autotransmission fluid, these products creep and soak into the rust.
My own Prado is 17 years old and rock solid, the body is rust free including the sills, the chassis whilst a small amount of surface rust shows it hasn't changed at all in 6 years since i bought it, the chassis is coated in waterpoof grease, and twice a year i spray a healthy dose of ACF50 over the whole undersides suspension etc and inside the chassis.
An added benefit is if and when you come to undo something it doesn't snap off because the ACF50 has seeped into the bolts.
Its a filthy job to do mind, but in my opinion you can do a better job of long term rustproofing yourself than the professionals for about 1/4 the cost.
the sill trims are easy to remove, just a few trim clips and screws. get them off and check. i bet that rust is a lot worse behind them!
Firstly it does look better but I certainly would have cleaned all the loose crap off with a wire brush on an angle grinder first and maybe three coats of Hammerite put on over a couple of days then rubbed down to get a smooth surface before the Land Rover finish. My 2006 supercharged Overfinch is much much worse on the arches and they both need replacing including extra metal along the bottom of the quarter panel where it meets the bumper. I’ve already bought the arch repair panels and some phosphated steel sheet to do the work. I bought the car in mid December last year and the bodywork looked pretty good. It’s obviously been bodged to be sold as the rust is bleeding through the paint all around the corner of where the doors meet the quarter panel. Yes I got stung and I paid top money for the motor. Luckily my tailgate is rust free as yet lol good luck with your repair I hope it lasts
If the rear arches look like that on the outside, there is rust under the sill trim and the front of the inner arch will be rotting away.
With the rear tailgate, ensure drain holes are clear, sand rust away, rust kill everything, then hammerite. Then prime, then spray. And Waxoyl in every panel interior.
Excellent car. Desperately wan one for m tourism venture here in Soutern Africa
Come here to kuwait you’ll see all of them without rust all of them are perfect
With rust bubbling that much there will definitely be perforations through those panel's or not far off it , you need to get to a better bodyshop.
Try and find a replacement tailgate , it's an easier way to sort it , as the only way to sort the tailgate is a reskin.
Rust only gets worse , never gets better on it's own.
George it’s a bit late now what you should have done was rub it down to metal then applied the paints. If you want it spot less get the body shop to do and add some protection when it’s done. I own 3 l322`s and 1 l405. Can’t get enough of them with the space I have
never had rust issue and i live on the beach. Use it for what its made for ...getting dirty out back country
There is stuff from Halfords that will take the rust away down to the metal. Then you can put on an undercoat and then the body colour and clear coat. That would have been a better repair and probably would last longer.
Do you still have the RR? I have a 10 plate with a moderate oil leak and just been quoted 2k to put the lump to change all the seals because as it’s a V shape, garage can’t tell where it’s coming from!! Is yours ‘or other owners’ dry?
My l322 had rusty arches sold it and bought a l405 what a difference like night and day
Unless you prepare the surface really well, to ensure bonding, the hammerite can form a skin and the rust continue underneath, as I have found to my cost before. You can't just slap it on and hope for the best. Doesn't matter if you find another door of course.
Some prep was done before applying but as you say, this isn't a proper fix. Definitely a DIY job which might slow it down a bit. Thanks for watching!!
How's your rear inner wheel arches! These also rot!
I feel it depends you live in a area that snows and they use salt to help melt snow or you driving in water and mud leaving the mud in wheel well I live in texas we get mainly surface rust here In states better to buy any vehicle in the southern states for a better rust free vehicle but here in texas in spring & summer we get hail and hail damage can totally your vehicle
I would take the plastic panels off and check the rust properly as those plastic panels hold water. Rust always gets worse, better to stop rust as it starts than let it progress.
Finnegans wax oil is what you need my dads got a P38 RR and it’s like new
Freelander 2 wheel arch trims are used to protect the wheel arches on an L322 once rust is sorted.
The quality of the job ALL depends upon the preparation. All the rust should have been removed/prepared. Hammerite is good, but it’s not magic. What you’ve done may just delay the rust worm, but it’s not gone away
If you didn't take the plastic sill trims off, you're wasting your time. The sills under the trims are often holed and can rot around the jacking point.
The other area that rusts is the rear quarter above the bumper. This is from the inside out and if you see a bubble from the outside, it's already too late. This requires inspection by removing the boot inner trims and behind the electrical box on the right and the stereo stuff on the left. Behind these are boxes that are boot vent boxes, remove these and inspect and add a small drain hole.
Yea
I have owned an 4.4 L322 in grey 2011 for about a year now, have the same issues around the wheel arches as it was green laneing around Alnwick Castle in its previous life. Think black Hammerite might be the way forward - tailgate still ok thankfully. 4.2 supercharger before that and son had a 3.0 V6 2010 plate so we know them well. Live outside Nottingham but went to Gateshead for the 2011 - bought unseen,,, risky or what !!
Sounds good!! Thanks for watching and commenting!
Have you had any problems with your car?
None until the last few weeks... Losing coolant somewhere.. Need to sort post Xmas.
I’ve owned from the P38 days, L322 bmw powered and last 3.6tdi…I gave up just before the 4.4 and went Touareg tdv8….but I’ve always been under the understanding they were alloy and didn’t rust? Mine never did , but I honestly remember someone telling me they were alloy.
If they’re not I guess that explains the 2.7 tonne weight
Body is steel, most of the panels that bolt on are aluminium like the doors, wings and the bonnet. Rear door is also steel.
just replace tailgate with a good second hand one, you're lucky in that , that grey is a popular colour, so should be plenty about.
Keeping an eye on eBay 👀
Hi mate love your guys videos I watch both for your channels I own a Range Rover Vogue on a 2002 it has done 226000 miles I live in Cornwall with it and I took it away to Scotland and back to see family and it never missed a beat are owned 27 vehicles in the past and the Range Rover is 100% the best one keep up the good work mate. Cheers from stuart 😁👌🍻
Wow that sounds amazing. Could be my highest mileage viewer maybe 😎
Mine is rear wheel arches and rear supports
It would have been good to first apply a rust converter and just after paint over.
This is a nice colour nice video subscribed ! Love my L322 which to me seems the truth Range Rover root of others but that is a not neutral opinion of course !!!!!!!
Tailgate and rear arches are common on these. I’m in my second L322 which is identical to yours. Mines also a 2009 in Stornaway and it’s the SE with black interior. The SE has the better interior over the standard vogue. Next one up is the autobiography with leather headlining and dash.
Another thing to keep an eye on is the turbos. They blow a lot on the 3.6 regardless of maintenance. Make sure they’ve been done
Here is a tip from a Morris Minor owner. Don't paint anything over rust, you run the risk of trapping moisture and making it worse. Instead, go to Poundland or another cheapo shop and buy spray wax. spray it over the panels and into the folds and creases, behind the inner panels, everywhere! It will leach into the gaps and then leave it. When the propellant evaporates, the wax stays put. Once a year should do it. In hot weather, it starts to flow again and seals up chips and missing bits. Basically, it's waxoil on the cheap.
What sort of spray wax can you get from poundland?
@@adiec100 they used to do a car polish spray. I think it’s two pounds now but still cheap. Spray it liberally and don’t polish it. Other cheapo shops sell similar spray.
Great video George
Great job ..looks so much better 👍
It will also reduce the rust from growing. You don't notice a bumpy edge from afar.
Why did you leave the bubbled rust and not sand off ... Hammerite is only a binder and will never stop the rust spreading. Better is to sand off the rust back to reasonable surface .. any holes then fill ... sand back again ... then use a Cure Rust 'paint' as primer ... sand and then use the LR original to finish.
What's rust? None on my 2003 L322. But I am in Australia :)
sounds nice!!
@@MoreGeorge I had a look at another YT video by Matt Stevenson showing that area on the rear wheel arch then went and checked mine. I had previously checked that area when I pulled the wheel arch liner out to replace the pad wear sensor. But I will do the suggested mod of fitting the Freelander seal.
I love this video and vehicle..the rust is worth it .Great Video
I think it looks pretty good. I’m no expert, but I’ve heard of a product called Chemical Metal. I think it just goes on with a brush and as the name suggests, it actually chemically reacts with the rust and turns it back into metal that you can then sand, primer and paint. Good luck! Love the videos!
That sounds good, I will look into it! Thanks for watching!
No rust in Switzerland cars...very strange thing. 🤜🏻🤛🏻
And
@@kevinjackson6387 kevin...pls come back to New York. Thx
@@jacobdzik6238 haha wtf you on about
@@kevinjackson6387 and? 😎
@@jacobdzik6238 haha right ok ,and so what difference does that make to this subject as regards to no rust on cars in Switzerland
It will only get worse if you don’t do any thing,I’ve had,one for 6 months when I brought it the tail gate was just starting to go so the car peps I got it off had that done for me I carnt find any on the arches at the mo,the dirt gets trapped behind arches and it’s wet and starts rotting the metal so when you clean the cat make sure you clean all the muck out ,use a knife to get in there then clean it and stick some waxol on it
Crap not cat lol
shoud of rubbed it down first then put rust eater on to stop the rust
i have a 2010 rust free its sport HSE 5.0 superclean 4 sale hahaha
Fix it properly before its too bad! Dont do a misstake if u plan to keep the car
Hammerites crap..
We always used international grey primer which is a ship primer with rust killer and preventer in it..
It isn't cheap but it works and lasts.
There is no if about it, it will 100% get worse..you are better fixing it now while it's very minimal
I love when people say "its just a bit of paint bubbling".
No mate, it's totally rotted...
Unfortunately, new steel is the only way to properly sort it.
New tailgate is the only way forward
Before, camera 2 inches away, after, camera 2 feet away.
Sills and arches. Don’t leave it. Job 1 is remove the steps and don’t replace. Step 2, remove plastic sills and inspect. Step 3, remove rear wheel arch liners and inspect. Then decide what to do. Come to Simply Land Rover at Beaulieu and find some experts on the Range Rover Owners stand for advice.
First sensible comment. My 59 L322 had started corroding under the sill covers, there is a double skinned section that will be full of mud. You need to get this cleaned out and everything coated in a good wax. My auto started slipping when cold up sliproads, flogged it and bought another T5. Much more space if less luxury.
Get a good second hand tailgate in same colour. Fill with Dynax wax out of long reach aerosol. Job done.
Thanks for the tip!
I have a 57 plate L322 TDV8 with 101000 on clock, slight suspension fault but love the car, Harrogate
Sounds great, low mileage! 😂
Time will tell, still love the L322 for being the best made Range Rover ever
After watching your channel and a myriad of others, I have come to the conclusion that buying a late L322 is a bad idea. Money, Money, Money, frustration always needing attention apart from the regular maintenance, I will stick to my old defender. They are just not worth the hassle.
That's for sharing your opinion! And the old defender sounds very cool!!
After several months procrastination I too have come to this conclusion. I have decided buying a motorbike is less of a bad idea than an old Rangie haha.
@@del4668 I can understand the attraction - great vehicles when new, but purgatory when older. Good luck with the motorcycle, there's less to go wrong!
I’d get second opinion tbh
Hi do yourself a favour and pind a better panel shop, that rust needs fixing don't leave it because it will get much werse abd cost you double to fix.
a turd is a turd no matter how much you cover it
If this was my car ,I would get it done properly straight away ,I would loose sleep over it to be honest
I think it will be needed eventually!
Sorry George, but no way did you do enough preparation.
On something like that, it is 90% prep, and just 10% top paint.
Even with the Hammerite, you should have really gone to town, and rubbed down as much rust at you could.
Hammerite is one of them strange paints, that doesn't take well to being painted over, with any other paint.
I did more prep off camera before going in with the Hammerite but you are right! The longterm plan will be to replace the tailgate when I see one on eBay and get it into the body shop for the arches at some point in the future. This is a short term attempt to stop it in its tracks for at least a while :)
It's often said, never buy a high end vehicle that has had multiple owners and I'm afraid this carry on highlights why that is so true. The third, fourth, or fith, owner will try running a vehicle like this on the cheap, because they got it for a fraction of its original cost, and can't really afford to maintain it properly. I think it's laughable, owning a car like that and doing botched repairs with hamerite. Do yourself and the next owner a favour and don't bother with something like this if you can't afford to maintain it properly.
What's the point if you're constantly fretting about repair costs, that for me would be a complete downer on the joy of ownership. I hope the turbo doesn't blow, or these vlogs will come to an abrupt end.
i thought your biggest problem was the steering wheel is on the wrong side, Diesel?? put some in bug sprayer and coat the under body once a year avoid rubber and electronics ok if some hits it just not soak it works the best its tow truck trick and LEAVE RUST better find another body shop and paint will never look good on its own it only looks as good as the body work
And this is one of the reasons why they’re so cheap to buy 🙄……that rust isn’t going to go away, it’ll be spreading every day. Best of luck 🙁
let's see how we go...!
Every car rust and believing Facebook wow ya must be mad see if some one can spray bee wax underneath that will help stopping rust
I went to a body shop and they could do it for £280 but would only last a year , just leave it , I did , and all no change really .☺️
Good to hear yours hasn't got much worse!
yes leave,it will eventually eat all your money up quicker than it rusts
Lol my 2005 has no rust. Wtf iš wrong with this One. Check under car then.....
The road position?!? Seriously, what are you on about? Many YT reviews of range rovers are all becoming carbon copies of each other . Driving position, road presence. All mechanics commonly say 'this is the best I've seen. Good looking car though and yes the rust will get worse over time. Wouldn't bother with the tailgate though as at least that is isolated.
By road position I mean how high up you physically feel when driving these. You can see over cars, hedges etc, better visibility at roundabouts. It's the best way I could describe it!
If it gets worse? It will definitely get worse.
Hahaha WHEN, definitely when...
That’s the worst rust treatment/repair I’ve ever seen!
You did not attempt to remove any of the rust, or put any rust killer on, you just painted over it all.
I predict that it will be back to how it was, within a few months, maybe even worse.
I would do some research into how to repair it properly, or get a reputable body shop to do it for you.