3D Lab Print Spitfire Mk XVI Build
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- Опубликовано: 4 мар 2017
- With my Prusa i3 printer up and running, I make my first attempt at 3D printing a R/C plane.
Here is part 2, where I fly the plane for the first time: • 3D Printed R/C Spitfir...
Model file from: 3dlabprint.com/
Motor used: www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/...
Facebook: / hobbyview 
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Nice work. 3D printing results with these types of models with all those beautiful compound curves look amazing. The Comet or Lightning which they reviewed on Flite Test looked incredible.
What a guy! Such detail in his design, brilliant.
Great vid and I loved the Shakespearean reference.
Nice!
I just bought and downloaded my Spitfire from 3D LabPrint. I'm excited to get started.
Awesome video! Can't wait to see flight footage. I wonder where 3D printing will be in the next 10 years.
Hey, that was a fun video! Looking forward to checking out some of your other stuff now!
A gentleman with much patience.
Looks like your having good results with the kapton tape, I moved to pei build surface and haven't looked back, my only prep now is occasional leveling, I would recommend u give that a look
Thanks for this good video. You've answered many questions I have as a novice to this technology.
Nice vid. I use Green Painter's Mate tape available at Lowes. It usually is good for a few prints and comes in a nice wide format. Always good to make sure its tucked down nicely using a credit card or hotel key card as a "spreader". Be warned that the printed part will have a slight embossment from the tape, so if you are looking for a mirror finish on the printed part, you will need to do some sanding afterwards. CR10s, printing PLA with 65ºC bed and 205ºC nozzel. Works great.
Thanks for sharing this I am currently making printing and building one of these myself the design is well done I was happy with the way the parts came out. I also had the bed screws fallout on one of my prints early on in my printing. but my print did not eat the screw thats was strange. cool vid and thanks.
Well made Video :) ! The in depth view into the printing process was really nice to watch. I'm 3D Printing for about 2 Years now , so it was kinda funny to see you doing the same tests, i did, when i started :D. I also used Tape for a long time, then switched to glas with Glue on it. You should try PEI as a Buildsurface but make it removable because it sometimes stick to the Print very well. Greetings from Germany :)
Great channel. Really like the presentation style.
Awesome I too can't wait too see it fly!
One way I have found to keep nuts from working loose during any procedure is to take stripped wire and to wrap it around the bolt/screw in the valleys between the threads. That should keep the nuts on and tight. Hope that helps.
USE PEI ULTEM FOR YOUR BUILD PLATE, PARTS STICK WELL, ESPECIALLY WITH GLUE STICK.
Nice vid. You could try using a PEI plastic sheet clipped onto the bed instead of kapton. Thats what I use now. Can stick really well, and wont rip like the kapton.
I have found a piece of plexi-glass coated with hairspray works great. The hair spray provides a perfect release substance while providing a sticky surface. It's never failed me.. but you have to buy the black label plexi-glass which is the cheapest plexi glass.
Just found this channel.
Subscribed!
Hey really nice video!
Super glue is definitely a good shout for the 3D printers bed screws. Maybe also look at replacing the wing nuts for Nylock nuts (They lock into place and don't vibrate loose!)
Keep it up! :)
Might want to give a textured build plate a try, I use the anycubic ultrabase on my cr-10. Once you have it properly leveled you dont need any tape / adhesive.
You’ve made me want to have this setup!
Awesome Job!!! By far my most favorite war bird!
I like your show!
Keep up the good work!
Tape lifting is completely fine after the first layer
Any blue or masking tape will work fine
gr8 video mate, cheers Graham
I know this is 3 years later, and I am new to 3d printing (printing out a Eclipson Model T and a Unimog body for my crawler project at present), but have you tried Layerneer's Bedweld? AMAZING stuff. Holds very well when hot, and releases with almost no force when at room temp.
Awseome print dude.
use a glass work plate and spray it with high stick hair spray as the build video on 3D labprints website says to, works a treat.
i have watched a couple other people and one had the same problem so he went to home depot and bought a box of 12 mirrors, the ones you put on a wall. he put one on the table and prints directly on the mirror, no tape, this morning i seen another one printing on the mirror, it seems to grab the glass, and removal is easy
Like your video and i just love the spitfire and p51. Have several models of them and flew them with a lot of fun. Now i'm trying to get into printing my own planes and was wondering about 1 thing. How much fillament did you need for that spitfire?
I see a lot of guys use glass to print on with binder clips to hold the glass in place, good luck
snaprollinpitts I've been doing that with disappearing purple glue stick and I haven't had a pla or abs bed adhesion problem since. And instead of using loc-tite on the screws I just went to the hardware store and got stronger springs to force more pressure on the nut. Again no issues since the change.
its been a while but i do hope you have made a better filament holder as i can see its causing a resonating wobble to the printer,
so hence i can see some less quality banding in your print,
hope this helps with your prints :
And thank you for a good insight to this model and so i have been and purchased it from Labprint's Awsome!
Excellent video!
looks great how is the weight being made of plastic
I get some stringing inside my wing segments but they have a good outside finish. What were your print temperatures you used? any other tips?
Thank you for this video... very helpful!!!!
Interesting project, for sure. You might Elmer's washable school glue stick to stick the part to the bed. Caution - works almost too well. Apply evenly, and one or two passes across the bed. If it builds up, simply wash off with a damp paper towel or two. Looking forward to the first flight video.
You don't actually need any glue, even go directly on glass. Secret is, go 20% at start until the first layer is deposited. Once that's done, you ramp it up in increments of 10 with count-to-five pauses (keeps the ramp jerk down). I have never had problems with this method on PLA, ABS you need to go even slower tho (others yet to be tested)
Really nice, thanks for the update on the printer. Your 3d print seems so effortless... I have a hictop coming tommorow, hopefully mine is as smooth as yours! =)
Thanks, though not quite effortless. I've since had a couple of issues like the power supply failing and needing replacement. And i found another screw I forgot to tighten, haha. But I've done a lot of printing. I've since started on the P-38.
Good to know, I am pre-emptively trying to strike down the power supply problem by running the heated bed through a mosfet, search amazon for 3d printing mosfet. I think trigorilla is the best one on there right now, but there are a few to choose from... all under 20 bucks. I am brand new, so maybe someone else can chime in with more details.
if you think about it its better than waiting for shipping for 2 weeks
good one I have been printing the me109 on the alloy bed with a smear of glue stick and the bed at 65 c tip at 240c and no cooling fan with good result's but with the fan on the end of the wings lifted badly . may help someone
I would use thread locker,lock tight etc.
What is the sauce you sprayed on the aircraft. Nice build and I am going to use "thermal slots" on my designs now :D
At time index 4:13 you can hear that you need to lower the "jerk" setting of your printer.
Yea. The stock acceleration settings are a bit abrupt. I've been too lazy to update the firmware to fix that.
Thank you for that Merchant of Venice reference. Literal lol.
what of type plastic do you use? PLA? ABS?
PLA, which is recommended by the designers.
im happy to pay for the model. can i re print a damaged part. this will be my first model
Nice job. I enjoyed your video, however you said something, that a lot of people say, that bugs me. You said that 3d printing is slow, and takes a long time to print a part. Think about this: how long would it take to make that plane with conventional methods? And, what other building technique allows you to sleep or go to work while the part is being made? I consider my printer like a mini-me. While it's making parts, I'm free to do other things. Other than that, great job. Keep up the good work.
Thanks! You make a good point. All things considered it is a very amazing piece of technology. Press a button and while you sleep it makes a model airplane. That said, I could probably build a similar sized balsa kit in the same time it took me to print and assemble this one. However the 3D printed version is a lot less work. I think I might just like the 21st century.
thats not really a counter point tho is it? If it is slow it is slow, the alternatives also being slow doesn't change that
You can build a foam spitfire in a few hours
compre el modelo de 3dlabprint y aun no puedo imprimirlo siempre me sale con imperfecciones u.u
This is a great video. I think this is my favorite printer so far. I thought this plane was going to be lot smaller. Thanks for sharing sir. Happy new year. Question. What kind of printer is that. I think im going to buy one
use Thread Lock or clear finger nail polish, will keep screws from backing out
thats a big power setup for such a small plane. Is it really that heavy?
Bello! io ho visto tanti video per la stampa ma non ancora visto come prudurre il progetto del modello e con quale programma c'è qualcuno che può farlo
Every night, when no one is watching, this printer turns into a metal devouring monster. Be careful that it doesn't burn down your house, when leaving it unobserved, too. Nice video, btw. I'm surprised on how good this cheap printer is doing for you.
What glue are you using there? I understood dmca .. but that's another thing.
Por qué usas filamento transparente y no de color?
Magnifico trabajo puedo imprimir con una impresora CREATOR PRO
Gundam and Macross in the cabinet. I like this guy.
I've love to know what you use fir a radio systen> I haven't been able to find much info on radio set ups for 3d lab print planes
I used a Hitec Aurora 9x. But nay R/C radio system will work. If you are new to R/C model airplanes, this is NOT the plane to start with.
Bravo les ingénieurs .
Hey! I want to maybe print that but dont know which motor to use. the link u shared is faulty for the motor. could you give me the specs for this print like the ESC Motor and battery and servos.
Thanks!
Is the stl file free?
Can i know ur motor esc ann battery?
What bed leveling sensor is that?
Hello Sir,
Need your help, I am RC Airplane hobbies.
Please suggest best low cost 3d printer under $450 .
Suggest in the view of Airplane components, durable, spare parts of printer available, large working area etc . .
Please guide . . .
I'm using a Anet A8 with no upgrade parts at all its just been setup correct from watching many good youtube vids.
i have bought this 3d model drawing and my prints are fab even better than you see from here :)
you can get an Anet A8 for around £160 people may say it a bit high in price fo an Anet A8 but it has all the new improvement's , Anyway i love it and every moment its making something . hope you get one and join in the fun :)
hello what is the motor and propeller spec. ?
amazing, question though how did you design the airfoil?????? PLS TELL ME.
Royal Pain he didn't design it
Great video! How much plastic did you use for the Spitfire (not including the failed prints)?
Thanks!. Not much plastic. Less than a single spool.
Do you know what flow multiplier you used? I have heard numbers between 1.02 and 1.12. I'm sure it is critical for thin-walled structures.
Mike Whincup , I ended up with 107% extrusion multiplier.
Very good. Thanks
Hello. I hace a new Anet A8 3D printer. the only print I was able to complete wes the one which came with the disk. would you be able to help me get the printer runing?
have you tried these resources: www.instructables.com/id/Beginners-Guide-to-3D-Printing-Anet-A8-DIY-3D-Prin/
www.propwashed.com/anet-a8-build-guide-and-1st-print/
would it be better to use a 0.8 or 1.0 mm nozzle for more strenght?
I wouldn't recommend that. It would increase the weight and give a very rough appearance to the surface finish.
Have you got the bed issues fixed? :)
I just use my bed as it is. Sticks really good even without a brim, I just clean my bed after each print with some isopropyl alcohol by rubbing the bed in circles at first and then finishing by moving in the direction of the brushed surface. Give it a try if you are still struggling with the bed and let me know how it works out :)
Oh, yea. Fixed it a while ago. Kapton tape and glue stick has been perfect solution.
Thank you my good man ,,fly low and slow,,
Great job, I'm new to 3d printing... Do you have any fighter jetprinting files???
There are many stl files for that. Take a look at 3dlabprint.com and store.flitetest.com/
no way no way no way omg that is awesome
Use lock tight blue
What bond did you use?? And what is that spray after you use the bond???
Super Glue. Also known as cyanoacrylate. You can find it at hobby stores. The spray is accelerator to make the glue dry faster.
Have you tried gluestick without the tape?
No. But I've had pretty good luck with the kapton tape.
I don't suppose I could convince you to re-print it and send me the parts?
Добрый день! Где можно приобрести чертежи данной модели ???
3dlabprint.com/
Get yourself a plate of glass 2mm thick and hold it down using binder clips (use glue stick on top of it), the adhesion is A LOT better than those painting tapes...
plus cover it with bed sheet...
Why no rudder controls on a spitfire ? Rest of build perfect Regards Roy
Not essential. You really only need aileron and elevator for control. I fly my PSS Spitfire on 2 channel.
How did you slice your model into individual pieces?
The parts are already individual .stl files from the company.
metal to lmetal theads need blue loctite.anaerobic glue.
Hi my son gave me the same plane for Father's Day but the elevator will not fit inside the back of the plane try to print a second one but still it would not fit any ideas would be grateful.
Steven
Could you describe the problem in more detail. Are you talking about the moving part or the stabilizer?
Hi the elevator will not fit in the back of the stabiliser as the elevator is to long .
Steven.
Steven, send me a message through Facebook and maybe we can share some pictures to find the problem.
you have good voice lol
nice work.
Hi, Am I able to print all the parts using a 100*100*100 cm bed?
I think you mean 100mm bed? I believe you need at least a 150mm bed.
yes. i mean 100 mm. Thank you.
i can tell you its good and fly but can be tail heavy
so long as it prints faster then you crash its fast enough!
What happens if there's a power outage during the process?
We die....
With my 3d printer, when I power back up it will detect that a job is unfinished and offer to resume. Unfortunately, when the power is lost the fan stops, so the heat from the nozzle will melt the PLA in the feeder tube, completely jamming it up. So, no resume possible. Not sure what the manufacture was thinking when they programmed that feature in.
i have my Anet 8a connected to a UPS
APC Back-UPS 700 Watt / 1400 VA, 230V and linked to my laptop so if a power cut I will get around 3 hours but the chance is like winning the lotto. yes it does happen but hey what are the chances.
Try loctite for those screws so they never become lose again.
You look and sound so familiar, we’re you ever in the Army?
Great. What printer do you use to print this rc plane?
Did you use transparent PLA filament for your Spitfire?
I think it was called neutral color.
Did u use pla or abs?
PLA, as recommended by the designers.
go to a home depot if you have one and buy a box of 12 pcs only cause they wont sell one, its only $6.00 and some change fore 12x12 square mirrors, attach one to the hot plate with those stationery paper type clamps, one on each side in the middle of the mirror. it holds the part your making and releases it with no trouble and no tape, got the info off you tube from a few guys that tried everything on their 3d printers and the mirrors work best. lots of luck.
WARNING! Make sure your printer has *thermal runaway protection!* You can test if your printer has this feature by disconnecting the temperate sensor from the motherboard and preheating the printer. If the printer stops heating and LCD reports "temp error" everything is good. Do this again but this time disconnect the heater cartridge wire. The printer should again after a while report "temp error" and stop. If the printer does not stop, you need to immediately shut it down and install firmware with thermal runaway protection enabled. Thermal runaway protection stops the printer from heating uncontrollably in the event that it cannot sense the real temperature anymore and continues to try to reach the set temperature. Your printer can catch fire! This crucial safety feature is missing in most commercial printers.
Maybe a touch of thread locker
247mediapro haha. Not needed if screws are on tight enough.
use blue locktite
Try some will stop them from coming loose
Loctite
0.2 fl. oz. Threadlocker Blue 242 Model# 209728 $6.47
NICE.