I use layers of masking tape to properly gap control surfaces. Just wrap a couple pieces of tape around the back of the wing near the hinge in 2 spots then all you have to do is slide the elevator or aileron up to the tape. Once the CA is dry pull the tape out.
Thank you for showing us building and flying, I got interested of the real plane and saw that they attached a free 3D print model, then I start searching for more info and I found your video. Also, don’t forget to put a treat anywhere in the box for your furry friend every time you open the box, remember if you are excited to open a box how much more with your friend, I can see he/she is very attentive while opening the box so please give him/her a treat 😀👍
Me and a few buddies were having problems printing wing panels with our Guider II’s. We were extremely frustrated and after using your settings they are perfect!!! Thank you!!
Did you use cura? I'm working on printing my first plane and got lw pla and everything but decided I want to try this one as my first. So I ordered more tough pla and need alittle help. Can't get a reply from Troy I'd say hes pretty busy.
@@dericklong6191 cura is a great slicer, it works good with this model, but it will likely work best if you import the g-code files instead of the .STL (and trying to get the settings right)
Hello, what kind of problems are you having? On my L2 wing, for example, it breaks some of the reinforcements on the wing wall.. I'll try again with the settings from Troy..
you have a natural, calm, instructive nature about you. Very interesting and absorbing to watch your craft, hobby and interests in 3D printing, model making and RC plane flying.
Troy, thanks for the free Shark download. The Shark is an evolution of the Millennium Master, and my Tower Hobbies model is one of my best flying planes! I was worried when that model went away, and I'm very glad to see this variation that will never go away!
i printed mine using the supplied gcodes and it printed great, it all went together great without any sanding or anything, come to print the landing gear using the gcodes and they might as well be for another plane, they print great but are miles away from fitting each other, the springs won't fit in the legs, the front leg won't fit into bracket it rotates in, the steering arm won't fit into the spring
Use black electrical tape around the tire. It last a good while and significantly reduces the rattle. I do this even on some of my large scale planes with normal rubber tires for reducing the traction grab on asphalt so it ground handles like it's on grass instead of snapping uncontrollably with rudder movement.
Hey Troy, thanks for taking the time to show the build and the flying footage - I do enjoy watching your vids. Now onto the model itself - I personally have been designing and 3d printing airplanes for a while and my first impression was that from the outside the model is indeed looking very nice. Now from an internal perspective - not so much. I normally just go with a 2mm thick shell, which is made up to two 0.4mm walls (so 0.8mm total) and the remaining 1.2mm usually has 5-10% of infill. I find that this way the shell is quite strong (perhaps a bit of an overkill for PLA as it's quite strong naturally - I normally print with LW PLA). I think the internals (servo mounts, tubes, etc - particularly fuselage parts 2-3) are way overdone, but we all have our own style! :) At first, I didn't even look at the gcode files and went to slice the STLs myself. Of course I found that the models (particularly fuselage parts) had "errors", i.e certain geometries were shown as printed in mid air. Ticking "Keep Disconnected Faces" box in Cura somewhat helps the issue, but still, I was surprised that given the author's background, why would a 3d model be designed so poorly? But then the gcode.. See below. In the end, I thought to hell with it, went and printed one of the fuselage parts straight from the provided gcode and I was shocked, because I don't think I've ever had a print looking that crisp! Sorry, took so long to get to the punch line, but that is what surprised me the most, so clearly, I'm not as good with Cura as I thought I was! Will need to investigate what settings exactly they used to generate the gcodes! Thanks again! Hope to see more of your vids in the future.
I'm new to 3d printing but learning fast. Love your posts. I printed and built the Shark. Maidened it yesterday. Was a little tail heavy so I landed to move the battery. The right wing broke loose (the landing was not that hard and on grass). The wing needs a spar. Also, the landing gear, while cool, are not strong enough. The nose gear was very difficult to complete as parts did not fit well and I had to spend a lot of time sanding and trimming to get them to fit. I thought the fuse was well designed and went together well. This is my fourth printed plane. All of them are just way too fragile. I sometimes wonder if the people that create these files are also rc flyers. I'll keep trying, lets hope these designs improve. Love your vids.
I'm in the same boat as you, haven't flown it but today testing it on ground, one of the main gear broke taking a curve, Trying to redesign it right now to make it stronger.
That’s brilliant, the Flash forge is out of my price range, I only have the old yellow one. Defiantly need to look at printing this plane, when I upgrade my printer. Great video. 👍🏻
Dude you deserve way more subscribers than you’ve got for the trouble you go through to create these beautiful videos. You are very thorough in your tutorials and most importantly you are one smart SOB ! Thank you for the video and thumbs up and new subscriber.
Hey, another printer? I just bought Artillery sidewinder x1. Lol. Hope to see more builds with Swx1. Thank you for all you do for this hobby. It's been very helpful. Coffee is on the way.
This looks amazing, though I wonder if you could modify the canopy to allow for a RunCam Split 4 4K High Definition camera and module for some great aerial footage without adding to much weight or offsetting the centre of gravity to much.
pretty neat design and satisfying use of tools. at 1kg with that wing surface it's on the high wing loading side. feels like 3D printing it pushes the weight up quite much.
Hi Troy, 1st of all your Chanel is so good and very helpful. I am building 2 of the planes you have shown. I am using your thin wall settings on my Creality cr-10s pro v2. I also have a Guider IIs. I was hoping you could share how and what settings you used in Cura to set up the Guider IIs please. Big fan for Australia...
Another great build video plus parts list in the description. Very nice and thanks for doing all the hard work here. Is there any chance you can share the stl files for the wheels and tires? To be honest I'm old and lazy and don't want to have to learn how to use a CAD tool and how to design wheels/tires for this one project. Also can you point us to the stl files for the tpu hinges that you used in the build? Thanks again and keep up the excellent work.
I've done a lot of 3D printed planes, and you don't really want the wheels and tires. The wheels are much harder to print and suck compared to going to the local hobby shop and buying already made wheels and tires that fit properly. Trust me.
He did put in a larger, heavier battery but I still agree with you. I did buy a few models from this website (3DPrintLab) and they do offer a few biplanes and trainers so they would be slower and easier to fly for sure.
Great video, long time scratch builder, wanted to try printing a plane, this is perfect, before buying different ones. Thanks for sharing with us, have subbed.....
Don't solder those plugs unjoined like that! You're making them misalign by the heat flexing the inner pins as the case heats up. Plug in a spare male/female side first and solder them connected together. This keeps them from warping and makes them easy to remove or plug in after you're done. Also, get yourself some liquid solder flux. You'll never use that paste junk again, believe me.
Watched a few of you videos and all I can say is you Sir have great skills.. That paint work is sweet..do you have any videos of how its done id love to know. Nice work brother Subbed
Another question if you don't mind. I'm printing the fuse sections at the moment. I'm having trouble with fuse section 3. The long guide tubes for the control wires are not supported well and move when the print head passes over them causing the ID (opening or hole) of the tube to close up. By default the print is oriented with the big end down on the build surface. I'm in the process of printing it again with it flipped it 180 degrees so that the small end is down instead. I've also added supports to see if that helps. I was wondering if you had similar issues with section 3 if if so what did you do to address them?Edit: well inverting the fuse didn't work. I'm using cura 4.9.1 (latest). After slicing and using preview I can move the slider and see that the internal structures are not being rendered correctly, with some of the internal structure being printed in "mid-air" due to sections below not being printed at all. Under special modes I changed the "surface mode" from "normal" to "surface" and that seems to have fixed the problem when previewing it. TBH I don't have a clue what this setting does and am just taking shots in the dark here. I am printing it now to see if this change fixes the issue.Edit2: Well none of the changes I mentioned in the first edit worked and in fact introduced other problems as well. One thing that changed with the printing of section 3 was that I changed filament brands from hatchbox to overture. I've used both of these brands with no issues in the past but just in case I will try printing with some more hatchbox. If that test fails I will try slicing the section 3 fuse with an older version of cura just in case there is some kind of issue with the newest version of cura which is what I am using. I will come back and provide an update on the results. Edit3. Tried a re-print using hatchbox PLA and did get a better print than what was observed using overture. But the problem remains that the internal structure that supports the tube wire guides is not rendered correctly in the cura slicer resulting in unusable tube wire guides. I tried slicing with older versions of cura but that didn't fix the issue. At this point I am stuck and unable to proceed further. Just in case it helps my printer is a c reality CR6 SE although it's easy to see that the slicer and/or the STL (design) is the issue. I'm just wondering how Troy avoided this issue. Edit4 I modified the gcode that came with the download to work with my CR6 and the print is now underway and is looking good, will report on the finished product later. Looking at the gcode it was created under cura version 3.1 so downloaded that version and tried slicing with that, results were the same as with the current version of cura. Also noticed some z-seam settings in the cura settings folder for the fuse. I implemented those settings and sliced the stl resulting with a different location for the seam so I will try printing that file soon. Will report back on all the results once they are complete.Edit5 Success!! I was able to get a good print using the supplied g-code after modifying it to work better with my specific printer. After printing it I noticed that the z-seam was located in the middle of what is the lower part of the of the fuse section. When I sliced the stl i had the z-seam location set in a different location so i decided to slice the stl again but this time locating the z-seam in the same location as observed on the print from the supplied gcode which was Zseam x = 0.0 and Zseam y = 117.5 (this is the same as the "user defined" setting of "left" in the current version of Cura). So with that as the zseam setting I sliced the model and printed using that gcode and the print sort of worked but there is a structural piece towards the end of the print that does not print correctly. If you view the sliced model you can see gaps in the supports that causes the structural areas to fail printing. So bottom line the only way to get a good print is to use the supplied gcode. It is possible someone could go in and modify the stl file to make things work, for me that is way beyond my skill set atm. .
Hi Troy, I am wanting to print the TPU wheels you designed, are you able to assist with some of the setttings please? in particular the infill settings for the tyre and the infill for the tyre rim.
This video got me super excited about a plane that I cannot print. The STL files WILL NOT cleanly slice in Prusa, S3D or Cura. There are also no instructions on the print settings to use. Super disappointing!!!!
Bro there is also gcode files try that I've also tried to slice the model but it didn't work So I go for the gcode and it's perfectly okand my printer is ender 3 pro
I think I need more of your cura settings.... I printed my front canopy and its just an outer shell with no top or bottom or inner structures, really flimsy. so I added 10% infill and it has grid lines on the outside.... Please help
Very nice video, I'm subbing based on this but just some constructive criticism here: please stop saying "we'll go ahead and [insert thing here]". Totally fine to use in here in there but I think you said it probably 50 times in this video! :D Hope you don't hate me, and again very nice video!
Noob question here for my first build. Longest push rods I could find online are too short to reach the servos internally. Is there a specific clamp/join that I should use to extend these or should I just purchase wire elsewhere and cut to size? Great vid btw, helped me alot with most of the build
Wow! great build =) No need for an additional carbon spar in the wing? And may I ask what software you're using to do your prop calculations? Thanks again for the amazing content. Paint job is fantastic too :-D
I just printed 2 of the Eclipson model A free planes in LW-PLA and gave one to my 80 something year old Dad for Father's day, he was really excited to build it and fly it! I have a bunch of ABS from my old (first) 3d printer I'd like to use for some planes, probably start with the shark/aero, any tips or suggestions to get it to print decently?
SO the stl's are free and that is awesome, so many places want to charge for such, how much would you say you had in the electronics, $30-50?, clearly parts on hand knock down the cost, but those did cost at some point so assuming no free parts, how much would your best guess be on parts cost, not counting battery, radio or filament
Hi Troy, do you think you can help me with a profile for me too? With the gcodes already in the files, the nose of the printer catches the reinforcements on my wings and sometimes breaks them.. My printer is Creality Ender 3 V3 SE and I use Polyterra PLA+ at 215° by 60°, 0.7/0.8 retract and 0.1/02 extra retract. I tried to slice with the last cura app, but still cracked the reinforcements.. Thank you and I am waiting for an answer!:))..
I've done a lot of 3D printed planes, and you don't really want the wheels and tires. The wheels are much harder to print and suck compared to going to the local hobby shop and buying already made wheels and tires that fit properly. Trust me.
Hi I’m a new subscriber, and newbie learning to print RC airplanes. My question is about control surfaces failure under high stress and G forces. In the early 1990’ I flew Advance & Expert Pattern flying. Our control surfaces were 99% secure to pushrods. Has anyone lost a printed model due to printed control horns?? Thanks newbie. 👍🏽
Hi Troy, Did you print version 5? I have been trying to get part 2 of the body printed, but it kept on failing, then I noticed the internal supports does starts mid air, no matter what orientation? Is it only me? They even stop and continue mid air?
It's been my first ever 3d printed plane. It's a good design that deserved a nice video. Thumbs up!
how fast is it?
@@user-ux2wk6bn8g Fast enough 😁
I use layers of masking tape to properly gap control surfaces. Just wrap a couple pieces of tape around the back of the wing near the hinge in 2 spots then all you have to do is slide the elevator or aileron up to the tape. Once the CA is dry pull the tape out.
Thanks for the tip!
Thank you for showing us building and flying, I got interested of the real plane and saw that they attached a free 3D print model, then I start searching for more info and I found your video.
Also, don’t forget to put a treat anywhere in the box for your furry friend every time you open the box, remember if you are excited to open a box how much more with your friend, I can see he/she is very attentive while opening the box so please give him/her a treat 😀👍
Me and a few buddies were having problems printing wing panels with our Guider II’s. We were extremely frustrated and after using your settings they are perfect!!!
Thank you!!
Did you use cura? I'm working on printing my first plane and got lw pla and everything but decided I want to try this one as my first. So I ordered more tough pla and need alittle help. Can't get a reply from Troy I'd say hes pretty busy.
@@dericklong6191 cura is a great slicer, it works good with this model, but it will likely work best if you import the g-code files instead of the .STL (and trying to get the settings right)
Hello, what kind of problems are you having? On my L2 wing, for example, it breaks some of the reinforcements on the wing wall.. I'll try again with the settings from Troy..
It’s the same:)).. my printer it’s ender 3 V3 SE..
you have a natural, calm, instructive nature about you. Very interesting and absorbing to watch your craft, hobby and interests in 3D printing, model making and RC plane flying.
Troy, thanks for the free Shark download. The Shark is an evolution of the Millennium Master, and my Tower Hobbies model is one of my best flying planes! I was worried when that model went away, and I'm very glad to see this variation that will never go away!
i printed mine using the supplied gcodes and it printed great, it all went together great without any sanding or anything, come to print the landing gear using the gcodes and they might as well be for another plane, they print great but are miles away from fitting each other, the springs won't fit in the legs, the front leg won't fit into bracket it rotates in, the steering arm won't fit into the spring
Use black electrical tape around the tire. It last a good while and significantly reduces the rattle. I do this even on some of my large scale planes with normal rubber tires for reducing the traction grab on asphalt so it ground handles like it's on grass instead of snapping uncontrollably with rudder movement.
Hey Troy, thanks for taking the time to show the build and the flying footage - I do enjoy watching your vids. Now onto the model itself - I personally have been designing and 3d printing airplanes for a while and my first impression was that from the outside the model is indeed looking very nice. Now from an internal perspective - not so much. I normally just go with a 2mm thick shell, which is made up to two 0.4mm walls (so 0.8mm total) and the remaining 1.2mm usually has 5-10% of infill. I find that this way the shell is quite strong (perhaps a bit of an overkill for PLA as it's quite strong naturally - I normally print with LW PLA). I think the internals (servo mounts, tubes, etc - particularly fuselage parts 2-3) are way overdone, but we all have our own style! :)
At first, I didn't even look at the gcode files and went to slice the STLs myself. Of course I found that the models (particularly fuselage parts) had "errors", i.e certain geometries were shown as printed in mid air. Ticking "Keep Disconnected Faces" box in Cura somewhat helps the issue, but still, I was surprised that given the author's background, why would a 3d model be designed so poorly? But then the gcode.. See below.
In the end, I thought to hell with it, went and printed one of the fuselage parts straight from the provided gcode and I was shocked, because I don't think I've ever had a print looking that crisp! Sorry, took so long to get to the punch line, but that is what surprised me the most, so clearly, I'm not as good with Cura as I thought I was! Will need to investigate what settings exactly they used to generate the gcodes!
Thanks again! Hope to see more of your vids in the future.
I'm new to 3d printing but learning fast. Love your posts. I printed and built the Shark. Maidened it yesterday. Was a little tail heavy so I landed to move the battery. The right wing broke loose (the landing was not that hard and on grass). The wing needs a spar. Also, the landing gear, while cool, are not strong enough. The nose gear was very difficult to complete as parts did not fit well and I had to spend a lot of time sanding and trimming to get them to fit. I thought the fuse was well designed and went together well. This is my fourth printed plane. All of them are just way too fragile. I sometimes wonder if the people that create these files are also rc flyers. I'll keep trying, lets hope these designs improve. Love your vids.
I'm in the same boat as you, haven't flown it but today testing it on ground, one of the main gear broke taking a curve, Trying to redesign it right now to make it stronger.
That’s brilliant, the Flash forge is out of my price range, I only have the old yellow one. Defiantly need to look at printing this plane, when I upgrade my printer. Great video. 👍🏻
Definitely? xD
Don't buy a flash forge
Dude I'm inspired. I just got a printer and already fly RC everything, so yeah!
Sweet! Have fun printing :)
Dude you deserve way more subscribers than you’ve got for the trouble you go through to create these beautiful videos. You are very thorough in your tutorials and most importantly you are one smart SOB ! Thank you for the video and thumbs up and new subscriber.
Hey Troy! This is an excellent guide. Thank you very much.
Compliments from Turkey!
Thank you! So happy I could help :)
Du machst wunderschöne Modellflugzeuge! Macht.risige Freude.Dir beim Zusammenbau zuzuschauen! GRATULATION Bruno Kempter of Swiss
Hey, another printer? I just bought Artillery sidewinder x1. Lol. Hope to see more builds with Swx1. Thank you for all you do for this hobby. It's been very helpful. Coffee is on the way.
I still use the sidewinder every day, it is a great printer! I am so happy to help :)
This looks amazing, though I wonder if you could modify the canopy to allow for a RunCam Split 4 4K High Definition camera and module for some great aerial footage without adding to much weight or offsetting the centre of gravity to much.
pretty neat design and satisfying use of tools. at 1kg with that wing surface it's on the high wing loading side. feels like 3D printing it pushes the weight up quite much.
Yeah but he does mention he's using a larger than recommended battery which will add a lot to the weight.
Piękny model. Rewelacyjne wykonanie. Świetny w powietrzu !
Thank you for this! Gcodes still printing, but so far the fuselage and canopies are amazing! Ender 3SI PLUS.
Just about to start the build of mine over the Christmas break, using PolyAir PLA. I will also try the eSun LW-PLA.
I wanna see a full sized 3d printed 747 and I want it now!!! 🤯🤯🤯
It is there
Very cool plane. Great flying too!
3:10 It's nice to see how the plane deals with hard landings...
Nice Build. You are Working Hard. Lots of Love from Pakistan ❤️🇵🇰.
thank you so much :) Hi!
Hi Troy, 1st of all your Chanel is so good and very helpful. I am building 2 of the planes you have shown.
I am using your thin wall settings on my Creality cr-10s pro v2. I also have a Guider IIs.
I was hoping you could share how and what settings you used in Cura to set up the Guider IIs please.
Big fan for Australia...
Another great build video plus parts list in the description. Very nice and thanks for doing all the hard work here. Is there any chance you can share the stl files for the wheels and tires? To be honest I'm old and lazy and don't want to have to learn how to use a CAD tool and how to design wheels/tires for this one project. Also can you point us to the stl files for the tpu hinges that you used in the build? Thanks again and keep up the excellent work.
Thank you so much for your videos. You're a true master of this craft.
Really missed seeing a landing there.
I've done a lot of 3D printed planes, and you don't really want the wheels and tires. The wheels are much harder to print and suck compared to going to the local hobby shop and buying already made wheels and tires that fit properly. Trust me.
Love this plane design
3D printing is amazing, but they all seem to have high wing loadings, & fly fast.
He did put in a larger, heavier battery but I still agree with you. I did buy a few models from this website (3DPrintLab) and they do offer a few biplanes and trainers so they would be slower and easier to fly for sure.
Great video, long time scratch builder, wanted to try printing a plane, this is perfect, before buying different ones. Thanks for sharing with us, have subbed.....
Осталось еще пропеллер на принтере напечатать :)
I didn't see any comment on the sky during your flight. Nice background!
Nice. The almighty algorithm matched with something I know about. (I fly a ufo one so I watch other fliers for tips and the such.)
Don't solder those plugs unjoined like that! You're making them misalign by the heat flexing the inner pins as the case heats up.
Plug in a spare male/female side first and solder them connected together. This keeps them from warping and makes them easy to remove or plug in after you're done.
Also, get yourself some liquid solder flux. You'll never use that paste junk again, believe me.
Hi, what point in the video are you referring to? Please post the exact time. Thanks!
@@krissebesta ruclips.net/video/JTjhAT2Tnb0/видео.html
@@krissebesta 21:32
Awesome video man! Inspirational too.
Very nice build, I plan to download it and build it . Thanks
Looks a FAST ship. I could see why you didn't want to show the landing. Needs some flaps and retracts. 300Kph plane!
Nice custom painting
very good, another excellent video, the plane's design is beautiful and the assembly and painting was top...congrats
Nice job 👌👌👍 . Much love from India. Big fan of you
Im a bit skeptical of those plastic springs for the landing gear. Other than that I might try this plane out :D
Maybe belly land it instead!
I’m actually printing this plane
Excellent job
Thank you very much for these great videos
Excelente trabajo... sigue así..Saludos desde Cuba
I can't believe it's free
A very nice plane Troy. I didn't see a wing spar. Does it have one?
It does not, it doesn't need it!
Watched a few of you videos and all I can say is you Sir have great skills..
That paint work is sweet..do you have any videos of how its done id love to know.
Nice work brother
Subbed
Another question if you don't mind. I'm printing the fuse sections at the moment. I'm having trouble with fuse section 3. The long guide tubes for the control wires are not supported well and move when the print head passes over them causing the ID (opening or hole) of the tube to close up. By default the print is oriented with the big end down on the build surface. I'm in the process of printing it again with it flipped it 180 degrees so that the small end is down instead. I've also added supports to see if that helps. I was wondering if you had similar issues with section 3 if if so what did you do to address them?Edit: well inverting the fuse didn't work. I'm using cura 4.9.1 (latest). After slicing and using preview I can move the slider and see that the internal structures are not being rendered correctly, with some of the internal structure being printed in "mid-air" due to sections below not being printed at all. Under special modes I changed the "surface mode" from "normal" to "surface" and that seems to have fixed the problem when previewing it. TBH I don't have a clue what this setting does and am just taking shots in the dark here. I am printing it now to see if this change fixes the issue.Edit2: Well none of the changes I mentioned in the first edit worked and in fact introduced other problems as well. One thing that changed with the printing of section 3 was that I changed filament brands from hatchbox to overture. I've used both of these brands with no issues in the past but just in case I will try printing with some more hatchbox. If that test fails I will try slicing the section 3 fuse with an older version of cura just in case there is some kind of issue with the newest version of cura which is what I am using. I will come back and provide an update on the results. Edit3. Tried a re-print using hatchbox PLA and did get a better print than what was observed using overture. But the problem remains that the internal structure that supports the tube wire guides is not rendered correctly in the cura slicer resulting in unusable tube wire guides. I tried slicing with older versions of cura but that didn't fix the issue. At this point I am stuck and unable to proceed further. Just in case it helps my printer is a c reality CR6 SE although it's easy to see that the slicer and/or the STL (design) is the issue. I'm just wondering how Troy avoided this issue. Edit4 I modified the gcode that came with the download to work with my CR6 and the print is now underway and is looking good, will report on the finished product later. Looking at the gcode it was created under cura version 3.1 so downloaded that version and tried slicing with that, results were the same as with the current version of cura. Also noticed some z-seam settings in the cura settings folder for the fuse. I implemented those settings and sliced the stl resulting with a different location for the seam so I will try printing that file soon. Will report back on all the results once they are complete.Edit5 Success!! I was able to get a good print using the supplied g-code after modifying it to work better with my specific printer. After printing it I noticed that the z-seam was located in the middle of what is the lower part of the of the fuse section. When I sliced the stl i had the z-seam location set in a different location so i decided to slice the stl again but this time locating the z-seam in the same location as observed on the print from the supplied gcode which was Zseam x = 0.0 and Zseam y = 117.5 (this is the same as the "user defined" setting of "left" in the current version of Cura). So with that as the zseam setting I sliced the model and printed using that gcode and the print sort of worked but there is a structural piece towards the end of the print that does not print correctly. If you view the sliced model you can see gaps in the supports that causes the structural areas to fail printing. So bottom line the only way to get a good print is to use the supplied gcode. It is possible someone could go in and modify the stl file to make things work, for me that is way beyond my skill set atm. .
beautiful plane, will definitely build one. Will be my first low wing plane!
飛很快也很穩定，很棒的飛機。
Very cool and great camera work!
There's very little time for fine adjustments with CA, you build it fast......
Very beautiful model and beautiful work, congratulations👏👏👏👏👏👏🇧🇷
Czech and Slovak RC plane. wow
No spar?? That would last about 15 seconds with me flying it.
Hi Troy, I am wanting to print the TPU wheels you designed, are you able to assist with some of the setttings please? in particular the infill settings for the tyre and the infill for the tyre rim.
Thank you so much brother. I requested it. :D
that curious dog:))
This video got me super excited about a plane that I cannot print. The STL files WILL NOT cleanly slice in Prusa, S3D or Cura. There are also no instructions on the print settings to use. Super disappointing!!!!
Bro there is also gcode files try that
I've also tried to slice the model but it didn't work
So I go for the gcode and it's perfectly okand my printer is ender 3 pro
I like 10 mins flight times.
it has a great flight time!
Beautiful plane.
I was waiting to watch a landing,... now I'm just curious on how that turned out.
Is the Ender 3v2 a good 3d printer for making rc planes
No
It’s not ideal but it’s good enough
you should definately add a fpv then u can have first person also add some lights
Congratulations, amazing job!
Worked well on Ender-3 Pro
Wow So Beautiful Plane😍😛😜👍
this thing is an absolute nightmare to print on any ender item. im down 2 full spools of PLA with piles of errors and scraps.
Same with us, not sure if its the STL but out printed is a good Ultimaker S5 and S5 is printing these like a Alibaba printer!
I think I need more of your cura settings.... I printed my front canopy and its just an outer shell with no top or bottom or inner structures, really flimsy. so I added 10% infill and it has grid lines on the outside.... Please help
Great video thank you buddy
Thanks for sharing! Sweet !
Super cool
belo modelo..... excelente trabalho .. parabéns!!!!
Very nice video, I'm subbing based on this but just some constructive criticism here: please stop saying "we'll go ahead and [insert thing here]". Totally fine to use in here in there but I think you said it probably 50 times in this video! :D
Hope you don't hate me, and again very nice video!
Great and inspiring video!!! Does anybody have Simplify 3D settings? Most of the models are not showing on the preview. Thx a lot!
Great Job 😳. ⭐️⭐️⭐️⭐️⭐️
thank you!!
Noob question here for my first build. Longest push rods I could find online are too short to reach the servos internally. Is there a specific clamp/join that I should use to extend these or should I just purchase wire elsewhere and cut to size? Great vid btw, helped me alot with most of the build
Wow! great build =) No need for an additional carbon spar in the wing? And may I ask what software you're using to do your prop calculations? Thanks again for the amazing content. Paint job is fantastic too :-D
www.ecalc.ch/motorcalc.php
They have other calculators too, check em out
@@jotham123 Sweet, thanks!! :-) Checking it out now!
Super like from 🇧🇷
Did I miss the part where you put the wing spar in? This wing does have a spar, doesn’t it?
I do not see the link to the long push rods. How long do they need to be? Thank you for you time in advance.
Of all the planes you have printed and flown, which one is your favorite to fly?
The Tucano by Planeprint! Or the Eclipson Model R. Both are amazing
I just printed 2 of the Eclipson model A free planes in LW-PLA and gave one to my 80 something year old Dad for Father's day, he was really excited to build it and fly it! I have a bunch of ABS from my old (first) 3d printer I'd like to use for some planes, probably start with the shark/aero, any tips or suggestions to get it to print decently?
really beautifull plane . gg for your work
I will try to build this plane. thanks for your work .. could you try an RV-7? of Vans and company?
Hi @TroyMcMillan, you're done really best job. could you tell me what CAD software did you use to create stl? regards Jakub
@Troy McMillan,
Did you print this at a smaller scale than the original STLs? Couldn't help but notice... My plane came out HUGE
How fast does it go?
SO the stl's are free and that is awesome, so many places want to charge for such, how much would you say you had in the electronics, $30-50?, clearly parts on hand knock down the cost, but those did cost at some point so assuming no free parts, how much would your best guess be on parts cost, not counting battery, radio or filament
$30-$50 sounds right. Try Hobby King.
I like it, its good
thank you!
Hey, maybe i missed it, but doesn't the wing need a spar to keep the wing from folding under G loading?
Hi Troy, do you think you can help me with a profile for me too? With the gcodes already in the files, the nose of the printer catches the reinforcements on my wings and sometimes breaks them.. My printer is Creality Ender 3 V3 SE and I use Polyterra PLA+ at 215° by 60°, 0.7/0.8 retract and 0.1/02 extra retract. I tried to slice with the last cura app, but still cracked the reinforcements.. Thank you and I am waiting for an answer!:))..
Mind providing the STL file for the receiver plate you mentioned at 23:40?
Any chance you can add the stl files for the rims and tires?
I've done a lot of 3D printed planes, and you don't really want the wheels and tires. The wheels are much harder to print and suck compared to going to the local hobby shop and buying already made wheels and tires that fit properly. Trust me.
I have printed a few TPU wheels of other 3D printed planes successfully. Unfortunately I am a newby in CAD designing the rims and wheels.
Hi I’m a new subscriber, and newbie learning to print RC airplanes. My question is about control surfaces failure under high stress and G forces. In the early 1990’ I flew Advance & Expert Pattern flying. Our control surfaces were 99% secure to pushrods. Has anyone lost a printed model due to printed control horns?? Thanks newbie. 👍🏽
Well, he did use CA glue and locktite on the bolts so I'm assuming they're held in place pretty good. Cheers!
เราดุผลงานของคุณเกือบทุกวันในช่วงโควิท-19 ทางประเทศไทยครับ
Respect
you mentioned editing reaction settings in gcode file. could you give more details on this?
Hi Troy, Did you print version 5? I have been trying to get part 2 of the body printed, but it kept on failing, then I noticed the internal supports does starts mid air, no matter what orientation? Is it only me? They even stop and continue mid air?