A fellow flyer thats good to know, way to go and any landing that allows you to fly again is a good landing. I have printed two of there planes the P47 Thunderbolt and the Biplane gave the Biplane to a friend and hung the thunderbolt from the ceiling, will fly it later on a calm day which happens a least once every ten years in North Dakota, aleast it seems that long. Thanks for all your videos you do a really good job and everyone can learn alot by watching them.
Awesome video mate, thanks to this I was finally able to print thin wall RC plane components using Cura with my Flashforge Adventurer 4. With some setting tweaks I’m confident I’ll be able to get some good quality flyable parts. The mesh fix deactivation trick worked a treat for the slicer recognising the internal structure. Thanks man!
Super glue and Bicarbonate of soda also works really well to bond things together. VERY hard and strong bond. Cornstarch as well as baby powder also work well. But they have different consistencies. Cornstarch is super quick, like basically instant. Good for quick in the field fixes. Baby powder is a quite a bit slower setting than bicarbonate of soda with super glue, and can be used more like a putty but isn't as strong as Bicarbonate of soda. Quantities for mixing are very dependent. You can tell when Bicarb is saturated with super glue. Cornstarch is more like a sprinkling over the super glue. For baby powder there is the biggest difference. You can mix in as little or as much as you like depending on the consistency you want.
Was gonna say the same thing with the bakig soda, just remember it gets HOT if you bridge any bigger gaps. I woulld even recommend using paper molds to keep the baking soda in place, and then drip superglue onto it so you dont have to sand so much. Youd need thinner superglue for that tho, like blue spot (:
Bartosz Jakubowski it gets hot? How hot are we talking here for you. I would say more like a bit warm on bigger chucks. Granted the biggest filling I have done is about the width of my pinky finger. I have noticed it gets a bit warmer the more there is, but not by much. Maybe 28-35 degrees C maximum. Certainly not hot enough to melt or soften something like PLA. I wonder if it is related to the type of super glue. Some are meant to have different set times and viscosity. so whatever they add to change that factor could be what causes more or less heat. And yes thinner the glue the better for dispersion in the bicarb. Gel type super glue will work but only if you mix it in before you apply it. Which is really not great. Oh and Bartosz. Maybe try a thin sheet of silicon instead of paper for the molding. I used to use paper. Which is fine when you are at a workshop or at home where you have paper. But when you have to go out or if it is part of your emergency repair kit, keeping paper around is a pain. A little sheet of silicon is great and infinity reusable. Plus the added benefit of no super glue soaking into the paper (which is added waste glue) and no accidental sticking of fingers to paper if you are holding it there. No paper left behind either when you use silicon.
Martin B "hot" is subjective. I don't know that it would be hot enough to burn skin but it does get warm. The gases when mixed with baking soda is like tear gas.
Hello young man, I wanted to say thank you for the G_code info on the slicer setting for Cura. It has made a huge difference. No more pulling my hair out trying to configure the settings to print out the Spitfire airplane. I was really starting to have my doubts and wondered if my cr10s could print this plane. Now the prints are amazing.
Great choice on choosing transparent PLA.. The plane looks awesome! .. even if it didn't fly well still certainly a beautiful scale model to be displayed. brilliant video, model, craft, 3d printing and content.. keep it up with the great work! best!
Just a thought, would it be possible to include some vibration isolating mounts for the motor? At the moment the stiffness of the airframe is amplifying the prop sound and it would seem that’s something which, when eliminated, could make for a more pleasant flying experience experience.
I'm printing the P-51D Mustang; so far I have most of the wing printed and it is going well despite being a very long print project lol. Excited to get it all together and fly it!
Bought my first 3D printer (Ender 3 Pro) 3 weeks ago and another one week later. Main purpose - printing planes :D Already printed 3 planes - Eclipson Model V in LW-PLA, PlanePrint Foka in PLA and PlanePrint Zlin Savage Bobber in PLA
I love the clear 3D print, but wonder if it blends into the sky too much. This could make it challenging to know the plane's orientation when it's far away. Great video, thanks!
Doing the Cessna 152 on a stock (apart from a few minor tweaks) Ender 3. Most of it is Hatchbox PLA White, and the tires are done in Sain Smart TPU Black. Surprisingly, printing TPU on a stock Ender 3 was relatively painless compared to Fuselage section 3
I have a Prusa MK3S on order today and I hope some day to be able to print a plane like this. I have a lot to learn first, but I have been flying for a long time. Incredible!
Eclipson as well as 3DLabPrint provide very easy to follow instructions or even pre-sliced GCode to make printing planes really easy! Definitely give it a try.
@@CNCKitchen I will check them out. My printer won't be here for a week or so. I don't even know enough to understand slicer and how it works. But as soon as I get some of the basics down printing a plane is on the top of my list. I am going to start with @localfiend Northern Pike as he has released it at no charge and has a good build thread on the Flite Test forums but I certainly will be looking at other designs and have no problem compensating people for their work. I'm working on a Mooney 21 and trying to stumble my way through learning Fusion360 myself. So much to absorb. I love your channel and have been watching videos left and right. You come highly recommended from many different sources.
awesome project. I'm planning to surprise my step dad with a model of his favourite plane (mustang P51) and i'll likely use this model to understand the mechanics
Hab mir gerade einen Drucker mit anständigem Build-Volume bestellt (der 10 Jahre alte Reprap kann nur 150mm Z), einen mit 330x330x400mm. Extra zum Flieger-Drucken, der erste wird ein Eclipson EBW-160. Bin mal gespannt! Danke für das informative Video!
I'm just printing the Cessna 152 from them right now. :) I had some really cool RC Planes back in my home region but since I started studying in north germany, I wasn't able to fly at all. But I will get back to this hobby and I already designed my own printable RC Plane, that well... lets say ended up being very heavy and I crashed while I was launching it because it wasn't able to achieve the lift that would be neccesarry. Wish me luck with the professionally designed one from 3DLabPrint :) I currently tweaking the settings, as the supplied gcode is not good for my modified Anet A8 with a Bowden E3D v6, Mistral cooling duct and the 3 month old, room stored Janbex PLA on an glass bed without any spray or glue on it. (Lots of stringing, some Wrapping on the wing tip) Thank you for this video series and the suggested settings :) Instant Sub after that :D
Thanks for sharing. I had a few missing tweaks to Cura and that helped me over the line. I have already printed the EasyMaxx and now want to improve the qality of the prints for the P51D project as this looks similar to your Messerschmitt. The quality of your choice of PLA cannot be overstated as this shines through; as so with the feed and flow rates and making sure your bowden tube is optimally placed to avoid snagging - especially as the HE raises higher up the Z axis, as is the case on my new AnyCubic i3 MegaS. I use a rubber band to help guide the bowden tube away from the Z axis screw - ANyCubic tiewrap the bowden to the HE cables which is not optimal. Getting perfect thin-wall prints is very hard, but with time and effort it can be acheived on any printer without the need to buy Simplyfy 3D and a Prusa which seems to be 3DLabs choice. Where money is no obect go for a Prusa, but many printers like the Ender 3 Pro and the AnyCubic i3 Mega S are well up to the task.
The biggest problem with PLA is the lower melting point in combination with thin walled prints. If you leave the 3D printed plane in your car on a hot, sunny day there is a good chance that serious warping will occur, which cannot be fixed. With darker colored parts, the problem will be even worse due to passive solar heating, even while flying and especially near the power plant (motor, battery, esc) as additional heat is generated there during operation. This is why I use either ABS or PETG filament for my RC airplane parts. They will not warp as easily. I am going to try PLA+ with my next project to see how well that works.
Can you 3d print a Freewing F-22 Raptor 90mm EDF JET ??? What sort of materiel would you use so it will be light and hard like foam and not brittle ???
Hello @CNC Kitchen thank you for this nice video. I bought this plane and have printed the parts, currently assembling. They all fit together very nicely without any adjustments coming from my Prusa. There is only a small gap on both wing halves between the first and second element, which I filled with putty. I am asking myself one thing however and want to know your opinion. The elements are all glued together just on the edges, there is no connecting elements to hold them in place other than the glue. This seems to me like it could very easily shear off, especially under stress in some maneuvers. The obvious pro of this is that the parts break apart cleanly and can easily be glued back together. However I'm asking myself if the overall integrity is too low without elements gripping into each other (Male/Female approach) to work against shear forces (Abscherung). What is your opinion on this?
Hi I love this video as I have been building and flying model airplanes for about 30 years and recently got into 3d printing to make parts for my planes I never really thought about printing an entire plane, I just wanted to ask about the build surface you used it looks like a plane glass bed ?.this would make sense as it would produce a reasonably flat surface for gluing the parts together.
warum kein 2 - komponenten kleber ?... der so schön dick is, aus dem baumarkt ... gehts um die transparens ? dass das so halbwegs im gleichen farbton bleibt ?
Im currently building a focke-wolf from 3d print labs and also their submariner spitfire also there such awsome designs and i also went with transparent pla 😎
I had trouble with the wings shrinking and pulling off the bed too. My bed was still at the right temperature, although the atmosphere was quite cold, and I believe this may have been the cause for the pulling.
I like this project! it was a realy interesting idea that it would be possible to show parts of the actual framework based on the original. I also like the camera experiment.
Great work! My printer is 300x300x400, I wonder if PLA is strong and light enough to work if I scaled this up to 200%? It would probably take a month to print though, lol.
I received a CTC DIY printer for Christmas, and I notice at 7:00 that you have a glass plate on the bed. What kind of glass is it. My printer did not have one and the first item that I printed marked the bed. Thanks for advice. I am a total newbie at this.
My dad and i just bought your P45 thunderbolt model and are excited to build and fly it. I was also wondering if its possible to make an A-10 Warthog model? I just really like the A-10 design and really want to add it to my collection of RC planes.
Errr ? So as far as the structure is concerned the steel control surface push-rods are the heaviest items. Could they not be replaced by PLA ? Could the Fuselage sections ends be formed with a rebated edge so as to form a lap joint between sections ? OK, that sort of design might detract from the outward appearance of a transparent model, but the increase in strength would be well worth-it in coloured/painted models.
Congratulations Aleksandras! Very nice work. I would like make you a question, what software do you used to 3d design ? I love the gliders RC. Regards Carlos
Hello Carlos, while I do not know what software he is using; you may like fusion 360. If you get the hobby version it is free and extremely easy to use.
It's brittle but stronger than you think. I wouldn't consider it "easily breakable". I just worry about heat resistance around hot batteries, motors, and ESC.
Super Videos von dir, danke dafür. Frage, wieso machst du nicht mal einen versuch mit LW-PLA der vergleich Colorfabb und eSun währe auch toll. Diese Filamente sind ja für RC Flugzeuge ideal!? Freue mich schon auf das Video :-)
Thank you very much for this good video ! I just buy the STL for the SPITFIRE MK XVI on 3DLabPrint, and I use Cura 4.3 and my Ender3 printer. I copied yours Cura settings and it's perefct for the wings, thank you so much ! But for the ailerons (yours blue parts) is not good, do you have other settings for the ailerons and fuselage ? Thank you, I will do a video on my RUclips channel when my plane is finished.
When you hear the German accent the first thing that comes to mind is "precision". Great work.
@Gaius Baltar hotdogs and beer ?
I just finished printing this model. I now see how the wing is held on! Thanks.
hi there
Could you please share models with me
@@ДимкаПузо boi, buy it urself
A fellow flyer thats good to know, way to go and any landing that allows you to fly again is a good landing. I have printed two of there planes the P47 Thunderbolt and the Biplane gave the Biplane to a friend and hung the thunderbolt from the ceiling, will fly it later on a calm day which happens a least once every ten years in North Dakota, aleast it seems that long. Thanks for all your videos you do a really good job and everyone can learn alot by watching them.
as a rcplane builder and a 3d printer this is amazing
WUNDERBAR
Only legit with american accent xD
@Wyatt Watling in German.
Erik Frank in english
@@MultiSubjector in French.
Hahaha...
Awesome video mate, thanks to this I was finally able to print thin wall RC plane components using Cura with my Flashforge Adventurer 4. With some setting tweaks I’m confident I’ll be able to get some good quality flyable parts. The mesh fix deactivation trick worked a treat for the slicer recognising the internal structure. Thanks man!
May i get the files?
Beautiful work , and GORGEOUS countryside ! Very NICELY _done_ !
what a beautiful design, the money is in the see-through, wow!
"After a couple of thousands replacements..." That's funny.
nice and smooth build. cheers...
12:50 you could've superglued toothpicks/fibers as rebar to make those joints stronger...
Jedes mal aufs neue bin ich von deinem absolut genialem Englisch begeistert!
Vielen Dank!
Super glue and Bicarbonate of soda also works really well to bond things together. VERY hard and strong bond. Cornstarch as well as baby powder also work well. But they have different consistencies. Cornstarch is super quick, like basically instant. Good for quick in the field fixes. Baby powder is a quite a bit slower setting than bicarbonate of soda with super glue, and can be used more like a putty but isn't as strong as Bicarbonate of soda.
Quantities for mixing are very dependent. You can tell when Bicarb is saturated with super glue. Cornstarch is more like a sprinkling over the super glue. For baby powder there is the biggest difference. You can mix in as little or as much as you like depending on the consistency you want.
Good to know, thanks!
Was gonna say the same thing with the bakig soda, just remember it gets HOT if you bridge any bigger gaps. I woulld even recommend using paper molds to keep the baking soda in place, and then drip superglue onto it so you dont have to sand so much. Youd need thinner superglue for that tho, like blue spot (:
Bartosz Jakubowski besides the heat, baking soda makes fumes. But it is very strong
Bartosz Jakubowski it gets hot? How hot are we talking here for you. I would say more like a bit warm on bigger chucks. Granted the biggest filling I have done is about the width of my pinky finger. I have noticed it gets a bit warmer the more there is, but not by much. Maybe 28-35 degrees C maximum. Certainly not hot enough to melt or soften something like PLA.
I wonder if it is related to the type of super glue. Some are meant to have different set times and viscosity. so whatever they add to change that factor could be what causes more or less heat.
And yes thinner the glue the better for dispersion in the bicarb. Gel type super glue will work but only if you mix it in before you apply it. Which is really not great.
Oh and Bartosz. Maybe try a thin sheet of silicon instead of paper for the molding. I used to use paper. Which is fine when you are at a workshop or at home where you have paper. But when you have to go out or if it is part of your emergency repair kit, keeping paper around is a pain. A little sheet of silicon is great and infinity reusable. Plus the added benefit of no super glue soaking into the paper (which is added waste glue) and no accidental sticking of fingers to paper if you are holding it there. No paper left behind either when you use silicon.
Martin B "hot" is subjective. I don't know that it would be hot enough to burn skin but it does get warm.
The gases when mixed with baking soda is like tear gas.
I have done the spitfire, the PT -17, the ebge, and the lager spitfire. Have had a lot of fun with them.
Hello young man, I wanted to say thank you for the G_code info on the slicer setting for Cura. It has made a huge difference. No more pulling my hair out trying to configure the settings to print out the Spitfire airplane. I was really starting to have my doubts and wondered if my cr10s could print this plane. Now the prints are amazing.
You should use 0.24mm instead of 0.25mm on the CR-10 since the Z axis step size is 0.04mm. Keep it divisible.
Impressive!
Great choice on choosing transparent PLA.. The plane looks awesome!
.. even if it didn't fly well still certainly a beautiful scale model to be displayed.
brilliant video, model, craft, 3d printing and content.. keep it up with the great work! best!
my first thought was awful choice lol it would blend right into the sky! but thats maybe because im from new york where the sky is permanently grey...
It appeared to fly fine, But when you put a heavy camera on the very tip of one wing, it's gonna crash
Just a thought, would it be possible to include some vibration isolating mounts for the motor? At the moment the stiffness of the airframe is amplifying the prop sound and it would seem that’s something which, when eliminated, could make for a more pleasant flying experience experience.
Thank you so much! I spent days trying to figure out why parts were missing after slicing. Made my day man :)
remember never fly directly after lunch, that moves the CG to the belly
I have no experience with any RC vehicles, but I'm determined to build a 3d printed flying wing. This look like so much fun!
I'm printing the P-51D Mustang; so far I have most of the wing printed and it is going well despite being a very long print project lol. Excited to get it all together and fly it!
I printed the 3D Lab Prints Zivko Edge... haven't flown it yet, but it makes for a nice conversation starter at the lab :)
Bought my first 3D printer (Ender 3 Pro) 3 weeks ago and another one week later. Main purpose - printing planes :D
Already printed 3 planes - Eclipson Model V in LW-PLA, PlanePrint Foka in PLA and PlanePrint Zlin Savage Bobber in PLA
Nicely presented,thank you for a most informative video.
I love the clear 3D print, but wonder if it blends into the sky too much. This could make it challenging to know the plane's orientation when it's far away. Great video, thanks!
Isn't there strength levels of the materials so you can avoid that if you wanted too?
Doing the Cessna 152 on a stock (apart from a few minor tweaks) Ender 3. Most of it is Hatchbox PLA White, and the tires are done in Sain Smart TPU Black. Surprisingly, printing TPU on a stock Ender 3 was relatively painless compared to Fuselage section 3
yeah, it prints firmer tpu real well
Great Video. Thx, pls wich nozzle diameter do u use? Thx, axel
Ich liebe dieses Flugzeug :) Mein Uropa war damals der Jüngste Pilot der dieses (damals hochmoderne) Flugzeug fliegen durfte :) Ein sehr cooles Video
I have a Prusa MK3S on order today and I hope some day to be able to print a plane like this. I have a lot to learn first, but I have been flying for a long time. Incredible!
Eclipson as well as 3DLabPrint provide very easy to follow instructions or even pre-sliced GCode to make printing planes really easy! Definitely give it a try.
@@CNCKitchen I will check them out. My printer won't be here for a week or so. I don't even know enough to understand slicer and how it works. But as soon as I get some of the basics down printing a plane is on the top of my list. I am going to start with @localfiend Northern Pike as he has released it at no charge and has a good build thread on the Flite Test forums but I certainly will be looking at other designs and have no problem compensating people for their work. I'm working on a Mooney 21 and trying to stumble my way through learning Fusion360 myself. So much to absorb. I love your channel and have been watching videos left and right. You come highly recommended from many different sources.
WUNDERBAR!
WONDERLIK!
WONDERFUL!
that's a nice bit of Baltic birch you have there
Nicely done. That plane rocked!!
How about you add some RGB lights inside for night flying 😊
awesome project. I'm planning to surprise my step dad with a model of his favourite plane (mustang P51) and i'll likely use this model to understand the mechanics
Hab mir gerade einen Drucker mit anständigem Build-Volume bestellt (der 10 Jahre alte Reprap kann nur 150mm Z), einen mit 330x330x400mm.
Extra zum Flieger-Drucken, der erste wird ein Eclipson EBW-160. Bin mal gespannt!
Danke für das informative Video!
Good idea of taking a BF109 to make the model
I'm just printing the Cessna 152 from them right now. :) I had some really cool RC Planes back in my home region but since I started studying in north germany, I wasn't able to fly at all. But I will get back to this hobby and I already designed my own printable RC Plane, that well... lets say ended up being very heavy and I crashed while I was launching it because it wasn't able to achieve the lift that would be neccesarry. Wish me luck with the professionally designed one from 3DLabPrint :)
I currently tweaking the settings, as the supplied gcode is not good for my modified Anet A8 with a Bowden E3D v6, Mistral cooling duct and the 3 month old, room stored Janbex PLA on an glass bed without any spray or glue on it.
(Lots of stringing, some Wrapping on the wing tip)
Thank you for this video series and the suggested settings :) Instant Sub after that :D
Schönes Video - wie immer.
Nice video as always.
2:44 - 2:53 that is so satisfying
Superglue and Baking Soda also works great for filling gaps, if youn dont have glass beeds or really fine sand.
Thank you for your videos, you deserve a lot!!
Thanks for sharing. I had a few missing tweaks to Cura and that helped me over the line. I have already printed the EasyMaxx and now want to improve the qality of the prints for the P51D project as this looks similar to your Messerschmitt. The quality of your choice of PLA cannot be overstated as this shines through; as so with the feed and flow rates and making sure your bowden tube is optimally placed to avoid snagging - especially as the HE raises higher up the Z axis, as is the case on my new AnyCubic i3 MegaS. I use a rubber band to help guide the bowden tube away from the Z axis screw - ANyCubic tiewrap the bowden to the HE cables which is not optimal. Getting perfect thin-wall prints is very hard, but with time and effort it can be acheived on any printer without the need to buy Simplyfy 3D and a Prusa which seems to be 3DLabs choice. Where money is no obect go for a Prusa, but many printers like the Ender 3 Pro and the AnyCubic i3 Mega S are well up to the task.
Is PLA way to go? or we should consider some more advanced filaments?
Inspiring. Thank you for the motivation. Been designing rc parkjets based on depron sheets. I might probably design parkjets for 3d printers shortly 😊
Very cool!
The biggest problem with PLA is the lower melting point in combination with thin walled prints. If you leave the 3D printed plane in your car on a hot, sunny day there is a good chance that serious warping will occur, which cannot be fixed. With darker colored parts, the problem will be even worse due to passive solar heating, even while flying and especially near the power plant (motor, battery, esc) as additional heat is generated there during operation. This is why I use either ABS or PETG filament for my RC airplane parts. They will not warp as easily. I am going to try PLA+ with my next project to see how well that works.
baking soda works well to fill gaps with superglue
Thank you for the great guide, appreciate it! Which are the control surfaces? Thanks for your help!
Can you 3d print a Freewing F-22 Raptor 90mm EDF JET ??? What sort of materiel would you use so it will be light and hard like foam and not brittle ???
Nice 109 model. It looks really good!
Thanks for your Video, do you think this is possible to slice/print in Bambu Lab P1P?
Gonna end in tears. Yeah, that'd most likely be me. lol. Great series! Thumbs up!
Wow, nice project
Thanks for sharing 😀👍
I laughed so hard in the Beginning (German as well) :D
Nicht so tief Rüdiger! :D
In guitar work, it is common to use super glue mixed with baking soda.
It is said that it dries to a very high hardness.
Hello @CNC Kitchen
thank you for this nice video. I bought this plane and have printed the parts, currently assembling. They all fit together very nicely without any adjustments coming from my Prusa. There is only a small gap on both wing halves between the first and second element, which I filled with putty.
I am asking myself one thing however and want to know your opinion. The elements are all glued together just on the edges, there is no connecting elements to hold them in place other than the glue. This seems to me like it could very easily shear off, especially under stress in some maneuvers.
The obvious pro of this is that the parts break apart cleanly and can easily be glued back together. However I'm asking myself if the overall integrity is too low without elements gripping into each other (Male/Female approach) to work against shear forces (Abscherung).
What is your opinion on this?
this is late, but you could consider plastic welding the pieces together with a solder iron and plastic or 3d pen.
GG I just purchased a CR-10 S4 and I am looking forward to printing my first 3D labprint aircraft just have to decide which I want to choose.
Do u prefer using sand to NAHCO3?
Hi I love this video as I have been building and flying model airplanes for about 30 years and recently got into 3d printing to make parts for my planes I never really thought about printing an entire plane, I just wanted to ask about the build surface you used it looks like a plane glass bed ?.this would make sense as it would produce a reasonably flat surface for gluing the parts together.
Very well done, thank you!
warum kein 2 - komponenten kleber ?... der so schön dick is, aus dem baumarkt ... gehts um die transparens ? dass das so halbwegs im gleichen farbton bleibt ?
Excellent effort and so interesting to see through the model. Subscribed.
Im currently building a focke-wolf from 3d print labs and also their submariner spitfire also there such awsome designs and i also went with transparent pla 😎
Good job! Thank you!
If you don't have glass beads, baking soda works as well.
I had trouble with the wings shrinking and pulling off the bed too. My bed was still at the right temperature, although the atmosphere was quite cold, and I believe this may have been the cause for the pulling.
I like this project! it was a realy interesting idea that it would be possible to show parts of the actual framework based on the original. I also like the camera experiment.
For that size I would print it in LW-PLA, I bet it would fly much better with the lower wing loading.
Is it a good idea to get a commercial grade 3d printer and start making basic RC airplanes and make a living off that?
Can you tell me what speed you print at? I'm having problems printing the wings because they so thin
nice project
Nice
Looks great!
Great work! My printer is 300x300x400, I wonder if PLA is strong and light enough to work if I scaled this up to 200%? It would probably take a month to print though, lol.
great build i love it keep up the great work
IT IS A VERY GOOD DESIGN OF A GERMAN BF 109 G I LIKE A VERY GOOD JOB
I received a CTC DIY printer for Christmas, and I notice at 7:00 that you have a glass plate on the bed. What kind of glass is it. My printer did not have one and the first item that I printed marked the bed. Thanks for advice. I am a total newbie at this.
Most glass will do. Just make sure it's flat. Mirrors are good for that or buy pre cut pieces for your bed size on Amazon.
My dad and i just bought your P45 thunderbolt model and are excited to build and fly it. I was also wondering if its possible to make an A-10 Warthog model? I just really like the A-10 design and really want to add it to my collection of RC planes.
Hi, which printer do I need to print a plane like this one? a good cheaper option.
An Ender-3 (pro) should be suitable.
Very good . Felicitations.
Errr ? So as far as the structure is concerned the steel control surface push-rods are the heaviest items. Could they not be replaced by PLA ?
Could the Fuselage sections ends be formed with a rebated edge so as to form a lap joint between sections ? OK, that sort of design might detract from the outward appearance of a transparent model, but the increase in strength would be well worth-it in coloured/painted models.
Congratulations Aleksandras! Very nice work. I would like make you a question, what software do you used to 3d design ? I love the gliders RC. Regards Carlos
Hello Carlos, while I do not know what software he is using; you may like fusion 360. If you get the hobby version it is free and extremely easy to use.
@@namelesssoyboy3747 Tanks You, I know about fusion 360, it looks nice and powerful!.
Regards from Paraná
Hallo Stefan - i print now the Stucka Focke- Wulf 152 H :)
Please help scren short setting creality slicer or cura 🙏
Great work..
Why do not extend connection edges a bit or overlap struts to slide in between glued parts.
Just printed the Eclipson VTOL. Waiting on electronics to arrive.
great video. I am going to print one my owe. is the creatility ender 3 suitable for the task? any recommendation on the printer?
Cool project!!
I was under the impression that PLA was brittle and would break easily, is that not the case? Is “Premium PLA” more elastic?
It's brittle but stronger than you think. I wouldn't consider it "easily breakable". I just worry about heat resistance around hot batteries, motors, and ESC.
Intro be like: Brace for impact !!! 😊
I may have missed it, but which filament did you use? Great work!!
Hey!! Will it be possible to print this with wanhao duplicator i3 mini ??? Thanks!!
Super Videos von dir, danke dafür. Frage, wieso machst du nicht mal einen versuch mit LW-PLA der vergleich Colorfabb und eSun währe auch toll. Diese Filamente sind ja für RC Flugzeuge ideal!? Freue mich schon auf das Video :-)
Top! Congratulations!!!
Thank you very much for this good video !
I just buy the STL for the SPITFIRE MK XVI on 3DLabPrint, and I use Cura 4.3 and my Ender3 printer.
I copied yours Cura settings and it's perefct for the wings, thank you so much !
But for the ailerons (yours blue parts) is not good, do you have other settings for the ailerons and fuselage ?
Thank you, I will do a video on my RUclips channel when my plane is finished.
The settings need to be slightly changed. Just check the manual.
Hi ! I would like to start 3d printing rc planes but don't know anything about it. Can you recommend a 3d printer ?
What is the wing span ?
And the weight ?
The costs for the filament ?
Very cool. Love it!
Dieser deutsche Akzent ich fühle es
Well done
What is the difference between the eco performance and the high performance set ups for the 3D lab print planes and which would you recommend and why?