How to Use the Lee Precision Load Master ~ PART 2
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- Опубликовано: 24 мар 2016
- GunBlue presents the second of a two-part instructional video for the setup, adjustment, lubrication, and operation of the Lee Precision Load-Master. Be sure to watch part 1 before viewing this video, for complete and comprehensive understanding of this excellent, high production progressive loading press.
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I bought a used one for cheap and couldn’t figure out what parts were missing your videos helped a lot
Man! I am so glad I stumbled onto your video. I watched your (part 1) and have my master loader running very smooth. Thank you so very much, very grateful. Luis
You're welcome! God bless.
Part 2 was as good as Part 1 my friend. I truly hope you and yours are all doing well since this video was made. God bless from Canada 🇨🇦
This series has been, hands down, THE BEST instructional videos I have EVER seen on RUclips or any other video platform on any subject. My only regret is that I can only give him 1 thumbs up.
I've had a load master for close to 15yrs and it's sat in my garage gathering dust as I couldn't figure out how to use it. After watching your video, I went down and set it up and now it works perfect. Thanks you!
I'm glad it helped you to enjoy your investment.
"always get in a habit of checking your charges every time before you reload" - pure gold. So many real-world lessons here. THANK YOU !
Get a RCBS Powder check die fir the Reloading saves measuring during Reloading, Stop the Press Continuing by locking it, if A Dbl Charge or Not enough Charge👍
Not sure how I never came across your videos until now, but they are all a Master Class on their various topics. Thanks!
This is the best Lee Loadmaster video on RUclips ! Thanks for all the work you put into this. Outstanding job !
Lee should pay him for this.
Thank you! This was quite literally everything I was looking for. I'm upgrading from a single stage after putting 5000+ rounds through it to ensure I hade the basics down. You're time is very much appreciated.
Thank you I'm getting ready to get a loadmaster and your videos are very informative.
Best video ever on the Loadmaster. Thank you!
Nice video. I like your cover up at 15:00 you pulled the case out to check the primer and there wasn't one. you instantly cut to a case that has a primer in it then at 1537 you said " That case was perfectly fine to return back to that station. I hope you mean the one that magically appeared not the one you actually pulled out. It would have been good if you had filmed your trouble shooting and discus reasons why you would get a case with no primer. Thanks for taking time to make this informative video.
Really find this series valuable. MY small primers were starting to give me a little grief once in a while, so I went back and reviewed part 1. Sure enough I had some oily substance at the bottom of the feed chute and dirt and grime had built up at the exit for the primers. I stripped it down and cleaned everything and put a minimal of grease in the locations you indicated in the video. Thanks for the valuable tips.
Thank you very much sir. This was a wonderful introduction to the Loadmaster press. I wish it had been available when I bought one of the first Loadmasters available. Many of the tips and tricks I learned from running many thousands of rounds through my press were presented here and a couple I had not yet thought of. If everyone who uses a Loadmaster saw your videos, the Loadmaster would have a much better reputation just as it deserves. Thank you again.
I have looked for 3 days trying to find a video that explained how this press works as far as the primer feed and how why there is room for 5 dies. I reload on a single stage breech lock so I’ve been scratching my head as to what the 5th die was for. Now I know everything I need to know to make my decision to buy this press. My choices were the Auto Breech Lock, the pro 1000, or the load master. I’ll be getting a universal decapping die and the Load Master. Thank you Sir for being patient and talking clearly and slow enough for us to understand. You have become my number one choice for good legit info. I’ll get my entertainment else where, but I will come to you when I need to know how to properly and safely do something.
GREAT VIDEO. Among the very best reloading video on You Tube. Thank you for taking considerable time and effort to make this video. I currently use a Lee Turret press with great results but am interested in the Loadmaster. I think you pretty much sold me on the Loadmaster. Again Thanks
What a fantastic series. I had a pro 1000 for many years and just upgraded to the loadmaster. I feel very confident now in being able to setup the loadmaster up with the universal decamping and factory crimping dies. I learned more about reloading in general as well. Thank you.
Thanks to your video I've just ordered my first loadmaster
Great instruction , have been thinking for years moving on to a multi-stage press , but my single stage Lee has served so well . I have tought my sons on it , thank you for your knowledge . Love your channel .
thank you for all your videos on the lee loadmaster I bought one and have set it up very happy with it your information was a big help
Just got my press and this guide was extremely helpful! Greetings from Sweden!
Awesome. Love my load master. Great setup tips as I get back into it after a long layoff for cancer treatments. Thanks.
Thank you I thought it was great you took a complicated machine and helped me get it set up absolutely every step nothing to guess at you didn't miss a step. Don't know what I would have done without you. Only thing left is to fire one.
Thank you. Lenny !!!
NICE, your expertize is very helpful. I have learned something new to add to my reloading. Thanks. Excellent video.
Thank you for such an informative and thorough video. I bought a press and parts at a recent gun show and was very confused as to set up. Your step by step directions are very good and appreciated. Glod bless you as well.
Making videos is not an easy task. You've developed a style that is very refreshing. Not too fast, not too slow. Minimum edits, and extremely educational. I am awaiting my Loadmaster as I type this and will rerun your two videos to set mine up. Excellent section on lubrication. That is one of the most important things to get right according to the experts I have talked to. You speaking style and speed are ideal for this type of longer, educational video. Thanks for all the effort and time it must have taken to do such a thorough job. I'm moving up from a Lee 4 hole Classic so I'll keep it handy to tune up some of those first rounds to get the right bullet depth and crimp while I'm still adjusting.
Just wanted to say thank you very much for taking the time to make this video! You are an extremely good teacher/ explainer to this press as I’m sure you are with many other things in life. I’m ordering that same press and am super appreciative you made this video! God bless you my friend!
Thank you for your time to respond.
GunBlue490 you are an extraordinary smart person and I thank you very much for sharing! 💜
I have been using the Lee auto disk for over 30 years and I most always have to use a different disk number than listed by Lee. Like you say....ALWAYS WEIGH!! Great videos thanks for making them and sharing!!
Best video i have seen yet on the loadmaster, i am still single stage loading but have always thought the LM was a great press, i plan on getting one soon and your video will be a great asset to reference to while setting up. thanks for being so thorough in part one and two.
Thank you for taking the time to make these videos. I recently started looking into reloading since walmart has made the decision to pull their handgun and 223/.556 from their shelves. Your video is so clear and helpful. I feel much more confident in starting this hobby. Thanks again!
Thank you very much for these tutorials
Great video! Consistancy with powder is my thing. Good press for plinking rounds. Thanks for taking the time to make a great series.
Thank you, This was Above and beyond what I was expecting! You are a master!
great informative video i was on the fence about a load master but for what I do I've decided for the money this is a great machine.
Thank you so very much for your video...it was very well done
A thought on guarding against mixing powders: I make a transferable powder label using masking tape. The label is placed on the powder can until I load the hopper. The label is then placed on the hopper until the powder is returned to the can.
Very, very good instructional video. Just ordered my Load Master. Thanks for sharing. :-)
Thank you for taking the time to do that in depth video.
props to you my friend ..Great demo about setting this press up thank you so much
Great videos, thank for all your help. Have that same press and learned a great deal. Will be putting your information to good use. Thanks for sharing and God bless you too.
Fantastic video! We are very grateful for your help! Thanks for sharing your videos!
And God bless you also. Thank you so much for making this very informative video.
God bless and a prosperous, Blessed new year
Thanks for the info. I have 4 loadmasters and they are great machines! Great "bang" for the buck!
Excellent! Thank you! 🇺🇸
thank you very much. Very clear instructions - gotta love RUclips. Thanks!
Spectacular demo!
Thank you sir for sharing your vast wealth of knowledge and experience. I enjoy all of your videos and although I've been shooting for some 40 years I still manage to learn something from them. All the best to you sir.
Great video, very well done. Keep on keeping on.
I have run one of these for many years, mine is one of the very early ones AFTER Lee changed the ram tube finish. I verify both the charge weight and the OAL again once I have all stations in progressive operation. The charge weight tends to settle and drop slightly and the OAL tends to shorten very slightly. I do not post size, but rather set the seat die to only seat and use a separate crimp die in the 5 hole. I have found the aluminum powder baffles to also keep the charges very consistent from full hopper to about 2/3 used. The VMD varies so much over lots that one MUST verify. Also a fan of Green Dot as well as Unique.
I have definitely learned alot thank you very much for your sharing the knowledge
Thank you so much sir. God bless.
GREAT TEACHER!
Thanks for the lesson
Very well explained and you made it very interesting to listen too I am in the process of reloading .32 S&W wadcutters for match shooting and am trying to get my New Lee Pro 1000 up and running a tutorial on this press would be Awsome thank you for passing on your knowledge
Dave Australia 👍🇦🇺
Another good one :) Thank you very much.
Very informative video thank you
Awesome video sir .
Nice and clear; thanks again sir.
You’re awesome! Thank you
This is one of the best videos I have seen so far on the operation of the Loadmaster. I am in my first week of setting mine up and it is not working to perfection yet. The priming system is the most problem and the ram operation being the second problem area. Last night I popped a primer . Evidently on of the cases didn't get deprimned and it hav no plade to go...PoW! Also the ram doesn't run smoothly and is hard to operate. I will give it some more time and go through all of your videos before giving up and going back to the Dillon I have had for 35 years. Thanks for your video...Not giving up ..
guitarbootman
Familiar issues that are easily resolved... Binding in the shell feed plate will prevent rotation. First, remove it and the shell plate advancement shaft and clean both thoroughly. Remove the priming system and clean it completely. Make no modifications or remove any burrs whatsoever. The latest priming systems work flawlessly; black for small, and red for large primers, with no other colors. Call. Lee for a replacement if they are not that color. Be sure your return spring is correctly upright and do not allow it to get bent when installing the primer system. Be sure the rocker arm is free and not binding. Excess primer pressure with the rocker arm will cause severe problems, and will flip primers. Adjust the rocker stop as required to seat primers completely, but not crushed. With a Qtip, apply a very small amount of standard EP grade automotive grease to the inside diameter of the plate, and to the rotation cam knobs underneath. Be certain that the tiny bevel on the end of the square shaft is oriented as I illustrated. Apply grease to the shaft sides and to the end of it. Apply a small amount of the greas also to the waffled riding surfaces of the red paint on the press. Replace the shell plate first, then the ejector, oriented as I showed, then the O-ring, followed by the nut, with the flat side up. Do not overtighten! Screw it on finger tight, then back it off 1/2 a turn. Be absolutely certain that you are using the correct plate. For instance, the 380 plate will not work correctly for 9mm and 223 cases, and vice versa. Slide the advancement shaft into the hole and work the press without shell casings until it turns freely, adjusting the knurled nut as required for best operation.
Most problems are among the above. The Lee system is very reliable, and is extremely smooth, but requires proper greasing and adjustment. Most importantly, smooth operation will give fine results. Fast, jarring cycling will cause primer issues and powder flying out if cases onto the shell plate. Avoid powders that fill cases high that bounce out. Use steady strokes. I load 45 ACP, 44 Magnum, 44 Special, 9mm Luger, and 223 Remington all the time, and the press works flawlessly. If it feels like it's binding, it's related to the feed plate. Also, be sure your case feeding system is correctly adjusted. Cases should feed easily. If two cases are jamming, back off the main adjuster one or more turns. Make sure that the square shaft is not binding on the case feeder, and that it's riding up and down freely. If the oblong toggle box on the shaft is sticking, loosen up the screw on the side as noted in the manual. Be sure the aluminum shaft is not bent. If it continues to stick and bind, apply JUST ONE drop of mineral oil with your finger to the square shaft. Remember that it requires some tension, or it will not feed cases.
Perhaps I may do a trouble shooting video.
Excellente vidéo pédagogique merci. 😁
Very good video
Oh my i forgot to thank you for all the advice an tips on the Lee press that is a Lee load master correct? If it turns out that i am going to get into this you are the go to person since i have spent about 2 weeks looking at loaders. I do think the Lee is a reputable company. I am not into paying for name brands. I do not like to just pay for a name. I also was a cabinetmaker my whole adult life. I am no dummy. I am thinking i will be real happy with a Lee. Thanks again
for all the good information. It will be very helpful too a lot of people.
Great Videos Thankk You
both videos are great. thank you for the time you put in on this. Lee has nothing on the website that comes close to the details you show and the manual is barely helpful at best. I just got this press but it will be some time before I get it set up as I need to buy others things to go along with it.
Thank you!!
From Sweden 👍👍👍👍👍🇸🇪
Best Ever!
absolutely great video, thank you sir.
What a great video! Makes me want to start reloading. However I feel I would need my phone to follow along very closely with play/pause/etc to get things set up correctly, as there are many steps to the assembly and die calibrations. Looks a bit daunting, but I think through this excellent tutorial it would indeed be possible. I just wonder how good the instructions are that come with the press? Obviously hands on training is invaluable. Thank you Sir for taking the time to make this video series. God bless 😎👍
Terrific.
Good job, especially with the cautionary rules. I use the Lee Pro 1000 but, the same rules apply
Thanks.
I also just bought one after knowing that I would always be able to know the detail of it I used Moro’s oil on the shaft and it is a stiff pull. The center position is easier then the end of the pull gets tight again. I put motor oil on it and while it is better, it is still not smooth or consistent. I note that the manual states to use STP so I will pick some up tomorrow. Hopefully, but I have my doubts, it will smooth out.
When you’re adjusting the press, it might be better to keep the brass feeder empty and feed them by hand until you’re good. That way, you don’t have to worry about redoing a step.
Thank you very much Sir. I have been thinking about purchasing a progressive reloader for some time. How does the Lee tool compare to the others out there?
new to reloading and learned a lot from your videos. on the 1st station, my loadmaster for the 9mm has a decapper and sizer. is it better to get a decapper and then move the 9mm specific sizer to the 2nd station , thanks
Worlds coolest grandfather.
Excellent I don't have one but I agree with Ed1e22
I'm using now the new drum powder measure. . Better option
The double disk would allow you to get .64 by using two .32 disks or am I missing something. I just got this press and I'm still learning. Mine came with the double disk kit.
would love to pick you wisdom on 9mm. my 115 grain plated are laser beams. but my 125 grain cast is tumbling bad and groups are spread out
I dont use the decapping die in my loadmaster. All my cases are decapped and cleaned first aling with inspection. Some cases are annealed before reusde.
I have a loadmaster. The learning curve and tweaks it took to run well was exhausting. What do you think of the dillion XL750? I know it cost twice as much as the loadmaster but from a frustration level, the XL750 might be the way to go.
After watching these two videos, it just confirmed my reservations about progressive presses. The only handgun round that I reload is .45 ACP, but it would be a rare occasion on which I would expend more than 150 rounds on a trip to the range. Somehow, it's never seemed like that big a deal to load 200 rounds on my single stage press, using pretty much the same procedures that I use for reloading rifle ammo. I've had people tell me that I'm wasting my time by doing it that way, but I can now see that the setup time is considerable and probably would not be worth it for 200 rounds. Yes, I suppose I could set it up and leave it, but somehow I'm still not comfortable with charging a cartridge by volume measure only. I prefer to set my powder charger to shoot just below what I need and trickle to the exact charge. I own two 1911s that I use for concealed carry, and when I took the class to get my license, they advised against loading your own concealed carry ammo. I don't remember exactly why. This was a very interesting and comprehensive video. If I owned a progressive, I'd definitely watch it several times.
The reason for not handloading CCW ammo is factory produced ammo such as Speer, Federal, etc has optical and electronic sensors to detect empty cases or low powder charges. Sure you could roll your own defense ammo but in my opinion not worth the human risk factor. Quality hollow point projectiles are expensive, however, the factory ammo (Federal Hydroshock and Speer Got Dot) has years of street cred behind them. I reload plinking and hunting ammo, but use factory loaded Speer Gold Dot for defense ammo. To each his own, but its good advice.
@@JinkxSoldga, thanks for this reply, but what you're saying doesn't make sense to me. Hand-loaded ammo tends to be more consistent than factory-loaded, not less. It's not at all difficult to find stories of factory loads with serious problems like missing primers, under charges, improper bullet seating, etc. Also, factory ammo almost also charges by volume not weigh. People who shoot in serious shooting competitions usually hand-load all their competition ammo; usually with extreme measures like carefully weighing and sorting everything (cases, bullets, primers) according to their weight. They will also get very meticulous about verifying case dimensions. After assembly, they will also weigh each round as a final check. Further, reloaded cases (so long as they are being returned to the same firearm) tend to better than new factory ammo, in that the case has been "fire formed," i.e., expanded the the dimensions of the chamber for which it is destine, providing more stability. After doing a bit of research, it seems that the reason that instructors advise factory loads for CC has nothing to do with the quality of the ammo: it seems that their are some legal ramifications to using hand-loaded ammo in a self-defense situation.
@@Wen-ve8nx fire forming only applys to rifles. You can not fire form pistol ammunition.
@@JinkxSoldga, There are some necked cases for handgun calibers. .357 sig comes to mind. Any necked case can produce elevated precision after neck resizing. Even though necked cases are rare in standard handgun calibers, the overall point stands: hand-loaded ammo generally of better quality than factory ammo. If there is a factory out there that is going to the trouble of weighing, sorting, and precision measurement of loading components, I'm not aware of it. (The costs would be prohibitive.) The general principle at work here is that the more similar each round is to the previous, the more likely you are to get a more similar result each time. It might well be an academic issue for most handgun shooters, as only a small fraction of handgun competitions emphasize precise marksmanship. Certainly, in most self-defense applications, this kind of precision is not particularly important. Then again, there's the issue of reliability, which is absolutely in the purview of a hand-loaders to exceed factory standards. If you'd like to learn more about hand loading, I'd strongly suggest a copy of the Lyman Reloading Handbook as a good starting point.
@@Wen-ve8nx Really cool to see your enthusiasm. Keep doing homework, you have a lot to learn. Anyone who thinks they know everything, knows nothing.
Best video for Loadmaster, thanks. I only have one problem left on mine after watching your video. When the 223 cases hit the base after falling from the tube a lot of the times they bounce and tip over. Have a cure for that I hope ?
Without seeing it, I would suspect that the cases are getting hung up by the case feeder. Check your clearances, and adjust the base of the case feeder to the lowest position that will still allow the cases to feed without being caught. Also, you must use the tallest case feeder. Personally, I prefer to set them on the feed plate manually, and it moves along fairly fast, with no issues. The tall, slender cases are tippy, at best, so careful adjustments are critical. Give Lee a call, and perhaps their technician can advise, as this is not an issue I deal with.
Tks GB, You make a good presentation of nice work. Have you used the auto drum, if so what do you think of it?
STAN PETTA
Yes, I have been using the Auto Drum for my 223 loads, and it works nicely. I still used the Auto Disk for pistol charges, sometimes with the infinitely adjustable measure option for smaller precise charges. Watch my recent video featuring the Auto Drum loading the 223.
Not complaining by no means but I noticed you didn't show the weighing of the correct powder measure any particular reason? Still a great lesson for novice like me, like Byrd I too can't wait for part 3. THANKS!!!!!!!!!!
No, I didn't, simply because each powder scale is different, and everyone should refer to the directions for each particular scale. This video was done to illustrate how to set up the Load Master, the process of determining loads, and how to interpret the loading data for the Lee system.I have made a separate generic video for the purpose of showing how charges are weighed.
Loved part 1 n 2. Any chance of a part 3 for a bullet feeder?
XvREByrd3vX
That will happen if I ever purchase one! However, I have not had any inclination to do so... yet.
GunBlue490 I couldn't find any info on it, but do you know what the primer wedge bar does? It's the spike that is screwed down above the primer system. Thanks!
XvREByrd3vX
Yes, it positions the priming mechanism rigidly in proper alignment to the press. It's a very important feature. You will notice also that bumps along the side of the press rattle the tray to keep the primers moving. So, it needs to be loose to allow agitation, but tight for primer alignment. Hope that helps.
Great video. You really know your stuff. Sometimes I have a primer back out just a little after firing. What does that mean?? Thanks
All primers back out at the instant of firing, but immediately afterward, the powder charge expands the case to fit the chamber in all directions, and reseats the primer. If the charge is too light, or if the primer flash outlasts the charge with a light load and resists resrward case travel, reseating will not occur. Avoid use of magnum primers with standard powders, especially with light loads, and never use rifle primers in pistol cartridges, unless specifically called for in a loading manual. This can also be confused with loose primer pockets that simply fail to retain a tight grip on primers. 5.56 NATO loads will very frequently cause primer pocket expansion, due to their higher than standard pressures. The military requires crimping to prevent this, and reloaders remove the crimp. However, the pockets are often so loose as to be dangerous with leakage on subsequent loads that can wreck a bolt face or worse. You can get a precision plug gauge, or use a number drill shank to test pockets after swaging, which is more effort than it's worth. This is such a nuisance and so difficult and time consuming to measure, that I rarely reload military cases anymore, simply because the number of throwaways gets pretty discouraging for the few cases salvaged. The best price for brass is virgin NATO uncrimped brass by General Dynamics, which is frequently found on line. Great brass, too, made to close military specs.
Thank you for the quick reply. Good info.
How many times can a brass case be reloaded?
How can you know about those you pick up at the range.
Are use stresses always detectable in a case (like at it's lip)?
Such a number doesn't exist, because brass life is entirely a matter of the work hardening that the brass is subjected to. Most cases can be reloaded 4 times or more without annealing, but so many variables are at work that it can be as little as 2 or as many as a dozen. The greater the pressure, the greater the work hardening. Neck sized cases far outlast full length sized cases.
To your second question, the answer is quite simple. Handloaders don't leave their brass at the range for others to pick up, so if you find 40 cases strewn on the ground, it's 40 once fired cases. Even if they have been reloaded, they are good to reload as long as they are intact and trimmed to length.
Beware that 5.56mm NATO cases and even some .223 cases have factory crimped primer pockets that must be swaged before reloading.
Brass simply fails with no particular warning signs. Unless it is annealed to soften it, a case will split upon firing at some point. It's quite noticeable and not something you need to look for. Handgun cases cannot be annealed. I produced a video explaining the annealing process and how to do it.
Great video thank you for sharing with us! I have one question may I ask what book is that that you get the disc number from,it's the book in the video next to your press.
It's the Lee manual.
Ok thanks
yea I ordered the lee 2nd addition reloading by Richard lee
Gunblue . If you get a chance please give me a comment on inconsistent OAL results. I have been going with anything that is plus / minus .005 of the specified OAL. I set up for OAL and check a few bullet seating's then proceed. I then double check the OAL on every cartridge once reloading is done. On the final double check I always find many rounds that are close to .010 over OAL. I reseat and re-crimp these without changing any settings and they come to within plus/ minus 3 thou. Not sure why this inconsistency keeps occurring?
Patent Arms
Overall length is not always the same as the bearing length to the rifling. Soft pointed bullets can have a flattened tip from handling that will affect measurement, even though the tangent distance of the ogive to the rifling is consistent. Even hollow point bullets can have inconsistent meplats, where one jacket is just formed a bit longer.
Another contributor is with seating stems that bear on the point of a bullet, where those inconsistent points will adversely affect seating depth. Seating stems should be shaped to allow the point of the bullet to have no contact within the cup of the stem, and the cup should bear only on the ogive.
Don't obsess about discrepancies of such small amounts as .005. I suggest that you maintain a typical distance averaging at least .015 from the rifling with your rifle, which will not place those longish ones in too close proximity.
Remember that bullet ogives vary in shape, which will affect distance to rifling, so every bullet brand and model is a rule unto itself, which should be established and recorded in your notes.
I can measure an entire box of rounds, and expect slight variations of .003, but it will have no discernable effect on practical accuracy in the least. Whether a bullet jumps .018 or .014 is not going to affect accuracy. However, if you are working at .010, you certainly could have a bullet that may only jump .006, and that would potentially cause marked differences in pressure. The rule is to either jam them all in, as benchrest shooters do, or back off from .015 to .030, the latter being preferred for solid copper bullets.
Alas, I'm speaking of target grade accuracy issues that should never be applied to ammo rquired for hunting, where stuck bullets or a stuck bolt can ruin a hunt. Never jam hunting ammo!!
Excellent video. But how do you fix, the problem of the depth primer set ?
He shows adjusting the bolt head for primer depth in video.
Have you ever run into case bulging issues in the glock 9mm. Where the reloaded bullet won't feed into the chamber. I've seen videos of guys using a "bulge buster" to reshape their brass for reloading because of glock barrels having a larger diameter chamber than most. Any input would be appreciated because that's what I'll be reloading.
Lee 4-die carbide set will take care of any bulges. The included factory crimp die performs a post-sizing (second) operation that sizes the case down after the bullet is seated, back to factory dimensions, regardless of the chamber it was fired in.
Thank you sir.
wich book is that it looks really detail on the specs..
Do you case lube? And what type?
Why would one ever use some of the other powders listed...if more of them were needed to achieve about the same velocity?
Is it simply a matter of availability?
I recommend that you watch my recent video that addresses those issues. The most economical powders are not necessarily the most efficient or the most accurate. Handgun cartridges can use economically efficient powders for target velocities, but rifle cartridges work best and most accurately when loaded close to full capacity.
From past experience, I've found the the auto disc always measures less than Lee states. But I always check.
Lee correctly follows the conservative side. Powder density volume to weight has never been consistently precise from lot to lot, and one is far safer undercharged than overcharged with a dense lot. Quick pistol powders can really be troublesome if a full charge is overcharged.
@@GunBlue490 I agree. I always weigh my charges, to double check.