BYD Atto 3 battery to home storage P6 - pack construction and BMS cell taps 2
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- Опубликовано: 18 ноя 2024
- A bit of a description of the construction of the pack as well as more of adding wires to the bus bars on my BYD ATTO 3 battery so I can monitor it with a BMS
also a summary of the frame I've made up and where I'm up to
You’re so patient and methodical! This has been fascinating to watch. Can’t wait to see the end results.
Thanks. I'm hopefully going to get it finished over the Christmas break.
Increible trabajo ❤
Respect sir.This is amazing
Quite an ambitious project with many, many pitfalls along the way - and all mastered... Congrats!! 🙂
One question: you put all the modules in parallel for a 48V system and the total current of all of them in parallel is now routed thru the diagonalish bar runnin back from the far end to the connector side? what about contact resistances and current density?
The car originally would have pulled up to around 350A when the battery was at 400V but the maximum current I'll be pulling is 100A at any one time. Less than a third of what all the connections/busbars are rated to.
Fantastic video series!
Out of interest, do you have any further knowledge on the comms protocols being used? We've got two of these batteries and we want to see if we can use them as they are by only designing an ESP32 controller that plugs into the existing pins (to do the job of sending the signals that the car normally would).
We're looking to open one up next week, so your videos have provided some very useful background information, so thank you for that.
No sorry, I don't have anything on the comms other than it appears to use CAN. I'd be interested in what you manage to work out though. I want to be able to run up the motor on a bench without the original battery so I want the signals that go from the battery to the car
It would be better to use a 400v DC inverter. The 9P14S system requires high amperage cables on both battery terminals and a high amperage relay and fuse.
I gather he'll be running an inverter - 48V units are cost effective and even if he has a couple at 10kW the current will be 220A, so not that bad. Adequate relays are expensive, as is cable capable of 200+ A, but are a very small part of the investment. Well, that's where I think Brendan is coming from.
I agree, a 400V inverter would be better. But I own a 48V one and I'm upgrading/adding to my current system. My inverter is only 5kW so max current is only about 100A
I miss you brendon come back
Hello friend, congratulations on the video. Can I make a video presenting your channel in Brazil and commenting that you made several videos dismantling the BYD battery?
I don't have any problems with that. Send me a link when you've made the video
@@Brendon_M Thank you very much friend. I will make the video about off grid solar system that uses electric car batteries and I will talk about your channel that dismantled the battery and filmed it in 3 parts and in the third part you assembled the battery in your solar energy system, I will put the link to your channel (of the videos of the disassembly and the third part that connected to your system) and I will use in my explanatory video some prints and a few seconds of your video if you allow, and photos of the disassembled battery and as soon as I publish it I will send you the link.
Battery modification is very troublesome, and the real-time detection of battery performance and battery temperature management require DSP management, followed by the development of user interaction programs
Olá amigo obrigado por compartilhar, achei fantástico toda a preparação gostaria de falar contigo qual o seu contato.
To avoid danger, would this battery have to have the same cooling system as the car and a BMS charge controller identical to the original?
Yes and no, I'm not pushing the cells anywhere near as hard as they would be pushed in an car so not have the cooling system won't be a problem as the cells won't get hot. If I wanted to use these cells in another car then yes I would have needed to keep the cooling system.
The BMS doesn't need to be identical, it just needs to do its job properly
You take a lot cell fuse?
That is a LOT of wiring!
Yeah, it's an absolute mess. But come hell or high water I'll make it work
@@Brendon_M I think you've done well
your re-wiring battery cell to 48v for your home storage? could you share sketch simplifies diagrams?
I go over it in one of the later videos but all I'm doing is cutting the busbars so that instead of having 126 cells in series, I'll have 9 sets of 14 cells in series. I then wired those 9 sets into parallel with each other.
Thank you Brandon for posting your videos. It has been interesting and educational as I have not previously seen a BYD battery pack being pulled apart. That was the first interesting point, when you found the blades were glued into position making it impossible, or at least very difficult to strip them out. Before watching your videos I would have presumed it would have been easy. Anyway, I have many questions for you that I hope you would not mind answering. For today all I want to know is the overall dimensions of the battery pack, as you have it on your bracket + what is the weight? Thank you.
Hi
The battery pack is around 1250 wide, 2100 long and 125mm tall. I haven't weighed it, but around 450kg
Thank you @@Brendon_M for your reply. Do you mind me asking you more stupid questions in the future like; do you think the blade battery pack looks both solid enough and flexible enough to take a flogging on long stretches of badly corrugated Australian outback roads?
I think it's built pretty solid and everything is glued quite firmly together so I think it would hold up quite well but I guess there is only one way to find out.
Long term there might be issues with cracking the areas where it bolts into the car what with it being so heavy
What is external measurment of the pack and the weight?
BYD Atto 3 60.5kWh pack 126S 150Ah 403V (3.2V LFP cells)
1050mm wide (1230mm including the mounting flanges). 2100mm long. 125mm tall
Haven't weighed it but around 450kg is my guess
@@Brendon_M hei.. thank you for replying.. i will draw cad.. (weight only akumolator should be 426kg)
Is it possible that household insurance will refuse to cover premises that have any lithium storage systems larger than your standard drill battery
Possibly, but I'm following the standards for my install so I'm covered unless the insurance company brings out a specific no lithium clause. Personally I'd be more worried about lithium fires caused by e-bike/scooters than a home storage system
Hey Bro..Where you were bought this battery from? and How about the cost you pay?
I bought a wrecked car and removed the battery. By the time I had the car delivered it cost me $11000
Hi Very interesting to watch..
See on another video you paid 11000 for the whole car
I have made a Off grid system using 48 @ 280 A/H 3.2 Volt LiFePO 4 cells for a total off 840 A/H at 48 volts for approx 9000 Aussie
including 3 JK bms
I know you can sell parts off the car ... Just wondering if there is much off a market for secondhand EV parts
as the general consensuses is that motors / drive train on EVs dont wear out
Watching how you Incorporate into the house grid
Yeah, the freight of the car made it more expensive than I was planning but I still think I haven't overpaid for a 60kWh battery. Though it's pretty much impossible to justify as I already have a 37kWh system that keeps me powered up 90% of the year.
This was more of a project to see if I could.
There's a bit of a market for minor accident things (wing mirrors, lights, wheels etc).
The motor stack is valuable to people trying to convert an old car to electric
There is a market for EV conversions.. Although typically still with Tesla Model S batteries because they are conveniently modular, and tesla motors are common enough to have 3rd party controllers without having to stuff about with the inverter.
Atto3's are all going to be under warranty still, and there's no way they'd use crashed parts for an insurance repair, so you are really looking at uninsured drivers, or guys who are trying to rebirth a write-off (and that's often legally difficult)..
Epic effort Brendon. That looks like a worthy use for these BYD cells. What chemistry are they?
The BYD pack is 126x 150Ah 3.2V LiFePO4 cells. The pack will end up as 9P14S so 44.8V and 1350Ah (60kWh)
@@Brendon_M LiFePO4 are an excellent chemistry, much safer than the LiPo chemistries. The 9P14S is good use of the 126 cells.
Geart efforts Brandon👏, Ive worked on ionic batteries and they are pretty easy. I have a byd battery similar to yours under my hands. Am interested in tearing it in to individual cells. Is it hard to unglue the cells or impossible. Cant certain chemical desolve the glue?
There is most likely is a chemical that will dissolve the glues or possibly even the right amount of heat.
There are 2 different glues, one under the chiller plate and another setting the cells into the case. The one under the cells can probably just be cut close to the cells and then peel the cells out, it's more like a silicone potting compound.
The other big challenge is the terminals of the cells being laser welded together.
It's not insurmountable but too hard for me to attempt, also I was scared I was going to damage the cells
@@Brendon_M I've watched a Chinese mechanic repairing a blad battery pack almost similar to yours. He poured a chimical underneath the cells and then lifted them with wooden pieces. I couldn't figure out the criminal but he said it is sol solution and it is written on the container Ac Delco . He used screws and chisels to remove the top plate. I can share that video with you if you are interested.
I'd love to see it
@@Brendon_M I've replied to your comment but my reply just disappeared!
RUclips blocked it because of the link I think. I tried to override the decision but the post just disappeared from the "held for review" list after I approved it
hello sir
I want to buy online software for BYD EV and its device for diagnosis faults, can you help me or connect me to someone who can help me?
What is the BYD ATTO 3 battery price? I see online 26000$, >400$ per kwh really?
I paid $11000 including freight for the whole car/wreck
Any updates on the build ?
Sort of. The battery is up and running and has been powering my house since Christmas. Not much to show in a video other than a solar inverter sitting on my wall so I haven't really bothered.
I guess I could do an overview of the system and get a screen capture of the webpage showing the system running... Give me a couple of weeks an I'll see what I can whip up
Yes please, that would be great. Would like to do something similar myself. Was just curious about your build first
Can you also show how it’s connected to your inverter please
Will do, but if you want to try something like this yourself I would strongly recommend using Dala the Great's system ( github.com/dalathegreat/Battery-Emulator ) No modifications to the battery or anything. All you need is a compatible high voltage inverter and EV battery and connect the 2 together. Much safer and much more robust
Seems like alot of effort to modify this pack when you could have run a high voltage inverter and run the whole pack unmodified.
I can't disagree with you. The only reason I'm doing all this is because I'm trying to get it connected to an existing system
OK you remove its all?
Yeah, I gave up on having fuses directly at the cells. It was going to create more safety concerns then actually protect me from anything
En los modelos actuales con tecnología cell to body es posible desmontar toda la batería 🪫, si deseo cambiarla por una mejor o mas económica, se puede ❓❔🪫
I'm not sure. I want to pull one apart but I haven't had a chance yet
Any idea where is pyro fuse on the byd atto3?
Bought with airbags deployed
I know I answered you already but for completeness for others I'll repeat here.
The BYD Atto 3 doesn't have a pyro fuse, after a crash it only logs fault codes that just have to be cleared with a scan tool before the car will ready up again. I had to use a proper workshop scan tool to do it, I didn't have any luck using a Bluetooth/phone APP style of scanner
@@Brendon_M I see, will try it
@@Brendon_M by proper workshop tool do you mean special for Byd only?
Or decent Autel version can do it?
@@Brendon_M actually fixed it when disconnected all blown airbags and sensor on the effected side,then cleared codes .
And she drove down from the trailer,yey
I used an Autel one but any reasonable ($1000+) scan tool should be able to do it
That is a very labour intensive complicated fuel tank, ok, energy box. A non-repairable battery box.
Hats off to you but with all the EV cars that catch fire there is no way I would want that near my house after it’s been altered.
I don’t even park next to the pieces of shit EV’s.
Better stop parking next to petrol/diesel cars 😆
Why!!
Search BYD EV car fires if you haven’t already.
I’m just sayin.
I truly hope it never happens to you. I just think lithium batteries are a bit dangerous.
@@mattweeks7142 So is petrol when its not handled correctly. The issue with lithium is that if they ignite, then they cannot be put out, unlike petrol where you starve the fire of oxygen and it will go out.
@@mattweeks7142 this battery is made of LiFePO4 chemistry and it is extremly safe unlike lithium ion
@@MiniLuv-1984😂 Fire department always gets called and car is totalled anyways in petrol fire .
LFP batteries making fires obsolete .
most fires in china is hybrids . They are proven to catch more fire in US insurance study as well.
Backbreaking ....