Go to ground.news/greatscott for a data-driven way to stay up to date with tech news and more. Subscribe though my link for 40% off unlimited access to Ground News.
3:50 - but what board would you recommend for the purpose of finding out which kind of power delivery is supported ? There is one board from an austrian country that can check that but that was far more expensive around 30 € or so at least for EU buyers. Hence the question if you have not find a product that does the trick way cheaper then the one sold on amazon ? thanks
@@dogwalker666 No. The rake angle runs down the entire length of the bit. And has more to do with the angle that the cutting edge contacts the material. The relief angle is the part that is being ground down by this tool, as well as the center section known as the chisel angle. Grinding off the relief and the chisel angels will render the bit useless.
@@7996hobguy Different terminology for the same thing, I know how to sharpen drills, I was taught as an apprentice. We work mostly with (Food Grade) 316 stainless steel, It blunts drills within a few holes, As long as you don't burn the drill we are constantly re sharpening them, Below 3.5mm starts getting difficult.
I think another problem is, that usually when you have hardened steel the outsided layer is harder, so if you grind it down, you might get a good edge but It will get dull faster because the metal will be softer.
As an electronic hobbyist. These videos are perfect for me to know about good modules available saves a lot of time and money. Love your videos. Keep posting ❤
To the issue with the app needing location permissions for Bluetooth: This is actually a very misunderstood feature. I don't know about this specific app but I'm guessing it wants to discover Bluetooth devices in the area to find the device. Since someone could technically track you by having a lot of Bluetooth devices scattered around you, this needs the location permissions. On modern devices, this does not require the GPS permission (exact location) though.
Yes Apps that need permission to use blutooth need to have location permissions. I don´t really like that they implemented it that way but there is nothing we can change about that sadly
Well. Last time this itched me hard I found that there are two official libraries for using Bluetooth. The library facilitating "low power" usage by the Bluetooth unit requires localisation permission. Only real reason I can see for this is that Google discovered more and more people disliked to be tracked by gps so they needed a new method to track us. Solution was to blame it on bt through a low power consumption library.
I'm honestly surprised the drill bit could cut at all. No relief grind after the edge means the edge can't bite into the material you want to drill. I think those gizmos might sharpen bits if you're extremely careful and aware of where the edge of each flute is. But if you're that careful, any bit over about 3mm can be sharpened freehand on a bench grinder or belt sander at least as quickly.
Indeed. I have one and it's workable but you have to know what you are doing. If you just push in the bit and wiggle it randomly it will just ruin the tip for you. What it does for you is provide the right angle. Not being able to tilt te bit yields sub optimal results though. I would still prefer a big stone on a motor but I don't have one so I'm glad I have this.
the digital tape measure is for measuring distances on blueprints like cables-runs in construction. oldschool solution is a pen with a little wheel at the end and a anolog gauge.
A recent favorite of mine - WinApex 268B clampmeter - does 0.1mA resolution on AC current and 1mA on DC, and ridiculously cheap. Super handy for AC mains stuff like checking earth leakage.
The drill was missing its center edge and relief cuts. It will walk all over the place, if you don't pre-drill a hole in significant diameter and it will rub against the material leading to unnecessary heating and chattering. This drill is essentially destroyed.
@@greatscottlab I second the notion and I might even get onboard with the FPGA programming. I think it's going to be a lot of fun and very versatile, after I get over the new 'programming' paradigm.
Drill bit sharpening is a skill you need to learn and it doesn't include just single plane spinning the bit against the stone like you did. That is a horrible "drill bit sharpener".
Pogo pin connectors would be ideal for my model railway lighted, and servo'd buildings. I looked into them a few years ago and did not find them cheaply, so it's time to revisit them it seems.
@@joostluyten_ON3JT If that is an issue, you can simply buy those intended as mobile phone charging connectors with a cut-up USB extension lead. At least when a cable connection is feasible for your use case.
The ruller is actually very useful. It is not a new device, just digital version of analog rullers. Main use case is to measure length of curved lines. I was using this type of ruller when i was working in the stained glass workshop.
I've hoarded a fair few of those DT3 Cable testers. I hot glued a dual coin cell battery pack (with built in on/off switch) to the back and soldered the power wires to exposed PWR and GND wires by the usb socket that would power the device. Super awesome and handy PORTABLE tester that way!
8:27 a developer here, yes you need gps permission for bluetooth to work. it's a requirement for an app to enable bluetooth functionality. I don't know how things have changed in the past couple of years since I haven't played around with bluetooth for about 4-5 years.
There's nothing stopping them from grabbing that data. You'd have to turn location permissions off and then that feature wouldn't work. A tile, Google find my device, etc... would probably do a better job of location anyway.
@@spiikesan "You only need GPS for bluetooth discovery". But isn't that the real problem? It's location, not the method used to obtain it. There are at least 4 ways to get it.
The best drill sharpener, is the "Drill Doctor". Its a lot more expensive... but the ease of use, and the amazing results it produces, is fantastic. Every drill bit I sharpened, made the bits MUCH sharper than brand new, never used, bits. The option to make a "Split-Point" on your Bits, is also fantastic (as they cut much better / faster). The only issue I eventually realized... was that I sometimes broke small drill bits, when I was drilling things. When a very small bit breaks in half... its virtually pointless to be able to Sharpen it... because its often too short to even use at that point. As such... so long as you dont break your bits... you are golden. Of course, larger sized bits are rarely broken.. and as such, they will always be worthy of re-sharpening. If you have to drill anything in thick steel.. you would quickly find out that you can dull / destroy bits in mere seconds worth of drilling. Use some cutting fluid (lubricant / oil) to reduce friction, and help lower cutting temps. A cooling fan, blowing across the bit and surface, will also help. Do not apply too much downwards pressure... as that can dull the bits very quickly. And instead of instantly using a large sized bit... first start out using a smaller bit to drill an initial hole. Then gradually use larger and larger sized bits, to progressively make a larger and larger sized hole. Keep the drill speeds, a bit slower.. and stop often to remove chips / dust from the bit and partially drilled hole (also stopping to cool the bit, and dunking the bit in water, or oil, to cool them down quickly). These will all greatly extend your Bit sharpness / life-span. Once your Bit stops cutting well.. rather than keep drilling.. sharpen them. If a bit keeps spinning, and barely making any progress at all.. the bit is done, and needs sharpening. If you do get the Drill Doctor... I advise actually sharpening all of your new, unused bits... before using them. I found that the factory edges were nowhere near as sharp as what I got from sharpening them with a Drill Dr. As such, you have less chances of breaking bits... because they will cut faster and easier... and so you wont be tempted to put too much downwards pressure on them... which is usually how bits end up breaking. Whether or not you will get your moneys worth out of the Drill Dr., is really down to how often you drill things.. and how much you might choose to spend on new bits. But I will say, that even if I never made my money back on the thing... Its great owning it, for being able to get superiorly sharp bits... that drill much Faster and Easier, than Factory sharpened bits.
When cutting metal, technique is EVERYTHING. have lube, go slow. I'm not kidding. If freehand, go slow enough that you can count the revolutions yourself. It will still cut. In fact, going that slow will ultimately get you thru faster, with bits that can be used again. Go super slow with fluid, when you pull it back to blow out chips, give the drill full speed to help cool the bit faster. Heat death is, ultimately, the end of all things. I'm much more concerned with my drill bits than the universe tho. At least in this lifetime. That being said, treat yourself on your next birthday to a set of molybdenum bits. You'll hawk them like the thermostat but gyatdamn are they a pleasure to use.
I beg to differ. Use the correct cutting speed, with lube and as long as you maintain a consistent feed per tooth the drill will cut nicely. You get a feel for it. Any new lads in the factory always suffer from too low a spindle speed and tickle the material, resulting in a dull drill in seconds. I'll sharpen it, double the speed and plough through a hundred holes without stopping. If you get that telltale squeak then it's time to sharpen.
@@TYGAMatt aye, sounds to me like the difference between free hand and a press, and I was referring to doing it by hand, with a power drill. Someone could take it back further if they want; i love my bit brace but I don't want to bore thru inch thick plate with it. I can if I have too, so there's that. No one's hitting machining speeds with a bit brace. If I'm boring on my lathe I also spin the material faster than I'll run my Makita drill, but that's because when we're on a mill, or lathe, or press we can eliminate variables and then trust the metallurgy.
@@denecity123 IMO, from using my Drill Dr... its highly doubtful that anyone could match the speed, and accuracy, compared to the Drill Drs perfectly guided spindle bit-holder. Not only that... but the drill dr can turn any bit into a perfect Split-Point, in a mere 2 seconds. I could probably sharpen 20 Drill sets with the Drill Dr., in the time it took the best hand-sharpener, to complete ONE set. And my bits would still be more accurate in their edges, and have the Split Point, for even better cutting performance. Also, I believe the Drill Dr. uses a Diamond Grinding wheel, inside of the base. The difference is that the Drill Dr. has a precision rotating spindle guide, that makes a Perfectly aligned edge. You simply rotate the spindle a few times, and its done. And as Ive said... my Drill Dr. sharpened bits cut better than brand new factory sharpened bits. They cut through steel like Butter, after I sharpened them... and the sharpness last FAR longer, than the factory edge.
Thank you Scott. I miss your old opening with the real LEDs. I have to say that RUclips has become messed up as time goes by. Keep up the great content! 😊
I love aliexpress. I use that usb cable tester to test customer cables to troubleshoot their issues. I also got a small vacuum for $2 that i use at my shop regularly for everything.
The car battery monitor is soo cool! I wish we had one that had like a tiny screen you could install on your dashboard, eliminating the need for an app.
They have one that comes with a screen lol. Now im off to look for a version that has longer range so it can ping me at home that my dumb ass left the lights on.
Before people bu the drill bit thing, understand there are different angles on drill bit tips as well as split point drills. This think looks like it would ruin bits that dont match up with it. I would recommend a drill doctor instead. They cost a bit but account for all these variables and can sharpen most twist drill bits.
People buying sharpeners on Ali only have one kind of drill bit, Universal. You shouldn't be able to spin the bit in the sharpener at all. you need to align the cutting face with the grinding wheel and touch the surface then rotate the bit 180 and touch again, The only time you need to grind further than that is if you jammed the bit and broke off a chunk or snapped the end off entirely.
Thanks for the Battery Monitor, this is exactly what I needed to keep an eye on the battery in my car. I'm a Paraplegic so getting a dead battery in my car can be a big problem for me because I require a Wheelchair. This will surely help me to replace the battery when it starts getting weak. Even though I test my battery every 6 months with a manual tester I've had a couple of dead batteries at very inconvenient times. This makes it so much easier to make sure it's in good working order.
A huge benefit is that being discharged (below 10-11V) damages a car battery. So if you can catch it before it gets there and give it a charge fewer batteries needing to be replaced.
Ive had one of these on my car battery for over a year now and it works great in all temperatures. The Bluetooth range is short however ( in the engine compartment covered by the hood , it really shields the signal) so don't expect to see the signal if you are too far away. My car is parked in a driveway close to the house so no issue for me. Amazon Canada price was about $30.
grinding a bit that way will just form a "cone" without a relief angle from the edge. It could be useful for getting a general shape and then adding some relief from the edge some other way. (the cutting /leading edge is the part that contacts the work, you don't want the entire end surface contacting the work.
Include the shipping costs, for example at the connectors. Some sellers decrease the price (to get a better priceranking at Ali) but increase the shipping costs. Turning off an option (for example GPS) in an app, doesn't mean it will not use it at all. Maybe it will turn off the option for a function but the app still have the privilege and permission to use it for something else.
Most of the items on Aliexpress are shipped by Aliexpress nowadays, so it's free for purchases over $10. Very few of the sellers on the site are able and willing to handle the bureaucracy of importing into the EU anymore.
11:57 if you take it apart and replace the wheel for a 3D printed pulley meant for capstan wraps (a loop) you could use it as a distance finder for various projects, where the string (or rather fishing line) is pulled by something to a given distance. In theory, you could affix the tape to a tripod, set the other end of the string on a sprung spool on the same tripod (for ease of use) and then go around a room with a stylus tied to the string, and thus (reasonably accurately) measure a room in a 3D format. Of course, this is just an idea, but the core elements of this device are there. Laser is good, but with the proper 3D print around this device, you could bypass the issues that come with it, which is that you have to work linear measurements into a 3 axis measurement, whereas this can do (basically) the cheap version of LiDAR. Heck, build this properly, and you could make one - that works by string. I see no issues 3D mapping a device by stylus and string.
Problem with that drill bit sharpener is that, drill bits have various angles to them, while 135* is common for HSS, you can find other angles too. Last thing you want is to try and change the angle on a bit.
I wish to have such a video (at least) every week. I understand (I watched your video) it doesn't show all your skills and creativity, but take it as an ecological service: by helping customers test things, you prevent a big loss. It could help you finance expensive projects (with money and time) as, like you said, these require much less effort to make. It looks like a win-win situation.
The digital tape measure I find actually useful when you don't have a wall to bounce a laser off. Like measuring out cables or distances on machinery where you don't have someone at hand to hold the other hand of your tape still.
I'm glad you tested those magnetic pogo connectors, they've been sitting in my cart for a while. Haven't though of any better solution to quickly connect and disconnect power and data lines in parts of a costume.
I also bought that drill bit sharpener, it is absolute trash and the grinding wheel wears out so fast. I bought an electric one from ali called ‘multifunctional electric knife universal sharpener bench’ and it actually works so well. I sharpened 10 hss bits ranging from 8mm to 16mm and it worked better than i expected. I tried doing a chisel and its difficult to maintain the angle because its made to suit all sizes, but some practice led to decent results. It is not a waste of 30€ considering the drill bits over 13mm cost more than that. This is not a paid endorsement!
Thanks for the informative video and the hard work you do 💪 May I ask which Microscope you're using and whether you recommend it? You didn't feature it in your microscopes review video
The reason why it says it's not for hardened bits: The heat created from grinding it will un-harden the suface of the bit, making it go dull faster. Additionally, it removes the relief angle, but at the point your bits were at, it didn't matter anyways. There are more professional tools that can also put that angle back on
The roller tape measure is very useful when working on construction site (I had one similar). There's usualy a scale mode in it that you can adjust manualy to your building drawing scale. That way you can quickly verify the lenght of a wire run or pipe lenght. It's very useful when you are ordering materials and planning a job.
RE the cable tester, I have USB C cables that have only the power pins connected, some with only USB 2 pins connected, some USB 3 pins connected, and some with all data pins connected. I know this because I use a more capable tester that tests all the pins for all the USB connector formats. From Amazon it costs under £20 approximately. Now I know why sometimes devices don't charge or run fast data!
it would be nice if it tested voltage drop at 2 amps or so. the voltage drop is what makes phones kick into slow charging(500ma), very seldomly nowadays it's the chargers fault
@@lasskinn474 The tester uses a CR2032 cell, two amps may be a bit too much! I also have testers that sit in line and measure voltage, current and the internal pull-up resistors (which determine desired current). My understanding is that if there are no data lines then usually the charger will drop into 500ma charging mode. Some of the cables that I've tested have no data lines so the charge is slow. Is this happening to you?
7:07 the weird thing is that once upon a time long long ago a battery voltage meter was not that foreign in a car. I don't understand that with the complex computer systems we have in cars these days this hasn't made a return =l
Mine has one in some sub-menu. However, it is mostly useless. The car's screen is on when the car is running, or when you just turned it off and the battery is fully charged.
I can second the recommendation for the magnetic pogo pins! I use an 8-pin connector on my RC truck for the lights, and it is great for when the body falls off and would normally rip the jst connector out of the light kit controller. And, being magnetic, all I have to do is bring the ends close enough, and it reconnects itself!
Not 5 times more current P=I^2 *R Iwago = 20 To get same power dissipation current would be 20^2 * 0.002 = I^2 * 0.010 0.8 = I^2 * 0.010 I^2 = 0.8 = I^2 * 0.010 = 80 i = sqrt(80) = around 9A BUT this is for same heat dissipation, I just want to remind everyone that relationship here is quadratic. And wago connector can dissipate heat into pretty thick wire, while this thing is small and encased in plastic, i wouldnt use it for anything above 1A because of this
He was calculating for the same voltage drop, not power, but 4A x 40mV = 160mW of heat, it seems like that would be well within the heat it could dissipate. 1A would be a tiny amount of power = 1A x 10mV = 10mW likewise 800mW for the wago connector seems much less than it could handle, the official connectors at least are rated for up to 32A which would be 2W - though I imagine they could handle more heat than that. 32A is likely the maximum practical for the circuits it would be used with. The video also shows him measuring the temperature of the connection, presumably at a higher current.
You should definitelly add a fuse in series with the battery tester. The device provides no isolation and if it fails shorted, your car will burn down.
The tiny wires used on the device and the circuits on the board would make very little heat if shorted. They would pop just like a fuse. No risk of burning down your car. Don't believe me? Look at the thickness of the traces in the board and compare them to the filament in a fuse. which is bigger? Fuses protect the device. This device only draws 0.001 Amps, 7:50. Have you ever seen a 0.001 amp fuse?
I havent used the drill bit sharpener but based on my experience as a metal machinist and having sharpened a LOT of drills by hand, I would say that the problem is not so much the gadget as the inexperience of the user. You cant sharpen a drill by spinning it against a grinding wheel as it ends up with no relief and no 'chisel edge' (the sharp line across the centre web of the drill bit). If you carefully sharpened each flute without spinning the drill you might have a chance. Having said that, it just might be that bad as to be useless.
That battery pack has several issues. EG over-charge is 4.35V but is normally 4.2V and I set mine to 4.0V. Over discharge is way down around 2.4V. 2.5V really is a minimum and I set mine to 3V. OK I only get about 80% capacity but the cells last about 4 times longer so far.
12:00 You've missed the point of this device. It's not intended to measure straight lines; it is used to measure perimeters, distances along random curves _etc._ If you have a map where you want to measure the road distance, you can follow the road lines to measure between required points. Many years ago, we used them (mechanical ones) at a place I worked, for measuring approximate distances for civil engineering projects.
I love the "Hidden Gem" video series, it's helped me find some really useful and interesting items and learn a lot in the process. Thank you very much for continuing to add to this series.
I'm old and an old school non-SMD hobbyist who enjoys your AliExpress videos. Unfortunately, I don't buy anything anymore since I make what I need using an ESP32 and my own web interface programming and never have to rely on other people's spy apps. I still love your videos and would give this FPG board a try since I think it would make a great hardware 4 Channel hardware PWM controller with encoder feedback for my next project.
Those Pogo connectors seem perfect for a OneWire bus. Might be noisy, but there's only one way to test a Pogo connector's data fidelity, lol. Great video.
that 4A magnet connector and the USB tester would make an excellent field testing device. So many dumb cables out there. And the ones that don't have data lines.
I got that cable tester specifically to figure out what micro USB types I had because I have wasted hours trying to do Arduino work only to discover my cable was power only and didn't even have the data lines. I take it to the second hand store with me, along with a usb battery pack, and go through their cable bin to grab cheap cables because I'm always giving them away and installing them in projects.
8:25 for some god-awful reason, Google has programmed Android in a way, that apps can only access your near-Bluetooth devices by allowing GPS. i have to this day not understood WHY, but its normal to have to do that for apps that need bluetooth...
Because someone invented Bluetooth beacons so apps could find out they are near a certain location by listening for them. They were intended for in-store and near-store notifications. In addition, known Bluetooth devices can be used to determine your location the same as known Wifi networks.
I'm pretty sure you're not supposed to spin the bit. You have to carefully align the cutting edge of one flank before pushing it into the wheel and of course you have to grind both flanks equally.
Location access is needed for any radio access. So if you want wifi enabled in the app then you must permit location since location can be reversed from wifi. And Bluetooth can be used as external gps. I assume that is the reasoning.
@@TheHellis nearby devices is different permission from internet and bluetooth and the different levels of location services are different permissions on android as is background location. now if you get granular power to change those on off depends a bit on the device you're using, which is frustrating. I really doubt that company has their own wifi location database. with say samsung mdm api's you can control them all granularly regardless of what's in the manifests too, but you don't get access to those for free, which again is frustrating. there's no real need if you were thinking about the owner of the phone why the owner of the phone shouldn't be able to fix a fake location if they want to - you can do that with a rooted device anyway so apps that depend on it being an actual real trustworthy thing are all flawed and exploited. bluetooth is a separate permission on ios as well. now if you care that they know where you're at or where's your car at that's an entirely another thing then that's just subjective. it is not actually easy for them to monetize that data either 2024 (be it your location or which wifi ap's would be visible at which location). if you're buying such data it's very easy to be sold fake data too nowadays lol. thing is you can make an app like this with the location without having internet, it's not necessary for the function, background location is for you to not need to think about it. it is a feature that you can throw in for essentially free though since it can know when the car was turned off from the voltage if it was connected to it.
2.4V is too low for over discharge protection. Li-ion cells shouldn't go below 2.5V. 4.325 is also high for overcharge. Above 4.25v the excess energy is converted into heat. 6A for overcurrent is fine for some cells and applications, many cells can handle much higher current (10-25A) and the battery holder wouldn't be suitable for applications requiring high currents. But for many uses 6A is more than enough.
Excellent reviews, man! Thanks a bunch! 😃 The battery holder with protection is really interesting... And you can always take the batteries out for charging. It could be great for some projects! Anyway, stay safe there with your family! 🖖😊
I still don't know why 5x less is the same as one-fifth? If the Wago handles 20A and the device under test handles 5x less, then it would be 20A - (5x20A)! That would give a rated capacity of -80A. Perhaps if we were in a black hole or an inverted parallel universe? Other than that I have found Scott's videos very informative and useful.
I've a few questions about the Car Battery Monitor. Can I get the location remotely? Does it require a subscription to get the location of the device? Can it report the location with the ignition off?
Keep in mind the toggles on software could be fake. Just because your app shows it doesn't mean its actually off. Chinese software is often rought with these and you need to take permissions away in phone settings and that should work unless it cracked your phone on install which is also possible to without you noticing.
With the drill bit sharpener, it’s important the grinding wheel is even, no grooves. Pretty sure it wouldnt take many sharpening (since each size sits in the same place) before it got grooves, so the question then is can you buy a bunch of replacement grinder rollers? I learned how to sharpen drill bits on a grinding wheel, and often had to use a diamond bit to flatten the grinding surface.
That cable tester is going to be so useful. I've been doing this with a couple of connectors and a multi meter. For mini USB I have a adapter to go to type A and micro.
I bought that battery monitor. The app is constantly accessing location even when it's turned off and turning off location services results in app stop functioning. Besides that it's useful
I would AVOID those magnetic pogo pin connectors. They are very dangerous in a lot of instances. The magnets cause a very high likelihood of the them accidentally sticking to (and thus causing a short) random conductive metal surfaces. I had one built into a USB cable for a charging a little portable headlight lamp for a helmet. Didn't notice that it had stuck itself to a random metal item on my desk (while plugged into USB power) and came back to a melted cable.
You spade bits (which are amazing for coring out large holes, highly, HIGHLY underrated) can be sharpened with flat file! No need to complicate it! In fact, it's best to NOT complicate it!
I got the cable tester, but it doesn't seem to work. Update edit: It acts a little strange when the cable supplying it with power has a cc pin and a charger that uses it. Otherwise, perfectly fine and quite useful.
How do you sharpen your drillbits, if not with a grinding wheel? It doesn't matter what that grinding wheel is attached to. Or do you just toss used drillbits?
Danke, dass du versuchst tastächliche Hidden Gems zu finden, und nicht wie gefühlt jeder andere Kanal das billigste oder schlechtsbewerteste filmst, weil es häufiger geklickt wird.
Would love to see a follow up on the battery monitor where you use ESP32 to bridge the data to WiFi, you could add it to home assistant to warn you in the night if your voltage drops due to temperature.
The drill grinder maybe works, but how long will it last? It is very important to get the right angle and you need to cool it too or else it will lose the hardening. 7:12 Never use a tool on the positive battery pole when the negative cable is connected to the battery pole!!!
Go to ground.news/greatscott for a data-driven way to stay up to date with tech news and more. Subscribe though my link for 40% off unlimited access to Ground News.
alr
D.I.Y Ebike pleaseeeeee 😭😭😭😭😭😭😭😭😭😭😭😭
@@seancallahanch.8639 I did a "DIY" EBike in the past ;-) Just search on my channel
3:50 - but what board would you recommend for the purpose of finding out which kind of power delivery is supported ?
There is one board from an austrian country that can check that but that was far more expensive around 30 € or so at least for EU buyers.
Hence the question if you have not find a product that does the trick way cheaper then the one sold on amazon ?
thanks
@@typxxilps There are many USB testers online that do that for $20-50, depending on features. Search USB tester.
That drill grinder is no good! It removed the relief angle, meaning the drill will rub and create friction instead of cutting!
Exactly it removed the "Rake" angle.
@@dogwalker666 No. The rake angle runs down the entire length of the bit. And has more to do with the angle that the cutting edge contacts the material. The relief angle is the part that is being ground down by this tool, as well as the center section known as the chisel angle. Grinding off the relief and the chisel angels will render the bit useless.
@@7996hobguy Different terminology for the same thing, I know how to sharpen drills, I was taught as an apprentice. We work mostly with (Food Grade) 316 stainless steel, It blunts drills within a few holes, As long as you don't burn the drill we are constantly re sharpening them, Below 3.5mm starts getting difficult.
I think another problem is, that usually when you have hardened steel the outsided layer is harder, so if you grind it down, you might get a good edge but It will get dull faster because the metal will be softer.
they're crap, even if they did what they say the grindstone wears out real fast and you lose the straight edge between different sized bits.
The cutting edges on the sharpened drill bit look horrible tbh
Well, it did work a bit better afterwards. Maybe we should not expect that great results
It looks not so easy to handle, maybe it's better when you tape it to a surface so it doesn't move
Yeah, I'm not sure that is how drill sharpening works... There is no relief behind the cutting edge!
You can use a finer stone. That one is pretty coarse.
The cutting angle is completely wrong.
As an electronic hobbyist. These videos are perfect for me to know about good modules available saves a lot of time and money. Love your videos. Keep posting ❤
Thanks 🙂
To the issue with the app needing location permissions for Bluetooth:
This is actually a very misunderstood feature. I don't know about this specific app but I'm guessing it wants to discover Bluetooth devices in the area to find the device.
Since someone could technically track you by having a lot of Bluetooth devices scattered around you, this needs the location permissions. On modern devices, this does not require the GPS permission (exact location) though.
Thanks for the feedback :-)
Yes Apps that need permission to use blutooth need to have location permissions. I don´t really like that they implemented it that way but there is nothing we can change about that sadly
Well. Last time this itched me hard I found that there are two official libraries for using Bluetooth. The library facilitating "low power" usage by the Bluetooth unit requires localisation permission. Only real reason I can see for this is that Google discovered more and more people disliked to be tracked by gps so they needed a new method to track us. Solution was to blame it on bt through a low power consumption library.
I came here to say the same thing haha.
@@noldushumlesnurr6169 Bluetooth needs localization permissions because it can be used inherently to locate you.
I'm honestly surprised the drill bit could cut at all. No relief grind after the edge means the edge can't bite into the material you want to drill. I think those gizmos might sharpen bits if you're extremely careful and aware of where the edge of each flute is. But if you're that careful, any bit over about 3mm can be sharpened freehand on a bench grinder or belt sander at least as quickly.
Indeed. I have one and it's workable but you have to know what you are doing. If you just push in the bit and wiggle it randomly it will just ruin the tip for you. What it does for you is provide the right angle. Not being able to tilt te bit yields sub optimal results though. I would still prefer a big stone on a motor but I don't have one so I'm glad I have this.
the digital tape measure is for measuring distances on blueprints like cables-runs in construction. oldschool solution is a pen with a little wheel at the end and a anolog gauge.
or for clothes or fabric, curves of any kind.
@@mice3dguess it could measure body curves quite well!!! 😂
Or for fabric. I have a really old one to measure length while designing clothes and others. Very useful along curves.
Why does everything have to have a battery and Bluetooth though? God I'm old.
@@mice3d for fabric? just use a fabric tape measure not this junk.
A recent favorite of mine - WinApex 268B clampmeter - does 0.1mA resolution on AC current and 1mA on DC, and ridiculously cheap. Super handy for AC mains stuff like checking earth leakage.
Will check it out😉
The drill was missing its center edge and relief cuts. It will walk all over the place, if you don't pre-drill a hole in significant diameter and it will rub against the material leading to unnecessary heating and chattering.
This drill is essentially destroyed.
I would lovvvve to see the FPGA programming series :D
I can put it on my to do list. But no promises ;-)
Something practical would be very sexy
@@greatscottlab I second the notion and I might even get onboard with the FPGA programming. I think it's going to be a lot of fun and very versatile, after I get over the new 'programming' paradigm.
@@greatscottlab I think it might be a popular topic with all the different types of boards available.
@@greatscottlab Yes that would be very interesting please!
Drill bit sharpening is a skill you need to learn and it doesn't include just single plane spinning the bit against the stone like you did. That is a horrible "drill bit sharpener".
Pogo pin connectors would be ideal for my model railway lighted, and servo'd buildings. I looked into them a few years ago and did not find them cheaply, so it's time to revisit them it seems.
Go for it :-)
@@greatscottlab The only "bad" thing I read about it are the short solder pins. How was your experience?
quite a few people are using this exact pogos in a project I'm monitoring, and they're functioning well so far
@@joostluyten_ON3JTthere are ones with right angle connectors, if you straighten them out, there is heaps of room for soldering wires
@@joostluyten_ON3JT If that is an issue, you can simply buy those intended as mobile phone charging connectors with a cut-up USB extension lead. At least when a cable connection is feasible for your use case.
The FPGA board was the hit of this episode! A follow-up episode would be great.
The ruller is actually very useful. It is not a new device, just digital version of analog rullers. Main use case is to measure length of curved lines. I was using this type of ruller when i was working in the stained glass workshop.
I've hoarded a fair few of those DT3 Cable testers. I hot glued a dual coin cell battery pack (with built in on/off switch) to the back and soldered the power wires to exposed PWR and GND wires by the usb socket that would power the device. Super awesome and handy PORTABLE tester that way!
8:27 a developer here, yes you need gps permission for bluetooth to work. it's a requirement for an app to enable bluetooth functionality. I don't know how things have changed in the past couple of years since I haven't played around with bluetooth for about 4-5 years.
Are you referring to iOS or Android? I wonder if it's possible to disable the GPS permission after setting it up.
You only need GPS for bluetooth discovery, not for it to work if already paired.
08:19 app has a feature to show where your car is parked, what's stopping them from grabbing that data through their app?
There's nothing stopping them from grabbing that data. You'd have to turn location permissions off and then that feature wouldn't work. A tile, Google find my device, etc... would probably do a better job of location anyway.
@@spiikesan "You only need GPS for bluetooth discovery". But isn't that the real problem? It's location, not the method used to obtain it. There are at least 4 ways to get it.
The best drill sharpener, is the "Drill Doctor". Its a lot more expensive... but the ease of use, and the amazing results it produces, is fantastic. Every drill bit I sharpened, made the bits MUCH sharper than brand new, never used, bits. The option to make a "Split-Point" on your Bits, is also fantastic (as they cut much better / faster).
The only issue I eventually realized... was that I sometimes broke small drill bits, when I was drilling things. When a very small bit breaks in half... its virtually pointless to be able to Sharpen it... because its often too short to even use at that point. As such... so long as you dont break your bits... you are golden. Of course, larger sized bits are rarely broken.. and as such, they will always be worthy of re-sharpening.
If you have to drill anything in thick steel.. you would quickly find out that you can dull / destroy bits in mere seconds worth of drilling. Use some cutting fluid (lubricant / oil) to reduce friction, and help lower cutting temps. A cooling fan, blowing across the bit and surface, will also help. Do not apply too much downwards pressure... as that can dull the bits very quickly. And instead of instantly using a large sized bit... first start out using a smaller bit to drill an initial hole. Then gradually use larger and larger sized bits, to progressively make a larger and larger sized hole. Keep the drill speeds, a bit slower.. and stop often to remove chips / dust from the bit and partially drilled hole (also stopping to cool the bit, and dunking the bit in water, or oil, to cool them down quickly). These will all greatly extend your Bit sharpness / life-span.
Once your Bit stops cutting well.. rather than keep drilling.. sharpen them. If a bit keeps spinning, and barely making any progress at all.. the bit is done, and needs sharpening.
If you do get the Drill Doctor... I advise actually sharpening all of your new, unused bits... before using them. I found that the factory edges were nowhere near as sharp as what I got from sharpening them with a Drill Dr. As such, you have less chances of breaking bits... because they will cut faster and easier... and so you wont be tempted to put too much downwards pressure on them... which is usually how bits end up breaking.
Whether or not you will get your moneys worth out of the Drill Dr., is really down to how often you drill things.. and how much you might choose to spend on new bits. But I will say, that even if I never made my money back on the thing... Its great owning it, for being able to get superiorly sharp bits... that drill much Faster and Easier, than Factory sharpened bits.
When cutting metal, technique is EVERYTHING.
have lube, go slow. I'm not kidding. If freehand, go slow enough that you can count the revolutions yourself. It will still cut. In fact, going that slow will ultimately get you thru faster, with bits that can be used again.
Go super slow with fluid, when you pull it back to blow out chips, give the drill full speed to help cool the bit faster.
Heat death is, ultimately, the end of all things. I'm much more concerned with my drill bits than the universe tho. At least in this lifetime.
That being said, treat yourself on your next birthday to a set of molybdenum bits. You'll hawk them like the thermostat but gyatdamn are they a pleasure to use.
I beg to differ. Use the correct cutting speed, with lube and as long as you maintain a consistent feed per tooth the drill will cut nicely. You get a feel for it.
Any new lads in the factory always suffer from too low a spindle speed and tickle the material, resulting in a dull drill in seconds. I'll sharpen it, double the speed and plough through a hundred holes without stopping. If you get that telltale squeak then it's time to sharpen.
@@TYGAMatt aye, sounds to me like the difference between free hand and a press, and I was referring to doing it by hand, with a power drill.
Someone could take it back further if they want; i love my bit brace but I don't want to bore thru inch thick plate with it. I can if I have too, so there's that.
No one's hitting machining speeds with a bit brace. If I'm boring on my lathe I also spin the material faster than I'll run my Makita drill, but that's because when we're on a mill, or lathe, or press we can eliminate variables and then trust the metallurgy.
The best drill sharpener is someone who learned and practiced doing it by hand on a grinding wheel
@@denecity123 IMO, from using my Drill Dr... its highly doubtful that anyone could match the speed, and accuracy, compared to the Drill Drs perfectly guided spindle bit-holder.
Not only that... but the drill dr can turn any bit into a perfect Split-Point, in a mere 2 seconds.
I could probably sharpen 20 Drill sets with the Drill Dr., in the time it took the best hand-sharpener, to complete ONE set. And my bits would still be more accurate in their edges, and have the Split Point, for even better cutting performance.
Also, I believe the Drill Dr. uses a Diamond Grinding wheel, inside of the base. The difference is that the Drill Dr. has a precision rotating spindle guide, that makes a Perfectly aligned edge. You simply rotate the spindle a few times, and its done.
And as Ive said... my Drill Dr. sharpened bits cut better than brand new factory sharpened bits. They cut through steel like Butter, after I sharpened them... and the sharpness last FAR longer, than the factory edge.
Your hand writing and diagrams are still the best.
Your hidden gems series is so good! Please keep doing them!
Thank you Scott. I miss your old opening with the real LEDs.
I have to say that RUclips has become messed up as time goes by.
Keep up the great content! 😊
Lack of fuse on that battery monitor is scary.
They are probably relying on the thin tracks burning out😅
Just do a professional job and cut most of the wires off when wire stripping and it's almost as good as an Amazon fuse!
@@unclejohn5012 😂
tbh the fuse depends on you and your needs so its kinda up to you to chose one
Who cares at that price, the device will blow before the battery or anything else.
I love aliexpress. I use that usb cable tester to test customer cables to troubleshoot their issues. I also got a small vacuum for $2 that i use at my shop regularly for everything.
Are you sure the drill sharpener worked? It looked like the cutting edge was ground off!
The car battery monitor is soo cool! I wish we had one that had like a tiny screen you could install on your dashboard, eliminating the need for an app.
They have one that comes with a screen lol. Now im off to look for a version that has longer range so it can ping me at home that my dumb ass left the lights on.
Lol they make very cheap battery monitors you can do exactly that with.
@@Likeomgitznich I will have to do some research!
Dont install without fuse
you mean like .... a normal voltmeter... like from the 1970s. or 80s. yes. keep it simple!
Before people bu the drill bit thing, understand there are different angles on drill bit tips as well as split point drills. This think looks like it would ruin bits that dont match up with it. I would recommend a drill doctor instead. They cost a bit but account for all these variables and can sharpen most twist drill bits.
People buying sharpeners on Ali only have one kind of drill bit, Universal. You shouldn't be able to spin the bit in the sharpener at all. you need to align the cutting face with the grinding wheel and touch the surface then rotate the bit 180 and touch again, The only time you need to grind further than that is if you jammed the bit and broke off a chunk or snapped the end off entirely.
Thanks for the Battery Monitor, this is exactly what I needed to keep an eye on the battery in my car. I'm a Paraplegic so getting a dead battery in my car can be a big problem for me because I require a Wheelchair. This will surely help me to replace the battery when it starts getting weak. Even though I test my battery every 6 months with a manual tester I've had a couple of dead batteries at very inconvenient times. This makes it so much easier to make sure it's in good working order.
A huge benefit is that being discharged (below 10-11V) damages a car battery. So if you can catch it before it gets there and give it a charge fewer batteries needing to be replaced.
Ive had one of these on my car battery for over a year now and it works great in all temperatures. The Bluetooth range is short however ( in the engine compartment covered by the hood , it really shields the signal) so don't expect to see the signal if you are too far away. My car is parked in a driveway close to the house so no issue for me. Amazon Canada price was about $30.
@@StopAndGo1 Yeah I bought one on Amazon too. Love it!
grinding a bit that way will just form a "cone" without a relief angle from the edge. It could be useful for getting a general shape and then adding some relief from the edge some other way. (the cutting /leading edge is the part that contacts the work, you don't want the entire end surface contacting the work.
Include the shipping costs, for example at the connectors. Some sellers decrease the price (to get a better priceranking at Ali) but increase the shipping costs.
Turning off an option (for example GPS) in an app, doesn't mean it will not use it at all. Maybe it will turn off the option for a function but the app still have the privilege and permission to use it for something else.
Most of the items on Aliexpress are shipped by Aliexpress nowadays, so it's free for purchases over $10. Very few of the sellers on the site are able and willing to handle the bureaucracy of importing into the EU anymore.
Shipping cost often depends on where you live though.
2:38 "works pretty well" 🤣🤣🤣 I hope you are not serious. 🤔
11:57 if you take it apart and replace the wheel for a 3D printed pulley meant for capstan wraps (a loop) you could use it as a distance finder for various projects, where the string (or rather fishing line) is pulled by something to a given distance. In theory, you could affix the tape to a tripod, set the other end of the string on a sprung spool on the same tripod (for ease of use) and then go around a room with a stylus tied to the string, and thus (reasonably accurately) measure a room in a 3D format.
Of course, this is just an idea, but the core elements of this device are there. Laser is good, but with the proper 3D print around this device, you could bypass the issues that come with it, which is that you have to work linear measurements into a 3 axis measurement, whereas this can do (basically) the cheap version of LiDAR. Heck, build this properly, and you could make one - that works by string. I see no issues 3D mapping a device by stylus and string.
Thanks for buying all the garbage products so that we don't have to!
Your component storage is awesome. Who makes it?
Thanks. I made the storage myself (kind of). 3D printed them. You can check out the video in which I set up the lab. There I talk about it.
Please keep making this series's videos!
I will give it my best :-)
@@greatscottlab AAA YOU ACTUALLY REPLIED, YOU'RE MY IDOL
Problem with that drill bit sharpener is that, drill bits have various angles to them, while 135* is common for HSS, you can find other angles too.
Last thing you want is to try and change the angle on a bit.
I wish to have such a video (at least) every week. I understand (I watched your video) it doesn't show all your skills and creativity, but take it as an ecological service: by helping customers test things, you prevent a big loss. It could help you finance expensive projects (with money and time) as, like you said, these require much less effort to make. It looks like a win-win situation.
The digital tape measure I find actually useful when you don't have a wall to bounce a laser off. Like measuring out cables or distances on machinery where you don't have someone at hand to hold the other hand of your tape still.
I'm glad you tested those magnetic pogo connectors, they've been sitting in my cart for a while. Haven't though of any better solution to quickly connect and disconnect power and data lines in parts of a costume.
I also bought that drill bit sharpener, it is absolute trash and the grinding wheel wears out so fast. I bought an electric one from ali called ‘multifunctional electric knife universal sharpener bench’ and it actually works so well. I sharpened 10 hss bits ranging from 8mm to 16mm and it worked better than i expected. I tried doing a chisel and its difficult to maintain the angle because its made to suit all sizes, but some practice led to decent results.
It is not a waste of 30€ considering the drill bits over 13mm cost more than that.
This is not a paid endorsement!
Thanks for the informative video and the hard work you do 💪
May I ask which Microscope you're using and whether you recommend it? You didn't feature it in your microscopes review video
The reason why it says it's not for hardened bits: The heat created from grinding it will un-harden the suface of the bit, making it go dull faster.
Additionally, it removes the relief angle, but at the point your bits were at, it didn't matter anyways.
There are more professional tools that can also put that angle back on
I call BS on that drill sharpener. It's not that simple to sharpen drill bits.
If all that's really worn down is the very end, it could be better than nothing. But yes, I agree. A proper drill sharpener would go much further.
It mite get you close but back cut gives you your rate of mat removal it doesn't do any of that
The roller tape measure is very useful when working on construction site (I had one similar). There's usualy a scale mode in it that you can adjust manualy to your building drawing scale. That way you can quickly verify the lenght of a wire run or pipe lenght. It's very useful when you are ordering materials and planning a job.
Wishes! Waiting for a custom 27Mhz long range radio project 😄
6:58 I found it very handy to use one of those USB adapters in a 12V socket that display the current voltage, so you can read it as a normal gauge.
I think you should look up diagrams on drill tip geometries.
RE the cable tester, I have USB C cables that have only the power pins connected, some with only USB 2 pins connected, some USB 3 pins connected, and some with all data pins connected. I know this because I use a more capable tester that tests all the pins for all the USB connector formats. From Amazon it costs under £20 approximately. Now I know why sometimes devices don't charge or run fast data!
it would be nice if it tested voltage drop at 2 amps or so. the voltage drop is what makes phones kick into slow charging(500ma), very seldomly nowadays it's the chargers fault
@@lasskinn474 The tester uses a CR2032 cell, two amps may be a bit too much! I also have testers that sit in line and measure voltage, current and the internal pull-up resistors (which determine desired current). My understanding is that if there are no data lines then usually the charger will drop into 500ma charging mode. Some of the cables that I've tested have no data lines so the charge is slow. Is this happening to you?
what's the tester you're using?
@@alanmon2690 yeah it would definitely need a beefier psu for it.
i guess you worked this out as it's episode 10, but this series is so useful to makers!
7:07 the weird thing is that once upon a time long long ago a battery voltage meter was not that foreign in a car. I don't understand that with the complex computer systems we have in cars these days this hasn't made a return =l
Mine has one in some sub-menu. However, it is mostly useless. The car's screen is on when the car is running, or when you just turned it off and the battery is fully charged.
Numbers and gauges and buttons are scary to the muggles.
I can second the recommendation for the magnetic pogo pins! I use an 8-pin connector on my RC truck for the lights, and it is great for when the body falls off and would normally rip the jst connector out of the light kit controller. And, being magnetic, all I have to do is bring the ends close enough, and it reconnects itself!
Not 5 times more current
P=I^2 *R
Iwago = 20
To get same power dissipation current would be
20^2 * 0.002 = I^2 * 0.010
0.8 = I^2 * 0.010
I^2 = 0.8 = I^2 * 0.010 = 80
i = sqrt(80) = around 9A
BUT this is for same heat dissipation, I just want to remind everyone that relationship here is quadratic.
And wago connector can dissipate heat into pretty thick wire, while this thing is small and encased in plastic, i wouldnt use it for anything above 1A because of this
He was calculating for the same voltage drop, not power, but 4A x 40mV = 160mW of heat, it seems like that would be well within the heat it could dissipate. 1A would be a tiny amount of power = 1A x 10mV = 10mW
likewise 800mW for the wago connector seems much less than it could handle, the official connectors at least are rated for up to 32A which would be 2W - though I imagine they could handle more heat than that. 32A is likely the maximum practical for the circuits it would be used with.
The video also shows him measuring the temperature of the connection, presumably at a higher current.
You should definitelly add a fuse in series with the battery tester. The device provides no isolation and if it fails shorted, your car will burn down.
Have fun finding a fuse that is more sensitive than the PCB fuse included on the board...
The tiny wires used on the device and the circuits on the board would make very little heat if shorted. They would pop just like a fuse. No risk of burning down your car. Don't believe me? Look at the thickness of the traces in the board and compare them to the filament in a fuse. which is bigger? Fuses protect the device. This device only draws 0.001 Amps, 7:50. Have you ever seen a 0.001 amp fuse?
Please do a series with FPGA. Love to learn it with you.
I havent used the drill bit sharpener but based on my experience as a metal machinist and having sharpened a LOT of drills by hand, I would say that the problem is not so much the gadget as the inexperience of the user. You cant sharpen a drill by spinning it against a grinding wheel as it ends up with no relief and no 'chisel edge' (the sharp line across the centre web of the drill bit). If you carefully sharpened each flute without spinning the drill you might have a chance. Having said that, it just might be that bad as to be useless.
That battery pack has several issues. EG over-charge is 4.35V but is normally 4.2V and I set mine to 4.0V. Over discharge is way down around 2.4V. 2.5V really is a minimum and I set mine to 3V. OK I only get about 80% capacity but the cells last about 4 times longer so far.
12:00 You've missed the point of this device. It's not intended to measure straight lines; it is used to measure perimeters, distances along random curves _etc._ If you have a map where you want to measure the road distance, you can follow the road lines to measure between required points. Many years ago, we used them (mechanical ones) at a place I worked, for measuring approximate distances for civil engineering projects.
respect for owning a mazda 🤙
I love the "Hidden Gem" video series, it's helped me find some really useful and interesting items and learn a lot in the process. Thank you very much for continuing to add to this series.
You found some real treasures this time. The battery monitor looks very handy and I love that FPGA board. The IDE doesn't look half bad.
12:06 I could swear he said "I can only wheely see it's use when it comes to rounded surfaces". Nice.
I'm old and an old school non-SMD hobbyist who enjoys your AliExpress videos.
Unfortunately, I don't buy anything anymore since I make what I need using an ESP32 and my own web interface programming and never have to rely on other people's spy apps.
I still love your videos and would give this FPG board a try since I think it would make a great hardware 4 Channel hardware PWM controller with encoder feedback for my next project.
You should look at the rfid things
Pls keep making this video, it's really helpful finding cheap electronic to mess around.
I will try my best :-)
Those Pogo connectors seem perfect for a OneWire bus. Might be noisy, but there's only one way to test a Pogo connector's data fidelity, lol. Great video.
I love this series
Awesome :-)
Welcome to the world of verilog programming! Definately takes some work wrapping your mind around it when you start but so much fun once your do.
that 4A magnet connector and the USB tester would make an excellent field testing device. So many dumb cables out there. And the ones that don't have data lines.
I got that cable tester specifically to figure out what micro USB types I had because I have wasted hours trying to do Arduino work only to discover my cable was power only and didn't even have the data lines. I take it to the second hand store with me, along with a usb battery pack, and go through their cable bin to grab cheap cables because I'm always giving them away and installing them in projects.
8:25 for some god-awful reason, Google has programmed Android in a way, that apps can only access your near-Bluetooth devices by allowing GPS.
i have to this day not understood WHY, but its normal to have to do that for apps that need bluetooth...
Because someone invented Bluetooth beacons so apps could find out they are near a certain location by listening for them. They were intended for in-store and near-store notifications.
In addition, known Bluetooth devices can be used to determine your location the same as known Wifi networks.
I like usb charge cables with no data for charging in public places like airports or malls. You never know who has what in those public charge ports.
I think this series should never end.
I'm pretty sure you're not supposed to spin the bit. You have to carefully align the cutting edge of one flank before pushing it into the wheel and of course you have to grind both flanks equally.
did you check the code of the program? turn off gps could just say it turn it off, it could still be active when you click turn it off
Or maybe revoke the location access of the app altogether
Location access is needed for any radio access.
So if you want wifi enabled in the app then you must permit location since location can be reversed from wifi.
And Bluetooth can be used as external gps.
I assume that is the reasoning.
@@TheHellis nearby devices is different permission from internet and bluetooth and the different levels of location services are different permissions on android as is background location.
now if you get granular power to change those on off depends a bit on the device you're using, which is frustrating. I really doubt that company has their own wifi location database. with say samsung mdm api's you can control them all granularly regardless of what's in the manifests too, but you don't get access to those for free, which again is frustrating. there's no real need if you were thinking about the owner of the phone why the owner of the phone shouldn't be able to fix a fake location if they want to - you can do that with a rooted device anyway so apps that depend on it being an actual real trustworthy thing are all flawed and exploited. bluetooth is a separate permission on ios as well.
now if you care that they know where you're at or where's your car at that's an entirely another thing then that's just subjective. it is not actually easy for them to monetize that data either 2024 (be it your location or which wifi ap's would be visible at which location). if you're buying such data it's very easy to be sold fake data too nowadays lol.
thing is you can make an app like this with the location without having internet, it's not necessary for the function, background location is for you to not need to think about it. it is a feature that you can throw in for essentially free though since it can know when the car was turned off from the voltage if it was connected to it.
I'm speechless after the first section of the video (drill bit sharpener).
2.4V is too low for over discharge protection. Li-ion cells shouldn't go below 2.5V.
4.325 is also high for overcharge. Above 4.25v the excess energy is converted into heat.
6A for overcurrent is fine for some cells and applications, many cells can handle much higher current (10-25A) and the battery holder wouldn't be suitable for applications requiring high currents. But for many uses 6A is more than enough.
Excellent reviews, man! Thanks a bunch! 😃
The battery holder with protection is really interesting... And you can always take the batteries out for charging. It could be great for some projects!
Anyway, stay safe there with your family! 🖖😊
I still don't know why 5x less is the same as one-fifth? If the Wago handles 20A and the device under test handles 5x less, then it would be 20A - (5x20A)! That would give a rated capacity of -80A. Perhaps if we were in a black hole or an inverted parallel universe? Other than that I have found Scott's videos very informative and useful.
I've a few questions about the Car Battery Monitor.
Can I get the location remotely?
Does it require a subscription to get the location of the device?
Can it report the location with the ignition off?
Keep in mind the toggles on software could be fake. Just because your app shows it doesn't mean its actually off. Chinese software is often rought with these and you need to take permissions away in phone settings and that should work unless it cracked your phone on install which is also possible to without you noticing.
You need to keep the drill bit fixed, not rotate it. You need to sharpen the two cutting edges only.
Thanks for useful reviews.
Your English is the best English on the RUclips!
Where are you from?
With the drill bit sharpener, it’s important the grinding wheel is even, no grooves. Pretty sure it wouldnt take many sharpening (since each size sits in the same place) before it got grooves, so the question then is can you buy a bunch of replacement grinder rollers? I learned how to sharpen drill bits on a grinding wheel, and often had to use a diamond bit to flatten the grinding surface.
Hah, the digital measure thingy is actually what I liked the most
That drill is horrific. Drill grinds are multiple angles, not just a spun grind
How is the idea? : making a removable magnatic pogo pin connector for laptop charging.
That cable tester is going to be so useful. I've been doing this with a couple of connectors and a multi meter. For mini USB I have a adapter to go to type A and micro.
The “hidden gems” are satisfying because they’re your most popular videos too 😆
You should do a roundup of the top most useful products you have gotten out of this series!
This series must never end 👍
I bought that battery monitor. The app is constantly accessing location even when it's turned off and turning off location services results in app stop functioning. Besides that it's useful
8:25 the GPS thing seems like the best part
I would AVOID those magnetic pogo pin connectors.
They are very dangerous in a lot of instances. The magnets cause a very high likelihood of the them accidentally sticking to (and thus causing a short) random conductive metal surfaces.
I had one built into a USB cable for a charging a little portable headlight lamp for a helmet.
Didn't notice that it had stuck itself to a random metal item on my desk (while plugged into USB power) and came back to a melted cable.
Do you think you'd do a series just looking into interesting/unusual chips available on the market?
You spade bits (which are amazing for coring out large holes, highly, HIGHLY underrated) can be sharpened with flat file! No need to complicate it! In fact, it's best to NOT complicate it!
Please keep this series going. Could you maybe recommend a more useful laser tape measure next time please.
nice series
Thanks ;-)
I got the cable tester, but it doesn't seem to work. Update edit: It acts a little strange when the cable supplying it with power has a cc pin and a charger that uses it. Otherwise, perfectly fine and quite useful.
How do you sharpen your drillbits, if not with a grinding wheel? It doesn't matter what that grinding wheel is attached to. Or do you just toss used drillbits?
Danke, dass du versuchst tastächliche Hidden Gems zu finden, und nicht wie gefühlt jeder andere Kanal das billigste oder schlechtsbewerteste filmst, weil es häufiger geklickt wird.
Would love to see a follow up on the battery monitor where you use ESP32 to bridge the data to WiFi, you could add it to home assistant to warn you in the night if your voltage drops due to temperature.
I really enjoy the series! I hope there's a part 11 and 12 in the works!
The drill grinder maybe works, but how long will it last? It is very important to get the right angle and you need to cool it too or else it will lose the hardening.
7:12 Never use a tool on the positive battery pole when the negative cable is connected to the battery pole!!!