Make Dumb Electronics Smart for $3
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- Опубликовано: 26 апр 2024
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Make Dumb Electronics Smart for $3
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The only reason those remotes use a 12V is for the range. The RF transmitter section gets the 12V., and the RF IC internally regulates it down to whatever it needs. The quiescent current on these parts are usually is in the sub-microamp range and sometimes zero, as the push button applies power to the IC, and based on which pin has power as it turns on determines what the remote is supposed to do. The 12V battery allows it to operate at lower temperatures, where the battery current starts dropping. Lastly, since the transmitter operates over a wide voltage range (albeit at a diminishing range), the battery life is exceptional, since it can drop down to a few volts before it stops working.
exactly - it looked like a LDO was connected to the 12v rail and then to the 8 pin chip etc.
I was going to talk about longevity as well but you covered that in your last sentence. It also works in their favor for being able to use the cheapest clamshell case available, one that does not have a battery door
This guy remotes
this explains why I thought my remote was giving out cause it worked for some actions but no the light so thought the remote was bad not the battery. Indeed it was the battery.
great explanation, thank you!
esphome is the software/firmware you want.
Especially because you are already using home assistant for other things
Should have taken the motor apart and attached a rotary encoder and have it set the screen to different heights.
@Ajicles I have no experience with projector screens, but I don't imagine it's a common occurrence to only want half of it?
Came here to say exactly this. I built a motorized shade for an inaccessible window in my house using esphome and it took like 5 minutes to configure. Didn't even bother with limit switches, just timed how long it takes to travel up and down, added a delay into the code. Works like a champ.
Ding ding, ESP home is amazing. If you come from a roll your own code world like Bob is can feel weird to not write the code but it’s really the best way to go.
How on earth are we supposed to know who this guy is, and whether or not he likes to make stuff??
I'm not sure exactly who this guy is, but I can say with some small degree of certainty, that he does indeed like to make stuff.
? Seriously?? Just touch on the “I like to make stuff” then press videos or shorts . And it will show you his other content. I hope this helps
@@lannysternburg263 no - not seriously- have you watched the first few seconds of all his other videos?
It’s a mystery
@@lannysternburg263woosh
The wheel on the limit switch is so the trigger mechanism can slide by the switch instead of crashing into it, because 13:05 can crush the switch and cause a malfunction. Use a mechanical switch along side the path of motion, not in the path of motion.
For controlling IR remove devices, I've made a few ESPs around the house with IR emitters. That way instead of hooking up an arduino to existing remotes, I have one arduino control tons of devices in a room.
Yea I was going suggest this, came in super handy we lost the remote to a TV for good. Used a universal remote from another TV, recorded it with an IR sensor, and then programmed that into my ESP with an emitter. Worked better than it had any right to.
Good call!
Any instructions on this?
I actually did the opposite of this to control the LEDs behind my tv. I recorded the input for several unused buttons from my universal remote and programmed them to change the lighting to different colors, as well as choose which section to change (bottom left, top right, all, etc). This way I don't have to pull out my phone if I want to adjust the LED colors while watching tv.
@@akozaro8oh, wow. That's a really good idea. Thank you for bringing that up
Maybe the switch blocking the antenna is more of an issue now that it is running on 3.3V instead of 12V?
It might have reduced the transmit power/range.
Yep, exactly that. 12V is mostly there for the RF being more powerful. So on 12V it would probably not mind the switch. Although it is nice is not blasting trough the whole neighborhood now anymore 😊
That is correct. This is why some of these RF device remotes still use A23 12V batteries.
I wonder what the consequences are if the limit switch doesn't get triggered. Will the motor just burn up in the screen? I'm sure it has some kind of protection.
@@boxxdrmtb It wouldn't burn up but he would have a bigger mess than that to deal with. The screen would continuously unroll forever until it filled his house. Yikes!
@DaveVanderWekke
I have far too many remotes both IR and RF and also an intense dislike for Alexa type go-betweens so I choose to store both IR and RF codes on a single IR Programmable remote control using 433Mhz remote extenders as converters which means I can also use an RF remote on my key chain to control my main IR items.
I've got the same screen and it's adjustable, it's a little screw-turn limiter in the screen housing on the side with the power cable. It's not really obvious just looking at the screen or in the instructions IIRC.
Pushing up on the remote when the screen is going down will stop the screen as well. You could set your routine on a timer and tell it "After 10 seconds, Screen Up" and not need the physical limiter, or have to wire up the stop button.
I was coming to say this. All the tubular screen motors have endstops in them that are either adjustable with a hex key or push-click to set. I worked in technical support for a projector screen manufacturer for 4 years. It was good fun!
I was also thinking about a time limited stopping function, such that you wouldn't need anything physical to trigger where to stop. The main detriment to this is that it would assume a fixed starting point every time. If, for some reason, the initial point started part way down, the time-based approach would not stop at the correct location. Not sure if that could be a problem with this screen but that would be a potential as to why a physical stop trigger was used.
Yep was going to comment the same thing. No need for the limit switch if you have your screen adjustment done. It'll stop where you want it to every time and will automatically disengage the motor.
I think he did a bad job describing the need for the switch, I could be wrong! It seems to me by using the software to control the motor whether a built-in limit on the motor or not he would still have to have the program understand that the job is complete otherwise, it will keep sending the signal and drain the battery.
@@imyourocd the way the projector controls work, you only need to send a single pulse on any of the given buttons. So your smart board could just pulse the up or down button for a quick moment then disengage. The screen's built-in limiter would then stop the screen at the top or bottom.
The smart board isn't really controlling the motor. It's just mimicking a remote button push. The screen's built-in electronics are what are actually controlling the motor.
For those not familiar. ESP32 dev boards are not Arduinos. Yes Arduino has an ESP32 based board. Just pointing this out because when you choose your editor you will need to know what board you have because GPIO pins are not always the same from one board to another.
actually it is really an important thing to know that those are not "Arduinos".
This is extremely similar to how a garage door works. There was a class I took in college about PLCs. One of the assignments was to make a garage door works. There was a switch at the top to stop it from going too far up and a switch at the bottom to stop it from going too far down. One of the objectives in that assignment was also allowing it to stop in the middle and allow it to go to the top or bottom from any position.
I had to do this with only hardware buttons and contacter relais, no software or logic board
Pretty simple latch/unlatch
A much elegant solution is to replace the mechanic switch with a reed relay with a long wire and a magnet embedded on the screen's back and hide this box entirely. There's no need to make changes on software or the esp.
I love how you simplify seemingly ultra complex systems into components. It's something I sometimes struggle with, but I enjoy watching your videos, because they remind me I can do more complicated things if I break them down into smaller tasks.
4:05 I actually enjoy seeing the code. It doesn’t need a line-by-line walkthrough of what and how every little bit works because I get how that would be overwhelming/boring for someone who doesn’t understand code at all. But, I like even a quick scroll through of the code, that I can pause and look through, because, like watching someone’s physical build process, I enjoy seeing how someone else solved a problem, compared to how I might do it, and seeing what tidbits I could potentially use to solve problems in my own projects.
I agree show the code... at the end with a code warning... lol. Id watch if he explains it line by line
he puts the github in the description but i dont even know how to use python with arduino XD
I like the video and enjoyed the process, but 2 things come to mind:
1) using the limit screw on the screen's motor assembly reduces a lot of the complexity of this project
2) Modifying the operation buttons attached to the wall would have made more sense, as you wouldn't have signal issues, and you would still have a useful remote.
no shade though, I always appreciate project sharing. cheers!
Or using a timer to tell when to stop. All valid ideas to solve a problem.
Timer actually is less complicated
@@syedharris4385but would that not be less reliable? What if there’s a little delay in connection and the screen starts coming down late, and the timer ends before the screen is all the way down?
@@makaiwise4609
Hmm...that's a good point. Unless the timer "only" begins when the screen starts to move... which goes back to the idea of "mechanical" solution. I like the idea of the mechanical limit switch myself.
@_pixelpicnic
I agree with the modifying the "wall unit" totally. Keeping the remote completely "wireless" does keep it a practical wireless device as it was intended. But he did say he did not want to totally "destroy" the motorized screen. I do understand that. We have all done it at some point and probably more than once. Remote is "technically" and financially a more replaceable item.
Another possible solution is to use an IR RF smart hub which can mimic the signal sent from the remote
I think this option would be a lot easier
yupe.. was scrolling to search for a comment like this.. using something like Broadlink RM will be more convenient
Flirc is pretty much exactly that, an arm chip with an IR receiver.
6:53 Transformers are for AC voltage conversion, while buck-boost converters are for DC voltage regulation
I loved this video!!! Thank you again for showing us a way to use basic electronics to enhance our lives. I bought the course months ago and just ordered your kit for it. Looking forward to future projects.
Me and my son did something similar with an air conditioner and a heater and a generator. We just used an esp32 IR and RF receiver to get the code then used transmitter to emit it. Works perfectly from anywhere and we still have the remotes in tact.
My favorite kind of ILTMS video. Great job!
Those remote screens usually have a manual setting in them to tell them where to stop. There’s a yellow hex key spot on the left side where the power enters. You can turn that to adjust the stopping point.
It might be that the modified remote wouldn't get that single to stop, unlike a person who will stop pushing the remote button after the operation is complete the software will not have any feedback and continuously be in up or down mode until the battery drains. The limit switch would then be feedback for the software to say cool we are done.
As usual, you have come up with an intuitive idea to solve a “problem”. Bravo.
there was no problem, and the solution is way more complicated than the original remote.
I would have used a reed sensor with the magnet on the back of the bottom of the screen. Then you could have run a very thin cable to the controller, located in a different spot. But that's a personal choice. Cool little project.
Wow! such a contrived solution to a very simple problem, and $3 for hardware is dwarfed by many expensive Engineer's hours needed to implement it. Yes, the screen already should have a limit switch, actually 2 switches - one for up and one for down, with adjustment screws. I have 2 switches in my screen and flat-headed screws to adjust them. But maybe cheapest projectors don't have them.
Further simplification can be achieved by using projector's "trigger" output, which puts 12V voltage when projector is on. In some projectors there is no "trigger" output, but they have something else that can be used, like a USB connector, which will have 5V when projector is on. Many many years ago I made my setup, where I added a PIC microcontroller to listen to the "trigger" signal from the projector and press up and down buttons on the control. I did not sacrifice the screen remote for that setup, as the control box has the power and buttons to hook up a microcontroller to. I did the whole thing within 1 day, including PIC program. it was even before RUclips. These days motorized screens have trigger inputs, so the setup should be just laying some wire from projector to the screen.
hall effect sensor in the window surround with a magnet on the bottom of the screen would be tidy i reckon.
Glad you used a 2x2 to attach the switch to the wall. Us woodworking nerds need our fix. Got the course a while ago looking for the right project to jump in and learn.
This is really cool. I'd love to see a version of this that replaces the remote entirely with SDR. A retrofit for the entire wall controller with built in limit switches/rotary encoder would be cool in that you could use it for other stuff around the house.Also, looking online, it seems like it is possible your current controller actually has limit switch pins that just aren't hooked up to anything...
Those little ESP-32 boards are amazing. I remember working with much larger, more expensive, and much, much less capable microcomputer boards. There was a little Z-80 board I did a lot with back in the day. It cost ~$60, ran at 4MHz, had 32K ROM, 8K RAM, a couple serial ports and 24 bits of parallel I/O, and that was it.
No power-hogging transformer needed. If USB won't power something, just use a LM7805 in a TO-220 package (3 pins).
Also, they already have SmartLife modules that output dry contact closures. Less than $10 per channel.
I used a Shelly 2.5 in roller shutter mode to get rid of the cumbersome controller-box of that identical screen. Whilst beeing a little bit more expensive, it gave me the perks of having a minimalistic footprint on the wall, very easy conversion and using all the advantages that a Shelly 2.5 brings with it: auto calibration and integration into my existing Shelly setup (using the Shelly app and triggering with specific scenes).
Hi Bob, I am a Maker, Engineer, and a Professor on the side. I have way more Arduinos than I am willing to admit to and have several projects that I REALLY wanted to control from my phone but I was really not excited about writing an Android App (though I have done one once). Thanks for pointing me to the WeMo emulation SW. My mind just exploded with ideas on how to use this. THANK YOU!!
Screen goes up.
Screen goes down.
Screen goes up.
Screen goes down.
"You can't explain that!" 😁
Like Frank Howarth putting "Bed goes up/down" on his CNC machine.
OK, Homer.
@@davidbroadfoot1864 You misspelled _mooning gnome_ 😁
I wish you would have started your comment with SPOILER ALERT.
Now I know the ending!
I don't need this idea for setting up a movie room in my house, but I do like how you spelled out what you were doing - even changing it each time. I have a gate that uses IR opening and closing and I am thinking this might work really well. It would allow me to open the gate from anywhere or set up a "as I arrive at the house - open" command.
Im wondering if you’d tried SDR to analyze the signal. With the signal info, you can usually just mimic it via the arduino and a $0.60 transmitter. Combined with esphome, and home assistant (not necessary but highly recommended,) you can control the screen and a ton of other stuff however you like.
That came out awesome! I had been looking for Alexa-Arduino integration for the longest time and now I have it, thanks!
Made something similar to press buttons on my screen remote. The basic idea is the same by using a microcontroller to "press" the buttons. However I did want to keep the original remote usable. So I made a small connector on the back of the remote that has both sides of the up/down buttons (I did not need the stop since my screen is adjustable). If for whatever reason my automation fails I can still just press the original buttons or take the remote out.
I avoided the 12V power issue by creating separate circuits by using optocouplers which are a lot smaller and cheaper than relais.
And I used ESPhome, just because it integrates easily with Home Assistant. It also supports covers so it is natural to control with up/down controls (or speach if you wanted).
When I was doing custom electronics, I used to say 'we still have to case test it'
You experienced why that is necessary. I really like your videos
Relay makes sense for controlling something like 230V. For a 12V button an optocoupler would be enough.
I did something simliar but copied the infrared bursts and added my own IR led to the ESP to act as the remote.
Looks like the same brand screen that I am using. If it is, there are stop limiters already in the housing. They are where the power connects to the screen. Instead of using the external hard switch, my screen can be controlled by the projector. When the projector turns on, the screen goes down. When it gets to the right spot, the internal limiter turns of the screen. The the projector is turned off, the screen goes up. When it gets to the right spot, the internal limiter stops the screen. No need to over engineer something that is most likely already built into the screen and projector.
I do this alot, but I always like to isolate the buttonpresses completely from the buttons I modify and the ESP-device. Using optocouplers makes this perfect. Then I just need 3.3/5V for the ESP and just leave the thing as original as it was. By doing this the ESP and the other thing is galvanically isolated.
Very cool project! I did something similar for my garage door opener years ago. I wired a raspberry pi to a garage remote and used the same switch as you to tell whether the door was open or closed. It ran a little server with a button that let me see the status and open/close it from my phone or computer.
Eventually I decided to make a v2 with an ESP board using ESPHome and integrate it into Home Assistant. This allowed me to also integrate it into my HomeKit so I didn't have to open any apps or go to a webpage. I also used a magnetic switch here so the door isn't rubbing up against a switch directly. Instead of wiring this one to a remote, I used a relay and wired it directly to the screws on the opener.
One thing I noticed is it doesn't look like you're using any flux when you solder. I didn't either at first, but it changed my world when I started. Much cleaner solder connections and you don't struggle as much to get the solder the stick.
Just buy solder with flux core. Works fine and no need to faff with extra flux. Each to their own.
Level shifters are another option to convert 3v3 to 5v or 12v; no moving parts and miniscule power draw.
Tasmota & ESPHome are other code options that work well for this type of project, but I'm not sure how well they integrate w/ cloud services. I keep (almost) all my automation under local-only control.
I used a smart IR device to mimic infra red remote presses...but always love a DIY solution. As a felloe 3d printer i always like seeing a limit switch employed!
IR repeaters are pretty cheap also and allows you to make digital remotes that repeat a copied signal
I see regulator on the remote control board, so obviously it takes 12v from the battery to 3.3 or so.
Wonderful presentation with artful everyday vernacular so non-electronics people could follow. This is what is lacking in 98% of how to electronics videos. MUCH APPRECIATED ⭐️⭐️⭐️⭐️⭐️
Brilliant work, Bob! Really well done! 😃
Stay safe there with your family! 🖖😊
I did something similar to a govee led light strip that only used Bluetooth. I taped the buttons, and the three color channels to preserve the old controls and get more smart features.
Simply set the limits for stopping the screen at the correct height. Usually a couple of button presses in the remote, this enters the set up mode. Then you just need up/down controls. Also some wall mount controllers have 0V contacts inside for integration with control systems.
Love the idea!
I really recommend using ESPhome with Home Assistant for automations like this.
ESPhome allows to configure the MCU using a YAMl file, that can be pretty much copied from the internet.
Also, it's possible to connect directly to the controller and even get the screen position!
So cool! I know a little of that stuff, I used to work for a circuit board company.
This is awesome!!! This type of vid is what makes my Saturday and gets my brain thinking of the possibilities!!
Next, can you and and make your own automated blackout curtains?!?!?! Or atleast pre-made blackouts curtains with a diy smart controller!!!
Routines are the best! I have them to wake up, light up house in the morning or when smart door is unlocked via code! Or using smart things, i added the trigger of a philips hue switch to activate both hues bulbs and a kasa switch!! I also had a routine that would set my Echo studio to a certain iHeartRadio station at a certain time!! The options are endless!!
Bob - I love the occasional Arduino projects you do. Keep em coming!
Another awesome project. I’ve wanted to, but have been procrastinating on signing up for Arduino for makers…this video really shows me a good insight in a way I would use it even more so now I’m definitely going to have to make the time.
As you've discovered - I've also found that a lot of those remotes that use 12v batteries just do so to increase range, often the chips can/will run on 5v (or I guess less) just with a really reduced range, so if you're going to store it somewhere in a nearby location to the blinds... just power it with 5v!
Well done video, thanks!
First time I have seen your channel. Like the explanations and the have a go attitude. I also tinker with electronics
Thanks so much for this vid. Very interesting to me as I have sufficient bases on simple elec and mostly business programming, so not hardware but business process in higher languages.
there are some IR and RF remotes compatible with Amazon and Google assistant avaliable for 15$ on aliexpress
that's the way i choosed for tv, ceiling fans and climate control
Good one! Just one suggestion..
Limit switches need to be installed so that when something goes wrong (and it will), when the device doesn't stop fast enough (or at all) the over-travel doesn't jam into the switch and break it or what is holding it. Install a lever operated switch so that the roller gets pushed from the side. Then when the travel goes too far the switch arm just harmlessly slides along the side. I learned this from years of working on automated machinery and later on my own CNC machines. I've destroyed a few limit switches in my time due to over-travel!
Very cool! I have the same screen, and luckily, my BroadLink RM4 Pro can emulate the RF remote. And it plays nice with Home Assistant. 😄 I’m going to try your method though to tap into the remote for our power adjustable mattress base. 👍🏻
I wonder if having the screen rest on the limit switch for long periods of time is good for the thin metal arm.
I may be wrong, but probably would also be pretty easy to code in for it to go up 1cm on hitting it.
Bob, I have your course and have watched through it. I have the elegoo starter kit as well - only thing I am lacking is time currently. Hope to one day be able to understand and implement cool stuff similar to you. Have a great day.
Good work Bob!
Using 1/4 the voltage to run the controller is probably the reason you had the problem with the enclosure/switch blocking the signal, the 12v just gives it more range with a limited antenna
stumbled upon you...and you're GREAT. Great persona, and really clear explanations. Subscribed. OH,r and I really like all the 'extra' info , like 5v on usb, 12v too much for arduino..etc. Info rich...in a good way. Anticipate my half-formed q's
I did the same with my cheap 100 inch screen 15 years ago and an arduino uno. With an ESP and ESPHome it is now way easier. And a simple transmitter instead of a remote hack.
But did the screen not stop automatically when it was fully down? Never tried a screen that just continued to run until it got stuck. If that is the case, I would prefer adding relays directly to the screen and control it that way. Or add a sensor to male the motor a servo.
Like smoke alarms they run on a lower voltage than the voltage of the battery supplied because they can run for longer before the battery drops below the devices minimum voltage.
Powering the remote at 3.3v most likely impedes the range, hence the sensitivity to switch proximity ! Great troubleshooting on this one, and awesome final product 👍
Screen most likely already has limit switches so it knows when to stop but whether the electronics for that are built into the screen case or the hardwired remote is a question but the reality is that when you decided to go to hard wiring the remote you should have also switched to altering the already hard wired switch leaving your remote fully functional and fully remote.
But of course this was REALLY just an example of how to make something into a smart something and at that you still succeeded 100%.
Interesting did the same from Home Assistant (+ Alexa and linked routines) with an RF playback device.
Or you could use the smart plug and add some relays & limit switches to the screen to make it go up until it's all the way, or if up already, go down until it loses power (either by limit switch or outlet being disabled)
Me high af questioning this whole process to be amazed at the end. Bravo
Those 12v cells seem to be more common in RF style remotes, I think the idea is it's far easier to modulate a strong RF signal with less complexity, by just having a higher voltage to work from than a 3v button cell.
When I modified a remote similar the battery surprised me also!
If I don't remember wrong there is a device of type roller or blind that you could use, and there is no need for a limit switch because you time how much does it take to open and close and that's enough. And you will have only one device, and that's just perfect
I thoroughly enjoyed this, but here are a few improvements I would have done
1. Adding something mechanical is something like this always causes restrictions, and using glue on top of that is even harder to fix if you change something small. So id try to avoid that as much as i could with code.
2. As someone pointed out, pressing up also stops the screen from going down while its going down, thats good coz then you only need 2 buttons. Even then having 3 buttons on the app doesnt seem like an issue.
3. Id rather just add the functionality in the code that if the screen takes 15 seconds (say) to come down or up, the remote just emits that signal for 30 seconds the moment you press up or down. The screen will automatically stop after its length runs out. The signal will stop sometime after. A little change in code will remove the physical button, and largely simplify electronics. Then its better to just add a stop button on the app or use the up button to manually stop it halfway if needed.
4. As someone else pointed out, having one arduino running full time to control multiple ir emmited / receiving devices around the house sounds like a great plan.
Great work either way!
Have you looked for the setting stop screws on one side on the roller inside the housing? setting those correctly wont require pushing the stop button. up is up, down will go down to setting.
Do you like to use teensy microcontrollers and what are your thoughts on advantages/disadvanges vs arduino
Do you hook up the arduino pins to the positive or negative side of the switch to fake the button press? Did you just send an output of high for a second to mimic the press?
Locking relays in the wall unit is the answer.
Power to the screen motor is cut by an n/c relay receiving power, causing the other relay to cut.
Just a Simple analogue logic circuit.
All the components, apart from the relays will be in the wall unit already.
But hey, arduinos are fun.
I just got a Harmony remote and hub with IR blasters. Not fancy, but super cheap on marketplace, and my whole home theatre is automated 😁
I had a similar idea :) nice to see someone had the same thought and actually tried
Hi ! Nice video! I have one question : How do you know which voltage you need to put to the button pad through ESP pins without friyng the remote board? Did you solder to the ground pad or the other pad ?
Sick project! Couple of things I might suggest for the next one:
- i wouldn't solder crimped jumper cables like that! Those things are expensive!!
- esphome is really great and may serve your purposes
- optocouplers are the technically correct way to have two circuits (of this size, doesnt make sense for a relay like you mention at 12:38) with different power sources interact with each other (i know you ended up using usb for everything but this is feedback on the original plan)
Granted, I'm not an electrical engineer but this is just stuff ive learned over the years doing Arduino
Instead of a relay (if you had needed one) you can use a logic level shifter. I used one with an ESP32 to control hundreds of addressable LEDs on a Magic Wheelchair project.
Super cool! Thank you for sharing!
Hey, i'm pretty new to this stuff, how do you know which side of the switch needs to be powered by the I/O Pins? And how do you determine the needed voltage?
it is good to know Tony Stark has a youtube channel teaching good tech stuff
Would love to know what projector screen you're using.
Thank you for making a video on something that was such a well ya, that's how I would do that. It's just I never thought of that before and now I will, thanks to you.
Awesome Video! Subbed and 🛎️ love these DIY channels.
So crazy wish I understood more of this stuff but very cool to watch great video
Excellent video, thank you
Nice hack and video. Another approach would be to hack the receiver unit itself. Then you'd still have your stock remote as a backup. Mahalo for sharing! : )
Or you could probably leave both devices intact, and just hijack the remote‘s IR signal. There’s bound to be a way to let the Arduino send IR and have it learn the right signals.
Hi Bob, would a reed switch and magnet work in this situation too? I guess it would affect the aerial of the transmitter more than the mechanical limit switch but could be a neater solution.
Just use esphome and an IR receiver/transmitter. You could then use a door sensor to know when it's down. No wiring required (m5stack make these plug and play)
Excellent video nice setup!
Don”t you need a second limit switch to turn off the screen after it is fully retracted following the screen up process?
heej bob, nice way to automate this. but one thing, i would add some sort of bracket that guides the screen towards the limit switch at the bottom. because if there is a bit of wind (door closing or something), the screen might move a bit and miss the limit switch
Hah! I was doing this _years_ ago by just using the 12v trigger on the projector plugged into a spare remote. But this is a brilliant idea considering you can pretty much only get ESPs in 5 packs. Got a few of them around!
One of my favorite videos now. :)