What To Do When Your Filament Has METAL In It! - PrintFixFriday 134
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- Опубликовано: 8 июл 2024
- This #PrintFix Friday is a display of defects, from small errors in a 3D model to a shoddy knock-off! PLUS, what to do when a giant foreign object in your filament makes it through quality control! Tune in now!
If you found a piece of metal in your filament, would you keep ordering from that brand? Let us know in the comments!
Go check out the creators in this video:
/ 1773752788574507068
/ z_layer_wider_than_pre...
www.printables.com/model/86169
/ 1773562275716038801
/ this_could_have_been_bad
Links:
@3DPrinty Printables: www.printables.com/@3DPrinty
E3D Revo Patent: e3d-online.com/blogs/news/rev...
Cards:
Bambu Log Files: • What is Inside a Bambu...
Revo High Flow First Look: • Revo High Flow FIRST L...
Choosing The Right Filament: • Choose The Best Type o...
Making Filament At Printed Solid: • Making CUSTOM FILAMENT...
Touring Printed Solid: • From Raw Material to 3...
0:00 Intro
0:53 Bunny Needs More Z Hop: A bunny getting printed on a Bambu gets knocked over.
3:06 Failed and Recovered Print: An almost completed print failed, then resumed printing a few layers later.
4:51 Wider Z-Layer: One of the Z layers on this print is wider than the others for some reason.
8:59 Leaky Knock-Off Nozzle: An E3D Revo clone from AliExpress is off-centered and filled with holes.
12:09 Foreign Object in Filament: A small piece of metal is found in someone's roll of filament.
17:56 Outro
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Look mom! I'm on @3D Musketeers! 😂 Thanks for featuring my fail! It was quite surprising to have the entire part resume printing after such a mishap. I was printing this with Marble PLA filament, which has some black particles mixed in. Maybe these particles caused a clog at some point, leading to the fail.
On a brighter note, I was able to save the print! I cleaned both sides and glued them together. It's a couple of millimeters shorter than intended, but since it's a planter, it wasn't a big deal.
Wow! Super happy that you shared your save!
I had the same exact issue with a similar color (Vintage Rose) from IIID Max. It was my very first roll from my first order (January 2024) from them. I noticed it while I was loading it into my AMS. I emailed them and told them I was worried about putting ANY of the rolls into my printers and the response I got was "I apologize for the inconvenience. Would you accept a refund for the defective roll? The fact that one roll is defective does not mean that the rest of them are defective. If I apply that logic to the business, I would have to throw away all our stock. Sometimes, one spool escapes QC, but not all of them." Because I don't like to waste things, I ended up cutting a section out and trying to use the roll, I ended up getting a clog about 1/3 farther into the roll. A cold pull brought out another huge chunk like this and I could see a few others further down the roll. I now have 10 rolls of this junk that I don't feel comfortable using at all. It wasn't so cheap after all and apparently it was not just 1 roll. I will never buy from them again and advise everyone I can to not buy from them either.
man I am sorry to hear that..
Are you ready to tell them they are better off throwing away all of their stock?!!! >:( I would have!
I was probably the user on Nero3D Discord that prompted that clone Revo purchase. I mentioned that I got a brass one last year off Ali for like $3 US after coupons with the talk of the price cut. Was a case of "let's see the quality of the clones", with my clone brass 0.4mm seeming fine enough for emergency reserve for if I break all 3 of my real 0.4mm ones (2 brass and an ObXidian) somehow. When the price cuts show up in Canadian stores, I don't think I'll bother with the clones ever. They are not making ObXidian nozzles nor are they doing the high flow ones, and with the QC issues at play, they end up too costly to buy if I end up chucking 50% of the brass clones after spending time to inspect them over just trusting E3D's workmanship.
Thank you for pointing out more of IIId max issues. I have a buddy that only gets their filament and then complains that he constantly gets jams and blames his Biqu H2 extruder that I gave him. I told him I had never had any issues with the extruder for the year or so I had it before I gave it to him and that it is the crappy filament he buys. He refuses to believe its the filament because he doesnt have issues with every spool and would rather keep buying cheap inconsistent filament than spend the extra couple dollars to get quality filament (he gets the 10 pack so its like 8-9 dollars a spool). His loss and time on fixing jams every week or two. I just wish he would listen to me so I dont have to keep hearing about his machine jamming constantly.
Just give him a good spool, prove it. You'll spend less on time that way LOL
So in addition to the crappy ass wipe tower you saw, I had another fail. The main MMU3 body prints kept failing on me. Prusa put these square holes in the bottom. It's only for 2 layers. Every single time it would fail to bridge on the mk3 (I printed one of the mmu3 parts in multi-color). So then I thought, PLA supports!!! If I print them separately they won't need a wipe tower. Everything looked good, but I only did 1 layer of PLA. The hole is 2 layers. I thought it would be ok.......nope. Same issue, but not nearly as bad. So then I thought.......surely 2 layers PLA won't pose a problem? NOPE! I got a crash! It's incredible how little it takes. After trying to figure out WTF!?!? someone mentioned the holes aren't necessary. Prusa does this to make it easier to remove from the plate and therefore save a couple of seconds in the manufacturing process. So I just used blender to remove them. Worked perfectly.
A chunk of brass in the filament could harm extrusion hears or the piece that applies pressure against the filament and the gear, I wouldn't be supised if some people see this vid and decide to cold pull that old nozzle with the invincible clog and find a big piece of metal in it
The Bambu printer in the beginning is a P series (P1P with enclosure or P1S). The base plate is the wrong color for an X1Carbon.
I did actually figure this out, however we cut that whole bit out. I noticed the missing fiducial marks.
If by base plate you mean the print bed, that can be any color I guess? I have seen the gold beds on X1's before, but yeah.. There was part of me that wanted to keep it, but the other part said me figuring this out took too long in the video so we cut it for pacing
I had s small piece of brass on a spool of pink Overture filament, like the one you showed, but it clogged the print. Unfortunately, the tip of the metal that rested at the nozzle exit scratched my Prusa MK3S+ PEI sheet beyond repair. A new MK3 flexbed, E3D 0.4mm nozzle, and downtime, was quite a setback! This mate pink is so tuned to my workflow/products that I can't find any alternative.
How long ago was this? Wonder if it was before they switched to Polymaker for production
I work in filament manufacturing its hard to trust a brand when you don't how the filament is quality controlled and what resin(pellets) they use. a lot of brands are not the manufacture of the filament
I would absolutely give the company another chance. It is impossible to remove all opportunities for problems so problems WILL happen. it's how the company deal with them that is what is most important. Far too many people just demand perfection but are completely unwilling, or incapable, of giving perfection back. Bring this sort of thing to their attention. if they tell you that it's not a big deal then they can go pound sand and go out of business. But MAYBE they'll say "We are so sorry. thank you so much for letting us know. We'll take care of this and make sure it doesn't happen again". The place you made the filament at...how do you think they first figured out that putting that tube in place as a last step was a good idea? chances are they had a failure and someone asked "How could we have prevented this?".
Well, with proper protocols, this should not be a possible issue.
On the plus side my wifi has been having issues since October. There was a firmware update where it started to work again just briefly. But then nope. Not even the next firmware fixed it again. So I said screw it. I ordered a 4 pack of the modules on amazon. They are super cheap. I replaced it and instantly the printer has wifi again. So yeah bad ESP module. Probably a warranty thing, but considering little a 4 pack costs I didn't think it was worth bothering. And I have spares!
Read this at first as : "My wife has been having issues since October. There was a firmware update..." and immediately thought "Wow. I'm not the only one with a cyborg wife." Then re-read it to great disappointment.
@@SwervingLemon LMAO!!! That's hilarious.
Well, of COURSE the bunny would fail with a Z Hop problem! 🐰
time to make this friday better
Oh wow, thank you :) That made my day better!!
Watching this as I come out of a power outage, thankfully didn't occur during a long print.
glad it succeeded!
@@3DMusketeers Because I wasn't doing a long print while Maine was getting done in with heavy wet snow in April.
I have standardized on Atomic and Printed Solid.
Love both of those brands, good stuff they make!
Cheap filament just leads to problems. Spend the extra few dollars to get a quality product.
Saw a roll of raptor PLA from makergeek that literally had a mouse dropping encapsulated in the filament.
That company... fully deserved to fail.
I have 2 bad experiences with filament quality. The first was the included mk3 spool. I think the brand was filament PM. In addition to being tangled in the actual sealed bag, just touching the filament I could feel massive variances in thickness. I had numerous prints that looked like crap because the extrusion was inconsistent.
The other one is atomic filament PETG Khaki. I had a good spool of this followed by a bad spool. It's super brittle right out of the bag. It kept breaking on me. And I had to turn my mk4 filament sensor off because it kept triggering it.
Honorable mention to polymaker copper filament. what a pain in the butt that was! Also super expensive. lol I knew it was supposed to be brittle. I didn't know that supports would collapse on me.
Did atomic at least make it right?
@@3DMusketeers I didn't ask. I got the part I needed. It was just more brittle than normal.
Since you talked about cheap filament What’s your opinion on slant 3-Ds goal of $10 filament? Also thanks to your video about valuing your time better I decided to actually make some money when fixing printers at my store by actually valuing my time.
unrealistic. There is just no way, without a TON OF VOLUME that you can get to $10/kg in the states using quality materials. Not in my opinion.
The $10 filament seems to be aimed at bulk sales. With a number of limitations; large spools, limited colors, scheduled orders.
I think they can get there, but not aimed at my needs.
Bought a lot of GST3D a few years back. Constant clogs and pretty much garbage. Sold them off to someone for $100 letting them know the issues I had. Lost $200 or so in that "deal" just in monetary expenses alone.
That metal in filament should not have happened in any circumstance. The filament does not even meet the 0.1 mm guarantee. If you are looking for cheap filament try DevilDesign (from Poland) , AzureFilm (Slowakia), eSun or Sunlu (both China). Sorry, I don't know of cheaper American brands. These brands make descent filament for an affordable price. Filament below $ 15,- / € 15,- per kilo (like Owl filament) is not advisable. Producing a kilo of PLA or PETG Filament will cost about $10,- / € 10,- (without VAT).
ERYONE PETG is cheap but my printer gulped down 2 kilos with little issue.
yeah, there are a lot of cheap brands out there that work
Use 1.75mm nozzles. No more clogs!
1.8mm cht!!!!