I last had to replace my print surface when my Voron 2.4 Z probe got nudged, then my tungsten carbide nozzle (3DMaker Engineering solid carbide) carved into the PEI sheet. Luckily it was just the spring steel PEI sheet that took the damage. Remember, super hard nozzle means a crash WILL chew up your surface. Nozzle was completely unscathed.
For the magnet the best way is to get it hot and peel it or scrape it, glue residue will remain either way, so use some Goo Gone or any equivalent you can find or mineral oil in the case you can't find anything better, apply and wait for the glue to softens and then remove the glue by scrapping, at last give it a clean with IPA to remove any oil residue and to make sure the new magnet sticks.
When I removed the magnet on my ender 3 during its switchwire conversion I heated up the bed and then slowly worked it up from the corner. Used acetone as a first pass for cleaning the glue and then isopropyl alcohol as a final clean
Just found your channel! Thank you! I watched a couple of videos you published and have to say that as far as I can say, I'm totally with you! I subscribed and I'm glad to! Thank you for your efforts, work and time you are investing! Great job! Happy to see more content! Thanks! 🤠
I've fixed a Flashforge Finder 2 that runs a Mk10 hot end that had an issue sort of like that Ender 3. I was getting super weird temperature readings all of a sudden during a print, so I shut it off, took the toolhead apart and found that the glass bead had come out and was flapping around under the shroud. It seems that the glass bead thermistor was thermal-epoxied into what looked like a brass motherboard standoff, and the epoxy had, after about 300 hours, burnt up somehow, allowing the glass bead part to separate from the brass part. So... a new thermistor assembly later, and we were back in business. Interesting problem with the firmware -- thermal runaway doesn't engage on wild temperature swings, but it does if the thermistor isn't there or if the pins are shorted. Needless to say, it doesn't get much love anymore. The possible thermal runaway issue aside, the Voron is a much more capable printer and gets used before the Flashforge. I may end up modding the old girl and putting new controllers in (they're proprietary) and get it running in a safer way.
Let's be a little more accurate and specific: When PTFE breaks down due to heat to doesn't do much release "toxic gasses" as much as it releases hydrogen fluoride gas which when's you breathe it in will form hydrofluoric acid in your lungs. That In and of itself is bad but it will then leach into your bones and literally dissolve them from the inside out and destroy nerves while doing so. I find that telling someone something is bad is rarely effective but if you describe in graphic detail what it's going to do to their body they often pay attention.
I picked up an ender3 clone end of 2020, i have learned a lot fixing and tinkering. But i was looking for a hobby not a tool. Changed the hotend and the board works consistently and quietly now.
I just gave up on properly tuning an Ender 3 S1 Pro because it's given me so much trouble since purchase. Hundreds of hours of troubleshooting, replaced/upgraded numerous parts, disassembled and reassembled, tried custom marlin and klipper firmwares, everything I could possibly think of, but the printer just never reliably stayed tuned. I finally broke and got an X1C and I was able to print a project I'd been struggling with for a couple months on day two of owning it. For every step of tuning and figuring out the new hardware I could read every issue like a book and easily got great results thanks to all those hours of suffering, lol. Despite the trouble I'm not getting rid of the old one, it's absurdly good at .2mm nozzle printing so that's what it'll stick around for!
About the ender. give it a silent board, I will say it’s one of the best upgrade I have done vs money. It not the fastest but not all can have a noisy printer running 24hours where they live.
I am a huge believer in the idea that anyone who owns a 3D printer should take the time to learn how to troubleshoot problems, perform maintenance, and make repairs. It doesn't matter if you just want to press a button to receive prints or if you want to tinker and mod printers until you're blue in the face, you have to learn the basics or hire someone to work on your printer, or your printer will end up in a landfill. This is as true for a $50 used Ender 3 as it is for a Stratasys Fortus 900mc that costs as much as a house. "But the 3D printer is just a tool for my hobby, I don't want the printer to become my hobby." I don't care. If you own a bicycle or a car and your job isn't to run races, you still have to deal with regular maintenance. You have to clean your paint brushes after each use regardless of whether you are a professional artist or just like painting along with Bob Ross. Someone cooking for their family has to wash the dishes just like people working at a popular restaurant. If you can't afford to be without a printer while you fix your issues, fine, go and buy another printer - maybe even a nicer one. You still have to learn the ropes, and to be honest that is something that a cheap Ender 3 is kind of ideal for. Rant about 3D printing education aside, thermal decomposition of PTFE doesn't just make toxic fumes...it produces hydrofluoric acid. HF is one of only two chemicals I fully refuse to use at work (nonferrous metallurgy, and ferrous metallurgy to a lesser extent, does require acid etching samples with HF and mixtures including HF from time to time...the other one I won't touch is the notable contact explosive, picric acid, which has particular uses in metallography). Why? If you get it on or in you, you won't necessarily notice right away. It's technically a weak acid, far less damaging to flesh than something like concentrated sulfuric acid, so sometimes you might not even notice you got it on your skin. The scary part is that it soaks through your skin and muscles, and likes to eat the calcium out of your bones (which is said to be excruciatingly painful). In addition to special gloves, any lab or other facility where HF exposure is a possibility will have calcium gluconate on hand; if you get HF on your hand or something, you daub the calcium gluconate on the affected area so you have time to get to the hospital without having your arm bones dissolved away on the ride over there. You can't smear calcium gluconate on your nasal passages, throat, or lungs, however...this is why I refused to exceed 245˚C at all when my Ender 3 and Sidewinder X1 had PTFE-lined hot ends and why I didn't print for more than an hour or so between 235-245˚C until I upgraded the hot ends on those machines. It's also why new printers with PTFE-lined hot ends are starting to make me mad - we have better technology, it's not that much more expensive up-front, and it's just plain dumb in so many ways that these are still sold in 2024.
i had seen the post of the buckled extrusion and i tought it was cause it went down in z and the nozzle crashed and the gantry twisted cause it was stuck on the piece
budget permitting I figure that ender can get a board swap and an all metal microswiss hot end. First point especially if its current board has issues updating to the latest Ender3 firmware.
@@3DMusketeers yup! Turned out great though. The first one was inverted. And I had to make the frame in prusa slicer. The second one wasn't. But it's cropped. It did include the frame. I'm like I want the whole photo with a frame. Why is that so hard? lol Oh well. I'm actually happy enough with the crop.
Regarding the Ender 3 case: It depends on the will to learn of the owner. If the owner want to learn how to tinker around and to fix an Ender 3 and get the skills for it, it's worth every minute of repair and upgrade. Also I personally would try and love to help and give advices. But if the Ender 3 owner only want to use this as a tool and it would be too much efford for them... the comment to buy a more recent auto calibrating printer makes sense.
Just wondering how people, who require knowledge of 3D printers for using a 3D printer from others, acquired _their_ skills? I doubt they were born as pro 😅 Yes, when the problem hits, it asks for _willingness to learn_ how to solve it, but _behind our screen_ we should not blindly assume others don't have that.
I tend to approach conversations assuming they don't know terms, technical stuff, etc. and if they do them I adjust. No babying and such here, but I would rather come from a point of education than thinking someone knows it all, you know? As for where they get that education, that's the issue. I'm hoping to fix that
Learn to fix it. Don’t be lazy and a more expensive printers just come with expensive problems when they happen and sooner or later it will happen no printer no printer is perfect or error proof.
I last had to replace my print surface when my Voron 2.4 Z probe got nudged, then my tungsten carbide nozzle (3DMaker Engineering solid carbide) carved into the PEI sheet. Luckily it was just the spring steel PEI sheet that took the damage.
Remember, super hard nozzle means a crash WILL chew up your surface. Nozzle was completely unscathed.
For the magnet the best way is to get it hot and peel it or scrape it, glue residue will remain either way, so use some Goo Gone or any equivalent you can find or mineral oil in the case you can't find anything better, apply and wait for the glue to softens and then remove the glue by scrapping, at last give it a clean with IPA to remove any oil residue and to make sure the new magnet sticks.
When I removed the magnet on my ender 3 during its switchwire conversion I heated up the bed and then slowly worked it up from the corner. Used acetone as a first pass for cleaning the glue and then isopropyl alcohol as a final clean
Just found your channel! Thank you! I watched a couple of videos you published and have to say that as far as I can say, I'm totally with you!
I subscribed and I'm glad to!
Thank you for your efforts, work and time you are investing!
Great job!
Happy to see more content! Thanks! 🤠
I've fixed a Flashforge Finder 2 that runs a Mk10 hot end that had an issue sort of like that Ender 3. I was getting super weird temperature readings all of a sudden during a print, so I shut it off, took the toolhead apart and found that the glass bead had come out and was flapping around under the shroud. It seems that the glass bead thermistor was thermal-epoxied into what looked like a brass motherboard standoff, and the epoxy had, after about 300 hours, burnt up somehow, allowing the glass bead part to separate from the brass part. So... a new thermistor assembly later, and we were back in business. Interesting problem with the firmware -- thermal runaway doesn't engage on wild temperature swings, but it does if the thermistor isn't there or if the pins are shorted.
Needless to say, it doesn't get much love anymore. The possible thermal runaway issue aside, the Voron is a much more capable printer and gets used before the Flashforge. I may end up modding the old girl and putting new controllers in (they're proprietary) and get it running in a safer way.
Let's be a little more accurate and specific: When PTFE breaks down due to heat to doesn't do much release "toxic gasses" as much as it releases hydrogen fluoride gas which when's you breathe it in will form hydrofluoric acid in your lungs. That In and of itself is bad but it will then leach into your bones and literally dissolve them from the inside out and destroy nerves while doing so. I find that telling someone something is bad is rarely effective but if you describe in graphic detail what it's going to do to their body they often pay attention.
Man I even went searching and could NOT find what it made.. We found the illness caused by the fumes, but it didnt flow well.
@@3DMusketeers I'm always happy to help scare the young'uns into doing things in a safer manner. lol
I picked up an ender3 clone end of 2020, i have learned a lot fixing and tinkering. But i was looking for a hobby not a tool. Changed the hotend and the board works consistently and quietly now.
Yep, have to have a well defined intention for the goals to match!
I just gave up on properly tuning an Ender 3 S1 Pro because it's given me so much trouble since purchase. Hundreds of hours of troubleshooting, replaced/upgraded numerous parts, disassembled and reassembled, tried custom marlin and klipper firmwares, everything I could possibly think of, but the printer just never reliably stayed tuned. I finally broke and got an X1C and I was able to print a project I'd been struggling with for a couple months on day two of owning it. For every step of tuning and figuring out the new hardware I could read every issue like a book and easily got great results thanks to all those hours of suffering, lol. Despite the trouble I'm not getting rid of the old one, it's absurdly good at .2mm nozzle printing so that's what it'll stick around for!
Sweet jesus that anycubic is done 😂
About the ender. give it a silent board, I will say it’s one of the best upgrade I have done vs money. It not the fastest but not all can have a noisy printer running 24hours where they live.
Yes i also recommend this
Oh yeah.. those older enders were loud still!
For the bed i would either try heating it up and then just pulling it with pliers or maybe using acetone.
For a second I thought you said "we've been doing this for 135 years" lol
Fun Fact: Drilling holes *digitally* does not require the use of safety glasses or gloves!
It's *much* less messy, too...
😎
It wouldn't hurt though ;) lolol
I am a huge believer in the idea that anyone who owns a 3D printer should take the time to learn how to troubleshoot problems, perform maintenance, and make repairs. It doesn't matter if you just want to press a button to receive prints or if you want to tinker and mod printers until you're blue in the face, you have to learn the basics or hire someone to work on your printer, or your printer will end up in a landfill. This is as true for a $50 used Ender 3 as it is for a Stratasys Fortus 900mc that costs as much as a house.
"But the 3D printer is just a tool for my hobby, I don't want the printer to become my hobby." I don't care. If you own a bicycle or a car and your job isn't to run races, you still have to deal with regular maintenance. You have to clean your paint brushes after each use regardless of whether you are a professional artist or just like painting along with Bob Ross. Someone cooking for their family has to wash the dishes just like people working at a popular restaurant. If you can't afford to be without a printer while you fix your issues, fine, go and buy another printer - maybe even a nicer one. You still have to learn the ropes, and to be honest that is something that a cheap Ender 3 is kind of ideal for.
Rant about 3D printing education aside, thermal decomposition of PTFE doesn't just make toxic fumes...it produces hydrofluoric acid. HF is one of only two chemicals I fully refuse to use at work (nonferrous metallurgy, and ferrous metallurgy to a lesser extent, does require acid etching samples with HF and mixtures including HF from time to time...the other one I won't touch is the notable contact explosive, picric acid, which has particular uses in metallography). Why? If you get it on or in you, you won't necessarily notice right away. It's technically a weak acid, far less damaging to flesh than something like concentrated sulfuric acid, so sometimes you might not even notice you got it on your skin. The scary part is that it soaks through your skin and muscles, and likes to eat the calcium out of your bones (which is said to be excruciatingly painful). In addition to special gloves, any lab or other facility where HF exposure is a possibility will have calcium gluconate on hand; if you get HF on your hand or something, you daub the calcium gluconate on the affected area so you have time to get to the hospital without having your arm bones dissolved away on the ride over there.
You can't smear calcium gluconate on your nasal passages, throat, or lungs, however...this is why I refused to exceed 245˚C at all when my Ender 3 and Sidewinder X1 had PTFE-lined hot ends and why I didn't print for more than an hour or so between 235-245˚C until I upgraded the hot ends on those machines. It's also why new printers with PTFE-lined hot ends are starting to make me mad - we have better technology, it's not that much more expensive up-front, and it's just plain dumb in so many ways that these are still sold in 2024.
i had seen the post of the buckled extrusion and i tought it was cause it went down in z and the nozzle crashed and the gantry twisted cause it was stuck on the piece
budget permitting I figure that ender can get a board swap and an all metal microswiss hot end. First point especially if its current board has issues updating to the latest Ender3 firmware.
Yeah I agree here. However, is it worth it, you know?
I'm doing a litho with your favorite: white filament! LMAO. I've never done a litho before.
Lithos kinda need it though
@@3DMusketeers yup! Turned out great though. The first one was inverted. And I had to make the frame in prusa slicer. The second one wasn't. But it's cropped. It did include the frame. I'm like I want the whole photo with a frame. Why is that so hard? lol Oh well. I'm actually happy enough with the crop.
Just apply a new magnet over the old magnet
I guess you could do that, but why?
Regarding the Ender 3 case:
It depends on the will to learn of the owner. If the owner want to learn how to tinker around and to fix an Ender 3 and get the skills for it, it's worth every minute of repair and upgrade. Also I personally would try and love to help and give advices.
But if the Ender 3 owner only want to use this as a tool and it would be too much efford for them... the comment to buy a more recent auto calibrating printer makes sense.
I feel like for a new user anything less than an ender 3 SE is a terrible idea.
Lychee Slicer Pro
For?
that first poster better get to a shower pronto after holding that with no gloves
USE WD40 best way to remove that glue stuff
really?? good to know!!
For the voron he could have crashed it by accident
That's fair, totally possible. I didn't consider that.
Give it away.
That also is an option but just passes the issue to someone else
Just wondering how people, who require knowledge of 3D printers for using a 3D printer from others, acquired _their_ skills? I doubt they were born as pro 😅
Yes, when the problem hits, it asks for _willingness to learn_ how to solve it, but _behind our screen_ we should not blindly assume others don't have that.
I tend to approach conversations assuming they don't know terms, technical stuff, etc. and if they do them I adjust. No babying and such here, but I would rather come from a point of education than thinking someone knows it all, you know?
As for where they get that education, that's the issue. I'm hoping to fix that
Learn to fix it. Don’t be lazy and a more expensive printers just come with expensive problems when they happen and sooner or later it will happen no printer no printer is perfect or error proof.
Can't disagree there. It's a good skill to have however it's definitely a pain to fix those really old enders without issues