Chances are you pay for the labor of loosening-up of the entire exhaust system due to not being able to pull the clutch cover off. Just did this on my 2020 RGS and it was a pain having to loosen everything up. Notice in the video how they had the same problem, but just cut the video and then miraculously the cover was then off? They had to loosen the exhaust, too but didn't show what they had to do.
I love watching your videos and they give me the confidence to do a lot of maintenance on my own so that I don’t get jacked at the dealer because I am an amputee 3/4 of my left leg so I install the Widowmaker on my bike I stopped writing to which broke my heart, but it was the safest option so after 40 years of 12 I am now on three I have let my hair go gray, so I am the granny on three with one leg but I still like to do my own maintenance and the bikes have changed significantly so I needed to relearn some stuff and learn some new stuff and watching your videos has made it exponentially easier for this single one legged old lady to be able to still take care of her stuff so for that, I think you immensely!
Supposed to check the runout with a dial indicator after. The twin cam service manual I have from Harley specifies .078 min release plate movement. Book also states that reservoir fills as clutch wears, don’t over fill. Over filling the reservoir or too heavy fluid in the primary will cause hard shifting. Much love to Ryan and the outlaw bikers for providing solid content and much needed tutorials. Happy riding.
2 person job is must for this. Bike needs to be upright and front wheel turned to the right or brake fluid goes everywhere. As shown in the video, one person for the pumping/draining, one for filling the reservoir. I sucked in a ton of air by attempting by myself. Done in 5 minutes after calling over my neighbor.
I lifted it on center stand. Then the fun began. My 2019 with bassani headers slightly blocked the cover. So i had to peek in and work on the drain nipple. Also had to remove my heat shields to gain another 1/4 inch. That turned out to work in my favor cause I had to do this by myself. My hand pump vacuum had long enough hoses that I could stand up and watch the flow out of the master clutch cylinder. The fact I could only loosen the nipple one half turn worked in my favor by a slower drain hence not running dry or allowing air in. Loosening exhaust mount bolt and flange bolts was useless. Nothing moved. It was all or nothing and I wasn't going to pull the exhaust off to do this.
Great video! Brake and clutch fluid is the most neglected service on a bike. Bosch DOT 5.1 is compatible with DOT 3&4. It has more anticorrosive additives and boils at a higher temperature than DOT 4. Also it has an extended service interval of 3 years. So better performance and longer lasting!
I have a 2018 RG Special with a full Screaming Eagle exhaust. I had to loosen the exhaust to get the transmission cover off to access the bleeder. That was a pain. The rest was easy as you described!
Thanks Ryan and Oscar!! Great video and thank you for doing yet another outstanding step-by-step instructional video!! A couple years ago I purchased the moisture tester after watching your brake flush video and already had a vacuum pump I use to change oil in small engines. At that time my brake system moisture was very high moisture and out of range. I bought my 2014 SGS w/4000 miles on it in late 2017 so it was defiantly time to flush since I'm pretty sure it had never been done, and I am that confident the clutch fluid has not been replaced as well ever. My records show I tested the clutch fluid in spring 18' when i flushed the brake system and it was
Thanks - that's a great video. Now to re-watch the brake video. I just checked with my dealer and they quoted $225 for the brakes alone, saying it's a 2 hour job - BS. I'd just hate to screw up my brakes and clutch - my arms aren't long enough to do it by myself. Edit - just went out to the garage and checked distances from reservoirs to bleed valves - totally doable by myself. May be easier with the slower hand pump Mityvac - less likely to vacuum too quickly and get air in the lines.
I have a 2007 FXSTSSE CVO. It has a hydraulic clutch but a different cover over the clutch actuator. There is a small bleeder valve on the outside of the cover and I am wondering if it is the clutch bleeder valve?
Glad it helped Ride safe & Ride Often! Check out this RUclips Channel as we have a ton of free videos for you! Check out our useful for purchase videos: www.lawabidingbiker.com/buyvideos BECOME AN ECXLUSIVE MEMBER-GET BENEFITS: www.lawabidingbiker.com/patreon Leave a flat donation: www.lawabidingbiker.com/donate Shop in the Official Law Abiding Biker Store: shop.lawabidingbiker.com Subscribe to the Law Abiding Biker Podcast: www.lawabidingbiker.com/app Join our free email club: www.lawabidingbiker.com/emailclub
Well my aftermarket Bance and Hines Power Dual exhaust won’t allow me to remove the access plate. Now I have to remove headers. Gonna try loosening it a bit first. By the way. The MityVac pneumatic pump is awesome. Well worth the money if you are goi g to do the work every two years.
Thanks Ryan. I facing difficulty my clutch leaver. (Harley Davidson softail slim s) make my hand pain during handling riding specially in heavy traffic road. The grip really make me mad. I will follow yr advice. Thanks again.
What if I need to adjust the screw as well. With the cable, you lose in it. And ajust the screw. How does it work with the hydraulic system adjusting the screw
Do you think you could do a 2007 CVO with a hydraulic clutch it is totally different than the hydraulic clutch you're showing in this video thank you in advance
I can attest to the clutch fluid lowering boiling point the wife and I were crossing Wyoming and the air temp was near 100 degrees well when we were in the high elevation. Which lowers the boiling point of water i had no clutch when we stopped it came back and when we got to lower elevation my clutch came back
I'm wondering on how to do this as a one person job. Can't run the pump and fill the reservoir at the same time. Even a hand pump seems difficult to not do too much without introducing air into the system.
JUst did a flush fill and bleed on my new to me 2011 Tri Glide with 2070 miles on it when I picked it up. I don't have a tester but the old fluid looked like amber pee. Time to change it for sure. Hardest part was jacking up the rear to pull the tires and wheels to easily get to the calipers. Good thing too: spec for rear lug nuts is 100 foot pounds of torque. Mine were maybe 60 foot pounds. Mine has the cable clutch: have to lube cable next.
My 2020 SGS is 10 months old and is in for 5K service. Got a call from shop saying my clutch and brake reservoirs were at 3% moisture level, and 4% is the threshold. Normal for age and mileage?
Great video as usual. What you should do is link this video with your brake bleeding video and visa versa. I thought that brake bleed video was extremely useful and especially now that I have a 2017 King with my first ever ABS. Happy riding!
Do you know of any hacks to bleed the system without removing an exhaust system. I use thunder headers on my bike and I cannot remove the cover to the slave cylinder to properly bleed the clutch. One mechanic said he had a hack but woudn't share it with me. Got any ideas?
I replaced my stock bars with a set of 12" on my 2014 SGS, I removed the line going to my hydraulic clutch after I connected it back it engages really quick, how do I adjust it?
My pleasure! Shout out UK!! Ride safe & Ride Often! Check out this RUclips Channel as we have a ton of free videos for you! Check out our useful for purchase videos: www.lawabidingbiker.com/buyvideos BECOME AN ECXLUSIVE MEMBER-GET BENEFITS: www.lawabidingbiker.com/patreon Leave a flat donation: www.lawabidingbiker.com/donate Shop in the Official Law Abiding Biker Store: shop.lawabidingbiker.com Subscribe to the Law Abiding Biker Podcast: www.lawabidingbiker.com/app Join our free email club: www.lawabidingbiker.com/emailclub
The rule of thumb ages ago was three uses of a bottle of brake fluid and then you dispose of the bottle. Have you or anyone tested it before you threw it out? I tried my fancy tester and at best it read 1, within specs. What else is unusual is that I've never read anything from the manufacturer stating to throw out the bottle after one use. Any thoughts on this?
I love your videos. I watch them all the time even if im not doing that particular project. Is there any chance you would put a link for Canadian amazon as well. It’s not that I can’t do it myself, I just wanted to ensure you get your kickback, as I feel this is the least I can do for the amount of money you have saved me and the knowledge I have gained.
Thanks! U betcha!! Ride safe & Ride Often! Check out this RUclips Channel as we have a ton of free videos for you! Check out our useful for purchase videos: www.lawabidingbiker.com/buyvideos BECOME AN ECXLUSIVE MEMBER-GET BENEFITS: www.lawabidingbiker.com/patreon Leave a flat donation: www.lawabidingbiker.com/donate Shop in the Official Law Abiding Biker Store: shop.lawabidingbiker.com Subscribe to the Law Abiding Biker Podcast: www.lawabidingbiker.com/app Join our free email club: www.lawabidingbiker.com/emailclub
If the clutch or hydraulic reservoirs for either start leaking just a small amount afterwards, replace the gasket. It should stop leaking and you won't eat the paint/coating/chrome away.
The brake video has been out for a long time. You can always use the search function on this RUclips channel or the search box on the Law Abiding Biker website to find content. 6+ years of stuff. Here's a link to the brake bleed/flush video ==> ruclips.net/video/xmTTKMeSAgg/видео.html
Master cylinder cap removed? Bleeder could possibly be plugged…see if small, stiff wire (straightened paper clip) will pass through the bleeder, gently!
I just got a 99 heritage softail and my back breaks went out my front breaks are fine however the back have no pressure but in nuetrul the bike is hard to push, and i dont know wats happening.
I bought Lucas 75 90 gear oil for my clutch, it was recommended by an older buddy of mine who has been riding a long time. Should I trash the Lucas Gear Oil and use brake fluid?
Great video. Thank you. I’m doing my bike now. I noticed fair amount of moisture between the rubber and cap. There was also some weeping on the low side of the reservoir. Once again great video. Could you please tell about how I can donate. Ride safe. Al
Very cool and thanks! Super glad the videos are helping. We have many opportunities for support and it's always very much appreciated: Ride safe & Ride Often! Here is a link to a bunch of our useful Free vids: www.lawabidingbiker.com/freevideos Here is a link to some of our useful for purchase videos: www.lawabidingbiker.com/buyvideos Want Answers & Information Fast? And help support us at the same time? Do you like the content we provide? Our patrons get answers to their questions/comments/feedback in less than 24 hrs and are part of our Private Facebook Group. If you are interested in being in this exclusive group you can get all the details at ==> www.lawabidingbiker.com/patreon Leave a flat donation: www.lawabidingbiker.com/donate Shop in the Law Abiding Biker Store ==> www.lawabidingbiker.com/store If you haven't subscribed to the Law Abiding Biker Podcast make sure to do so. Listen in as we talk weekly about issues/items like this & so much more. You can listen on Apple Podcasts (Apple/IOS), Stitcher Radio (Android), or any other Podcast App ==> www.lawabidingbiker.com/podcast Join our free email club at /www.LawAbidingBiker.com/EmailClub. Only relevant content will be sent from time to time. Email club members are the first to find out about free or for sale content are given special coupon codes.
I have a 2018 Harley Davidson road king an recently when I hold down the clutch and release it, it’s making this grinding weird vibration, noise, i’ve been doing my research and haven’t came and seen anything similar but then I found out it’s a hydraulic fluid clutch lever and it’s starting to make sense but I don’t know for sure if that’s the problem if I do a flush and it’s still making that noise. What do you think it could be?
Have you tried this on a 2019 RK? It is a little more involved as one needs to drop the exhaust to get the clutch cover off... way more of a PITA to do... but thank you for the indepth videos, definitely helped me in my wrenching projects.
We haven't yet, but thanks for the info. It will help us when the time comes. Ride safe & Ride Often! Check out this RUclips Channel as we have a ton of free videos for you! Check out our useful for purchase videos: www.lawabidingbiker.com/buyvideos BECOME AN EXLUSIVE MEMBER-GET BENEFITS: www.lawabidingbiker.com/patreon Leave a flat donation: www.lawabidingbiker.com/donate Shop in the Official Law Abiding Biker Store: shop.lawabidingbiker.com Subscribe to the Law Abiding Biker Podcast: www.lawabidingbiker.com/app Join our free email club: www.lawabidingbiker.com/emailclub
My M8CVO also requires loosening the exhaust to remove the cover. I did and it was a PITA! Became a big, time consuming job! I spoke to a Dealer Tech and he told me that they don’t do it! They just suck out the reservoir and refill it and that gets the fluid back in spec for moisture. Sure, but it doesn’t remove all the dirty old fluid. He said just do that once a year and it’ll always be good. Just don’t let the factory fluid go longer than two years when you start it. Seems like it’s not a best practice, but I don’t like removing the headers too often because it’s difficult and risks an exhaust leak at the heads.
Another awesome video thank you for sharing. Quick question I’ve seen a couple videos where they push bleed instead of suck bleed as you did in your video does it matter?
Depends on the bike. a 2018 touring bike has a rear brake reservoir mounted on the frame on the right side. My shop manual says Dot 4 only. If you're going to wrench on your bike... invest in a HD shop manual first.
Great video! Question, you had the bike up on a lift so it was level when you filled the reservoir, If I don't have a lift, and its on the kick stand does it make much difference when filled. I would hate to put the cover back on and squeeze the clutch and not have enough fluid in there.
It all depends on how your controls are positioned on your bars etc. You can fill on the kickstand. If need be, level the bike a little and check fluid level.
Glad it was helpful! Ride safe & Ride Often! Check out this RUclips Channel as we have a ton of free videos for you! Check out our useful for purchase videos: www.lawabidingbiker.com/buyvideos BECOME AN ECXLUSIVE MEMBER-GET BENEFITS: www.lawabidingbiker.com/patreon Leave a flat donation: www.lawabidingbiker.com/donate Shop in the Official Law Abiding Biker Store: shop.lawabidingbiker.com Subscribe to the Law Abiding Biker Podcast: www.lawabidingbiker.com/app Join our free email club: www.lawabidingbiker.com/emailclub
Most likely there is air in the system. It could also be a defective diaphragm or master cylinder. Ride safe & Ride Often! Check out this RUclips Channel as we have a ton of free videos for you! Check out our useful for purchase videos: www.lawabidingbiker.com/buyvideos BECOME AN ECXLUSIVE MEMBER-GET BENEFITS: www.lawabidingbiker.com/patreon Leave a flat donation: www.lawabidingbiker.com/donate Shop in the Official Law Abiding Biker Store: shop.lawabidingbiker.com Subscribe to the Law Abiding Biker Podcast: www.lawabidingbiker.com/app Join our free email club: www.lawabidingbiker.com/emailclub
I have major clutch issues (2009 Fatbob CVO). Bike serviced January 2021, clutch flushed out at that time. It then sat in shed until just now November 2021. Pull clutch in, click into first, the bike wants to slightly crawl forward, but also stall. Use more throttle, obviously crawls forward slightly faster. Very hard to get first, neutral and second, not so bad second to third, but getting down the box almost impossible without the thing stalling at lights. Clutch almost doesn't want to work and lever 1/8 inch from handle bars is like fully out. I have a plastic cover piece like you have Ryan but mine is ovalshape only, doesn't have that top piece that steps out above the oval shape. My bleed nipple looks to be clearly visible and sits above the plastic cover plate you took off and my bleed nipple does not have a cap on it. Do you have any thoughts on the issue? As in, should that bleed nipple have a cover, could it be letting air in? Do you think a flush out with new fluid would solve my issues?
My clutch acts up at high elevation. First thing in the early morning, squeeze and the lever is limp. No clutch disengagement; as if the line is full of air. Did this last year and again this year, only at elevation. In N. Central Texas, no problemo at all. As advised, I bought the tool and checked moisture. Moisture check showed >4%. This evening, I changed the hydraulic fluid using the pneumatic sucker-outer. It would not suck out if the clutch lever wasn't repeatedly squeezed while connected to the spigot and spigot open. This doesn't sound right. Seems like the sucker-outer should have pulled enough vacuum to pull fluid from the reservoir as I replenished. so I pumped the lever and sucked; using almost a full container of Harley hydraulic DOT4 fluid. There's nothing more I can do except to travel back up to high elevation to see if I did any good. And to do that, I'm riding back up to Estes Park next Monday, specifically to see if it's fixed. I have my doubts. I have a new master cylinder on order, but HD has it back-ordered. GRRR. It's the only "unknown" in my clutch system. Should the sucker-outer suck the fluid without pumping the lever? I'm thinking there's something wrong with the master cylinder.
You can use a zip tie to partially depress the clutch lever as you flush the system. You may want to pick up a master cylinder rebuild kit…it’s possible you have some gunk in there someplace that’s impeding the flow.
@@K9RickRet I discovered that the tiny return port was clogged. At least I think it was. Disassembled and installed a new rebuild kit. After doing that, the pneumatic sucker-outer quickly pulled the juice out from the slave cylinder as I kept pouring new juice into the master reservoir. On Monday, a friend and I are traveling to tent camp in Estes Park, specifically to test and confirm that my clutch doesn't need to be pumped up any more when at 8,000 ft elevation. I've convinced myself that my work has fixed the problem (which was that the tiny return port hole in the reservoir was clogged).
U betcha!! Ride safe & Ride Often! Here is a link to a bunch of our useful Free vids: www.lawabidingbiker.com/freevideos Here is a link to some of our useful for purchase videos: www.lawabidingbiker.com/buyvideos Want Answers & Information Fast? And help support us at the same time? Do you like the content we provide? Our patrons get answers to their questions/comments/feedback in less than 24 hrs and are part of our Private Facebook Group. If you are interested in being in this exclusive group you can get all the details at ==> www.lawabidingbiker.com/patreon If you haven't subscribed to the Law Abiding Biker Podcast make sure to do so. Listen in as we talk weekly about issues/items like this & so much more. You can listen on iTunes (Apple/IOS), Stitcher Radio (Android), or any other Podcast App ==> www.lawabidingbiker.com/podcast Join our free email club at /www.LawAbidingBiker.com/EmailClub. Only relevant content will be sent from time to time. Email club members are the first to find out about free or for sale content are given special coupon codes.
Yes sir! Ride safe & Ride Often! Check out this RUclips Channel as we have a ton of free videos for you! Check out our useful for purchase videos: www.lawabidingbiker.com/buyvideos BECOME AN ECXLUSIVE MEMBER-GET BENEFITS: www.lawabidingbiker.com/patreon Leave a flat donation: www.lawabidingbiker.com/donate Shop in the Official Law Abiding Biker Store: shop.lawabidingbiker.com Subscribe to the Law Abiding Biker Podcast: www.lawabidingbiker.com/app Join our free email club: www.lawabidingbiker.com/emailclub
It doesn't make the lever easier to squeeze. The process replaces your fluid to optimize performance. The fluid degrades over time and absorbs moisture. Ride safe & Ride Often! Check out this RUclips Channel as we have a ton of free videos for you! Check out our useful for purchase videos: www.lawabidingbiker.com/buyvideos BECOME AN ECXLUSIVE MEMBER-GET BENEFITS: www.lawabidingbiker.com/patreon Leave a flat donation: www.lawabidingbiker.com/donate Shop in the Official Law Abiding Biker Store: shop.lawabidingbiker.com Subscribe to the Law Abiding Biker Podcast: www.lawabidingbiker.com/app Join our free email club: www.lawabidingbiker.com/emailclub
The video has an edit where they remove the transmission side cover. The cover doesn’t come off without taking the exhaust sheild off and loosening the exhaust pipes from the jugs and underneath the bike all the way back to the bags. Loosen the exhaust from the jugs just a little, you can back the nuts off almost all the way before they come all the way off to wiggle the whole exhaust down a little after you loosen the carriage bolt under the transmission cover and then the Y pipe bolt under the bike in front of the rear tire and then the two bolts that hood the exhaust tips to the bag brace. That’s why the bag is off the bike in the video, because they had to do all of that and they don’t tell you that because they’re 🤷♂️ who knows why. But you’ll have to do all of that to get that little chrome transmission side cover off to access the bleeder valve. The content creator should know better than to lead you guys into doing something that’s way more work than what they show. Pretty wack.
Man I regret picking a 2019 with the hydraulic clutch. Not only can you not get the cover off easily, there's the added service bulletin where all the transmission fluid transfers over to the primary case. What a clusterf*ck.
Here are some affiliate links to tools mentioned (it helps support us):
V8000 Automotive Tune-up and Brake Bleeding Kit
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Mityvac MV6835 Vacuum Brake Bleeding Kit
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Brake Fluid Tester - calibrated for DOT 4 brake fluids
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I only used the sucker . . . not the filler-upper.
You saved me $400+ with your brake/clutch bleed vids. Thank you!!!
Thank you for the video. Can't believe I pay an hour labor to have this done.
Chances are you pay for the labor of loosening-up of the entire exhaust system due to not being able to pull the clutch cover off. Just did this on my 2020 RGS and it was a pain having to loosen everything up. Notice in the video how they had the same problem, but just cut the video and then miraculously the cover was then off? They had to loosen the exhaust, too but didn't show what they had to do.
I love watching your videos and they give me the confidence to do a lot of maintenance on my own so that I don’t get jacked at the dealer because I am an amputee 3/4 of my left leg so I install the Widowmaker on my bike I stopped writing to which broke my heart, but it was the safest option so after 40 years of 12 I am now on three I have let my hair go gray, so I am the granny on three with one leg but I still like to do my own maintenance and the bikes have changed significantly so I needed to relearn some stuff and learn some new stuff and watching your videos has made it exponentially easier for this single one legged old lady to be able to still take care of her stuff so for that, I think you immensely!
Supposed to check the runout with a dial indicator after. The twin cam service manual I have from Harley specifies .078 min release plate movement. Book also states that reservoir fills as clutch wears, don’t over fill. Over filling the reservoir or too heavy fluid in the primary will cause hard shifting. Much love to Ryan and the outlaw bikers for providing solid content and much needed tutorials. Happy riding.
2 person job is must for this. Bike needs to be upright and front wheel turned to the right or brake fluid goes everywhere. As shown in the video, one person for the pumping/draining, one for filling the reservoir. I sucked in a ton of air by attempting by myself. Done in 5 minutes after calling over my neighbor.
😂😂😂😂 shela could done it by her self
Did it with one and just put a block under the kick stand to keep it near center
I lifted it on center stand. Then the fun began. My 2019 with bassani headers slightly blocked the cover. So i had to peek in and work on the drain nipple. Also had to remove my heat shields to gain another 1/4 inch. That turned out to work in my favor cause I had to do this by myself. My hand pump vacuum had long enough hoses that I could stand up and watch the flow out of the master clutch cylinder. The fact I could only loosen the nipple one half turn worked in my favor by a slower drain hence not running dry or allowing air in. Loosening exhaust mount bolt and flange bolts was useless. Nothing moved. It was all or nothing and I wasn't going to pull the exhaust off to do this.
Great video! Brake and clutch fluid is the most neglected service on a bike.
Bosch DOT 5.1 is compatible with DOT 3&4. It has more anticorrosive additives and boils at a higher temperature than DOT 4. Also it has an extended service interval of 3 years. So better performance and longer lasting!
I have a 2018 RG Special with a full Screaming Eagle exhaust. I had to loosen the exhaust to get the transmission cover off to access the bleeder.
That was a pain. The rest was easy as you described!
Exactly. You can see the cut in the video where they had to take the heat shields off then they put them back on to make it looks easier than it is.
Thanks Ryan and Oscar!! Great video and thank you for doing yet another outstanding step-by-step instructional video!! A couple years ago I purchased the moisture tester after watching your brake flush video and already had a vacuum pump I use to change oil in small engines. At that time my brake system moisture was very high moisture and out of range. I bought my 2014 SGS w/4000 miles on it in late 2017 so it was defiantly time to flush since I'm pretty sure it had never been done, and I am that confident the clutch fluid has not been replaced as well ever. My records show I tested the clutch fluid in spring 18' when i flushed the brake system and it was
Rock on Gary!! Thanks you for your ongoing support as a Patron member
Did you have to loosen the heat shields? I have a 2019 Ultra and the side cover won’t slide past the header pipe.
Thanks - that's a great video. Now to re-watch the brake video. I just checked with my dealer and they quoted $225 for the brakes alone, saying it's a 2 hour job - BS. I'd just hate to screw up my brakes and clutch - my arms aren't long enough to do it by myself. Edit - just went out to the garage and checked distances from reservoirs to bleed valves - totally doable by myself. May be easier with the slower hand pump Mityvac - less likely to vacuum too quickly and get air in the lines.
Rock on! Super stoke the videos are helping bikers!!
I have a 2007 FXSTSSE CVO. It has a hydraulic clutch but a different cover over the clutch actuator. There is a small bleeder valve on the outside of the cover and I am wondering if it is the clutch bleeder valve?
My first time flushing the system myself, this video was a Huge help. ✌️
Glad it helped
Ride safe & Ride Often!
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Thanks Ryan I consider this a must do service also
Well my aftermarket Bance and Hines Power Dual exhaust won’t allow me to remove the access plate. Now I have to remove headers. Gonna try loosening it a bit first. By the way. The MityVac pneumatic pump is awesome. Well worth the money if you are goi g to do the work every two years.
Thanks for helping me on my 2009 Roud King Classic.
Thanks Ryan. I facing difficulty my clutch leaver. (Harley Davidson softail slim s) make my hand pain during handling riding specially in heavy traffic road. The grip really make me mad. I will follow yr advice. Thanks again.
Glad it helped!
What if I need to adjust the screw as well. With the cable, you lose in it. And ajust the screw. How does it work with the hydraulic system adjusting the screw
Do you think you could do a 2007 CVO with a hydraulic clutch it is totally different than the hydraulic clutch you're showing in this video thank you in advance
I can attest to the clutch fluid lowering boiling point the wife and I were crossing Wyoming and the air temp was near 100 degrees well when we were in the high elevation. Which lowers the boiling point of water i had no clutch when we stopped it came back and when we got to lower elevation my clutch came back
I'm wondering on how to do this as a one person job. Can't run the pump and fill the reservoir at the same time. Even a hand pump seems difficult to not do too much without introducing air into the system.
JUst did a flush fill and bleed on my new to me 2011 Tri Glide with 2070 miles on it when I picked it up. I don't have a tester but the old fluid looked like amber pee. Time to change it for sure. Hardest part was jacking up the rear to pull the tires and wheels to easily get to the calipers. Good thing too: spec for rear lug nuts is 100 foot pounds of torque. Mine were maybe 60 foot pounds. Mine has the cable clutch: have to lube cable next.
My 2020 SGS is 10 months old and is in for 5K service. Got a call from shop saying my clutch and brake reservoirs were at 3% moisture level, and 4% is the threshold.
Normal for age and mileage?
I see why they prefer the power bleeder. I got the hand pump version and it was a pain. Had to pull the lever a few times before I felt the tension.
Great video as usual.
What you should do is link this video with your brake bleeding video and visa versa.
I thought that brake bleed video was extremely useful and especially now that I have a 2017 King with my first ever ABS.
Happy riding!
Good call. Done
Do you know of any hacks to bleed the system without removing an exhaust system. I use thunder headers on my bike and I cannot remove the cover to the slave cylinder to properly bleed the clutch. One mechanic said he had a hack but woudn't share it with me. Got any ideas?
hi there ...please tell me after flush the oil is there any adjustment to do in a VRSDCX clutch...??or the oil always keep it adjusted???
If I don't have someone to hold the bike upright, can I do this myself on the jiffy stand as long as I have the pump?
I replaced my stock bars with a set of 12" on my 2014 SGS, I removed the line going to my hydraulic clutch after I connected it back it engages really quick, how do I adjust it?
Great as always Ryan. Many thanks from the UK. .......
My pleasure! Shout out UK!!
Ride safe & Ride Often!
Check out this RUclips Channel as we have a ton of free videos for you!
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Say you have a 3 year old bike. How does moisture get into the system if the caps have never been removed?
Moisture gets in regardless of cap removal. You should change for sure after 3 years. You'll have much moisture.
Damn you got the only video on RUclips on how to do this! I hope your monetized and get paid something for it
Did you have to cut that side cover to remove it without removing the exhaust?
just ordered a mityvac through your link, thanks for all the awesome content.
Thanks so much for your support!
How do you get the cover off, you cut away from that… I’ve been wrestling this sucker for a min now..???
What happens when somebody doesn't change the fluid? Will it eventually blow out a seal somewhere? Any body experience this?
I'm new at this so it will seem like dumb question to the vet riders. But how can I tell if my bike has hydraulic or cable clutch? 2015 roadglide
Great video Ryan and company.
TY so much!! Hope it helps a ton of bikers save money and DIY
I have factory 19 electraglide standard. My side cover will not get past the exhaust, Is this normal ? Every video I watch this cover comes right off
Always enjoy your shop vids. Thanks for posting.
Thanks as always.
The rule of thumb ages ago was three uses of a bottle of brake fluid and then you dispose of the bottle. Have you or anyone tested it before you threw it out? I tried my fancy tester and at best it read 1, within specs. What else is unusual is that I've never read anything from the manufacturer stating to throw out the bottle after one use. Any thoughts on this?
Great Vid, Keep up the great work at saving us $$ on servicing our own, Knowledge is Power
Shouldnt ya check the fluid level again after pumping up the system after the flush?
so the bike doesn’t have to be level? On the jiffy stand is good enough?
I heard you have to losen the exhaust to get that cover off
I love your videos. I watch them all the time even if im not doing that particular project.
Is there any chance you would put a link for Canadian amazon as well. It’s not that I can’t do it myself, I just wanted to ensure you get your kickback, as I feel this is the least I can do for the amount of money you have saved me and the knowledge I have gained.
Outstanding video and information, Thanks
HD changed it to every year now!
Another home run gentlemen. Thank you.
Thanks! U betcha!!
Ride safe & Ride Often!
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Thanks as always. Gonna do this this weekend. Merry Christmas.
Happy holidays!
Great video, this will same me so much time and money. Thank You for the EDUCATION.
Awesome video very detailed really appreciate it now I can check / flush mine👍
If the clutch or hydraulic reservoirs for either start leaking just a small amount afterwards, replace the gasket. It should stop leaking and you won't eat the paint/coating/chrome away.
Could you do a brake one next? I really enjoyed it. Shane
The brake video has been out for a long time. You can always use the search function on this RUclips channel or the search box on the Law Abiding Biker website to find content. 6+ years of stuff. Here's a link to the brake bleed/flush video ==> ruclips.net/video/xmTTKMeSAgg/видео.html
Awesome, thank you
hey what about resetting the abs
I cannot seem to get any fluid to come out of the bleeder even with the bleed screw backed way out, any advice?
Master cylinder cap removed? Bleeder could possibly be plugged…see if small, stiff wire (straightened paper clip) will pass through the bleeder, gently!
@cole Wallace I’m having same issue, did you resolve yours?
I just got a 99 heritage softail and my back breaks went out my front breaks are fine however the back have no pressure but in nuetrul the bike is hard to push, and i dont know wats happening.
I bought Lucas 75 90 gear oil for my clutch, it was recommended by an older buddy of mine who has been riding a long time. Should I trash the Lucas Gear Oil and use brake fluid?
I followed your the video and now I don’t have a clutch
Great video. Thank you. I’m doing my bike now. I noticed fair amount of moisture between the rubber and cap. There was also some weeping on the low side of the reservoir. Once again great video. Could you please tell about how I can donate. Ride safe. Al
Very cool and thanks! Super glad the videos are helping. We have many opportunities for support and it's always very much appreciated:
Ride safe & Ride Often!
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Good video what was the moisture probe by
On my 2020 Tri glide I cannot remove the clutch cover without partially removing the exhaust. Stupid!
I have a 2018 Harley Davidson road king an recently when I hold down the clutch and release it, it’s making this grinding weird vibration, noise, i’ve been doing my research and haven’t came and seen anything similar but then I found out it’s a hydraulic fluid clutch lever and it’s starting to make sense but I don’t know for sure if that’s the problem if I do a flush and it’s still making that noise. What do you think it could be?
Have you tried this on a 2019 RK? It is a little more involved as one needs to drop the exhaust to get the clutch cover off... way more of a PITA to do... but thank you for the indepth videos, definitely helped me in my wrenching projects.
We haven't yet, but thanks for the info. It will help us when the time comes.
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My M8CVO also requires loosening the exhaust to remove the cover. I did and it was a PITA! Became a big, time consuming job!
I spoke to a Dealer Tech and he told me that they don’t do it! They just suck out the reservoir and refill it and that gets the fluid back in spec for moisture. Sure, but it doesn’t remove all the dirty old fluid. He said just do that once a year and it’ll always be good. Just don’t let the factory fluid go longer than two years when you start it. Seems like it’s not a best practice, but I don’t like removing the headers too often because it’s difficult and risks an exhaust leak at the heads.
Great VIDEO! That ring is a recipe for disaster though...
What happens when your lever doesn’t disengage how can I fix that?
Another awesome video thank you for sharing. Quick question I’ve seen a couple videos where they push bleed instead of suck bleed as you did in your video does it matter?
IMO, I prefer our method as it assured no air in the system. But you can try to push bleed. Not saying it doesn't work.
One more thing ware is the brake fluid resevoir for the backbreaks and can i use dot 3?
Depends on the bike. a 2018 touring bike has a rear brake reservoir mounted on the frame on the right side. My shop manual says Dot 4 only. If you're going to wrench on your bike... invest in a HD shop manual first.
Great video! Question, you had the bike up on a lift so it was level when you filled the reservoir, If I don't have a lift, and its on the kick stand does it make much difference when filled. I would hate to put the cover back on and squeeze the clutch and not have enough fluid in there.
It all depends on how your controls are positioned on your bars etc. You can fill on the kickstand. If need be, level the bike a little and check fluid level.
Very well explained.
Glad it was helpful!
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Bought the tester. Thanks for the video.
Very cool!
Thank you.
my clutch lever has no pressure when squeezing in. what could be wrong?
Most likely there is air in the system. It could also be a defective diaphragm or master cylinder.
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I have major clutch issues (2009 Fatbob CVO). Bike serviced January 2021, clutch flushed out at that time. It then sat in shed until just now November 2021.
Pull clutch in, click into first, the bike wants to slightly crawl forward, but also stall. Use more throttle, obviously crawls forward slightly faster. Very hard to get first, neutral and second, not so bad second to third, but getting down the box almost impossible without the thing stalling at lights.
Clutch almost doesn't want to work and lever 1/8 inch from handle bars is like fully out.
I have a plastic cover piece like you have Ryan but mine is ovalshape only, doesn't have that top piece that steps out above the oval shape.
My bleed nipple looks to be clearly visible and sits above the plastic cover plate you took off and my bleed nipple does not have a cap on it.
Do you have any thoughts on the issue? As in, should that bleed nipple have a cover, could it be letting air in?
Do you think a flush out with new fluid would solve my issues?
Was you able to remove the "cover" to the slave cylinder? With the exhaust in place?
Yes
Great job 👍 thanks
U betcha!!
So if I click on a link up above for a particular item, it helps you guys out?
If you click through and make a purchase, no additional cost to you, but we get as small commission.
Hallo, I'm from Ukraine/ Tell me please What is the size of the wrench for bleeding the hydraulics. 1/4 large.
On stand or vert
Appreciate the video.
Glad it was helpful!
Ryan great vlog excellent. Be Cool Be Safe🏍🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸
TY Peter!!
My clutch acts up at high elevation. First thing in the early morning, squeeze and the lever is limp. No clutch disengagement; as if the line is full of air.
Did this last year and again this year, only at elevation. In N. Central Texas, no problemo at all.
As advised, I bought the tool and checked moisture. Moisture check showed >4%.
This evening, I changed the hydraulic fluid using the pneumatic sucker-outer. It would not suck out if the clutch lever wasn't repeatedly squeezed while connected to the spigot and spigot open. This doesn't sound right. Seems like the sucker-outer should have pulled enough vacuum to pull fluid from the reservoir as I replenished.
so I pumped the lever and sucked; using almost a full container of Harley hydraulic DOT4 fluid. There's nothing more I can do except to travel back up to high elevation to see if I did any good. And to do that, I'm riding back up to Estes Park next Monday, specifically to see if it's fixed. I have my doubts.
I have a new master cylinder on order, but HD has it back-ordered. GRRR. It's the only "unknown" in my clutch system.
Should the sucker-outer suck the fluid without pumping the lever? I'm thinking there's something wrong with the master cylinder.
You can use a zip tie to partially depress the clutch lever as you flush the system. You may want to pick up a master cylinder rebuild kit…it’s possible you have some gunk in there someplace that’s impeding the flow.
@@K9RickRet I discovered that the tiny return port was clogged. At least I think it was. Disassembled and installed a new rebuild kit. After doing that, the pneumatic sucker-outer quickly pulled the juice out from the slave cylinder as I kept pouring new juice into the master reservoir.
On Monday, a friend and I are traveling to tent camp in Estes Park, specifically to test and confirm that my clutch doesn't need to be pumped up any more when at 8,000 ft elevation. I've convinced myself that my work has fixed the problem (which was that the tiny return port hole in the reservoir was clogged).
Thank You 👍👍
U betcha!!
Ride safe & Ride Often!
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Amsoil everything
Yes sir!
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3:37, you're welcome
An now it’s easier to sqeeze the lever….or what?
It doesn't make the lever easier to squeeze. The process replaces your fluid to optimize performance. The fluid degrades over time and absorbs moisture.
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The video has an edit where they remove the transmission side cover. The cover doesn’t come off without taking the exhaust sheild off and loosening the exhaust pipes from the jugs and underneath the bike all the way back to the bags. Loosen the exhaust from the jugs just a little, you can back the nuts off almost all the way before they come all the way off to wiggle the whole exhaust down a little after you loosen the carriage bolt under the transmission cover and then the Y pipe bolt under the bike in front of the rear tire and then the two bolts that hood the exhaust tips to the bag brace. That’s why the bag is off the bike in the video, because they had to do all of that and they don’t tell you that because they’re 🤷♂️ who knows why. But you’ll have to do all of that to get that little chrome transmission side cover off to access the bleeder valve. The content creator should know better than to lead you guys into doing something that’s way more work than what they show. Pretty wack.
Man I regret picking a 2019 with the hydraulic clutch. Not only can you not get the cover off easily, there's the added service bulletin where all the transmission fluid transfers over to the primary case. What a clusterf*ck.
All that fer just $595,00 dollors.. 😂😂😂
you talk WAY to much ........