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hi I just bleed out my front brake with the classic method pumping the brake and open the valve below, than close the valve and release the brake. one problem. after I replace the oil the front brake it's loose, it doesn't brake anymore. why might be the cause??? help asap
@@iLVCA was going to ask a question myself but like many channels they don't reply back to those in need. I have no front breaks now and no help. I will never buy another Harley got 2 and can't ride either. Harley mechanics are highly needed cause they always say it will take a month, even for just a simple break job oil change and tires. Ridiculous.
Excellent video. Detailed and accurate. One Tech Tip I would like to add. I can’t take credit for this. Learnedd this from Delboys Garage. After nyou bleed your brakes there are still “nano bubbles” in the system. Simply wrap a bungie cord around the brake handle for the front and wrap a bungie around the rear brake pedal to the crash bar and let sit overnight. Next morning remove the bungies and you will have a significant improvement in handle and pedal due to the “nano bubbles” raising up through the system and releasing into the master cylinder. It’s a technique that racers use and believe me, you will be happy with the results. Be safe and ride carefully.
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Thank you for all your videos. They are of great value to all of us that maintain our own bikes because WE care more about our bikes that the person that just works on them but doesn't ride them. I've had Harleys since I was 19 years old and I'm 72 now. I've always worked on my own bikes. I watched your video on bleeding brakes and, as usual, your covered everything necessary to do a great job...but there's one more thing you might try... and pass along if you find, as I did, that the brakes, both front and rear, can be made just a bit better. When you have completed your procedure and are ready to call it a night, wrap your brake handle around the grip, about four turns with a bungie cord and leave it overnight. Wrap the foot brake around the crash bar, again about four turns. When you get up the next morning and release the bungie, you will discover that you have almost twice the brake as you had the night before. Reason: After bleeding or flushing your brakes, there are "nanobubbles" in the line. Pressureizing the line overnight will cause the nanobubbles to rise through the line and escape at the resevoir. Sounds a bit odd but racers have known this technique for years. Be well and be safe out there. Love your content.
A tip for the front brakes: After finishing up, take a rag, string, or rubber band and loop it around the front brake lever and handle bar and gently apply the brakes (not too much) and secure overnight to allow any micro bubbles to rise up into the reservoir.
Because of this video, I picked up an off brand air compressor vacuum system and flushed my front and rear brakes on my new to me 05 Electra Glide Classic. The old fluid was a dark cloudy brown, The front brake level was less than half in the master cylinder. I bought small bottles and threw away what was left over. Thank you very much!
I notice a few comments here regarding the ABS system,you don't need to go to the dealer to flush ABS provided you don't introduce any air into the system if you do then off to the dealer you go,the only thing I do is go for a ride and utilise the ABS system after the first flush and then do a repeat flush,this is done to move the old fluid out of the ABS unit,information came from my local dealer.
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Just bought my FIRST HD. 2009 flhtcu and loving it !! Just reinforcing what YOU already know. You are putting out the most complete DIY projects out. Thank you !!!!
Best "how to" video ever. I like how detailed you are. After watching this video I'm more confident that I can change my own brake fluid instead of taking it to a shop. Thank you for the savings.
Awesome! Love to hear things like this Robert!! That's our mission. Helping as many bikers as we can worldwide. Ride safe & Ride Often! Here is a link to a bunch of our useful Free vids: www.lawabidingbiker.com/freevideos Here is a link to some of our useful for purchase videos: www.lawabidingbiker.com/buyvideos Want Answers & Information Fast? And help support us at the same time? Do you like the content we provide? Our patrons get answers to their questions/comments/feedback in less than 24 hrs and are part of our Private Facebook Group. If you are interested in being in this exclusive group you can get all the details at ==> www.lawabidingbiker.com/patreon If you haven't subscribed to the Law Abiding Biker Podcast make sure to do so. Listen in as we talk weekly about issues/items like this & so much more. You can listen on iTunes (Apple/IOS), Stitcher Radio (Android), or any other Podcast App ==> www.lawabidingbiker.com/podcast Join our free email club at /www.LawAbidingBiker.com/EmailClub. Only relevant content will be sent from time to time. Email club members are the first to find out about free or for sale content are given special coupon codes.
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Couldn’t believe it but the brake fluid reservoir in my 06 FLH froze in the winter and cracked the reservoir cover . Fluid ended up all over the side of my gas tank while in storage. I learned my lesson.
Thank you so much for making this video. I live in Bahrain and a bunch of us Harley riders (all women) are attending a workshop on basic maintenance and service for our Harleys and your video is awesome! I shared it with the group.
What about the ABS pump module? Isn't there fluid trapped in there (as well as moisture build up)? Does this method you are using somehow allow for that fluid to be released and replaced with fresh fluid?
The abs module needs to be actuated via a scan tool or using the abs actively om your motorcycle to cycle any air or moisture out of there. I was dissapointed @Ryan didnt address this as well :/ the rest is good info.
Regarding changing/flushing brake fluid every two years - You change brake fluid because the fluid in the caliper near the brake pads gets hot and breaks down. The brake fluid that breaks down due to caliper heat will sludge up and this sludge and will seize the caliper piston. That's why calipers seize. Heat from the brakes, not time or water. Thank you for the video!
This is one of those issues that divides people in a passionate way. Prior to ABS brake flushing was a task that any DIYer could do on their bike. But ABS introduced a solenoid/valve, subject to corrosion and consequent failure. The motor company maintains that to flush the brakes entirely you have to use Digital Technician to cycle the valve while flushing the system to completely flush. My dealer charges an hour, other posters have mentioned a half hour. The motor company is backed up by their knowledgeable engineers, and their highly conservative product liability legal advisers and probably a senior management highly attuned to profit maximization. Then we have a plethora of social media commentators, including Ryan, that assure us that you too can DIY this procedure. And he may be right. I honestly do not know. But having had an accident where I lowsided my FLHRC, and ABS might have prevented said accident, I want to make sure that the ABS always works on my replacement FLHTCU. You pays (or not) your money, but you ALWAYS takes your chances!
My Harley rear brake locks up after short ride. There must be tests to isolate brake cylinder, line or caliper. Lots of opinions, no answers. Even J&P Cycles is guessing. You could really make my day!!
Ryan, this is an excellent video you did everything 100% right and a I hope this helps other bikers. I was with a group in Virginia mountains and my buddy lost his rear brake going up the mountain and it was because of never checking brake fluid.
Great and informative video. One thing I didn't hear mentioned is: Inspect the caps of the both brake and clutch resivours for any signs of corrosion or blistering paint. This is a tell tail sign that the seal is bad. The seal replaced with a new cap from HD. Any signs of leaking from the caps is not good!
Thanks! We appreciate the added info. Ride safe & Ride Often! Here is a link to a bunch of our useful Free vids: www.lawabidingbiker.com/freevideos Here is a link to some of our useful for purchase videos: www.lawabidingbiker.com/buyvideos Want Answers & Information Fast? And help support us at the same time? Do you like the content we provide? Our patrons get answers to their questions/comments/feedback in less than 24 hrs and are part of our Private Facebook Group. If you are interested in being in this exclusive group you can get all the details at ==> www.lawabidingbiker.com/patreon If you haven't subscribed to the Law Abiding Biker Podcast make sure to do so. Listen in as we talk weekly about issues/items like this & so much more. You can listen on iTunes (Apple/IOS), Stitcher Radio (Android), or any other Podcast App ==> www.lawabidingbiker.com/podcast Join our free email club at /www.LawAbidingBiker.com/EmailClub. Only relevant content will be sent from time to time. Email club members are the first to find out about free or for sale content are given special coupon codes.
Great videos man You saved me mega$$ with your videos I’m from Canada so it’s a bit pricy here at the dealers your content is awesome it’s clear and easy to follow keep up the great work 🇨🇦
Ryan great video on flush and bleed brakes. The reservoir caps ONLY can be wash out with plain water and then dried. Plain water will clean off brake fluid. Even after you put the caps back on a with a wet rag wipe around the cap. If you are with other bikers at a show look at some bikes the caps have corrosion where it meets the reservoir. Be Cool and Ride Safe.🇺🇸🏍
Wait, you wash the cap with water? I thought the whole idea was to avoid moisture, how do you wash it out without breaking the black seal (inside of cap, the thing with all those lumpy rectangles) and secondly how do you dry it out (method) and know it's completely dry and you're not adding moisture back into the system?
I always cycle my ABS module after a flush then flush again. Merely flushing the brakes does not move fluid through the ABS module. I just did a video on it while I was chasing down an ABS light issue.
Just drove 20 miles to the local store to get brake fluid in 20 miles back home. Didn't know I needed to buy a pump in a vacuum. Wish I could watch the whole damn video first
Thanks for the video. I've done it the past before but this was a good refresher. Funny thing is in the last 6 years I haven't kept a bike long enough to do the 2 year flush but my bike now needs it. Deuces ✌
Mine has ABS. I read that the motor company maintains that to flush the brakes entirely you have to use Digital Technician to cycle the valve while flushing the system to completely flush. Is this the case?
Well..its only me. best friend passed away and he usually was the guiding force for me on my Harley. Learned a lot from him. Now I have to figure out how to do this again without damaging paint and/or finish. Don't have a compressor-just a hand powered unit purchased from Advanced Auto.
Many thanks for all the videos that you publish. I'm addicted. Purchased the brake fluid tester through your link (as well as the Mitey-Vac). When I tested my fluid, the meter went immediately to RED. Probably original fluid - 2013 Street Glide - just never had any issues so never thought I needed to flush. Will be flushed DIY as soon as possible. Keep up the good work.
Great video... just finished replacing the brake pads on my Road King.. I was surprised to find that there was still a lot of life left on the pads. Been riding awhile and didn’t realize I needed to flush out the old fluid every two years. Last time I replaced the pads and bled the brakes was a few years ago which explains why they felt so spongey... Kinda kicking myself in the ass now realizing that all I really needed to do was flush the old fluid... oh well, at least I know I won’t be needing new brake pads on the front for awhile! 😛 So I went ahead and used the manual style mighty vac and followed the instructions in your handy video. Brakes work great... no more sponginess. Wondering if I still need to build up the pressure in the lines using the lever and crack the bleeder the old school way afterwards for good measure? 👍
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Great video, I’ve done the same procedure with a hand held mity vac. Only difference I was Leary about sucking as much fluid initially out of the MC’s. Logic tells me if you suck it “all” out of the MC, you can’t help but introduce air into the system pouring new fluid into a completely empty MC? If any air gets into the system you can bleed it all you want, but with ABS you will never get it out without a trip to the dealer is what I was told anyway. Thanks for sharing.
We've used a hand held mity vac as well. The dealers are good at scaring us into taking our bikes to them. Ride safe & Ride Often! Here is a link to a bunch of our useful Free vids: www.lawabidingbiker.com/freevideos Here is a link to some of our useful for purchase videos: www.lawabidingbiker.com/buyvideos Want Answers & Information Fast? And help support us at the same time? Do you like the content we provide? Our patrons get answers to their questions/comments/feedback in less than 24 hrs and are part of our Private Facebook Group. If you are interested in being in this exclusive group you can get all the details at ==> www.lawabidingbiker.com/patreon If you haven't subscribed to the Law Abiding Biker Podcast make sure to do so. Listen in as we talk weekly about issues/items like this & so much more. You can listen on iTunes (Apple/IOS), Stitcher Radio (Android), or any other Podcast App ==> www.lawabidingbiker.com/podcast Join our free email club at /www.LawAbidingBiker.com/EmailClub. Only relevant content will be sent from time to time. Email club members are the first to find out about free or for sale content are given special coupon codes.
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Great video and information!! I don't know if some bikes are made in different places but with my bike, a 3/8 wrench fits way better than the 10mm. Just putting my experience out there.
My local HD Dealership charges $203.00 Can. for this service on a 2019 Sport Glide. "Stealership" indeed. Never again after watching this video - thank-you!
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I couldn’t get any fluid sucked out until I pumped the brakes. Hopefully that wasn’t a complete mistake? Nothing was coming out after cracking open the valve…not sure why. I had fluid in the reservoir. Tried opening up the valve more and still nothing for a few minutes until trying to pump the brake lever. The brake fluid in this new to me bike was extremely old, not sure it’s ever been changed in 12k miles…
Thanks for the helpful video. Question: are the calipers flushed as well? For example, if you do a Tokico conversion… are they fully saturated with the right type of brake fluid? Thanks again! Greetings from the Netherlands!
Thanks for the vid. Bought the tools and sure enough my fluid was off the scale for water. Did the flush and good to go. Not easy by yourself but take time and be careful.
Great!! Glad the video was helpful. Ride safe & Ride Often! Here is a link to a bunch of our useful Free vids: www.lawabidingbiker.com/freevideos Here is a link to some of our useful for purchase videos: www.lawabidingbiker.com/buyvideos Want Answers & Information Fast? And help support us at the same time? Do you like the content we provide? Our patrons get answers to their questions/comments/feedback in less than 24 hrs and are part of our Private Facebook Group. If you are interested in being in this exclusive group you can get all the details at ==> www.lawabidingbiker.com/patreon If you haven't subscribed to the Law Abiding Biker Podcast make sure to do so. Listen in as we talk weekly about issues/items like this & so much more. You can listen on iTunes (Apple/IOS), Stitcher Radio (Android), or any other Podcast App ==> www.lawabidingbiker.com/podcast Join our free email club at /www.LawAbidingBiker.com/EmailClub. Only relevant content will be sent from time to time. Email club members are the first to find out about free or for sale content are given special coupon codes.
Thanks for this video. This is going to come in handy on my 2014 Street Glide. I might even replace that front diaphragm while I'm at it since the guys at HD says that master cylinder is leaking.
be very careful and dont allow air into the system or you will have to have the abs brakes fixed at the dealership.. not costly but if air gets into the abs system the only what to get it out is by the dealer
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reservoir is 9-11 inlbs on my 21 low rider S. you dont want to over tighten. on some bikes it can crush the gasket and prevent it from sealing properly.
You are welcome Richard. Glad to help! Ride safe & Ride Often! Here is a link to a bunch of our useful Free vids: www.lawabidingbiker.com/freevideos Here is a link to some of our useful for purchase videos: www.lawabidingbiker.com/buyvideos Want Answers & Information Fast? And help support us at the same time? Do you like the content we provide? Our patrons get answers to their questions/comments/feedback in less than 24 hrs and are part of our Private Facebook Group. If you are interested in being in this exclusive group you can get all the details at ==> www.lawabidingbiker.com/patreon If you haven't subscribed to the Law Abiding Biker Podcast make sure to do so. Listen in as we talk weekly about issues/items like this & so much more. You can listen on iTunes (Apple/IOS), Stitcher Radio (Android), or any other Podcast App ==> www.lawabidingbiker.com/podcast Join our free email club at /www.LawAbidingBiker.com/EmailClub. Only relevant content will be sent from time to time. Email club members are the first to find out about free or for sale content are given special coupon codes.
Super glad the videos are helpful. We love hearing that!! Ride safe & Ride Often! Here is a link to a bunch of our useful Free vids: www.lawabidingbiker.com/freevideos Here is a link to some of our useful for purchase videos: www.lawabidingbiker.com/buyvideos Want Answers & Information Fast? And help support us at the same time? Do you like the content we provide? Our patrons get answers to their questions/comments/feedback in less than 24 hrs and are part of our Private Facebook Group. If you are interested in being in this exclusive group you can get all the details at ==> www.lawabidingbiker.com/patreon If you haven't subscribed to the Law Abiding Biker Podcast make sure to do so. Listen in as we talk weekly about issues/items like this & so much more. You can listen on iTunes (Apple/IOS), Stitcher Radio (Android), or any other Podcast App ==> www.lawabidingbiker.com/podcast Join our free email club at /www.LawAbidingBiker.com/EmailClub. Only relevant content will be sent from time to time. Email club members are the first to find out about free or for sale content are given special coupon codes.
Great video. Well explained and good visuals. My question, is especially on a system that has been neglected... Wouldn't it be a good idea to also tear-down the calipers as well?... My experience has been that crud and rust can lodge there. (Because the bleeder screw is at the top of the caliper, the sediments will collect at the bottom where they can't be flushed out.) When this happens it can wear the piston seal leading to brake failure. Also, if moisture has collected there the caliper cylinder can become pitted, also resulting in brake failure... I know it's a lot more work but, if you're cleaning the master and the lines, you might as well do it all.
When you say tear down the callipers, how do you mean? My bike (09 Rocker C) hasn't been ridden in about 1.5 years, went to move it yesterday, front brake lever is rock hard and wheel is almost locked up. With me sitting on bike trying to walk it backwards and a guy leaning from the front of the bike into the front wheel forcibly rotating it backward, we could only move it a few feet. So I don't know what has caused it, but I'm going to flush the fluid (hoping that may fix it), most likely replace pads at the same time. Should I be doing anything to the callipers other than pushing pistons back in to take new pads?
I know you know but you forgot to mention that after you pump the lever and foot pedal to get a solid feel back you should recheck the fluid level before tightening the cap up and calling it done
Great video - Mighty vac is a great tool. I had one already and used it on the bike recently. I noticed an definitifve improvement in the feel of both brakes. MC was only 18 months old but brakes felt way better. I'd add that doing that darned hydralic clutch got it to perform better as well. I'd like to see a video for it as well. I could not get the clutch cover off without pulling the exhaust and would like to know if there is a "trick".
Here is some info to those who are new to working on their bike. If your fluid turns black, make sure your pads are not dragging on the rotor. That will also heat up the brake fluid. I had it happen when I didn't know better. It locked my front tire up
@1:40 you say the process is identical for ABS and nonABS. My service manual makes a big deal out of something called Digital Service Technician II for ABS.
The process is the same. You can either exercise the ABS systemn using DST II, or you can lock up the brakes and activate the ABS to exercise it. Ride safe & Ride Often! Check out this RUclips Channel as we have a ton of free videos for you! Check out our useful for purchase videos: www.lawabidingbiker.com/buyvideos BECOME AN ECXLUSIVE MEMBER-GET BENEFITS: www.lawabidingbiker.com/patreon Leave a flat donation: www.lawabidingbiker.com/donate Shop in the Official Law Abiding Biker Store: shop.lawabidingbiker.com Subscribe to the Law Abiding Biker Podcast: www.lawabidingbiker.com/app Join our free email club: www.lawabidingbiker.com/emailclub
👍🏼......Had my local dealer do new pads in the rear so they had to bleed the rear lines. They left the cap loose on the rear fluid reservoir. Was riding to a buddies house and lost all pressure. I looked down and the cap was completely gone and the reservoir empty. Dealers don’t always do it right that’s for sure.
Yup, we've heard many stories like this. Things left loose etc. Unfortunate. But, I know many professional mechanics too and fortunately, there are more of them. That's dangerous what happened to you!!
Why do you think the brakes had to be bled because of new pads? It's a closed system. No need to bleed. IF! and IF! the brakes were spongy because moisture in the caliper boiled from hard braking (over heating) making for a spongy brake then yes but if the brake is not spongy then there is no need to bleed just for a pad change.
if you use a vacuum system it'll remove it. and you can have someone pump the brake regularly while maintaining fluid in the reservoir. never let the reservoir go dry, you'll get air.
From my understanding a vaccum system will not completely evacuate the ABS valve. The issue is that moisture in the brake fluid that is in the valve can corrode valve components and lead to ABS failure. If you bleed the way shown in this video describes you believe that this corrosion is not a high risk, or that the mixing of fresh brake fluid with the tiny amount in the valve will allow mixing. I do not know if that is even possible. At my dealer the flush and bleed is $100. I hate paying for a relatively simple procedure, but had I had ABS on a previous HD I might have saved 9 days in the hospital. I want my ABS to always work.
Here is how i do my mine on my 08 Ultra with Abs. I do the initial flush and then i take bike out on the road and hit my brakes hard which activates my abs system which pushes old fluid out of abs module and new fluid into it. I do this a few times then i go back and flush both front and rear again. This does work cause when Harley had the recall on us with the abs system prone to solenoid lock up i told the Harley tech i already did a complete flush and how i did it and when he did his thing for the fluid recall and after he was done he told me there was absolutely no old fluid in my system and he even told me what i did was pretty smart.
got a 96 dyna wide glide. replaced rubber front and rear. rear brake pumps up stiff until rolled backwards, then pedal is gone. any ideas on this one? no leaks anywhere from res to cal. will be flushing both front and rear brake systems. rubber replaced by a local custom shop.
I tried this method exactly the same way on an '02 XL. Sucked the fluid out of the reservoir with a Mighty Vac. Filled it up with my correct DOT 5. Hooked the vac up to the bleed screw and no fluid comes out! Now if I pull the brake lever it just stays pulled and I have to manually make it return. Any suggestions where to look?
I had an old Honda when I was a teenager and I never bled or changed anything in it for like 10 years and never had any problems besides running out of gas. Was I lucky or Hondas are that good?
I have a 2021 Softail standard with 6k on it. Bought it in 2022. The hand brake got really stiff & it's like I loss stopping power. Thinking about bleeding it. What's your opinion? Thx
71-108 inch pounds for the front brake bleeder valve and 75-102 inch pounds for the rear brake bleeder valve. Ride safe & Ride Often! Check out this RUclips Channel as we have a ton of free videos for you! Check out our useful for purchase videos: www.lawabidingbiker.com/buyvideos BECOME AN ECXLUSIVE MEMBER-GET BENEFITS: www.lawabidingbiker.com/patreon Leave a flat donation: www.lawabidingbiker.com/donate Shop in the Official Law Abiding Biker Store: shop.lawabidingbiker.com Subscribe to the Law Abiding Biker Podcast: www.lawabidingbiker.com/app Join our free email club: www.lawabidingbiker.com/emailclub
curious to know why Harley use a 10 mm for the bleeder valve nut, (are they made in Japan?) metric instead of imperial, everything else is imperial e.g 5/8" drain plugs, 3/16" hex screws etc
My 'Made in USA' Sportster has Brembo brakes which are made in Italy hence why metric. The Showa shocks on my 'Made in USA' Sportster are Japanese. Not that I have a problem with that.
Hello Sir, Video makes total sense, and has worked well for my factory calipers, however, on my 2020 FLHX w/ABS, If I am installing a new set of front (chrome) calipers would I follow the following procedure? THANK YOU ! ! 1. Remove existing front left caliper 2. Install new front left caliper 3. Remove front master cylinder cap 4. Squeeze front brake lever to push caliper cups towards rotor 5. Now bleed front left caliper The above sequence makes sense (my assumption) because Im trying to fill the caliper with fluid prior to bleeding. Make sense? Thanks again! Love your videos!!
Is that a abs bike ???? Reason for askin i was always told harley has to use there tool to pulse abs be cool if ya have abs and process would still work
great Video, question... doing a set of 18" Apes on a 2019 Road King with ABS, will replace all lines so there will be air...how would you go about this? thanks John
It's the came process. Obviously there will be more air in the beginning. Ride safe & Ride Often! Here is a link to a bunch of our useful Free vids: www.lawabidingbiker.com/freevideos Here is a link to some of our useful for purchase videos: www.lawabidingbiker.com/buyvideos Want Answers & Information Fast? And help support us at the same time? Do you like the content we provide? Our patrons get answers to their questions/comments/feedback in less than 24 hrs and are part of our Private Facebook Group. If you are interested in being in this exclusive group you can get all the details at ==> www.lawabidingbiker.com/patreon If you haven't subscribed to the Law Abiding Biker Podcast make sure to do so. Listen in as we talk weekly about issues/items like this & so much more. You can listen on iTunes (Apple/IOS), Stitcher Radio (Android), or any other Podcast App ==> www.lawabidingbiker.com/podcast Join our free email club at /www.LawAbidingBiker.com/EmailClub. Only relevant content will be sent from time to time. Email club members are the first to find out about free or for sale content are given special coupon codes.
I’ve got an 18 sgs about to put Yaffe 12” s on this week and install extended clutch and brake cable can I use this process or will I have air I can’t get out myself?and have to go to Harley to get it flushed
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Is it the same for an ABS equipped bike ?I have an 18 FLFB
hi I just bleed out my front brake with the classic method pumping the brake and open the valve below, than close the valve and release the brake. one problem. after I replace the oil the front brake it's loose, it doesn't brake anymore. why might be the cause??? help asap
@@iLVCA was going to ask a question myself but like many channels they don't reply back to those in need. I have no front breaks now and no help. I will never buy another Harley got 2 and can't ride either. Harley mechanics are highly needed cause they always say it will take a month, even for just a simple break job oil change and tires. Ridiculous.
@@flatout5815I 8:27 8:34 8:35
Excellent video. Detailed and accurate. One Tech Tip I would like to add. I can’t take credit for this. Learnedd this from Delboys Garage. After nyou bleed your brakes there are still “nano bubbles” in the system. Simply wrap a bungie cord around the brake handle for the front and wrap a bungie around the rear brake pedal to the crash bar and let sit overnight. Next morning remove the bungies and you will have a significant improvement in handle and pedal due to the “nano bubbles” raising up through the system and releasing into the master cylinder. It’s a technique that racers use and believe me, you will be happy with the results. Be safe and ride carefully.
One minute in to this video I knew I'd come to the right place. This channel is an excellent example of what makes RUclips great.
Thank you so much for you kind words!
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All this positivity is making me feel warm and fuzzy. That could also be the Jameson. Great videos either way. Keep it up.
Thank you for all your videos. They are of great value to all of us that maintain our own bikes because WE care more about our bikes that the person that just works on them but doesn't ride them. I've had Harleys since I was 19 years old and I'm 72 now. I've always worked on my own bikes. I watched your video on bleeding brakes and, as usual, your covered everything necessary to do a great job...but there's one more thing you might try... and pass along if you find, as I did, that the brakes, both front and rear, can be made just a bit better. When you have completed your procedure and are ready to call it a night, wrap your brake handle around the grip, about four turns with a bungie cord and leave it overnight. Wrap the foot brake around the crash bar, again about four turns. When you get up the next morning and release the bungie, you will discover that you have almost twice the brake as you had the night before. Reason: After bleeding or flushing your brakes, there are "nanobubbles" in the line. Pressureizing the line overnight will cause the nanobubbles to rise through the line and escape at the resevoir. Sounds a bit odd but racers have known this technique for years. Be well and be safe out there. Love your content.
A tip for the front brakes:
After finishing up, take a rag, string, or rubber band and loop it around the front brake lever and handle bar and gently apply the brakes (not too much) and secure overnight to allow any micro bubbles to rise up into the reservoir.
that’s also a helpful technique when bleeding the brakes by yourself….
Do you Crack the bleeder again after with that lever pressure?
@@eschrader no that's to let any leftover bubbles in your master
Because of this video, I picked up an off brand air compressor vacuum system and flushed my front and rear brakes on my new to me 05 Electra Glide Classic. The old fluid was a dark cloudy brown, The front brake level was less than half in the master cylinder. I bought small bottles and threw away what was left over. Thank you very much!
I notice a few comments here regarding the ABS system,you don't need to go to the dealer to flush ABS provided you don't introduce any air into the system if you do then off to the dealer you go,the only thing I do is go for a ride and utilise the ABS system after the first flush and then do a repeat flush,this is done to move the old fluid out of the ABS unit,information came from my local dealer.
He introduced air into the system when he sucked the fluid out of the master cylinder!
No he didn't. He filled it before he flushed. So long as the little hole at the bottom has fluid in, it is fine.
Thank you for the videos for us guys who cant afford a shop visit.
Any time!
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Just bought my FIRST HD. 2009 flhtcu and loving it !! Just reinforcing what YOU already know. You are putting out the most complete DIY projects out. Thank you !!!!
Best "how to" video ever. I like how detailed you are. After watching this video I'm more confident that I can change my own brake fluid instead of taking it to a shop. Thank you for the savings.
Awesome! Love to hear things like this Robert!! That's our mission. Helping as many bikers as we can worldwide.
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Simply the BEST Harley site on RUclips. Your videos are killer! We learn so much from your channel. Thanks from Canada.
Thank you so much! We appreciate it.
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Yup, you are still the best source on information.
Couldn’t believe it but the brake fluid reservoir in my 06 FLH froze in the winter and cracked the reservoir cover . Fluid ended up all over the side of my gas tank while in storage. I learned my lesson.
Thank you so much for making this video. I live in Bahrain and a bunch of us Harley riders (all women) are attending a workshop on basic maintenance and service for our Harleys and your video is awesome! I shared it with the group.
Sajida what type of workshops and where? I’m interested in this!
Thanks. You are teaching me how to be independent and rely on my capabilities to mantain the bike 👍🏼
Very cool. Thanks for watching.
Very good info..... any way to cycle the anti lock solenoids for us home guys.....
This guy has taught me alot over the years
What about the ABS pump module? Isn't there fluid trapped in there (as well as moisture build up)? Does this method you are using somehow allow for that fluid to be released and replaced with fresh fluid?
The abs module needs to be actuated via a scan tool or using the abs actively om your motorcycle to cycle any air or moisture out of there. I was dissapointed @Ryan didnt address this as well :/ the rest is good info.
Regarding changing/flushing brake fluid every two years - You change brake fluid because the fluid in the caliper near the brake pads gets hot and breaks down. The brake fluid that breaks down due to caliper heat will sludge up and this sludge and will seize the caliper piston. That's why calipers seize. Heat from the brakes, not time or water. Thank you for the video!
Thanks for watching. Actually, everything stated is correct. We have the actual Harley Service Info and bulletin in hand. Ride safe.
This is one of those issues that divides people in a passionate way. Prior to ABS brake flushing was a task that any DIYer could do on their bike. But ABS introduced a solenoid/valve, subject to corrosion and consequent failure. The motor company maintains that to flush the brakes entirely you have to use Digital Technician to cycle the valve while flushing the system to completely flush. My dealer charges an hour, other posters have mentioned a half hour. The motor company is backed up by their knowledgeable engineers, and their highly conservative product liability legal advisers and probably a senior management highly attuned to profit maximization.
Then we have a plethora of social media commentators, including Ryan, that assure us that you too can DIY this procedure. And he may be right. I honestly do not know. But having had an accident where I lowsided my FLHRC, and ABS might have prevented said accident, I want to make sure that the ABS always works on my replacement FLHTCU.
You pays (or not) your money, but you ALWAYS takes your chances!
My Harley rear brake locks up after short ride. There must be tests to isolate brake cylinder, line or caliper. Lots of opinions, no answers. Even J&P Cycles is guessing. You could really make my day!!
Ryan, this is an excellent video you did everything 100% right and a I hope this helps other bikers. I was with a group in Virginia mountains and my buddy lost his rear brake going up the mountain and it was because of never checking brake fluid.
Great and informative video. One thing I didn't hear mentioned is: Inspect the caps of the both brake and clutch resivours for any signs of corrosion or blistering paint. This is a tell tail sign that the seal is bad. The seal replaced with a new cap from HD. Any signs of leaking from the caps is not good!
Thanks! We appreciate the added info.
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Thank you for sharing this procedure. Very helpful. I’m very confident in doing this myself from watching your video. Thanks again. David
Great videos man You saved me mega$$ with your videos I’m from Canada so it’s a bit pricy here at the dealers your content is awesome it’s clear and easy to follow keep up the great work 🇨🇦
Ryan great video on flush and bleed brakes. The reservoir caps ONLY can be wash out with plain water and then dried. Plain water will clean off brake fluid. Even after you put the caps back on a with a wet rag wipe around the cap. If you are with other bikers at a show look at some bikes the caps have corrosion where it meets the reservoir. Be Cool and Ride Safe.🇺🇸🏍
Yah, that's why we also say to lay it right side up, so you won't get seepage around that lid. It works. Thanks for weighing in
Wait, you wash the cap with water? I thought the whole idea was to avoid moisture, how do you wash it out without breaking the black seal (inside of cap, the thing with all those lumpy rectangles) and secondly how do you dry it out (method) and know it's completely dry and you're not adding moisture back into the system?
Thanks!
I always cycle my ABS module after a flush then flush again. Merely flushing the brakes does not move fluid through the ABS module. I just did a video on it while I was chasing down an ABS light issue.
Just drove 20 miles to the local store to get brake fluid in 20 miles back home. Didn't know I needed to buy a pump in a vacuum. Wish I could watch the whole damn video first
Thanks for the video. I've done it the past before but this was a good refresher. Funny thing is in the last 6 years I haven't kept a bike long enough to do the 2 year flush but my bike now needs it. Deuces ✌
Glad it was helpful!
Mine has ABS. I read that the motor company maintains that to flush the brakes entirely you have to use Digital Technician to cycle the valve while flushing the system to completely flush. Is this the case?
Well..its only me. best friend passed away and he usually was the guiding force for me on my Harley. Learned a lot from him. Now I have to figure out how to do this again without damaging paint and/or finish. Don't have a compressor-just a hand powered unit purchased from Advanced Auto.
Many thanks for all the videos that you publish. I'm addicted. Purchased the brake fluid tester through your link (as well as the Mitey-Vac). When I tested my fluid, the meter went immediately to RED. Probably original fluid - 2013 Street Glide - just never had any issues so never thought I needed to flush. Will be flushed DIY as soon as possible. Keep up the good work.
Great video... just finished replacing the brake pads on my Road King.. I was surprised to find that there was still a lot of life left on the pads. Been riding awhile and didn’t realize I needed to flush out the old fluid every two years. Last time I replaced the pads and bled the brakes was a few years ago which explains why they felt so spongey... Kinda kicking myself in the ass now realizing that all I really needed to do was flush the old fluid... oh well, at least I know I won’t be needing new brake pads on the front for awhile! 😛 So I went ahead and used the manual style mighty vac and followed the instructions in your handy video. Brakes work great... no more sponginess. Wondering if I still need to build up the pressure in the lines using the lever and crack the bleeder the old school way afterwards for good measure? 👍
Thanks alot. Harley just got my last $100+ for this. Thanks again.
Great to hear!
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Great video, I’ve done the same procedure with a hand held mity vac. Only difference I was Leary about sucking as much fluid initially out of the MC’s. Logic tells me if you suck it “all” out of the MC, you can’t help but introduce air into the system pouring new fluid into a completely empty MC?
If any air gets into the system you can bleed it all you want, but with ABS you will never get it out without a trip to the dealer is what I was told anyway. Thanks for sharing.
We've used a hand held mity vac as well. The dealers are good at scaring us into taking our bikes to them.
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Good well run through video mate. Checked mine earlier and its brown, and max lights. Cheers.
Thank you for teaching me everything I needed to know about my brake system. You possibly saved my life.
Great tool , purchased one and it saved my ass!!!!
Your the man! Saving me tons of money and teaching me at the same time! Thank you sir!
Great to hear!
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Great information. I was worried due to the ABS system... no sweat.
Much thanks
I have over 50k on my road glide ultra 107 never though about the filter. Thanks so much
I or my bike shorted out harness for rear turn signals and brake light .can you. Do a video please thank you
Great video and information!! I don't know if some bikes are made in different places but with my bike, a 3/8 wrench fits way better than the 10mm. Just putting my experience out there.
My local HD Dealership charges $203.00 Can. for this service on a 2019 Sport Glide. "Stealership" indeed. Never again after watching this video - thank-you!
Love hearing stuff like this. It's why we do what we do. Love helping bikers save money
Very informative, greetings from Wales. 🏴🤘
Great video! Learned something new and flushed my lines and changed break pads today. Thank you!
Glad it helped!
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What was that washer for sitting on the drivers foot rest?
Probably from when he took the mirror off.
AWESOME SAUCE man, Easiest way I've ever seen.. much better than gravity and pumping..
Great video Ryan and Oscar, Thank you for the information.Picked up 2 items from your link
I couldn’t get any fluid sucked out until I pumped the brakes. Hopefully that wasn’t a complete mistake? Nothing was coming out after cracking open the valve…not sure why. I had fluid in the reservoir. Tried opening up the valve more and still nothing for a few minutes until trying to pump the brake lever. The brake fluid in this new to me bike was extremely old, not sure it’s ever been changed in 12k miles…
Thanks for the helpful video. Question: are the calipers flushed as well? For example, if you do a Tokico conversion… are they fully saturated with the right type of brake fluid? Thanks again! Greetings from the Netherlands!
just wondering, should you have checked level of fluid after pumping brakes up?
May have missed it but where is your link for the Mighty Vac?
Great instructional video!
Thanks for the vid. Bought the tools and sure enough my fluid was off the scale for water. Did the flush and good to go. Not easy by yourself but take time and be careful.
Great!! Glad the video was helpful.
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Thanks for this video.
This is going to come in handy on my 2014 Street Glide.
I might even replace that front diaphragm while I'm at it since the guys at HD says that master cylinder is leaking.
be very careful and dont allow air into the system or you will have to have the abs brakes fixed at the dealership.. not costly but if air gets into the abs system the only what to get it out is by the dealer
@@tylerfj24 Thanks but I don't believe my standard 2014 has ABS.
Great helpful video. What was that lock washer on the running board from as you sealed the rear master cylinder cap ?
Thanks for the support. Just completed brake flush using your tutoria l.
Glad it helped.
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Would it be a good idea to compress the caliper piston in order to change that fluid too?
reservoir is 9-11 inlbs on my 21 low rider S. you dont want to over tighten. on some bikes it can crush the gasket and prevent it from sealing properly.
GREAT VIDEO!
will be turning in quite often, thanks for showing us all how to properly execute a brake bleed and/or change
You are welcome Richard. Glad to help!
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Super glad the videos are helpful. We love hearing that!!
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@@RyanUrlacher very good.
Thanks for the all the hard work You are very good with all of your products.
Thanks Bill P
Great video. Well explained and good visuals. My question, is especially on a system that has been neglected... Wouldn't it be a good idea to also tear-down the calipers as well?... My experience has been that crud and rust can lodge there. (Because the bleeder screw is at the top of the caliper, the sediments will collect at the bottom where they can't be flushed out.) When this happens it can wear the piston seal leading to brake failure. Also, if moisture has collected there the caliper cylinder can become pitted, also resulting in brake failure... I know it's a lot more work but, if you're cleaning the master and the lines, you might as well do it all.
When you say tear down the callipers, how do you mean?
My bike (09 Rocker C) hasn't been ridden in about 1.5 years, went to move it yesterday, front brake lever is rock hard and wheel is almost locked up.
With me sitting on bike trying to walk it backwards and a guy leaning from the front of the bike into the front wheel forcibly rotating it backward, we could only move it a few feet.
So I don't know what has caused it, but I'm going to flush the fluid (hoping that may fix it), most likely replace pads at the same time.
Should I be doing anything to the callipers other than pushing pistons back in to take new pads?
I know you know but you forgot to mention that after you pump the lever and foot pedal to get a solid feel back you should recheck the fluid level before tightening the cap up and calling it done
digitalidiot23 you better answer him Ryan, or Oscar gonna ‘top you’re balls off’.
No, he didn't forget. He said it for the front and back.
Great video - Mighty vac is a great tool. I had one already and used it on the bike recently. I noticed an definitifve improvement in the feel of both brakes. MC was only 18 months old but brakes felt way better.
I'd add that doing that darned hydralic clutch got it to perform better as well. I'd like to see a video for it as well. I could not get the clutch cover off without pulling the exhaust and would like to know if there is a "trick".
Here is some info to those who are new to working on their bike. If your fluid turns black, make sure your pads are not dragging on the rotor. That will also heat up the brake fluid. I had it happen when I didn't know better. It locked my front tire up
Don't u have to cycle the abs module? Can that be done by simply going for a short ride and applying brakes hard enough to activate abs module?
thanks for the helpfull channel i have been watching your channel for few years now i feel like i know you in a way....God bless and thank you again
I appreciate that!
@1:40 you say the process is identical for ABS and nonABS. My service manual makes a big deal out of something called Digital Service Technician II for ABS.
The process is the same. You can either exercise the ABS systemn using DST II, or you can lock up the brakes and activate the ABS to exercise it.
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When you sucked all the fluid out of the top brake reservoir, did this process introduce air to the brake system.?
Going to purchase brake flush kit! Thank you Law abiding biker
Just watched this vid. Thank you for the clarity. Excellent tips.
Thank you sir I appreciate the knowledge. You the man. Let's keep it on 2
Thanks for this. Will be doing this after my 50k
My 2023 Tri-Glide needed a fluid change at around 6 months.
👍🏼......Had my local dealer do new pads in the rear so they had to bleed the rear lines. They left the cap loose on the rear fluid reservoir. Was riding to a buddies house and lost all pressure. I looked down and the cap was completely gone and the reservoir empty. Dealers don’t always do it right that’s for sure.
Yup, we've heard many stories like this. Things left loose etc. Unfortunate. But, I know many professional mechanics too and fortunately, there are more of them. That's dangerous what happened to you!!
Why do you think the brakes had to be bled because of new pads? It's a closed system. No need to bleed. IF! and IF! the brakes were spongy because moisture in the caliper boiled from hard braking (over heating) making for a spongy brake then yes but if the brake is not spongy then there is no need to bleed just for a pad change.
Great video Ryan and Oscar! Thanks much!!
How about all the brake fluid in the ABS module how does this help getting that fluid out and clean ???????
if you use a vacuum system it'll remove it. and you can have someone pump the brake regularly while maintaining fluid in the reservoir. never let the reservoir go dry, you'll get air.
From my understanding a vaccum system will not completely evacuate the ABS valve. The issue is that moisture in the brake fluid that is in the valve can corrode valve components and lead to ABS failure. If you bleed the way shown in this video describes you believe that this corrosion is not a high risk, or that the mixing of fresh brake fluid with the tiny amount in the valve will allow mixing. I do not know if that is even possible. At my dealer the flush and bleed is $100. I hate paying for a relatively simple procedure, but had I had ABS on a previous HD I might have saved 9 days in the hospital. I want my ABS to always work.
Here is how i do my mine on my 08 Ultra with Abs. I do the initial flush and then i take bike out on the road and hit my brakes hard which activates my abs system which pushes old fluid out of abs module and new fluid into it.
I do this a few times then i go back and flush both front and rear again. This does work cause when Harley had the recall on us with the abs system prone to solenoid lock up i told the Harley tech i already did a complete flush and how i did it and when he did his thing for the fluid recall and after he was done he told me there was absolutely no old fluid in my system and he even told me what i did was pretty smart.
got a 96 dyna wide glide. replaced rubber front and rear. rear brake pumps up stiff until rolled backwards, then pedal is gone. any ideas on this one? no leaks anywhere from res to cal. will be flushing both front and rear brake systems. rubber replaced by a local custom shop.
Great videos! But, where is that star washer supposed to be that was laying on the footboard by the rear master cylinder ???? lol
I tried this method exactly the same way on an '02 XL. Sucked the fluid out of the reservoir with a Mighty Vac. Filled it up with my correct DOT 5. Hooked the vac up to the bleed screw and no fluid comes out! Now if I pull the brake lever it just stays pulled and I have to manually make it return. Any suggestions where to look?
Did u say there are 2 reservoirs for the front?
I had an old Honda when I was a teenager and I never bled or changed anything in it for like 10 years and never had any problems besides running out of gas. Was I lucky or Hondas are that good?
I have a 2021 Softail standard with 6k on it. Bought it in 2022. The hand brake got really stiff & it's like I loss stopping power. Thinking about bleeding it. What's your opinion? Thx
Purchased items via the links! Thanks so much for producing these videos!
you betch. thx for your support!
Excellent video...bought the tools...thx and safe riding
What's the recommended torque specs for the bleeder valve? Mine is seeping a little after torqued to 60 in lbs.
71-108 inch pounds for the front brake bleeder valve and 75-102 inch pounds for the rear brake bleeder valve.
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curious to know why Harley use a 10 mm for the bleeder valve nut, (are they made in Japan?) metric instead of imperial, everything else is imperial e.g 5/8" drain plugs, 3/16" hex screws etc
My 'Made in USA' Sportster has Brembo brakes which are made in Italy hence why metric. The Showa shocks on my 'Made in USA' Sportster are Japanese. Not that I have a problem with that.
What if you want to completely empty it? Not replace it with new? I need to remove de lines and want to empty all the liquids before that.
Hello Sir,
Video makes total sense, and has worked well for my factory calipers, however, on my 2020 FLHX w/ABS, If I am installing a new set of front (chrome) calipers would I follow the following procedure? THANK YOU ! !
1. Remove existing front left caliper
2. Install new front left caliper
3. Remove front master cylinder cap
4. Squeeze front brake lever to push caliper cups towards rotor
5. Now bleed front left caliper
The above sequence makes sense (my assumption) because Im trying to fill the caliper with fluid prior to bleeding.
Make sense?
Thanks again!
Love your videos!!
do you have to do anything w/ the abs compartment?
Is that a abs bike ????
Reason for askin i was always told harley has to use there tool to pulse abs be cool if ya have abs and process would still work
This is ABS on this bike. Been doing it for years on ABS bikes.
Ok thanks alot great tip !!! I really need to flush mine again n i rather not pay them since i have the mighty vac to use from my cars.
Thanks for sharing your experience. Great video 👍
So does this include say if I was changing my brake calipers for new ones would I still do this process?
Love the vid brother but I think most people would like a video on how to do it without specialty tools
What a great video!
Is the vacuum pump recommended for ABS, or will the manual pump do?
So the bike should be on the jiffy stand and not held vertically? Thanks
Great DYI video, much appreciated.
great Video, question... doing a set of 18" Apes on a 2019 Road King with ABS, will replace all lines so there will be air...how would you go about this?
thanks
John
It's the came process. Obviously there will be more air in the beginning.
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I’ve got an 18 sgs about to put Yaffe 12” s on this week and install extended clutch and brake cable can I use this process or will I have air I can’t get out myself?and have to go to Harley to get it flushed
Great video. But i would have liked too see how the hand pump worked.
Works the same. You just pump it up with the handle and it starts sucking. No difference except its manual.