GE Repair guy here. We change out these things all the time. Usually because water leaks onto the shaft bearing. I have not come across too many Mode Shifters that short like this but this is good info to know. Replacing one of these Mode Shifters will cost you around $300 parts and labor. Nice video. :)
Excellent! Great explanation and simple solution. Really appreciate you taking the time to create this video for us DYI folks who cringe when faced with the option of having to buy overpriced components or, God forbid, replace increasingly expensive appliances. Thank you!
Thank you for this video, you just saved me the cost of a mode shifter assembly. I Did this repair last night, washer is back in working order. Thanks again
Hope you don't mind if I ask you a question. I'm doing this repair myself as you did, and I wanted to know if you went with rivets or screws to reassemble. What size drill bit did you use to drill out old rivets? I would greatly appreciate your response and help. Thank you!
I used small zip ties after drilling out the rivets. The holes left behind were too large for the self tapping screws I had on hand- not an ideal fix but it is holding up well
Perfectly described. I have the exact same issue. Only thing that could make the video better is showing how to remove the tub to get to coil and whether or not you really need to remove the motor. Otherwise great.
hey it's also worth mentioning that once I connect the electricity I hear a cling, esp. when the device has been left off for few minutes to completely drain out. Luckily I discovered it is from the Mode Shifter Assembly. This sound is irrelative of washing program activity that is, it happens when the washer is Idel immediately after being plugged in
Background: I dumped too many clothes in the machine. During last cycle it spun violently and I decided to to press switch to shut down. After that it stop agitating or spinning. The water filling is Ok and drain pump works. Question-1: Does it have control board inside top dash compartment? Question-2: I found the manual inside the Washer dash panel. It has the drawing of LED location and the Error code chart. But I kept on looking behind the connection plugs and don't see the small green LED. In the dark, there was no blinking. Are all motors for this big-wheel series has the LED? Question-3: How can I check the motor? I bought a used motor and replaced it but still dead. Question-4: How can I check the clutch switch without flipping the washer and tear it apart? Can I simply test continuity from the Red+Yellow terminal? Thanks,
mark totton that would be very unlikely. E=IxR and P=IxE good math formulas to know. if you do the math the coil only draws a few Watts. I'd be more concerned about the LED on the Diagnostics board catching on fire before this coil does.
what exactly do I see when I take off the rivets, and, how/where is the fuse? just would like to know before I take off the shifter, thanks, a diagram would be cool, thanks
If I am not mistaken, the green light is supposed to flash off and on. Is it not? My thinking is the pattern gives the code. Steady one second intervals indicates no codes. Blink on one second, off two seconds, one flash indicates a fault. On one second, off two, three flashes, etc. Correct me if I am wrong. What was your symptoms? Can a bad shifter cause one to wad clothes?
I think, as he said, mine is flashing green 4 times - which is the error code for "mode shifter coil" - I'll have to say "I really Never liked this GE Profile washer that I bought! It Sucks!
Hey thanks so much for the tutorial! Great explanation and simple solution. Really appreciate you taking the time to create, saved my whasher and expensive and non replacement coil only to find...they sale the hole set with shaft for $150 USD......thanks so mucho, greathings from Baja Mexico.
My washer is showing the error code for an open shifter coil (4 flashes). The symptom is that the drum will not go to high-speed spin, although it agitates and otherwise performs properly. I am going to try your fix tonight, I hope that it works!
I *thought* that it was agitating properly before, maybe not. I did the coil fuse bypass, and it works great. The locking collar is retracted and extended on cue. But the main problem still exists. The drum will not attain a high-speed spin. After one minute at a moderate speed, instead of "kicking into a high gear", the washer slows the drum and continues to spin at a greatly reduced speed. Bummer.
Great video. Just got one of these.. Needed to know what was up.. Now can tell customer.. not sure I can leave out fuse.. If it were mine I could. I don't like tearing down old Ge.. washers.. pain.. compared to Old Whirlpool.
Does anyone know the heat spec on the fuse? If Im going to go through the trouble, I might as well spend the $3 and replace the fuse instead of bypassing it. Thanks
Grat Video. Thanks. I think that is the problem with my machine, I can see the 4 red flash on the board. she fills with water and empties but does not wash or spin. but I wanted to ask you. you should see the motor running when you have this problem ?? Or is it that the engine does not run when it has the problem of the mode shift?? because I don't see the engine running by itself
I was sure my my fuse went as the mode shift wasn’t engaging and the basket was spinning not the agitator while in wash . It somehow did reset itself however
Hi, Great vid man, I do Appliance work for a living and be leave me with today's junk , not like the ninties real machines. you never stop learning....
with all due respect even the 90's machines were absolute junk. you'll have to go back to 70's or 60's before we get machines that lasted over 20 years
With the thermal fuse thrown out or not used, are you not afraid that in the future the coil wire or something else important in the mode shifter assembly will get burnt and damaged due to power surge?
Mine flashes 10 times after I turned it on. Washer will fill in with water and will drain but no agitation and spin. Lid switch, fuse and the control knob panel are okay. What a mess!!
I have a question about the ge Hydro washer. When the washer is agitating and the basket is moving only to the left while in agitation. Is this the issue as well. From what I saw in a video on You tube, When the washer is agitating the basket should be moving left to right. On mine its moving only counter clockwise. And it like a half turn per agitation.
I have a Hydro wave. I believe it changes the agitation cycle 1 direction, then both directions. The top of the agitator only goes 1 direction, the bottom goes both.
Yes, he did that in the video. With the thermal fuse in series, he was reading open circuit and that's because the thermal fuse was open. When he bypassed the thermal fuse and measured the coil directly, he got 89.7 ohms.
@@JaleelJohanson62- isn’t the very thin copper wire in the coil insulated therefore trying to test continuity is a little difficult? I cut a little 2 inch piece and couldn’t seem to get continuity between that small piece. Then I started wondering is this wire insulated?
@@condor5635 The coil wire is indeed insulated with enamel coating, but the ends of the coil wires are not coated. This is where the electrical connection to the coil is made, and also where you'd want to measure the coil resistance.
@@JaleelJohanson62 - thanks for that if I cut off an inch or two on the ends, how do I remove the enamel such that I can get a good connection? Maybe some steel wool or sandpaper will remove the enamel?
Thanks for such a helpfull video...i removed the fuse but the coil is giving me 73 ohms. The washer is still not working. What should i do? Is there a place to get the coil only instead of whole assembly?
@@imrankhalid7610 did you ever end up fixing yours? I’m in a similar state, LED flashing normal but ohms reading low from the shifter coil around 66ohms. Hate to do all that work and find the shifter isn’t the problem
So, basically I suck at fixing things. I've taken a lot of things apart, but getting them back together has been a problem. Your video is super informative, and I get the overall idea. I'm sure this is probably a stupid question, but those rivets you drilled out, do they need to be replaced? I've never riveted a damn thing, ever, but I'm not opposed to trying. Sorry for being a noob.
Just disassembled mode shifter to remove thermal fuse. Fuse ohmed out good, but removed it anyway. Figured I went this far. Coil ohms out at 68.9. Any other ideas? I was initially getting the four flashing lights. GE paperwork says replace motor. Please say it isn't so.
It could be purely mechanical such that the gears are not greased good enough to be engaged and disengaged. Therefore the coils is not strong enough to move them.
OKAY you remove the safety link.... it got hot and blew the fuse.... why did it get HOT ??? so now when it gets HOT ''again'', safety fuse is gone , a fire will happen or wall fuse will pop= then what??? what will you remove then ???
mine has 82 v and with an 90ohm coil you will pull less than 1amp. The wire would probably burn open again before a fire. If you really want to fuse it, put in an inline fuse and put a 2 amp fuse inline with either lead. If you blow fuses, you have some windings shorting..then force to change out the coil..This non resetting fuse is probably a bad idea. Work in electronics daily. She these things go out for no real reason. GREAT Video..I never knew there was one in there. Going to fix mine tomorrow...
Hi Andrew my name is Javier thanks in advance for your how to video, but i'm not that knowledgeable in electronics is it possible that we could have a step by step guide thanks appreciated have a great day
Javier Palma if you're not that knowledgeable in electronics I would highly suggest finding someone that is to do the repair for you. the use of soldering equipment is required for this repair. if my washing machine breaks again I will surely make a more in-depth step by step for you.
Thank you Andrew for sharing with us this genius solution. My washer doesn’t spin or agitate at all. After closing in on I was left to either of two faulty parts . The Mode Shifter Assembly and the Motor. I tested out the two leads coming from the Shifter at 200 Ohmmeter (Rx1) and I came up with 70 ohms. Does that mean it’s working properly? I also noticed that the LED Flash on Motor controller board isn’t working , I’m afraid the board might be the source of the problem!! The drive motor looks in a pretty good condition and for more diagnostics I tested out the two internal leads coming out from the dynamo for continuity and the Multimeter peeps and the resistance reading is 1 - 0.9ohm. The Schematics provided by the company for control plate shows a fuse that I can’t seem to locate? I would appreciate if you could point me out in the right direction cuz it would be inconvenient to replace the whole motor especially that I have to find away to ship overseas which is way too expensive for me.
Jason Stockholm I too have the same issue, I replaced the inverter motor still nothing. Washer fills and drains water, however, doesn't spin or agitate. What was your fix. Appreciate any info. Thanks in advance.
Make sure that you blow out the boards on the motor with some compressed air. I was looking for the little green LED and couldn't see it until I blew it out. A little late response-wise but perhaps it might benefit someone else.
Not free though.... You invested a good amount of time to take the machine apart down to this level in order to get at the shifter coil. I'll bet it took an afternoon to do that and then re-assemble the washer. Worth it for the homeowner with an open afternoon, but way too costly to pay someone to do it for you.
GE Repair guy here. We change out these things all the time. Usually because water leaks onto the shaft bearing. I have not come across too many Mode Shifters that short like this but this is good info to know. Replacing one of these Mode Shifters will cost you around $300 parts and labor. Nice video. :)
My washer is agitating and the basket moves to the left while its agitating.. Is that the mode shifter as well?
Had 2 go so far original one leaked water from the center shaft seal!
Excellent! Great explanation and simple solution. Really appreciate you taking the time to create this video for us DYI folks who cringe when faced with the option of having to buy overpriced components or, God forbid, replace increasingly expensive appliances. Thank you!
If it runs on electricity and just suddenly quit it's the damn thermal fuse! I watched a lot of videos. This is the one l needed. Thanks.
Thank you for this video, you just saved me the cost of a mode shifter assembly.
I Did this repair last night, washer is back in working order. Thanks again
Hope you don't mind if I ask you a question. I'm doing this repair myself as you did, and I wanted to know if you went with rivets or screws to reassemble. What size drill bit did you use to drill out old rivets? I would greatly appreciate your response and help. Thank you!
D Runyan a Small tack weld worked for me but a nut and bolt works as well.
I used a metal screw. Its not critical, it just needs to cover the electromagnet and keep it in place.
I used small zip ties after drilling out the rivets. The holes left behind were too large for the self tapping screws I had on hand- not an ideal fix but it is holding up well
Perfectly described. I have the exact same issue. Only thing that could make the video better is showing how to remove the tub to get to coil and whether or not you really need to remove the motor. Otherwise great.
This is the best information on this device i have seen! Thank you. Its my first time coming across the mode shifter!
hey it's also worth mentioning that once I connect the electricity I hear a cling, esp. when the device has been left off for few minutes to completely drain out. Luckily I discovered it is from the Mode Shifter Assembly. This sound is irrelative of washing program activity that is, it happens when the washer is Idel immediately after being plugged in
Background: I dumped too many clothes in the machine. During last cycle it spun violently and I decided to to press switch to shut down. After that it stop agitating or spinning. The water filling is Ok and drain pump works.
Question-1: Does it have control board inside top dash compartment?
Question-2: I found the manual inside the Washer dash panel. It has the drawing of LED location and the Error code chart. But I kept on looking behind the connection plugs and don't see the small green LED. In the dark, there was no blinking. Are all motors for this big-wheel series has the LED?
Question-3: How can I check the motor? I bought a used motor and replaced it but still dead.
Question-4: How can I check the clutch switch without flipping the washer and tear it apart? Can I simply test continuity from the Red+Yellow terminal?
Thanks,
You are a life saver. I did this and it worked. I can't thank you enough.
For safety sake, could you install a external fuse holder with a fuse? Great job on a outside the box repair, btw 👍
youre the man, just fixed my washer thanks to this video. hopefully it doesnt burn the house down lol
mark totton that would be very unlikely. E=IxR and P=IxE good math formulas to know. if you do the math the coil only draws a few Watts.
I'd be more concerned about the LED on the Diagnostics board catching on fire before this coil does.
@@DJHxCxKThen why was the fuse ever installed? To prevent further damage to the coil?
Is it not a safety feature?
what exactly do I see when I take off the rivets, and, how/where is the fuse? just would like to know before I take off the shifter, thanks, a diagram would be cool, thanks
If I am not mistaken, the green light is supposed to flash off and on. Is it not? My thinking is the pattern gives the code. Steady one second intervals indicates no codes. Blink on one second, off two seconds, one flash indicates a fault. On one second, off two, three flashes, etc.
Correct me if I am wrong.
What was your symptoms?
Can a bad shifter cause one to wad clothes?
I think, as he said, mine is flashing green 4 times - which is the error code for "mode shifter coil" - I'll have to say "I really Never liked this GE Profile washer that I bought! It Sucks!
Hey thanks so much for the tutorial! Great explanation and simple solution. Really appreciate you taking the time to create, saved my whasher and expensive and non replacement coil only to find...they sale the hole set with shaft for $150 USD......thanks so mucho, greathings from Baja Mexico.
Nice job.
AUPO
Thermal Fuse cut off.
A4-F
130degrees Centigrade
2Amperes
260 Volts AC
Thanks for that info. I was just about to ask.
Are you saying the fuse is rated at 2 amps?
@@rickeykeeton71- that’s what he saying
Thanks for the info. I never knew about the blinking light or where to find it.
My washer is showing the error code for an open shifter coil (4 flashes). The symptom is that the drum will not go to high-speed spin, although it agitates and otherwise performs properly. I am going to try your fix tonight, I hope that it works!
I *thought* that it was agitating properly before, maybe not.
I did the coil fuse bypass, and it works great. The locking collar is retracted and extended on cue.
But the main problem still exists. The drum will not attain a high-speed spin. After one minute at a moderate speed, instead of "kicking into a high gear", the washer slows the drum and continues to spin at a greatly reduced speed. Bummer.
Great video. Just got one of these.. Needed to know what was up..
Now can tell customer.. not sure I can leave out fuse.. If it were mine I could.
I don't like tearing down old Ge.. washers.. pain.. compared to Old Whirlpool.
Does anyone know the heat spec on the fuse? If Im going to go through the trouble, I might as well spend the $3 and replace the fuse instead of bypassing it. Thanks
$12 for 5 of them. On Amazon.
5 Pcs Aupo Thermal Fuse Cutoff 130c 250V 2A A4-F
Going to all the trouble to bypass it may ad well just replace it.
This is the kind of videos we need on here! I do the same shit, thanks for posting.
Thank you for that what cause the shifter to knock when the washer is washing and how to change the bearing on the shifter
Grat Video. Thanks. I think that is the problem with my machine, I can see the 4 red flash on the board. she fills with water and empties but does not wash or spin. but I wanted to ask you. you should see the motor running when you have this problem ?? Or is it that the engine does not run when it has the problem of the mode shift?? because I don't see the engine running by itself
Question how do you take out the coil without damaging it!
I was sure my my fuse went as the mode shift wasn’t engaging and the basket was spinning not the agitator while in wash . It somehow did reset itself however
Hi, Great vid man, I do Appliance work for a living and be leave me with today's
junk , not like the ninties real machines. you never stop learning....
with all due respect even the 90's machines were absolute junk. you'll have to go back to 70's or 60's before we get machines that lasted over 20 years
So true!
Can you do a video on how the 2 leads red/yellow would look soldered together to the coil it would be helpful thanks bro great video though
With the thermal fuse thrown out or not used, are you not afraid that in the future the coil wire or something else important in the mode shifter assembly will get burnt and damaged due to power surge?
Or just a pic diagram because sounds like you said to not use any other wiring correct?
Can U gain access to the bearing in thet unit and replace it ? Great indepth video while one handed ✋️ !
what is blowing the thgermal fuse? heat from the coil or just old age, maybe somebody from GE could answer this question!
Mine flashes 10 times after I turned it on. Washer will fill in with water and will drain but no agitation and spin. Lid switch, fuse and the control knob panel are okay. What a mess!!
I have a question about the ge Hydro washer. When the washer is agitating and the basket is moving only to the left while in agitation. Is this the issue as well. From what I saw in a video on You tube, When the washer is agitating the basket should be moving left to right. On mine its moving only counter clockwise. And it like a half turn per agitation.
I have a Hydro wave. I believe it changes the agitation cycle 1 direction, then both directions. The top of the agitator only goes 1 direction, the bottom goes both.
Did you ohm out the coil before removing thermal fuse? What kind of reading did you get?
Yes, he did that in the video. With the thermal fuse in series, he was reading open circuit and that's because the thermal fuse was open. When he bypassed the thermal fuse and measured the coil directly, he got 89.7 ohms.
@@JaleelJohanson62- isn’t the very thin copper wire in the coil insulated therefore trying to test continuity is a little difficult? I cut a little 2 inch piece and couldn’t seem to get continuity between that small piece. Then I started wondering is this wire insulated?
@@condor5635 The coil wire is indeed insulated with enamel coating, but the ends of the coil wires are not coated. This is where the electrical connection to the coil is made, and also where you'd want to measure the coil resistance.
@@JaleelJohanson62 - thanks for that if I cut off an inch or two on the ends, how do I remove the enamel such that I can get a good connection? Maybe some steel wool or sandpaper will remove the enamel?
@@condor5635 That or use an exacto knife to scrape off the enamel.
Probably late for a reply but what was the fuse rating or part number? I would like to do this but replace the fuse as well.
5 Pcs Aupo Thermal Fuse Cutoff 130c 250V 2A A4-F
Amazon $12 for 5 fuses
Do u have to take it a part take the drum out to get to that fuse
Thanks for such a helpfull video...i removed the fuse but the coil is giving me 73 ohms. The washer is still not working. What should i do? Is there a place to get the coil only instead of whole assembly?
By the way the LED is showing normal standby....1 sec on/off.
@@imrankhalid7610 did you ever end up fixing yours? I’m in a similar state, LED flashing normal but ohms reading low from the shifter coil around 66ohms. Hate to do all that work and find the shifter isn’t the problem
Good job dude, i fix machines, on the drain pump they have the same thing.
Great tip going to try this on mine, thanks for sharing. I know some electrical motors use this too
If the mode shifter not working the motor would not work ?
Great video I hope it solves my problem that I'm having with mines
So, basically I suck at fixing things. I've taken a lot of things apart, but getting them back together has been a problem. Your video is super informative, and I get the overall idea. I'm sure this is probably a stupid question, but those rivets you drilled out, do they need to be replaced? I've never riveted a damn thing, ever, but I'm not opposed to trying. Sorry for being a noob.
irishboska I used to TIG welder to connect my housing back on but you could use a nut and bolt or a self-tapping screw would be just fine.
irishboska you can probably put a couple of sheet metal screws in there or pop rivets or whatever.
Im getting 73ohms across the coil. I guess its the pc board. Nice informative video!
hi there that cover for the coil you removed rivets with drill how did you put that back on?jusr screwed it?
tino8080 with a tack weld from a TIG welder but a self tapping screw or a nut and bolt will work.
If only i had seen this a while ago i could have saved so much money.
Hello U just bypass is a fuse?
Just disassembled mode shifter to remove thermal fuse. Fuse ohmed out good, but removed it anyway. Figured I went this far. Coil ohms out at 68.9. Any other ideas? I was initially getting the four flashing lights. GE paperwork says replace motor. Please say it isn't so.
It could be purely mechanical such that the gears are not greased good enough to be engaged and disengaged. Therefore the coils is not strong enough to move them.
What size screws did you install where you took the rivets out?
Jerry Rhodes I used a TIG weld but a nut and bolt will work just fine.
What were the symptoms?
Thank you for that info I need info on shifter bearing how to take it out
I like to find out if someone knows how to take that shifter assembly apart? That is my interest. :-)
I just did it. there is a video on here if you look. mine worked well. I replaced the bearing in mine for $4
I made a video on replacing the bearing…. It’s a five dollar part.
OKAY you remove the safety link.... it got hot and blew the fuse.... why did it get HOT ??? so now when it gets HOT ''again'', safety fuse is gone , a fire will happen or wall fuse will pop= then what??? what will you remove then ???
mine has 82 v and with an 90ohm coil you will pull less than 1amp. The wire would probably burn open again before a fire. If you really want to fuse it, put in an inline fuse and put a 2 amp fuse inline with either lead. If you blow fuses, you have some windings shorting..then force to change out the coil..This non resetting fuse is probably a bad idea. Work in electronics daily. She these things go out for no real reason. GREAT Video..I never knew there was one in there. Going to fix mine tomorrow...
My only question is, without a rivet gun, how to reinstall the cover?
bryan burford a welder/ nut bolt/ self tapping screw.
Hi Andrew my name is Javier thanks in advance for your how to video, but i'm not that knowledgeable in electronics is it possible that we could have a step by step guide thanks appreciated have a great day
Javier Palma if you're not that knowledgeable in electronics I would highly suggest finding someone that is to do the repair for you. the use of soldering equipment is required for this repair.
if my washing machine breaks again I will surely make a more in-depth step by step for you.
thanks andrew
Thank you Andrew for sharing with us this genius solution. My washer doesn’t spin or agitate at all. After closing in on I was left to either of two faulty parts . The Mode Shifter Assembly and the Motor. I tested out the two leads coming from the Shifter at 200 Ohmmeter (Rx1) and I came up with 70 ohms. Does that mean it’s working properly?
I also noticed that the LED Flash on Motor controller board isn’t working , I’m afraid the board might be the source of the problem!! The drive motor looks in a pretty good condition and for more diagnostics I tested out the two internal leads coming out from the dynamo for continuity and the Multimeter peeps and the resistance reading is 1 - 0.9ohm. The Schematics provided by the company for control plate shows a fuse that I can’t seem to locate? I would appreciate if you could point me out in the right direction cuz it would be inconvenient to replace the whole motor especially that I have to find away to ship overseas which is way too expensive for me.
Jason Stockholm I too have the same issue, I replaced the inverter motor still nothing. Washer fills and drains water, however, doesn't spin or agitate. What was your fix. Appreciate any info. Thanks in advance.
Make sure that you blow out the boards on the motor with some compressed air. I was looking for the little green LED and couldn't see it until I blew it out.
A little late response-wise but perhaps it might benefit someone else.
Not free though.... You invested a good amount of time to take the machine apart down to this level in order to get at the shifter coil. I'll bet it took an afternoon to do that and then re-assemble the washer. Worth it for the homeowner with an open afternoon, but way too costly to pay someone to do it for you.
Good info, but the camera work drove me to drink!
Lacking information on reconnecting wires to the coil. 👎
just cut the wire from the fuse and solder the two together.
profesor muy interesante el video pero no entiendo el ingles solo me puedo intruir por la imagen
I will do this fix tho the mode shifter of my ge washer
Thanks! Very helpful.
Lo cambie y se volvió a quemar
Porque se daña esta bobina
like, sub and added to fav.
Porque se daña esta bobina