Sorry for the numerous comments but THANK YOU for the tutorial on this design. The washer has been discontinued but I still see quite a few of them in the field and always wondered about the internals of this motor with that board.
You are lucky. When my mother's microwave oven failed she spent a Sunday afternoon with me trying to fix it, and I did. The next time I visited her she bought a new one and threw the old one out.
The motor may not be shorted right now but it is close to toast. Partly carbonised insulating varnish sooner or later will give in at operating voltage/current.
isn't the black and blue wire connector DC in? why would a temp cutout circuit need such thick wires? you could wire a temp cutout into the 3-phase system
I am glad in ran into your video. I have got the same exact thing going on here on my table. I am wondering how many volts did youi apply. I went ahead and chanced it and plugged into the 110 outlet and it began to take off. I unplugged it om split second. I wasn''t sure what role the capacitor would be playing. My capacitor came from another washing machine induction motor ( Kenmore). It is hard reading it but guessing from the writing, it appears to be around 250 uf. When I ran it without the capacitor it just hums like yours. I am wondering if I can run the motor with the capacitor on because I like to use it for other projects. The motor seem rather quiet new, nothing wrong with it. I checked them transistors as you did, they all read around 5.30V I got this washing machine from some motel that was junking it as someone told them the controller was shot. Come to think of it, I should have not taking apart, But I had no idea that one can trouble diagnose these things following their instruction. But that is another story. Now I just want to use the motor. So I don't know what the three phase with this motor means, What should be the voltages? Thanks.
A lot of electronics for a motor but I guess it's cheaper than a mechanical transmission. Makes me wonder about my own machine, gives off a slight burning motor smell when worked. If it moves North with me I may have to take a look. This is one that could be found quickly with a non-contact thermometer.
@@JohnAudioTech To the immediate right of the bench. I'd really like to remove one of the built in cabinets/bench along the wall, but it is very firmly installed. If I sell the old set I'd get something more compact, maybe stackable.
@@iceberg789 , I'd never do that xD. I already have a couple of Toshiba 2sc5200 and BEL 2n3773 here. And, if I need, I'll buy some MJE15024 for higher power. I am using BD 139 as the bias spreader.
@@anindyamitra5091 you should try that. later you can add those beefy output stages, it should not be much hassle, but a beautiful hands-on exercise. you may also like the sound they make.
A couple of observations - IGBTs are used at high voltage because they are less sensitive to high voltage transients coupling back to the gate electrode than MOSFETs. Unlike MOSFETs they have a definite forward voltage when conducting of around 1.5 to 2.5V, which makes them inefficient for low-voltage circuits. They are also a lot slower to switch than MOSFETs as they are a minority-carrier device, PWM rates of a few kHz are typically used, not tens of kHz. I wouldn't be surprized if the driver chip for the IGBT gates was faulty, triggering the IGBT to fail, nor if it was high voltage related failure of the IGBT itself. I am surprized the thing didn't just use an "intelligent power module" - basically a 3-phase IGBT bridge in a single package, that would simplify the board. And finally it seems the single thermal cutout isn't enough to detect winding overheating in a 3-phase induction motor, which is pretty obvious if they had thought about it.
Well, what did I do? I wasn't paying attention and I ran mine for a minute or more. Did I short something inside at 60 microfarade? If so what should I do now? Nothing smoked, no heat anywhere that I felt. However it appears it has copped an attitude. It doesn't want to run by means of capacitor if you will and I don't have a three phase 150 supply, although I have 220 three phase supply using an LG washing machine Bldc. I am almost certain I shorted out between two leads where I hooked up the capacitor. Any ideas? :-) I am sure I have he same motor. 150 volts 3 phase.
I have one of these motors, that I am attempting to convert to use as a small tool motor. Is there any way to wire these to run on a standard 120v plug (US) ? I can't seem to find anything with google searches/youtube searches. Thanks!
I just salvaged one of these motors today. Looking up how to power it was not going well until I found your video here, and it's perfect. I'm still uncertain about a few things but once I get more info hopefully it will help. Nice job.
Did you hook it to your basic household 110v outlet with capacitor to the middle terminal? Is that how you are and been operating it or? I just did the same thing but I unplugged it. It ran very nice for a second before I unplugged it. I am not familiar using capacitor in this manner.
@@alchemy1 I haven't tested that yet. I was able to get it to rotate but in an odd way. Turns out it will run on its own if you spin the shaft, but you need way more torque than normal. The way I found this out is I was driving it with a 2 pole dishwasher motor, then got the idea to power the 3 phase motor while it was being belt driven, and when I did this and pulled the belt off, it ran on its own. Pretty overcomplicated but it worked. Of course I still want to try the capacitor method and eventually turn towards getting a VFD.
@@JohnAudioTech You can always buy a used Whirlpool Direct Drive or Newton Built Maytag Washer which were made in the 1990s into the early 2000s if your GE Washer craps out again.
Hello, I thought you could help me, I have a ge gtwn4250, my main board failed, even though I have looked for the service manual I have not found it, but I have seen manuals for similar motors that in the C4 connector that have 5 terminals and to do a test in spin mode, pin 5 and pin 2 should have 12 vdc equal to between pin 5 to 4, 12 vdc, but the motor I have is the same as the one in the video, the c4 connector only has 3 cables, How could I run the motor directly without the main board, the 12 v only just vdc or is it a pulsing signal with some frequency? , the motor card is good, the main card is the one that is wrong, I need to know the voltages and the waveform, to be able to start the motor without the main card, if you could help me I would appreciate it very much.
That motor looks as though it's hardly done any work! How old was the appliance... and was it still under warranty? When i meet broken down washing machines they're often filthy, dusty, dirty, rusty things inside that have done years and years of service, & the owner says they just can't afford a new one so can i make the lowest cost possible repair to get it going for a bit longer.
![Seungmin "그렇게, 천천히, 우리(As we are)" | [Stray Kids : SKZ-PLAYER]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/kAzmhLHePqU/mqdefault.jpg)
Sorry for the numerous comments but THANK YOU for the tutorial on this design. The washer has been discontinued but I still see quite a few of them in the field and always wondered about the internals of this motor with that board.
You are lucky. When my mother's microwave oven failed she spent a Sunday afternoon with me trying to fix it, and I did. The next time I visited her she bought a new one and threw the old one out.
Good stuff! Love the hands-on theory here, duly posted in EEVblog's Repair section under "sticky" *Repair Documents and Links*
great video, please more like this troubleshooting common appliance
The motor may not be shorted right now but it is close to toast. Partly carbonised insulating varnish sooner or later will give in at operating voltage/current.
It will be getting a proper death before hitting the scrap metal pile.
isn't the black and blue wire connector DC in? why would a temp cutout circuit need such thick wires? you could wire a temp cutout into the 3-phase system
I am glad in ran into your video. I have got the same exact thing going on here on my table. I am wondering how many volts did youi apply. I went ahead and chanced it and plugged into the 110 outlet and it began to take off. I unplugged it om split second. I wasn''t sure what role the capacitor would be playing. My capacitor came from another washing machine induction motor ( Kenmore). It is hard reading it but guessing from the writing, it appears to be around 250 uf. When I ran it without the capacitor it just hums like yours.
I am wondering if I can run the motor with the capacitor on because I like to use it for other projects. The motor seem rather quiet new, nothing wrong with it.
I checked them transistors as you did, they all read around 5.30V
I got this washing machine from some motel that was junking it as someone told them the controller was shot. Come to think of it, I should have not taking apart, But I had no idea that one can trouble diagnose these things following their instruction. But that is another story. Now I just want to use the motor. So I don't know what the three phase with this motor means, What should be the voltages?
Thanks.
A lot of electronics for a motor but I guess it's cheaper than a mechanical transmission. Makes me wonder about my own machine, gives off a slight burning motor smell when worked. If it moves North with me I may have to take a look. This is one that could be found quickly with a non-contact thermometer.
Where would you put them? Move your bench around?
@@JohnAudioTech To the immediate right of the bench. I'd really like to remove one of the built in cabinets/bench along the wall, but it is very firmly installed. If I sell the old set I'd get something more compact, maybe stackable.
Exelente video amigo muchas gracias me ayudó para reparar mi lavadora un saludo desde mexico
Hi how you doing got a question for you. The same y working on mind spining very slow. Any inf. Or help.
When is the PT12 (or PT11.4) of the discrete audio amplifier build project coming up?
PT12 will be very soon. Maybe the next video.
@@JohnAudioTech , thank you, I am eagerly waiting for it.
meanwhile you can try experimenting with a bd139-140 o/p stage. xD
@@iceberg789 , I'd never do that xD. I already have a couple of Toshiba 2sc5200 and BEL 2n3773 here. And, if I need, I'll buy some MJE15024 for higher power.
I am using BD 139 as the bias spreader.
@@anindyamitra5091 you should try that. later you can add those beefy output stages, it should not be much hassle, but a beautiful hands-on exercise. you may also like the sound they make.
A couple of observations - IGBTs are used at high voltage because they are less sensitive to high voltage transients
coupling back to the gate electrode than MOSFETs. Unlike MOSFETs they have a definite forward voltage when conducting
of around 1.5 to 2.5V, which makes them inefficient for low-voltage circuits. They are also a lot slower to switch than MOSFETs as they are a minority-carrier device, PWM rates of a few kHz are typically used, not tens of kHz.
I wouldn't be surprized if the driver chip for the IGBT gates was faulty, triggering the IGBT to fail, nor if it was high voltage related
failure of the IGBT itself.
I am surprized the thing didn't just use an "intelligent power module" - basically a 3-phase IGBT bridge in a single package, that would simplify the board.
And finally it seems the single thermal cutout isn't enough to detect winding overheating in a 3-phase induction motor, which is pretty obvious if they had thought about it.
how does the igbt fail ?
Did you ever fix the inverter and the washer?
Well, what did I do? I wasn't paying attention and I ran mine for a minute or more. Did I short something inside at 60 microfarade?
If so what should I do now? Nothing smoked, no heat anywhere that I felt. However it appears it has copped an attitude. It doesn't want to run by means of capacitor if you will and I don't have a three phase 150 supply, although I have 220 three phase supply using an LG washing machine Bldc. I am almost certain I shorted out between two leads where I hooked up the capacitor.
Any ideas? :-)
I am sure I have he same motor. 150 volts 3 phase.
I have one of these motors, that I am attempting to convert to use as a small tool motor. Is there any way to wire these to run on a standard 120v plug (US) ? I can't seem to find anything with google searches/youtube searches. Thanks!
I just salvaged one of these motors today. Looking up how to power it was not going well until I found your video here, and it's perfect. I'm still uncertain about a few things but once I get more info hopefully it will help. Nice job.
Did you hook it to your basic household 110v outlet with capacitor to the middle terminal? Is that how you are and been operating it or?
I just did the same thing but I unplugged it. It ran very nice for a second before I unplugged it. I am not familiar using capacitor in this manner.
@@alchemy1 I haven't tested that yet. I was able to get it to rotate but in an odd way. Turns out it will run on its own if you spin the shaft, but you need way more torque than normal. The way I found this out is I was driving it with a 2 pole dishwasher motor, then got the idea to power the 3 phase motor while it was being belt driven, and when I did this and pulled the belt off, it ran on its own.
Pretty overcomplicated but it worked. Of course I still want to try the capacitor method and eventually turn towards getting a VFD.
Hello dear do have still this borad I need
Is this from a GE Hydrowave Washer?
Not sure, the rest of the unit is long gone.
@@JohnAudioTech You can always buy a used Whirlpool Direct Drive or Newton Built Maytag Washer which were made in the 1990s into the early 2000s if your GE Washer craps out again.
Hello, I thought you could help me, I have a ge gtwn4250, my main board failed, even though I have looked for the service manual I have not found it, but I have seen manuals for similar motors that in the C4 connector that have 5 terminals and to do a test in spin mode, pin 5 and pin 2 should have 12 vdc equal to between pin 5 to 4, 12 vdc, but the motor I have is the same as the one in the video, the c4 connector only has 3 cables, How could I run the motor directly without the main board, the 12 v only just vdc or is it a pulsing signal with some frequency? , the motor card is good, the main card is the one that is wrong, I need to know the voltages and the waveform, to be able to start the motor without the main card, if you could help me I would appreciate it very much.
That motor looks as though it's hardly done any work! How old was the appliance... and was it still under warranty? When i meet broken down washing machines they're often filthy, dusty, dirty, rusty things inside that have done years and years of service, & the owner says they just can't afford a new one so can i make the lowest cost possible repair to get it going for a bit longer.
It has 2013 date codes so it isn't that old.
No Snickers?
Totally Snickerless. 😞
He was on the bench just before I started. I guess I didn't meet his co-star payment requirements.
Poor thing
seriously? dude there are 10 million cat videos out there
@@mojoblues66 There are 10 million and one now.
Brilliant
Great detailed video!!
My indesit failed a few weeks back luckily I have a neighbour Jamaica Glenn
He diagnosed the control board an he will show me how to fit it
ATB buddy
Ok I'm lost here. The cap. That came out of this washer has 5 connectors one is ground
How does this motor start up
Nice video man, see ya
Lol. Looks on floor. All the parts from my old dishwasher. Yeah. Silicon coating, aint that a bitch :) Great vid
Seggie Fault
Can you please help me
The same fun is to be had with electric cars.
Such an incredibly over engineered top load washer and for what, to reverse the rotation and monitor speed. Waste
I have that motor, $150, u pay the shipping but too late now.