How to Remove an Engine - 2002-2005 Ford Explorer
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- Опубликовано: 25 авг 2024
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Whats up guys! Today I removed the engine from my Explorer to replace the rear main seal! I figured I'd make a video showing you all the steps and tricks in removing the engine. Hope you enjoy!
This video is how to remove the engine on a Ford Explorer (gotta put this so people find it lol).
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Disclaimer:
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Ive been a Diesel mechanic and instructor for close to 19 years. I often will watch a RUclips video before a project just to see what I’m getting into. This young guy impressed me with his tool knowledge and attention to detail. Keep up the good work bud!
I was impressed myself. I’m 63 and hired a young man mobile mechanic to replace the valve cover / intake gaskets on my 03 yesterday. 400.00 I definitely didn’t want to tackle this one. Funny, you mention diesel. I have a 2001 7.3 with zero diesel mechanic knowledge RUclips has taught me. Currently adding the cnc 4 fuel lines and HPOP.
New wire harness and just got the KC turbo. Fun project. Also got the LPOP
with new radiator and intercooler.
In my 30s my Camaro project was fun
But never imagined, diesels being exciting . Lol love that torque and black smoke.
I've been planning on V8 swapping my 05 and this video will definitely help me when I get to the stage where I pull the old 4.0 out. I can't tell you how many times I've watched a "how to" video that was terrible and more unhelpful than going in blind. This was the exact opposite. Thanks for taking the time and effort to do this right.
Yo good job man very helpful. I've been dealing with this nightmare of an engine for a long time. And out of all the videos for dealing with that engine. You did it the best. You didn't miss a thing and you made it digestible for anyone with a piece of comment since to understand. Most professionals can't do that so good job. Downside I have to deal with my ptsd from all of the resurfacing memories. Before I start with my timing chain tensioner guide replacement and inspect the rest of the components. But you saved me from a huge mistake. I almost started this exhausted thank you.
What year is the mustang?
I had a timing chain guide break and crack one of my valve covers, the haynes manual was useless. But, between this and Makuloco I'll be able to actually get the engine out and change out all the timing components.
Thank you.
Awesome! Glad I could help out.
You an thousands of others
Hey buddy your vid’s are the exception… really appreciate your attention to detail and attitude… I’m in. 05 sport trac that Was a fire chiefs ride that I picked up at auction. Been a good ride. Had the death riddle for a long time and couldn’t figure what it was. Thought it might have been the tension pulley. I drove this thing around the country from Seattle to Florida to Texas,to New York, to Maine and back. I was out back here in Washington and the front cassette finally broke off and got a crazy grinding sound and suddenly overheated and busted the seems on the radiator… I milked it back to a buddies house and parked it. Thank God it didn’t bust somewhere out in the desert or in some places fare and away. I’ve got it all tore down now and ready to pull the engine. Just the bell housing bolts and motor mounts to go. I bought a full timing kit. The rear top #30 torques bolt head was destroyed buy the chain. So all that said I have a question… can you tell me what the thread is for the bolts on the cherry picker hoist that bolt into the head to lift her out? It would be appreciated. I’ve got to go rent a set up.
Thanks again for your videos…
Peace and health young man….
M10x1.5
That whole jobs looks like it sucks! No wonder people scrap with timing belt problems. Bless you for having balls to complete!
Just dropped my engine in a 2006 4.0 v6 manual Ford Mustang using this guide. Some things were slightly different, but thanks for this guide. Looking forward to looking at the cassettes to troubleshoot the infamous Ford death rattle using your timing kit replacement guide. If you have merch I'd love to buy some.
Thanks for this video! I'm in the process of replacing mine from my 2004 ford explorer.
How did it go? I’m thinking about doing mine as well
@@DexxBrooks it was a lot of work . We ran thru a couple issues. And It was a tough job with lining up the torque converter. Took a week to finish. Its in good condition now but I'm always running into issue with fords, it's a headache lol. I put it up for sale.
The torque converter is the worst part on any vehicle that I work on.
@@iamdjnam not only that but after I replaced the engine, my cats were clogged and had to replace that. Which Idk why that happened. Everything was fine then it wouldn't accelerate. I'm like great, now what.
Although I am usually hesitant about making modifications like cutting a hole to access the lower radiator bolt, your idea is pretty ingenious! Very good video! Thank you for sharing and keep up the good work. I feel you as a guy who does this kind of work while juggling work and home duties. It sucks but better than paying a garage $3000 to do.
For sure. Unfortunately removing the radiator correctly requires evacuation of the AC. Blowing it off into atmosphere is illegal and I’d much rather make a small cut than destroy the ozone.
I’m guessing it’s the same set up as the 4.6 L engine model. If you remove the front bumper there are access holes in the frame that you can stick a socket through and get to the bolts.
@@iamdjnam fck the ozone. Is this the same as doing a motor swap on a 2004 mountaneer?
Yup
@@iamdjnam Can I do it with a 100 point IQ, or do I need a smarter person? I have a mountaneer with bad timing. The shop wants 2000 for labor, and so I'm gonna attempt it. Can a regular dude do it? Is everything I need to know on thus video? Thanks for your response fam.
Thanks for making this video. I had my 04 removed twice for timing chains and oil leaks. Trans rebuild too. Finally ended up getting both replaced with jaspers eng and trans
Hey if you take your torx and grind a bit off the end it will fit just a little bit more snug on. When I say a little bit I mean not much at all… I use this trick on torx drivers that are a little bit worn on the end already
Thes is a simple very good idea….I catch you…..
Ty brotha your series has been a life saver just wanted to thank you fr
Great content man im be pulling mine tomorrow
Patience and Cold Beer
Are THE Most Important Tools Required for this Project 🤣🤣🤣
Thanks for Sharing Your Knowledge!!!
Very Impressive for a Young Man 👍
I have an 02 Ranger 4.0 SOHC that has the ford death rattle…
Plus it’s running rather Ruff🤔
I’m guessing it’s jumped time but i honestly don’t know for sure 🤷♂️
Just Saved one of your videos on that and Subscribed!!!
Thanks Again Young Man 👍👍👍
Easy Peezy. Very standard stuff!....Thanks....just purchased a 2008, 200k, got a rebuilt Trans still under warranty, Engine runs smooth.....probably gonna run it till it blows up, Lol.
Great video very helpful. I was hesitant to start grinding at the vehicle but was able to loosen the trans cooler and shift it up a bit and access that bottom radiator bolt from the front with a couple extensions and a socket wrench not a lot faster but avoided the grinder...still leaving it out when I re install though.
When it doubt grind it out
Thanks.good to know.
👍🏻
Thank.
Do you have the part of the video where the transmission is disconnected?. I don't see where you mentioned taking off the torque converted nuts.
He mentioned you have to take them off through the starter hole with a 14mm socket.
Glad u making this. I got a 2005 ford explorer. My rear main seal was bad but i kept driving it and it quit on me. Need to take mine out rebuild and put back in.
It'll be an identical process. My rear main actually pushed out a bit and wasn't seated flush. Hope the new one stays dry!
@@iamdjnam what all damage u believe was done to my engine being that I drove it in low oil until it quit while driving? Can it be rebuilt? Will I need a machine shop ?
@@bryantb6100 Get a different engine. Lack of oil scores the journals, cylinders, cam lobes are probably gone. I've had to buy separate cylinder heads just because they were worn out. If you rebuild it with bad heads you will have oil pressure problems.
Just started video. Love the text at the beginning spot on partner. Just from the beginning I knew this is the one I wanna put on the big screen. He he.
You Did well..I been through it... kudo's!!!
Great job my 2002 explorer just blew with 114,000 looking to replace with a recondition 4.0, I WAS TOLD THE AC HAS TO BE TAKEN APART BUT YOU SET IT TO THE SIDE INTACT ? i'm in my 60's bad back hope i can do it, wish i had your help.
AC does not need to be taken apart. I left it charged and off to the side. If you’re in NJ id swap it in for ya! I have 2 titanium rods in my back so mine isn’t much better than yours hahaha
CANT BELIEVE YOU PULLED THAT MOTOR IN A HALF HOUR!
LOL!
Should change your RUclips name to the FordExploderKing 😅. For real tho man, im a tech of 20+ yrs and learned several tips from your vids so thanx
The one bolt I was hoping for info on for the engine/trans and u didnt even put it back in? Lol. Its ok i figured it out. U can access all the upper engine to trans bolts through the wheel wells (Didnt wanna do it) but being on light duty per doctors orders for one shoulder. I literally dislocated my other shoulder trying to reach back from above. Its ok people i popped it back into place and am still doing this motor swap. Your video is awesome btw as it helped me out a lot. This is by far my first motor swap but boy this aint nothing like the lima 2.3l lol
Yeah my scrawny spaghetti arms fit just fine from up top
Wow! You make it look so easy!
Great instructional video man. Good content. Showing support
Much appreciated thank you!!
Great , now I can start the job
Appreciate your help
Thx
Awesome! Take your time, label lots. You’ll do great!
I am INTRIGUED! This is AMAZING! For a first timer how long would you say it should take someone to remove their engine? 🤔
A good whole day. 6 hours.
What header are you using?
I'm back after watching the videos months ago you helped a lot but after 11 months it jumped time after one day. Can't we pin the cam and jack shaft gears, it always makes me nervous with just super tight bolts. I've don't a couple of these motors before and have the holding tool.
What a great video, thank you for taking the time to do this. This is the best video about this out there by far. I'm thinking my head gasket is leaking because I'm losing coolant and I've replaced rad, thermostat housing, thermostat, coolant temp sensor, heater control valve and most of the hoses. Anyways, she's not building pressure and I'm losing coolant internally. Is there a brand of head gasket you use or recommend? There's a lot out there and I plan on getting the whole set with the new tty bolts, I'll also do the timing chains while it's out and maybe the rear main too. I got a 2002 Eddie baurer with 219,250 miles. Thanks for the help!
I use Felpro and DNJ. For a timing kit use Melling or Ford. Both are very good. At that mileage you may want to consider a total rebuild. That engines best years are behind it.
@@iamdjnam ok awesome, thank you for the advice! I hope I can do a rebuild on my driveway since I don't have a garage lol
It may be cost effective to buy an engine with 100k, replace all of the timing components as maintenance, and drop it in.
GREAT INFORMATION MAN!!!
Thank u bro!!
I've got to do a rear main seal in my 03 explorer I'm just going to pull the engine to do it and replace my torque converter too while it's out. I think it would be easier to pull the engine than the transmission. Great video
If I did it again, I'd pull the trans. I had no idea how easy it was to pull one. Bellhousing bolts, torque converter nuts, exhaust, harness, driveshafts, crossmember. Done.
@@iamdjnam hi, first I like your videos , I have a 2008 ford explorer 4.0 with 93000 miles I'm hearing rattle I'm gonna replacing the 2 chain tensioner and hopefully that fix it. If I need your services I'm located on long island ny, are you close by?
@@showme20able yes located in central NJ
@@iamdjnam ok cool. I'll contact you when in need thank you and have a bless day.
I just noticed you didn't have to take off the wheels/hub/bearing assembly at all. makes sense cuz all that would go to the trans not the engine... duh...was trying to talk my rebuilder into replacing the front bearings and lower control arm lol i was thinking he'd have to do it anyways but dagnabit lol
Great video... straight to the point
That’s the plan 💪🏻
@@iamdjnam thinking about getting 04 mountaineer that apparently the timing chain grenaded... not sure front or back, but I'm assuming it will be easier to just put new motor 🤷
Alwaysb
Masterful videos! I've been watching your journey and it's awesome! Would this be completely different from removing the engine for a 2006 Ford Ranger Engine Bay?
Thank you for your video 🙏
Thank you
I found it easier just to remove the mounting bolts on the sides of the radiator and remove all of it except the A/C radiator.
Thanks! I have a 97 3.0l 4x4 and I'm trying to take out the motor without the trans, and was having trouble with the clearance issue.
Definitely a tight squeeze without removing the radiator. The harmonic balancer sticks out so far.
@@iamdjnam Radiator is out. Harmonic balancer? Don't believe I know what that is. I'll have to do some research.
to replace the head gaskets, do you have to take the engine off ?
Yes
@@iamdjnam what if is just the gasket on the driver side
Great Videos, Thank you!
T b is helpful thank you!😊😊
Thank you for the knowledge!!!
100% happy to share!!!
Im taking out my 2006 Ford Ranger 4.0L SOHC out and I was wondering if I have to discharge the A/C or can I move it aside?
Move it aside
Hey, thanks for the video. Can i ask where you learned how to work on cars?
On my 17th birthday I got an 03 explorer. I bought a Haynes manual and slowly started doing small repairs. Spark plugs, oil change, things like that. When the engine blew it forced me to step up and remove/rebuild with no knowledge. Read, read, read. Take your time. I’m now 22 and thankful that I know so much.
@@iamdjnam very cool, your a smart guy. Keep up the good work
Great video, is it me or do you have a fan for your condenser and does it help for your ac, i have an 2002 explorer and was planing on doing the same.
No fan. I live in NJ so I spend more time freezing than sweating. I do have a aftermarket transmission cooler because the number one killer of transmissions is heat.
Thanks for this !
Sure thing!
Where are you located & do you jobs i have a 08 explorer needing an engine or rebuilt 1st ford ive ever owned & that whole timing thing got me scared on a used engine also rear seal but looking to get it taken care of im in Burton michigan
What bolts do you use on the load leveler into the heads? I’m down to the bottom 2 bell housing bolts and the motor mounts. Then she comes out tomorrow!
I use a bellhousing bolt in the front, then the bolt that holds the harness in place (on the back of the head) in the rear.
use the bolts that came out of the mounting brackets for your accessories just make sure your chain/plates whatever your gonna connect to are bolted tight (no Slack) so you won't bend a bolt. some people take little metal plates with a bolt hole and a larger hole to shackle a chain too
@@WilliamBush1967 if you use the accessories bolts, it won’t clear agains the firewall
Do I have to remove the motor to replace the head gaskets???
Man this video has really helped me put allot..thanks..I had one question..do you remove the engine with tranny in Park or neutral or does it make any difference?
Doesn’t make a difference. I put it in park so it doesn’t roll
Hey My brottha can You tell me if i can use a zipbelts to take out the engine or had to ve with specific chains, You think that can be posible?
Love the video,
Great videos man. I'm working on removing the engine from my 06 explorer right now. I have all the bellhousing bolts and flexplate nuts removed. Also both engine mounts removed. I can't get the engine to un mate with the bellhousing. Any suggestions??
Make sure you got all 8 bellhousing bolts.
How similar is this to a 2001? I've got an 01 sport 5 speed that's about to go, and I need to replace the motor entirely, it lived a rough life before I bought it, only got about 3 or 4k out of it and she's about gone.
There is any way to change the back cassette guide on the motor without take the motor out of the truck????? Explorer sport trac 2002 thanks 🙏🏽
No. Remove the engine or drop the transmission.
@@iamdjnam man for real? Lol ok I’ll try my best and thanks for the videos body they really help me 👍🏼
@@luiszavala978 yeah bro the bolt to hold the guide in is behind the trans. Such a stupid design.
@@iamdjnam lol it is man lol thanks do 🙏🏽
@@iamdjnam thank you for the video bro, even if you don’t notice, you help a lot 🌎 thank you for that🙏🏽
Can you tell me what I need to do as far as removing the transmission cooler lines that are on a bracket on the front right of the engine that lead to the transmission cooler? I've removed the bolt but it doesn't appear the lines can pull forward enough to slip off the stud mounted in the block. Do the transmission lines need to be removed from the transmission? Thank u for taking the time to make this video as it has been helpful.
It will slip off the threaded stud. Just muscle it off.
Just be confident bro.
Do I need to un bolt my torque converter before I fully pull it out
Yes
The hose on behind the throttle it you disconnected it from the throttle but where does the other end go?! 16:06
Mine disconnected an i cant find where to connect it back
To a hose near the wheel well
Was there a pilot bushing in the back of the engine for the tranny? Great video by the way thank you for the little details helps a bunch thanks again.!!
There was not.
I'm in the process right now meeting my engine to my transmission. Did you fully bolt up the engine and transmission torque converter etc then lower it onto the engine mounts?
Get the torque converter studs through the flywheel. Get the engine block dowels mated to the transmission. Put only those 2 dowel bellhousing bolts in. Then put your motor mounts on and lower the hoist. Don’t bolt everything up at once. Do that after the hoist is removed.
Take a look at the other video on my channel “how to install a 4.0 engine”
@@iamdjnam you're the best
Did u had to refill the torque converter bolts with transmission fluid before you started to bolt together
How difficult would it be to swap to 4.0 out and put a 4.6 in?
Just buy a 4.6 explorer. The bell housing is different. Your transmission won’t fit. You’d need 4.6 engine harness and ECU
@@iamdjnam oh thanks
Gotta pull my 4.0 out anyways
So figured I'm might look into putting a 4.6 in it
How long do you usually take to pull out an engine? It took me 8 hours for my first time😭
Back when I started it took a day. Now its 2 hours but only because i know every bolt size and order of operations
Your videos are great but you did not show anything about if there is easy access to the torque converter bolts which can be a real pain on some cars.
I need help! I have removed all bell housing bolts and torque converter bolts, it won’t budge! Help!
8 bellhousing bolts, 4 torque converter nuts. After that pry with a bad inbewteen the block and bellhousing.
I liked the video I also tried to save the ac system but I butchered the removal of the radiator so bad I’m not sure I’ll get it back together...anyways my hang up right now is the 4 torque converter bolts. I have used every 14mm socket I own but they all slip before I can get them tight... is it a two man job of do you use a thin walled socket?
No. They shouldn’t slip unless someone rounded them off.
@@iamdjnam they are definitely not rounded but they are so close to the lip of the flywheel that every socket I try..mind you I’m holding another ratchet on the front of the motor with one hand and trying to tighten the torque converter bolts and they run into that lip and get squeezed off the nut before they get even close to set
Ohhhh ok I understand now. I use a husky 14mm deep. Maybe that helps. Not sure.
I getting ready to change my timing chain in my 2007 explorer. Which is way more than anything I've ever done. I do have a friend that help me some. The engine has 170000 on it do think I should just go ahead and change the rear main seal while it's out?
Yes but there are 2 styles. The one with the metal sleeve requires a special installation tool.
Any recommendations on replacement timing component brands? I have heard oem parts for timing are the way to go but am considering Ultra-Power, Cloyes, or Melling components over oem to save a few bucks as I would be happy to get 2 more years out of my Explorer. Anyone have any thoughts?
I’ve used Melling and Preferred Components with no issues whatsoever. In my fathers truck and my aunts truck. They both daily them. Not a single noise from both.
Ford fomoco parts for me. No issues ether
Same my green truck has ford parts, 50k strong right now.
In your opinion.... how long would it take 2 people to do the job from pulling the old motor and getting the new one in?
2-3 days for a beginner
05 Ford Explorer got everything mostly off taking all the front clip off to pull my engine bc my dad had an accident and the guy hit my rear right wheel and it shut off and wouldn’t start and broke a timing chain or jumped timing but going to go ahead and put a new motor and transmission in
Awesome!! I wish u all the best. Hope your dad is okay!
@@iamdjnam yeah he is thank u man I appreciate
I can get to everything but the left most starter bolt.
Also how do you access the torque converter bolts
Gotta take the starter out to get to the nuts
I have a 2002 sohc and the coil pack is at the rear of the engine and the intake snorkel also comes out the front of the manifold unlike yours. I’m planning on putting the engine in a 4wd 2007 explorer with a similar layout to yours. Will it all match up and work out still? It’s out of a 2wd ranger.
The longblock is identical but you will need to use all of the accessories from the vehicle it’s going in.
Hello PG. A question for ya'. I'm now down to the exhaust. Is it possible to cut off the exhaust right after the CCs (or before) and remove engine to save some anxiety. Kinda like you kept your A/C intact. You can always put back together after removing the manifolds a lot easier on the shop floor out of the truck and without the engine in.
comment 1: I found another removal video stating the intake manifold bolds were T27...WRONG! awaiting a victim to round out.
comment 2: TRICK My #7 bolt started to strip. A hard seed found it's way right on the top of the screw, blowing didn't remove. It started to strip. If you stop immediately. Go find a security T35 at the store. It has a center hole. (which went over the hard seed) I tapped this bit down and became cozy tight, then "SNAP" SUCCESS!!! When I took apart, I found the pieces of a hard seed inside the T35 bit. BOY!, I was lucky!
I wouldn’t cut the cats. Cut the studs or get the nuts off. Even cutting it post cat may not clear the trans bell housing.
Thank you for making this. I'm pulling the engine on my '03 to replace the timing chains. The repair manual says on 4WD models to pull the front driveaxles and remove the transfer case. WTF are they talking about? Is the 4WD different from the AWD?
Dude the repair manual is out of its mind. Axles have nothing to do with the engine swap. I left all mine in.
i have a 4WD 2004 ranger XLT with the 4.0 with the 5 speed manual transmission. am i correct to assume that the majority of pulling the motor from the truck would be quite similar to this? trans was tentatively planned to be pulled for a clutch job anyway beginning of summer. im not sure exactly what happened to my 4.0 yet ( happened yesterday haven't had the time to dig in yet with having to work) but out of the blue got a real bad misfire (code reader only showed 1 code. misfire cylinder 6) i was about 5 minutes from home on fairly flat land so i tried to baby it home thinking bad coil or wire. it worked for about 2 minutes and stalled coasted for about a minute and it wouldn't crank and had to tow it home with my silverado. i couldn't turn the motor forward by hand but i was able turn it backwards by hand. i went about a half a pulley rotation backwards and the starter gave it 2 good cranks and it stopped again i really didn't want to do that the first time and i don't dare to do it again. every search i do for things to watch for when i dig into it seems to bring up a half a million posts about replacing timing components (which is how i found your videos). half of my brain tells me if this motor can be salvaged im going to have to pull it and im just trying to figure out if its worth the effort on a 237k mile motor or if its time to part with the truck.
It’s time to part ways with that high mileage and tired out engine.
@@iamdjnam finally had a day off that was decent outside probably about a week after you replied. valve spring broke and dropped the valve. the head and piston are screwed, cylinder wall is surprisingly fine. anyway.. picked up a used motor today and following your advice I'm replacing the timing cassettes as well. (actually getting the gears, chains and tensioners too). after some back and forth I've decided before I put it in I'm pro-actively replacing seals and gaskets. i know the motor runs so I don't know if I dare mess with the head gaskets until it's needed. my luck I'd go to do them and be stuck with warped heads and a weak seal.
Great video ...
So what do you figure number of hours to pull it - not considering EGR/manifolds being stuck. And engine being first time out.
Losing coolant so thinking head gaskets and in truck while possible too much of a pain
I replace around 2 a month now; so I have it down to a science. Takes me about 3 hours solo. I’d say a full day for the first timers. Definitely pull the engine. Replace both headgaskets and put a timing kit. You’ll be good for another 200k.
Can you access everything to remove motor if it won’t turn all the way over? Thanks in advance!
Not quite. If the engine doesn’t spin you’ll have to pull it with the torque converter attached. I highly recommend you don’t do that. Bad for the input seal on the trans.
Is there enough clearance to pull the engine with its accessories on it like the alternator and things. Im looking to pull mine and do the timing chain, so would it be better to take the accessories off anyway? Thanks amazing video so far.
Yes, you can pull it with the accessories on but it’s SUCH A PAIN! Soooo worth it to take them off.
@@iamdjnam good looks man ill be going that route as it shouldn't take much time to pull the accessories, this video is a tremendous break down/walkthru.
@@ajgattarello410 glad I can help! Definitely check out my install video when putting back in - lot of pointers
@@iamdjnamAyye bet, im trying to take in as much info as possible before pulling due to the fact its my daily lmao. But by chance would you know what bolts are used to mount the engine to the stand it self?
Every stand is different depending on the brand. I got grade 8 bolts, the same thread size as the bellhousing bolt. Longer ones, they’re about 5 inches. With a stack of washers.
Yo any way I can take the engine out with the torque converter ? As long as I line it up and out good off the input shaft I should be good right ?
Hell no. Leave that in. You don’t wanna F with that input seal. Plus torque converters require turning and pushing to click into position. Do yourself a favor…..undo those nuts!!!
How to tell if my 2005 ford Explorer XLT sports track is worth putting in a factory Remanufactured transmission, Would it be worth it? Also how would I know if my motor is in good shape?
If your motor is running good and doesn’t burn oil, it is cheaper to replace the timing chains. A lot of times people pay money for remanufactured engine and then the transmission breaks.
How did you take the starter out!?!?!? I’m sick with mine - 05 sport trac 4.0
13mm one with ratcheting wrench from underneath and the other through the wheel well with a small extension
I have an 06 Mustang with the same 4.0 L motor. Long story short I'm picking up where my back hard mechanic left off. I'm getting close to putting the motor back in the car and have been told it would be much easier to pull the transmission, bold it to the motor. Than put both back in the car. The Mustang is an automatic. Any thoughts or recommendation would be appreciated. Thank you.
Dude! I just bought an 06 mustang too! That’s exactly what I’m doing. Bolting them together in the garage then dropping it in. Mines a manual.
@@iamdjnam what years of mustang have the same engine? Are the engines and transmissions interchangeable with the 2002 explorer?
EGR wrench size is 27mm
Yeah learned that after realizing it was the same size as the tensioner. Thanks for commenting!
excellent videos excuse me could you tell me what book you used to rebuild your engine
Haynes Manual for 02-10 explorer
@@iamdjnam thank you very much and thank you for sharing your videos and wisdom
Any advice on getting the intake manifold screws out. The 2 closest to the radiator were already stripped when I tried to get them out.
I only stripped one before, used a fat bit and drilled the head off.
@@iamdjnam thanks. Any idea where I can find a new jack shaft bolt.
Amazon or dealership. Should have a link in my complete rebuild pt1 video
What bolts did you use to connect the engine hoist to the heads to?
Bellhousing bolt in the front, then that shorter bolt used to hold the harness in place on the back of the head.
I.like.your.atitud.you.are.very.positive.abauit.i.have.1.seating.in.the.gara.....for.long.time.and.i.hated
I’m only positive on camera bud
great video man!!! is the process completely the same for a 4.6?
No there are some differences. The v8 is much bigger making it a royal pain to get out. That’s why I only work on the v6
I have pull out 4.6 this weekend I hope it goes well 🙏
@@marioangiepeerman7487 make a video how to do it! I gotta rebuild my 4.6
Have a head gaslket leak in a 4.0 in a 2004 ford ranger. Only has 120,000 miles on it. What causes these to blow, I know there is a alert on the drivers side about cracking around a cast fissure.. Do you know of any other problems with this motor. So disappointed with this motor. Replaced the previous motor at 80,000 with the same problem. Thanks
Timing chain components notorious for breaking apart and rattling. I've never encountered a head casting failure.
@@iamdjnam which breaks guides and tensioners or chain. Or to do all three fail, thanks
Chains never fail. There’s a leaf style tensioner up front behind the timing cover that fails and the front and rear cassettes fail. Front usually lasts much longer. Rear I’ve seen broken as early as 60k miles.
I've taken my engine out and have a refurbished engine to put back in. How do I get the oil out of the heads once it's out? I drained the oil from the pan before removing.
Tweeter 4561 You’ll need to let gravity do the work. It’ll take 2-3 days for all of the oil to find its way back to the sump. And even then you won’t get all of it out.
@@iamdjnam that's what I ended up doing. Thanks!
On the exhaust what did you disconnect?
The 2 15mm nuts on each side
Great job. Can the engine be pulled and installed with the intake and exhaust manifolds still on the engine?
I always remove the intake manifold. Exhaust can absolutely stay on.
I had a hell of a time removing the last bolt that is close to the firewall, I did remove the intake, but I'm wondering if I should install the engine with the intake manifold already mounted. I don't want to deal with that bolt that is close to the firewall. Thank you for your help and time. Any thoughts on this will be greatly appreciated.
Keep it off dude. U gotta reach them bellhousing bolts and plug in the harness with the intake off
I have a 2004 Ford explorer XLT 4x4, I read on one of your advice post to replace the engine with one that had 100k if you are not going to rebuild it. Which years are compatible with my 2004 explorer 4x4? Does it need to have the balance shaft? Thank you
Any 4.0 longblock is compatible from 1997-2010. I always delete the balance shaft unless a customer requests to keep it.
dang was hoping iot was a 4.6l V8 removal
Unfortunately no. I am a 4.0 guru and refuse to touch the 4.6 mainly because it’s so much bigger in the engine bay and requires more steps.
The rear main seal is leaking because you did not put sealant between the rear main cap and the block. I would have left comment over on the rebuild video but you turned off comments.
Can you please give me details on how to replace these motor mounts? Thank you!
If you go from underneath the vehicle, they mount using a stud and nut. You’ll see it on the K member. I believe it’s an 18mm. A little tricky to access with the front axle in the way but it can be done.
@@iamdjnam
ruclips.net/video/u0g4nW0wyss/видео.html
This is my explorer, I think this much moment could cause highway vibrations? Done tons of work trying to get it to settle down but no luck.
@@CrotchetRocket I would consider replacing the motor mounts and the rear transmission mount.
Help i instala New timing chain and now the motor is wirking only whit 3 cilindro 1,2,3 cilindro are no working please help me what posible happen
You jumped time and destroyed the valves.
@@iamdjnam i have 90 presion on cilinder 1 , 60 on cilinder 2 y havent check número 3
@@guillermotorija4266 yeah it’s dead
What size bolts to mount load leveler to engine?
M10x1.5 just use the trans bolts
How did u get the torque converter loose?
14mm deep socket on the (4) converter nuts thru the starter hole
Thank you man I’m shit in the water taking the engine out right now just got the bell housing bolts n mounts left! Leaned a lot from u god bless! Where u from man ?
NJ! :)
Random question will a 2000 4.0 fit into a 06 chasis
Yes