This video literally saved my life. I was headed down a dark path of drugs and alcohol and clown school. But I found purpose in fixing my JK! I’m a new man.
I was going to replace the pedal today because it looked simple. But just like you told us the nut was tucked away and impossible to reach. I was about to drill a small hole in the panel to get in the area. Then I decided to look on RUclips one last time and saw this video it was very helpful. Thank you for the tips!
An important thing to note is the torque spec on the 4 throttle body bolts. I believe it's only about 65 in-lbs (~5.4 ft-lbs) so it's very easy to over-torque them and cause the housing to unknowingly crack..
Great Video… Fighting this Issue right now…. Side note… Every time you work on your Jeep, and are doing something regarding the Electronics… Disconnect your Battery 👍 … Edited …. There is a video of a Tech that uses a extra long 1/4” extension and a universal socket and is able to pull that top bolt out with out all that extra work 🤔👍
You can get to the top nut real easily if you disconnect the harness and remove the bottom bolt. Gently lift the bottom of the pedal assembly so it clears the bottom stud and rotate the assembly towards the driver side door. That will create enough space to get a wrench in there.
Joe I think you’re great This is my 3rd jeep. First was a 69 CJ5 with a 3 speed V8 Then an 83 sport with a 5 speed and now I’ve come full circle with a 2012 JKU that I absolutely love. 63,000 miles on her. It bucks and jerks sometimes when I’m going uphill and I think it’s a throttle body sensor. Think I’m going to try to just reset it before anything else. I don’t have any lights on so far. Any ideas or suggestions are welcome and appreciated. Thanks for all you do! Cindy
@@cindyorman4527 my 09 jk started doing the jerking while on freeway/ uphills. I thought my transmission must be slipping. Before i go all out i wanted to try this out. Have you had any luck with this repair?
A bad TPS lightning bolt will throw the code on either it or APS... most people replace the TPS first not realizing the APS is not sending the 5 volts through the ECM to move the throttle plate or their are deadspots on the contacts of the APS as you depress the gas pedal causing erratic idling and acceleration
My 2008 Jeep wrangler JK Unlimited has the Red Lightening Bolt. I have so far replaced Throttle Body, Accelerator Pedal and Camshaft position sensor. The red lightening bolt hasn't gone and my Jeep has no acceleration.
Just had my engine light come on this morning to my way to work. It ran fine, but then i tried to go faster than 70, and the rpm jerked and didn't excellerate the way it should so im thinking it may be a throttle body issue. Currently at 93k miles on the jeep wrangler jk rubicon
Bro I don’t have torque spec tool doing this tom so just don’t go ham on tightening the 4 bolts of the tb and do it cross cross pattern right just snug enough right?
I've learned majority of what's built from the aftermarket for parts are not up to calibration like the OEM part. May run ok but stuck with a check engine light on.
I have 2011 jku and it has lightning bolt still i replaced throttle body and accelerator pedal ,new battery, cam shaft sensor, tempature coolant sensor, map sensor, intake sensor, full tune up with new coil. The problem is still there runs like crap cuts out? Anybody else having this problem ??
Same problem here on my ‘08. Changed TB, camshaft sensor, crankshaft sensor, o2 sensors, and even took the entire harness out to check for damaged wires and rewired a new throttle body plug on it to make sure the connection was great. None of that helped. I’m completely stumped
I had pretty much the same problem with 07 jeep liberty 3.7 I replaced the accelerator pedel position sensor and I replaced the throttle body which was the electronic one. I went over everything else I could think of. Even though the manual that I had said nothing about the ECM having to relearn any of the things I replaced, everywhere I looked online was indicating that this procedure would have to be done. So I did that ( you can find a bunch of videos on how to do it) but I was still having the same problem as well. Ran like crap wouldn't idle. So I was getting fed up with it. When I found some information that said that I might just have to drive it for a few days or even up to a week. I thought it wouldn't be a good idea the way it was running. But I got in it started it kept the rpms up enough that it wouldn't die and pretty much forced it to drive around the block. In the process it died once then I continued to drive it around the block once more, and when I pulled back into the driveway it ran perfectly and idles perfect. I know it sounds crazy but it worked for me. And it was driving me nuts. Plus I've worked in a shop for twenty years. Anyways I hope this helps you guys. Doesn't hurt to try it.
thanks for video im having the same issue in a jeep wrangler sahara turbo 2020 down in power lean mode i cant find anything to ae where the throlley body is and how to remove it thanks hope someone can help🙏🏻🙏🏻
Been wrenching on my own cars for 40 years...with very few exceptions OEM parts are not better, almost never for the cost. Seems that world "Mopar" gets that crowd more geeked up more than another fan base.
I've changed both pedal sensor and throttle body, still get this.. flashing lightening bolt with traction light to follow. turn key it starts normal and drives normal. no check engine light
@@tannerbendtsen8508 it's currently having work done on the axle right now but I bought new abs sensors that are being installed as well as a new plug for my throttle body. I am hoping it's the plug but why not change the abs sensors since they are cheap. the locking plug mechanism on my throttle body plug was broke so it wasn't locked on(it'd clunk off) .. so I am hoping it's that it wasn't getting a direct connection. didn't notice it until right before it was sent off to the shop for a cracked seal. I truly am hoping it's what the problem was because every other part in correlation with the lightening bolt code has been replaced besides the computer.
@@alazaerose so frustrating. I’m right there with you. I’m to a point now where I’m just going to let the light be there, it runs normal and goes down the highway smooth, and it seems there’s tons of people with the same issue. It’s a jeep thing I guess.
@@tannerbendtsen8508 my friends say it could literally be anything(dummy light). the only time I've been able to get a code was while it was on and all it showed was pcv being erratic on the live stream. was a napa pcv, just actually also had a mopar one put in so we will see. speculation that napa pcv Valves fail but also a cheap fix worth trying. some say they change theirs with every oil change. I won't have her back for a few more weeks, waiting on parts for the rest of the job. so time will tell.
It was too long for sure which a lot of that wasn't necessary, but the meat and potatoes are there, just need to FFW through the rest. Thanks for the info @justjeep_it
This video literally saved my life. I was headed down a dark path of drugs and alcohol and clown school. But I found purpose in fixing my JK! I’m a new man.
That’s what this channel is all about. Saving lives…saving Jeeps. Glad this video showed you the way.
😂
👋😂👍Lmfao!
😂 I feel like working on mine now
LOL
I was going to replace the pedal today because it looked simple. But just like you told us the nut was tucked away and impossible to reach. I was about to drill a small hole in the panel to get in the area. Then I decided to look on RUclips one last time and saw this video it was very helpful. Thank you for the tips!
This was very helpful. I'm so glad people like you take the time to film the repairs.
Glad this video was helpful!
Thanks!!!! Single mom, just got my dream Jeep 2016 wrangler unlimited jku! Having this issue now. 💪 thanks for the tips. I’m going to give it a go! 💪
Good luck with the repair. Hope my video was helpful.
An important thing to note is the torque spec on the 4 throttle body bolts. I believe it's only about 65 in-lbs (~5.4 ft-lbs) so it's very easy to over-torque them and cause the housing to unknowingly crack..
Great Video… Fighting this Issue right now…. Side note… Every time you work on your Jeep, and are doing something regarding the Electronics… Disconnect your Battery 👍 … Edited …. There is a video of a Tech that uses a extra long 1/4” extension and a universal socket and is able to pull that top bolt out with out all that extra work 🤔👍
Thank you for the feedback. These motors are new to me. I’m pretty much pre 1999 4.0 straight six.
Disconnect just the negative right?
You can get to the top nut real easily if you disconnect the harness and remove the bottom bolt. Gently lift the bottom of the pedal assembly so it clears the bottom stud and rotate the assembly towards the driver side door. That will create enough space to get a wrench in there.
Joe I think you’re great This is my 3rd jeep. First was a 69 CJ5 with a 3 speed V8 Then an 83 sport with a 5 speed and now I’ve come full circle with a 2012 JKU that I absolutely love. 63,000 miles on her. It bucks and jerks sometimes when I’m going uphill and I think it’s a throttle body sensor. Think I’m going to try to just reset it before anything else. I don’t have any lights on so far. Any ideas or suggestions are welcome and appreciated. Thanks for all you do! Cindy
@@cindyorman4527 my 09 jk started doing the jerking while on freeway/ uphills. I thought my transmission must be slipping. Before i go all out i wanted to try this out. Have you had any luck with this repair?
Dude that intro was awesome!!!!! Nice job!
Thanks brother!!!
Late model Jeep - built in code reader. Cycle ignition 3 times and DTC should appear on dash where mileage is displayed.
A bad TPS lightning bolt will throw the code on either it or APS... most people replace the TPS first not realizing the APS is not sending the 5 volts through the ECM to move the throttle plate or their are deadspots on the contacts of the APS as you depress the gas pedal causing erratic idling and acceleration
My 2008 Jeep wrangler JK Unlimited has the Red Lightening Bolt. I have so far replaced Throttle Body, Accelerator Pedal and Camshaft position sensor. The red lightening bolt hasn't gone and my Jeep has no acceleration.
Did you get it resolved?
I just did the same--did you get this resolved?
@@indimelbsurf6784were you able to figure it out? I’m stuck on this now. Thanks
Just had my engine light come on this morning to my way to work. It ran fine, but then i tried to go faster than 70, and the rpm jerked and didn't excellerate the way it should so im thinking it may be a throttle body issue. Currently at 93k miles on the jeep wrangler jk rubicon
Jeep down on power? It could be the DORMAN throttle body and pedal sensor.
Bro I don’t have torque spec tool doing this tom so just don’t go ham on tightening the 4 bolts of the tb and do it cross cross pattern right just snug enough right?
I've learned majority of what's built from the aftermarket for parts are not up to calibration like the OEM part. May run ok but stuck with a check engine light on.
Lol @ 18mins:15seconds. Much help. Thank you
I have 2011 jku and it has lightning bolt still i replaced throttle body and accelerator pedal ,new battery, cam shaft sensor, tempature coolant sensor, map sensor, intake sensor, full tune up with new coil. The problem is still there runs like crap cuts out? Anybody else having this problem ??
Yes I am having the same problem as you and have not gotten anywhere
Same problem here on my ‘08. Changed TB, camshaft sensor, crankshaft sensor, o2 sensors, and even took the entire harness out to check for damaged wires and rewired a new throttle body plug on it to make sure the connection was great. None of that helped. I’m completely stumped
I had pretty much the same problem with 07 jeep liberty 3.7 I replaced the accelerator pedel position sensor and I replaced the throttle body which was the electronic one. I went over everything else I could think of. Even though the manual that I had said nothing about the ECM having to relearn any of the things I replaced, everywhere I looked online was indicating that this procedure would have to be done. So I did that ( you can find a bunch of videos on how to do it) but I was still having the same problem as well. Ran like crap wouldn't idle. So I was getting fed up with it. When I found some information that said that I might just have to drive it for a few days or even up to a week. I thought it wouldn't be a good idea the way it was running. But I got in it started it kept the rpms up enough that it wouldn't die and pretty much forced it to drive around the block. In the process it died once then I continued to drive it around the block once more, and when I pulled back into the driveway it ran perfectly and idles perfect. I know it sounds crazy but it worked for me. And it was driving me nuts. Plus I've worked in a shop for twenty years. Anyways I hope this helps you guys. Doesn't hurt to try it.
Did you have to do a “relearn” on either of those?
thanks for video im having the same issue in a jeep wrangler sahara turbo 2020 down in power lean mode i cant find anything to ae where the throlley body is and how to remove it thanks hope someone can help🙏🏻🙏🏻
Nice job Joey...💪👍👍
Thanks Dan!!!!
Great parts cannon video. Cleaning the original throttle would have achieved the same thing.
if you remove the right most bracket that hold the plate its alot easier i believe its a 5mm bolt, just one more piece to move out of the way.
Thanks for the tip. Sure os tight in there.
Been wrenching on my own cars for 40 years...with very few exceptions OEM parts are not better, almost never for the cost. Seems that world "Mopar" gets that crowd more geeked up more than another fan base.
I sometimes think that replacing OEM with OEM is basically replacing the same potential problem at a higher price than available elsewhere.
Did you disconnected the battery before to install the parts?
Not at first. Then I remembered and disconnected. Slight oversight on my part at the start.
I've changed both pedal sensor and throttle body, still get this.. flashing lightening bolt with traction light to follow. turn key it starts normal and drives normal. no check engine light
Did you ever figure this out? Having the same issue.
@@tannerbendtsen8508 it's currently having work done on the axle right now but I bought new abs sensors that are being installed as well as a new plug for my throttle body. I am hoping it's the plug but why not change the abs sensors since they are cheap. the locking plug mechanism on my throttle body plug was broke so it wasn't locked on(it'd clunk off) .. so I am hoping it's that it wasn't getting a direct connection. didn't notice it until right before it was sent off to the shop for a cracked seal. I truly am hoping it's what the problem was because every other part in correlation with the lightening bolt code has been replaced besides the computer.
@@alazaerose so frustrating. I’m right there with you. I’m to a point now where I’m just going to let the light be there, it runs normal and goes down the highway smooth, and it seems there’s tons of people with the same issue. It’s a jeep thing I guess.
@@tannerbendtsen8508 my friends say it could literally be anything(dummy light). the only time I've been able to get a code was while it was on and all it showed was pcv being erratic on the live stream. was a napa pcv, just actually also had a mopar one put in so we will see. speculation that napa pcv Valves fail but also a cheap fix worth trying. some say they change theirs with every oil change. I won't have her back for a few more weeks, waiting on parts for the rest of the job. so time will tell.
That’s your ECM I do believe and it does just snap in and out of that plastic bracket you broke.
Luckily I didn’t break it. I think the box is related to the skim/alarm module.
I thought the black box was the TCM.
hows the new APP SENSOR WORKING OUT! did you go OEM FOR THE PART?
Working great. Went with aftermarket. Check out my Amazon store link.
@@JustJeep_It ok thanks i may need sometime!
Did u have to relean that pedal or u just installed and its all good to go automatically?
The computer did take a few minutes to relearn the throttle body/pedal...but it didn't take long and I was good to go.
Why didn’t u just change the pedal sensor since u had a code for that u didn’t have to change the throttle body in the engine?
Because what I read, it could be on or the other or both. So to do the job once, I replaced both.
@@JustJeep_It i had a same issue replaced the paddle all set now
Ok weird, jeep told me when I replace mine they have to relearn everything, said I couldn't do it. Did you have to make it relearn it.
Nope..No issues with the new part at all. Dealer may have given you incorrect information.
drive by wire is a cable throttle. Drive by Wifi is more like it.
Did you fix the issue ?
Indeed it did. No dash lights. Back to full power.
Plz send me parts #
your killing smalls ha ha ha
Good-looking my name is Thomas threatt
Why don't you just say what's wrong with the Jeep we don't want to hear about your life story
Thanks for watching $ and feel free to check out my other videos as well. Sone aren’t as bad as this video ;-)
Little long
You ain't kiddin.........tthanks for watching.
It was too long for sure which a lot of that wasn't necessary, but the meat and potatoes are there, just need to FFW through the rest. Thanks for the info @justjeep_it