Great video. I really appreciate the clear directions, and how you repeat them. Thank you! Good deed for you today, helping someone like me.👍 Oh and the pricing info from BMW was very informative as well. Thanks again!
Thank you very much for this detailed video u are the only one who covered this small clip on the side of the green thing where ull need a small screwdriver to unlock. I was unable to push the clip back in because of that side clip but becuase of ur video I got it connected ❤
Great video. Watched it before replacing the battery on my 2018 i3 today. Went much faster than I expected. Just wanted to mention that you don't need to remove the terminals from the posts at all. Simply unscrew the torx screws from each terminal and then lift entire terminal connections off battery; first negative then positive. Then remove vent hose, wiggle battery out, and then reverse with new battery. Tip on removing windshield wiper fill tube helped a lot. Also -- it seems if you replace the battery with one with identical specifications you don't need to bother with registering a new battery. So -- cost was only price of battery and shipping.
Interesting! Thanks! I have a follow up video to this that’s more sort by step to follow along with. Hopefully you saw that one too. This video was more of an overview.
Thanks for this it was very helpful! I just did it on my '07 i3 this morning using your instructions. Only thing that flummoxed me was trying to get the high voltage disconnect to go back down into its normal position when I was done. Had a devil of time with it. Turns out the black part will not go down, even with the little green tab pulled back, unless you push the red part down first, which I had to use the little screwdriver to do as the red part it has its own tiny internal tab. Once the red part went down the black part went in easily with the green tab pulled back as you showed. One other mention is that once you have all this out, it's nice to add a battery pigtail so next time you don't have to do all this just to check or charge the 12v battery. I used a "DBT081-0069-6 Battery Cable with Ring Terminals for 12V Battery Tender" from Amazon, $6.00 US. Now I can put the leads to my voltmeter or my my battery charger on with no hassles!
seat850c That’s a really smart idea! Thanks for the recommendation. I had the same problem with that HV connector this evening. It turns out that you have to push the black part not just down, but back towards the rear of the car. Only slightly. It needs to clear something in there. I read it in some BMW documents.
I would be careful connecting a battery charger to the 12v battery with the high voltage system connected. It could possibly back-feed into the high voltage system if your charger voltage is too high. More specifically it could back-feed into the EME module and fry it. If you think the 12v battery is expensive, you’ll shit your pants when you see the price and labor for an EME module...
A lot of people struggle to get the High Voltage open and closed. There is this neat video where the author shows exactly how to do it. Its basically pulling back on the red tab to open and close. Here's the video to show how its done. ruclips.net/video/Jc5oJ_BCt9A/видео.htmlsi=BGklJG1yGTv6yOZ3&t=500
Sure thing. Thanks for sharing your appreciation. Be sure to check out the part 2 video which goes through it step by step in motion. Part 1 was more of a planning video.
JP M Thanks. Yeah, I used the other videos as resources too but there were some details left out that if you’re really going to DIY, you’ll want some tips on before attempting it.
Thanks! This is just the overview video. I have a part 2 on my channel that has the full detailed step by step demonstration. Not just to explain how I did it, but an actual instructional DIY video so people can follow along and get it done themselves.
Many thanks for the information. My battery sparked when I put the earth lead on as well but thanks to you, I was expecting it. I focused on prep so the car was disconnected for minimum duration and it booted up with no errors or faults, just had to put date and time in. I’ve ordered a V Gate plug so I can register it but on the face of it, it’s not necessary to drive. The battery was showing 14v connected up but 11v when removed. Six years old.
I just checked my 2019 battery and it was sat at 12.3v so its close to the 12.2 that means its old and not reliable. As winter is now here its a good time to change the almost 5 years old battery. Remember these are AGM and they last about 3-5 years. I used to own a Security company and we had to change the backup AGM 12v batteries in the control panels usually every 4 years as they would swell and fail. Seems nothing changes :-) Better safe than sorry just replace at 5 years max.
Quick tip-I use a portable power station that I keep in the back seat to run my dash cam and accessories like phone. Your 12v battery will thank you :)
What prices were you getting in your area? My dealer in the Bay Area, CA, USA was charging $235 with a trade-in of my old one. Remy was priced at over $250 originally but a day later, their website showed it was back down to $140 with free shipping.
In the UK, the battery is hard to find but the BMW service desk supplied one for £84 inc tax, no exchange. (About 120 dollars) which is reasonable I think
@@jonmoon6943 Jon, I just bought one from UK BMW Stockport for £98 on 23/11/23 but you can also get a look alike from TANYA batteries AGM12-23 EXIDE MOTORCYCLE BATTERY 12V (4922) for around £63 but terminals are not OEM so for an extra few quid I thought I would get the OEM.
Thanks for this. How often can one charge old pattery this way .... I assume that there must be a limit on that. Do you know? Doing it this way you do not need to "register" the new battery.
Correct. Technically you don’t need to register and I’m told it’ll still work. I did pay the $30 USD for the app to register though. Part 2 of this video series is the diy following along video. This one here is just an overview. Much more detail in the second part which includes everything.
It’s a small 12Ah battery. They could’ve used as optional a small supercapacitor bank instead with a small dc/dc converter for sleep mode to keep it charged and another higher current converter to power all necessary 12V equipment or a converter with low power high efficiency mode, unless they already have it but with the battery instead of the supercap
The vent tube connects to an “L” connector, so-called because it shaped like an “L”, not a “T” connector, so not called because it is shaped like an “L” ;)
Thanks man! But this is actually just the summary video. The step-by-step follow along video is part 2. I made it for non car people to literally follow along and do it themselves since not all i3 owners are wrenchers. Includes every last detail.
Thx for a nicely detailed video!. did u have to reprogram anything? I just had it replaced by dealer $235 for batt & $550 labor(!!!) dealer always try to scare u with "high voltage batt" as well as messing with computer programs with E-vehicles. Thx again
I actually have a part 2 of this video that's a step-by-step follow along type of video. The one you're commenting on here is just the summary. Anyway, I did end up registering the battery via an app which does have a cost to it. The didn't have to program anything though. An error did show up upon installation as others have reported too but it goes away after a few hours. Labor shouldn't be that much. A pro could do it in any hour or less so $550/hour is quite a bit especially if you have to do this every 3 years.
Yes, I did end up using the app to register the battery. It's quite self explanatory. Very quick. Literally open up the app, connect the WiFi enabled OBD2 reader and go through the instructions. Less than 2 minutes. Still think it's crazy that BMW charges to do that.
@@Funcentric Isnt it crazy that a battery has to be registered at all? It should just be treated as a voltage source not as an digital software piece which it clearly isnt. Seems a bit over the top to do that.
@@BasicPlanet I agree. It's very crazy. It's ridiculous that they charge for it too and so much. I heard that it costs as "cheap" as $50 at some places but my dealer wanted I think $200. It's been awhile. I don't recall the exact amount, but it was nuts. Definitely go the route of getting the OBD II reader and buying the app.
Oh, I think you mean the RDC antenna. If it's like other BMW's it would be under the front driver seat on the underside of the car, but I haven't checked on the i3 specifically and not sure if it would really be there since we have our high voltage battery down there. It wouldn't hurt to call up a dealer, insist to talk to a tech and ask them. Service Managers aren't always so cool about customers talking to techs directly, so you may have to sneak into their dealer garage and see if you can get one of the tech's attention. Might be tough though b/c most guys there won't know about the i3 specifically. Perhaps the Service Manager can direct you to someone who's more knowledgeable about i3's. You can also try talking to the front desk person to get an idea of when slow periods are in the day b/c that's when they're going to be more willing to talk to you w/o an appointment.
@@Funcentric Thank you! I suspect that the TPMS antenna for the tire pressure monitor might be located under the rear seat. My system can't reset, I suspect either a faulty antenna or a battery issue in one or more sensors. Do you know if it only takes one sensor to take down the whole system?
@@henrikwammen9893 If you need further help with a 12v replacement, you want to check out Part 2 of this video series. This Part 1 is only an overview. Part 2 is the step by step so you can follow along.
The antenna under the rear seat was not it, that one is a part of the comfort access system as far as I can gather from the part no. 66.20-9220832-02, I must check under the driver seat 😉
What is the "HiVoltage" connection you mention, is that the connection to the main drive batteries? I am concerned about electrical safety in changing the accessory battery since there is still the other batteries connected that drive the car. Are there areas besides the terminals to be careful of touching especially with a tool to avoid electrical shock from the main batteries?
Jon DiCsre Generally don’t touch anything other than the bolts with metal. The high voltage connection is the green (earlier models are orange) plastic housing on the driver side of the car. Check out part 2 of this for a more detailed look with step by step demonstration. Let me know there if you have questions. Good luck. You can do it.
@@Funcentric Just FYI the green connector you’re referencing is a low voltage (12v) circuit that controls the high voltage system switches. Make sure the car is in sleep mode (start/stop button letters no longer illuminated) before disconnecting the green connector, or it will do damage to the high voltage shut-off switches.
That’s a logical concern. This video really is for non car people. I was surprised too that it was just that one plastic connector that connects the accessory battery to the main high voltage battery that drives the car. I assume the computer monitors everything and keeps things safe. The connector type isn’t anything I’d be worried about. It’s similar to a headlamp connector. Before you do anything, watch the part two video. This video here is just a summary. The part two video is the true step by step tutorial of exactly how to do each step to follow along. Like with all electronics, be careful not to touch positive terminals to negative.
Yeah it’s in the part 2 video which is the follow along step by step video. This part 1 is just an overview. However, Amazon doesn’t sell the one I have anymore. You’ll want to check Facebook groups for current ones that people are using.
@@saekim1904 that could be a reason to worry about the 12v but for sure if the interior lights don’t turn on when you open the doors, the 12v needs to be swapped out asap.
Today I was replacing the 12V battery on my 2014 i3. I accidentally took the vent hose with battery when I took it out. Does anyone know where the other side of the hose connect to (anywhere inside the car)?
Be careful with lithium as they do not like being charged in the very cold. I would hang off with that idea. ;-) AGM is more reliable for this function.
I am driving right now but feel free to check part two of the video which is actually the step-by-step version where you can follow along. I show the part number on that video.
Can you place a trickle charger on the 12Volt battery as the 2016 I3. will be stored for 5 months Should the main battery be disconnected while trickle charging.?
I wouldn’t do that. If you unplug the high voltage from the 12v and hook up a trickle charger, the high voltage battery would never charge. It needs the 12 to charge. You risk coming back to the car 5 months later with a full 12v but a head high voltage. Manual says to keep the high voltage plugged in when on vacation. I would recommend the same. If the 12v dies, so be it. Better to replace the 12b than to be stuck with a permanently damaged high voltage.
@@barryparoff2160 My understanding is that since we don't have an alternator in our cars, it's actually charging the high voltage that charges the 12v while stationary. I believe all you need to do is keep the high voltage plugged into the EVSE and you're good to go. I wouldn't risk doing it any other way.
@@Funcentric Thank you for your response.The car stayed functional through 2019 storage while being plugged in but was dead in 2020 after similar storage.Perhaps the fact it was in its fifth year and unable to hold a charge from the main battery.Your input is appreciated.I can't seem to get any answer from BMW.
@@barryparoff2160 yeah it’d hard to find someone there who knows what they’re talking about. I’m not really an expert either. Just sharing some thoughts. Maybe some folks at the Facebook groups might be able to give you some insight.
@@Funcentric my heated seats started to shut off after only 5 min or so been like that all winter i thought it was just the element or somthing then today i got the increased battery drain while stopped error, so i found a battery and made it work, the seats are back to normal and dash/screens seem brighter but i still have the error hopefully in the am after it sits it will go away.
@@19schneider85 glad it’s working again. My part two video has a lot more detail than this one. This video is more of an overview. The part 2 is the actual tutorial to follow along with step by step process. But it sounds like you hit it done so congrats.
you can call different dealers who have different prices. My part 2 video shows you step by step how to do it yourself. Designed for non car people to follow along. You can do it.
![Kodak Black - Catch Fire [Official Music Video]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/A4ch-olIuZo/mqdefault.jpg)
Great video. I really appreciate the clear directions, and how you repeat them. Thank you! Good deed for you today, helping someone like me.👍 Oh and the pricing info from BMW was very informative as well. Thanks again!
No problem. This is actually just an overview. For a step by step diy video to follow along with, part 2 is what you want to watch.
Thank you very much for this detailed video u are the only one who covered this small clip on the side of the green thing where ull need a small screwdriver to unlock. I was unable to push the clip back in because of that side clip but becuase of ur video I got it connected ❤
Great video. Watched it before replacing the battery on my 2018 i3 today. Went much faster than I expected. Just wanted to mention that you don't need to remove the terminals from the posts at all. Simply unscrew the torx screws from each terminal and then lift entire terminal connections off battery; first negative then positive. Then remove vent hose, wiggle battery out, and then reverse with new battery. Tip on removing windshield wiper fill tube helped a lot. Also -- it seems if you replace the battery with one with identical specifications you don't need to bother with registering a new battery. So -- cost was only price of battery and shipping.
Interesting! Thanks! I have a follow up video to this that’s more sort by step to follow along with. Hopefully you saw that one too. This video was more of an overview.
Thanks for the info, I just recently got a certified pre-owned 2018 i3 back in July with 18k miles on it.
Sweet! Crazy how low the mileage is one these huh? I bet you got a deal. With Rex or Bev?
Thanks for this it was very helpful! I just did it on my '07 i3 this morning using your instructions. Only thing that flummoxed me was trying to get the high voltage disconnect to go back down into its normal position when I was done. Had a devil of time with it. Turns out the black part will not go down, even with the little green tab pulled back, unless you push the red part down first, which I had to use the little screwdriver to do as the red part it has its own tiny internal tab. Once the red part went down the black part went in easily with the green tab pulled back as you showed. One other mention is that once you have all this out, it's nice to add a battery pigtail so next time you don't have to do all this just to check or charge the 12v battery. I used a "DBT081-0069-6 Battery Cable with Ring Terminals for 12V Battery Tender" from Amazon, $6.00 US. Now I can put the leads to my voltmeter or my my battery charger on with no hassles!
seat850c That’s a really smart idea! Thanks for the recommendation. I had the same problem with that HV connector this evening. It turns out that you have to push the black part not just down, but back towards the rear of the car. Only slightly. It needs to clear something in there. I read it in some BMW documents.
I would be careful connecting a battery charger to the 12v battery with the high voltage system connected. It could possibly back-feed into the high voltage system if your charger voltage is too high. More specifically it could back-feed into the EME module and fry it. If you think the 12v battery is expensive, you’ll shit your pants when you see the price and labor for an EME module...
A lot of people struggle to get the High Voltage open and closed. There is this neat video where the author shows exactly how to do it. Its basically pulling back on the red tab to open and close. Here's the video to show how its done. ruclips.net/video/Jc5oJ_BCt9A/видео.htmlsi=BGklJG1yGTv6yOZ3&t=500
Thank you so much for putting the time and effort to help the rest of us out. You my friend are awesome!
Sure thing. Thanks for sharing your appreciation. Be sure to check out the part 2 video which goes through it step by step in motion. Part 1 was more of a planning video.
Thx a lot from France, 12v battery successfully replaced with an oem agm one with your nice tutorial !
Yoann WYFFELS awesome! Thanks for letting me know the video helped. Glad it worked out!
Yoann WYFFELS did you watch part 2?
I just picked a Deka up from a Battery Worx in Southern California. Haven't put it in yet.
Awesome explanation on how to replace the battery! Sorry this had to be your first vid of the i3. It’s an awesome not so little, little car. 😊
JP M Thanks. Yeah, I used the other videos as resources too but there were some details left out that if you’re really going to DIY, you’ll want some tips on before attempting it.
So well explained, wish others were so good as you.
Thanks! This is just the overview video. I have a part 2 on my channel that has the full detailed step by step demonstration. Not just to explain how I did it, but an actual instructional DIY video so people can follow along and get it done themselves.
Many thanks for the information. My battery sparked when I put the earth lead on as well but thanks to you, I was expecting it.
I focused on prep so the car was disconnected for minimum duration and it booted up with no errors or faults, just had to put date and time in. I’ve ordered a V Gate plug so I can register it but on the face of it, it’s not necessary to drive.
The battery was showing 14v connected up but 11v when removed. Six years old.
Nice! Glad you found the video useful! Happy that it made a difference for you. Drive safely
I just checked my 2019 battery and it was sat at 12.3v so its close to the 12.2 that means its old and not reliable. As winter is now here its a good time to change the almost 5 years old battery. Remember these are AGM and they last about 3-5 years. I used to own a Security company and we had to change the backup AGM 12v batteries in the control panels usually every 4 years as they would swell and fail. Seems nothing changes :-) Better safe than sorry just replace at 5 years max.
Quick tip-I use a portable power station that I keep in the back seat to run my dash cam and accessories like phone. Your 12v battery will thank you :)
Cool! Do you have pics or social media where I could check out some photos of your set up?
You are so thorough. Going to follow. Thank you!
Awesome vids mate. Just got a sub. My 2017 Rex is still going strong with ~45k miles on it.
Thanks for the video. Those Remy prices were so crazy high I had to buy at the dealership for cheaper.
What prices were you getting in your area? My dealer in the Bay Area, CA, USA was charging $235 with a trade-in of my old one. Remy was priced at over $250 originally but a day later, their website showed it was back down to $140 with free shipping.
In the UK, the battery is hard to find but the BMW service desk supplied one for £84 inc tax, no exchange. (About 120 dollars) which is reasonable I think
@@jonmoon6943 Jon, I just bought one from UK BMW Stockport for £98 on 23/11/23 but you can also get a look alike from TANYA batteries AGM12-23 EXIDE MOTORCYCLE BATTERY 12V (4922) for around £63 but terminals are not OEM so for an extra few quid I thought I would get the OEM.
Awesome video! Helped me out a lot on my 2016 BMW i3!
Awesome but you need to watch part 2. Part 1 is just an overview. Part 2 is the step by step to follow along.
@@Funcentric Got it all plugged in and working but sadly the car has a drivetrain malfunction so it wont drive.....
Thanks for this. How often can one charge old pattery this way .... I assume that there must be a limit on that. Do you know? Doing it this way you do not need to "register" the new battery.
Correct. Technically you don’t need to register and I’m told it’ll still work. I did pay the $30 USD for the app to register though. Part 2 of this video series is the diy following along video. This one here is just an overview. Much more detail in the second part which includes everything.
It’s a small 12Ah battery. They could’ve used as optional a small supercapacitor bank instead with a small dc/dc converter for sleep mode to keep it charged and another higher current converter to power all necessary 12V equipment or a converter with low power high efficiency mode, unless they already have it but with the battery instead of the supercap
The vent tube connects to an “L” connector, so-called because it shaped like an “L”, not a “T” connector, so not called because it is shaped like an “L” ;)
Cool. Thanks for the contribution.
L? Not elbow or elbow ? lol😅
Another awesome video!!
Thanks man! But this is actually just the summary video. The step-by-step follow along video is part 2. I made it for non car people to literally follow along and do it themselves since not all i3 owners are wrenchers. Includes every last detail.
Thx for a nicely detailed video!. did u have to reprogram anything? I just had it replaced by dealer $235 for batt & $550 labor(!!!) dealer always try to scare u with "high voltage batt" as well as messing with computer programs with E-vehicles. Thx again
I actually have a part 2 of this video that's a step-by-step follow along type of video. The one you're commenting on here is just the summary. Anyway, I did end up registering the battery via an app which does have a cost to it. The didn't have to program anything though. An error did show up upon installation as others have reported too but it goes away after a few hours.
Labor shouldn't be that much. A pro could do it in any hour or less so $550/hour is quite a bit especially if you have to do this every 3 years.
Great video, did you actually wind up registering it with the apps?
Yes, I did end up using the app to register the battery. It's quite self explanatory. Very quick. Literally open up the app, connect the WiFi enabled OBD2 reader and go through the instructions. Less than 2 minutes. Still think it's crazy that BMW charges to do that.
@@Funcentric Isnt it crazy that a battery has to be registered at all? It should just be treated as a voltage source not as an digital software piece which it clearly isnt. Seems a bit over the top to do that.
@@BasicPlanet I agree. It's very crazy. It's ridiculous that they charge for it too and so much. I heard that it costs as "cheap" as $50 at some places but my dealer wanted I think $200. It's been awhile. I don't recall the exact amount, but it was nuts. Definitely go the route of getting the OBD II reader and buying the app.
Very nice tutorial! A very thorough explanation of the replacement of the i3
12v battery.
Great video! Do you by any chance know where the TPMS antenna is located in an i3?
Oh, I think you mean the RDC antenna. If it's like other BMW's it would be under the front driver seat on the underside of the car, but I haven't checked on the i3 specifically and not sure if it would really be there since we have our high voltage battery down there.
It wouldn't hurt to call up a dealer, insist to talk to a tech and ask them. Service Managers aren't always so cool about customers talking to techs directly, so you may have to sneak into their dealer garage and see if you can get one of the tech's attention. Might be tough though b/c most guys there won't know about the i3 specifically. Perhaps the Service Manager can direct you to someone who's more knowledgeable about i3's. You can also try talking to the front desk person to get an idea of when slow periods are in the day b/c that's when they're going to be more willing to talk to you w/o an appointment.
@@Funcentric Thank you!
I suspect that the TPMS antenna for the tire pressure monitor might be located under the rear seat. My system can't reset, I suspect either a faulty antenna or a battery issue in one or more sensors. Do you know if it only takes one sensor to take down the whole system?
@@henrikwammen9893 If you need further help with a 12v replacement, you want to check out Part 2 of this video series. This Part 1 is only an overview. Part 2 is the step by step so you can follow along.
@@Funcentric Yes I saw it, it's great!
The antenna under the rear seat was not it, that one is a part of the comfort access system as far as I can gather from the part no. 66.20-9220832-02, I must check under the driver seat 😉
What is the "HiVoltage" connection you mention, is that the connection to the main drive batteries? I am concerned about electrical safety in changing the accessory battery since there is still the other batteries connected that drive the car. Are there areas besides the terminals to be careful of touching especially with a tool to avoid electrical shock from the main batteries?
Jon DiCsre Generally don’t touch anything other than the bolts with metal. The high voltage connection is the green (earlier models are orange) plastic housing on the driver side of the car. Check out part 2 of this for a more detailed look with step by step demonstration. Let me know there if you have questions. Good luck. You can do it.
Yes, the high voltage is what connects the 12v to the main battery. The 12v needs the main battery to charge.
@@Funcentric Just FYI the green connector you’re referencing is a low voltage (12v) circuit that controls the high voltage system switches. Make sure the car is in sleep mode (start/stop button letters no longer illuminated) before disconnecting the green connector, or it will do damage to the high voltage shut-off switches.
That’s a logical concern. This video really is for non car people. I was surprised too that it was just that one plastic connector that connects the accessory battery to the main high voltage battery that drives the car. I assume the computer monitors everything and keeps things safe. The connector type isn’t anything I’d be worried about. It’s similar to a headlamp connector.
Before you do anything, watch the part two video. This video here is just a summary. The part two video is the true step by step tutorial of exactly how to do each step to follow along.
Like with all electronics, be careful not to touch positive terminals to negative.
This is just a 14v supply from the main systems DC-DC converter. Not harmful its 14v ! DC
Can u list the name n brand of ur obd reader?
Yeah it’s in the part 2 video which is the follow along step by step video. This part 1 is just an overview. However, Amazon doesn’t sell the one I have anymore. You’ll want to check Facebook groups for current ones that people are using.
Ok ty my 2017 Rex warning sign just came on yesterday along w engine light on
@@saekim1904 that could be a reason to worry about the 12v but for sure if the interior lights don’t turn on when you open the doors, the 12v needs to be swapped out asap.
Either way, there isn’t much warning so you’ll want to swap it out soon. Batteries are rated for just 3years so you’re already over.
Ty so much
Today I was replacing the 12V battery on my 2014 i3. I accidentally took the vent hose with battery when I took it out. Does anyone know where the other side of the hose connect to (anywhere inside the car)?
I'm buying a used i3 today. My plan is to measure the battery space and squeeze in the largest lithium ion battery I can find on amazon.
Be careful with lithium as they do not like being charged in the very cold. I would hang off with that idea. ;-) AGM is more reliable for this function.
Can you tell me which battery I need to buy exactly? I have a 2014 i3 but can’t find one online. I don’t know what I’m typing in wrong
I am driving right now but feel free to check part two of the video which is actually the step-by-step version where you can follow along. I show the part number on that video.
AGM12-23 EXIDE MOTORCYCLE BATTERY 12V (4922) This is available in the UK from Tanya Batteries. Its currently approx £63
Can you place a trickle charger on the 12Volt battery as the 2016 I3. will be stored for 5 months Should the main battery be disconnected while trickle charging.?
I wouldn’t do that. If you unplug the high voltage from the 12v and hook up a trickle charger, the high voltage battery would never charge. It needs the 12 to charge. You risk coming back to the car 5 months later with a full 12v but a head high voltage.
Manual says to keep the high voltage plugged in when on vacation. I would recommend the same. If the 12v dies, so be it. Better to replace the 12b than to be stuck with a permanently damaged high voltage.
@@Funcentric What about leaving the high voltage battery plugged in and also trickle charging the 12 volt battery?
@@barryparoff2160 My understanding is that since we don't have an alternator in our cars, it's actually charging the high voltage that charges the 12v while stationary. I believe all you need to do is keep the high voltage plugged into the EVSE and you're good to go. I wouldn't risk doing it any other way.
@@Funcentric Thank you for your response.The car stayed functional through 2019 storage while being plugged in but was dead in 2020 after similar storage.Perhaps the fact it was in its fifth year and unable to hold a charge from the main battery.Your input is appreciated.I can't seem to get any answer from BMW.
@@barryparoff2160 yeah it’d hard to find someone there who knows what they’re talking about. I’m not really an expert either. Just sharing some thoughts. Maybe some folks at the Facebook groups might be able to give you some insight.
Still on the 2014 battery in 2020 😉
Nice! Just look out for if the interior lights turn off prematurely or not at all. That’s a sign of a dying battery.
@@Funcentric my heated seats started to shut off after only 5 min or so been like that all winter i thought it was just the element or somthing then today i got the increased battery drain while stopped error, so i found a battery and made it work, the seats are back to normal and dash/screens seem brighter but i still have the error hopefully in the am after it sits it will go away.
@@19schneider85 glad it’s working again. My part two video has a lot more detail than this one. This video is more of an overview. The part 2 is the actual tutorial to follow along with step by step process. But it sounds like you hit it done so congrats.
@@Funcentric Yes thank you in the battery I used was etx18l Minor modifications worked great.
200 battery + 200 to register battery... WOW 'nice' service...any chipper way of swapping battery?
you can call different dealers who have different prices. My part 2 video shows you step by step how to do it yourself. Designed for non car people to follow along. You can do it.