It's nice to see someone doing a proper thorough job using the proper tools without cutting corners using brute force & ignorance. No detail was left out. I just did the same engine in a 2014 Quashqai like you favouring the Gates kit. I highly recommend Parts in Motion, half the price of Euro. My fuel pump sprocket had 4 pips randomly spaced. Whats that about? not that it really matters on them. Great content.
Well done. From the US and only worked on US muscle cars for 20yrs+. Now with the US Navy and in Spain. A friend needed this done and ask me to do it for him and thanks to you I had no problem doing it. But that doesn't mean that I like Renault's lol. But anyhow compared to the other videos on here yours is superb thank you.
30. Align the timing belt to the fuel pump gear pulley by positioning it on the circulation pump pulley. In other words, both the camshaft pulley and the fuel pump pulley should be loosened before the belt is fully seated. Because you will stretch the belt and put it on the tensioner ball and force it through. You will have completed the assembly by sliding the belt after you have aligned the belt on the camshaft and fuel pump pulleys with the teeth from the side. Eventually, the white line on the eccentric pulley will coincide with the round point on the tread at 12 o'clock. On the pulley of the fuel pump, the white line will coincide with the round point on the tooth at 1 o'clock. On the cog in the crank, the white lines of the belt will coincide at 6 o'clock and 3 o'clock. How to install the timing belt effortlessly is as follows: After the timing belt has been properly aligned with the camshaft pulley, fuel pump pulley, circulation and tension ball pulley, remove the gear pulley on the crank and attach it to the belt synth. Hold the gear with the belt and attach it to the pulley so that the white line painted inside and out will be at the 6 o'clock position, and the painted white line from the outside will be at the 3 o'clock position. (The inner part of the crank gear may be rusty, moldy, and if it boils over time, it may be difficult to remove again, so lightly polish both the surface of the crank where the gear enters and the inside of the gear with a sandpaper.) This is the easiest way. Another timing assembly method is as follows: Pass the timing belt to all toothed pulleys without the tensioner ball mounted. Then push the tensioner ball against the timing belt and tighten the bolt by placing the claw in place. This method is also simple. 31. After the timing belt is installed correctly, in order to tighten the timing belt, loosen the 3 bolts held by the 13 keys on the eccentric pulley and turn the pulley clockwise until it rests on the slot. While tensioning the belt with the tensioner ball, the pulley will turn counterclockwise and the tension of the belt will be adjusted evenly. 32. Tension the belt by inserting 6 hex keys into the timing tension ball. The arrow mark will fall between the two lines and will be closer to the second line below. So the tension will be a little more than medium. When the belt is tensioned, tighten the tensioner ball bolt 13 with a Phillips wrench. If possible, use these 13 keyed bolts on the tension ball by procuring a new one. Sometimes this bolt does not come out of the timing belt. 33. Tighten the bolts, which are held on the eccentric pulley with 3 pcs. 13 keys. 34. Remove the fixing pin on the eccentric gear pulley, Remove the part that you clamped on the gear on the crank, Remove the crank locking pin. 35. To understand that the timing belt is installed correctly, to make sure that the engine synth is correct and whether the valves are colliding with the piston heads, remove the crank lock pin and the lock pin of the camshaft pulley, insert a key into the bolt in the camshaft pulley hub and slowly turn the engine clockwise, that is, to the right. turn it 2 turns listening to the sound. If everything is normal, feel that the valves will not hit the piston heads, and the white lines on the belt will coincide correctly with the notches on the pulleys. If so, it's in the engine synth. 36. Check the indicator showing the tension amount of the timing tensioner ball arrow may have slipped back. If so, hold it with 6 hex sockets and re-tighten it with a 13 star wrench and recheck the tensioner ball by turning the engine two turns. After starting the engine, recheck the condition of the tensioner ball. 37. Install the engine mount tie rod. 38. Mount the lower part of the timing protection cover and snap it. 39. Mount the upper part of the timing protection cover with snaps and fasten with a Torx T25 clip-on screw. 40. Install the engine mount. 41. Remove and replace the accessory belt tensioner ball, tighten lightly. If possible, use new bolts on the tension balls as well. Feel the air conditioner pulley with your hand. Does it have a jagged surface? Are there any sharp broken corners in the ducts? Otherwise, it breaks the accessory belt, rubs against the timing protection cover, carves the cover, makes a hole, and if a piece enters between the timing belt, the engine will jump to cents. So, check it well and put on a new accessory belt and turn the belt on the longest part of the belt with your hand and see that it turns a quarter turn at most, this is the measure. And fully tighten the accessory belt tensioner ball. 42. Reinstall the retaining pin on the eccentric sprocket pulley, reinstall the crank locking pin. You will tighten the crank pulley. 43. Tighten the bolt on the crank pulley with an 18 wrench to 125 Nm + 90°. Use new bolts, use bolts with a tensile and yield strength of at least 10x9. When comparing the old bolt with the new bolt, the diameter and length should be the same. If the new bolt is short, do not use it, supply the correct bolt. Definitely don't use the old bolt, it has creeped out, it can break in a short time and cause trouble. 44. Remove the fixing pin on the eccentric gear pulley, remove the crank locking pin, put Teflon tape on its E14 bolt and replace it.
Thank you very much for taking the time to make this guide. I've just changed the belts on my Scenic - my first attempt at a belts change and couldn't have done it without your detailed tuition. Top man 👍
What a great job, the attention to detail is amazing, so many garages wouldn't bother slackening the three bolts on the cam sprocket. Keep up the good work, i expect your business is prospering.
Thank you. Followed this and all good. Slight differences on my model (2015) is that the cambelt cover is different and doesn't need to remove the diesel pump wheel. Also I'd suggest putting the auxiliary belt on before doing the engine mounts as it gives you more space.
This is an excellent descriptive video and one of the best I’ve seen. I noticed just one thing though. At least one water pump bolt goes through the engine block into the water jacket. These bolts will require a sealant to the threads to prevent leaks.
I hadn’t thought about that but now you mention it when you remove the bottom left bolt the coolant comes out. I have done a few and never used sealant maybe I have been lucky, but I will note it for next time 👍
On my 2016 Renault Duster (Rebranded as Renault here is South Africa) the bottom bolt on the firewall side had coolant coming out of it. Top one was dry.
Just finished this job on my mk1 Kangoo. Access was a little fiddlier for some bits due to it having AC, seems like it was an afterthought! Your guide was really helpful and much appreciated! Have subscribed.
Thanks Dude for uploading your vid.Today I changed the Timingbelt and the Waterpump on a Nissan Pulsar 2014, with the K9K Engine without problebms.i do it like you in your vid .Your Vid is the best i found on youtube.Thank you very much for your exactly video.Best regards from Germany and keep going on Buddy👍👍
RENAULT 1.5 dci K9K MEGANE 4, MERCEDES, CLIO 4, DACIA, NISSAN, SUZUKI REPLACEMENT OF TIMING BELT SET, ACCESSORY BELT SET AND WATER PUMP 1. Disconnect the negative terminal from the battery 2. Discharge the radiator and engine water by unwinding the water hose connected to the lower part of the radiator from the radiator side. When the water drains well, reassemble the hose. 3. If the right wheel and hood are two parts, remove only the right hood close to the front bumper. There is an iron blocking access to the crank pulley, remove it as well. 4. Put the wooden support on the strong side of the oil pan so that it does not coincide with the middle of the engine oil pan, jack it up and raise the engine a little. Already that part of the crankcase is the thick part of the reinforced, square-square honeycomb texture. You will remove the engine mounts. The weight of the engine will ride on the jack. If there is an engine mounting lug at the bottom that prevents the oil pan from being lifted, remove it as well. 5. When you remove the engine fixing ear, lower the jack a little and you will remove the accessory belt. Check the engine mount! Are there any cracks, cracks, oil leaks? 6. Remove the accessory belt by loosening the tension ball of the accessory belt with a 16 wrench. 7. Remove the accessory belt pulley 18 attached to the crank with a wrench. Removing it with a gun is simple. But if you did not lock the crank while removing it with the key, the crank will turn as you turn the key. In order to prevent this, if the vehicle is a manual gear, put the gear to 5, let someone press the brake fully, or put a screwdriver between the brake disc of the right wheel and put it on the ground to prevent the disc from rotating, so loosen the hub bolt of the pulley. In automatic transmissions, remove the starter motor and squeeze a screwdriver or chisel into the flywheel. Or get the crank locking device or have it done at your lathe lock the crank, gently press the crank against the lock pin and remove the 18 key retained bolts on the crank pulley hub. Visually inspect the crank seal. Is there an oil leak from the felt? There are many and it needs to be changed. 8. Jack up the engine again. You will remove the timing protection cover and the connecting rod of the engine mount. 9. The timing cover is snap fastened and there is a clip screw which is removed with a Torx T25 screwdriver. Unscrew the screw, remove the clip that the screw tightened. 10. Open the clips of the timing protection cover to open like a wallet and open the 2 clips that are attached to the plastic lower protection on the engine from the sides. 11. Unscrew the tie rod of the engine mount. 12. Lower the engine with the jack again, remove the 2nd part under the timing protection cover by opening 2 snaps. 13. Under the starter motor, there is a bolt to be opened with an E14 socket in the hole that will be accessed to the crank to lock the crank, unscrew it and attach the crank locking device, the dimensions of which are given below. After locking the crank, turn the bolt on the crank pulley slightly to the right and left with the 18 key, and feel and hear that the crank is locked and hit the bolt. If the keyway on the crank is at the 12 o'clock position, the pistons 1 to 4 are at top dead center. Someone who does not know this, removes the spark plug of the 1 piston to determine the position of the crank, connects a comparator there or swings a long iron rod. He turns the crank and finds the position until he sees that the 1st piston has come to the highest level, the place where the iron bar rises and stops and starts to descend. Now, when the keyway on the crank is at the 12 o'clock position - when the pistons -1 and 4 are at top dead center - lock the crank with the apparatus. It is seen that the white lines in the range of 6 tooth grooves on the timing belt coincide with the two round notches located on the gear on the crank at 3 o'clock and 6 o'clock positions. The white line located on the notch at 6 o'clock is the white line on the inside and outside of the same groove of the timing belt. To install the crank locking device, turn the engine to the right (clockwise, that is, the engine is not turned to the left, the direction of rotation is right, clockwise) by inserting a wrench into the bolt on the eccentric pulley hub. Also look under the eccentric pulley, visually inspect the eccentric seal from the bottom of the hub where the bolt is attached. Is there an oil leak from the felt? There are many and it needs to be changed. 14. Screw the crank locking device all the way in and put the crank pulley on the crank temporarily to make sure that the crank is locked, and turn the pulley with your hand, when you bring the 11 o'clock key to 12 o'clock, hear and feel the crank hit the locking bracket and not turn any more. 15. With the crank key at 12 o'clock, lock the eccentric gear pulley by inserting the eccentric gear pulley through the hole located on the pulley in the direction between 8 and 9 o'clock, using the stud with the dimensions given below.
I saved the video for reference for an up-and-coming job to do on my Nissan, I came here to see what was involved and had no fear in doing it but a good walkthrough, I just need to order the bits off Fleabay and crack on.
@@seanparsons5025 it’s hard for me to say to be honest mate .. I’ve always had access to snap on and Bosch machine so haven’t really had much experience with any budget machines
@@diydaly update - I replaced my timing belt today using your video for reference throughout. It took a long time, but we got there in the end. Fitting and routing the new belts was the most challenging part, and it took me the best part of an hour to find the torx head bolt 😂. All good though. Thanks again
Have just completed this on my Quasqai i would advise that you need a very good trolley jack as you have to lift the engine quite high to get the alu plate back on - this is so little space in the J10 to fit it.
Excellent tutorial thanks. While turning the engine twice by hand to check timing the belt was slipping towards the outside edge of all the pulleys, nearly coming off the crank pulley. What could be causing this?
@@paulwilson2709your crankshaft pulley probably wasn't on. You need to mount it (dont tighten it yet) before turning the engine so the belt gets properly aligned.
16. Mark the Fuel Pump sprocket and the motor housing from the 1 o'clock position at the level of the bright bolt. Is it timing with the camshaft as there is no system to lock the fuel pump gear pulley when the Fuel Pump sprocket is in this position? In order not to lose the position of the fuel pump pulley because it is not clear, fix the fuel pump gear pulley in a way that does not allow its position to change by passing a single core cable through the pulley and connecting it anywhere. At the very least, hold it in such a way as to prevent him from accidentally making a full turn. 17. If the lines on the old timing belt remain, one of the white lines on the belt will coincide with the 12 o'clock round marked tooth on the camshaft pulley, the other line on the belt will coincide with the 1 o'clock round marked tooth on the fuel pump sprocket, the other two lines on the belt close together On the other hand, when the key of the small toothed pulley on the crank is at the 12 o'clock position, the lines will coincide with the tooth parts marked with a circular notch at 3 o'clock and 6 o'clock (both inside and outside the painted groove). There are 19 teeth between the marked points of the camshaft and fuel pump pulley-between the white lines. 18. Loosen the timing belt tensioner ball 13 with a wrench, release the tension of the belt, remove the timing belt and pull it upwards. 19. Remove the timing belt tensioner ball. 20. Unscrew the 4 bolts of the timing belt protection cover, which is attached to the engine body, where the timing belt protection cover is snapped. Remove the accessory belt idler pulley. Because while the plastic part is being dragged down and removed, the accessory belt gets under the idler pulley, prevents it and does not come out. You can pull it out from below. 2 of the bolts are below, you can reach the others from above or below. 21. The life of the circulation pump is as long as the life of the timing belt, it is highly recommended to replace it, but if you say that you will change the timing belt of a 5-year-old vehicle before 70,000 km is complete, is there a chance that the circulation pump will manage until the 2nd timing belt change? Has. But I say don't take the risk. If you do not intend to replace it, check the circulation pump. Is there a water leak? Did a leak occur and make a yellow rust on the edges? Hold the pulley and shake it, does it make a gap in your belly? If there is already one of these, it is essential to change the circulation pump. Yes, put a pan on the bottom of the circulation pump, loosen the bolts of the circulation pump, first loosen the bolt in the lower left corner, let the remaining cooling water flow from there and shake the circulation pump back and forth. The gasket may be stuck down. 22. Scrape the old gasket in the place where the new circulation pump will be installed, clean it well, polish it with sandpaper. 23. Apply a thin layer of heat resistant sealant or dyson silicone to the bottom (surface of the pump) and top (to the motor body) (or both sides of the seal) metal seal of the new circulation pump. If there are air bubbles in the silicone, it may cause water leakage. You will apply a thin layer. 24. Install the circulation pump. Wrap Teflon tape on the bolts. Anyway, you need to apply liquid gasket to the bolt so that there is no water leakage from the bottom of the bolt in the lower left corner and the upper left corner, but you should take this precaution for all of them by wrapping Teflon tape on all bolts to prevent loosening or for sealing. 25. Grab the cover that is attached to the timing belt protection engine body, where the timing belt protection cover is snapped, from the bottom, then work from the top and bend the tip under the fuel pump pulley to snap the cover into place and tighten the bolts. Some craftsmen remove the fuel pump pulley and assemble it that way, rather than putting the plastic cover under the pulley. 26. Tighten a little bit by inserting the tab of the timing tensioner ball into its seat, wrapping Teflon tape around the bolt held with the 13 key. In a moment, when you put the belt on, you will stretch it and tighten it completely. 27. Are the number of teeth, length, width, code the same when comparing the old timing belt with the new timing belt? 28. Wash the gears, pulleys and all the places where the timing belt will be mounted, and all the places where it will creep right and left, with brake lining spray and clean it from oil and dust. Especially in the name of oil, nothing should be left. 29. Swing the timing belt from the top with the arrow pointing in the direction of engine rotation (clockwise, rotation direction to the right), first thread the belt into the sprocket on the crank, paying attention to the white lines. The white lines should coincide with 6 o'clock and 3 o'clock. Then clamp something under the sprocket to secure the belt, so that the belt doesn't come off the sprocket while working upstream. There is an easier method below to install the timing belt, you can also apply it.
45. Make the final checks and install the iron that prevents reaching the crank pulley. Replace the wheel hood and mount the wheel. 46. Prepare the engine coolant by mixing distilled water and half antifreeze and fill the expansion tank. The system will be deaerated from two points. 1. Open the bleeder plug at the bottom of the vacuum pump, near the thermostat. Add water to the expansion tank until constant water comes out and let the air come out. 2. Also, open the air intake plug on the heater hose that goes into the vehicle, in the same way, take the air from the system until stable water comes from here. 47. Plug in the negative terminal you removed from the battery. 48. Start the tool. Turn on the heater, bring it to the last stage, start the engine until the thermostat opens, increase the temperature. And again check the level of the coolant expansion tank and complete it. Check the tension of the timing tensioner one more time, the tensioner adjustment should be the same. Crank locking device (You can have it made at the lathe, or you can buy it) MOT-1489 Total length of bolt: 90 mm Diameter of the head of the bolt (knurled hand tightening): 19 mm Bolt head length (knurled hand tightening): 21 mm The bottom of the bolt is 12 mm long, Metric 10 x 1.5 threads, The rest of the bolt is Ø8 mm straight 57 mm tall Eccentric Pulley Locking Apparatus MOT-1430 It can also be a metric 8x120 mm bolt or a Ø8 mm drill bit.
Excellent work! One question: how do you tighten the screw od the crankshaft pulley? It is supposed to be tightened with about 120Nm and 100°. Is it ok to keep the crankshaft blocking pin in the motor block to put that much force on the system?
A tip don't forget to fit the back part of the cover before putting the belt on as by the time you realise the job is 90% done and you're going straight back to 40% 🥵
Hello everyone, i did the timing belt and water pump on my 2016 Kangoo today, really wasnt to difficult at all, most awkward bit was getting the plug out from under the starter so I could insert the locking pin, I was working on the drive so did not have the luxury of a ramp. Also, I removed all of the timing belt covers without having to move the alternator. If your thinking of having a go, do it, just take your time. Ive also got a locking kit surplus to requirements now, should anyone need one. Cheers.
@@davie2191 I've tried 3 times to leave my email address here mate, but you tube keeps removing comment. Need to think of a way to make contact and I will send you the locking kit mate
This is a very good video not only in the way you deliver the information but the quality of the visuals, close focus on the tensioner for example. One of the best without doubt. I have a Qashqai K9K belt to do next week but I think this will have the keyless crankshaft sprocket maybe, we shall see. I've subscribed now so shall watch with interest.
Thanks for the comments , feedback always appreciated 😁 hard to say I’ve actually only had 1 with keyless pulley and that was on a 2004 clio 100hp version
there's a pin for the cam, the dot on the fuel pump should be 19 teeth from the cam pulley mark if I remember correct & you'll need to use the crankshaft pin tool for the crank.. if you check my channel ive just done a 2015 Mercedes a class belt on a 1.5 dci, slightly different but timing methods are the same
When belt is sliding on outer edge there is 2 possible solutions. 1. On older engines you need to rotate fuel to gearbox side. After that tension t belt by official procedure. 2. Timing belt tensioner is tensioned at anticlockwise position, retension it at clockwise position
Hello, i do the same work last summer in the 1.5 dci 2003 model. You can run in front direction with unscrew the high bolt of alternator for put off thé plastic who is undo the pump of gasoil. It is more rapid that put off this pulley.
Thankyou for the very informative video. Seems awfully fiddly. If the video length is indicative of how long it takes I'd rather pay you to take replace mine. Regards Stephen
thanks, cleared my confusion on the "adjustable cam' and its role. Will attempt the same on a k9k 886 engine. Hopefully most steps are same. Any tips on if the flywheel can be locked in a similar engines (Duster is my vehicle)?
Glad it helped , yeah it should be pretty much the same mate , it always check for that locking pin hole first but there's a good chance you'll find its got a key way.. personally I like to use the pin kit regardless
Noticed on this Engine the dipstick and oil filler is separate but on my Renault Captur it’s a all in one affair? Are there more than one versions of the K9K or is the same?
Could be the water pump but there’s plenty of other things to check like the radiator, water hoses , thermostat housing, heater matrix etc .. could be a leak from anywhere on the cooling system
The only think you can really do is remove the top cover and inspect it , see what brand it is , check for obvious signs of wear and look for and timing marked (paint marks) usually I sign it’s been replaced
One question: What was the e torx size on the crankcase plug? In some videos i hear its E11 and in some E14. The duster manual says E14. Maybe different k9k s have different size plug. Cant seem to find a kit with E11
Would this be the case for all the k9k 1.5 dci as ive got a 2015 nissan pulasr and im struggling to find a kit unless they all come with the necessary bolts but just dont have them in the description of the product
1st of all i timed the engine & it was correct apart from fuel pump was out of sync. engine would turn over. Now i started again but this time sorted the fuel pump. came time to test it & valves & pistons made contact. so started again, this time i took glow plug out of piston 1 & made sure it was at tdc. put cam locking pin in. put crank locking pin in & put belt on. again tested it & it still made contact. you guessed it i started again, turned crank around till i had tdc again. inserted pins. belt on, still contact. and again turned crank to tdc again,timed up & still contact. Am i missing something stupidly obvious?
With my Xantia, the only way I could get the cranks pully bolt loose is with the help of the starter. I wonder if that's possible with these cars that have a start/stop system....
@@diydaly ok. I managed with a breaker bar and used the old serpentine belt to block the pulley. When tightening the 95 degrees i snapped off one of the 1/2 inch extensions but I made it till 90 degrees before that happened so I guess that's good enough.
Hi mate. How much km this belt had and at what number of km you need to change the timing belt for 1.5 dci? Some mechanics told me 120.000 km, others from 70.000 to 90.000 km
Hi, This guide is great and thank you for taking the time. Ibhave a kangoo van and was going great guns until trying to remove the crank pin after fitting the new belt, l can't unscrew it, it feels like it has somehow become bent. I had trouble getting the crank pulley off but had someone in the car in 4th gear, foot on the brake. So l have kind of git towards the end but cannot remove that pin. I have tried turning it with grips etc but l can feel it rotate and hit the crank, both ways. Any help is greatly appreciated, it is currently sat on the drive 😢😂
Thanks! Arr I’ve seen that done before! It can be tricky to get out .. you gona have to get some Mole grips of sumet on it to get a decent purchase .. if it won’t budge you may need to remove the sump to access it better and knock it straight
@diydaly thank you, will take tge sump off, l am worried the timing may be out if l bent the pin? The cam pin was in. When l get the pin removed, if l turn it by hand will l know? Thanks again
@@littlemilllosers yeah it may be slightly out , it will still turn if it’s 1-2 teeth out .. try get the pin out then double check it .. you might find it’s ok .. your not meant to leave the pin in when put any pressure against it that’s all .. I’m sure your get it out ok 👍
We did it, granted it took all week (few hours after work every night). One problem we came across though, our belt is 119 not 123, the fuel pump sprocket is way smaller than yours. Once I realised that, it was plane sailing. Granted, I had to buy another kit short notice with the right belt size (the 123 belt kit was an eBay special). Lessons learned check it twice 😅 All the best with future videos though. They are insightful, helpful and clear.
@@diydaly or maybe you will have knowledge about the car Renault Megane 2 1.5dci 2005 K9K732 105KM engine on Siemens (camshaft sensor on the valve cover not on the pump) because I am spreading my hands as well as the mechanics, spent a lot of money and he still does not work well for a long time in the computer it shows the error DF097 Def.1 That is the error of the camshaft sensor which is at the top on the cover. Unfortunately, it has been replaced up to 4 times with a new one and the error is still there. The car starts very poorly because of this, spins 10 times before it starts, probably almost everything has already been checked, this error is also when the timing is incorrectly set, but the timing is set several times, checked and nothing, and even a new computer replaced and the installation checked to the computer, maybe you have an idea what's wrong? Thanks in advance
@@abcabc-xo8qp yeah I’d definelty like to know that the timing is 100% correct , some of them engines have a keyless crank pulley so it will need checking with the pin in the crank .. also haas the wiring to the sensor been checked correctly
Gawd knows why he removed it. There's literally no point. If you can't get the belt on then take the cam pulley off, slip the belt and then put it back on.
Hi I did it with a buzz gun , if I was doing it without a buzz gun id put it in 4th gear and get someone to press the brake down hard or lock the flywheel using a screwdriver in-between the teeth
@@diydaly is it possible to mount the belt without unscrewing the 3 camshaft bolts? Mine has the camshaft fixed. Normaly the adjustment was made trough the cranckshaft sprocket. And I intend to replace the crankshaft sproket with a sprocket with one with blocker just like yours. I noticed even though the bolt was tighten during time it did slipped a few mm. Not to mention I found grease on the cranckshaft end.
Excellent video proper job well done. Just for fun, pardon the pun, count how many times he says "JUST" during the whole video....... Now that I've mentioned it you won't be able to stop hearing the word. Im just playing no offence intended at all, in my videos I say "erm" "erm" like a total idiot before I say something. 🤣🤣😂😂
@@diydaly this is a 2007 dci 1.5l would the renault clio III, 2011 dci 1.5l be the same or did they change by then? Ive got a mate who wants the cambelt doing on his and the ac condenser is leaking, got any advice for replacing the condenser? Front end off job or not as bad as that? Im struggling just to find the correct one, they say some are condensor and radiator combined. Not looking forward to it.....
It shows how much patience he has.... Every time he said "just" i thought to myself: "No effort is too much for this bloke: - He is doing a proper job" Great video, thank you!!!!
@@diydaly And was that the original belt from new on that car as my mark 2 Dacia Logan MCV diesel has 58k miles and would it be safe to go to around 70 k miles before changing the belt and water pump and is a 2014 model 1.5 DCI engine.
@@wewouldneversellourclubfor3166 I’m not 100% sure but I think it was as it was well ready for replacement! I’ll have to check the exact interval but i think you should be ok at that
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Torque Settings :
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(M14 bolt) 120NM + 95 degrees
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Wheel bolts = 130 NM
Check out my other timing belt videos: ruclips.net/p/PLDTPJANi9HjoaO_bcawhaGNVnFCg1HWCV
Check out my other renault / dci videos : ruclips.net/p/PLDTPJANi9HjrkE0q8cjDi87PhuVtz2l-i
It's nice to see someone doing a proper thorough job using the proper tools without cutting corners using brute force & ignorance. No detail was left out. I just did the same engine in a 2014 Quashqai like you favouring the Gates kit. I highly recommend Parts in Motion, half the price of Euro. My fuel pump sprocket had 4 pips randomly spaced. Whats that about? not that it really matters on them. Great content.
Well done. From the US and only worked on US muscle cars for 20yrs+. Now with the US Navy and in Spain. A friend needed this done and ask me to do it for him and thanks to you I had no problem doing it. But that doesn't mean that I like Renault's lol.
But anyhow compared to the other videos on here yours is superb thank you.
lol glad to hear it helped! thanks for your comments.. much appreciated 👍
30. Align the timing belt to the fuel pump gear pulley by positioning it on the circulation pump pulley. In other words, both the camshaft pulley and the fuel pump pulley should be loosened before the belt is fully seated. Because you will stretch the belt and put it on the tensioner ball and force it through. You will have completed the assembly by sliding the belt after you have aligned the belt on the camshaft and fuel pump pulleys with the teeth from the side. Eventually, the white line on the eccentric pulley will coincide with the round point on the tread at 12 o'clock. On the pulley of the fuel pump, the white line will coincide with the round point on the tooth at 1 o'clock. On the cog in the crank, the white lines of the belt will coincide at 6 o'clock and 3 o'clock. How to install the timing belt effortlessly is as follows: After the timing belt has been properly aligned with the camshaft pulley, fuel pump pulley, circulation and tension ball pulley, remove the gear pulley on the crank and attach it to the belt synth. Hold the gear with the belt and attach it to the pulley so that the white line painted inside and out will be at the 6 o'clock position, and the painted white line from the outside will be at the 3 o'clock position. (The inner part of the crank gear may be rusty, moldy, and if it boils over time, it may be difficult to remove again, so lightly polish both the surface of the crank where the gear enters and the inside of the gear with a sandpaper.) This is the easiest way. Another timing assembly method is as follows: Pass the timing belt to all toothed pulleys without the tensioner ball mounted. Then push the tensioner ball against the timing belt and tighten the bolt by placing the claw in place. This method is also simple.
31. After the timing belt is installed correctly, in order to tighten the timing belt, loosen the 3 bolts held by the 13 keys on the eccentric pulley and turn the pulley clockwise until it rests on the slot. While tensioning the belt with the tensioner ball, the pulley will turn counterclockwise and the tension of the belt will be adjusted evenly.
32. Tension the belt by inserting 6 hex keys into the timing tension ball. The arrow mark will fall between the two lines and will be closer to the second line below. So the tension will be a little more than medium. When the belt is tensioned, tighten the tensioner ball bolt 13 with a Phillips wrench. If possible, use these 13 keyed bolts on the tension ball by procuring a new one. Sometimes this bolt does not come out of the timing belt.
33. Tighten the bolts, which are held on the eccentric pulley with 3 pcs. 13 keys.
34. Remove the fixing pin on the eccentric gear pulley, Remove the part that you clamped on the gear on the crank, Remove the crank locking pin.
35. To understand that the timing belt is installed correctly, to make sure that the engine synth is correct and whether the valves are colliding with the piston heads, remove the crank lock pin and the lock pin of the camshaft pulley, insert a key into the bolt in the camshaft pulley hub and slowly turn the engine clockwise, that is, to the right. turn it 2 turns listening to the sound. If everything is normal, feel that the valves will not hit the piston heads, and the white lines on the belt will coincide correctly with the notches on the pulleys. If so, it's in the engine synth.
36. Check the indicator showing the tension amount of the timing tensioner ball arrow may have slipped back. If so, hold it with 6 hex sockets and re-tighten it with a 13 star wrench and recheck the tensioner ball by turning the engine two turns. After starting the engine, recheck the condition of the tensioner ball.
37. Install the engine mount tie rod.
38. Mount the lower part of the timing protection cover and snap it.
39. Mount the upper part of the timing protection cover with snaps and fasten with a Torx T25 clip-on screw.
40. Install the engine mount.
41. Remove and replace the accessory belt tensioner ball, tighten lightly. If possible, use new bolts on the tension balls as well. Feel the air conditioner pulley with your hand. Does it have a jagged surface? Are there any sharp broken corners in the ducts? Otherwise, it breaks the accessory belt, rubs against the timing protection cover, carves the cover, makes a hole, and if a piece enters between the timing belt, the engine will jump to cents. So, check it well and put on a new accessory belt and turn the belt on the longest part of the belt with your hand and see that it turns a quarter turn at most, this is the measure. And fully tighten the accessory belt tensioner ball.
42. Reinstall the retaining pin on the eccentric sprocket pulley, reinstall the crank locking pin. You will tighten the crank pulley.
43. Tighten the bolt on the crank pulley with an 18 wrench to 125 Nm + 90°. Use new bolts, use bolts with a tensile and yield strength of at least 10x9. When comparing the old bolt with the new bolt, the diameter and length should be the same. If the new bolt is short, do not use it, supply the correct bolt. Definitely don't use the old bolt, it has creeped out, it can break in a short time and cause trouble.
44. Remove the fixing pin on the eccentric gear pulley, remove the crank locking pin, put Teflon tape on its E14 bolt and replace it.
Thank you your guidance, the timing belt on Nissan kubister go cut so valves are gone
@@CliffordSimpungwe-go7um what was Km?
Thank you very much for taking the time to make this guide. I've just changed the belts on my Scenic - my first attempt at a belts change and couldn't have done it without your detailed tuition. Top man 👍
Nice one, Glad it helped.. thanks for the comment 👍
What a great job, the attention to detail is amazing, so many garages wouldn't bother slackening the three bolts on the cam sprocket. Keep up the good work, i expect your business is prospering.
Thanks 👍 comment much appreciated
Im doing this tomorrow, i dont think it will be any problems after seeing this. Thanks and have a nice weekend!
👍👍
The best video on this timing belt job on RUclips mate. Thanks 🙏
nice one, always nice to hear some positive feedback 👍
Sir,
Thank you for the great video. Not only do you seem to be a skilled mechanic, you also are a talented teacher.
You are very welcome.. thanks for the feedback, always nice to hear positive views 😃👌
@@diydaly You earned the appreciation. Have a good one.
@@S.D.P. 👍
Thank you. Followed this and all good. Slight differences on my model (2015) is that the cambelt cover is different and doesn't need to remove the diesel pump wheel. Also I'd suggest putting the auxiliary belt on before doing the engine mounts as it gives you more space.
This is an excellent descriptive video and one of the best I’ve seen. I noticed just one thing though. At least one water pump bolt goes through the engine block into the water jacket. These bolts will require a sealant to the threads to prevent leaks.
Thanks for the comments Brian! much appreciated.. ill take note of that 👌👍
I hadn’t thought about that but now you mention it when you remove the bottom left bolt the coolant comes out. I have done a few and never used sealant maybe I have been lucky, but I will note it for next time 👍
On my 2016 Renault Duster (Rebranded as Renault here is South Africa) the bottom bolt on the firewall side had coolant coming out of it. Top one was dry.
Just finished this job on my mk1 Kangoo. Access was a little fiddlier for some bits due to it having AC, seems like it was an afterthought!
Your guide was really helpful and much appreciated! Have subscribed.
Glad it helped! Thanks for the sub
Thanks Dude for uploading your vid.Today I changed the Timingbelt and the Waterpump on a Nissan Pulsar 2014, with the K9K Engine
without problebms.i do it like you in your vid .Your Vid is the best i found on youtube.Thank you very much for your exactly video.Best regards from Germany and keep going on Buddy👍👍
Glad it helped.. thanks for the comments! feedback always appreciated as a small channel 👌😃👍
The best explanation with clear picture of the components, keep it up.
Thanks a lot! comments much appreciated 👌👍
RENAULT 1.5 dci K9K
MEGANE 4, MERCEDES, CLIO 4, DACIA, NISSAN, SUZUKI
REPLACEMENT OF TIMING BELT SET, ACCESSORY BELT SET AND WATER PUMP
1. Disconnect the negative terminal from the battery
2. Discharge the radiator and engine water by unwinding the water hose connected to the lower part of the radiator from the radiator side. When the water drains well, reassemble the hose.
3. If the right wheel and hood are two parts, remove only the right hood close to the front bumper. There is an iron blocking access to the crank pulley, remove it as well.
4. Put the wooden support on the strong side of the oil pan so that it does not coincide with the middle of the engine oil pan, jack it up and raise the engine a little. Already that part of the crankcase is the thick part of the reinforced, square-square honeycomb texture. You will remove the engine mounts. The weight of the engine will ride on the jack. If there is an engine mounting lug at the bottom that prevents the oil pan from being lifted, remove it as well.
5. When you remove the engine fixing ear, lower the jack a little and you will remove the accessory belt. Check the engine mount! Are there any cracks, cracks, oil leaks?
6. Remove the accessory belt by loosening the tension ball of the accessory belt with a 16 wrench.
7. Remove the accessory belt pulley 18 attached to the crank with a wrench. Removing it with a gun is simple. But if you did not lock the crank while removing it with the key, the crank will turn as you turn the key. In order to prevent this, if the vehicle is a manual gear, put the gear to 5, let someone press the brake fully, or put a screwdriver between the brake disc of the right wheel and put it on the ground to prevent the disc from rotating, so loosen the hub bolt of the pulley. In automatic transmissions, remove the starter motor and squeeze a screwdriver or chisel into the flywheel. Or get the crank locking device or have it done at your lathe lock the crank, gently press the crank against the lock pin and remove the 18 key retained bolts on the crank pulley hub. Visually inspect the crank seal. Is there an oil leak from the felt? There are many and it needs to be changed.
8. Jack up the engine again. You will remove the timing protection cover and the connecting rod of the engine mount.
9. The timing cover is snap fastened and there is a clip screw which is removed with a Torx T25 screwdriver. Unscrew the screw, remove the clip that the screw tightened.
10. Open the clips of the timing protection cover to open like a wallet and open the 2 clips that are attached to the plastic lower protection on the engine from the sides.
11. Unscrew the tie rod of the engine mount.
12. Lower the engine with the jack again, remove the 2nd part under the timing protection cover by opening 2 snaps.
13. Under the starter motor, there is a bolt to be opened with an E14 socket in the hole that will be accessed to the crank to lock the crank, unscrew it and attach the crank locking device, the dimensions of which are given below. After locking the crank, turn the bolt on the crank pulley slightly to the right and left with the 18 key, and feel and hear that the crank is locked and hit the bolt. If the keyway on the crank is at the 12 o'clock position, the pistons 1 to 4 are at top dead center. Someone who does not know this, removes the spark plug of the 1 piston to determine the position of the crank, connects a comparator there or swings a long iron rod. He turns the crank and finds the position until he sees that the 1st piston has come to the highest level, the place where the iron bar rises and stops and starts to descend. Now, when the keyway on the crank is at the 12 o'clock position - when the pistons -1 and 4 are at top dead center - lock the crank with the apparatus. It is seen that the white lines in the range of 6 tooth grooves on the timing belt coincide with the two round notches located on the gear on the crank at 3 o'clock and 6 o'clock positions. The white line located on the notch at 6 o'clock is the white line on the inside and outside of the same groove of the timing belt. To install the crank locking device, turn the engine to the right (clockwise, that is, the engine is not turned to the left, the direction of rotation is right, clockwise) by inserting a wrench into the bolt on the eccentric pulley hub. Also look under the eccentric pulley, visually inspect the eccentric seal from the bottom of the hub where the bolt is attached. Is there an oil leak from the felt? There are many and it needs to be changed.
14. Screw the crank locking device all the way in and put the crank pulley on the crank temporarily to make sure that the crank is locked, and turn the pulley with your hand, when you bring the 11 o'clock key to 12 o'clock, hear and feel the crank hit the locking bracket and not turn any more.
15. With the crank key at 12 o'clock, lock the eccentric gear pulley by inserting the eccentric gear pulley through the hole located on the pulley in the direction between 8 and 9 o'clock, using the stud with the dimensions given below.
Just changed my auxilary and cambelt following this video. Thanks, couldn't off done it without!!
Glad it helped! thanks for the comment! 👍
did you use timing pins?
@@jumberkupra you can just paint mark it but I’d rather use the pins , you can pick a set up for about £10
The most informative "how to" clip I have seen, Thankyou and subscribed
Thanks for the comment , much appreciated as a small YT channel & Thanks for the sub! 👌😃
I saved the video for reference for an up-and-coming job to do on my Nissan, I came here to see what was involved and had no fear in doing it but a good walkthrough, I just need to order the bits off Fleabay and crack on.
👍👍
Wow! Great video mate! Seems like a pretty decent design to change the timing belt. I will probably do this job now thanks to you :) Thanks again!
Glad to help 👍👍
This is amazing video, thanks for uploading. 99% the same engine in the Nissan Qashqai so same procedure/ torque settings etc.
You are welcome, glad to help 👍👌
@@diydaly
I have a Dacia Logan MCV 1.5 DCI and how long does it take to change the belt and water pump from start to finish.
@@wewouldneversellourclubfor3166 roughly 3-4 hours mate
Absolutely brilliant video just doing the same job myself so a fantastic help.
Thanks 👍
Awesome vid, now I'd like injector replacement video and coding next, for the same engine!
I’ve done one for injector seal replacement on the dci but not coding .. it’s strait forward but you will need a decent diagnostic machine to do it 👍
@@diydaly thanks mate, do u mind me asking which diagnostic machine u would recommend without spending thousands of pounds for one?
@@seanparsons5025 it’s hard for me to say to be honest mate .. I’ve always had access to snap on and Bosch machine so haven’t really had much experience with any budget machines
Thank you for this, very informative and clearly described every step of the way. I will be giving this a go myself in the next couple of weeks
Nice one , thanks for the comments , much appreciated 👍👌
@@diydaly update - I replaced my timing belt today using your video for reference throughout. It took a long time, but we got there in the end. Fitting and routing the new belts was the most challenging part, and it took me the best part of an hour to find the torx head bolt 😂. All good though. Thanks again
@@DR-iq3vy nice one , glad you got it done! at least you found it in the end! ha
Great Video & very helpful however if the injector pump pulley moves do you recount the teeth to ensure the alignment is correct?
That is correct , also mark it first
Have just completed this on my Quasqai i would advise that you need a very good trolley jack as you have to lift the engine quite high to get the alu plate back on - this is so little space in the J10 to fit it.
👍👍
Excellent tutorial thanks. While turning the engine twice by hand to check timing the belt was slipping towards the outside edge of all the pulleys, nearly coming off the crank pulley. What could be causing this?
Best check all the pulleys for play , shouldnt really drift across to the point it would come off
Thanks for reply. Ok I’ll check that 🙏
@@paulwilson2709your crankshaft pulley probably wasn't on. You need to mount it (dont tighten it yet) before turning the engine so the belt gets properly aligned.
usta 1.5 dci sembol var 150 km hızda klima açık ken hararet çok yükseliyor nedeni nedir bilgilendirirseniz sevinirim
Very helpful and clear video. I have to do this for my Quasqui soon. Thanks
Glad it was helpful! thanks for the comment, there's a nice bit of room on the qashqai too 👍
Many Thanks for taking the time to make this video, it's a very detailed and all explained perfectly. Thanks a million great job.👍
Glad you like it! 👍 thanks for the feedback much appreciated 👌👌
How do you find this small piece of metal that you insert into this hole before changing the belt? Thanks
16. Mark the Fuel Pump sprocket and the motor housing from the 1 o'clock position at the level of the bright bolt. Is it timing with the camshaft as there is no system to lock the fuel pump gear pulley when the Fuel Pump sprocket is in this position? In order not to lose the position of the fuel pump pulley because it is not clear, fix the fuel pump gear pulley in a way that does not allow its position to change by passing a single core cable through the pulley and connecting it anywhere. At the very least, hold it in such a way as to prevent him from accidentally making a full turn.
17. If the lines on the old timing belt remain, one of the white lines on the belt will coincide with the 12 o'clock round marked tooth on the camshaft pulley, the other line on the belt will coincide with the 1 o'clock round marked tooth on the fuel pump sprocket, the other two lines on the belt close together On the other hand, when the key of the small toothed pulley on the crank is at the 12 o'clock position, the lines will coincide with the tooth parts marked with a circular notch at 3 o'clock and 6 o'clock (both inside and outside the painted groove). There are 19 teeth between the marked points of the camshaft and fuel pump pulley-between the white lines.
18. Loosen the timing belt tensioner ball 13 with a wrench, release the tension of the belt, remove the timing belt and pull it upwards.
19. Remove the timing belt tensioner ball.
20. Unscrew the 4 bolts of the timing belt protection cover, which is attached to the engine body, where the timing belt protection cover is snapped. Remove the accessory belt idler pulley. Because while the plastic part is being dragged down and removed, the accessory belt gets under the idler pulley, prevents it and does not come out. You can pull it out from below. 2 of the bolts are below, you can reach the others from above or below.
21. The life of the circulation pump is as long as the life of the timing belt, it is highly recommended to replace it, but if you say that you will change the timing belt of a 5-year-old vehicle before 70,000 km is complete, is there a chance that the circulation pump will manage until the 2nd timing belt change? Has. But I say don't take the risk. If you do not intend to replace it, check the circulation pump. Is there a water leak? Did a leak occur and make a yellow rust on the edges? Hold the pulley and shake it, does it make a gap in your belly? If there is already one of these, it is essential to change the circulation pump. Yes, put a pan on the bottom of the circulation pump, loosen the bolts of the circulation pump, first loosen the bolt in the lower left corner, let the remaining cooling water flow from there and shake the circulation pump back and forth. The gasket may be stuck down.
22. Scrape the old gasket in the place where the new circulation pump will be installed, clean it well, polish it with sandpaper.
23. Apply a thin layer of heat resistant sealant or dyson silicone to the bottom (surface of the pump) and top (to the motor body) (or both sides of the seal) metal seal of the new circulation pump. If there are air bubbles in the silicone, it may cause water leakage. You will apply a thin layer.
24. Install the circulation pump. Wrap Teflon tape on the bolts. Anyway, you need to apply liquid gasket to the bolt so that there is no water leakage from the bottom of the bolt in the lower left corner and the upper left corner, but you should take this precaution for all of them by wrapping Teflon tape on all bolts to prevent loosening or for sealing.
25. Grab the cover that is attached to the timing belt protection engine body, where the timing belt protection cover is snapped, from the bottom, then work from the top and bend the tip under the fuel pump pulley to snap the cover into place and tighten the bolts. Some craftsmen remove the fuel pump pulley and assemble it that way, rather than putting the plastic cover under the pulley.
26. Tighten a little bit by inserting the tab of the timing tensioner ball into its seat, wrapping Teflon tape around the bolt held with the 13 key. In a moment, when you put the belt on, you will stretch it and tighten it completely.
27. Are the number of teeth, length, width, code the same when comparing the old timing belt with the new timing belt?
28. Wash the gears, pulleys and all the places where the timing belt will be mounted, and all the places where it will creep right and left, with brake lining spray and clean it from oil and dust. Especially in the name of oil, nothing should be left.
29. Swing the timing belt from the top with the arrow pointing in the direction of engine rotation (clockwise, rotation direction to the right), first thread the belt into the sprocket on the crank, paying attention to the white lines. The white lines should coincide with 6 o'clock and 3 o'clock. Then clamp something under the sprocket to secure the belt, so that the belt doesn't come off the sprocket while working upstream. There is an easier method below to install the timing belt, you can also apply it.
45. Make the final checks and install the iron that prevents reaching the crank pulley. Replace the wheel hood and mount the wheel.
46. Prepare the engine coolant by mixing distilled water and half antifreeze and fill the expansion tank. The system will be deaerated from two points. 1. Open the bleeder plug at the bottom of the vacuum pump, near the thermostat. Add water to the expansion tank until constant water comes out and let the air come out. 2. Also, open the air intake plug on the heater hose that goes into the vehicle, in the same way, take the air from the system until stable water comes from here.
47. Plug in the negative terminal you removed from the battery.
48. Start the tool. Turn on the heater, bring it to the last stage, start the engine until the thermostat opens, increase the temperature. And again check the level of the coolant expansion tank and complete it. Check the tension of the timing tensioner one more time, the tensioner adjustment should be the same.
Crank locking device (You can have it made at the lathe, or you can buy it) MOT-1489
Total length of bolt: 90 mm
Diameter of the head of the bolt (knurled hand tightening): 19 mm
Bolt head length (knurled hand tightening): 21 mm
The bottom of the bolt is 12 mm long, Metric 10 x 1.5 threads,
The rest of the bolt is Ø8 mm straight 57 mm tall
Eccentric Pulley Locking Apparatus MOT-1430
It can also be a metric 8x120 mm bolt or a Ø8 mm drill bit.
Excellent work! One question: how do you tighten the screw od the crankshaft pulley? It is supposed to be tightened with about 120Nm and 100°. Is it ok to keep the crankshaft blocking pin in the motor block to put that much force on the system?
Hi, no you can’t use the locking pin , u need to use a flywheel locking tool or jar the flywheel with a prybar mate
A tip don't forget to fit the back part of the cover before putting the belt on as by the time you realise the job is 90% done and you're going straight back to 40% 🥵
🤣 done that a few times before!
Excellent video.clearly explained and filmed.well done. I shall be looking out for more of the same. Thank-you.
Thanks for the comment Brian, much appreciated 👍👍
Hello everyone, i did the timing belt and water pump on my 2016 Kangoo today, really wasnt to difficult at all, most awkward bit was getting the plug out from under the starter so I could insert the locking pin, I was working on the drive so did not have the luxury of a ramp. Also, I removed all of the timing belt covers without having to move the alternator. If your thinking of having a go, do it, just take your time. Ive also got a locking kit surplus to requirements now, should anyone need one. Cheers.
👍 nice one , glad to hear you e got it done 👌
I'll have the locking kit if possible as I'm about to do my 1.5 dci
@@davie2191 I've tried 3 times to leave my email address here mate, but you tube keeps removing comment. Need to think of a way to make contact and I will send you the locking kit mate
This is a very good video not only in the way you deliver the information but the quality of the visuals, close focus on the tensioner for example. One of the best without doubt. I have a Qashqai K9K belt to do next week but I think this will have the keyless crankshaft sprocket maybe, we shall see. I've subscribed now so shall watch with interest.
Thanks for the comments , feedback always appreciated 😁 hard to say I’ve actually only had 1 with keyless pulley and that was on a 2004 clio 100hp version
best k9k timing video i could find! thanks to diy daly
Great video thankyou, I’ve got a test on a k9k cam belt on a rig however the belt is already out of time. How would I go about timing it correct?
there's a pin for the cam, the dot on the fuel pump should be 19 teeth from the cam pulley mark if I remember correct & you'll need to use the crankshaft pin tool for the crank.. if you check my channel ive just done a 2015 Mercedes a class belt on a 1.5 dci, slightly different but timing methods are the same
When belt is sliding on outer edge there is 2 possible solutions. 1. On older engines you need to rotate fuel to gearbox side. After that tension t belt by official procedure.
2. Timing belt tensioner is tensioned at anticlockwise position, retension it at clockwise position
thanks for the comment
You say there is no mark on the timing belt for the crank pulley. But at 34:00 you can see it on the inside of the belt . The 1.9 engine is the same .
lol to be honest I never even noticed that mark! obviously its on the inside of the belt 👌👍
Thanks for video. How come you didn’t torque set the crankshaft pully?
I’m fairly confident with the buzz gun , it’s saves locking the flywheel to torq it correctly that’s all mate
What is the replacement interval please. I own a 5 year old Mercedes B class with 55k on the clock which
Has this engine.
Brilliant video easy to follow many thanks
Glad to help , thanks for the comment 👍
Thank for this, clear concise example
You are welcome!
Hello, i do the same work last summer in the 1.5 dci 2003 model. You can run in front direction with unscrew the high bolt of alternator for put off thé plastic who is undo the pump of gasoil. It is more rapid that put off this pulley.
Thanks for the comment and tip , I’ll check that next time mate 👌👍
How did you make sure the pulley was tightened to the correct torque settings?
Just experience mate
Great video, full of information... how many hours should you set aside for this job please
Thanks for the comment , if you are setting out as a novice id say give yourself at least 3 hours
@@diydaly Thank you
👍
The video was speeded up so allow about 3 hours or so.
Thankyou for the very informative video. Seems awfully fiddly. If the video length is indicative of how long it takes I'd rather pay you to take replace mine. Regards Stephen
Yeah they area bit fiddle mate, quite tight access.. id say give yourself 3-4 hours
great video i can see why they cost upwards of 300+
👍 yeah fair bit involved
Good day, it's a great video. I have a question. Is the crank locking of the Renault 1.5 DCI and the 1.6 16 valve gasoline engine the same?
No it’s different mate
@@diydaly Thank you very much for your answer. Could you please share the size of the Renault 1.5 DCI crank locking pin? Please.🙏
Hello Sir , Can we apply the same procedure for Renault fluence 1.5 dci diesel 2012, or different anything ?
Yeah pretty much exactly the same mate 👍
thanks, cleared my confusion on the "adjustable cam' and its role. Will attempt the same on a k9k 886 engine. Hopefully most steps are same. Any tips on if the flywheel can be locked in a similar engines (Duster is my vehicle)?
Glad it helped , yeah it should be pretty much the same mate , it always check for that locking pin hole first but there's a good chance you'll find its got a key way.. personally I like to use the pin kit regardless
@@diydaly thanks, yes i bought the kit from sealey.
@@providacc01 yeah worth having it for the cost! 👌👍
Noticed on this Engine the dipstick and oil filler is separate but on my Renault Captur it’s a all in one affair? Are there more than one versions of the K9K or is the same?
Yeah quite a few different versions , engines the same just the surrounding items may differ
Great video, helped me a lot. Thanks
Thanks for the comment , glad to help 👍👍
great job, thanks for the clear instruction
You are welcome!
great video with excellent detail top marks matey
👍👌 thanks mate!
Excellent!! Bravo colleague very good and clean job. Good morning from Hellas!!!
Thanks for the comment 👍👍
Can you tell my if the timming belt sit in the store four the 10 years iths sthil good to?thanks
I wouldn’t recommend it tbh
Do you take the locking pins out before or after tightening the crankshaft pulley?
It ok if tightening with a buzz gun but you can’t leave it in if using a bar or torque wrench as it will bend the pin
@@diydaly what about a screwdriver in flywheel
yeah you could do that @@mattyguest7001
I've had a cambelt snapped on my 1.5 dci kangoo mk1. I've opened the water tank cap and water's leaked out, does this mean the water pump has failed?
Could be the water pump but there’s plenty of other things to check like the radiator, water hoses , thermostat housing, heater matrix etc .. could be a leak from anywhere on the cooling system
Massive watch Dude !! Nice video. Thanks :)
haha! I want the smaller version next time! glad you enjoyed it
Could you also give product reviews. It would be much helpful😊
👍👍 will do
Hi buddy I juts bought megan mk3 im worried about timing belt don't know if its been replaced or not how can I check it by my self? Please
The only think you can really do is remove the top cover and inspect it , see what brand it is , check for obvious signs of wear and look for and timing marked (paint marks) usually I sign it’s been replaced
Thank you for this very informative video!
Glad it was helpful! thanks for the comment
Hi I have a 1.5dci renault laguna can I use a timing belt gear from a mugen
its the same engine as in the Megane so should be all the same
One question: What was the e torx size on the crankcase plug? In some videos i hear its E11 and in some E14. The duster manual says E14. Maybe different k9k s have different size plug. Cant seem to find a kit with E11
Im fairly sure its an E11 mate, ive attached a link to a set including an E11 socket 👍 ebay.us/lZjqS7
Would this be the case for all the k9k 1.5 dci as ive got a 2015 nissan pulasr and im struggling to find a kit unless they all come with the necessary bolts but just dont have them in the description of the product
Yeah it will be , just the standard dci pin kit
Hello, what the brand of digital wrench torque do you got?
Mine is a snap on one mate
Great video one of the best online 👌
Glad you think so! 👍
extremely helpful , thanks so much
You're welcome!
1st of all i timed the engine & it was correct apart from fuel pump was out of sync. engine would turn over.
Now i started again but this time sorted the fuel pump.
came time to test it & valves & pistons made contact.
so started again, this time i took glow plug out of piston 1 & made sure it was at tdc.
put cam locking pin in. put crank locking pin in & put belt on.
again tested it & it still made contact.
you guessed it i started again, turned crank around till i had tdc again. inserted pins. belt on, still contact.
and again turned crank to tdc again,timed up & still contact.
Am i missing something stupidly obvious?
Really hard to say without seeing it mate! when you say its making contact is it locking solid?
Sorry, dumb question but I assume that the fuel pump is time critical rather than producing a constant pressure?
Yeah it needs to be timed up mate
@@diydaly Thank you, I thought so. Keep the great videos comming.
@@stephenrose8188 👍👍
With my Xantia, the only way I could get the cranks pully bolt loose is with the help of the starter. I wonder if that's possible with these cars that have a start/stop system....
yeah there not usually too bad tbf
@@diydaly ok. I managed with a breaker bar and used the old serpentine belt to block the pulley. When tightening the 95 degrees i snapped off one of the 1/2 inch extensions but I made it till 90 degrees before that happened so I guess that's good enough.
What make is the buzz gun?
1/2” is snap on and 3/8 is Milwaukee
why loosen the 3 bolts on the camshaft ???
It can be done without but the correct procedure is to slacken them.. that way it pulls a nice even tension all round when tensioning the belt..
Great video and explanation!
Thank you!
How much does this job cost? And where r u located? I need this doing for my grand scenic.
Usually around the £450 area for a decent full kit inc water pump , aux belt & coolant .. I’m on the east coast near Grimsby
Hi. What would be the cost for this job ?. Inc parts labour vat ect .I have a 60 plate that could do with doing. Regards dennis.
On average I’d say expect to pay around £450 area
@@diydaly cheers bud been quoted £550. Thought it was a bit steep .I will shop around a bit thanks .
@@dennismault196 👍
Hi mate. How much km this belt had and at what number of km you need to change the timing belt for 1.5 dci? Some mechanics told me 120.000 km, others from 70.000 to 90.000 km
This had 90,000 on its ,they do vary some say 72,000 others are 90,000 .. personally I’d say every 72,000
@@diydaly for a 90.000 km belt was not looking that bad except for that small tear. I have seen much worse. Thanks for the reply.
@@sorinsrn5442 👍
Hi, This guide is great and thank you for taking the time. Ibhave a kangoo van and was going great guns until trying to remove the crank pin after fitting the new belt, l can't unscrew it, it feels like it has somehow become bent. I had trouble getting the crank pulley off but had someone in the car in 4th gear, foot on the brake. So l have kind of git towards the end but cannot remove that pin. I have tried turning it with grips etc but l can feel it rotate and hit the crank, both ways. Any help is greatly appreciated, it is currently sat on the drive 😢😂
Thanks! Arr I’ve seen that done before! It can be tricky to get out .. you gona have to get some Mole grips of sumet on it to get a decent purchase .. if it won’t budge you may need to remove the sump to access it better and knock it straight
@diydaly thank you, will take tge sump off, l am worried the timing may be out if l bent the pin? The cam pin was in. When l get the pin removed, if l turn it by hand will l know? Thanks again
@@littlemilllosers yeah it may be slightly out , it will still turn if it’s 1-2 teeth out .. try get the pin out then double check it .. you might find it’s ok .. your not meant to leave the pin in when put any pressure against it that’s all .. I’m sure your get it out ok 👍
Did you unscrew the crankshaft pulley while the crank pin was inside? You are not supposed to do that.
@senecus2358 yes l did, my fault all sorted now though
Engine mount bolts = 21NM...? Are you sure it isnt 62 NM?? 21 seems to low for me..
I'm guessing this is similar to the 2014 Grand Scenic 1.5dci K9K engine?
Yeah be the same mate
@@diydaly excellent. Going to give it a go tomorrow night 👍🙏
@@shankillpilgrim 👍👍 good luck
We did it, granted it took all week (few hours after work every night).
One problem we came across though, our belt is 119 not 123, the fuel pump sprocket is way smaller than yours. Once I realised that, it was plane sailing. Granted, I had to buy another kit short notice with the right belt size (the 123 belt kit was an eBay special). Lessons learned check it twice 😅
All the best with future videos though. They are insightful, helpful and clear.
@@shankillpilgrim arr at least you got it sorted mate 👍👍
Brilliant! 👍
Thank you! Cheers!
Great video 😊
Thanks David 👍👌
Good Job, what is the number of this engine K9K .... ?
I can't remember tbh mate, it was quite a while a go I did this one
@@diydaly or maybe you will have knowledge about the car Renault Megane 2 1.5dci 2005 K9K732 105KM engine on Siemens (camshaft sensor on the valve cover not on the pump) because I am spreading my hands as well as the mechanics, spent a lot of money and he still does not work well for a long time in the computer it shows the error DF097 Def.1 That is the error of the camshaft sensor which is at the top on the cover. Unfortunately, it has been replaced up to 4 times with a new one and the error is still there. The car starts very poorly because of this, spins 10 times before it starts, probably almost everything has already been checked, this error is also when the timing is incorrectly set, but the timing is set several times, checked and nothing, and even a new computer replaced and the installation checked to the computer, maybe you have an idea what's wrong? Thanks in advance
@@abcabc-xo8qp yeah I’d definelty like to know that the timing is 100% correct , some of them engines have a keyless crank pulley so it will need checking with the pin in the crank .. also haas the wiring to the sensor been checked correctly
Be careful of that fuel pump pulley - i've had 2 crack on me. Use a puller
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Isn't it better to just unscrew the pump completely?
Gawd knows why he removed it. There's literally no point.
If you can't get the belt on then take the cam pulley off, slip the belt and then put it back on.
Hi. How did you hold the crankshaft so you could tighten the crank pulley bolt or did you just do it up with the nut gun?
Hi I did it with a buzz gun , if I was doing it without a buzz gun id put it in 4th gear and get someone to press the brake down hard or lock the flywheel using a screwdriver in-between the teeth
@@diydaly How many nm does the screw of the crankshaft get
@@torbengra389 depends on the size of the bolt but if you read the description for my video it’s all listed in the there 👍👍
Thanks
Thankyou very much! 😁
Great job , thans !
Glad you liked it!
great Vid
👍
good all british diy
👍
@@diydaly is it possible to mount the belt without unscrewing the 3 camshaft bolts? Mine has the camshaft fixed. Normaly the adjustment was made trough the cranckshaft sprocket. And I intend to replace the crankshaft sproket with a sprocket with one with blocker just like yours. I noticed even though the bolt was tighten during time it did slipped a few mm. Not to mention I found grease on the cranckshaft end.
Super vidéo ✨✨✨✨👍🏼
Thanks
Excellent video proper job well done. Just for fun, pardon the pun, count how many times he says "JUST" during the whole video.......
Now that I've mentioned it you won't be able to stop hearing the word.
Im just playing no offence intended at all, in my videos I say "erm" "erm" like a total idiot before I say something. 🤣🤣😂😂
Thanks for the comment .. lol no offence taken! I’m not the most camera savvy person 🤣🤣
@@diydaly this is a 2007 dci 1.5l would the renault clio III, 2011 dci 1.5l be the same or did they change by then?
Ive got a mate who wants the cambelt doing on his and the ac condenser is leaking, got any advice for replacing the condenser? Front end off job or not as bad as that? Im struggling just to find the correct one, they say some are condensor and radiator combined. Not looking forward to it.....
@@LAW-fv6ys yeah it’ll be the same 👍 it’s a bumper off job , tbh there pretty easy to get off though 👌
It shows how much patience he has.... Every time he said "just" i thought to myself: "No effort is too much for this bloke: - He is doing a proper job" Great video, thank you!!!!
@@jurgensstrydom2065 Thanks! 👍👍😃nice to hear it
Hi, 2016 year new Megane 4 also has a 1.5 dci K9K engine. Can We apply the same procedure for it? Is there anything different?
yeah should be pretty much the same procedure mate 👍
@@diydaly
How many miles was on that belt you changed on the megane
@@wewouldneversellourclubfor3166 127,000 mate
@@diydaly
And was that the original belt from new on that car as my mark 2 Dacia Logan MCV diesel has 58k miles and would it be safe to go to around 70 k miles before changing the belt and water pump and is a 2014 model 1.5 DCI engine.
@@wewouldneversellourclubfor3166 I’m not 100% sure but I think it was as it was well ready for replacement! I’ll have to check the exact interval but i think you should be ok at that
Super gut
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Good man ❤
Thanks 👍👍
Wat millage was on this car he lucky man
lol he was, 130,000 I think
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18 teeth of the belt between marks.
👍👍
Just saves me 1/2 a Monty pay
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