I appreciate your explanations and your “babbling “. Trying so hard to understand all of this. I generally attribute any ball motion/lack of motion to my own ineptitude rather than intrinsic ball characteristics but it is nice to have a little more insight to what I should be striving to do
Great video! You’re great at explaining concepts that often get shrouded in “bowling jargon” that can be confusing for beginners. I’m new to this, but I generally try to ball down as much as the situation will allow me, I figure saving more energy will be generally better as long as my release and line adjustments are good. Working so far!
I really enjoy these ballspanation videos! The way I think about the lanes is like pushing a lazy guy in a wheelchair. With the initial push and oil on the lanes representing the momentum as which it travels. Depending on how much he wants to help down lane represents revs and cover stock and core represents how much he weighs and the shape that he’s in. lol
Thanks for this ballsplanation segment Mikey. I have tried balling "up" when I see the ball jump off line in the last 10 feet before it hits the pins. I start with my middle piece so there is somewhere to go as needed.
Great ballsplanation! Here is a quick summary. Don't look at lateral motion down lane as a measure of ball strength. More important is how much energy the ball is using in the front part of the lane. If the ball is going too straight down lane, the ball is probably hooking too early. If there is too much lateral motion down lane, the ball is probably not hooking early enough. That's what it means to read the lane front to back.
Great vid!! The "typical" bowler looks at hook as left-to-right so the "stronger more hooking" ball is the misconception I believe when they are looking for a new ball. The weaker ball gives the eyes the "bigger hook" because it's storing more energy. Great explanation and examples on why we need to start understanding ball roll front-to-back instead of left-to-right!! Keep up the great work
Awesome video. I've tried to explain this concept to my dad numerous times during league and he just refuses to listen to me. I'm going to show him this and hope he will listen to a more qualified individual.
Love learning the specifics of ball reaction and lane play, thanx! Maybe a vid like this talking bout what kind of moves you would make through transtion. Like for example when your Phaze 2 "stops hooking" after game 1, do you ball down to like a Blackout/Hustle in roughly the same spot and or would you sometimes ball up, maybe IonMax/H Reality, and make like a 3-2 or 5-3 feet-target move left?
Extremely well explained. The front to back thing can be so confusing. "strong", "weak", "early", "clean", these mean nothing to us. Thank you for breaking it down so well.
When I talk about bowling to my coworkers they are amazed like i'm some genius talking about oil and types of cover-stocks. Ive only taken bowling serious for a couple years and own 3 bowling balls. The amount of experience and knowledge you can give us is invaluable. I mean how many different balls have you thrown? Hundreds? Thousands? I own 3, with 2 years bowling and average 175. Awesome educational video Michael.
You are such a natural educator. I really love these ballsplanation videos. Super helpful and understandable for someone like me. Clear, direct, articulate, I can't wait for the next one.
@@brigham2250 a little bit, but if you’re throwing a ball that doesn’t have a coverstock that is reacting properly to the lane/condition, you’re dead in the water no matter what you do to it
2:48 seconds in and I’m thinking something people benefit from is using different terms for things they see. Instead of saying hooking for everything there’s hooking and friction response. I think Luke Rosendahl explains it that way and it makes sense. Hook front to back, response side to side.
Thanks for the info Mikey, I started out with my Attention Star last night. 244 first game. I missed the signs to get out of it. 193 second game. Balled down to the Xponent pearl last game and had a much better reaction.
@@LILR1CH I would say that's a good One Two combo, particularly for leagues. The Attention Star is definitely a lot stronger than the Ruby, but still pearl enough to frequently do well on house shots.
@@LILR1CH I have my attention Star drilled 50 x 5 x 40. Worked well for me on fresh. Haven't used it much to be honest. I'm bowling in a house I haven't bowled in for a few years. They changed the shot since I bowled there last. Its a tougher shot now. Still trying to find the right combinations.
@chrismacalpine6705 I often times like to use a symmetrical solid first then go into a attention star and then a low end piece. Most times I can keep moving left with the star and use it the whole day.
Put some pressure on SPI to release a real performance matrix. It’s really tough as a consumer to go off of coverstocks and cores when they really don’t compare. I.e. a pearl that hooks more than a solid.
Hi mikey! I recently started bowling a league on house after only bowling on sport. I have noticed that most of my equipment is too strong right to left and I cant seem to calm it down on house. Should I look for a ball with more cover to get it earlier so it dosen't jump?
I have an IQ Tour Solid, Global Xponent, and the Clone. I usually start with the Xponent and when the lane dries out I go to my IQ. I can't really find a spot to throw my Clone. I tried to change the surface a few times. Someone said I need to add a different ball instead of my Clone, switch it to another ball. Any suggestions on this would help. Thanks.
Thumbs up. Definitely not babbling. Tons of useful information that can otherwise get pretty confusing. If you would have rushed through and skipped the steps instead of your trial and error, it would have been just as incomprehensible as most vids that try to explain this. You actually made it clearer. Thanks!
Great video… I think this mirrors a lot of good content that talks about interpreting what is happening front to back. I think the problem is learning how to tell the difference between throwing a ball that’s too weak vs throwing a ball that’s too strong… and how to tell the difference between the skid hook and roll phases visually… when did my ball start hooking vs skidding, how do I know my ball missed right because it skidded too far vs hooked too early?
Since there are usually 9 other bowlers, you can't always control it cliffing. But generally you want to move in and ball up with surface. This will help blend out the cliffed part of the pattern. A good example is I throw a polished VEBO 25 to 10, and when the pattern starts to cliff, I go to a surfaced DNA which blends out the cliff and also keeps a nice rounded shape.
@@timcelesti5321 It is when the middle is oily and the outside is really dry, and it isn't a transition between them. So where the oil stops and the dry begins is like a cliff. This causes a lot of over/under, meaning the ball either way over hooks or doesn't hook at all, especially when you throw cleaner balls. This is why throwing a surfaced bigger ball and moving left can help, because you want to pick the oil up and transition it towards the cliff to slowly get rid of it, thus bringing you back to easier conditions as you may have experienced in game one, with a line that has a smoother transition of oil to dry.
I’ve been noticing that let’s say I’m doing my normal session but suddenly pause the session and talk for like 5-6 minutes with someone, then throw the ball again, the ball hooks better…is there an explanation for that ??
Why does the amount of energy a ball uses in the front part of the lane change over time? And if a stronger ball uses more energy in the front part of the lane and runs out of energy by the end and then has less lateral motion, how is it a stronger ball?
@@ryanfiocca the amount of energy used in the front changes as the oil transitions. Balls pick up oil from the front, therefore there’s less oil in the front as shots are thrown. If you think about the lane front to back instead of laterally, a stronger ball will hook early (use energy earlier). So if you’re bowling on a higher volume of oil, in theory you’ll want the stronger ball. If you think about balls this way, adjustments make a lot more sense
Maybe you guys can help me out, I throw 17 to 18 mph and have 400 to 450 revs. My 6 ball bag right now is Harsh reality, idol, ion pro, attention star, iq, and summit peak. I’m having the same problem game 1 I’m good game 2 my balls stop hooking even if I go to a weaker ball it still doesn’t hook a lot and I leave a lot of flat 10s or buckets. what ball would you recommend me getting to maybe feel a gap in my bag
I'm in the same boat to start the year, 250 game 1, 205 game 2, 195 game 3. There could be a lot of factors without knowing. Do you make adjustments before ball changing? moving feet? downline target? hand? speed? Other factors can be different layouts, unless they are all the same. Another could be the alley using a different oil from the previous year, or even simply the other bowlers on the pair will affect the conditions. If you are bowling with a lot of guys who bowl straight without a hook, they can mess up the track play quickly, especially if they are throwing plastic at spares a lot. Weather also can play a factor. like us right now starting the season, the first 3 weeks have all been in the 90's and gets hot in the alley. In the winter and cooler weather, I've noticed the pattern doesn't break down as fast. I always go with the method though of Solid's first, then hybrid, then pearl. I throw a 2000 grit Pro-Motion/Reality (depending on variables), then ball down to the polished Eternity, if that's still too strong, I have a 3,000 grit HB Revival.
@@steve4880 yes sir I’ve moved my feed moved my target ball speed and everything if I move right with any of my balks they seem to hook way to early and too much overall and then when I move a little left they don’t have enough energy down lane, it happen to me last night and nobody was throwing urethane or plastic, my average to finish last year was 224 and this year I think it’s only 206 so far because I can never finish the set good lol
@@thomasburns8375 I assume you are starting with the Harsh Reality? If so, going down to a weaker ball like the Idol or IQ may not require a move adjustment. I'd say if you get a strike in the 10th, change balls and throw in the same spot to see what type of reaction it shows as they should both go longer than the Harsh Reality so they can store more energy later. After that, I'd say go small adjustments before going down to the shiny balls. Sometimes too big of an adjustment can put you in no mans land. But like I said, there are some variables out there that change. Weather, oil, lane wear, etc...
Generally for a house shot if you're gonna move in you want to ball up with surface so you can blend out the pattern, you throwing it 17-18 with that many revs should make it very doable. This will make game 3 way easier already, but also make game 2 easier. Moving right with a ball down with that many revs is going to require a lot of consistency on something as dry as a house shot. The moving in ball up will allow you to essentially create your own line again (depending where others are playing). As far as flat 10s and buckets, both can be solved by a slight speed adjustment, throwing a little slower. Sometimes people get adjustments backwards, because they can be counter intuitive. Moving to a polished pearl is fine if you can get it to the friction, but based on you saying that when you move right it over hooks, I think a move left with more surface will make it a lot more controllable. You want to carry the oil from the middle out to the right where the pattern tends to cliff, and doing this will blend the pattern back to how it is in game 1, and you can essentially just bowl the same line again.
We do adjust. This is just explaining how you can choose a ball to maximize your ball reaction, combining that with proper adjustments will bring your scores up significantly
@@tvbowlingsupply I was really talking about what I've seen over the past 1/2 year... It seems like as soon as "this ball" isn't in the pocket--I'm switching to something else... Not pointed at you in particular...
@@airiqtibbits2387 I meant “we” as bowlers in general, didn’t take that personal. Well some bowlers do. But having the right ball is so paramount nowadays, a bowler who is matched up is going to beat the other person 98% of the time no matter how good they are
Thanks so much for the explanation. You really sonund like a pro's pro.🎉🎉🎉 Sorry for this, but, reslity is you aren't a Champion PBA bowler with an average of 207. I need to learn from the best to be the best😂😂😂😂😂
Your weakest ball makes me think that those balls "hate" the friction. The second they touch it they take a hard left. All the energy is saved for the backend and it can be too much. You pros always want smooth control balls, not sharp, jumpy, ultra-sensitive balls.
We've got someone in the league that buys new all the time and only averages like 170. I'm planning on buying the Ion Max because it will fit my game but I don't need it this moment so I'll pick it up if it goes on sale sometime next year.
Wow that seems so crazy to me. What would that person average if he walked in each week with a one ball tote with just a ten year old Hyroad? Like 168 probably?
For a 170 average player, yes that is true. That’s why it seems silly to drill tons of new balls for league just to average 170. But if you’re going to average 230 you basically need at least 7 strikes per game. Spares alone can’t get you there. You need strings of strikes and you need your misses to leave easy spares.
Amateurs can't make consistent speed and release adjustments. That's why they are amateurs. If the PBA Tour ever goes to a one ball rule, which they won't because of money, but which they should because you're not a pro if the only adjustment you ever make is changing balls, a whole lot of people will find out they're not as good as they think they are.
That is the dumbest thing I have ever heard. Part of being a good bowler is understanding what type of ball to use during what situation, AND how to adjust with the ball, it's a double adjustment, which is actually even more difficult than just throwing one ball a billion different ways until it works. If you think you're better at bowling than others because you never change balls, you're just delusional xD People who don't know when to change balls is a perfect example of having a huge hole in your understanding of bowling.
Benchmark layout. Medium flare (5), average end over end (4) and adding a little extra internal differential (4). Basically same as.mine. very benchmark
Awesome video! You are probably one of the best at explaining these things that a lot of us don't see. Your experience and wisdom is much appreciated!
Best explanation for us newbies!
I appreciate your explanations and your “babbling “. Trying so hard to understand all of this. I generally attribute any ball motion/lack of motion to my own ineptitude rather than intrinsic ball characteristics but it is nice to have a little more insight to what I should be striving to do
Great video! You’re great at explaining concepts that often get shrouded in “bowling jargon” that can be confusing for beginners. I’m new to this, but I generally try to ball down as much as the situation will allow me, I figure saving more energy will be generally better as long as my release and line adjustments are good. Working so far!
Oh my gosh - dude!! This was the best explanation for short patterns, like it clicked in my head! (finally 😂) Thanks man!
Very informative video, and your explanation was easy to understand the bowling ball deference of the balls , thanks again.
This is exactly what I've been trying to understand recently so thanks so much!
Thanks for explaining front to back, i was going to ask right before it came up in the video
Great bowlsplanation. 📝
💡 Lightbulb moment, thank you 👍🏼
I really enjoy these ballspanation videos! The way I think about the lanes is like pushing a lazy guy in a wheelchair. With the initial push and oil on the lanes representing the momentum as which it travels. Depending on how much he wants to help down lane represents revs and cover stock and core represents how much he weighs and the shape that he’s in. lol
Thanks for this ballsplanation segment Mikey. I have tried balling "up" when I see the ball jump off line in the last 10 feet before it hits the pins. I start with my middle piece so there is somewhere to go as needed.
Love these Ballsplanations!
Great ballsplanation! Here is a quick summary.
Don't look at lateral motion down lane as a measure of ball strength.
More important is how much energy the ball is using in the front part of the lane.
If the ball is going too straight down lane, the ball is probably hooking too early.
If there is too much lateral motion down lane, the ball is probably not hooking early enough.
That's what it means to read the lane front to back.
What is the best resource when looking to learn about how strong different coverstocks are?
Awesome video. Very Helpful!
This video definitely needed to be as long as it is. Great video. Every second was informative and helpful. Much love.
Even though you feel like you're not throwing the ball well, the information still comes across crystal clear.
Great explanation! Bowling is so easy and not confusing at all.. 😂
Discovered this myself recently. I wish this video had been out a few months ago! :)
Thanks Mikey. Great explanations and helps understand a little more about energy and how it effects ball motion! Love the vids, keep it up!
I'm a fan of this info, thanks for sharing.
Love this video! Great explanation!
I just ordered a few of your shirts, but your bowling knowledge has taught me so much keep up the good work, much appreciated!!!
Very good! As you said, most people only look at the breakpoint forward instead of the entire lane motion.
Thanks for the excellent content.
Great video and thanks again for the great fit
Great video and great information!
Great vid!! The "typical" bowler looks at hook as left-to-right so the "stronger more hooking" ball is the misconception I believe when they are looking for a new ball. The weaker ball gives the eyes the "bigger hook" because it's storing more energy. Great explanation and examples on why we need to start understanding ball roll front-to-back instead of left-to-right!! Keep up the great work
Great Video... And i haven't even watched it all the way thru yet. Just from the beginning I knew
Awesome video. I've tried to explain this concept to my dad numerous times during league and he just refuses to listen to me. I'm going to show him this and hope he will listen to a more qualified individual.
You nailed that one
Love learning the specifics of ball reaction and lane play, thanx! Maybe a vid like this talking bout what kind of moves you would make through transtion. Like for example when your Phaze 2 "stops hooking" after game 1, do you ball down to like a Blackout/Hustle in roughly the same spot and or would you sometimes ball up, maybe IonMax/H Reality, and make like a 3-2 or 5-3 feet-target move left?
Another great ballsplanation! Keep it up!
Been waiting for a video like this!
Extremely well explained. The front to back thing can be so confusing. "strong", "weak", "early", "clean", these mean nothing to us. Thank you for breaking it down so well.
Awesome video
Excellent vid
That is NOT the way I thought about the change, Thank you for the correction. Not wordy, great video.
When I talk about bowling to my coworkers they are amazed like i'm some genius talking about oil and types of cover-stocks. Ive only taken bowling serious for a couple years and own 3 bowling balls. The amount of experience and knowledge you can give us is invaluable. I mean how many different balls have you thrown? Hundreds? Thousands? I own 3, with 2 years bowling and average 175. Awesome educational video Michael.
You are such a natural educator. I really love these ballsplanation videos. Super helpful and understandable for someone like me. Clear, direct, articulate, I can't wait for the next one.
Great video
Thanks Mikey. Can you please tell us the difference between a ball with 2.5 rg vs. a 2.4rg. Thanks
I think that ball trajectory and the proper hand position and speed is everything, or just about everything.
@@brigham2250 ball reaction >>>>>>
@@tvbowlingsupply -- Can't ball reaction be manipulated by ball trajectory, hand position and ball speed?
@@brigham2250 a little bit, but if you’re throwing a ball that doesn’t have a coverstock that is reacting properly to the lane/condition, you’re dead in the water no matter what you do to it
Yada yada yada, great video.
Thanks for todays Tang Tips
Great video! What lens are you using for you video ?
So what about sticking with the first ball but moving right if it’s not hooking and or moving left if it’s jumping over?
2:48 seconds in and I’m thinking something people benefit from is using different terms for things they see. Instead of saying hooking for everything there’s hooking and friction response. I think Luke Rosendahl explains it that way and it makes sense. Hook front to back, response side to side.
Thanks for the info Mikey, I started out with my Attention Star last night. 244 first game. I missed the signs to get out of it. 193 second game. Balled down to the Xponent pearl last game and had a much better reaction.
Is your attention star drilled strong and for house shot? Im thinking of getting an a att star and transition into my iq ruby
@@LILR1CH I would say that's a good One Two combo, particularly for leagues. The Attention Star is definitely a lot stronger than the Ruby, but still pearl enough to frequently do well on house shots.
Lol same, 244, 190, 236 last night
@@LILR1CH I have my attention Star drilled 50 x 5 x 40. Worked well for me on fresh. Haven't used it much to be honest. I'm bowling in a house I haven't bowled in for a few years. They changed the shot since I bowled there last. Its a tougher shot now. Still trying to find the right combinations.
@chrismacalpine6705 I often times like to use a symmetrical solid first then go into a attention star and then a low end piece. Most times I can keep moving left with the star and use it the whole day.
Put some pressure on SPI to release a real performance matrix. It’s really tough as a consumer to go off of coverstocks and cores when they really don’t compare. I.e. a pearl that hooks more than a solid.
Do you ever put polish on some of your stronger balls like the ion max? Wouldn't that get it farther down lane with the energy needed for good carry?
Sure!
I have opposite problem, decent game 1, then lane goes away and anything I throw hooks earlier, can't even throw the black widow 3.0 😂
Nice video!
Hi mikey! I recently started bowling a league on house after only bowling on sport. I have noticed that most of my equipment is too strong right to left and I cant seem to calm it down on house. Should I look for a ball with more cover to get it earlier so it dosen't jump?
Sure! Or try some pin down drillings
I have an IQ Tour Solid, Global Xponent, and the Clone. I usually start with the Xponent and when the lane dries out I go to my IQ. I can't really find a spot to throw my Clone. I tried to change the surface a few times. Someone said I need to add a different ball instead of my Clone, switch it to another ball. Any suggestions on this would help. Thanks.
Thumbs up. Definitely not babbling. Tons of useful information that can otherwise get pretty confusing. If you would have rushed through and skipped the steps instead of your trial and error, it would have been just as incomprehensible as most vids that try to explain this. You actually made it clearer. Thanks!
Great video… I think this mirrors a lot of good content that talks about interpreting what is happening front to back. I think the problem is learning how to tell the difference between throwing a ball that’s too weak vs throwing a ball that’s too strong… and how to tell the difference between the skid hook and roll phases visually… when did my ball start hooking vs skidding, how do I know my ball missed right because it skidded too far vs hooked too early?
What about the cliffing of the patterns?
Since there are usually 9 other bowlers, you can't always control it cliffing. But generally you want to move in and ball up with surface. This will help blend out the cliffed part of the pattern. A good example is I throw a polished VEBO 25 to 10, and when the pattern starts to cliff, I go to a surfaced DNA which blends out the cliff and also keeps a nice rounded shape.
@@educatedduck6618what is cliffing ?
@@timcelesti5321 It is when the middle is oily and the outside is really dry, and it isn't a transition between them. So where the oil stops and the dry begins is like a cliff. This causes a lot of over/under, meaning the ball either way over hooks or doesn't hook at all, especially when you throw cleaner balls. This is why throwing a surfaced bigger ball and moving left can help, because you want to pick the oil up and transition it towards the cliff to slowly get rid of it, thus bringing you back to easier conditions as you may have experienced in game one, with a line that has a smoother transition of oil to dry.
Always know how to use balls... 😉😅
I’ve been noticing that let’s say I’m doing my normal session but suddenly pause the session and talk for like 5-6 minutes with someone, then throw the ball again, the ball hooks better…is there an explanation for that ??
Why does the amount of energy a ball uses in the front part of the lane change over time? And if a stronger ball uses more energy in the front part of the lane and runs out of energy by the end and then has less lateral motion, how is it a stronger ball?
@@ryanfiocca the amount of energy used in the front changes as the oil transitions. Balls pick up oil from the front, therefore there’s less oil in the front as shots are thrown. If you think about the lane front to back instead of laterally, a stronger ball will hook early (use energy earlier). So if you’re bowling on a higher volume of oil, in theory you’ll want the stronger ball. If you think about balls this way, adjustments make a lot more sense
@@tvbowlingsupply that makes a lot more sense, thanks!
Can you please show us 5 strikes in a row?
Maybe you guys can help me out, I throw 17 to 18 mph and have 400 to 450 revs. My 6 ball bag right now is Harsh reality, idol, ion pro, attention star, iq, and summit peak. I’m having the same problem game 1 I’m good game 2 my balls stop hooking even if I go to a weaker ball it still doesn’t hook a lot and I leave a lot of flat 10s or buckets. what ball would you recommend me getting to maybe feel a gap in my bag
I'm in the same boat to start the year, 250 game 1, 205 game 2, 195 game 3. There could be a lot of factors without knowing. Do you make adjustments before ball changing? moving feet? downline target? hand? speed? Other factors can be different layouts, unless they are all the same. Another could be the alley using a different oil from the previous year, or even simply the other bowlers on the pair will affect the conditions. If you are bowling with a lot of guys who bowl straight without a hook, they can mess up the track play quickly, especially if they are throwing plastic at spares a lot. Weather also can play a factor. like us right now starting the season, the first 3 weeks have all been in the 90's and gets hot in the alley. In the winter and cooler weather, I've noticed the pattern doesn't break down as fast. I always go with the method though of Solid's first, then hybrid, then pearl. I throw a 2000 grit Pro-Motion/Reality (depending on variables), then ball down to the polished Eternity, if that's still too strong, I have a 3,000 grit HB Revival.
@@steve4880 yes sir I’ve moved my feed moved my target ball speed and everything if I move right with any of my balks they seem to hook way to early and too much overall and then when I move a little left they don’t have enough energy down lane, it happen to me last night and nobody was throwing urethane or plastic, my average to finish last year was 224 and this year I think it’s only 206 so far because I can never finish the set good lol
@@thomasburns8375 I assume you are starting with the Harsh Reality? If so, going down to a weaker ball like the Idol or IQ may not require a move adjustment. I'd say if you get a strike in the 10th, change balls and throw in the same spot to see what type of reaction it shows as they should both go longer than the Harsh Reality so they can store more energy later. After that, I'd say go small adjustments before going down to the shiny balls. Sometimes too big of an adjustment can put you in no mans land. But like I said, there are some variables out there that change. Weather, oil, lane wear, etc...
My suggestion would be to slow down your speed just a bit. You are probably getting some oil carry down.
Generally for a house shot if you're gonna move in you want to ball up with surface so you can blend out the pattern, you throwing it 17-18 with that many revs should make it very doable. This will make game 3 way easier already, but also make game 2 easier. Moving right with a ball down with that many revs is going to require a lot of consistency on something as dry as a house shot. The moving in ball up will allow you to essentially create your own line again (depending where others are playing). As far as flat 10s and buckets, both can be solved by a slight speed adjustment, throwing a little slower. Sometimes people get adjustments backwards, because they can be counter intuitive. Moving to a polished pearl is fine if you can get it to the friction, but based on you saying that when you move right it over hooks, I think a move left with more surface will make it a lot more controllable. You want to carry the oil from the middle out to the right where the pattern tends to cliff, and doing this will blend the pattern back to how it is in game 1, and you can essentially just bowl the same line again.
Doesn't anyone adjust anymore? Or is it just---bring 10 balls and switch balls instead of a little move here or there?
We do adjust. This is just explaining how you can choose a ball to maximize your ball reaction, combining that with proper adjustments will bring your scores up significantly
@@tvbowlingsupply I was really talking about what I've seen over the past 1/2 year... It seems like as soon as "this ball" isn't in the pocket--I'm switching to something else... Not pointed at you in particular...
@@airiqtibbits2387 I meant “we” as bowlers in general, didn’t take that personal. Well some bowlers do. But having the right ball is so paramount nowadays, a bowler who is matched up is going to beat the other person 98% of the time no matter how good they are
Thanks so much for the explanation. You really sonund like a pro's pro.🎉🎉🎉 Sorry for this, but, reslity is you aren't a Champion PBA bowler with an average of 207. I need to learn from the best to be the best😂😂😂😂😂
Why storm never advertise balls as “weaker balls” tho, they only put “strong” in every ball review😂
Your weakest ball makes me think that those balls "hate" the friction. The second they touch it they take a hard left. All the energy is saved for the backend and it can be too much. You pros always want smooth control balls, not sharp, jumpy, ultra-sensitive balls.
If you aren't bowling enough strikes how can you win😢
Strong balls vs weak balls.
Do people exist who own both of these brand new high end balls that just came out and also only bowl house leagues and don’t know this?
Yes I know plenty of people like that that I bowl against on league.
We've got someone in the league that buys new all the time and only averages like 170. I'm planning on buying the Ion Max because it will fit my game but I don't need it this moment so I'll pick it up if it goes on sale sometime next year.
Wow that seems so crazy to me. What would that person average if he walked in each week with a one ball tote with just a ten year old Hyroad? Like 168 probably?
@enigmazero8624 Honestly, averages are mostly dependent on the amount of spares you make rather than things like strike amount.
For a 170 average player, yes that is true. That’s why it seems silly to drill tons of new balls for league just to average 170.
But if you’re going to average 230 you basically need at least 7 strikes per game. Spares alone can’t get you there. You need strings of strikes and you need your misses to leave easy spares.
Balls plantation?
Im still confused buddy
Got it so just throw urethane
Amateurs can't make consistent speed and release adjustments. That's why they are amateurs. If the PBA Tour ever goes to a one ball rule, which they won't because of money, but which they should because you're not a pro if the only adjustment you ever make is changing balls, a whole lot of people will find out they're not as good as they think they are.
@@lockedonlaw pros can do a lot more than just changing balls. But it’s impossible to win on the tour if you aren’t throwing the right ball
That is the dumbest thing I have ever heard. Part of being a good bowler is understanding what type of ball to use during what situation, AND how to adjust with the ball, it's a double adjustment, which is actually even more difficult than just throwing one ball a billion different ways until it works. If you think you're better at bowling than others because you never change balls, you're just delusional xD People who don't know when to change balls is a perfect example of having a huge hole in your understanding of bowling.
@@educatedduck6618 I think you missed my point entirely.
@@tvbowlingsupply Agreed. But people think their local sport shot is the same shot touring pros are seeing. It isn't.
All my balls are stored with the same layout, 5x4x4 2ls. Is this a bad thing?
Benchmark layout. Medium flare (5), average end over end (4) and adding a little extra internal differential (4). Basically same as.mine. very benchmark
Today too much emphasis on the equipment and not enough on the technique.
@@BillSmith-rx9rm can’t beat bad ball reaction