Excellent project. I applaud your effort and the end result. If you find you have rigidity issues, you may wish to consider a larger diameter main spindle shaft and possibly tapered bearings to eliminate end play. Also, maybe I missed it, take the chuck off that backing plate and face the plate so you know its true to the shaft, then re-assemble the chuck to it.. Welding has a way of making things move a bit. Thumbs up from me.
just here to upvote facing the backplate, no reason why you shouldn't eliminate as much cause of error as you can, this will help you hold a better tolerance and make your parts run a bit more true. Facing the back plate and getting some tapered roller bearings the chuck would go a long way, this DIY late should make some great parts after some upgrades.
Парень молодец но не рентабельно ,столько затрат а в итоге качество обработки кустарное ,с такой точностью ,даже лучше можно обработать деталь болгаркой и напильником доработать .Если знаешь способ.Не нужно заморачиваться с такой сложной конструкцией .
Good job, buddy! It seems to me that some changes will be necessary in the future, but the machine for now working well :) I was planning on making a similar machine for several months, but you were faster than me: D
Thanks bro. Your always making projects faster than me i always plan to build similar projects of yours but you were always posting it first. You are in the level of make it extreme bro im so proud of you :)
I am enjoying this!! Says someone with 6 lathes and 2 mills. BUT my first lathe was a school project which led to a Degree in 3 D Design. A life teaching 3 D Design... And now making model Steam Locomotives. Yes I still use the home made Lathe with slipping belt clutch. Lots of love David and Lily.
But why did you not have the heart to tell him what he did wrong? Did you maybe figure that he learned what he did wrong in the process? It's great that he accomplished this but I don't know for sure that he does know the important differences between this and one that wouldn't require hammering a bearing on as we saw. Looks like that bearing didn't turn so well either after he did that. What would you say ...+/- .002" repeatability & accuracy? I haven't made my own but I have rebuilt a little Smithy (Midas) 1220-xl except for the gearbox. Fortunately, the gearbox was sealed and hadn't been contaminated with sand rust like everything else. I'm just glad I went to school, watched 1000+ hours of videos and read up extensively, on the subjects I needed to know to make the thing chooch. The one thing I didn't realize though, was that the main reason my teachers were telling me not to get a mill/lathe combo was because they are horribly inefficient when you need to go from milling to turning or vice versa. The two just interfere with each other to much so If I gotta turn anything larger than 2.5" dia. the vice either has to come off or I have to position the vice far to one side so I have to take the work out of the vice & turn it around to mill the other side, just as one example. Maybe he could make some modification to get some preloading. ...?
In case you don't know it, for the chuck you can get rid of those three expensive bearings, and use a tube with two bearings on each side, back to back, of the type used in car/trucks wheel hubs. These are tapered roller bearings, and are basically to conical matching parts (each). These will be able to handle more axial load than your lathe can put out, and even if from the scrap yard and used, will get you more precision and repeatability than those three altogether.
Good idea, and when you say "tube" did you have in mind something like 10 to 15 Centimeters (4 to 6 inch) diameter steel tube or pipe to house the bearings?
This, though a homemade, but still a lathe, not an anvil. When you mark holes or wear a bearing with a hammer using a bed of a lathe, my heart starts to ache.
Nice work. I was a little concerned about the precision of the measurements lining up the guide rods and such, but looks like it came out okay. One thing - get in the habit of *never* leaving the chuck key in the chuck unless your hand is on it, or one day, you *will* eat it when you forget and turn on the motor.
Very clever use of already fabricated parts! The ways and carriage are super hard to make, but your method simplifies the whole process, and could certainly be scaled up!
For a light duty* DIY home workshop lathe, using linear rails is a reasonably workable idea. The 20mm ones he's got are pretty strong, and have a useful amount of mass to them to help prevent tool chatter. Where they fall down though is there's hardly any designs of bearing blocks that have a way to adjust for wear on them. Once there's play in them you can't just tighten up gib screws or resurface the ways. I suppose if you're careful about the bolt hole positioning when building it you could turn the rails around and use the less worn ends to get a bit more life out of them, But you'll probabbly still need to buy new bearing blocks. (*By "Light duty" I mean one that's not used 24/7. If well thought out and constructed I'd think a DIY lathe made using linear rails would probably handle more strain and stay accurate longer than one with traditional dove tail ways, It's just that when it DOES show signs of wear there's not a lot you can do to sort it out other than replacing some pretty expensive hardware.)
@@needdamemes2757 There is also issue of chips and metal dust getting into bearing blocks, ruining them real fast if not protected. There should some accessory parts to those blocks witch try prevent this from happening, but its not perfect solution and as mentioned just little wear and those are next to useless, ending up just wrecking havoc to inserts and surface finish. Its same effect that happened with my DIY mill, from cheap drillpress, cheap cross feed table and rather expensive tooling that got ruined every time it bumped. Tried it in "vertical lathe" setup but similar thing happened. Then again his pillow bearing blocks wont be that accurate anyways, so this is well suited for occasional bushing adapter or such work, but any proper machining tolerances you can forget, though this is lots sturdier than cheap chinese lathes on the market, so with little design chances like cup bearing in the axle to center it properly, replacing threaded rod with machine screw with suitable slack removal like two nuts with strong spring between and building some protection for the ways, sure this will be much cheaper and does what it was designed to do.
1) the chuck shaft should be 1st aligned with the lathe ways by putting a long straight shaft in the 3 bearings and check the alignment with a micrometer held on the carriage (using a magnet holder for ex) and moved along the ways. Alignemnt of the chuchk shaft can be modified using the adjusment screws on the 3 bearings. 2) the chuck backplate should be then turned on the lathe so that the ridge that goes in the chuck is concentric with the chuck shaft, only then should the backplate be drilled.
@@denisko121 и если бы человек хотел, он мог бы постараться сделать нормальный станок, а в данном случаи он просто сворганил кривой корпус и прикрепил все основные детали токарного станка(как я увидел)
@@jokamwellington4806 yes, pillow blocks there being used to support the shaft - the spindle - having more than two will almost always induce runout and cause unnecessary wear without really being any more stable or rigid. If you need stable and rigid, self centering pillow blocks aren't really the thing to use, tapered roller bearings in fitted castings tend to be the most rigid & precise.
Nice to see a young man using practical skills i learnt in my first ever job and have never forgotten. despite it ending 20 years ago after 13 years in the trade.
Great work just as a point for the future, instead of using a solid roundbar for the head shaft use a 3mm or bigger walled pipe, this will allow you to turn longer projects that run through the pipe, but this would mean you will have to replace those head bearings as well for bigger units and resleaving the main pully. Good luck and I like this build.
The problem is finding such a tube. Show a URL where it can be purchased please along with the correct bearing to also fit. Otherwise it's not helpful at all. It's just criticism not helping
Great job overall, but i have always understood that you never use 3 bearings on a relatively short stiff shaft because they 'fight against' each other and produce vibration and wear out! You should just use two bearings on the lathe spindle. The front one , supporting the chuck, should be the biggest and most robust, eg a roller bearing. The rear one can be a big deep groove ball bearing, to withstand end thrust. Likewise, the linear ball bearings on the saddle and cross-slide should only be in pairs and not threes when spaced close, because it will cause rocking.
You should have built the main shaft and bearing supports from something solid like a couple of matching vehicle driveshaft assemblies which have mighty bearing holders. Upgrade to at least a 3hp motor. Set up coolant feed using an old oil pump with filter. Set up an emergency stop switch and electromagnetic brake coupling. Let her rip!
I love it! I would suggest using a different motor which allows speed variation. The smaller the diameter of the piece of metal your turning, the more RPM you need. Maybe one of a bigger hand drill would be a good choice, since these motors are usually electronically controlled.
The problem is PWM and you will lose torque. Better is to calculate a 'gearbox' with different wheels and put the belt on a different wheel to change the speed.
If you do, you'd be much better off using taper roller bearings, even if not precision bearings. Maybe even ones off junk car with good wheel bearings. You can see the these bearings runout when he starts a cut. These pillow blocks are not meant for axial load and there's noway to preload them like a taper bearing. I think doing that and moving the toolpost closer to spindle would give you a chance at decent surface finish, it just is not going to happen with those bearings and and that much tool stickout. Good luck
@@SekAustria What was your total cost for this project, How much for the welder the drill press and all the extra metal you used. Please give us the amount of time you spent on the project. Nice job but at what cost
@@gfdfperte4248 are you talking about a thrust bearing? That would be better than nothing, but I don't know why they have to be lubed more than any other bearing. Besides you need to lube any machine anytime you use it.
Столько материала, патрон, направляющие, подшипники, держатель для резцов, куча возни, уйма времени. В реультате имеем что-то отдаленно напоминающее токарный станок, но без нониусов, задней бабки, подачи, жесткости и точности. Сказочная глупость. Дешевле купить китайский станочек.
А че там шикарнейшего? Неверно выбраны направляющие, винты, подшипниковый узел бабки. В итоге куча труда и на выходе поделка для обдирки чего-то мягкого, типа дерева, пластика, алюминия. Крайне слабые направляющие, U образные каретки гибкие, они непригодны для силовых операций. Если бы взял рельсовые направляющие, они не сильно дороже, но куда жестче, то уже что-то бы получилось.
Extremely impressive build given the few simple tools you used. But be very careful when using that machine. Only the spinning momentum of that little chuck will surprise you if you give it as much as a chance. Even heavy factory built precision lathes can behave a bit unpredictably at times depending on the work. Please keep all of your fingers, you will need them for future projects. =)
Too much sideway torque forces exerted on the Chuck you reckon as well as the metal hardness being worked on and RPM settings....on that machine seems to be only one speed setting..
You know the moment I have a home with a shed to work in, I'm coming back to this video among others. This beast is one item too big to move between the laundry alcove and the outside workbench daily.
Your leadscrew holder is too weak and will soon have axial end play. The linear bearing with recirculating balls are very susceptible to debris and must be protected, don't you have a lot of backlack already ?
I've successfully made a PMDC treadmill motor speed controller using a SCR motor controller, and a bridge rectifier to convert the power from AC to DC. It definitely works, but could probably use some more refinement, and possibly some capacitors to help smooth out the DC voltage on the output. This might be another less expensive option if someone has a motor but no PWM speed controller available. I'd strongly recommend anyone interested in this to do their own research to make sure that they know what they're doing, what they're working on, and how it all works, as mains voltage can be lethal if one isn't careful with it. I hope this helps point someone in the right direction and gives people more options and good ideas to explore :)
Yo....wear gloves bro. Welding gives off U.V. rays, among other things. You don't want to be getting skin cancer on your fingers. Nice work though, and I'm loving the center punch you got there.
Tooling angle is slightly high, and too close to 90° to the cutting surface for me. Add some relief by using a tooling block with a radius cut on one side. Should take care of both issues. How accurate is the bed, and do you plan a tail stock? Nice build, btw!
I can't imagine it being to accurate being the cross slide was installed using a square. However with a dial indicator he may have enough play in the bolt holes to bring it in. Same thing for the the rails on the bed way he could adjust the spindle bearings to be parallel. I cant see this being as good as what you can get for $600 - $700 in a mini. It might have a bit more swing but would take a lot to get it dialed in. But I give him props for building it anyway. I might have to see if he has a video with it dialed in any better. You are very correct about the angle of the tool. I wish him the best of luck.
Wonder if like me, this guy just can't help himself when it comes to making stuff. I have a CNC machine I made that rivals almost all commercial models in overall size and accuracy. Uses precision servos and ball screws yet cost me less than $2000 overall. I'm now in the process of finishing another even much larger CNC that uses mainly 11ga formed steel as base frame for all three axis that will be universal. It's a water jet cutter, laser engraver/cutter/ router with 3hp water cooled spindle as well as plasma table with torch height control. I have less than $3000 invested and I'm about %90 completed. I'll be selling detailed plans for this machine soon. I have a 5' x 10' plasma table in the other shop that inspired me to do this one. So yes. I really like building machines of all type. Been doing proto type design and build for clients now for 30 years and it's just in my blood I suppose.
Sounds rather fishy to me. Sure you can build stuff on the cheap. But good ball screws and servos are not cheap. Not to mention the stuff required to drive them. Seems a rather bold claim to "rival almost all commercial models in overall size and accuracy" for under $2000. Having said that, if you're not using excessive amounts of hyperbole, I too would be interested in the plans.
A youtuber David Richards ( steam powered machine shop) he has some hand built tools for machining diy built some are over 100 years old and still working. They look like you could make some of them for your shop
Excelente eres un genio siempre sigo sus proyectos aunque no sea del mismo idioma pero lo que construye abla por si solo gracias felicitaciones dios lo bendiga saludos
Saya tertarik untuk bisa membuat sendiri tapi sayang disini aku cuma melihat orang bikin mesin bubut tanpa ada komentar .aku ingin ngerti komponen nya apa saja namanya dan ukuran yg ideal dan di dapat dimana? Aku benar2 ingin ngerti bagaimana caranya ? Trima kasih semoga ada yg mau tolong aku.
Parabéns Sek Áustria, é o mini torno mais bonito que já vi. Vou pegar o seu modelo como total referência. O difícil é encontrar o trilho linear e suas caixas, aqui no Brasil não tem pra comprar. Mesmo assim vou tentar fazer. Abraço.
Hello guys this is my Longest video ever :D
i hope you are doing well :) have a great day :)
Pashare nman ng dimensions/plan bro, kung pwede.
Gagawin ko muna nyan bro medjo matatagalan lang magpapahinga muna ako.
Hello friend it's measurements details can expect
Ill make it soon bro. I need aome rest first
👍👍👍
Excellent project. I applaud your effort and the end result. If you find you have rigidity issues, you may wish to consider a larger diameter main spindle shaft and possibly tapered bearings to eliminate end play. Also, maybe I missed it, take the chuck off that backing plate and face the plate so you know its true to the shaft, then re-assemble the chuck to it.. Welding has a way of making things move a bit. Thumbs up from me.
just here to upvote facing the backplate, no reason why you shouldn't eliminate as much cause of error as you can, this will help you hold a better tolerance and make your parts run a bit more true. Facing the back plate and getting some tapered roller bearings the chuck would go a long way, this DIY late should make some great parts after some upgrades.
You just built a machining lathe (that at least gets the job done) from 90% scrap! That is incredible! Bravo!
точностьу станка конечно так себе, но любой парень молодец и заслуживает уважения кто делает хоть что то, а не сидит на диване.
там даже соосности нет шпиндель-салазки...
Парень молодец но не рентабельно ,столько затрат а в итоге качество обработки кустарное ,с такой точностью ,даже лучше можно обработать деталь болгаркой и напильником доработать .Если знаешь способ.Не нужно заморачиваться с такой сложной конструкцией .
Sir SBR20 linear rail optical san po nakakabili reply nmn po sana thankyou
check mo description links ko.
Good job, buddy! It seems to me that some changes will be necessary in the future, but the machine for now working well :)
I was planning on making a similar machine for several months, but you were faster than me: D
Thanks bro. Your always making projects faster than me i always plan to build similar projects of yours but you were always posting it first. You are in the level of make it extreme bro im so proud of you :)
Next step a drill mill
Надеюсь ты сделаешь лучше.
Made in Poland I can’t wait to see yours too man. You do incredible work.
I have a feeling you will do a far better job.
⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐
I am enjoying this!! Says someone with 6 lathes and 2 mills.
BUT my first lathe was a school project which led to a Degree in 3 D Design.
A life teaching 3 D Design... And now making model Steam Locomotives. Yes I still use the home made Lathe with slipping belt clutch. Lots of love David and Lily.
Excellent, I'm coming over for some lessons.
But why did you not have the heart to tell him what he did wrong? Did you maybe figure that he learned what he did wrong in the process? It's great that he accomplished this but I don't know for sure that he does know the important differences between this and one that wouldn't require hammering a bearing on as we saw. Looks like that bearing didn't turn so well either after he did that. What would you say ...+/- .002" repeatability & accuracy?
I haven't made my own but I have rebuilt a little Smithy (Midas) 1220-xl except for the gearbox. Fortunately, the gearbox was sealed and hadn't been contaminated with sand rust like everything else. I'm just glad I went to school, watched 1000+ hours of videos and read up extensively, on the subjects I needed to know to make the thing chooch. The one thing I didn't realize though, was that the main reason my teachers were telling me not to get a mill/lathe combo was because they are horribly inefficient when you need to go from milling to turning or vice versa. The two just interfere with each other to much so If I gotta turn anything larger than 2.5" dia. the vice either has to come off or I have to position the vice far to one side so I have to take the work out of the vice & turn it around to mill the other side, just as one example.
Maybe he could make some modification to get some preloading. ...?
Kagaling e. Pahug nmn paps. Tnx
In case you don't know it, for the chuck you can get rid of those three expensive bearings, and use a tube with two bearings on each side, back to back, of the type used in car/trucks wheel hubs. These are tapered roller bearings, and are basically to conical matching parts (each). These will be able to handle more axial load than your lathe can put out, and even if from the scrap yard and used, will get you more precision and repeatability than those three altogether.
Good idea, and when you say "tube" did you have in mind something like 10 to 15 Centimeters (4 to 6 inch) diameter steel tube or pipe to house the bearings?
Nice bro thank you so much for the info.
It's easy to criticize after someone else builds something
@@morrislucero810 this is more a teaching moment than a criticism.
@@YT-User1013 sharing of ideas. 2nd mother of all inventions.
Good. But we need thrust bearing pads, because you will have axial play. Always having an inaccurate result.
This, though a homemade, but still a lathe, not an anvil. When you mark holes or wear a bearing with a hammer using a bed of a lathe, my heart starts to ache.
😂
Nice work. I was a little concerned about the precision of the measurements lining up the guide rods and such, but looks like it came out okay. One thing - get in the habit of *never* leaving the chuck key in the chuck unless your hand is on it, or one day, you *will* eat it when you forget and turn on the motor.
It's even worse when you turn on the motor with your hand on it and in the chuck.
How much money did you spend total?
Fabrication is not a art or hobby or what ever some people look at it , it is a way of living and is inside some people who grow up with it
It is just in some people!!!!!
Thomas D Harrell
I meant some who get familiar with it in early age
Hello ! Nice work ! What is the internal diameter of the bearings ? (diameter of the axis)
20mm
Thanks ! I will do my best to try to do the "same" !
Mantap
Very clever use of already fabricated parts! The ways and carriage are super hard to make, but your method simplifies the whole process, and could certainly be scaled up!
For a light duty* DIY home workshop lathe, using linear rails is a reasonably workable idea. The 20mm ones he's got are pretty strong, and have a useful amount of mass to them to help prevent tool chatter.
Where they fall down though is there's hardly any designs of bearing blocks that have a way to adjust for wear on them. Once there's play in them you can't just tighten up gib screws or resurface the ways. I suppose if you're careful about the bolt hole positioning when building it you could turn the rails around and use the less worn ends to get a bit more life out of them, But you'll probabbly still need to buy new bearing blocks.
(*By "Light duty" I mean one that's not used 24/7. If well thought out and constructed I'd think a DIY lathe made using linear rails would probably handle more strain and stay accurate longer than one with traditional dove tail ways, It's just that when it DOES show signs of wear there's not a lot you can do to sort it out other than replacing some pretty expensive hardware.)
honestly for an inexpensive DIY lathe this is really good, I had never considered using optical rails or bearing blocks
@@needdamemes2757 There is also issue of chips and metal dust getting into bearing blocks, ruining them real fast if not protected. There should some accessory parts to those blocks witch try prevent this from happening, but its not perfect solution and as mentioned just little wear and those are next to useless, ending up just wrecking havoc to inserts and surface finish. Its same effect that happened with my DIY mill, from cheap drillpress, cheap cross feed table and rather expensive tooling that got ruined every time it bumped. Tried it in "vertical lathe" setup but similar thing happened.
Then again his pillow bearing blocks wont be that accurate anyways, so this is well suited for occasional bushing adapter or such work, but any proper machining tolerances you can forget, though this is lots sturdier than cheap chinese lathes on the market, so with little design chances like cup bearing in the axle to center it properly, replacing threaded rod with machine screw with suitable slack removal like two nuts with strong spring between and building some protection for the ways, sure this will be much cheaper and does what it was designed to do.
Video của bạn quá tuyệt vời tôi học hỏi được rất nhiều điều ở đây
Cool video, but im about to seriously strangle that rooster...
nice 👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼
1) the chuck shaft should be 1st aligned with the lathe ways by putting a long straight shaft in the 3 bearings and check the alignment with a micrometer held on the carriage (using a magnet holder for ex) and moved along the ways. Alignemnt of the chuchk shaft can be modified using the adjusment screws on the 3 bearings.
2) the chuck backplate should be then turned on the lathe so that the ridge that goes in the chuck is concentric with the chuck shaft, only then should the backplate be drilled.
This machine ain't accurate enough for this anyway lol. I mean, hot rolled steel? Chinese Hardware? Get Real.
pinoy ka pala sir? wish 107.5 ang background ah?
Отличный станок для изготовления ручек для напильников.
только ручек ?
@@migorneirov798 я конечно не професионал, но мне почему то кажется что на более его и не хватит
@@rariteck как основа для творчества самое оно ))
@@denisko121 не в руках человека который подшипники забивает молотком и лениться банальную ржавчину убрать с уголков
@@denisko121 и если бы человек хотел, он мог бы постараться сделать нормальный станок, а в данном случаи он просто сворганил кривой корпус и прикрепил все основные детали токарного станка(как я увидел)
In theory if you take the chuck off and reface the mount now that that lathe works, it might make the chuck a little more aligned. Awesome stuff!
Now that you have a lathe, you can make a better lathe!
He can make that lather... Excuse me if you mill. I hope you stay in a great shaper and don't press yourself too hard.
Pretty good job. Amazing what people can do if you set your mind to it. Try and take out the minor play for a more accurate cut.
Well done and thanks for not using background music I prefer to hear the natural sounds like in this video!
I also appreciate the natural sounds....minus that goddamned rooster that i would have shot day one of this build
Fine job by the way.
Bạn rất giỏi!
Bán cho tôi một chiếc .
Заманчивое предложение, но делать я его конечно не буду ) Луше ТВ-шку куплю
Saya akan buat mesin seperti ini.
Good luck Mr.
Cool lathe! A tailstock next so you can turn more accurately between centers?
I would love to make them all but the video is taking too lonv. I might make it off cam. Thanks man
use just two spindle bearings - having three will cause all three to wear out very quickly. two bearings will last longer & is more accurate
Hi. Just curious. What spindle bearing u talking about ? Is that pillow block you mean? Thanks
@@jokamwellington4806 yes, pillow blocks there being used to support the shaft - the spindle - having more than two will almost always induce runout and cause unnecessary wear without really being any more stable or rigid. If you need stable and rigid, self centering pillow blocks aren't really the thing to use, tapered roller bearings in fitted castings tend to be the most rigid & precise.
Your machine will last longer and stay true if you don't hammer on it.
Sir galing m nmn saan k nkabili ng ginamit m sa lathe bed ung slide sa tubo
beautiful job... but can you pleas kill that chicken... hahaha
I would have had a Rooster sandwich already
Nice to see a young man using practical skills i learnt in my first ever job and have never forgotten. despite it ending 20 years ago after 13 years in the trade.
Great work just as a point for the future, instead of using a solid roundbar for the head shaft use a 3mm or bigger walled pipe, this will allow you to turn longer projects that run through the pipe, but this would mean you will have to replace those head bearings as well for bigger units and resleaving the main pully. Good luck and I like this build.
The problem is finding such a tube. Show a URL where it can be purchased please along with the correct bearing to also fit. Otherwise it's not helpful at all. It's just criticism not helping
based on the rooster i assume this took 18 months to complete
Every call of the rooster, I took a gulp of an adult beverage. 🍺
👍👍👍
Hammering on your bearings to center punch holes? Mark the holes and move the plate to the bench.
Om kalo pesen bikin berapa harganya om.?
Mohon d bales
Great job overall, but i have always understood that you never use 3 bearings on a relatively short stiff shaft because they 'fight against' each other and produce vibration and wear out! You should just use two bearings on the lathe spindle. The front one , supporting the chuck, should be the biggest and most robust, eg a roller bearing. The rear one can be a big deep groove ball bearing, to withstand end thrust. Likewise, the linear ball bearings on the saddle and cross-slide should only be in pairs and not threes when spaced close, because it will cause rocking.
@Raul mechanics yes taper roller bearings will cope with radial load and thrust much better, intact that's exactly what they are designed for.
Việt Nam giờ chế cháo có khác chi Tây đâu. Bạn làm video rất chuyên nghiệp
DUDE! you gotta shorten that tool overhang at 20:00. You’ll be lucky if it doesn’t rip the toolholder from the machine. 😜
Luckily it didnt i am also aware of that, it cant reach the back plate thats why.. Thanks man
True
Chicken tonight?
Chicken or egg springs to mind you need a lathe to make lathe or so.Great job!!!!
Como fasso pra compra
Bjkmknn. Jhkknnmnnnjjb. Mmmk uuuiioghhkjh
.
@@thuthanh5660 resep kue
สุดติ่งกะดิ้งแมวๆๆๆๆ
The easiest to build. Grade 1000.
A mais fácil de ser construída. Nota 1000
Kalau beli rel nya aja terdekat
Tolong balasan nya ..bahasa indonesia ya ..kalau beli relnya aja di indonesia ada enggak?
продольный люфт не победить на этом станке
Galing galing mo po!!! Ang Mabuti naman machine!!!! Awesome work!!! 😎👍🏼🇵🇷
nice project, well done. this guy will survive an apocalypse. might buy two cone pulleys and get three or four spindle speeds
Wie kann jemand in der Nähe der Führungsschienen schweißen 🤮🤮🤮
You should have built the main shaft and bearing supports from something solid like a couple of matching vehicle driveshaft assemblies which have mighty bearing holders. Upgrade to at least a 3hp motor. Set up coolant feed using an old oil pump with filter. Set up an emergency stop switch and electromagnetic brake coupling. Let her rip!
Well said bro. I think there will be a part two of this project thanks for the suggestion bro :)
Rooster rule
I love it! I would suggest using a different motor which allows speed variation. The smaller the diameter of the piece of metal your turning, the more RPM you need. Maybe one of a bigger hand drill would be a good choice, since these motors are usually electronically controlled.
>>>>
The problem is PWM and you will lose torque. Better is to calculate a 'gearbox' with different wheels and put the belt on a different wheel to change the speed.
Execellent! But Im just freacking out for security norms
10 out of 10 for ingenuity! Need a lathe? Build a lathe! 👍
I'm out of money and want a lathe machine... And bam your video came up.. Thx... Surely I'll make this up one day.... Untill thx...
Thanks and goodluck bro.
If you do, you'd be much better off using taper roller bearings, even if not precision bearings. Maybe even ones off junk car with good wheel bearings. You can see the these bearings runout when he starts a cut. These pillow blocks are not meant for axial load and there's noway to preload them like a taper bearing. I think doing that and moving the toolpost closer to spindle would give you a chance at decent surface finish, it just is not going to happen with those bearings and and that much tool stickout. Good luck
@@SekAustria
What was your total cost for this project, How much for the welder the drill press and all the extra metal you used. Please give us the amount of time you spent on the project. Nice job but at what cost
@@Steve_Just_Steve Side load bearing are much better, Tapered Rollers need to be lubed all the time
@@gfdfperte4248 are you talking about a thrust bearing? That would be better than nothing, but I don't know why they have to be lubed more than any other bearing. Besides you need to lube any machine anytime you use it.
Boa noite sou o Edson de Ferraz de Vasconcelos SP e quero parabenizar seu trabalho sou fam desse tipo de máquina parabéns muito bom
Cant you kill this Chicken - rooster and eat it ? Its disturbing and noisy :)
I would love to kill, cook and eat but sadly it was not ours lol haha :D
Great build. @1:38 I love your re-bar hacksaw. :-) :-)
Очень мало жесткости у станка, за желание твердая 5, а за исполнение однозначно 2)))))))
хотя бы так повтори потом критикуй )
@@СамоДелки22 а почему ты думаешь, что я не строю станки?
@@ЛевЛещенко-о8л двойка - сильно низкаяоценка для такого станка ..вот почему
@@СамоДелки22 Ну, у каждого свои стандарты)
@@ЛевЛещенко-о8л я сейчас достраиваю..правда больше для сошлифовки валов ..покажу скоро. только у меня с гамна и палок )
Столько материала, патрон, направляющие, подшипники, держатель для резцов, куча возни, уйма времени. В реультате имеем что-то отдаленно напоминающее токарный станок, но без нониусов, задней бабки, подачи, жесткости и точности. Сказочная глупость. Дешевле купить китайский станочек.
Работа шикарнейшая!
Особенно понравилась ножовка!
Не решён вопрос с миллиметровой шкалой подачи в двух осях.
А че там шикарнейшего? Неверно выбраны направляющие, винты, подшипниковый узел бабки. В итоге куча труда и на выходе поделка для обдирки чего-то мягкого, типа дерева, пластика, алюминия. Крайне слабые направляющие, U образные каретки гибкие, они непригодны для силовых операций. Если бы взял рельсовые направляющие, они не сильно дороже, но куда жестче, то уже что-то бы получилось.
BELI DI MN MAS ITU PENJEPIT NYA
Wow, this is amazing! Is a great video. Congratulations from Brazil.
i love the rooster background music.next thing to make is a power hacksaw.. for the rebar hacksaw you already have... excellent job on the lathe
Extremely impressive build given the few simple tools you used. But be very careful when using that machine. Only the spinning momentum of that little chuck will surprise you if you give it as much as a chance. Even heavy factory built precision lathes can behave a bit unpredictably at times depending on the work. Please keep all of your fingers, you will need them for future projects. =)
Too much sideway torque forces exerted on the Chuck you reckon as well as the metal hardness being worked on and RPM settings....on that machine seems to be only one speed setting..
Three jaw chuck is self centering and would have made the assembly more easy.
You know the moment I have a home with a shed to work in, I'm coming back to this video among others. This beast is one item too big to move between the laundry alcove and the outside workbench daily.
Data you can purchase a Mini Lathe for about 500$ and it does everything. But ok go for it
Why the mask? Nevermind I get it. You must have built the drug submarines for EL-CHOPPO.🤣🤣
Your leadscrew holder is too weak and will soon have axial end play.
The linear bearing with recirculating balls are very susceptible to debris and must be protected, don't you have a lot of backlack already ?
Wow... How many lathes have you made again now???
easy just put brush bristle on both ends.
Do you have chickens??
A lot
You gotta dig up a old 2.5hp PMDC treadmill motor with a Gemini 12m04-00151 PWM speed controller,hook up a 6 or 10k potentiometer and 🤯🥳
I've successfully made a PMDC treadmill motor speed controller using a SCR motor controller, and a bridge rectifier to convert the power from AC to DC. It definitely works, but could probably use some more refinement, and possibly some capacitors to help smooth out the DC voltage on the output. This might be another less expensive option if someone has a motor but no PWM speed controller available. I'd strongly recommend anyone interested in this to do their own research to make sure that they know what they're doing, what they're working on, and how it all works, as mains voltage can be lethal if one isn't careful with it. I hope this helps point someone in the right direction and gives people more options and good ideas to explore :)
nice video very informative. subukan ko din gumawa nito for addition on my small workshop. 😁
Yo....wear gloves bro. Welding gives off U.V. rays, among other things. You don't want to be getting skin cancer on your fingers. Nice work though, and I'm loving the center punch you got there.
He was using gloves 24:41
Tooling angle is slightly high, and too close to 90° to the cutting surface for me. Add some relief by using a tooling block with a radius cut on one side. Should take care of both issues. How accurate is the bed, and do you plan a tail stock? Nice build, btw!
I can't imagine it being to accurate being the cross slide was installed using a square. However with a dial indicator he may have enough play in the bolt holes to bring it in. Same thing for the the rails on the bed way he could adjust the spindle bearings to be parallel. I cant see this being as good as what you can get for $600 - $700 in a mini. It might have a bit more swing but would take a lot to get it dialed in. But I give him props for building it anyway. I might have to see if he has a video with it dialed in any better. You are very correct about the angle of the tool. I wish him the best of luck.
Filha
Wonder if like me, this guy just can't help himself when it comes to making stuff.
I have a CNC machine I made that rivals almost all commercial models in overall size and accuracy.
Uses precision servos and ball screws yet cost me less than $2000 overall.
I'm now in the process of finishing another even much larger CNC that uses mainly 11ga formed steel as base frame for all three axis that will be universal. It's a water jet cutter, laser engraver/cutter/ router with 3hp water cooled spindle as well as plasma table with torch height control. I have less than $3000 invested and I'm about %90 completed.
I'll be selling detailed plans for this machine soon.
I have a 5' x 10' plasma table in the other shop that inspired me to do this one.
So yes. I really like building machines of all type.
Been doing proto type design and build for clients now for 30 years and it's just in my blood I suppose.
hey Larry....your plans sound interesting. where will you be selling them and how much?
Sounds rather fishy to me. Sure you can build stuff on the cheap. But good ball screws and servos are not cheap. Not to mention the stuff required to drive them. Seems a rather bold claim to "rival almost all commercial models in overall size and accuracy" for under $2000. Having said that, if you're not using excessive amounts of hyperbole, I too would be interested in the plans.
grabe idol to... pangarap kong magkaron ng lathe
до половины досмотрел только..петух замудал со своим кукареканьем..не мог он его перед началом работ на суп отправить
boing boing boing boing. you can see the chuck jiggling. so...
От на яких станках вони збирають мотоблоки))
Good start. Now I want to see a gearbox, a feed screw, and some kind of measurement markings!
When you return with the cutting tool after making a cut, you should move it away from the material. You'll get a better surface finish :)
...что за слесарь-Арлекин?
muy buena creación
di jual ga tuh bos...
I enjoy men intense DIY, you really need a dial micro dial indicator to get your work run-outs to a minimum.
A youtuber David Richards ( steam powered machine shop) he has some hand built tools for machining diy built some are over 100 years old and still working. They look like you could make some of them for your shop
А где такие салазки можно купить?
Well done I need one , but with three jaw chuck ( I'm lazy )
Excelente eres un genio siempre sigo sus proyectos aunque no sea del mismo idioma pero lo que construye abla por si solo gracias felicitaciones dios lo bendiga saludos
Very very good job 👍 😉
Saya tertarik untuk bisa membuat sendiri tapi sayang disini aku cuma melihat orang bikin mesin bubut tanpa ada komentar
.aku ingin ngerti komponen nya apa saja namanya dan ukuran yg ideal dan di dapat dimana? Aku benar2 ingin ngerti bagaimana caranya ? Trima kasih semoga ada yg mau tolong aku.
good job,
but, don't hammer your bearing at lathe
Yes, apply tube (or socket wrench) to inner race to pound onto shaft.
Kill the rooster.
Parabéns Sek Áustria, é o mini torno mais bonito que já vi. Vou pegar o seu modelo como total referência. O difícil é encontrar o trilho linear e suas caixas, aqui no Brasil não tem pra comprar. Mesmo assim vou tentar fazer. Abraço.
The best