It's easy. At first, I thought it wouldn't work, but I did it, and it still stands strong. I will give an update soon for those afraid to try or think it will crack or be a joke. The professional gave me an estimated $4000 to do the project, but I risked it, and it worked out great. You must be patient and add design to the edges before watering it down.
Yeah, I just bought an old mixer for $70 and did my project the right way. Pulled forms same day, good enough for the kids to ride their bikes on by the next.
@@tashikathomas1093 has no issues the only mistake I made was doing it in an extremely hot day and when the upper crust formed and the water turned into gas for the hot temperature it broke a couple of parts on the top but jut the crust and it happen immediately within one hour if I remember correctly. If I had done it in a cool day nothing would have happened. I live in Arizona so it was over 100 degrees. Other than that is perfectly fine but there’s no weight on it, we just step on it once or twice daily.
I did a dry pour into my severely cracked driveway. I wanted to see how it would go. Poured it and swept the concrete into the cracks. Wet it and its actually pretty good!
I removed some fence posts set about 4 years ago dry pour, they concrete fell right off so i found a pro video where they compared and pressure tested, the dry pour blew apart at 3 inches with 90 days to cure. the wet pour was just fine. it LOOKS good but it just doesnt set right
I hope this isn’t a dumb question, but wouldn’t it be faster if pour a layer of cement, then wet, let dry; then repeat? The bottom is guaranteed to be try then right?
You will have an issue getting the layers of cement to bond to each other. Over time it will separate and peel away and you will have to redo it anyway.
@@DoctorTelefononot if you texture each layer and use a cement primer before each pour, but this is becoming Way too ridiculous. Just pour wet or dry if you're going to do it. I still prefer wet.
You can buy the cement from Home Depot pre-mixed. Just pour it and add water. It's easy. Mist, small shower, and then shower, you can tell if you are doing it. No fear, you can do it.
Sadly it won’t last. Seen multiple tests and this method, the concrete is weak and brittle. Corners will easily chip off and it will not last. Go do a search if you think am lying.
Very true, plenty of RUclips videos on this very subject. Often in construction these type of quick easy methods are just plain dumb, if the method has worked for years it don't need a reinventing 😂
I agree that wet pour is better, but dry pour does have a place in certain projects. But to say that a working method doesn't need reinventing is somewhat stupid. How do you think things are improved? People change and test current things until they find something better. Then we have a better way. For example: Before someone came up with concrete they used mud. I'm sure glad they decided to try a new method. I'm also glad someone decided to start mixing it with machines and carrying it with trucks.
@@Floridaburg- Depends on how you do it and the type of concrete/cement you use. Typically, the surface of the concrete needs a rough surface to bond to. So adding a layer of concrete to a smooth layer of concrete won’t have good long term viability. It will hold initially, but it will take far less effort to separate compared to bonding with a roughed up layer. And that weak bond will eventually see the concrete layers separate over time. There are concrete repair or covering products that are meant to bond to the flat surface of concrete, but aren’t meant to have a lot of structural strength.
@@Floridaburg- You could pour a solid slab that size by yourself in a day. Do all your prep work the day before (tamp the ground, tamp the gravel layer, level the form, and set up the rebar), then mix and pour the slab the next day. Just make sure you pregame some Aleve or some kind of OTC painkiller, and stay hydrated.
There's research and lots of tests that show that this isn't near as strong as pre-mixing. But I think depending on what you're using it for, it probably do3snt matter
I need to build a concrete base so that I can put a shed on top of it. I can't afford thousands of dollars to pay someone. Is dry concrete good for what I need to do? I have zero experience with concrete, but I'm a fast learner and I can build stuff, especially working with wood. Thanks in advance. From what I've seen I need to first put gravel underneath before pouring concrete. One other question, if I have some thin metal rods, can I put them half way (depth wise) in the concrete so it can last longer?
Have to make sure your base rock layer is compacted properly for anything that will have weight on it at all. Best to hire someone that knows what they're doing rather than put the money out to have it mess up on you and have to put more money out to have it properly done.
What type of shed a mower shed that weighs a few hundred kgs or a car shed? Watch Cajun country dry poor slab they did a 1yr test on and it's held up better then wet slab as you only add enough water to set the concrete. Much easier to finish dry aswell as your not fighting against the clock and sticky wet Crete. Well compacted gravel layer wood form and enough sacks to fill the hole. Plus some rebar for long life.
I heard something about PSI when working with dry concrete versus wet, I recommend you read the bag of concrete, maybe it will tell you the PSI difference, because it might not be able to withhold the weight of the shed
It took about an hour, depending on the weather, too hot or cold. It was a hot summer with the sun outside when we poured and watered the cement. But try not to put too much water; allow it to sink down. It works great. Our sidewalk still remains strong and together. I didn't believe it at first, but I tried it, and it worked great. Thanks.
Space between top of new slab and bottom of siding too narrow- can lead to prolonged moisture exposure to the sill plate. Not saying this is what he has, but for example, Hardie siding requires minimum 4” gap from bottom edge of siding to any horizontal surface. Also looks like he made slab level when it should slope away from house. Going to have some nice green or brown staining on the siding.
Not the video author, but most people do 1 hour between watering, but I did 30 min on mine and it seems fine to me. (I was in a hurry, and honestly didn't see the need to wait.)
@@d.a.4121 Nope, no problems at all. It's had ladders scraping across it and freezing temps with no issues. I'm about 6 months in. (I also did set-in-place bolts and those have held fine, as well.)
@@ronhanishyea it does, soak the ground beneath before you begin the dry pour and the moisture will absorb through the bottom and top, dont listen to these haters who say it makes weak concrete they just dont want people to figure out how to do this stuff for cheap so they can rip them off
Looks good! These no it all’s are hilarious! Why pay a professional when you can do it for a fraction of the price!! It does hold up if you do it right and it’s not like a car is being driven on it! People always have to be negative but if it’s not for you, you have nothing to worry about! 🙄🤷🏻♀️
Can I do this on a concrete floor that is not leveled? Would I need to put some sort of bonding agent? This is inside a shed so it’s not a problem of wetting the floor.
@@lyricscann great idea, come to youtube comments section on a video about doing concrete the wrong way for all your construction questions. Jesus no wonder people think its a joke when someone says they learned how to do something on RUclips. Think about it for a min, does it even sound like that would be the right way to do it for a project that you want to last a long time?!
Last year I did a slab and mixed the cement before pouring it. This year I'll be trying this method because I want to extend the concrete. This method seems to be much more easier.
Start with a light mist twice within 10 minutes and hose it down lightly. Request throughout the day. You'll be fine. I'm afraid to do it first, but hey, it works. Cajun Country got me started on the project, so check them out if you need more help. I'm doing it my way. Both of my sidewalks are awesome, and I have no complaints.
If so good a result why not standard practice? Industry would develop a dry system use/delivery method to exploit this if feasible. It's more than that i know but dry is less than 100% a mix in that "container" causing spots of dry mix, use a vibrator?
Noticed how every negative comments here are either works in the construction of some sort related to cement/concrete or straight up concrete business owner/workers. This tells you a lot😂😂😂. $4K for that is crazy. I myself dry poured a triple garage I built 8yrs ago and still going strong! Way better than $20k!! It's also sealed with Epoxy for oil stains and spills just in case.
Question for you,I have some experience w/concrete mixing but not much...I see how the guy 'mists' the water for obvious reasons,allows it to harden / dry a bit,then repeats..but how do you know when the water has saturated enough completely through the dry concrete powder? At what point do you say "ok this is good enough an then remove the 2×4's? Is there a sure way to see its done for sure before u remove the wood?
@@dwade6322 this heavily depends on what brand of dry pour you are using really. The instruction is on evey bag you buy or on their website or youtube. So I can't say for sure. I used quickrete in my garage. If the instruction says mist it every 30mins per inch i'd go a head and do every 20mins instead. If its asking for 5 times, i'll do 6 or 7 times. Hard to really get it wrong. Dry pour is engineered for ease of use. I remove my frames after 3 days/72hrs and continues to heavily saturate it once every day. Do not touch or place anything heavy for another 7 days. Always use rebar or wire/mesh for strenght. Let the science do the work for you! Be careful when it's sunny day! You will need to saturate it more often than should. Wait 2 weeks then start building anything on it. Some people in youtube skipped the wait and still made great results. But this is how i mine in all of my projects.
@@dwade6322 your bag will tell you how much total water you should use from start to finish. anything after that is all up to you. If the bag says, you dont have to go further, thats up to you too. Again, its really hard to get this wrong. Everything thats listed in the instruction is more than enough and will give you great result! Wait time to build on it like pergola or gazebo is the hardest part😂😂😂
Don’t trust the dry pour method, its just lazy, take the time to do the job right and you’ll be much happier. Your slab or post will start to chip and crack much sooner than if you just follow simple directions on a bag. This method is the definition of someone who says they don’t need to read directions. Do better guys cmon.
People are sick of corporate agendas. Break the rules the world is garbage. Experiment, at least history will have a record of our Experiments, that religious war dogs won't be able to erase.
Thats perfect. Im always amazed how over engineered walkways are. Its for WALKING but you see pros use steel too! I had to remove a walking pad once and it took me a week bevause of that! This looked far far easier than mixing/pouring.
This can be done properly in a mixer or even hand mixed in a large bucket using sand ,cement and chippings at the correct ratio and it'l be solid within 24 hours , this videos way is not going to be as strong plus it takes ages
You can do it by layers too, you will be sure the middle will be wet too, every 2 inch you put, you wet and the final top layer you do like this video.
I’m no expert but I did go to a civil engineering school and have a degree in it. There were classes focusing on concrete and strength of materials. I wonder why people mix concrete? It’s much easier to dry pour, why were we not taught this method? To summarize concrete has a chemical reaction with the water , sand, aggregate and Portland cement. Concrete can have many amendments added that strengthen and give it special properties such as steel rebar, fencing and nowadays ground metal shavings all to enhance strength of the concrete. There are also amendments that can alter the properties of the concrete for example cold weather. Concrete mixed properly will have most of its strength in the first 30 days thus the variable f subprime. This not mixing it up, and just dumping the Portland cement out is strange at best. I was in Mexico , deep In Mexico once in my life. They mix it using the volcano method. A volcano of Portland cement and the sand and the water, no wheelbarrow even. Five gallon pails to truck it to sight. It was throughly mixed though. Using shovels and hard labor. Skipping the mixing is much easier and attractive for that reason. It will not have the strength a proper mix would have. If it’s so wonderful why is it not standard practice in construction? There are reasons.
To get the 4000 psi the bag claims it will have to be properly mixed, that’s all I’m saying. No mix , no chemical reaction throughout. I’ve had bags harden from sitting in my shed , moisture came from the air and time. The half full bag hardened but was very brittle . I threw it out . lol
Concretes works by chemical reaction with water. When you dry poor like this it is inherently weaker as not all of the concrete has reacted with the water and hardened
To get the same quality finish takes a lot of skill with wet cement. (I am guessing, never saw dry cement "poured" before "in real life.") On a dry pour you can endlessly keep sweeping and smoothing till it looks perfect. No time limit before it sets up.
@@plethoraOFtrivia not really, you can buy a mixer at harbor freight or use a wheel barrow. An ugly job would be better than dry pour. It's very brittle and half the strength. You can literally break it apart with your fingers. It will look very old easily.
@@plethoraOFtriviaYou can get this finish in wet concrete with a broom and an edger. No hate to the video poster at all, im not trying to talk down about anyones work at all, and its good to see families working together and tackling things themselves. The fact is though that this finish is very sandy and will deteriorate quickly. It looks like something that was bull floated and broomed, meaning it doesnt take a lot of trowel work to get a finish like this. A handy person with a couple hand tools could probably get a finish that looks like this or better, with the benefit of a denser surface and a stronger slab overall. Again, not trying to be mean at all, just speaking from my experience of not only finishing but teaching people how to finish and seeing how these skills are picked up. Some things in concrete are very difficult and take a lot of skill. I wouldnt say this is one of them. A broom finished 3x5 pad like this is about the easiest starter project you can take on to learn basic skills
If it's not seen. Buried posts or back of garage pad id do dry. Heavy foot traffic I'm mixing. Do two projects and call in the minimum mixer load, probably 4 yds Search concrete and have the hole ready. Most drivers if you hand him an iced coffee will walk you thru or tell you before you fck up
Concrete bags inside a shed will set like a rock from the moisture in the air alone. I got 10 at home that I can barely use without bashing with a sledge hammer first. And concrete mix has dehydrated lime that socks in plenty of mousiture and they are flooding the slab with water as it soaks in. The only reason they mist the top first is to set the texture they want before heavy watering.
It won't hold up to a car... But people walking on it? It should be okay. Though I don't know how well dry pour concrete will hold up in winter climates.
@@ronhanish there has been a few people who tested the dry pour vs wet pour methods. One even cut right through one to see how cured it got. The answer was pretty much as you'd expect. The cure was incomplete in the dry pour. While it did hold it's shape, it was overall brittle. They were able to chip away at it with their bare hands. It'll hold up a person walking on it, but I'd never suggest putting anything over 800 lbs on it.
Make sure you do a top layer of cement powder and sand, not the stuff with the gravel in it. When you screed it, the gravel won't cause an issue. Thank me later. I'm going to do a dry pour in the next few weeks
@@jakefriesenjake Thank you! I got this message after the fact. We tried our first paver. I noticed there was a lot of gravel even after screeding the Quikrete mix. My dry pour came out rough on top. My son and I will add mortar (cement and sand) on top tomorrow to smooth it out more. Hopefully it works. It was our 1st try.
@@YvetteR-ep2hc they make specialty concrete resurfacing concrete mix, probably be better off with that. Also, look up "white washing" or "painting with portland". That is also a great way to make old concrete look alot better. Many options. I did a small test sample using dry pour today. It's been like 8 hours already and it is not setting up nearly as good as I would like it too. Maybe it will be better in the morning
@@jakefriesenjake Hi! Thanks for all the advice. After much research, my son and I decided to try the Quikrete sand topping mix to fix our paver. It worked out well. Our paver is now smooth and looks so much better than before. It's totally trial and error. We are dong another paver tomorrow with Quikrete dry pour and we'll see how it turns out. We just have to remember to screed the surface better this time. Hopefully it won't give us the gravel results we had with the 1st one.
A lot of improvements have gone into the formulations since the requirement of rebar installation. Fiberglass for instance, and pea gravel might not be seen in the mixture. Also, how many overweight (eg earthmoving tractors) vehicles will be driving on it?
@@craigmatheson2736 it doesn't even need to have anything driving over it, dry pouring will always resulted in much much sooner cracking when the soil settled, temperature changes, and water freezing under or inside of the concrete. Back in engineering schools we were thought how laughably bad dry poured concrete is compared to any wet poured concrete. Concrete need water to solidified, not just because you have to make it wet, the water inside the concrete literally become part of the concrete chemically and molecularly. All the water doesn't just evaporated when you think it's dry.
It’s weaker than a real pour, but if it’s just people walking on it all the time it will last for a long time. Now if you’re driving a car on it and parking a car… won’t last. But in this situation nothing wrong with it. 😂
I hope you didn’t have your child standing around while you opened that stuff up. Not trying to be annoying but that stuff contains a lot of silica dust and can damage your lungs over time.
It's easy. At first, I thought it wouldn't work, but I did it, and it still stands strong. I will give an update soon for those who are afraid to try or think that it will crack or be a joke. The professional gave me an estimated $4000 to do the project, but I risked it, and it worked out great. You have to be patient and add design on the edges before watering it down.
I have never done a dry pour. After watching this, I still won’t. Cool video 👍🏼
Why? Looks way better
😂 they have some good info for dry pours on other channels ..come on give it a try lol
@@Apexpurrfectionsure it might. Until it splits in half
@@ziadajam5433 finally! Someone understands
@@Apexpurrfection if looks are more important to you than longevity then you should stay away from concrete
It's easy. At first, I thought it wouldn't work, but I did it, and it still stands strong. I will give an update soon for those afraid to try or think it will crack or be a joke. The professional gave me an estimated $4000 to do the project, but I risked it, and it worked out great. You must be patient and add design to the edges before watering it down.
Great job on your project, I hit like cause the baby said so 😊👍🏾 🎉
Just buy sand and aggregate by the trailer and add cement it's cheaper
All concrete cracks fyi but steel mesh helps, you need to add a joint in middle, can even cut it out with a grinder or cement saw
I don’t blame you for doing it yourself. 4k is crazy for something that small.
Yeah, I just bought an old mixer for $70 and did my project the right way. Pulled forms same day, good enough for the kids to ride their bikes on by the next.
I made my first dry pour a few weeks ago and looks great 🎉 thanks Cajun Country .
What is a good thickness height?
How is it holding up, now?
@@tashikathomas1093 has no issues the only mistake I made was doing it in an extremely hot day and when the upper crust formed and the water turned into gas for the hot temperature it broke a couple of parts on the top but jut the crust and it happen immediately within one hour if I remember correctly. If I had done it in a cool day nothing would have happened. I live in Arizona so it was over 100 degrees. Other than that is perfectly fine but there’s no weight on it, we just step on it once or twice daily.
@@robertoj8950pics?
I did a dry pour into my severely cracked driveway. I wanted to see how it would go. Poured it and swept the concrete into the cracks. Wet it and its actually pretty good!
Omg your son is so cute talking into the camera! Thanks for the demo - going to try my own dry pour...🤞
i´m thinking about doing the same on larger scale but i´m thinking using rebar aswell
Let us know how it went. Seems like a great idea for a larger project adding the rebar
Looks great. How did you get the sides to have the color difference. Smoothing it out?
I don't remember the name. Got it from home depot. Stainless steel with curve edge.
@@EvanPlayTimes That’s great. Thanks. So, basically it’s a tool that’s made for it
Edger
Trowel edger
How far apart in time do you wet it?@EvanPlayTimes
I removed some fence posts set about 4 years ago dry pour, they concrete fell right off so i found a pro video where they compared and pressure tested, the dry pour blew apart at 3 inches with 90 days to cure. the wet pour was just fine. it LOOKS good but it just doesnt set right
Would be ok for stepping stones but nothing load bearing
I hope this isn’t a dumb question, but wouldn’t it be faster if pour a layer of cement, then wet, let dry; then repeat? The bottom is guaranteed to be try then right?
You will have an issue getting the layers of cement to bond to each other. Over time it will separate and peel away and you will have to redo it anyway.
@@DoctorTelefononot if you texture each layer and use a cement primer before each pour, but this is becoming Way too ridiculous. Just pour wet or dry if you're going to do it. I still prefer wet.
Amazing...Thank you just quick question what did you put on it before the water..some powder??plz help
You can buy the cement from Home Depot pre-mixed. Just pour it and add water. It's easy. Mist, small shower, and then shower, you can tell if you are doing it. No fear, you can do it.
Sadly it won’t last. Seen multiple tests and this method, the concrete is weak and brittle. Corners will easily chip off and it will not last. Go do a search if you think am lying.
I wondered about that... thank u for the heads up
Very true, plenty of RUclips videos on this very subject. Often in construction these type of quick easy methods are just plain dumb, if the method has worked for years it don't need a reinventing 😂
Yep 100%
RUclips is so stupid
I agree that wet pour is better, but dry pour does have a place in certain projects. But to say that a working method doesn't need reinventing is somewhat stupid. How do you think things are improved? People change and test current things until they find something better. Then we have a better way. For example: Before someone came up with concrete they used mud. I'm sure glad they decided to try a new method. I'm also glad someone decided to start mixing it with machines and carrying it with trucks.
Dry pouring seems like both an elaborate prank and genious.
It is a prank, it makes a very weak, very fragile version of concrete. It was never meant to be used this way.
@@glyssvictarion4387 yeah anything past people walking around on it, you'll be regretting not doing it correctly
@sagasta1983 well it says it's only a sidewalk. Located on sidewalk of his house so I figure it won't get much damage
@@johnholladay9497This will crack and fall apart within a few years at most, it's a complete waste of time
Lots of people do it...all over the internet w/updates.
I’m a fan of dry pour in certain situations. This is not a weight bearing application so it’s quick and easy.
The bottom and middle of that slab are still powder. The water doesn’t permeate through enough to soak the powder after that 1st or 2nd soak.
Can you do it in layers? And basically do the last layer and level it so it’s flat
@@Floridaburg- Depends on how you do it and the type of concrete/cement you use. Typically, the surface of the concrete needs a rough surface to bond to. So adding a layer of concrete to a smooth layer of concrete won’t have good long term viability. It will hold initially, but it will take far less effort to separate compared to bonding with a roughed up layer. And that weak bond will eventually see the concrete layers separate over time.
There are concrete repair or covering products that are meant to bond to the flat surface of concrete, but aren’t meant to have a lot of structural strength.
@@WyldfireKeeper was thinking of just doing a 9x12 patio for a few chairs and a table
@@Floridaburg- You could pour a solid slab that size by yourself in a day. Do all your prep work the day before (tamp the ground, tamp the gravel layer, level the form, and set up the rebar), then mix and pour the slab the next day. Just make sure you pregame some Aleve or some kind of OTC painkiller, and stay hydrated.
@@Floridaburg- And if you can afford it, a corded drill with a mixing attachment will save your back a good amount of strain and pain.
So the sprinkling of the cake tool over the cement sidewalk is for grip. Good 💡👍 idea
There's research and lots of tests that show that this isn't near as strong as pre-mixing. But I think depending on what you're using it for, it probably do3snt matter
I need to build a concrete base so that I can put a shed on top of it. I can't afford thousands of dollars to pay someone. Is dry concrete good for what I need to do? I have zero experience with concrete, but I'm a fast learner and I can build stuff, especially working with wood. Thanks in advance.
From what I've seen I need to first put gravel underneath before pouring concrete. One other question, if I have some thin metal rods, can I put them half way (depth wise) in the concrete so it can last longer?
Only if it's the will of buttman
I gotta do the same thing soon, how did yours turn out???
Have to make sure your base rock layer is compacted properly for anything that will have weight on it at all. Best to hire someone that knows what they're doing rather than put the money out to have it mess up on you and have to put more money out to have it properly done.
What type of shed a mower shed that weighs a few hundred kgs or a car shed? Watch Cajun country dry poor slab they did a 1yr test on and it's held up better then wet slab as you only add enough water to set the concrete. Much easier to finish dry aswell as your not fighting against the clock and sticky wet Crete. Well compacted gravel layer wood form and enough sacks to fill the hole. Plus some rebar for long life.
I heard something about PSI when working with dry concrete versus wet, I recommend you read the bag of concrete, maybe it will tell you the PSI difference, because it might not be able to withhold the weight of the shed
nice! bro after the 1st shower how many hrs did u wait before u did the 2nd one?
It took about an hour, depending on the weather, too hot or cold. It was a hot summer with the sun outside when we poured and watered the cement. But try not to put too much water; allow it to sink down. It works great. Our sidewalk still remains strong and together. I didn't believe it at first, but I tried it, and it worked great. Thanks.
Why do it once when you can do it twice and waste your time and money ripping it all out and redoing it
Thats only 1year job…….
WHY
Why even even do it once when you drink and smoke pot 😂
@@rodolfobeans3531 Sure if you want to be useless.
Space between top of new slab and bottom of siding too narrow- can lead to prolonged moisture exposure to the sill plate. Not saying this is what he has, but for example, Hardie siding requires minimum 4” gap from bottom edge of siding to any horizontal surface. Also looks like he made slab level when it should slope away from house. Going to have some nice green or brown staining on the siding.
TRUE NO SLOPE
What was the interval times for watering. Thanks
Not the video author, but most people do 1 hour between watering, but I did 30 min on mine and it seems fine to me. (I was in a hurry, and honestly didn't see the need to wait.)
@@connorpenrod397any feedback on how yours resulted. Any crack now a few months in?
@@d.a.4121 Nope, no problems at all. It's had ladders scraping across it and freezing temps with no issues. I'm about 6 months in. (I also did set-in-place bolts and those have held fine, as well.)
@@connorpenrod397 glad to hear! Cheers
I enjoyed the video. My son and I doing a dry concrete pour tomorrow. 12x20 with rebar.
I never really seen that before it does it work good?
@@ronhanish no it don't,dry pour makes concrete weak and brittle, it will harden but won't last
@@ronhanishyea it does, soak the ground beneath before you begin the dry pour and the moisture will absorb through the bottom and top, dont listen to these haters who say it makes weak concrete they just dont want people to figure out how to do this stuff for cheap so they can rip them off
How did it turn out? Considering doing one for a gazebo I purchased about 13x15
Looks good! These no it all’s are hilarious! Why pay a professional when you can do it for a fraction of the price!! It does hold up if you do it right and it’s not like a car is being driven on it! People always have to be negative but if it’s not for you, you have nothing to worry about! 🙄🤷🏻♀️
Without steel re-enforcement, how that survive from getting cracked?
Here for the “know it alls and humble opinions.”
Good job! But have my doubts on durability
Can I do this on a concrete floor that is not leveled? Would I need to put some sort of bonding agent? This is inside a shed so it’s not a problem of wetting the floor.
Also, would it need to be a certain thickness? How many bags of cement for a 19x24’ floor? TIA!
Do not do this.
@@lyricscann great idea, come to youtube comments section on a video about doing concrete the wrong way for all your construction questions. Jesus no wonder people think its a joke when someone says they learned how to do something on RUclips. Think about it for a min, does it even sound like that would be the right way to do it for a project that you want to last a long time?!
Is it really this simple?
No
If you want a slab that will last a year, yes. But if you want something permanent, this video is nowhere close to correct.
nice! buttt I notice you did not put a steel re mesh sheet. it wasn’t needed?
Would it not be cheaper to do a sand/cement mix instead of using pure cement?
The bags come with a mixture of rock gravel, sand and cement. Is also stronger than just cement and sand. This is probably the easiest route.
But a bag in Uk costs £10.
Last year I did a slab and mixed the cement before pouring it. This year I'll be trying this method because I want to extend the concrete. This method seems to be much more easier.
Don't do it.
It's not recommended to do it this way.
No rebar or wire reinforcement?
Its not a driveway.
Side walk doesnt need rebar or wire mesh. I'd be more worried that he dry poured it
lol. Rebar and wire mesh are the least of his worries. It’s a good thing he isn’t going to put anything substantial on this.
Mesh 😂😂 how about a pile of rocks and dust with a flimsy cement paint finish that will last 4 months 😢😂😂😂😂
@@camaroman101 yea lets stick wire and rebar in there, then we’ll really feel like professionals 😂
How do you know how much water to add when you use the shpwer setting?
Start with a light mist twice within 10 minutes and hose it down lightly. Request throughout the day. You'll be fine. I'm afraid to do it first, but hey, it works. Cajun Country got me started on the project, so check them out if you need more help. I'm doing it my way. Both of my sidewalks are awesome, and I have no complaints.
@@EvanPlayTimes thanks
I was afraid of turning it into mud.
If so good a result why not standard practice? Industry would develop a dry system use/delivery method to exploit this if feasible. It's more than that i know but dry is less than 100% a mix in that "container" causing spots of dry mix, use a vibrator?
Noticed how every negative comments here are either works in the construction of some sort related to cement/concrete or straight up concrete business owner/workers. This tells you a lot😂😂😂. $4K for that is crazy. I myself dry poured a triple garage I built 8yrs ago and still going strong! Way better than $20k!! It's also sealed with Epoxy for oil stains and spills just in case.
Question for you,I have some experience w/concrete mixing but not much...I see how the guy 'mists' the water for obvious reasons,allows it to harden / dry a bit,then repeats..but how do you know when the water has saturated enough completely through the dry concrete powder? At what point do you say "ok this is good enough an then remove the 2×4's? Is there a sure way to see its done for sure before u remove the wood?
@@dwade6322 this heavily depends on what brand of dry pour you are using really. The instruction is on evey bag you buy or on their website or youtube. So I can't say for sure. I used quickrete in my garage. If the instruction says mist it every 30mins per inch i'd go a head and do every 20mins instead. If its asking for 5 times, i'll do 6 or 7 times. Hard to really get it wrong. Dry pour is engineered for ease of use. I remove my frames after 3 days/72hrs and continues to heavily saturate it once every day. Do not touch or place anything heavy for another 7 days. Always use rebar or wire/mesh for strenght. Let the science do the work for you! Be careful when it's sunny day! You will need to saturate it more often than should. Wait 2 weeks then start building anything on it. Some people in youtube skipped the wait and still made great results. But this is how i mine in all of my projects.
@@marumarukira Ok,thank you!👍
@@dwade6322 your bag will tell you how much total water you should use from start to finish. anything after that is all up to you. If the bag says, you dont have to go further, thats up to you too. Again, its really hard to get this wrong. Everything thats listed in the instruction is more than enough and will give you great result! Wait time to build on it like pergola or gazebo is the hardest part😂😂😂
how much time in between water spray?
Usually an hour
@evanplaytimes did you use concrete ( the type you mix with sand to make wet concrete mix) or ready mix please?
You could get them at home depot. There's no mix require, just poured.
How often u need to water it ? How many times?
Pushing me like yeaszzz I can Thank you❤
I don't know why some people think this method isn't okay. I mean, I get it. People need to try for themselves first. It works.
I see you used an edger tool, did you use it while still in powder form or did you use after the first sprinkle session?
Don't ask . Dry pour 🫗 is a silly 😂thing
why didn't you mix the concrete?
How long between the watering?
I need this info too
1 hour between the first and second mist and 2 hours after the 2 mist and 1 hour between each showers and after the last shower let it set 24 hours
@@shermantarwater1826YOU SOUND LIKE TITO ORTIZ 😂
Dry concrete is way weaker than regular concrete, why the hell should i pick the weak option...
Nobody is telling you
Seems like this dry pour method is good for temporary projects.
Don’t trust the dry pour method, its just lazy, take the time to do the job right and you’ll be much happier. Your slab or post will start to chip and crack much sooner than if you just follow simple directions on a bag. This method is the definition of someone who says they don’t need to read directions. Do better guys cmon.
People are sick of corporate agendas. Break the rules the world is garbage. Experiment, at least history will have a record of our Experiments, that religious war dogs won't be able to erase.
You convinced me; that is what I will do early tomorrow morning.
Exactly this is the lazy way and will look like poo in a year
Rebar? Great job though
Can you do a longer video with more explanation or do you have one?
Wait so we can just lay stuff then wet it?
Its not recommended.
Thats perfect. Im always amazed how over engineered walkways are. Its for WALKING but you see pros use steel too! I had to remove a walking pad once and it took me a week bevause of that! This looked far far easier than mixing/pouring.
This can be done properly in a mixer or even hand mixed in a large bucket using sand ,cement and chippings at the correct ratio and it'l be solid within 24 hours , this videos way is not going to be as strong plus it takes ages
You can do it by layers too, you will be sure the middle will be wet too, every 2 inch you put, you wet and the final top layer you do like this video.
Good idea pre wet the bottom area with the gravel
This will never last
Especially without re bar, let alone not tying into the foundation. It’ll probably break down super easy come time to remove it, though! Lol
How u know
Please go prove ur theory
Yea it will last , 1 month .lol
@@reginaldwilliams3333it’s been proven time and time again. It’s a fact
Makes it look so easy 👍
Looks like it turned out good but id have still done a 4-2-1 mix ising 10mm stone.
I’m no expert but I did go to a civil engineering school and have a degree in it. There were classes focusing on concrete and strength of materials. I wonder why people mix concrete? It’s much easier to dry pour, why were we not taught this method? To summarize concrete has a chemical reaction with the water , sand, aggregate and Portland cement. Concrete can have many amendments added that strengthen and give it special properties such as steel rebar, fencing and nowadays ground metal shavings all to enhance strength of the concrete. There are also amendments that can alter the properties of the concrete for example cold weather. Concrete mixed properly will have most of its strength in the first 30 days thus the variable f subprime. This not mixing it up, and just dumping the Portland cement out is strange at best. I was in Mexico , deep In Mexico once in my life. They mix it using the volcano method. A volcano of Portland cement and the sand and the water, no wheelbarrow even. Five gallon pails to truck it to sight. It was throughly mixed though. Using shovels and hard labor. Skipping the mixing is much easier and attractive for that reason. It will not have the strength a proper mix would have. If it’s so wonderful why is it not standard practice in construction? There are reasons.
To get the 4000 psi the bag claims it will have to be properly mixed, that’s all I’m saying. No mix , no chemical reaction throughout. I’ve had bags harden from sitting in my shed , moisture came from the air and time. The half full bag hardened but was very brittle . I threw it out . lol
It looks good, but wont last long before it cracks and crumbles
You mean 3.5" thick... People forget nominal thickness on 2x4 is not 4" thick...
I love how people still think they know better than the manufacturer's instructions.
How is holding now?
Concretes works by chemical reaction with water. When you dry poor like this it is inherently weaker as not all of the concrete has reacted with the water and hardened
Just curious. Won't it all get reacted eventually because the water will be absorbed over time?
@@SnakePlantCollector no because it needs to react and harden together otherwise it will create a bunch or cracks and chips.
Youll never see a house or building slab done this way..this is for the homeowners projects that dont matter
No rebar will crack the pad, no?
How can that possibly work, why not just mix it properly in the 1st place?
Significantly more work (or cost if you hire it out)
To get the same quality finish takes a lot of skill with wet cement. (I am guessing, never saw dry cement "poured" before "in real life.") On a dry pour you can endlessly keep sweeping and smoothing till it looks perfect. No time limit before it sets up.
@@plethoraOFtrivia not really, you can buy a mixer at harbor freight or use a wheel barrow. An ugly job would be better than dry pour. It's very brittle and half the strength. You can literally break it apart with your fingers. It will look very old easily.
@@plethoraOFtriviaYou can get this finish in wet concrete with a broom and an edger. No hate to the video poster at all, im not trying to talk down about anyones work at all, and its good to see families working together and tackling things themselves. The fact is though that this finish is very sandy and will deteriorate quickly. It looks like something that was bull floated and broomed, meaning it doesnt take a lot of trowel work to get a finish like this. A handy person with a couple hand tools could probably get a finish that looks like this or better, with the benefit of a denser surface and a stronger slab overall. Again, not trying to be mean at all, just speaking from my experience of not only finishing but teaching people how to finish and seeing how these skills are picked up. Some things in concrete are very difficult and take a lot of skill. I wouldnt say this is one of them. A broom finished 3x5 pad like this is about the easiest starter project you can take on to learn basic skills
Only like half an inch will be dry the insides dry it's going to crack in the middle one day got to mit it with water
If it's not seen. Buried posts or back of garage pad id do dry. Heavy foot traffic I'm mixing. Do two projects and call in the minimum mixer load, probably 4 yds Search concrete and have the hole ready. Most drivers if you hand him an iced coffee will walk you thru or tell you before you fck up
It would have been less work to just mix it and pour it wet. That whole project is 45-60 minutes for one person.
How do you know if waterr will ever get into the thick of the slab?
Cement isn’t “water tight” without a specific sealant or coating on it so rain or hose water will seep through. It will just take a while.
Concrete bags inside a shed will set like a rock from the moisture in the air alone. I got 10 at home that I can barely use without bashing with a sledge hammer first. And concrete mix has dehydrated lime that socks in plenty of mousiture and they are flooding the slab with water as it soaks in. The only reason they mist the top first is to set the texture they want before heavy watering.
The lower part is still powder sf you cut the slab
Just came to see all the comments from “professional” laborers 😂
Oh right because they’re all pretenders and you’re the actual “pro” LOL.
It won't hold up to a car... But people walking on it? It should be okay. Though I don't know how well dry pour concrete will hold up in winter climates.
@@ikecreates😂
@@Andrew-ih2gzI thought when he pulled the boards it would fall powder come at the bottom 😃?
@@ronhanish there has been a few people who tested the dry pour vs wet pour methods. One even cut right through one to see how cured it got. The answer was pretty much as you'd expect. The cure was incomplete in the dry pour. While it did hold it's shape, it was overall brittle. They were able to chip away at it with their bare hands.
It'll hold up a person walking on it, but I'd never suggest putting anything over 800 lbs on it.
I thought you need sand and stone mixed so the cement binds together for strength
Wow, that looks so easy.
Looks easy but the result is garbage.
@@recrdholdr why? It looked pretty good in that video.
that feeling when you put out the wood.
That's what she said
It seems like the original way of wetting it first worked too well that it needed an alternative that is less effective
Thankyou
Awesome job on the walkway! 👍🙌
4 inch thick should have used some chicken wire or metal mesh but looks amazing.
2x4's rnt true 2inches by 4inches its 3 5/8inches by 1 3/4inches remember that when making forms
Why is that?
Dry pour if you want to but at least mix the top inch just a bit and smooth it out. It will look 10 times better
No rebar?
Looks great! I'm going to do the same.
Make sure you do a top layer of cement powder and sand, not the stuff with the gravel in it. When you screed it, the gravel won't cause an issue. Thank me later. I'm going to do a dry pour in the next few weeks
@@jakefriesenjake Thank you! I got this message after the fact. We tried our first paver. I noticed there was a lot of gravel even after screeding the Quikrete mix. My dry pour came out rough on top. My son and I will add mortar (cement and sand) on top tomorrow to smooth it out more. Hopefully it works. It was our 1st try.
@@YvetteR-ep2hc they make specialty concrete resurfacing concrete mix, probably be better off with that.
Also, look up "white washing" or "painting with portland". That is also a great way to make old concrete look alot better. Many options.
I did a small test sample using dry pour today. It's been like 8 hours already and it is not setting up nearly as good as I would like it too. Maybe it will be better in the morning
@@jakefriesenjake Hi! Thanks for all the advice. After much research, my son and I decided to try the Quikrete sand topping mix to fix our paver. It worked out well. Our paver is now smooth and looks so much better than before. It's totally trial and error. We are dong another paver tomorrow with Quikrete dry pour and we'll see how it turns out. We just have to remember to screed the surface better this time. Hopefully it won't give us the gravel results we had with the 1st one.
@@YvetteR-ep2hc nice. The sand topping Mix does have some very very tiny gravel in it, it's not pure sand and cement powder.
Looks good but won't last long , no mesh unmixed concrete
Do you know this by experience?
@@jgallegos8727 yep
@jasonoleg3253 No you don't
@@tibbytx1💀
@@jgallegos8727Ofcourse he does….40 years experience 😂😂😂😂😂
Это же цпс а не чистый цемент, на упаковке написано микс
What is yhe benefits of dry pour??
Zero benefits. It's a negative if anything
Will it last?
Hot take: if you are wasting time and money to make weak concrete for a foot path, just use paver stones
Buy a used mixer.
Dump mix into mixer.
Add water.
Pour.
Level.
Finish.
Good job.
No shortcuts.
Do it properly.
Will do this soon...unfortunately im in Washington state lol
Then you can skip the watering in part. Nature will do it for you!
Don’t waste your time. You’ll be doing the job over again once it starts breaking apart.
Dude as if dry pouring isn't already bad enough you didn't even put rebar on it. That thing gonna crack 100% not even year after you made it.
A lot of improvements have gone into the formulations since the requirement of rebar installation. Fiberglass for instance, and pea gravel might not be seen in the mixture. Also, how many overweight (eg earthmoving tractors) vehicles will be driving on it?
@@craigmatheson2736 it doesn't even need to have anything driving over it, dry pouring will always resulted in much much sooner cracking when the soil settled, temperature changes, and water freezing under or inside of the concrete.
Back in engineering schools we were thought how laughably bad dry poured concrete is compared to any wet poured concrete. Concrete need water to solidified, not just because you have to make it wet, the water inside the concrete literally become part of the concrete chemically and molecularly. All the water doesn't just evaporated when you think it's dry.
I dont know why everyone thinks this but 4 inch side walk doesnt need wire mesh or rebar. It will hold just fine it's just for walking on.
Wow dry I am so surprise
Bruh I give it like 6 months before your corners start chipping off
Surely you use more cement doing it this way
It’s weaker than a real pour, but if it’s just people walking on it all the time it will last for a long time. Now if you’re driving a car on it and parking a car… won’t last. But in this situation nothing wrong with it. 😂
I hope you didn’t have your child standing around while you opened that stuff up. Not trying to be annoying but that stuff contains a lot of silica dust and can damage your lungs over time.
It’ll take more time removing it later than mixing it now
Look at you! Amazing job
It's easy. At first, I thought it wouldn't work, but I did it, and it still stands strong. I will give an update soon for those who are afraid to try or think that it will crack or be a joke. The professional gave me an estimated $4000 to do the project, but I risked it, and it worked out great. You have to be patient and add design on the edges before watering it down.
Looks great.
😂😂😂😂😂😂 No words.
Just watched a few vids and the wet is stronger for sure.
Thank you.
Did you try it yet?
i mean yea for foot traffic... i would not build on that.