Dry Pour Concrete - GOOD or BAD?
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- Опубликовано: 9 фев 2025
- In this video I will explore this new technique called Dry Pour Concrete. I want to find out for myself if it's good or bad. I will reference a RUclips channel called Cajun Country Livin' and use their technique as a good starting point. I hope we learn something together in this one so lets enjoy it together!
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PRODUCTS AND TOOLS I USED:
-80lbs Quikrete
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-Quikrete All Purpose Gravel
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-Milwakee 18v Drill
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-Mixing Paddle
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FILMING EQUIPMENT I USE:
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Instagram: @michaelbuilds313
Michael Builds
47526 Clipper St.
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Plymouth Mi. 48170
I've used the dry pour method on small projects for years. I would suggest you soak the ground the night before, so your concrete can also pull moisture from the bottom.
Me too I've done it before because even the bag says you can do it. I didn't know you're supposed to let it cure for so many days, I let it cure for like 2 days and used it, and had no issues. Oops lol
100% wet the ground first, I do that even when I pour a wet mix, personally I have only ever used dry cement dust raked into dirt as a bonding agent, would be interesting buying raw material and mixing it yourself, Im thinking on larger projects that have costs about $100 it must be a lot cheaper.
So what if you want a vapor barrier?
@@banjeauvi7321 vapor barrier outside? lol
@@FocusWithin 😂
Tiny hint as a former concrete layer and finisher, lay them bags down, slice the middle of the bag, flip and dump. The mix just comes out of the bag with much less effort than cutting the end of the bag and shaking it out. My back was hurting just watching you dump them bags the hard way.
That’s a really good tip! I’m going to do another dry pour next month to build a Lean Too on top of it. I’m definitely using your tip next time lol
Yes.
Cut middle. Short side.
@@IronForgedUnderPressure yeah, you're correct, 98% of the time. But we do use bags to mix mortar in our personally owned mortar mixer, and occasionally use that to mix a couple bags to replace a pad outback of a house or something. You think you call a truck for 2 bags worth of concrete? Absolutely not my man.
Make one slab dry and another mix the cement the right way , and see the difference. I bet the mix is a lot stronger. The dry cement won’t last . Put a water pressure on each . and see the difference.
@@IronForgedUnderPressure "Dude" there are concrete/cement finishers and then there are brick layers. The two shall never be the same.
Hi Mr.Michael! Jim & Lydia here from Cajun Country Livin’. 🐊 Congrats on your dry pour! It looks great.. other than pulling the forms up early. 🫣 lol. You did a great job! So glad you put our method to the test. We are doing a testing video also in a few weeks with one of ours, so we can’t wait to see how they compare. Also, good idea to wait the 30 days to cure since it’s not mixed with water, letting the concrete have the full curing time is essential, we believe. Keep up the great work & your shed is beautiful!
You guys freakin' rock. Y'all sent him some love and I'm here for it. Both channels are awesome and I adore both of them. Thanks for being awesome human beings ❤❤❤❤
I'm planning several dry pours this year. You guys rock.
I love your channel... thanks for chiming in here!
Any advice on doing a dry pour where it freezes?
I have been watching you all for years...the slab of your house. I think all the attention you are getting from the dry concrete has put you in the fast lane. This is not the only one. Congrats. You deserve it!
AHHHHHH! I’M SO HAPPY YOU GUYS COMMENTED ON MY VIDEO!!! 😊
I’m so glad you liked it! I love these kinds of projects and different ways of doing things. Thank you for the shed comment! It’s my pride and joy. I’m building a Lean Too on the other side this summer and I’m pretty sure I’ll be Dry Pouring the base HaHa. You guys are both GREAT and I can’t wait to see your next video!
The amount of work it takes to mix 10 or so bags of concrete can't be overstated. This is immensely easier.
Totally agree!
I can mix ten bags in 90 minutes , no big deal
@@TheFrameoff Yeah, but this method is MUCH easier to flatten out and finish! Flattening out (essentially) sand versus thick concrete is not even comparable.
It is easier, more time consuming and basically a compacted dirt pad.
There is a science that studies materials. And a reason why water is used. There is even different amounts of water per temperature to get strong concrete. The reason you go for concrete.
@@TheFrameoffthat’s an hour and a half you could spend doing something else. So yea, a lot easier doing dry pour.
We have been doing this for decades to create cement bottom in cattle water troughs. Dry pour cement then fill trough with 2 feet of water. Works every time. Great video.
Thank You. I was thinking could that be done!
So are you saying no misting just pour the water & let it cure then pour out left over water?
@@hissonshinegirl when i went though Army Engineer course years ago, they showed us concrete would harden under water. its a chemical process.
not sure you would get result your looking for by flooding and draining. ie, perfectly flat level floor.
@NONAS you want to mist it to get a hard outer shell before you pour on the water. It would still work if you just pour right away, but it wouldn't keep its shape as well.
What you did is not what they are doing on many of these RUclips channels. By putting in 2 feet of water, that cement gets fully wet and stays wet allowing the cement to keep curing (it is a good method). - The Dry Pour, DIY are spraying water on the slab 6 to 10 time during a days time. The slab's top surface does get hard and it looks fine, but the bottom 2/3 of the slab never gets enough water to cure properly. The result is crap and less that 1/3 of normal concrete strength. I have seen some of those slabs with the under half just crumble with strong hand pressure.
Thank you for providing useful information and a practical education for DIYers like me. For years I’ve been trying to figure out how to address a crappy looking delaminated pool deck and some flooding issues from a concrete patchwork slab that angles towards the house. I’ve had concrete guys out here with quotes ranging from 4k to 30k. I just happened upon your channel today and validated some of my ideas of how to proceed. Thank goodness for people who share info that HELPS PEOPLE instead of lording over homeowners and treat us like we’re stupid.
I saw their video too. Couldn't believe it, but the proof was there. I'm a lifelong concrete guy too just like you... Total skeptic, but somehow intrigued. I don't have any concrete projects forthcoming, but I sure am looking for one now- especially after watching your video. You just proved that it wasn't just a one-off beginners luck kind of thing that they did.
Oh, and I can't believe you popped those forms that same night. You totally know better!
On a total side note. I used to take care of a building that housed a retired materials testing engineer. He told me that once you initiate the setting action of concrete by adding water... it gets continually harder for 28 YEARS!
Liked the video, thanks for sharing!
Yeah, but he's not using concrete, he said he was using just straight Portland cement, which isn't the same as concrete or mortar. But I've been told that very same thing about concrete. And I believe it! Just wonder if it's the same for just cement? I'd have to think it would be the same?
@@jodigurl72 Michael is using concrete you can see on the bags. It’s the standard stuff on pallets at Home Depot.
The Portland cement is the magic that reacts to the water, so I assume it would harden pretty much indefinitely, although concrete does the bulk of its hardening in the first month.
I'm glad you did this video! I seen a tiktok showing people just using bags of concrete for a retaining wall. Everyone said that's OK till the bags wash away and it just pours all over. So I set a bag of concrete on my patio near the edge so it would get wet but not rained on directly. I forgot about it and noticed it a week later and it was rock hard! I threw it out in the yard to watch it break in half and didn't! I had heard of people dry pouring fence posts but wondered this very thing. Then ADHD kicked in and I was making other stuff! Lol! Good video my friend!
The army corp of engineers built retaining walls along river banks using the bagged concrete method many decades ago, and they still remain. You can probably find info on them if you google. Those retaining walls and concrete will have similar issues to any other:
1. They need a drainage system to reduce hydrostatic pressure from behind. This is usually achieved by excavating at least 4” wider than the wall will be and filling from behind with gravel and possibly a geotextile fabric layer to separate the soil from the gravel. Periodically, the wall needs weep holes to allow the accumulated water to escape.
2. The bags of concrete need to be connected together. Otherwise, the paper layer becomes a weakened plane along which the wall will fail. Connecting the bags can be achieved by pounding a length of rebar through multiple layers, and cross tieing those rebar to horizontal rebar layer on top of a row of bags.
My wife and I did a front patio 5 feet wide by 30 feet in dry concrete and it came out fine
5:23 I did this last night. Worked great, except I waited about 20 mins after the first misting to trowel the edges … perfect results.
We watched the same Cajun Country Living video, and on March 26th, we did a dry pour for our outdoor shower. It turned out absolutely amazing. So glad we did a dry pour. It only took us an hour from frame to first mist. We have a drain running through it and everything. We kept the form on for 2 days after and it is perfect.
That’s Awesome! I’m definitely going to keep the form on longer next time lol 😂
First time on your channel, but a big thumbs up, and you have a subscriber for life! I really like when 2 content creators not only test each other, comment to each other, and do it so cordially! I have a ton of respect for both your channels!👍🏻👍🏻
THANK YOU SO MUCH! And welcome to the channel! 👍🏻☺️
I got recommended your video because I watched Cajun Country Livin' I'm sure. I appreciate that you are independently, and unbiasedly testing their methodology out. Good production quality, probably wouldn't have found your channel and poked around without this video. Keep up the great work and good attitude brother!
THANK YOU SO MUCH! 🙏☺️👍🏻
I actually found your channel because of thete channel. Because i had just seen the video you just stated in this one. Much respect for you sir. The way you handle it and instead of talking bad about how they did it you tested it for yourself and talkikg nothing but good about them. Subscribed.
I did a dry stack (full bags with rebar driven through) retaining wall on a slope so I could flatten the downhill section for an on-ground pool. It worked perfectly and is as hard as any pour 20 years later. Dry stack is an old and reliable technique, but may not pass many building codes. For the pro's that talk about inadequate mix, that is hogwash. The concrete in the bag is "mixed" going into the bag and doesn't settle or separate while sitting in a bag unless that bag is *seriously* vibrated.
Brilliant! How did you make sure the water seeped down to the bottom bags?
Would it work if you set the bags on the bag’s long side with the rebar to hold them upright for a low retaining wall? Maybe sandwich them between plywood sheets to maintain form?
Doesn't have to settle in the bag, when you pour it out and rake it, you are agitating it. Not really concerned about it too much though as the aggregate is pretty small in those bags.
@@Asti.sayAhstee dry stack hardens over time just from humidity and rain. The method is also used in shore bulkheads above and below the waterline
@@Asti.sayAhstee Portland cement is highly hygroscopic and will suck water out of the ground and the air, though it takes 2-3 weeks. In dry weather, it's a good idea to wet the soil or gravel a bit before pouring.
I've dry poured my fence post every time. I just redid our fence and had to pull out the old posts from 20 years ago. solid as a rock.
I've been waiting to hear someone who I actually trust talk about this for light concrete forms.
Michael is one of those people 👍
I saw one of your first videos about five years ago. Used your technique to make an incredible bar. Changed my life really - years of enjoyment since. Thanks so much!
You just made my day! THANK YOU SO MUCH!
I built two retaining walls with 40 lb bags that worked super well. Looks rustic. One section was about 100 ft long 3 ft high. Took about 45 minutes to place with 5 teenagers. Drove some 8 inch pole barn nails in. Backfilled several weeks later. Took about a year for the paper to rot off. Never wet it. Just let natural rain dampen over time. Spent a lot on concrete bags which I more than saved on labor and form up.
Any pictures? Sounds unique.
@@IL_Bgentyl I could email some if you like. Not sure how to post here.
@barbaralee1205 are you saying you just stacked the bags over 100 ft x 3ft high, and left them to cure? I'm surprised it really cured in the middle but am intrigued at the method. Where did you place the 8" pole barn nails? (Every bag got a nail? What?) Thanks. I realize you posted this 7 months ago. How's the retaining wall faring?
@@rwind656 the walls are hard as, well, cement 😁. Once the paper rots off there may be some cracking and minor breakage of the top layer but for the most part it all looks sturdy. I put two barn nails per bag. This locks each bag to the one below. I had my best wall where we perforated the bag tops with tiny holes and wet the bags with a hose. As we went. If it rained, all the better. Remember this 40 lb quickrete is for post holes so it’s meant to be added dry. The look is “rustic”. I like it but not everyone would. I’m doing a short two bag wall around the front edge of my cow barn today as chance would have it to level the ground so we can add gravel and stop the mad muddy mess the cow makes at her door. My 17 year old yard boy is going to do it. Quick, easy , permanent and not ugly. Maybe not the cheapest but what you spend in materials you save in labor and time.
@@IL_Bgentyl yes but how do I send pictures?
Dry concrete around my house it is. Thank you so much!!
Watching that husky little fella with a little weight on him trying to crack the concrete is why I subbed 😂
LOL 😂🤣
@@MichaelBuilds nice work! Definitely interested in the center and if there's dry spots when you crack it open.
I'm still planning on doing it either way 🤣
"I like the way this border looks" THANK YOU. So do I.
Dry pours are widely used in the UK and Ireland where the ground, sand and air is often damp. They are standard practice for natural stone patios where the suction produced by wet mortar makes it difficult to manoeuvre heavy pavers. I sometimes use a dry pour in garden projects and finish with a sloppy mix to ensure a smooth finish.
Can I ask how thick you would be making paving slabs and also how long you have had them without cracking or corners breaking of etc?
Holy shit, 2:13 in to this video and its quality is way higher than so much of the flashy crap I see on RUclips. Super solid writing and great transitions, I'm invested!
After the second misting, flood the trench outside of the forms. The water will seep under the forms and cure the edges faster. And use a #3 or #4 rebar ring about 4-5 inches in from the edges and wire mesh in the center.
Doing a dry pour for setting pavers is also a tip. In Florida, the land of endless soil moisture, I just wet the top for 'cling'. I then covered it with blocks and a plastic tarp to keep the available moisture in the confines of the grid I had laid. I'd soak it a bit when I felt like it for maybe a week.
I sold the house many years later and those pavers looked great.
😂 I know it works . I unintentionally left two 90 pound bags of concrete outside . I've been driving on them the past 12 years to change the oil in my truck.😂
Funny, I did the same about 3 years ago and both “bags” still solid like a rock!!!
I had two bags INSIDE my garage in South Carolina waiting for a project and they hardened from humidity alone.
@@JohnHansknechtsame. South Florida garage. Huuuuumid.
@@JohnHansknecht : Sounds like you need to get your concrete in plastic bags instead of paper.
Tells everyone how lazy you are you keep driving over something before you would lift it out of the way
You really didn't know about this. I help a guy dry pour a foundation in a old barn doing this. That was about 30 yrs ago. I did this to level my ground for workshop. I dry stacked cinder blocks with metal reinforcement, then dry poured the concrete in the cavities. After a months I backfilled with dirt to level out the slope. The floor for the workshop was traditional wet pour. That was 8 years ago. Love you videos. Keep it up.
Also, I did retention walls with bags of quik-crete and rebar at a lake. Works great. Stack the bags, then drive rebar through the bags to pin them together. We may have also laid rebar horizontally but I cannot remember.
Looking forward to follow up as to what profile of splitting slab open looks like.
Also would be interesting to know how outside perimeter would hold a redhead concrete anchor bolt say where the outside wall of a shed would be
That’s actually a great frickin idea! I could do several tests like that on it! Nice. THANK YOU!
Don't quote me on this but believe it was put in bags like that for military use back on wwii. I do know that is how drywall was developed I have seen you tube videos of guys stacking the bags in place to make a wall . They do not even take it out of the bag. Just stack a d then turn the sprinkler on it ...the paper eventually erodes away and you are left. With a nice looking concrete block retaing wall. I have a retaing wall that fell over. I have to remove the bricks, dig out all the dirt to grade. Reset the blocks snd backfill. They used no rebar at all and not even a footer. Yeeesh!!!
@@MichaelBuilds I thought for sure you were going to do some tests to it. Look forward to seeing that video.
@MichaelBuilds also, how do you deal with frost heave... they don't have that issue.
The comments on their video has suggestions, but IDK if they're realistic or not. Like place black plastic down under pour to solve heaving... 🤔
I am thinking putting bolts head side down in the dry pour ??.. maybe lay a 2x4 with the bolts in place to keep every aligned ?
No drilling afterwards? Or am I missing something?
I follow the cajuns, they seem to do things out of the box, and since they are non-pros, it is easier for common folk to see beyond the "engineering" ... thanks for supporting them, and have a great day!!
I suspect that like with dry pour fence posts, there will be dry pockets that weaken it. I’d like to see how it’s holding up in 5 years. Would be interesting to have a dry pour right next to a wet one, and then do a strength test
When you dry pour a post, tamp the dry concrete as you fill up the hole while being sure the post is plumb. You can add a little water as you go. Fill to about 2 inches from grade and then top with soil and soak the soil with water. If the post is a hollow pipe, pour some water inside the post too. If a hollow post, you can fill it with concrete too!
Quite a big difference in the depth of concrete between a hole and a flat slab
I love when people do that, makes it 10x easier to pull out when they eventually rot.
There's interesting research coming out regarding ancient Roman concrete where their "poor" mixing and grinding back then is what actually has led to its long-lasting nature. As it cracks over time, water seeps into those cracks and you get reactions again that basically make the concrete some level of self-healing because it leeches back into the cracks and seals them.
@@RadzPrower also they added quicklime..
Great video!!! I can tell you, I widened a pool deck this way over a year ago, and it’s just fine! It was 8’ x 30’ and I even threw in broken pavers, tile from a bathroom tear out, rocks, you name it! It takes way more bags than you think, and for foot traffic it’s just fine! I skim coated it with bags of sand mix, with the consistency of of soup for a beautiful finish. I had my doubts about the sand mix bonding and cracking, however you would never know it was done this way…. Like the man said, concrete guys would have a stroke hearing this, but it works! It makes doing it yourself easy…I did mine in layers over a period time, because it took way more bags than I thought it would… I would just pick up 10 or 12 bags here and there and come home and dump it, spread it with a rake, and leave it rough for the next layer, until the final finish of wet soup that flows! Well done Sir!!!……. Not recommended for vehicles, or heavy machinery…..
Great video. Kudos to you giving Cajun Country Living props for their dry pouring abilities. It's nice to see 2 entities work together as one...👏👊💥😊
I'm so grateful, cause I want to pour a little walk in my yard with a plastic form, and the thought of mixing the concrete made me put it off. Now I'll try this, as it's just little about 2' by 2' plastic forms that I think will take well to this. Oh, the joys of living with next door neighbors. My son has a Miniature Pincher and she was taught not to bark, it can be done.
Perfection and crash in their finest moments. This was so great. Thanks.
Thank you so much! AND WELCOME TO MY PATREON ROB!!!!
Hey Micheal, I live in Britain and I have watched the Cajun video and yours, and had a snigger as I have been doing that for years, in fact right up yo my retirement, and not only for porch or just steps, but for drive ways garage bases and footings, although the last three are reinforced as to British standards, they have lasted for years, so go ahead and put your truck on it, even I would like to see the outcome of that video, so good job
If a lot of evaporation is expected, warm weather, then it is preferable to cover the concrete with a plastic film, otherwise the concrete may wither rather than harden and the surface will be loose. In the case of dry application of concrete, one should be careful with excessive surface soaking, because the cement may wash out and the surface will remain without binders and will be loose.
Considering your experience in the concrete business, I am more impressed you didn't try to make it fail.
My thoughts about dry pour concrete; it’s amazing what you can get away with in warm climates in regards to Concrete. I would like to see some proper cylinder break tests done. Not that it matters for a DIY project most the time that’s probably strong enough if your base is good, but it would just be interesting to see.
Well, now I know how to do a garbage can pad for the side of the house without backbreaking concrete mixing! That’s so awesome =)
Seems like this would be fine for foot-traffuc outdoors (where it can continue to draw moisture). Looking forward to the follow-up videos... and more chainsawing from your neighbor. 👍
Hahaha 😝
Hi Michael, I'm a fan of your content! I'm based in the UK and just started creating my own videos. I watched your latest video from start to finish, and I must say, I'm thoroughly impressed. It's amazing how even a small task like this can generate so much attention-it's both fun and entertaining!
I wanted to share a tip I came across today. I've been researching how to create RUclips videos, and I stumbled upon a suggestion from someone much more experienced than me. They recommended snapping your fingers every time you need to repeat a sentence. It supposedly makes the editing process smoother and faster. I thought I'd pass it along; hopefully, it doesn't bother you. Keep up the great work!
Takes weeks longer to fully cure, but is almost as strong as poured concrete. Many years ago, we used to dry-pour patio cover posts. Occasionally, we had to pull a post out, and the concrete was hard to break even with a sledgehammer.
Three years ago we dry poured posts for a fence, then two years later, we decided to remove one of the posts to make a wider gate and had to dig out the concrete and 4 x 4" post. The cement around the post was rock solid so I know the pad that these guys have done will be solid too.
The idea of concrete is to dry mix all the ingredients, sand, gravel and cement, then add water and mix and pour. Your idea is good and it is widely used in Germany to make autobahns. Just dry mix it first, fill your mould, prepare the edges etc, then wet it down, simple.
Awesome video. Just did my own dry pour project a couple of weeks ago based on that video by Cajun Country Livin', and I'm somewhat obsessed with these dry pour videos now.
Needed a 25x11x4 concrete pad for a dog kennel and eventually a storage building. I decided to leave the form on for aesthetic purpose. Formed it out in pressure treated 2x6 with a roughly 2 inch rock base and remesh for reinforcement. Didn't have a large float with a long handle for surfacing purposes, but I wanted it rough surfaced anyway. I just used a long 2x4 to screed as I went, and cut the joints into the dry concrete with a hand tool. The wetting pattern you described was exactly how I approached it, too.
It came out great! Everyone thought I was crazy for dry pouring, but they all changed their tune once they saw the result! Also, I feel like it's even harder than a traditional mix and pour, or at least that's how it seemed when I was drilling holes for the anchoring bolts, anyway...
Can you set those bolts b4 you add water?
@@leahrowe847 To be honest, I’m not sure. I wasn’t expecting quite so much trouble drilling it after, so I didn’t think to try it. Sorry. I wish I could give you a definite answer.
Drilling into it after wasn’t completely unmanageable, though. Just took some patience and turned what should have been a 20 minute task into about a 40 minute task.
@@leahrowe847 I was thinking the same thing. Would make a good experiment fort the youtube laboratory!
@robfox2263 well, at least we all know it sets hard. LOL
If you didn't use a hammer drill this time, I'd suggest using one next time you need to drill into concrete or brick. I had a cinder block wall we needed to drill & screw into, so we bought one of those hammer drills, & I couldn't believe the difference between that & an impact driver, which has tons of power & torque.
@@leahrowe847 @rob fox, where are you located? Like, Eastern WI, Souther Florida, etc... and what drill and bit were you using? Was it a rotary hammer drill or a regular drill with a cheap masonry bit? thanks
I build stone walls. I do dry pours for the footing/foundation.
I do rebarb reinforcing. I use high-pressure concrete because of the weight of the stone. Dry pour has never ever failed me. I water just like you did. If it's hot, I cover it with harbor frieght moving plankets to reduce the evaporation.
Great video.
I was gonna try this with my fence post, good to hear that it works for shed foundations too
I did a 12x28 dry pour...slight problem with one corner and uneven in spots on the slab, but building my green house!
How many bags was that?
@@jtsays429
I didn't see the number of bags,? How many bags were used?
I'm going to do the same thing from a backyard patio slab 12x8
@@johnforeman9926 how many bags? you didn't say in your reply
@@honuswagner9348 96 bags
I've done this a couple times - my method is "leave the bag out in a damp shed with a leak for a couple months. Totally works. I have a bag-shaped block that is absolutely solid.🙄
Great video. Looking forward to the follow-up to see how this holds up. From stepping stones to some sidewalk work, I've got several small projects that would be a bit simpler for me with this method.
Seriously so many videos could be made from this subject!
@@MichaelBuilds I have to admit, I laughed pretty damn hard when you jumped the gun on that frame and the corner caved. 😂 My husband has done that exact same thing. Rumor has it, that edge is STILL crumbled to this day. 🙃
Leah - Heaving isn’t a significant factor for a slab unless it’s tied into the structure. Sidewalks, patios, etc all over the northern are poured on grade with no ill effects. If it’s going to be structural, then you have to be below the frostline, which could be 2-4’ deep, but that’s a completely different situation and not recommended for a dry pour.
@@johnlee7085 so if you're abutting your slab up next to the house & an existing slab, do you worry about the frost then?
Sorry, but it's hard to find answers.
We're basically adding 3-6 feet width & 10 feet length onto an existing slab. We definitely live in the great NW, so freezing is an issue.
Thanks in advance for your help... 😃
I'm glad to see people recognizing how good your content is
I'll beat you to the follow up video. When it comes to little jobs like this that really won't see any stress, dry pour works. I've tried removing a 4" slab dry pour I did years ago and it was as much back breaking work as any wet pour slab and I could not tell the difference.
That’s good to hear. That gives me some foresight to what I’ll be walking into when I get there haha
As an artist figured this out on my own great for patch work .or restoration glad to see in not alone
It will test out as far weaker and less resistant to effects of freeze-thaw cycles, especially when someone might use salt or other ice melt chemical.
Agitation is needed for proper bonding of cement with aggregate. This has been known for a very long time. Typicaly there is a small range of turn count acceptable for batch load concrete delivered by mixer truck. It matters enough to be in the engineer's specifications for roads and bridges.
I did this after watching CCL. I was worried about how much weight it could handle. Then about 5 days after pulling the forms, I had my friends son driving my zero turn picking up rocks. He drove right over the slab. Now I know the slab will take the weight of the zero turn with no problem.
That is so awesome to hear! Because I gotta say… I’m so worried and nervous about driving my truck on this thing and having it crush on camera lol 😂.
So hearing experiences like yours is very encouraging 👍🏻. Thank you so much!
I’m so happy you did this! I watched their video too and have been so excited because it means I can pour a patio myself in manageable sections. I’m getting old-ish & with my health crap, no way I’m able to mix & pour cement. To keep independent sections in place, can I put in rebar with half in the slab & pour the next slab over the rebar half that’s sticking out? I know I’d need to notch out the form so it can be lifted off the rebar.
BTW Michael, in case you remember me from when you first launched yr channel, I haven’t abandoned you but have been watching using my other account. Also, you jumping around on that slab is as entertaining as when you were swinging on that rope in yr shed! 😂🤣😂 I still think you’re cute as a button! ❤
Hi Roxy, I am in my 50's and not in the sturdiest of physical health either. I am proud to say that I just did an 8'x8'x4" dry pour of the concrete patio (will eventually expand it to 16'x16') that I wanted in my back yard for the past 4 years. Started and finished it yesterday! It was amazingly easy in comparison to lifting a 60lb bag up into a mixer and then trying to pour it wet and heavy, into a wheel barrel and then lugging it over to a form, to then spread it out without everything drying before I even got done.
The hardest part the entire dry pour project was leveling all the sides of the form and then leveling the dry concrete. I eventually figured out that I needed to over fill the form to be able to level the concrete. Got that done before it started to drizzle mid afternoon. Because of course it had to rain, on the one day that I am trying to do a concrete project. Sighs.
Over all it was a 1 day project. Started at 8a to build the form and got my pallet delivery at 9:30a, filled the form with 39 60lb premixed concrete bags by lunchtime, laid them down side by side (taking a lot of breaks) and then cut the bags and spread the dry concrete around with my rake. Then used a 2"x4"x10' to make it level, then I just spent the afternoon spraying it down gently. I was done by about 3p and covered it with a tarp, because of the rain starting. I checked it this morning and did the same walking/jumping test we just saw from Michael. The only thing that went wrong on mine was that it was not a quick formula. So the tarp touched 2 corners and made them a little rougher texture than I expected. Otherwise it seems perfect. I will be leaving the form around the outside of the slab for at least a week (just to make sure the concrete cures, despite the rain) before I try to see if the extra water being soaked up from the ground caused any issues. Good luck with your patio!
@@yverocks64 Good for you! More folks need to know about this method. I also need to do my back sidewalk that is falling apart and over the years the lawn lawn has built up to be about 4" higher than the walk. Thanks so much for the tips and encouragement!
@@RoxyAnny..8b I’ve never done dry pour but if I understand correctly you want one half of the slab done with rebar extending out past it, through a hole in the form. Once cured you remove the form and then create the second slab with the rebar connecting them?
That will work, but remember if not done in the same pour 100% chance the two slabs do not “glue” together, so you’ll have a cold joint between them. Meaning…you’ll see a thin crack, but the rebar will keep them from separating meaningfully. Large slabs should have control joints cut in them anyway because a large slab will inevitably crack, so the joints are a sacrificial line in which to do that.
great video! so, last year I did a dry pour for an overhang next to my pole barn. it wasn't small, 10'x60' WITH rebar at 6~" thick. 12 skids of 80# bags from good ole home depot. held up for the last year un covered with the freeze/thaw of Michigan weather, just installed my overhang/lean-to a couple weeks ago, I park my f350 DRW and tym 574 tractor on it and has never cracked yet. only spent roughly $2200 on just concrete, I was quoted $10k if I were to hire it out.
I also stacked bags along the bank of my river, about 10' tall and 1300' of length, fast running water and floods a few times a year. that has held up 10 years now. my river bank was eroding pretty badly and unfortunately this was the cheapest and quickest fix, but I honestly love it.
I definitely want to see the inside.
I wonder if it has the advantage the poorly mixed Roman concrete had in terms of having dry nodules inside that make it self heal once a crack develops and moisture gets inside.
🤯
no concrete is self healing lol , if you dont mix it will be weak 20 min of mixing time to reach full mpa
I think this guy should have millions of subs and don't know why he doesn't!
Their video was the first time I seen dry pouring. I loved the idea cause if you ever mixed 30+ 80lbs bags by hand before by your self you know how much it sucks lol. But I wanted to see more testing on it. Like to see some good weight applied to it and wouldn't mind seeing the inside after a while. Can't wait to see your next video on this.
I mixed 100 bags of those last year by myself for a fence, wasn't good for my back that's for sure.
Bro. You are super good at this RUclips stuff ... Excellent in every way. Don't ever give up.
Long time fan! I think this is my first comment. I will be watching for the strength test, I'm really curious how it will come out. Doing a dry pour just seems to defy logic. If it is successful it could make smaller jobs so much less labor intensive. Pro tip my grandpa used to use on his concrete projects when my dad was a kid. Line the top of the concrete with burlap bags (or something similar now) and keep them wet. It will help slow the curing process and might help the concrete soak up more water.
Thank you. This technique seems like something I could handle for a walkway in my side yard. I'll wait to see what it looks like when you crack it open, though. I'm looking forward to the follow up video.
I saw their video too. I never thought of dry pouring but don't know why it wouldn't work. I know that I had 4 bags in my basement for a project and the humidity down their turned them into bag shaped bricks. I even tried to break them so they would be easier to move and they were hard as heck (in my life I've broken a lot of concrete with a sledge hammer and they didn't break). I used to dry pour concrete around deck posts and let the moisture from the ground set the mix, that always worked great.
The difference between a dry pour and a mix build will be that the mix is structurally stronger. By a large margin is my guess. When something is a liquid it's already compacted in on itself. When something is a powder, there's a LOT of gaps between particles
Dry pour is basically "Air Crete" to a lesser degree
If that works for you and you don't need the full PSI strength of a wet pour and the dry method is more convenient for you, i don't see why you wouldn't do it
@@wikimon Your cement to water ratio will be quite low on the dry mix, so your strength would likely end up being quite a bit higher provided you get consistent moisture throughout so everything could cure at the same time. Though with this technique, you'll have an outer crust cure, followed by the inside at another point causing a cold joint between the layers. Probably nothing you'll ever notice if it's just a sidewalk and you're not experience a lot of freeze / thaw cycles.
I left 2 bag of Portland cement in the back of my truck that has a camper shell. I just pulled them out and thy are are rock solid.
What if you poured half of the dry material, sprayed it with water, and then filled the remainder of the dry pour? Since there’s concern about moisture making it to the center. It would be interesting to see tests of this “layer cake” method with varying thicknesses.
My thoughts exactly! Wondering how that might work??
I was thinking the same
I think you may risk having the top one shift on the lower onless you puyt in like verical dowels to keep the two slabs as one.
@@michaelminervini1908 not waiting for the layers to dry though… immediately adding a mist to the middle of a dry pour was the idea.
@@BrendanVanMeterIT DOESNT WORK OK… JUST MIX THE CONCRETE LIKE YOURE SUPPOSED TO! HOW HARD IS THAT TO COMPREHEND
MICHAEL, GREAT VIDEO, I DID CATCH THE VIDEO FROM CAJUN COUNTRY LIVIN' AND WAS VERY INTERESTED, BUT I CAN'T HELP TO THINK THAT THEY ARE IN THE SOUTH WITHOUT FROST LINES, I AM HERE IN MICHIGAN LIKE YOU, AND JUST CURIOUS ON THE STRENGTH AFTER SOME COLD WINTERS. KEEP UP THE GREAT WORK.
I am in NW Ohio, just outside Toledo... so not far from you guys (unless you're in the UP, lol). I think I'm going to tackle this... I wanted to build a shed last year but was getting absolutely INSANE crazy town pricing for a 12x16 slab! One dude wanted almost $2,000!!!! I said, "NOPE!".
I'm also worried about the frost line. I think, with a vapor barrier below and extended about 4 - 6 inches past the perimeter of the slab, and with rain water /drainage precautions taken during construction, I don't think the freeze/thaw problems will be present.
I just did a HUGE fire pit.. and I was worried about that as well. I did cover it up in November with a tarp before any real freezing began, but I just uncovered it yesterday and my 16x16 tiles did not heave at all! All I did was some heavy compacting paver base, a little bit of sand for leveling... and I didn't even get to the finishing stages of polymeric sand in the joints or landscape edging and spikes...
I also have seen bags left outside cure, and dry pour for posts, but I am really curious about a dry pour into a mold, like a pillar, pavers, or some kind of statue, or your countertops. So I am looking forward to you cracking this slab open to see what’s inside, and how much effort it takes.
Yeah, had a few half bags set themselves while stored inside over the years.
@@dannyboy8067 I HATE when that happens! Helped a neighbor straighten out his garage once; went to move an unopened bag of concrete and said "Nope; not without a dolly". It had set in the bag years ago (!)
I had some unopened 90 lbs bags left outside at the in Southern California weather. It did rain a few time . Many months later, the hardened and had to be thrown out. It was cure and hardened inside the bag
Bless your heart. Lol. You did great.
Been doing dry pour for many years and yes it works...
Thank you Melissa! ☺️
You ready for this…. We’re about to dry pour our pole barn 2000sq ft! With….. electric heating in the cement! We’re going to do a self leveling finish on top. Pray for us please!! 🙂🙏
How did it go?
Was it a success?
I already found the video before this one... I'm glad you approve... I plan on using this method now myself, I have to pour a Floor... Inside of an old shed of mine with only a dirt floor... Trying to get a concrete truck to it not going to happen, Then trying to Mix it and wheelbarrow it in and all the mess and hassle of trying to do that... The dirt floor is very stable I'm not going to even put down a gravel, It's been there probably at least a 100 years I'm not kidding... I realistically don't want it thick, they didn't use thick in their video, and it not going to have a lot of weight on it, like 250Lb/sqft at the most... So I plain now on doing a dry pour, and using the old time 2×4 sill plate of the wall as the form to follow.
Curious to see the slab cracked open, but I recon it will be solid all the way through.
I had purchased 20 80lbs Type N Mortar 80lbs bags extra and had to put them outside to return. It rained hard that day and I could not move the bags. I waited but the rain kept on for days, so a few years later the bags had completely disappeared and I was left with 20 80lbs bag-shaped lumps that were just crumbling and falling apart because they were dry and not mixed. What happened to these sitting without mixing is that internal water paths and gaps stayed and during winter that water froze and split them apart into smaller rocks. Therefore please do not dry pour unless you don't care about pouring money out of your wallet. The base will crack and split during winter.
The cajun country living video did use reinforcement...at least the one I saw...they had a wire mesh about halfway through the dry mix...
Still enjoy your channel so now I have 2 channels to watch & enjoy. I enjoy the way you made brick wall without bricks & the concrete projects.
That's so cool! How deep can you make it? I'd like to do raised garden beds to a depth of 12 inches. Love your videos!
@@jenkor513 thanks!!
@@jenkor513not sure about that. I have have closed concrete bags in my garage that got rock hard from sitting for months. I live in Florida so some how moisture got into the bags.
Thanks for this vid, i needed a skeptic to test it first, I am going forward with a small dry pour 👍🏼
i have been debating making a patio like this ever since i saw the first few videos like this come out, i am so curious what the inside of this looks like
This was pretty cool! Happy Easter my friend! Love the little blooper reel at the end haha.
Lol 😂 omg thank you so much for stickin with it that far in lol 😂
Do you live in an area where you have to worry about the frost line? I'm curious to see how a dry pour would hold up in the winter where temps get into the teens or lower.
Excellent question... I'm curious about frost heave too. On their channel people in the comments addressed this, but IDK if what they say is good advice 🤔
@@leahrowe847 I was curious as well, especially since I am just outside Toledo, OH (NW Ohio) and we have some frigid winters and hellish heat summers. I think this guy is a little further North in Plymouth, MI... but not sure if that is where his video's take place.
Dry concrete pours have a naturally longer cure time that have been proven statistically. My dad taught me that. But due to time constraints (contractors) dry pouring concrete fell out of the norm. Now it's controlled by the mix type/formula.
Also dry pour can have abit of a "self-healing" factor since the interior stays dryer longer and slowly hardens over time as micro fractures occur allowing moisture to enter.
Time vs Need.
I watched that video a few weeks ago as well. I thought the same thing about the border looking pretty cool like that. That's how I want to do it as well.
Heck yeah!
I love captn crock (Jim) and Lydia show as much as watching yours.
Its the thinking outside of the box that intrigs me.
I built an 8x10 concrete and rock storm shelter with concrete roof. The walls are solid 8 inch concrete with rock face all around. Roof is 6inches thick. Just add a bit of Portland to the top for strength and finish. The dryer the mix the stronger the concrete. Just add water as you build the sides up. Plywood or OSB for inside forms.
Years ago I went to a world of concrete show, in one of the seminars I attended the "concrete expert" said you only need enough water to set off the chemical process and the less water you have the stronger your concrete!
Definitely. Stronger, but at the tradeoff of being more brittle and prone to cracking.
In the video I watched, the Cajun Country Livin couple did a 5'x5' slab in front of their porch, they dry filled half of the 2x4 form. Then laid hog wire reinforcing directly on the dry concrete, and then filled the rest of the form with dry concrete and screeded it off. I recommend using some form of reinforcing.
Not in the video that I referenced…
@ 11:08
ruclips.net/video/GC0j2Ey5NNk/видео.html
after you build your wooden frame. soak the ground a little so your first bag or so of crete gets moisture, the top will still remain dry.
Also many people say to leave form on for 2 days, and make sure to soak the sides of the frame to let moisture seep into the sides/bottom.
Love your videos man and I enjoyed the editing humor at the end bahaha. Thank you!
Thanks Connor!!! ☺️
Yes, please do a follow up. I’m curious to see you breakup the slab and see if it’s hard all the way through. Hmmm… that didn’t come out right! But you know what I mean. 🤣
Fantastic video man. Production quality was just great! Informative, and very entertaining. The comedic value with the bloopers at the end is what compelled me to comment. Something I rarely do! Keep up the great work!
I watched the vid from Cajun Country Living a few months back, and the ideas were popping off in my head for projects I could use this for. I found your video looking for some other opinions and ideas.
Thank you.
Just one note, on their quad parking / loading slab video that you mention they do actually use rebar reinforcement. You can see it clearly at around the 5:40 mark in their video. They put in half the mix, put in a grid of rebar, and then the the other half of the mix. Saw their video first and had to go re-check when you said they didn't use anything. They don't highlight it long, but they did actually use it.
You're referencing a newer video where they did that. Go check their original two dry pours, one is from over a year ago and the other a couple of months, and you'll see neither were reinforced.
I have a path through some woods that I wanted to make a concrete path. Now I'm going to dig forms all along and use dry concrete method . voila, instant stepping stones. Definitely, saving $$ ! Thanks for this video. 💖
I too have been in construction industry for 40 years that said couple years ago I priced concrete delivered to my house in Florida scary so I set forms inside a post and frame building 5 x 5 there abouts poured dry similar method poured section after section for multiple days.... since floor cured finished with clear coat etc now a beautiful floor in a converted living space
You are a really good RUclipsr. You have a super engaging personality. Keep it coming sir
Good job
Seeing the effect of removing the frame too soon was especially helpful!
I had the Cajun Country Livin vid pop in my recommendations and hadn't watched it yet but somehow yours decided to make me watch. This method appeals to me because I want to pour my own pad for garbage cans and a sidewalk from the side door on the garage. I am confident on the forms, rebar and prep but I have never finished concrete before. I don't want to have to worry about getting it finished in time before it starts to set. You "finishing" the edge before wetting is wild, I guess with dry pour you can call it "starting" lol!
There’s lots of time between placing wet concrete and finishing. Unless your pour is really big, you would have plenty of time. Realistically, after you float the concrete level and compact, you’d need to wait for the concrete to start to set before doing some of the finishing.
The savings comes in not having to move the water with the concrete mix.
During the early 90’s the US was making airfields in Central America. These airfields were not intended to be permanent. Fast and dirty. We made one and it included a fuel bladder. To protect the bladder we dug a hole beside the runway and lined it with concrete bags. Then watered it daily for about a month. I’m sure that bowl is still there even though the airfield more than likely washed away within 10 years of being built.
I was JUST going to ask if you could break this up to see what it actually did and how it cured. Can't wait for that video!
I learned the possibility of this when I was lazy and left bags outside and forgot about them…. And then I flood irrigated. Yup solid as rocks. The light turned on and realized the possibilities were endless as far as small non structural projects. Had a gravel driveway that was pretty trouble free except for a couple trouble spots where pot holes kept forming. Dumped some cement mix (the powder) and raked it down deep into the gravel. Worked like a charm. Oh let me add my bags of kwikrete didn’t get submerged. Just wet on the bottom and wicked all throughout. So in time your slab shouldn’t have any dry spots in the middle.