Dry Pour Showdown!
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- Опубликовано: 29 апр 2023
- I NEED TO KNOW! How do the other brands hold up to the DRY POUR METHOD. Let do a Dry Pour with Quikrete, Rapid Set and Master Craft concrete mix brands and see how they soak up the moisture. We'll be able to see what's going on because I've made forms that have Plexiglass fronts! I hope you get something out of this video and we both learn something together!
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PRODUCTS AND TOOLS I USED:
-80lbs Quikrete
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-60lbs. Rapid Set Concrete Mix
-60lbs. Rapid Set 24/6
-60lbs. Master Craft Concrete Mix
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Would have been interesting if you included a "control" slab that was mixed/poured normally to compare against them.
Repent to Jesus Christ “Cast all your anxiety on him because he cares for you.”
1 Peter 5:7 NIV
hg
That would have been good to see as well. But we know, that mix cement is stronger.
@@repentandbelieveinJesusChrist3 Mama says unmixed concrete is the DEVIL!
- Bobbie Bouche
And would have been nice to see at least a 30 day cure break? for actual strength, even mixed would beak easy 24 hour break. I may dry poor some cylinder's and have the QC at work do a break test and see the PSI verses mixed.
Same here, the first thought that popped into my head.
I used dry concrete as base for 1 inch concrete patio pavers instead of sand. Been 10 yrs, still looks perfect
Good idea. I might try that. Thanks.
How thick did you lay the concrete base?
I’m about to dry pour a patio👍🏽
1 inch? Thats very shallow is not it?
Maybe should’ve done two small slabs of each mix. One broken after 24 hours. Second after two weeks. I do like seeing how far moisture reached in each.
And that will be a real accurate scientific test... The one that scored the best in the test here should go for four samples... Then strength tested reveal one by one at one, two, three and four week apart....
And if done along side regular wet pour then that will be accurate...
And even more accurate if strength tested using a press.
So smaller 1x1 pours should be enough.
That shall give you viral status!!!
This has been the big question in my mind, too. After 2 weeks of cur'age, with extra soaks in between, what's the internal composition like?
I like your 💡 idea
Yes, and also one wet pour, to see if there's a difference.
I thought the same it would take way longer to soak up moisture in the middle so would need more time to cure
I took a strength of materials class in college around 30 years ago. In one lab, we made concrete cylinder samples and tested the strength. We did not test a completely dry mixture. However, there was a definite trend that the ones that had the least initial moisture and were then fully submerged in a bucket of water for several DAYS were the strongest. If you want it stronger, it needs much more water during the curing phase over a longer time. Concrete is porous. The water will get all the way into the center and cure it if you give it enough time.
Water does increase strength to a point. Most commercial 80lb mix bags require a gallon of water for the mix...... and no evaporation..... Misting with 25' long 3/8" garden hose using a water conserving nozzle is going to take a little while to get a gallon of water into the mix, and keep it in there.
I think most people underestimate how much water they need. Alot of the commercial bag mixes encourage wetting of your base if you read the bag or the data sheet.
What is the time frame between initial moisture and when you would submerge them?
True. My stepfather made poured the cement around swimming pools and I asked him why they were covered with plastic for so long. A: To keep people from walking on them, not from the rain. He showed me how they pull up the plastic and re-wet the concrete daily. The plastic was to keep the water IN under the hot sun. #NoCracks
Still have to be careful adding water. Especially if you're after a desired slump
That is really interesting. I'd like to learn about the science of why that would be so.
I would like to see you revisit this entire test, all four bags, maybe even add in 1 or 2 more contenders, as a 30 day strength test.
no need..
the strength from concrete comes from mixing..
if i look at my local producer they have investigated how long time is perfect.
to much or to little makes the concrete weak
Repent to Jesus Christ “Cast all your anxiety on him because he cares for you.”
1 Peter 5:7 NIV
Also add in a control of mixed wet cement.
@@Hansen710strength of concrete comes from chemical reaction, cement and water content (less water -stronger concrete). Mixing time has nothing to do with strength. Mixing trucks drive to different locations and different time, while mixing concrete by the way they go. And sometimes waiting in line to pour out the concrete
I came to say the same. 24 hrs to test this is too little. Doing a control of wet mix, then for the dry do all wetting for more soaks, then to a 24 hr, 48 hr, 5 day, 15 day, and 30 day. In big projects we can add an accelerator to be able to walk in a slab the same day to get control joints in, but if we are going to do a crack test it’s going to need more than 24 hrs. The dry pour world has my curiosity, it would be a game changer for the average person to be able to achieve hardscape goals without breaking the bank. As long as it wasn’t vehicle traffic it may be the best solution with the pricing we are currently getting in the market.
Ive done dry pours for years for small projects such as pavers or a garden path sidewalks. The largest I did was for a small metal shed for my lawn mower and yard equipment. One of the sections cracked but never shifted and as it just has my push mower on it was not an issue. Honestly I picked up a cement mixer from Harbor Freight and have enjoyed it much more than dry pouring. I know its mixed well and is super easy to use. Before that I used a 5gal bucket and a mixing attachment for my drill to mix the crete. I like to not have to spend the evening watering the concrete this way. Please remember to wear a mask if you are doing anything more than a few bags as you do not want that crap in your lungs.
being the cheap, code breaking hooligan that I am. I wanted a driveway/ parking spot for my truck. So I did a drypour, but I had my spouse mist it the entire time I was pouring/spreading the mix out in the form so this way it got pretty good moisture in the mix. Then hosed the crap outta it few hours later. Then left it alone for 30 days. Hasnt cracked yet on me, but the surface has chipped abit, but I didnt care if it looks nice, my lawncare trucks that drip every fluid like a stuck pig and any other weird projects I come up with are on it, so its stained up bad anyways. But its held up the last few years.
I've always done my smaller slabs by mixing in a wheelbarrow with a shovel.
Wow. Are you parking a half-ton on it? How thick is it? And what State/climate are you in? Thanks!
I remember making a foundation for a bridge over a stream to a river. We just stacked bags of cement and drove some rebar through them. Over 10 years later the city found out that an engineer wasn't involved and redid it. They really had a tough time getting that out and their bridge didn't last.
I am excited to see the 30 day slab. I am planning to do a small dry pour patio in my back yard. Love your videos. Keep on keeping on!!!!!
I've been following your channel for a while. I love your artistic builds with concrete. This dry pour could be a game-changer for me. I'm an "over 60" YO woman and need to make some updates to the sidewalks outside. It seemed outside my bandwidth to do it myself. I could do this though. I'm waiting for the 30-day slab test. Thank you so much.
Repent to Jesus Christ “Cast all your anxiety on him because he cares for you.”
1 Peter 5:7 NIV
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This method will absolutely fail, especially in a sidewalk. Mix the proper amount of water in the concrete. Yes, you can pour the concrete in the forms, but you need to leave some room for the water displacement, and be sure to mix/stir it enough to get all of the dry concrete wet and also allow the air to rise to the top.
@@jmackinjersey1 You couldnt be more wrong, I have a 40 yard sidewalk made of bags, didnt even open the bags, just kept them wet for 30 days. All put on the ground during a period of year for the highest forecast of rain. Theyve been their now since 2013. Theyve seen hot sun and -22F in the winter.
@@DarkLinkAD bet that looks good. 👌
@@jaxturner7288 Yup, I live deep in the woods and it looks like a smooth stone, if you want it rectangular and flat, you could literally shape it in the bag. But I prefer stones that can be moves if I want to redesign a walkway.
You got me loosing sleep, waiting for you to break open the slab. Two weeks seems like two years.... Can't wait
Man, am I enjoying this little concrete experiment. I, too, became intrigued after watching the Cajun Country videos. My son is a professional concrete man, so I'm going to hook him up with these sites. Looking forward to two weeks.
I have been dry pouring for years. The trick is fill up about half way and wet it down and mix lightly with a hoe,put in rebar if needed and then put in rest of concrete and then do the same thing,smooth and finish.
Good tip, big jobs or a small one? like can you do it with crawlspace rat slab (3" thick or so?)
Yes that is how I do it. You can't finish the surface properly doing the way shown. You need to bring the 'cream' up to the surface to got a very hard cement rich material to the surface. For some things this doesn't matter. But if you do as you and I do it, you still have a wet surface to finish properly.
Thinking about doing a 100 sq ft job. Think it’ll work/hold in the long run? A 300lb gazebo will be sitting on it.
If it truly worked well, it would be done like this commercially. Given the water becomes part of the concrete as part of the chemical reaction, you're really just wasting money half-assing it this way. Even worse if your a contractor doing this to your customers.
@@dannyboii_reps Remember to add load for any gazebo occupants.
I think it's safe to say that if you do dry pour it needs to only have foot traffic or light structures on it. Any thing else like driveways and parking pads need to be mixed and have metal inside. Great vid!!
in theory you could still lay rebar with a dry pour.
@@jonathanlees8017 I agree with you! And even doing walkways around the house or pads for sheds epoxy wire would work great. If I was doing a drive way or parking pad 4 inches deep I would use both!
Great video! Only wish you had made a second slab at the same time to test in 2 or 4 weeks. 👍
Thanks for the effort in testing. I learned that the fine content of pre-mix may vary by region and batches. The paint roller is brilliant but it may be difficult to pull up enough cement dust to get a smooth finish on top. Here is what worked for me. 1. Screed the dry pre-mix concrete to a reasonably smooth finish, postpone the paint roller. 2 When you buy your pre-mix concrete, get a bag of sand mix as well (aka topping or bedding). 3. Borrow an collander from the kitchen and sift 1/8" to 1/4" of sand mix over your still dry pre-mix. 4. Paint roll if you want. 5. Mist and wet per the cajun technique. 6. If you skip the paint roller you will get a finish that looks like a spray on rubberized truck bed with some grit, perfectly good for a non-slip finish. Thanks for sharing your good work.
Destructive testing is where we really learn. Good for you, looking forward to seeing the cured slab.
Thanks Mike, you have inspired us to try a bunch of projects ourselves!
Many people are missing the point I think. Any method of dry or wet pouring is just another tool. Because there are times when you just need a different way of doing something for particular situations.
VERY WELL PUT! Thats exactly how I feel! My favorite comment of the day for sure ☺️👍🏻
Please inform me of the situation where not properly mixing concrete for a poured slab is an acceptable practice? (when I say acceptable, I mean proper- not "Im too lazy so lets do the bare minimum") This attitude is why everything in the world has gone to sh*t lol.
It takes less than 5 min to mix up a 50 lb bag of concrete in a 5 gallon bucket with a lid on it if you just roll it back and forth on the ground.
@@henryknox4511 Many years ago I saw a video where a person used this technique to make a border for their lawn. He poured out the dry mix along in a little ditch he dug and then placed irregular stones on top, then misted it all like in this video. I think for that purpose it was probably sufficient since it wasn't being walked on and a lot faster then mixing up so many bags and then trying to get the wet mixture in a gently curved and sloping line. But I haven't actually done it so I don't know for sure. Just wanted to share another place this might be used.
@@jwrightgardening Nothing wrong with that, I wouldn't expect it to last too long with sprinklers running and rain etc...but that isn't a slab or even flatwork. The guys that lay border curbing usually use an extruder or at bare minimum they properly trowel the work so it seals and doesn't crumble apart in 5 years. Innocent DIY youtubers will watch this and think it's a good idea to use this method for their own shed, garage, or sidewalk pour- which it's not, it's pathetic and lazy.
@@henryknox4511 Now mix 30 80lb bags one after another and see how easy it is to put down and keep up with it on a slab.
I appreciate your effort going into this testing. Looking forward to the next video of the cured small slab.
I used the mastercraft bags Easter weekend for pad at entrance we added. Turned out great and is solid! Was a 6ft by about 6ft dry pour slab.
Very interesting concrete testing Michael! looking forward to your follow up in two weeks! 👍👍
Other good advice is to take a sander and vibrate the sides to be sure any air is out and all spaces are filled, prior to adding water. You also need to add water every hour or something. I wouldn’t do this without adding gravel underneath to allow water drainage so you don’t have freeze and thaws that lifts the concrete. If it was large enough I would use rebar or that metal fencing whatever it’s called. If you do a large a piece be sure to wet saw a slice through it in hopes it follows this line for cracking and doesn’t randomly crack because it will. That’s why side walks have those indents it between. The cracks don’t always follow the lines but if definitely helps. Then add gravel and dirt to the side to support if a walk way.
This testing is really great. Thanks for doing this!
For my experience, I used a dry pour to set the posts on a backyard fence last summer. The first 6 or so were wet pour, the rest dry pour. None of the fence posts have seemed loose or that they aren't well set, but the posts where a dry pour was used seem to be set more firmly. With as much data as a guy can gather by giving a fence post a wiggle.
Really looking forward to your update in two weeks.
This brings back an ancient memory. My employer was installing a liquid nitrogen tank. The slab was poured in the normal way then they put a water sprinkler on it for two weeks to improve the strength.
I wish you had done a comparison between the two methods (dry poured in one form and the second form with a traditionally mixed batch, i.e. mixed with water and then poured into the form). I'd like to see the relative strength between the two methods. I have a feeling the mixed material would be stronger as the correct ratio between water and concrete mix can be assured whereas the dry pour method is anybody's guess. It seems to me moisture wicking into the center might dampen the material but not have enough water to complete the chemical reaction.
You think right
That's one of the issues, although even the pre-cast concrete industry uses dry-pour to make some components. But a homeowner might use the mix ratio on the bag to get the same amount of water into the dry-pour. Let's say a gallon per bag of mix. Okay, so long as you get the same gallon of water into the dry-pour by the end of the 'watering cycle' (maybe using a pump-tank sprayer to measure out the gallon), that might help the dry-mix absorb and cure properly.
Concrete naturally porous. It would eventually get enough water. But I still wouldn't do it this way.
I'm really looking forward to the full reveal on the dry pour. Getting ready to make a patio, and I don't want to rent of buy a mixer
I hear ya! I’m wanting to pour a foundation for a lean too I’m adding to the new shed so I really can’t wait to see haha
@@MichaelBuilds for the record, your videos are giving me MASSIVE amounts of helpful guidance in my ideas, steps to consider, and costs to factor! You're one of the most helpful people doing these projects on RUclips
@@joshuagorrell9235 I can’t tell you how much that means to me man! THANK YOU SO MUCH! ☺️💪🏻👍🏻
don't cut corners. if this worked then manufacturers would be recommending it.
You’re pouring a patio? You want that to last for life. You won’t regret renting a mixer to do it right
Back in 1965 my grandfather who was a master masonry worker told me on a job we won’t know until 5 years how good this slap is!
Lol things have changed
I seen concrete fail faster.
There’s a RUclips channel where the guy pours it in a clear glass bowl very interesting. This is very exciting since it would be easier for a lot of us.
Michael, 1st Thanks for being unbiased with your test!
2nd, I think, since your beloved rapid set, sets & dries so fast, it should have been watered at shorter intervals than the other kinds. If you noticed, it was totally dried & needed water while the others still looked wet... give it another test with different rules as it's a different product.
3rd, I'm really looking forward to your next video where you test your original slab for strength, & I'm glad you're giving it 30 days to cure.
4th, You should start some of these dry pour blocks, allow them to cure the 30 days, then have the PSI tested & compared to wet poured in an unbiased test where the lab doesn't know the samples are dry pour. People will trust your test/outcome, as you haven't seemed to have an ax to grind in the argument (so to speak)!
Thanks again... awesome job!!
Good stuff. I hope this leads to more dry pour testing. Especially one that explores getting a good finish on a dry poured slab.
Absolutely! There just so many ways we could take this haha
I'll be doing some tests too, hopefully soon. But I'm going to test wet mix against dry pour and after 28 days of cure time, watering it well during that time
@@jakefriesenjake also test the structural value of finished concrete vs set concrete.. we do a lot of work to finish concrete.. because we believe it makes it stronger.. prove it please?
I haven't even started the video yet and I want to thank you I've been waiting for one of these videos to see what's inside. Your dry poor patio experiment video was very good.
Thank you for this informative video!!
Considering the method to extend my patio. Looking forward to seeing your two week results!!
really liking this series and how methodical you are. the first drypour vid was my intro to your channel, actually. i like the energy and fast pace too. good stuff, brother!
I'd really like to know the actual PSI of dry pour compared to traditional mix after 30 days. For science!
Cajun Country Livin' (the RUclips channel) estimates a 50% drop in psi using the dry pour method. They have driven their Ford F250 onto a dry pour slab, and the slab held. However, I would not use this method to pour a house foundation or any slab, especially a driveway, in which a very heavy vehicle (e.g., ten-wheel dump truck) might drive upon.😮
allborg portland for example can pretty much tell you that
i wonder if these youtubers even read the info that is on the products, before they ask 🤣 monkey see monkey do 🤫
there are rules for mixing so the strengh becomes best..
and producers have done testing with almost no mixing
you will see that it makes a sandbox pretty much, if you dont mix the correct amount of time..
to much mixing will also make it weak
Looks like 3 PSI after this test so multiply that by 30.
Practical engineering did some psi tests with concrete, from very little water to too much water. Too much water is about the same as dry, not good.
I think the rapid set process can be different from the other. I thought the misting process was not to disturb the look of the top of the smooth dry concrete. Since rapid set "sets" so quickly, I think you could have just started the downpour earlier after the first mist that hardened the top layer.🤷♀
Using a trowel on properly wetted and mixed concrete will make a smooth surface when it dries. But if it is a sidewalk, you don't want it too smooth, as it can become slippery when it is wet.
RUclipsrs keep making these dry pour test videos, but how has nobody made a video by doing both dry and standard mixed pours, side by side, then you could really compare the two.
This is the shittiest concrete I've ever seen broken- spent 15 years as a new construction plumber that had to break a lot of fresh slabs to put pipes back in the wall on a regular basis.
@@henryknox4511 seen comments in another "dry pour" video. Guy was talking about dry pouring a garage with lood bearing footings with rebar and everything. Lol
@@Mad-A Dry pour just means too lazy to do it right. That concrete is garbage.
@@henryknox4511 I use to pour concrete professionally for over 10 years. These videos Make me cringe. Good enough for a sidewalk but not anything else.
Because they don't want to prove that this method here is absolutely the Wrong method of pouring concrete.
Cool. Can’t wait to see the results. I have dry packed posts, but never really knew how they held up time
I dry poured a post in 1984 for our electrical service, the post still hasn't shifted an inch, after 8-10 hurricanes.
Watch next week rapid set comes out with a dry pour formula to take over the diy market
I can't wait 2 more weeks. Thanks a million. This information is very important. This could be a game changer or not a good idea. Thanks.
Need to do a dry mix wet mix shootout.
I've set hundreds of posts with the red bag of quickcrete, dry one gallon or less of water, none have fallen over, tried to use my Ford to pull one out after 7 years and the truck quit and went home for the day, never came out.
love these tests!!! keep going man 💪🏾
Excellent review! Can't wait to see the results of the 2 week slab test.
I left some spare bags of concrete out side, covered, out of the rain for a year, and almost all of them turned fairly solid simply from thr moisture in the air
This was very enlightening. If anything it seems more water would have helped.
Even conventional wet concrete should be cured while covered in wet towels for a week, so that's also a factor in all this.
Thank you for doing this. The more people doing random tests, the more we learn.
Very cool presentation. Looking forward to seeing more. Thank you Sir!
Thank you Geoff!
I've mixed so much concrete by hand - this is really interesting!
Can't wait to see that slab in 2 weeks! this is a great series!
Ok. This is one of the best ideas and videos so far
Haha 😂
Really appreciate these tests! We have multiple projects in the works and want to know more about dry pouring before we try it.
(I found this on another site written by a civil engineer. It may help you achieve better results.)
@mikehewitt1253
1 month ago (edited)
Dear all, let me try to help everyone understand concrete.
The cement part of any mortar or concrete reacts with water in a hydraulic chemical reaction (exothermic reaction i.e. generates heat). When thoroughly cured, meaning allowing enough time for this reaction to take place and preferably throughout all the cement particles where they become irreversibly hardened and water proof.
However, cement on it's own will shrink significantly and crack all over so it needs a binder - sand - this 'stretches' the cement through the mix so when it hardens via Curing it's bonded to lot's of already hard sand particles and more cement particles alike creating a hard material that doesn't crack - mortar.
However 😁 mortar is not strong in itself. For strength we add Aggregate, ideally for strength you want some flat, some irregular stones (not pebble like) of 3 sizes - pea size, golf ball size and halfway between those - giving us Concrete when Cured throughout.
Now, I've watched many dry pour vids with interest and listened to the nay sayers saying it has to be WET to cure and therefore dry pour is nonsense.........
Time for education folks where (after that which I have outlined above) you will be surprised that I'm on the side of dry pour ....... SORT OF......
When dry pouring, it is tamped thoroughly down before spraying - this is GOOD - but cement particles and sand particles and aggregate elements throughout will not all receive moisture, will not Cure and will remain as dust in parts - not good.
BUT Wet is not great either! It's CONVENIENT.
The best, strongest concrete is Mechanical Concrete which is made with JUST ENOUGH water to provide moisture throughout for correct curing.
The test is - grab a small fist full, squeeze hard together in palm of hand and if doesn't hold shape and crumbles when released from pressure, needs more moisture. The shape should Break cleanly in two pieces without crumbling - if stretches in the break test, it's too wet.
So my recommendation to all is........
Dry pour mix thoroughly together with rake, add moisture by spraying so as not to over-wet BUT rake that moisture throughout and THEN Tamp down hard compacting it all properly and level off.
All this 24 hrs later stuff is inadequate - Minimum curing time is a month - covered to keep that minimum moisture in the mixed pad, base, driveway, - shouldn't be touched, don't go near it - best of both worlds here as easy as Dry Pour and stronger than the normal convenient Wet stuff which because of too much moisture cannot be as compacted and consolidated to provide the same strength.
Go Mechanical guys, it's the best. Anyone want to hear my views on Earthcrete, which I find fascinating - by the way - I'm a Civil Engineer - spent an entire year studying Concrete - an entire bloody year on nothing but concrete.
PS DON'T use quickset anything, you won't have enough time for all rake work, use standard Portland.
That was awesome! Great demonstration. I really liked your method of experimenting. Good job!
Amazing video! Thanks for showing us, it really gives me an idea of what method to try depending on the project.
What if you also wet down the ground before starting? Great Video!! Thanks for this!!
I know, I really wish I would have done that but I forgot haha
It’s been great seeing more frequent content lately Michael! 💪
Thanks for showing this. I did a 6’ x 5’6” x 3” dry pour and will now wait a couple of weeks before I install our shed on the surface. I will also spray water into the grass in hopes more moisture will be soaked up in the middle-which is my concern area.
I think its a viable method for certain applications. I put a soil cement floor in a pole barn between 3.4-12" thick using road base and weak portland mix stretched with some sandy soil my neighbor delivered. The PSI might have only been 1000 in the end but it could take vehicles fine. The issue arose when I dropped a tool and it took a chunk out or dragged something across and it scratched, so having a 3-4k psi top layer would have helped that.
Been waiting on this
Just wait till we do the 4’x4’ slab haha. That’s the one I’m itchin to crack open lol
Typical Concrete breaks are in 28 days, or 56 days, at the concrete company i work at, all the cylinders we take are cured under water for 7 days before going in to a room with a fixed humidity, my garage slab we dammed up the sides and let the slab water cure for 7 days. The ROE Rate of evaporation will make a huge difference, areas in the country that are extremely dry might have a different outcome.
Lol, I just made my form and came online to double check rock size for underneath the concrete. Great timing.
I’m glad I could help! ☺️👍🏻
You will get millions of views if you are the first to publish a good PSI test of a standard test cylinder vs the same concrete in a wet mix.
You could saw them off in the middle (or as I'd like to put more poetically "cleft in twain") with a concrete gas saw, and one half could be smashed, and the other half left to cure for 28 days.
I would like to see what happens when you completely soak the rapid set and not wait every hour.
I think what you'd get is runoff; the mix won't be able to take that much water all at once. While the mixes absorb water, too much at once won't work in the dry-pour foundation molds.
well just take the process and divide the times by how much faster the rapidset is supposed to work at least.
Hmmm could you mist in-between pouring dry then on top?
thats what happens when you dont follow the mixing instructiuons that are needed to get the strength of the product
not matter what this would be weak and falling apart quick
the strengh from concrete comes from mixing it the perfect time..
producers have all the info needed
He's trying to make sure he's following the instructions given by the original YT posters on this subject. Once you start varying the process, you introduce too many variables.
I love this video. I'm ready to do dry pours but want to make sure I'm not wasting my money. Thanks!
I like the idea. Because even if it doesn’t fully mix and set if you get cracks they will “self heal” with added moisture. Kind of like Roman concrete.
You are super awesome for taking the time to build these forms & become a scientist just for us lol. Thank you. ❤
Very well done test just like last time! A one year comparison would be interesting too. So far this looks like an easier way to get decent results. I also wonder if your preferred brand wouldn't also do well after a year of outdoor conditions. My interest is more in regard to art but it's an undeniably impressive building material!
Cajun County Living reviewed their's after a yr...
@@leahrowe847 Thanks I'll check them out!
Dude! Thanks for doing this. I saw one of those dry pour videos and as a builder I was like, what the heck is this?! Good to have some experiments to show how viable this is for lightweight use!
It's probably readily doable to invent a concrete formula that's specially designed for dry forming. This was interesting. Who knew we'd be entertained watching concrete dry! :P
Two things I noticed. Cajun Country light mists just to wet top from about 4ft away. You put more water and seemed a higher pressure mist. 2nd they recommended 2 LIGHT sprays for every inch of depth. 4" would've been 8 sprays, 1 per hour. Is that what you did? PS: love the content MB
Would have loved to see you mix a wet concrete one to compare against the dry pour ones.
Dry pour fanboys know better. 👊
Glad I watched to the end and see your remarks on what the test was about.
When you do the reveal in your original slab do a live showing and announce it! That might be fun.
anyone who hits green concrete with a sledge hammer should not be amazed when it breaks easy. Concrete cures for the first 28 days and will continue to absorb moisture. Full hydration and the chemical process takes time.
He talks about this in the end.
This is historic. I'm positive this video will go viral. I got really excited seeing these tests. For the Dyi guy and small projects this is really a labor saver
Absolutely enjoyed this test video. It's making my decision easier to do a setup like this for my hottub base. If course it will be reinforced with metal inside it. Thank you for doing these info videos.
This will be perfect for my project. Thank You 😊
The main thing I like about dry poured concrete is the beautiful finish you get. It looks exactly like ratty old rotten concrete. Who doesn't like that look in their back yard. Makes it easier to clean too. If it gets stains, no worries. Just wait a while and the surface will soon spall off and you will have a brand new (cratered) surface. It's beauty gets better with age.
Being an anal-retentive engineer, but a die-hard DIY, I really hate the idea of having to get a concrete truck in to do a 12x12 pad that is really going to be temporary (couple of years). This Dry Pour technique sounds perfect! Your test here was great!
There is still one question in my mind to satisfy my doubts... I'd really like to see a head to head Dry vs Wet... say 3 samples of each using Quikrete... (1) hammered at 24 hour, and (2) after the bag's 5 day claim and (3) hammered at 28 days.
I'd really like to see ASTM C39 test comparisons, but I don't think the RUclips community has access to such capabilities.
Senseless to test after 24 hours, no one claims the method is ready for heavy traffic then. The @Country Living couple even says they estimate the dry pour method loses up to 50% of the strength, even after a couple of months of curing. So, *DON'T* use dry pour for any foundation work, *DON'T* use it for driveways, and *DON'T* use it anyplace where it might be under excess stress.
@@xenaguy01 As I understand it, concrete (wet pour) gets stronger over the long term (years). I must have missed the videos that refer to dry pour losing strength over time. Actually, I didn't think there were any vids of a long term nature yet. Even the recent one by @Country Living of checking out the chicken coop didn't discuss any loss of strength. Can you reference your comments by any civil engineering study or even any YT over several months? I haven't seen one yet. Maybe, I'll have to do a formal comparison using ASTM standards. But I'm not a RUclips personality nor have the figure to be one!
@@inqonthat1463 My mistake, I didn't mean to imply dry pour concrete loses strength with time. Exactly the opposite happens. Dry pour concrete, like wet pour, strengthens over time, but only to 50-70% the strength of "normal" (wet pour) concrete.
Hey Michael! Thanks for this experiment! 😊❤
After your previous "dry pour" video, I stumbled on some long winded guy, who because of his impatience came up with a cheat for watering. I think he was only partially versed on this dry pour thing, and didn't even know he was doing it "wrong". But I like his method, and think it would help distribute water through the center much more efficiently. What he did was pour his dry mix about 2/3 deep in his forms, then drenched that, then laid dry mix on top, screed-ed it then did the mist, mist, soak, soak, soak. Since you are watering the bottom 2/3, you don't need to be the least bit careful, and you can be reasonably assured the majority of the slab is well activated to set. The only caveat is the pour must be completed post-haste lest you have a cold joint prone to scaling. Thought this tidbit might be helpful to someone.
All of these people break them up within 1 day instead of waiting a couple weeks when they're fully cured, because they're so eager to get a video out fast about dry-pouring, since it's the newest thing and wanna cash-in on the views.
I'm guessing you didn't watch the whole video, otherwise you would know that he addressed that and in 2 more weeks he'll do the same with the dry pour slab that he poured 2 weeks ago.
This is super cool. I just did my first dry poor for some deck footings. And now / soon goibg ti do some for fence posts! Hey I’d rather not have to mix !! Loo
Cant wait for the two week video! You got yourself a new subscriber!
Moist hehe
That's "loose and moist".😅😅
😆
@@bomejoe haha true
Thanks for sharing! I had the same questions and wondered the same thing.
I did a dry pour for a couple of paths and stairs around a veggie garden. However, I used old render rather than bags of concrete mix. I also didn’t follow such a scientific methodology. I simply poured it in, levelled it off and gave it a light spray. I then let rain do the rest. It has held up perfectly for 3 years now. So good on ya for 1 trying this and 2 trying different mixes.
I tell ya what brother I've been pouring concrete for years with pages setting post and sidewalks me being me I've always just mixed and poured it seems I won't have the bad feeling of thing going wrong lol I see a bunch of people do this I just do it the old fashioned way and move on lol great work brother keep I up love your work on I gotta set me about 250 block tomorrow in a cellar and using the old skim coating you showed me awhile back on the fake rock wall you built thanks man 🤙🤙 God blessed you and yours
Great test! Was wondering myself what goes on in the inside and will it ever be completely solid. Can’t wait for that original pad to be tested!
I love e your videos informative no fluff straight to the point and thank God not mundane or boring! Your upbeat presentation is awesome.
Especially for this hyperactive 60 year old that has the attention span of a nat!😂 Thanks man don't change a thing on your videos
Out of curiosity would you be able to Trowel the 24-6 to smooth and give it a bevel after it’s 4th wetting (2 mist 2 shower)?
cool video. Did the master craft bag weigh the same as the other 3 60# bags, or was it lighter too (meaning less material in it).
i like this test method. i'll be back to see that other slab in two weeks.
Great work. Can't wait for your next vid on this before I decide what to do. Hurry!
Interesting idea. I feel an 8"x8"x24" form would have yielded more useful info, even without the plexiglass.
Moreso, adding the manufacturers recommend amount of water/mix.
This method is super fascinating. Im curious how this would work in various shaped molds. Im also curious if you spent time packing the dry cement before wetting it would that change the outcome. Ive heard this method works perfectly for fence post setting but im curious all the applications this can be used
You're one of the very few people I've ever seen use a mask for the concrete dust....you'll live much longer...awesome video...GREAT patron board...Thank you!
This is why I subscribed to you. Love the testing stuff
I’ve made the mistake of leaving bagged concrete mix out overnight after setting posts, and it rained, and after several days I remembered my goof. I still have those two big blocks of concrete in the shape of the bags.
I saw the country Cajun videos, I’m framed up to try this tomorrow. Wish me luck!
I'd try one with soaking the ground first, then putting in the concrete and going through the watering process.