Nice one Tom. We’ve had our Daikin since April 21 so second winter. I ran for a year using Nest control and achieved an SCOP of 3.78. 204m2 bungalow. No radiators or pipes changed and we have 10mm microbore drops to each radiator from 28mm main lines in the loft. I switched to weather compensation in April 22 but still need to tinker a bit more. Our SCOP hit 3.83 but our recent COP has been 2.47 in these -10 nights. Still much to learn. I need to revisit Heatgeek training on my Daikin controller
@@Lewis_Standing the weather compensation is within the Daikin HP. I haven’t disconnected the Nest yet. So I’m at a half way point. I think Heatgeek showed how to remove the room thermostat from the Daikin controls. But I’m yet to do that
@@TomBray-LowCarbonLifestyle it’s a very good point Tom. It does require installers to be able to educate their customers or their customers to be a bit geek like me 😊
How can we expect people to understand and be bothered to fiddle with the settings of a heatpump? With all other systems you set the room temperature and that’s it - no heat curves etc etc. Installers just want to install, take the money and leave. Manufacturers manuals are technical and not designed for users. Things will need to change if the average person is to be persuaded to adopt a heatpump. I say this as a heatpump owner with four years experience and an engineering degree 😆
It’s a fair point Ken, I guess people with heat pumps today are to some extent early adopters. I hope there is a steep learning curve so the things we experience the next people don’t need to. I would say the work that Heat Geek appears to be doing looks like it could be shaping the industry in a positive manner. Training installers well and giving advice to consumers, I hope, will help future installations. I guess I’m into the detail because that’s my character… could’ve just left it as it was and not done a video about it…!
Great video Tom. I think its better to set back the flow temp rather than the room temp and leave it running. Have tried both ways in our house and seems to work better doing it with flow temp as the room temp method meant the system water had dropped a long way so when the heatpump comes back on it has to get right back up first. Works for us
I'd say we desperately need a much steeper 'teaching curve'! I've recently had a Daikin system installed and, although I pretty pleased with it overall, it is desperately complicated (for the average person, who's not too interested in efficiency, they just want to be warm) to tweak. It's doubly frustrating when the controllers on the RUclips videos (of which there are thousands!) seem to behave differently from my own. Could the manufacturers not have three simple preset modes: low/med/high efficiency ? This would help your 'average Joe' to easily switch between the different modes when outside temperatures change significantly? In depth adjusting could still be possible for those with the knowledge and patience to keep resetting their systems.
This is one area that AI can help with. Every house is different, so setting the heat curve and flow temperature is a matter of trial and error. Automatic adjustment that learns how to hit heat requirements in the most efficient way would be a godsend.
Hi Tom, Have you looked into third party controllers, setbacks and heat curves etc could be confusing for some, Homely is one I’m thinking of that looks easy for the switch on and forget people
Hi Tom, I've just found your channel, as we're about to have a re-survey from Octopus, so I've been soaking up all of the RUclips videos on heat pumps that I can find. This is a great video and you're a natural presenter! If we do have a Heat Pump very soon (fingers crossed), then I'll definitely use the excellent advice in this video. Thanks for the information. Phil
Hi Tom great video. I find that set back of flow temp is better and leave the heat pump running all the time as room temp set back the whole system temp drops to ambient and then it takes more energy to get back up. Dropping the flow temp by 5 degrees seems to work for us. We have a 220year old stone house so always best to keep the fabric warm as you need to re warm that before the air temp rises. Worth a try?
Great stuff. Cheers John. I run our heat pump similarly now. Just means we’ve got a warm house a lot of the time! I’m planning an autumn efficiency video because I think we’re much higher now Tom
I don’t have a ASHP - but some comparisons can be made with gas boilers in so much modern condensing boilers have an optimum efficiency curve and it seems to be turning down the flow temperature but give it longer to do it’s job. It seems to work at my sons house. My house is warm air so the temperature of the boiler is already low and I also have a set back temperature and it has saved about 10%. However this year my stat does not go above 19 degrees. 18 is the norm for the morning rising to 18.5 in the afternoon to the max early evening. As we are retired we need to heat our home all day and use throw over blankets to lift our personal comfort which works very well. Warm up time is rapid with warm air but correspondingly cool down is equally rapid as there is no retained residual heat. I’m hoping that in our new bungalow we will be able to up our comfort level once we have changed the gas boiler for an ASHP. Your vids are priceless thank you. Regards Mike
Hi Mike, thanks for commenting - yes definitely some lessons on efficiency for a gas boiler too. My father in law lives in a house with a warm air system too. Lots of issues with it! Really kind of you to message and I am pleased videos are helpful / enjoyable! Tom
Mechanical engineer here, The need for a more conservative set buck temp is particular to the emmiter size, so it is not really true for every heat pump insulation. For example the addition of a just one fancoil unit, can significantly reduce the reheat time, without any need for water temperature increase. The only considerations are the bit of noice and air movement, however I find both pleasant during a cold winter morning. Also the SCOP can get quite a boost with the continuous use of such unit across the heatting season, combined with a lower weather condensation curve.
Hi Sevastos - thanks for the comment, hello from a Mechanical Engineer also. You make a fair point about emitter size. In this video I am reporting my experience in my situation, adding in a fan coil unit, or convector radiator, or more radiator surface area would reduce reheat time (i.e higher emitter output) but not possible for my system at the moment. This would allow a lower flow temperature and higher efficiency. But with my system, increasing the set back temperature has allowed me to lower the flow temperature and maintain comfort Thanks for your comment Tom
@@sevastoskoumtzis5401 Cost of changing an existing system is the main one. Although I could add a product like this - www.smart-secure.co.uk/shop-by-brand/speed-comfort/ to help increase radiator output and drop flow temp even further
@@TomBray-LowCarbonLifestyle Yes! I've seen those, they seam pretty nice and they can be a very simple fix for so meany people with ASHPs, however, even though there is no installation cost, they are a bit pricey compared to a dedicated fan coul unit, considering the significantly higher output of such units. Btw, AtoAHPs do the exact same thing, because they are a fan coil themselves.😉
Yep! We tend to favour air to water in housing in the UK, because we are used to radiators providing our heat, but air to air heat pumps definitely have a place, particularly where we may need some cooling too. Thanks for the comments
I leave my night time setback to no more than 3 degrees C as it use resistance heating in the morning to boost for the daytime setting if the heat pump cannot keep up with demand. Heat pumps need to run more and do less the more constant the better. The other way to improve would be to warm up the outside air lol which many have done by using an enclosure that heat with sun but still allows enough air to flow when needed. Also 4 solar panels would be enough to run a heat pump and now many models have direct solar panel connections. Cheers
Just got my heat pump installed an d running in Sep 24. I’ve been doing exactly the same as you and I’m down to 0.75 heat curve and improving efficiency all the time. One thing that I’m trying now is circulation pump settings. ( We have a buffer unfortunately). Have you tried high, medium and low speed settings? High is noisy through the pipes but seems to be best, I’m trying medium now. Low is nice and quiet but I’m still experimenting.
Hi James, something I have thought about too! And yes I have tried different settings on our circulating pump, I did not notice significant changes in efficiency when changing the settings though. When you said high seems best what do you mean? Is that more comfortable / higher efficiency? I was trying to work out the theory of what we are doing when we change the pump speed, higher pump speed means more mass of water flowing through the system, which I think will mean more heat can be deposited through radiators. Although intuitively, if water spends more time in a radiator, it would be able to give off more heat to surroundings before returning to the heat pump..... So, in the end, I am not sure what is best...! I am sure there is a right answer. I monitored the energy impact of each setting and couldnt see a discernible trend... What are you thinking? Tom
@@TomBray-LowCarbonLifestyle Hi Tom. It’s early days for me but it seems that medium speed is best for me. I’m getting between x3.5 and x4 at Sept/Oct temperatures. Also the noise levels are more tolerable, the pump is close to all three bedrooms in our bungalow. For our situation it looks as though the medium speed setting is best for efficiency, low speed seems to be worse but outside temperature differences could mask what’s going on. I will try lowering our heat curve setting a bit, but really I’m quite happy with it now. My wife thinks I’m nuts but what does she know!
@@jamesguy7396 sounds like you might be getting to some good settings, may need slight changes as it gets cooler in december / january.... For the record, my wife thinks similarly of me...!
@@TomBray-LowCarbonLifestyle Have you tried removing the 2nd pump and the buffer. If the volume/flow/heat dissipation are enough then this will improve your efficiency.
Hi Peter, we tend to heat our home to 20°C. The flow temperature from the heat pump changes with external temperature on a 'weather compensation' curve that would be different for each home Tom
I have used all the same adjustments as you on my ecodan - my degree days were worse early part of the year between 22 and 23. Over the whole year I was 20 kw difference - Dec 23 was very expensive in Scotland last year, just as my fixed ended…. 250 kw more
Hello! We have a heat meter and electricity meter connected to our heat pump. The calc is just heat out divided by electricity in. Which would give a Coefficient of performance (COP) Hope that makes sense? A lot of systems will come with an inbuilt calculation. And the Vaillant system does but we also had independent 3rd party metering Tom
I use an LG, but going on your chart, the equivalent would be 0.6. Most of the time it runs at 32 to 34 degrees. At about 10 external and 21 internal. With a COP of 5.1 I also had to pester the installer to activate the weather curve, as they had set it to a constant 48!!! That is now about half the price to run than the oil boiler we took out.
Thanks for sharing Mike, that is a great COP! Really frustrating that the installer did not set it up for efficiency. But great to hear your costs have halved!! Must feel great not to worry about oil deliveries!! Tom
Good work. Getting the best from heat pumps is a journey. perhaps software will do it in the future. this December has really stress tested our system. we have had previous cops of 5-6 plummet to 2.7 at night (-5) but it has shown you can heat a house to lovely warmth even when my neighbours are cold even with their gas boilers. Although a couple of weeks of the year our hp will cost a fraction more than gas, when looked at annually we are on track to save ~£400 on gas. our weakness has not been the heatpump but the radiators and insulation. if we could insulate more. (we will try) its a double win, flow temp goes down and cop goes up AND heat demand drops so some kind of square law relationship i guess. Bigger rads are just a single win, as the lower flow boosts COP but wont reduce the heat demand. Although rads are cheaper than a lot of types of retrofit insulation. I have found this blog has amazing info. community.openenergymonitor.org/t/vaillant-arotherm-owners-thread/21891 great to compare the cop at various flows and air temps to see if thing are working as Vaillant claim. the PDF is in Czech but the tables are legible for all models , power outputs flows etc. why its not available in English is anyone's guess!
Hi Joe - what a fantastic comment! So much helpful information, especially a link to that forum! Our efficiency has plummeted a bit the last 10 days too, unseasonably cold!! I’m only at a £35-40 saving compared to gas for the last 6 months. Which is better than nothing! Tom
Hi David, might be a question for your installer (or you might be able to find the answer online) our code is just 00… What kind of heat pump do you have?
Hi Tom I've just found a video on it and it looks like 000 is the factory setting but my installer has changed the code so I can't alter any of the settings.
Hi Tom all sorted I've cracked the code! I've got a vaillant heat pump and my thermostat is set to 21 degrees as my desired temperature however it has been reaching 23 degrees what's the best way to keep at the required temperature is it to turn my trv down from 5 to 4?
@@davidbillingham166 Top man, well done. That's an interesting conundrum. I wonder whether your weather compensation curve is set a little high? If the system is heating past the set point either you could lower the curve, or you could change the 'Room Temp Mod.' setting to 'Expanded', I understand this will adjust the flow temperature slightly to get to the set temperature and then turn off the system when that is reached. This is the setting I have our system on, as well the 'adaptive heat curve' set to off. I'd be interested in understanding what yours is set to. And compare all the settings! That is assuming you are using the sensoComfort controller like me - www.vaillant.co.uk/downloads/aproducts/controls/sensocomfort/vrc-720-gb-0020287900-00-1714662.pdf
Thanks Tom, really interesting and food for thought. I've not done any tinkering on our Samsung system yet, but I'm tempted to have a try now, as the flow temp has been nudging 50 degrees on occasion over the last week or so. I've set our system to only vary 2 degrees (18 over night and during day when no one home, 19 in the morning, 20 in the evening) which seems to work well. Our hot water is set at 50, but I'm going to try dropping this by a couple of degrees. My only concerns here though, is that during the weekly legionnaires heat cycle, the system would have to work harder for longer, would this counteract the minimal savings achieved over the week by having a lower water temp?
I can't be sure but the lower water temp has a few benefits. A higher cop and less energy to get to temprature. But also less heat loss from the cylinder during the week. So this might make up the few degrees extra the legonella cycle need to raise. Also if you are not on a time of day tariff run the legonella mid afternoon for highest air temp. It really helps the cop. People run it in the night for cheap electric but it's not the energy efficent choice.
I agree with every Joe said! On the flow temp, I suspect 50 might be reasonable when it has been so cold but should be much lower now the cold snap has ended But moving a heat curve down as low as possible, until the heat pump can’t k you warm, is going to maximise efficiency
@@TomBray-LowCarbonLifestyle Really does depend on your family needs, size and quality of water cylinder, but experiment with setting down as low as 45.
Hi Adrian, I think it’s a bit more nuanced than that. A system may be more efficient, but if we don’t need the heat we shouldn’t be wasting it. So when we are in bed overnight we have a set back as we don’t need the heat. Our heat pump has been fairly efficient despite set back, but we don’t have a large set back, we go from 19 in the day to 17.5 at night. Tom
I think of it like fuel economy vs fuel efficiency in a (petrol) car: it's most efficient (power:energy) to floor it in a low gear, but you can drive more economically (distance:energy) overall by being very light on the accelerator.
That said, it can make sense to keep the heat pump on all the time at a lower set point than to cycle it on and off (letting the house get completely cold between cycles).
Tom we have had a heat pump fitted recently, we are being told not to tinker with the settings as they control them from their end. The office. We are getting it commissioned shortly were I assume he will set the various settings. What are your thoughts on this
Controlling from their office sounds a bit odd. Who is the installer? I would be happy for an installer to set the system up properly. And if you can communicate you want to maximise efficiency they should make sure it is on weather compensation Does seem a bit strange though Tom
Hi we've had our heat pump fitted by global energy and they do the same. They can control it from their office. As I'm new to all this I'm taking it for granted they have commissioned it properly
So do you change the HW temp from 48 to 42 manually every time? And the heat curve manually seasonally? Seems like a pain. And sounds like HPs need to get SMART so that flow temp, heat curve, etc, are always changing and always optimum.
Hi Darren, can’t quite remember what I said on this video a couple of years ago, but I can set the HW temp on the controller when I want to. And don’t really change the heat curve any more. The system definitely could be smarter. and we don’t have the gateway that connects our controls to the internet which is not great!
I've set the setback temperature similar to your setup, it seems to make sense that the heat pump does not work too hard to recover the lost heat. I'm seriously thinking about lowering the DHW to 48. To be honest, outside of morning showers and maybe a little dish washing, we really don't use much DHW during the day. Will the slight drop down make much difference? Love the videos.
Thanks Mark. The set back conversation is interesting, am I just using more energy heating when I don’t need it…? And therefore could just start heating a bit earlier to get to 19 when we want it? How much storage do you have for DHW? I’d say 48° should be high enough and if you were heating a big tank to higher temperatures that could use a lot less energy…? Thanks for the comment Tom
Hiya Mark - this autumn is been about 0.55. But I’m always tinkering…! And running the system in a different manner to the past. I think averaging COP of 3.8+ so far this heating season. How are you getting on? Tom
@@TomBray-LowCarbonLifestyle it was 48 degrees in warmer months but I’ve just upped it to 50. I also do a legionnaires cycle up to 60° every Monday night on my cheap rate.
Hi Richard, not really for a few reasons, we tend to refresh the full tank on most days so fresh water each day, I tend to lift the temperature of the tank to 60°C once a month or so when the octopus agile tariff is negative or low cost which should deal with any growth, and we store normally at 45°-47°C which should be a big high for the most growth. If we ever moved out of this house, I’d reprogram the weekly pasteurisation cycle though. Tom
@@TomBray-LowCarbonLifestyle I agree with you and do something similar. Now if HPs were smart then they could automatically run a legionnaires cycle once a month when it "sees" the overnight tariff rate drop low. 😉
It’s a good question - I haven’t really thought a set back as a saving, more for comfort whilst we sleep we don’t need the heat. But I guess it does give a reduction in energy use. Overnight the temperature is likely to be lower and therefore efficiency lower, but on Octopus tariffs the price of electricity cheaper so maybe should boost temperature overnight…. The thing about reducing the set back is that it pushed me to increase the heat curved to climb the ramp and get back to temperature in the morning. If we don’t have much set back the heat curve can be low and just add small amounts of heat over a longer time. There will be an optimised set up for each house and preference, im sure… Maybe the new octopus cosy / double dip tariff might change the approach as well…. Always tinkering!
Hi Ciprian, yes you are right, I mention this in the video when I include analysis of kWh per degree day. We still used less energy, per degree day, than the previous year. Thanks Tom
19c inside your house? Damn. I tried optimising energy usage and found i cant live at lower temp and would rather switch off unnecesary rooms, heat for less hours daily than lower the room temp
Hi Boz - what temperature do you find comfortable? I guess heating for less hours would lower the room temp…? But switching off rooms you aren’t using makes sense, it will probably mean your heating system is less efficient overall but may mean you use less energy…
The biggest thing that I have learned from the these videos is that if you have mains gas, ASHP may be cheaper or more expensive than gas . (I'm not including the initial high cost of installation of ASHP which will also needs to be factored into the cost. eg £15000 over a 10 year life adds £1500 a year.) ASHP will only be better or comparable to gas if you keep it on permanently in the colder 6 months of the year. ie if you go out to work every week day and are out of the house for say 10 hours a day, you still have to keep the heat pump on to keep an empty house warm. They are extremely inefficient at providing a big initial boost when the house has cooled down a bit. So if you are at home all day, for every day of the week eg retired, housewife etc it will be great. If you are at work all day it will be more expensive.
I think that’s a bit of an oversimplification. Heat pumps can reheat buildings quickly if set up to run in that manner, however operate more efficiently to keep temperatures at a more constant state, minimising any set back when you are out of the house (gas boilers the same, but we don’t seem to care about boiler efficiency). Heat pumps can be programmed to run as you are looking for. With the latest government grant I would be very surprised if there were many £15k heat pump installations but your point stands, there may be some additional cost to factor in. With a heat pump we have multiple additional benefits, better comfort, better local air quality, maybe lower running costs, minimising impact of climate change, minimising reliance on foreign gas etc. I guess the question is … are we happy to keep burning fossils, with all the negative impact of doing so, or could we imagine a better future? And if we could have a better future, what role do heat pumps play? As, from where I am standing, they are the only method of heating buildings without burning fossil fuels. Tom
@@TomBray-LowCarbonLifestyle The simple reason why we have to focus on optimisation of a HP is that not optimising a boiler install can only really lose about 10% efficiency, while a HP can easily lose 200%. So if you get a HP very wrong then it will cost much more than a boiler to run.
Glad to see your progress Tom, steep learning curve isnt it? Just one comment regarding your hot water. Be carful about running at such low temperatures all the time. I would heat the hot water store to at least 60deg once a week to make sure that any legionella is killed off. A lot of heat pumps can do this and have setting to automate it, but not all do and its worth mentioning to your viewer to be aware of this.
Hi Mark, the pasteurisation cycle is programmed in automatically and would raise the water temperature above 60°C once a week. I must admit, I think this is excessive, we cycle the water in the tank almost daily, so there is fresh water in the tank each day. Have you seen Heat Geek's video on legionella? ruclips.net/video/oJeyc_cGIMU/видео.html
@@TomBray-LowCarbonLifestyle I agree with you if storage is cycled regularly the the risk is minimal and shower heads are actually more of a problem than the stored water. However not all households use that much water, and a lot wont be aware of the risk, or even have a pump that has the feature to pasteurize like modern pumps now do. So all im saying is that if people want to keep their stored water at low temps, they need to be aware of any possible risks and set up their systems according to their use pattern.
@@markvk42 Hi Mark, it is a fair point, I wasn't advocating for removing the pasteurisation cycle that will be part of a heat pump installation settings (although heat geek does). Once a week the temperature in the tank can be lifted above 60°C but that doesn't mean you can't normally store your water at much lower temperatures.
Interesting video. I fear though you will confuse many of your viewers - just as I think you pretty much confused yourself. Once you have fine tuned the compensation curve and settled on a proven value - this should work at all outside temperatures - well at least to the design outside temperature. If you have to ‘tweak’ the curve as the mercury plummets it suggests your emitters are undersized.
Hi Norman - thanks for engaging with the video, I think there a few factors at play when I am talking about weather compensation curves 1) although flow temperature and outside temperature are linked, this does not account for wind speed, so there is a risk, on windy days, that heat loss is higher for the same external temperature. 2) I am not able to change the gradient of the curve, just move it up and down through the sensocomfort controller. If I had more control of the curve then finer tuning for our home would be possible. Although I think that would also mean I played with the settings more often, because I can, rather than need to! 3) I think you are probably right that a couple of our rads are undersized Sorry to confuse viewers! Tom
You could have installed a cylo® from Remit Zero is an emission-free replacement for domestic, gas and oil-fired boilers. Air to water Heat pumps are a waste of money. You got screwed. Happy New year.
Looks like an interesting product. Although electric boilers like these will use at least 3x the electricity as a heat pump, so there is a risk you are locking in high costs. And you require a large electricity supply. But these do have a path to net zero as the grid decarbonises. Not sure why you think I got screwed or that heat pumps are a waste of money, but thanks for sharing Cylo with me. Tom
Hi@@billyflanagan9657 I have done my own research, spend my work life and spare time working with low carbon technology. I am not sure what you think keeps getting removed or what point you think you are making...? Happy to listen to it...! Thanks Tom
Hi Manoo42, I suspect you are right as efficiency for hot water tends to be lower than heating. Although we don’t have a combi anymore and wouldn’t install one again. It has been great to completely remove gas for both!
Hi Manoo - not propaganda or sheep to get a heat pump, it’s more or less the only way we can reduce emissions linked to heat at our homes. And a really important technology for us in the UK. Gas boilers are the big challenge in responding to the climate and energy crises Tom
@@TomBray-LowCarbonLifestyle Sad and depressing that you think there is a climate 'crisis'! The energy crisis was orchestrated by the WEF to push up prices to make renewables look reasonable...You really should look a bit deeper than the MSM propaganda and stop being so gullible. Maybe you could start by wondering why every climate change prediction ever made has failed to come true...every single one, why do you think that might be...?
Hi manoo - I’m not sure what you are reading but it seems to be misleading you. The 8 hottest years ever have been the last 8, extreme weather is impacting people all around the world, including through horrendous flooding in places like Pakistan in 2022. This is no conspiracy but risks millions of lives in the next few decades. Could you clarify what predictions climate modelling has got wrong? The world has changed, and changed at a rate that risks life as we know it Tom
Hi a.nefertiti6980 - me wanting to use less gas so we buy less from violent regimes is ‘politics’? Not sure about that one. But yes, i am an engaged citizen trying to build a better society, everything we do is ‘politics’ so happy to impact the world around me where I can. Amazed you would try to silence my voice! Thanks Tom
Who is the violent regime here? That of Genocide Joe! Would the USA allow Russia to set up camp in Mexico on its borders, and to install a puppet regime in its capital city, as happened in Kiev in 2014? When you consider Russia "a gas station with a country," you come up wih many wrong conclusions and map out all the bad decisions that have led to Slavs killing Slavs to the tune of half a million at least, and counting. The US and the Collective West have a lot to answer for in Ukraine and beyond. Think Gaza!
Absolutely! The more energy we use the higher the value of oil and gas… the main thing funding Russian aggression. We’re linked to the whole world through fossil fuel markets
I went to a heat pump as well, also partly in solidarity for Ukraine. Poetin is the devil himself, a Hitler x 10, a bloodthirsty tyrant. Anything to help stop him is good.
European countries (compared to UK) are way ahead in terms of optimised heating in winter. Once their heating comes on it pretty much stays on all the time just ticking over. The current situation has forced us all to look closer how we do things and squeeze every drop out of our system. Only you will know what's is best for your house once you have tried it. On the cost of energy, I remember as a child seeing on TV our Govt announcing the UK would not be short of CHEAP gas for the next 200yrs. It's till there..... but wait, our Govt has just signed an agreement with USA to import their fracked LNG which will be shipped in by tankers using low grade polluting fuel oil. We have wind farms shut down because of excess wind and production (we still need to pay them for their downtime) as the grid cannot deal with the extra generation and there is nowhere to store it. What a 1st World Problem we have !! DROP THE UNIT PRICE, so people could heat their homes at time of need this winter and the elderly won't die whilst that energy can be absorbed. So much is wrong. Good article: www.linkedin.com/posts/patrick-robertson-80ab01204_energy-environment-tax-activity-7004454549927186433-dwRl
I agree there is a lot wrong with our energy system and a lot that could be done to incentivise low emissions technology. I don’t agree with the argument in that linked in article. The absurd profits that the major oil and gas companies have been making seem very right to tax, and many of the industry leaders have been calling for it. Particularly as expansion of oil and gas exploration would be bad for our long term. Tom
Nice one Tom. We’ve had our Daikin since April 21 so second winter. I ran for a year using Nest control and achieved an SCOP of 3.78. 204m2 bungalow. No radiators or pipes changed and we have 10mm microbore drops to each radiator from 28mm main lines in the loft. I switched to weather compensation in April 22 but still need to tinker a bit more. Our SCOP hit 3.83 but our recent COP has been 2.47 in these -10 nights. Still much to learn. I need to revisit Heatgeek training on my Daikin controller
Have you got an advanced NEST product? Think their basic one is on off and not weather compensated / modulating.
@@Lewis_Standing the weather compensation is within the Daikin HP. I haven’t disconnected the Nest yet. So I’m at a half way point. I think Heatgeek showed how to remove the room thermostat from the Daikin controls. But I’m yet to do that
Always more to learn! It makes me wonder how uneducated we are about gas boilers when we put so much effort in to optimise heat pumps!
@@TomBray-LowCarbonLifestyle it’s a very good point Tom. It does require installers to be able to educate their customers or their customers to be a bit geek like me 😊
@@Lewis_Standing yes I think it’s an advanced. Only one available in UK. I still think I have to switch it out of the ASHP circuit
How can we expect people to understand and be bothered to fiddle with the settings of a heatpump? With all other systems you set the room temperature and that’s it - no heat curves etc etc. Installers just want to install, take the money and leave. Manufacturers manuals are technical and not designed for users. Things will need to change if the average person is to be persuaded to adopt a heatpump. I say this as a heatpump owner with four years experience and an engineering degree 😆
It’s a fair point Ken, I guess people with heat pumps today are to some extent early adopters. I hope there is a steep learning curve so the things we experience the next people don’t need to.
I would say the work that Heat Geek appears to be doing looks like it could be shaping the industry in a positive manner. Training installers well and giving advice to consumers, I hope, will help future installations.
I guess I’m into the detail because that’s my character… could’ve just left it as it was and not done a video about it…!
Great video Tom. I think its better to set back the flow temp rather than the room temp and leave it running. Have tried both ways in our house and seems to work better doing it with flow temp as the room temp method meant the system water had dropped a long way so when the heatpump comes back on it has to get right back up first. Works for us
I'd say we desperately need a much steeper 'teaching curve'! I've recently had a Daikin system installed and, although I pretty pleased with it overall, it is desperately complicated (for the average person, who's not too interested in efficiency, they just want to be warm) to tweak. It's doubly frustrating when the controllers on the RUclips videos (of which there are thousands!) seem to behave differently from my own.
Could the manufacturers not have three simple preset modes: low/med/high efficiency ? This would help your 'average Joe' to easily switch between the different modes when outside temperatures change significantly? In depth adjusting could still be possible for those with the knowledge and patience to keep resetting their systems.
This is one area that AI can help with. Every house is different, so setting the heat curve and flow temperature is a matter of trial and error. Automatic adjustment that learns how to hit heat requirements in the most efficient way would be a godsend.
Hi Tom,
Have you looked into third party controllers, setbacks and heat curves etc could be confusing for some, Homely is one I’m thinking of that looks easy for the switch on and forget people
Hi Tom,
I've just found your channel, as we're about to have a re-survey from Octopus, so I've been soaking up all of the RUclips videos on heat pumps that I can find.
This is a great video and you're a natural presenter! If we do have a Heat Pump very soon (fingers crossed), then I'll definitely use the excellent advice in this video. Thanks for the information. Phil
Hi Tom great video. I find that set back of flow temp is better and leave the heat pump running all the time as room temp set back the whole system temp drops to ambient and then it takes more energy to get back up. Dropping the flow temp by 5 degrees seems to work for us. We have a 220year old stone house so always best to keep the fabric warm as you need to re warm that before the air temp rises. Worth a try?
Great stuff. Cheers John. I run our heat pump similarly now. Just means we’ve got a warm house a lot of the time! I’m planning an autumn efficiency video because I think we’re much higher now
Tom
I don’t have a ASHP - but some comparisons can be made with gas boilers in so much modern condensing boilers have an optimum efficiency curve and it seems to be turning down the flow temperature but give it longer to do it’s job. It seems to work at my sons house. My house is warm air so the temperature of the boiler is already low and I also have a set back temperature and it has saved about 10%. However this year my stat does not go above 19 degrees. 18 is the norm for the morning rising to 18.5 in the afternoon to the max early evening. As we are retired we need to heat our home all day and use throw over blankets to lift our personal comfort which works very well. Warm up time is rapid with warm air but correspondingly cool down is equally rapid as there is no retained residual heat. I’m hoping that in our new bungalow we will be able to up our comfort level once we have changed the gas boiler for an ASHP. Your vids are priceless thank you. Regards Mike
Hi Mike, thanks for commenting - yes definitely some lessons on efficiency for a gas boiler too. My father in law lives in a house with a warm air system too. Lots of issues with it!
Really kind of you to message and I am pleased videos are helpful / enjoyable!
Tom
Mechanical engineer here,
The need for a more conservative set buck temp is particular to the emmiter size, so it is not really true for every heat pump insulation. For example the addition of a just one fancoil unit, can significantly reduce the reheat time, without any need for water temperature increase. The only considerations are the bit of noice and air movement, however I find both pleasant during a cold winter morning. Also the SCOP can get quite a boost with the continuous use of such unit across the heatting season, combined with a lower weather condensation curve.
Hi Sevastos - thanks for the comment, hello from a Mechanical Engineer also.
You make a fair point about emitter size. In this video I am reporting my experience in my situation, adding in a fan coil unit, or convector radiator, or more radiator surface area would reduce reheat time (i.e higher emitter output) but not possible for my system at the moment. This would allow a lower flow temperature and higher efficiency.
But with my system, increasing the set back temperature has allowed me to lower the flow temperature and maintain comfort
Thanks for your comment
Tom
@@TomBray-LowCarbonLifestyle Exactly! What is the imitation preventing you from such changes?
@@sevastoskoumtzis5401 Cost of changing an existing system is the main one.
Although I could add a product like this - www.smart-secure.co.uk/shop-by-brand/speed-comfort/ to help increase radiator output and drop flow temp even further
@@TomBray-LowCarbonLifestyle Yes! I've seen those, they seam pretty nice and they can be a very simple fix for so meany people with ASHPs, however, even though there is no installation cost, they are a bit pricey compared to a dedicated fan coul unit, considering the significantly higher output of such units. Btw, AtoAHPs do the exact same thing, because they are a fan coil themselves.😉
Yep! We tend to favour air to water in housing in the UK, because we are used to radiators providing our heat, but air to air heat pumps definitely have a place, particularly where we may need some cooling too.
Thanks for the comments
I leave my night time setback to no more than 3 degrees C as it use resistance heating in the morning to boost for the daytime setting if the heat pump cannot keep up with demand. Heat pumps need to run more and do less the more constant the better. The other way to improve would be to warm up the outside air lol which many have done by using an enclosure that heat with sun but still allows enough air to flow when needed. Also 4 solar panels would be enough to run a heat pump and now many models have direct solar panel connections. Cheers
Just got my heat pump installed an d running in Sep 24. I’ve been doing exactly the same as you and I’m down to 0.75 heat curve and improving efficiency all the time. One thing that I’m trying now is circulation pump settings. ( We have a buffer unfortunately). Have you tried high, medium and low speed settings? High is noisy through the pipes but seems to be best, I’m trying medium now. Low is nice and quiet but I’m still experimenting.
Hi James, something I have thought about too! And yes I have tried different settings on our circulating pump, I did not notice significant changes in efficiency when changing the settings though.
When you said high seems best what do you mean? Is that more comfortable / higher efficiency?
I was trying to work out the theory of what we are doing when we change the pump speed, higher pump speed means more mass of water flowing through the system, which I think will mean more heat can be deposited through radiators. Although intuitively, if water spends more time in a radiator, it would be able to give off more heat to surroundings before returning to the heat pump.....
So, in the end, I am not sure what is best...! I am sure there is a right answer.
I monitored the energy impact of each setting and couldnt see a discernible trend...
What are you thinking?
Tom
@@TomBray-LowCarbonLifestyle Hi Tom. It’s early days for me but it seems that medium speed is best for me. I’m getting between x3.5 and x4 at Sept/Oct temperatures. Also the noise levels are more tolerable, the pump is close to all three bedrooms in our bungalow. For our situation it looks as though the medium speed setting is best for efficiency, low speed seems to be worse but outside temperature differences could mask what’s going on. I will try lowering our heat curve setting a bit, but really I’m quite happy with it now. My wife thinks I’m nuts but what does she know!
@@jamesguy7396 sounds like you might be getting to some good settings, may need slight changes as it gets cooler in december / january....
For the record, my wife thinks similarly of me...!
@@TomBray-LowCarbonLifestyle Have you tried removing the 2nd pump and the buffer. If the volume/flow/heat dissipation are enough then this will improve your efficiency.
Hi Tom what flow rate and thermostat setting would consider the best
Hi Peter, we tend to heat our home to 20°C. The flow temperature from the heat pump changes with external temperature on a 'weather compensation' curve that would be different for each home
Tom
Thanks for that tom
I have used all the same adjustments as you on my ecodan - my degree days were worse early part of the year between 22 and 23. Over the whole year I was 20 kw difference - Dec 23 was very expensive in Scotland last year, just as my fixed ended…. 250 kw more
Well communicated useful information, thanks
Thanks for the comment! Pleased to hear it has been useful!
How do you calculate the efficiency of the hp ?
Hello! We have a heat meter and electricity meter connected to our heat pump. The calc is just heat out divided by electricity in. Which would give a Coefficient of performance (COP)
Hope that makes sense?
A lot of systems will come with an inbuilt calculation. And the Vaillant system does but we also had independent 3rd party metering
Tom
@@TomBray-LowCarbonLifestyle thank you Tom
I use an LG, but going on your chart, the equivalent would be 0.6. Most of the time it runs at 32 to 34 degrees. At about 10 external and 21 internal. With a COP of 5.1
I also had to pester the installer to activate the weather curve, as they had set it to a constant 48!!!
That is now about half the price to run than the oil boiler we took out.
Thanks for sharing Mike, that is a great COP! Really frustrating that the installer did not set it up for efficiency. But great to hear your costs have halved!! Must feel great not to worry about oil deliveries!!
Tom
Good work. Getting the best from heat pumps is a journey. perhaps software will do it in the future. this December has really stress tested our system. we have had previous cops of 5-6 plummet to 2.7 at night (-5) but it has shown you can heat a house to lovely warmth even when my neighbours are cold even with their gas boilers. Although a couple of weeks of the year our hp will cost a fraction more than gas, when looked at annually we are on track to save ~£400 on gas. our weakness has not been the heatpump but the radiators and insulation. if we could insulate more. (we will try) its a double win, flow temp goes down and cop goes up AND heat demand drops so some kind of square law relationship i guess. Bigger rads are just a single win, as the lower flow boosts COP but wont reduce the heat demand. Although rads are cheaper than a lot of types of retrofit insulation.
I have found this blog has amazing info.
community.openenergymonitor.org/t/vaillant-arotherm-owners-thread/21891
great to compare the cop at various flows and air temps to see if thing are working as Vaillant claim. the PDF is in Czech but the tables are legible for all models , power outputs flows etc. why its not available in English is anyone's guess!
Hi Joe - what a fantastic comment! So much helpful information, especially a link to that forum!
Our efficiency has plummeted a bit the last 10 days too, unseasonably cold!!
I’m only at a £35-40 saving compared to gas for the last 6 months. Which is better than nothing!
Tom
Hi Tom how do I get in to the installation setting as mine has a code to enter it says 0000
Hi David, might be a question for your installer (or you might be able to find the answer online) our code is just 00…
What kind of heat pump do you have?
Hi Tom I've just found a video on it and it looks like 000 is the factory setting but my installer has changed the code so I can't alter any of the settings.
That’s frustrating. They are not willing to share the details? I wonder whether you could try standard numbers like 1234…?
Hi Tom all sorted I've cracked the code! I've got a vaillant heat pump and my thermostat is set to 21 degrees as my desired temperature however it has been reaching 23 degrees what's the best way to keep at the required temperature is it to turn my trv down from 5 to 4?
@@davidbillingham166 Top man, well done.
That's an interesting conundrum. I wonder whether your weather compensation curve is set a little high? If the system is heating past the set point either you could lower the curve, or you could change the 'Room Temp Mod.' setting to 'Expanded', I understand this will adjust the flow temperature slightly to get to the set temperature and then turn off the system when that is reached. This is the setting I have our system on, as well the 'adaptive heat curve' set to off.
I'd be interested in understanding what yours is set to. And compare all the settings! That is assuming you are using the sensoComfort controller like me - www.vaillant.co.uk/downloads/aproducts/controls/sensocomfort/vrc-720-gb-0020287900-00-1714662.pdf
Thanks Tom, really interesting and food for thought.
I've not done any tinkering on our Samsung system yet, but I'm tempted to have a try now, as the flow temp has been nudging 50 degrees on occasion over the last week or so.
I've set our system to only vary 2 degrees (18 over night and during day when no one home, 19 in the morning, 20 in the evening) which seems to work well.
Our hot water is set at 50, but I'm going to try dropping this by a couple of degrees. My only concerns here though, is that during the weekly legionnaires heat cycle, the system would have to work harder for longer, would this counteract the minimal savings achieved over the week by having a lower water temp?
I can't be sure but the lower water temp has a few benefits. A higher cop and less energy to get to temprature. But also less heat loss from the cylinder during the week. So this might make up the few degrees extra the legonella cycle need to raise. Also if you are not on a time of day tariff run the legonella mid afternoon for highest air temp. It really helps the cop. People run it in the night for cheap electric but it's not the energy efficent choice.
I agree with every Joe said!
On the flow temp, I suspect 50 might be reasonable when it has been so cold but should be much lower now the cold snap has ended
But moving a heat curve down as low as possible, until the heat pump can’t k you warm, is going to maximise efficiency
@@TomBray-LowCarbonLifestyle Really does depend on your family needs, size and quality of water cylinder, but experiment with setting down as low as 45.
Thanks for the tips
No problem, hope it’s helpful! Thanks for commenting
Nice... well done
Cheers John, thanks for the support!
Tom, the HP should be running full time, in order to be efficient. No setback temp for the night
Hi Adrian, I think it’s a bit more nuanced than that. A system may be more efficient, but if we don’t need the heat we shouldn’t be wasting it. So when we are in bed overnight we have a set back as we don’t need the heat.
Our heat pump has been fairly efficient despite set back, but we don’t have a large set back, we go from 19 in the day to 17.5 at night.
Tom
I think of it like fuel economy vs fuel efficiency in a (petrol) car: it's most efficient (power:energy) to floor it in a low gear, but you can drive more economically (distance:energy) overall by being very light on the accelerator.
That said, it can make sense to keep the heat pump on all the time at a lower set point than to cycle it on and off (letting the house get completely cold between cycles).
Tom we have had a heat pump fitted recently, we are being told not to tinker with the settings as they control them from their end. The office. We are getting it commissioned shortly were I assume he will set the various settings. What are your thoughts on this
Controlling from their office sounds a bit odd. Who is the installer?
I would be happy for an installer to set the system up properly. And if you can communicate you want to maximise efficiency they should make sure it is on weather compensation
Does seem a bit strange though
Tom
Hi we've had our heat pump fitted by global energy and they do the same. They can control it from their office. As I'm new to all this I'm taking it for granted they have commissioned it properly
So do you change the HW temp from 48 to 42 manually every time? And the heat curve manually seasonally? Seems like a pain. And sounds like HPs need to get SMART so that flow temp, heat curve, etc, are always changing and always optimum.
Hi Darren, can’t quite remember what I said on this video a couple of years ago, but I can set the HW temp on the controller when I want to.
And don’t really change the heat curve any more.
The system definitely could be smarter. and we don’t have the gateway that connects our controls to the internet which is not great!
I've set the setback temperature similar to your setup, it seems to make sense that the heat pump does not work too hard to recover the lost heat. I'm seriously thinking about lowering the DHW to 48. To be honest, outside of morning showers and maybe a little dish washing, we really don't use much DHW during the day. Will the slight drop down make much difference? Love the videos.
Thanks Mark.
The set back conversation is interesting, am I just using more energy heating when I don’t need it…? And therefore could just start heating a bit earlier to get to 19 when we want it?
How much storage do you have for DHW? I’d say 48° should be high enough and if you were heating a big tank to higher temperatures that could use a lot less energy…?
Thanks for the comment
Tom
What’s your heat curve set to Tom?
Hiya Mark - this autumn is been about 0.55. But I’m always tinkering…! And running the system in a different manner to the past.
I think averaging COP of 3.8+ so far this heating season.
How are you getting on?
Tom
Yes I’m the same. I keep tinkering and I’m also averaging 3.8 for the year since Jan 2023.
My heat curve is set to 0.60
What temp do you heat your hot water to?
@@TomBray-LowCarbonLifestyle it was 48 degrees in warmer months but I’ve just upped it to 50. I also do a legionnaires cycle up to 60° every Monday night on my cheap rate.
You could account for that by a slightly warmer autum/winter
I mention that after about 7mins - ruclips.net/video/pqoEcgqHdFQ/видео.htmlsi=e3zdHzhurTUe08k0&t=426
Not worried about legionnaires?
Hi Richard, not really for a few reasons, we tend to refresh the full tank on most days so fresh water each day, I tend to lift the temperature of the tank to 60°C once a month or so when the octopus agile tariff is negative or low cost which should deal with any growth, and we store normally at 45°-47°C which should be a big high for the most growth.
If we ever moved out of this house, I’d reprogram the weekly pasteurisation cycle though.
Tom
@@TomBray-LowCarbonLifestyle I agree with you and do something similar.
Now if HPs were smart then they could automatically run a legionnaires cycle once a month when it "sees" the overnight tariff rate drop low. 😉
How much is the set back saving you?
Next experiment might be reducing the set back to see if it enables an even lower heat curve.
It’s a good question - I haven’t really thought a set back as a saving, more for comfort whilst we sleep we don’t need the heat. But I guess it does give a reduction in energy use.
Overnight the temperature is likely to be lower and therefore efficiency lower, but on Octopus tariffs the price of electricity cheaper so maybe should boost temperature overnight….
The thing about reducing the set back is that it pushed me to increase the heat curved to climb the ramp and get back to temperature in the morning. If we don’t have much set back the heat curve can be low and just add small amounts of heat over a longer time.
There will be an optimised set up for each house and preference, im sure…
Maybe the new octopus cosy / double dip tariff might change the approach as well….
Always tinkering!
Id say your setback is aprox perfect, i tried running heat most on during cheap electricity but its useless since its heating when you dont need it
Hi,
Economy you achive it is also because the exterior temperature was also higher then last year.
Hi Ciprian, yes you are right, I mention this in the video when I include analysis of kWh per degree day. We still used less energy, per degree day, than the previous year.
Thanks
Tom
19c inside your house? Damn. I tried optimising energy usage and found i cant live at lower temp and would rather switch off unnecesary rooms, heat for less hours daily than lower the room temp
Hi Boz - what temperature do you find comfortable?
I guess heating for less hours would lower the room temp…? But switching off rooms you aren’t using makes sense, it will probably mean your heating system is less efficient overall but may mean you use less energy…
It also helps to have competent heat-pump installers!
Absolutely, with a meaningful handover and support after installation
The biggest thing that I have learned from the these videos is that if you have mains gas, ASHP may be cheaper or more expensive than gas . (I'm not including the initial high cost of installation of ASHP which will also needs to be factored into the cost. eg £15000 over a 10 year life adds £1500 a year.)
ASHP will only be better or comparable to gas if you keep it on permanently in the colder 6 months of the year. ie if you go out to work every week day and are out of the house for say 10 hours a day, you still have to keep the heat pump on to keep an empty house warm. They are extremely inefficient at providing a big initial boost when the house has cooled down a bit. So if you are at home all day, for every day of the week eg retired, housewife etc it will be great. If you are at work all day it will be more expensive.
I think that’s a bit of an oversimplification. Heat pumps can reheat buildings quickly if set up to run in that manner, however operate more efficiently to keep temperatures at a more constant state, minimising any set back when you are out of the house (gas boilers the same, but we don’t seem to care about boiler efficiency).
Heat pumps can be programmed to run as you are looking for.
With the latest government grant I would be very surprised if there were many £15k heat pump installations but your point stands, there may be some additional cost to factor in.
With a heat pump we have multiple additional benefits, better comfort, better local air quality, maybe lower running costs, minimising impact of climate change, minimising reliance on foreign gas etc.
I guess the question is … are we happy to keep burning fossils, with all the negative impact of doing so, or could we imagine a better future? And if we could have a better future, what role do heat pumps play? As, from where I am standing, they are the only method of heating buildings without burning fossil fuels.
Tom
@@TomBray-LowCarbonLifestyle The simple reason why we have to focus on optimisation of a HP is that not optimising a boiler install can only really lose about 10% efficiency, while a HP can easily lose 200%. So if you get a HP very wrong then it will cost much more than a boiler to run.
Glad to see your progress Tom, steep learning curve isnt it? Just one comment regarding your hot water. Be carful about running at such low temperatures all the time. I would heat the hot water store to at least 60deg once a week to make sure that any legionella is killed off. A lot of heat pumps can do this and have setting to automate it, but not all do and its worth mentioning to your viewer to be aware of this.
Hi Mark, the pasteurisation cycle is programmed in automatically and would raise the water temperature above 60°C once a week.
I must admit, I think this is excessive, we cycle the water in the tank almost daily, so there is fresh water in the tank each day.
Have you seen Heat Geek's video on legionella? ruclips.net/video/oJeyc_cGIMU/видео.html
@@TomBray-LowCarbonLifestyle I agree with you if storage is cycled regularly the the risk is minimal and shower heads are actually more of a problem than the stored water. However not all households use that much water, and a lot wont be aware of the risk, or even have a pump that has the feature to pasteurize like modern pumps now do. So all im saying is that if people want to keep their stored water at low temps, they need to be aware of any possible risks and set up their systems according to their use pattern.
@@markvk42 Hi Mark, it is a fair point, I wasn't advocating for removing the pasteurisation cycle that will be part of a heat pump installation settings (although heat geek does). Once a week the temperature in the tank can be lifted above 60°C but that doesn't mean you can't normally store your water at much lower temperatures.
Interesting video. I fear though you will confuse many of your viewers - just as I think you pretty much confused yourself.
Once you have fine tuned the compensation curve and settled on a proven value - this should work at all outside temperatures - well at least to the design outside temperature. If you have to ‘tweak’ the curve as the mercury plummets it suggests your emitters are undersized.
Hi Norman - thanks for engaging with the video, I think there a few factors at play when I am talking about weather compensation curves
1) although flow temperature and outside temperature are linked, this does not account for wind speed, so there is a risk, on windy days, that heat loss is higher for the same external temperature.
2) I am not able to change the gradient of the curve, just move it up and down through the sensocomfort controller. If I had more control of the curve then finer tuning for our home would be possible. Although I think that would also mean I played with the settings more often, because I can, rather than need to!
3) I think you are probably right that a couple of our rads are undersized
Sorry to confuse viewers!
Tom
@ Yes, Viessmann probably has the best w/c controls. A bit academic for your circumstances at the moment.😉
Yes. Easy to do.
You could have installed a cylo® from Remit Zero is an emission-free replacement for domestic, gas and oil-fired boilers.
Air to water Heat pumps are a waste of money. You got screwed. Happy New year.
Looks like an interesting product. Although electric boilers like these will use at least 3x the electricity as a heat pump, so there is a risk you are locking in high costs. And you require a large electricity supply.
But these do have a path to net zero as the grid decarbonises.
Not sure why you think I got screwed or that heat pumps are a waste of money, but thanks for sharing Cylo with me.
Tom
@@TomBray-LowCarbonLifestyle
You are wrong. Do your own research. The proof I provided keeps getting removed
Hi@@billyflanagan9657 I have done my own research, spend my work life and spare time working with low carbon technology. I am not sure what you think keeps getting removed or what point you think you are making...? Happy to listen to it...!
Thanks
Tom
200 kwhs is only about £2.13 worth of gas lol
Wow your tariff is cheap! Just over 1p per kWh?!
At the UK's energy price cap 200 kWh of gas would be £14.84.
Thanks for engaging with the video
Tom
SET IT AND FORGET IT!
I do love a tinker though..!
Its probably far more economical to run your heating off the heat pump and your hot water from a combi boiler.
Hi Manoo42, I suspect you are right as efficiency for hot water tends to be lower than heating. Although we don’t have a combi anymore and wouldn’t install one again.
It has been great to completely remove gas for both!
@@TomBray-LowCarbonLifestyle I would never remove a gas boiler, too much like govt propaganda sheep.
Hi Manoo - not propaganda or sheep to get a heat pump, it’s more or less the only way we can reduce emissions linked to heat at our homes. And a really important technology for us in the UK.
Gas boilers are the big challenge in responding to the climate and energy crises
Tom
@@TomBray-LowCarbonLifestyle Sad and depressing that you think there is a climate 'crisis'! The energy crisis was orchestrated by the WEF to push up prices to make renewables look reasonable...You really should look a bit deeper than the MSM propaganda and stop being so gullible. Maybe you could start by wondering why every climate change prediction ever made has failed to come true...every single one, why do you think that might be...?
Hi manoo - I’m not sure what you are reading but it seems to be misleading you. The 8 hottest years ever have been the last 8, extreme weather is impacting people all around the world, including through horrendous flooding in places like Pakistan in 2022. This is no conspiracy but risks millions of lives in the next few decades.
Could you clarify what predictions climate modelling has got wrong?
The world has changed, and changed at a rate that risks life as we know it
Tom
No need to bring in politics into this!
Hi a.nefertiti6980 - me wanting to use less gas so we buy less from violent regimes is ‘politics’? Not sure about that one.
But yes, i am an engaged citizen trying to build a better society, everything we do is ‘politics’ so happy to impact the world around me where I can. Amazed you would try to silence my voice!
Thanks
Tom
Who is the violent regime here? That of Genocide Joe! Would the USA allow Russia to set up camp in Mexico on its borders, and to install a puppet regime in its capital city, as happened in Kiev in 2014? When you consider Russia "a gas station with a country," you come up wih many wrong conclusions and map out all the bad decisions that have led to Slavs killing Slavs to the tune of half a million at least, and counting. The US and the Collective West have a lot to answer for in Ukraine and beyond. Think Gaza!
Is it necessary to bring politics into this? Ukraine “solidarity” 🤦♂️
Absolutely! The more energy we use the higher the value of oil and gas… the main thing funding Russian aggression. We’re linked to the whole world through fossil fuel markets
Correct leave politics out of it. I support Russia because Ukraine instigated the war with the United States
@@billyflanagan9657My very thought!
I went to a heat pump as well, also partly in solidarity for Ukraine. Poetin is the devil himself, a Hitler x 10, a bloodthirsty tyrant. Anything to help stop him is good.
European countries (compared to UK) are way ahead in terms of optimised heating in winter. Once their heating comes on it pretty much stays on all the time just ticking over. The current situation has forced us all to look closer how we do things and squeeze every drop out of our system. Only you will know what's is best for your house once you have tried it.
On the cost of energy, I remember as a child seeing on TV our Govt announcing the UK would not be short of CHEAP gas for the next 200yrs. It's till there..... but wait, our Govt has just signed an agreement with USA to import their fracked LNG which will be shipped in by tankers using low grade polluting fuel oil.
We have wind farms shut down because of excess wind and production (we still need to pay them for their downtime) as the grid cannot deal with the extra generation and there is nowhere to store it. What a 1st World Problem we have !! DROP THE UNIT PRICE, so people could heat their homes at time of need this winter and the elderly won't die whilst that energy can be absorbed.
So much is wrong.
Good article:
www.linkedin.com/posts/patrick-robertson-80ab01204_energy-environment-tax-activity-7004454549927186433-dwRl
I agree there is a lot wrong with our energy system and a lot that could be done to incentivise low emissions technology.
I don’t agree with the argument in that linked in article. The absurd profits that the major oil and gas companies have been making seem very right to tax, and many of the industry leaders have been calling for it.
Particularly as expansion of oil and gas exploration would be bad for our long term.
Tom