Your like my hero! I’m 24 and I’ve watched way over 40 hours of your vids while building my 700r4 with Monster Transmissions SS Mega Monster-in-a-Box kit with corvette 2-3 servo, full billet aluminum 4th servo and cap, shift kit, 5-gear heavy duty planetarys, extra wide Red Eagle Racing band, Koleen heat-treated heavy-duty steels, Red eagle Race clutches, .500 boost valve and built pump, and I painted up the case very nice, and also am going to be installing on it and into the truck a mild 2200 performance oriented stall converter (also from Monster Transmissions and Performance) and have also been doing it all with you ❤. It’s going into Ole Red my 1991 Chevy K1500 Z71. I’d love to come meet you one day! I’m Wil Ragsdale I’m 24 from Acworth, Ga. You’d love me. I’m super easy to find on Facebook!
Hi Will, thank you for the kind words and best of luck with the build! Sounds like you have everything you need so it should turn out great. One thing I'll mention is that if you find your line pressure rise is insufficient but your TV cable geometry is correct then you'll want to install the Sonnax TV plunger and sleeve kit in place of the factory TV plunger and sleeve in the valve body. Insufficient line rise is caused by a worn TV plunger/sleeve in many cases...just putting it on your radar for when you're ready to fire it up and do your line pressure testing (or you can just install it now to eliminate that area as a potential problem for you).
I have also heard of people using a cup plug to block the 3rd acc in the case to prevent leaks. I personally haven't tried it because i think the capsule works just fine but I would think it would have adverse effects. Great Videos by the way!
Hi 325lsnoma, yep have heard that as well and like you, I have personally never done that either...In all the 700R4s and 4L60Es I have built over the years, I recall one transmission where that third acc check ball capsule was actually leaking (and not due to debris getting wedged in the capsule). Sonnax makes some sort of capsule for it but I've never used it either. Thank you for watching!
Where were you 4+ years ago when I rebuilt my 700r4??? lol. I had to use the GM manuals, precision transmission videos, and performabuilt videos to build mine and it’s still holding up behind a mild 410 hp or so SBC. But your information would have been helpful. I will enjoy watching these anyway.
Lol! Can't do nothing about the past but now you know where to go for 700R4 tech resources if you ever need to either go back into yours or rebuild someone else's like a buddy or family member's transmission. Thank you for watching!
Nick, can you run the factory deep 4l60e pan and filter on a 700R4? Just curious was thinking about this while working on my truck today. Thanks, Steve
Hi Steve, thank you for watching..I wouldn't recommend it as you won't have any interference fit between the filter and pan. The pan, via that slight interference fit, keeps the filter from falling out...If it were to become partially or completely dislodged, you'd have no movement...I'd install a B&M aluminum deep pan...Much better than any factory pan, 3 extra quarts of capacity and has the filter pick up extension tube to ensure the filter stays put.
I run the 4l60 deep truck pan with drain plug and the truck filter works fine at 90K + miles. I have done this on 3 cars (street Rods) now and zero issues
Enjoy watching your videos. Was wondering what your opinion was on high mileage transverse GM transmissions on like a '95 Buick Century where the fluid has never been changed. I'm hearing that once the magnet is fully saturated and there is black film on the dipstick that it's a gamble to do a service. Would a flush with say 8oz of Marvel Mystery Oil driven for 500 miles etc be a bad idea? Thanks in advance
Hi TenSecondBuick - thank you for watching as always! I am not a fan of bottle fixes and don't think any of them work (they would have to magically reline worn applied elements like clutch discs and bands for them to truly repair worn components). I also don't subscribe to the belief that performing a transmission fluid service (pan drop, flush or both) makes any difference...Some say that it disturbs accumulated crud, especially in the torque converter and circulates it everywhere in the transmission but that's already happening anyways...Others say that the built up crud helps seal valve trains in the VB and pump and flushes remove it all... If that's the case, it is a temporary condition as normal fluid movement would recirculate the 'crud' during operation anyways...So if your transmission starts to slip or fail after doing a service, it was on it's way out and failure was inevitable...
I pulled the valve body off my son’s 92 700r4 and the was a check ball in the vb on top of the separator plate just in front of the 2 balls that are side by side. Have you ever seen this.?? It’s a goodwrench labeled rebuilt unit
Hi MLR, There should have been two 1/4-inch check balls on the valve body itself and the 5/16" TV relief / safety check ball that GM began to install in 1984 or 85... Thank you for watching!
what do you think of Sonnax Pinless 1-2 or 3-4 accumulator piston kit? Or any experience? --> would you rather go with the 3-4 "double stack piston" you showed or the pinless option? (79 Camaro about 450HP street/ strip)
Should be fine...anything real hp, block the 4th acc and leave the bore empty. You can use a cup plug and if you decide its a bit too firm, simply drill through the cup plug with a small bit then install the sonnax pinless kit w/spring
Great series of videos. Followed your lead with a trango sk shift kit.on my rebuild. Up shifting seams to be fine but when coming into a lower speed zone like 50 mph to a 30 mph the 4th gear stays engaged until just below 30 mph, when I get on the gas to maintain 30mph it lugs like a manual trans that is not shifted down. It will shift down as soon as the manual shifter is moved. Do you have any thought on this problem
Thank you, Lonepine55! Did these symptoms begin to occur only after you installed the shift kit or were they present prior to the shift kit? Did you modify the governor in any way?
Did these symptoms appear before or only after the shift kit install (see my initial reply)? Another question is - was modification required? What vehicle, application (DD, street / strip, racing, etc) and what converter stall? Most of the time, you don't have to modify the governor unless you require later shift points owing to a higher stall converter behind an engine with a performance cam.
@@nickstransmissions The transmission in the 1955 GMC in my profile pic with a mild 383 sbc and 373 gears in the back its just a cruiser. The torque converter is a 1800-2000. I followed the Transgo SK 700-G instruction and yes I changed the springs in the governor to the high performance springs. The original reason for rebuilding the tranny was that the bearing behind the front reaction gear set failed and destroyed that gear set. It shifted fine before the failure, I wish I would of left the valve train alone. Looking for help to complete the project
I see...Based on your gear ratio and engine (383), the governor is likely not your problem. I have never used that kit, never thought it was necessary as I can get modify the valve body as needed on my own. Sounds like 3-4 shift or throttle valve may be sticking but just a guess... Your best bet may be to simply grab another 700R4 valve body from the junk yard and pop it on, see what happens (esp if you didn't keep track of where all the original springs went)...Just check all the valve trains on the replacement valve body, make sure everything moves freely. Grab a set of gaskets for the separator plate as well, in case one or both get torn. Also make sure you get a valve body identical to the one you currently have, if you're working on an 82-87 700R4 (early)...If you install an early 700R4 on a late case (1988+), you'll need to plug a couple holes - if this becomes the situation, just visit Transgo's website, click on their 700-P separator plate's page then go to 'Documents'. They have the instructions there showing you what holes need to be plugged based on what valve body you have (early or late). Lastly, (if you haven't already done so) do a pressure test prior to any road test. This ensures you confirm that your TV cable set up and adjustment is correct...TV cables slightly out of adjustment can lead to a variety of drivability symptoms, including premature clutch pack failure, as you know.
I rebuilt my 1991 4L60 and did some upgrades and modifications. The transmission works but there seems to be a problem. Just before the car comes to a stop, I feel the transmission engage and "pulls" the car to a stop instead of only the brakes making the car stop. Anyone have this kind of experience? Any help in solving this problem would be appreciated. Thank you.
Hmmm. I wouldnt think a deficiency like that would be able to be overcame but admittedly I never use transgo's boost valves, only Sonnax or the ones from Transstar.
I just swapped a 700r4 in my Jeep behind a 6.0 LS. I believe the case and valve body is a 1992. Currently I have a very weak 2-3 shift during moderate- heavy acceleration. Any tips on how to firm that up?
Yep, I cover exactly what you should do in the video. Watch the section on shift calibration via the spacer plate and let me know if you have any follow up questions and we can go from there.
I just pulled apart my 700r4 and found a broken light blue spring and a broken orange spring in my 1-2 accumulator. Would this cause a no shift issue from 1st to 2nd?
Hi James, thanks for watching...Unless the spring fragments tore the piston's seal, it's not likely. Those springs are Transgo's 1-2 acc spring package that come in all their shift kits and I see them broken frequently such that I have stopped using them and now use either the original factory springs or the Sonnax standard spring in the 1-2 acc location (will install a pinless acc piston as well on performance builds).
@nickstransmissions it does have a transgo shift kit in it from a previous owner. It was driving fine and it suddenly stopped shifting out of 1st gear. Tv valve is not stuck and governor gear looks fairly new. Seems like I might have to dig deeper. Thank you for responding
You're welcome...1-2 shift valve and 1-2 throttle valve would be my next places followed by air-checking the servo assembly to see if it applies the band at the 2nd feed orifice in the case.
@nickstransmissions sounds like the transmission is coming out of the truck then. Was trying to avoid pulling it, but looks like that is my next step. Thank you
You don't have to pull the transmission to do the above suggested checks...Just drop the VB, aux-VB, if so equipped, spacer plate and gaskets - don't loose the check balls in the case as they will be sitting on the spacer plate and spacer plate-to-case gasket if you carefully lower the spacer plate down to the ground from the case belly. Once the case worm tracks are exposed, go ahead and apply air into the 2nd feed orifice in the case and watch the band to see if it applies...If it does not apply/move then the problem is in the servo, which also doesn't require the trans to come out( you may have to lower it to gain better access to the servo bore by removing the rear x-member).
Hi JRay, If you're referring to TCI's constant pressure VB, I don't have any idea and I don't use them unless building for a race-only application. Constant max line pressure is very hard on parts, particularly the pump and transmission will not last all that long. For racing, it doesn't matter as the transmission comes out periodically for a refresh or swap depending on what's going on...But for a street-driven vehicle, there's no need for them where the reward isn't worth the risk, IMO.
Hey Nick what would cause a 3rd gear start? My transmission up shifts through all gears as it should, detent down shift from 4th to 3rd but won't return to 1st on coast down when coming to a stop in D or OD. If I have the gear selection in 2 it will up shift to 2nd and back down to 1st. Reverse works as it should. Line pressure is correct, boosted in reverse, 1st, and 2nd, but D3 and OD when part to half throttle line pressure is erratic bouncing the needle then resting at 75+/- psi when off throttle.
Hi Socosoja, are you starting out in third gear to begin with or unable to downshift back to first gear after initially starting in 1st and upshifting through the drive cycle?
@@nickstransmissions starting out initially in first gear and running through the gear cycle, then it will not downshift all the way back down to first when stopped so when I take off I'm still in 3rd gear it won't go down to second even, or at least I believe it's 3rd gear it may be second gear start but it's definitely not first gear. When I'm sitting at a stop after running through the gears if I drop it in gear selection two or one the truck shifts down and you can fill it lunch forward and then we'll take off in first
How many upshifts do you have after the initial cycle (i.e. when you start out in a gear other than first)? If two upshifts, you're starting out in 2nd gear but if only one, your starting out in third. Sounds like valve body, specifically the 1-2 valve train. I'd also pull and check the governor to see if the gov valve is moving freely when you actuate the weights. Make sure the teeth aren't chipped/broken off. If either condition is present, pull the old gear and valve, polish the bore with a bench buddy and WD40 and then reinstall. Check freedom of movement..If all is well, put a new gear on it and reinstall (i'd replace the o-ring on the gov cover as well if it hasn't been replaced recently). Is this an aux valve body transmission or non-aux valve body?
@@nickstransmissions it is an auxiliary. 1991 model CJM. Whenever it's doing its thing starting in high gear I have not given the chance to up shift from there because I was hesitant on burning up clutch packs or the band. But last night whenever it tried to start in high gear I gave it wide open throttle and it down shifted to first gear and then ran through the gears like normal but then still did not Coast down the first gear when stopped. I have checked the governor, in fact I have been swapping the governor because I have five of them trying to tune in my shift points. Grinding weights changing Springs but changing governors never has a different outcome it's always the same and I have also swapped servo a couple times. I have a mix of Transco reprogramming 2&3 kit and sk700 shift kit springs. I did not drill out the holes in the worm tracks that the programming has you do I just use some valve body Springs and replaced the TV valve. I have no spring in modulated up shift, I have a Blue Spring in the 3-2 valve, I have the purple spring for the line bias, brown in accumulator valve, 1-2 accumulator housing has spring seat then blue spring, piston with feet up then orange spring. 3-4 accumulator is double piston. Just to give you some ideas what I'm doing. I have pulled the valve body a dozen times swapping Springs trying to get my shifts where I want them and the 1-2 shift valve train is never stuck. Maybe the valve body in general is what's the matter? I have others I can use but I was trying to find the cause of this because I'm not just into my transmission for the drivability and transportation, I'm really trying to master this as a builder so I want to know the ends and outs. I really do appreciate you taking the time to reply to me! Most of my knowledge on this unit (700r4 & 4l60e) has came from your videos and I read the forums on multiple sites too. Your awesome sir! Thank you
I am currently rebuilding a 700r4 and the 4th accumulator bleed orifice is drilled out. What if any would be the purpose of this 🤔 the failure originally was skipping 2nd gear it would go softly into 3rd at 33 to 3500 rpm
Hi Josh, sorry been slammed but I did watch your video - thanks for filming it...By removing the exhaust orifice restrictor, I'm thinking that will speed up the 4-3 downshift but admittedly I haven't seen that mod before in a 700R or 4L60E. It may also allow for greater flow of lube oil to the rear gear set since rear gear lube flows through the 4th accumulator piston bore.
@nickstransmissions I found several things I couldn't figure out like 2 waveys in the reverse input ...4 clutches in the 3/4 with steels stacked together at the bottom it checked out at 93 thousandth snug so...
Two wavy plates in the R/I? Interesting...Perhaps someone wanted to reduce the firmness in engagement...Same reaction to what you found in the 3-4 clutch...Bizarre (and at .093 clearance, way too much)...If you're rebuilding this unit, and you're working with a 097 or 716 forward drum (check the last three digits of the casting number), simply run a 4L65E clutch pack...You'll need to purchase the 4L65E apply and backing plate set along with the seven HE clutch plates and six lindered flat steels...Run clearance down to .025-.035 and reinstall the load release springs...Makes for a very nice upgraded clutch pack over the standard fare and not too much more on the spend...
Thanks for watching, Tony...This video and PT1 lays out all the information you need to determine what to do for a 2800 stall converter in your specific vehicle, intended use case, etc. Since feel is very subjective and means different things to different people, my general advice is to start conservative on feed hole sizes and work up so you don't go too big and the shift is too aggressive, vehicle no longer enjoyable to drive.
Hi Shalash, sounds like you may need Transgo's 700R4 Reprogramming kit, which has a full manual option. Here's the link to their webpage: transgo.com/product-details/700-reprogramming-gear-command/ You can find and review the instructions for the full-manual option via that link. Is this trans being built for or currently being used in a more specialized off-road application?
@@nickstransmissions Thanks for the answer Nick. I am contemplating on buying a Chevy/GMC pickup, but I want the same kind of Manual 2nd that you get in a Ford transmission - i.e. it is only 2nd gear, no 1st gear starts, whilst the rest of the ranges should function just like they do (although eliminating detent downshift in 4th is also worth following across).
You're welcome, Shalash...I think that Transgo kit should provide for what you're trying to accomplish...I'll see about doing a video on the topic if someone comes in looking for the same thing.
Hey, so I’ve put about 200 miles on my rebuilt 700r4. Line pressure is good. My 1-2 shift is nice and firm 2-3 is firm but my 3-4 shift is very soft and almost hard to feel. When the converter is locked in 4th it feels good and doesn’t slip at all. Tv cable is properly adjusted, I did so with a pressure gauge. Is this normal? My trans is a 1983 also when I rebuilt it I installed a transgo shift kit and a 2000 stall converter
Depends...What size did you drill your 3-4 feed orifice? Did you block or restrict the 4th accumulator feed? How's the condition of the servo cover - any observable wear?
The kit I used was part #887-SK700 on Jeggs I followed the instructions to a T. I installed the accumulator springs provided in the kit. The only drilling on the directions was for the valve body plate but my plate already had the holes drilled and the sizes matched the bit provided in the kit. And the servo parts and cover is brand new.
I think they have you drill the 2-3 and 3-4 to .110 and install the 4th acc return spring first the the piston upside down in the case which is fine. Id do what I usually do with the 4th and install the old piston (no seal) upside down and then the new 3-4 acc piston right side up with the seal, intermesh the legs (you didnt simply re-use your old 3-4 acc piston, did you?). That should keep accumulation to a minimum and firm up the 3-4 shift.
Hi Kevin, repair the plate using fitzall's kit. If the check ball continues to wear into the plate, it will eventually get stuck causing issues with your 1-2 shift. You can check out my video on the Fitzall kit here: m.ruclips.net/video/-Y_8nfNZse8/видео.html Thank you for watching!
@@nickstransmissions Hi Nick, it's actually the transmission case that is showing minor damage, not the plate. I'm not sure how to post a picture of it on here but it looks like the ball is trying to move towards the rear into the passageway from where the ball sits in the case. Maybe it's nothing to be concerned with.
Ah, ok...Ive actually never seen a case actually damaged by check balls but most will look like there's excessive wear at check ball seating locations. If you want, shoot a short video, upload it to youtube then reply here with the link and ill take a look...
Your like my hero! I’m 24 and I’ve watched way over 40 hours of your vids while building my 700r4 with Monster Transmissions SS Mega Monster-in-a-Box kit with corvette 2-3 servo, full billet aluminum 4th servo and cap, shift kit, 5-gear heavy duty planetarys, extra wide Red Eagle Racing band, Koleen heat-treated heavy-duty steels, Red eagle Race clutches, .500 boost valve and built pump, and I painted up the case very nice, and also am going to be installing on it and into the truck a mild 2200 performance oriented stall converter (also from Monster Transmissions and Performance) and have also been doing it all with you ❤. It’s going into Ole Red my 1991 Chevy K1500 Z71. I’d love to come meet you one day! I’m Wil Ragsdale I’m 24 from Acworth, Ga. You’d love me. I’m super easy to find on Facebook!
Hi Will, thank you for the kind words and best of luck with the build! Sounds like you have everything you need so it should turn out great. One thing I'll mention is that if you find your line pressure rise is insufficient but your TV cable geometry is correct then you'll want to install the Sonnax TV plunger and sleeve kit in place of the factory TV plunger and sleeve in the valve body. Insufficient line rise is caused by a worn TV plunger/sleeve in many cases...just putting it on your radar for when you're ready to fire it up and do your line pressure testing (or you can just install it now to eliminate that area as a potential problem for you).
Excellent, you are by far the best I've heard on any tutorial on a 7004 thank you thank you I appreciate you thank you I will save this video
Thank you for the kind words, Bobby!
I have also heard of people using a cup plug to block the 3rd acc in the case to prevent leaks. I personally haven't tried it because i think the capsule works just fine but I would think it would have adverse effects. Great Videos by the way!
Hi 325lsnoma, yep have heard that as well and like you, I have personally never done that either...In all the 700R4s and 4L60Es I have built over the years, I recall one transmission where that third acc check ball capsule was actually leaking (and not due to debris getting wedged in the capsule). Sonnax makes some sort of capsule for it but I've never used it either.
Thank you for watching!
Where were you 4+ years ago when I rebuilt my 700r4??? lol. I had to use the GM manuals, precision transmission videos, and performabuilt videos to build mine and it’s still holding up behind a mild 410 hp or so SBC. But your information would have been helpful. I will enjoy watching these anyway.
Lol! Can't do nothing about the past but now you know where to go for 700R4 tech resources if you ever need to either go back into yours or rebuild someone else's like a buddy or family member's transmission.
Thank you for watching!
Nick, can you run the factory deep 4l60e pan and filter on a 700R4? Just curious was thinking about this while working on my truck today. Thanks, Steve
Hi Steve, thank you for watching..I wouldn't recommend it as you won't have any interference fit between the filter and pan. The pan, via that slight interference fit, keeps the filter from falling out...If it were to become partially or completely dislodged, you'd have no movement...I'd install a B&M aluminum deep pan...Much better than any factory pan, 3 extra quarts of capacity and has the filter pick up extension tube to ensure the filter stays put.
Awesome, thanks for the response nick
I run the 4l60 deep truck pan with drain plug and the truck filter works fine at 90K + miles. I have done this on 3 cars (street Rods) now and zero issues
Enjoy watching your videos. Was wondering what your opinion was on high mileage transverse GM transmissions on like a '95 Buick Century where the fluid has never been changed. I'm hearing that once the magnet is fully saturated and there is black film on the dipstick that it's a gamble to do a service.
Would a flush with say 8oz of Marvel Mystery Oil driven for 500 miles etc be a bad idea?
Thanks in advance
Hi TenSecondBuick - thank you for watching as always!
I am not a fan of bottle fixes and don't think any of them work (they would have to magically reline worn applied elements like clutch discs and bands for them to truly repair worn components). I also don't subscribe to the belief that performing a transmission fluid service (pan drop, flush or both) makes any difference...Some say that it disturbs accumulated crud, especially in the torque converter and circulates it everywhere in the transmission but that's already happening anyways...Others say that the built up crud helps seal valve trains in the VB and pump and flushes remove it all... If that's the case, it is a temporary condition as normal fluid movement would recirculate the 'crud' during operation anyways...So if your transmission starts to slip or fail after doing a service, it was on it's way out and failure was inevitable...
Awesome Man!
Thanks, HMG!
I pulled the valve body off my son’s 92 700r4 and the was a check ball in the vb on top of the separator plate just in front of the 2 balls that are side by side.
Have you ever seen this.??
It’s a goodwrench labeled rebuilt unit
Hi MLR,
There should have been two 1/4-inch check balls on the valve body itself and the 5/16" TV relief / safety check ball that GM began to install in 1984 or 85...
Thank you for watching!
what do you think of Sonnax Pinless 1-2 or 3-4 accumulator piston kit? Or any experience? --> would you rather go with the 3-4 "double stack piston" you showed or the pinless option? (79 Camaro about 450HP street/ strip)
Id block off the 4th accumulator all together and drill the plate .093 im your case. Thanks for watching, man!
Is that still driveable and not to harsh in daily driving situation?
Interesting Videos helps me with my project!
Regards from Germany ;)
Should be fine...anything real hp, block the 4th acc and leave the bore empty. You can use a cup plug and if you decide its a bit too firm, simply drill through the cup plug with a small bit then install the sonnax pinless kit w/spring
Kolene vs standard steels?
I already got Kolene because in my case they are cheaper. But not worse than standard?
Great series of videos. Followed your lead with a trango sk shift kit.on my rebuild. Up shifting seams to be fine but when coming into a lower speed zone like 50 mph to a 30 mph the 4th gear stays engaged until just below 30 mph, when I get on the gas to maintain 30mph it lugs like a manual trans that is not shifted down. It will shift down as soon as the manual shifter is moved. Do you have any thought on this problem
Thank you, Lonepine55!
Did these symptoms begin to occur only after you installed the shift kit or were they present prior to the shift kit?
Did you modify the governor in any way?
@@nickstransmissions The governor was modified as stated in the shift kit instructions
Did these symptoms appear before or only after the shift kit install (see my initial reply)?
Another question is - was modification required? What vehicle, application (DD, street / strip, racing, etc) and what converter stall? Most of the time, you don't have to modify the governor unless you require later shift points owing to a higher stall converter behind an engine with a performance cam.
@@nickstransmissions The transmission in the 1955 GMC in my profile pic with a mild 383 sbc and 373 gears in the back its just a cruiser. The torque converter is a 1800-2000. I followed the Transgo SK 700-G instruction and yes I changed the springs in the governor to the high performance springs. The original reason for rebuilding the tranny was that the bearing behind the front reaction gear set failed and destroyed that gear set. It shifted fine before the failure, I wish I would of left the valve train alone. Looking for help to complete the project
I see...Based on your gear ratio and engine (383), the governor is likely not your problem.
I have never used that kit, never thought it was necessary as I can get modify the valve body as needed on my own. Sounds like 3-4 shift or throttle valve may be sticking but just a guess...
Your best bet may be to simply grab another 700R4 valve body from the junk yard and pop it on, see what happens (esp if you didn't keep track of where all the original springs went)...Just check all the valve trains on the replacement valve body, make sure everything moves freely. Grab a set of gaskets for the separator plate as well, in case one or both get torn.
Also make sure you get a valve body identical to the one you currently have, if you're working on an 82-87 700R4 (early)...If you install an early 700R4 on a late case (1988+), you'll need to plug a couple holes - if this becomes the situation, just visit Transgo's website, click on their 700-P separator plate's page then go to 'Documents'. They have the instructions there showing you what holes need to be plugged based on what valve body you have (early or late).
Lastly, (if you haven't already done so) do a pressure test prior to any road test. This ensures you confirm that your TV cable set up and adjustment is correct...TV cables slightly out of adjustment can lead to a variety of drivability symptoms, including premature clutch pack failure, as you know.
I rebuilt my 1991 4L60 and did some upgrades and modifications. The transmission works but there seems to be a problem. Just before the car comes to a stop, I feel the transmission engage and "pulls" the car to a stop instead of only the brakes making the car stop. Anyone have this kind of experience? Any help in solving this problem would be appreciated. Thank you.
See reply in PT1
When vacuum checking a .500 Boost Valve, it reads about 13inHg, Sonnax LB1 .473 is close to 25inHg., Does the .500 overcome that leak
Hi John, what .500 boost valve are you using?
@@nickstransmissions Transgo, almost all vacuum check low
Hmmm. I wouldnt think a deficiency like that would be able to be overcame but admittedly I never use transgo's boost valves, only Sonnax or the ones from Transstar.
I just swapped a 700r4 in my Jeep behind a 6.0 LS. I believe the case and valve body is a 1992. Currently I have a very weak 2-3 shift during moderate- heavy acceleration. Any tips on how to firm that up?
Yep, I cover exactly what you should do in the video. Watch the section on shift calibration via the spacer plate and let me know if you have any follow up questions and we can go from there.
I just pulled apart my 700r4 and found a broken light blue spring and a broken orange spring in my 1-2 accumulator. Would this cause a no shift issue from 1st to 2nd?
Hi James, thanks for watching...Unless the spring fragments tore the piston's seal, it's not likely. Those springs are Transgo's 1-2 acc spring package that come in all their shift kits and I see them broken frequently such that I have stopped using them and now use either the original factory springs or the Sonnax standard spring in the 1-2 acc location (will install a pinless acc piston as well on performance builds).
@nickstransmissions it does have a transgo shift kit in it from a previous owner. It was driving fine and it suddenly stopped shifting out of 1st gear. Tv valve is not stuck and governor gear looks fairly new. Seems like I might have to dig deeper. Thank you for responding
You're welcome...1-2 shift valve and 1-2 throttle valve would be my next places followed by air-checking the servo assembly to see if it applies the band at the 2nd feed orifice in the case.
@nickstransmissions sounds like the transmission is coming out of the truck then. Was trying to avoid pulling it, but looks like that is my next step. Thank you
You don't have to pull the transmission to do the above suggested checks...Just drop the VB, aux-VB, if so equipped, spacer plate and gaskets - don't loose the check balls in the case as they will be sitting on the spacer plate and spacer plate-to-case gasket if you carefully lower the spacer plate down to the ground from the case belly.
Once the case worm tracks are exposed, go ahead and apply air into the 2nd feed orifice in the case and watch the band to see if it applies...If it does not apply/move then the problem is in the servo, which also doesn't require the trans to come out( you may have to lower it to gain better access to the servo bore by removing the rear x-member).
By any chance, could anyone explain how to do the proprietary secret of the constant pressure valve body?
Hi JRay,
If you're referring to TCI's constant pressure VB, I don't have any idea and I don't use them unless building for a race-only application. Constant max line pressure is very hard on parts, particularly the pump and transmission will not last all that long. For racing, it doesn't matter as the transmission comes out periodically for a refresh or swap depending on what's going on...But for a street-driven vehicle, there's no need for them where the reward isn't worth the risk, IMO.
Where is this shop located? To the public?
Hey Nick what would cause a 3rd gear start? My transmission up shifts through all gears as it should, detent down shift from 4th to 3rd but won't return to 1st on coast down when coming to a stop in D or OD. If I have the gear selection in 2 it will up shift to 2nd and back down to 1st. Reverse works as it should. Line pressure is correct, boosted in reverse, 1st, and 2nd, but D3 and OD when part to half throttle line pressure is erratic bouncing the needle then resting at 75+/- psi when off throttle.
Hi Socosoja, are you starting out in third gear to begin with or unable to downshift back to first gear after initially starting in 1st and upshifting through the drive cycle?
@@nickstransmissions starting out initially in first gear and running through the gear cycle, then it will not downshift all the way back down to first when stopped so when I take off I'm still in 3rd gear it won't go down to second even, or at least I believe it's 3rd gear it may be second gear start but it's definitely not first gear. When I'm sitting at a stop after running through the gears if I drop it in gear selection two or one the truck shifts down and you can fill it lunch forward and then we'll take off in first
How many upshifts do you have after the initial cycle (i.e. when you start out in a gear other than first)? If two upshifts, you're starting out in 2nd gear but if only one, your starting out in third.
Sounds like valve body, specifically the 1-2 valve train. I'd also pull and check the governor to see if the gov valve is moving freely when you actuate the weights. Make sure the teeth aren't chipped/broken off. If either condition is present, pull the old gear and valve, polish the bore with a bench buddy and WD40 and then reinstall. Check freedom of movement..If all is well, put a new gear on it and reinstall (i'd replace the o-ring on the gov cover as well if it hasn't been replaced recently).
Is this an aux valve body transmission or non-aux valve body?
@@nickstransmissions it is an auxiliary. 1991 model CJM. Whenever it's doing its thing starting in high gear I have not given the chance to up shift from there because I was hesitant on burning up clutch packs or the band. But last night whenever it tried to start in high gear I gave it wide open throttle and it down shifted to first gear and then ran through the gears like normal but then still did not Coast down the first gear when stopped. I have checked the governor, in fact I have been swapping the governor because I have five of them trying to tune in my shift points. Grinding weights changing Springs but changing governors never has a different outcome it's always the same and I have also swapped servo a couple times. I have a mix of Transco reprogramming 2&3 kit and sk700 shift kit springs. I did not drill out the holes in the worm tracks that the programming has you do I just use some valve body Springs and replaced the TV valve. I have no spring in modulated up shift, I have a Blue Spring in the 3-2 valve, I have the purple spring for the line bias, brown in accumulator valve, 1-2 accumulator housing has spring seat then blue spring, piston with feet up then orange spring. 3-4 accumulator is double piston. Just to give you some ideas what I'm doing. I have pulled the valve body a dozen times swapping Springs trying to get my shifts where I want them and the 1-2 shift valve train is never stuck. Maybe the valve body in general is what's the matter? I have others I can use but I was trying to find the cause of this because I'm not just into my transmission for the drivability and transportation, I'm really trying to master this as a builder so I want to know the ends and outs. I really do appreciate you taking the time to reply to me! Most of my knowledge on this unit (700r4 & 4l60e) has came from your videos and I read the forums on multiple sites too. Your awesome sir! Thank you
@@nickstransmissions also my checkball locations are 55f, 55h in case and the 2 in the valvebody
I am currently rebuilding a 700r4 and the 4th accumulator bleed orifice is drilled out. What if any would be the purpose of this 🤔 the failure originally was skipping 2nd gear it would go softly into 3rd at 33 to 3500 rpm
Hi Josh, good question...Let me look into this a bit further and I'll respond with more info later today.
@@nickstransmissions thanks I tagged you in a short for a visual explanation
Hi Josh, sorry been slammed but I did watch your video - thanks for filming it...By removing the exhaust orifice restrictor, I'm thinking that will speed up the 4-3 downshift but admittedly I haven't seen that mod before in a 700R or 4L60E. It may also allow for greater flow of lube oil to the rear gear set since rear gear lube flows through the 4th accumulator piston bore.
@nickstransmissions I found several things I couldn't figure out like 2 waveys in the reverse input ...4 clutches in the 3/4 with steels stacked together at the bottom it checked out at 93 thousandth snug so...
Two wavy plates in the R/I? Interesting...Perhaps someone wanted to reduce the firmness in engagement...Same reaction to what you found in the 3-4 clutch...Bizarre (and at .093 clearance, way too much)...If you're rebuilding this unit, and you're working with a 097 or 716 forward drum (check the last three digits of the casting number), simply run a 4L65E clutch pack...You'll need to purchase the 4L65E apply and backing plate set along with the seven HE clutch plates and six lindered flat steels...Run clearance down to .025-.035 and reinstall the load release springs...Makes for a very nice upgraded clutch pack over the standard fare and not too much more on the spend...
What would you do if you have a 2800still for 2nd so I can feel it
Thanks for watching, Tony...This video and PT1 lays out all the information you need to determine what to do for a 2800 stall converter in your specific vehicle, intended use case, etc.
Since feel is very subjective and means different things to different people, my general advice is to start conservative on feed hole sizes and work up so you don't go too big and the shift is too aggressive, vehicle no longer enjoyable to drive.
Nick, 7004r in manual 2nd starts in first or second gear? What can be done to omit 1st gear start in manual 2?
Hi Shalash, sounds like you may need Transgo's 700R4 Reprogramming kit, which has a full manual option. Here's the link to their webpage: transgo.com/product-details/700-reprogramming-gear-command/
You can find and review the instructions for the full-manual option via that link.
Is this trans being built for or currently being used in a more specialized off-road application?
@@nickstransmissions Thanks for the answer Nick. I am contemplating on buying a Chevy/GMC pickup, but I want the same kind of Manual 2nd that you get in a Ford transmission - i.e. it is only 2nd gear, no 1st gear starts, whilst the rest of the ranges should function just like they do (although eliminating detent downshift in 4th is also worth following across).
You're welcome, Shalash...I think that Transgo kit should provide for what you're trying to accomplish...I'll see about doing a video on the topic if someone comes in looking for the same thing.
Hey, so I’ve put about 200 miles on my rebuilt 700r4. Line pressure is good. My 1-2 shift is nice and firm 2-3 is firm but my 3-4 shift is very soft and almost hard to feel. When the converter is locked in 4th it feels good and doesn’t slip at all. Tv cable is properly adjusted, I did so with a pressure gauge. Is this normal? My trans is a 1983 also when I rebuilt it I installed a transgo shift kit and a 2000 stall converter
Depends...What size did you drill your 3-4 feed orifice? Did you block or restrict the 4th accumulator feed? How's the condition of the servo cover - any observable wear?
The kit I used was part #887-SK700 on Jeggs I followed the instructions to a T. I installed the accumulator springs provided in the kit. The only drilling on the directions was for the valve body plate but my plate already had the holes drilled and the sizes matched the bit provided in the kit. And the servo parts and cover is brand new.
I think they have you drill the 2-3 and 3-4 to .110 and install the 4th acc return spring first the the piston upside down in the case which is fine. Id do what I usually do with the 4th and install the old piston (no seal) upside down and then the new 3-4 acc piston right side up with the seal, intermesh the legs (you didnt simply re-use your old 3-4 acc piston, did you?).
That should keep accumulation to a minimum and firm up the 3-4 shift.
my 1-2 shift check ball has slightly damaged the case where it sits, is this a concern?
Hi Kevin, repair the plate using fitzall's kit. If the check ball continues to wear into the plate, it will eventually get stuck causing issues with your 1-2 shift. You can check out my video on the Fitzall kit here: m.ruclips.net/video/-Y_8nfNZse8/видео.html
Thank you for watching!
@@nickstransmissions Hi Nick, it's actually the transmission case that is showing minor damage, not the plate. I'm not sure how to post a picture of it on here but it looks like the ball is trying to move towards the rear into the passageway from where the ball sits in the case. Maybe it's nothing to be concerned with.
Ah, ok...Ive actually never seen a case actually damaged by check balls but most will look like there's excessive wear at check ball seating locations. If you want, shoot a short video, upload it to youtube then reply here with the link and ill take a look...
Here's a video on the case
ruclips.net/user/shortsJBMko1ZqtMo?feature=share