Quick tip, as it took me a few tries for the cut. When importing the puzzle cut SVG, you want to right click and select "Release compound Vector" which will separate all the lines. Then select the horizontal lines and assign them to a layer, select the vertical lines and assign them to a different layer, and finally give a layer to the box outline. Then through the layer menu, arrange them in order such as horizontal layer first, then vertical layer, and finish up with the box. Then click the three dots next to Process, Process path set to "User defining" and set By Layer to on, and Scanning way to "From top to bottom". I have an xtool P2s with slates, and without doing that the box is cut first, then the vertical, which results in the vertical lines to be cut with no support, then fall through before the horizontal could be cut. Anyway. Thank for the tutorial! For some reason my sublimation needs more work and improvement since the picture is not as bright and colorful as yours, but I suspect that I just need a better poly :) still more learning to be done!
That looks great, i definitely wanna convert one of those eco printers for sublimation, been on my (ever-growing) list of things to do for a few years lol. One suggestion....after you've sublimated the picture onto the wood, do your coat of polycrylic before you put it in the laser. I do this with anything i paint before lasering, and the char wipes off soooo easy with baby wipes. I've found that words much better than masking.
It’s amazing how well and beautifully sublimation can work. Converting the printer was easy and lots of materials to sub on. I also love the polycrylic and will try coating again after the sublimation vs after cuts. Less clean up and work at the end always nice. I’ll be making a 3rd puzzle this weekend with an actual picture.
With the right amount of heat and still pressure it could be possible but highly recommend a heat press like in the video. Any movement could blur the image so maybe try small trying this method.
nice i used to do this the hard way from years ago when i used to make my own transfers. i would suggest a faster cut but with multiple passes it will give a cleaner cut.. and i used to mask both sides saves cleaning up... but now back into my stonework at the moment..
It was my first time masking the whole puzzle and probably should have left it xtool cut setting or maybe a bit faster then cut twice. I agree the cuts would be cleaner specially masking both sides. So my next puzzle I’ll probably try that so clean up and charring very minimal. The turn around time and sale price for these puzzles is great. I love working with slate.
@@XtraMoreCreations i just managed to get the f1 ultra.. i have been embossing jade.. but you have to be careful as it fractures a lot.. and is costly.. i only had a small part to test on..
Glad you enjoy the videos. I have a small DJI one that I usually use. I really should set up my large one for my laser level then I could show myself with the project more 🙃
Maybe one day I can add it to the workshop. Definitely would be super handy, nice to be able to combine these two. I use sublimation for hoodies, shirts, tumblers and lots more.
Quick tip, as it took me a few tries for the cut. When importing the puzzle cut SVG, you want to right click and select "Release compound Vector" which will separate all the lines. Then select the horizontal lines and assign them to a layer, select the vertical lines and assign them to a different layer, and finally give a layer to the box outline. Then through the layer menu, arrange them in order such as horizontal layer first, then vertical layer, and finish up with the box. Then click the three dots next to Process, Process path set to "User defining" and set By Layer to on, and Scanning way to "From top to bottom".
I have an xtool P2s with slates, and without doing that the box is cut first, then the vertical, which results in the vertical lines to be cut with no support, then fall through before the horizontal could be cut. Anyway. Thank for the tutorial! For some reason my sublimation needs more work and improvement since the picture is not as bright and colorful as yours, but I suspect that I just need a better poly :) still more learning to be done!
That looks great, i definitely wanna convert one of those eco printers for sublimation, been on my (ever-growing) list of things to do for a few years lol.
One suggestion....after you've sublimated the picture onto the wood, do your coat of polycrylic before you put it in the laser. I do this with anything i paint before lasering, and the char wipes off soooo easy with baby wipes. I've found that words much better than masking.
It’s amazing how well and beautifully sublimation can work. Converting the printer was easy and lots of materials to sub on. I also love the polycrylic and will try coating again after the sublimation vs after cuts. Less clean up and work at the end always nice. I’ll be making a 3rd puzzle this weekend with an actual picture.
Stupid question. Can you sublimate images using an iron?
With the right amount of heat and still pressure it could be possible but highly recommend a heat press like in the video. Any movement could blur the image so maybe try small trying this method.
Super thanks
Welcome
nice i used to do this the hard way from years ago when i used to make my own transfers. i would suggest a faster cut but with multiple passes it will give a cleaner cut.. and i used to mask both sides saves cleaning up... but now back into my stonework at the moment..
It was my first time masking the whole puzzle and probably should have left it xtool cut setting or maybe a bit faster then cut twice. I agree the cuts would be cleaner specially masking both sides. So my next puzzle I’ll probably try that so clean up and charring very minimal. The turn around time and sale price for these puzzles is great. I love working with slate.
@@XtraMoreCreations i just managed to get the f1 ultra.. i have been embossing jade.. but you have to be careful as it fractures a lot.. and is costly.. i only had a small part to test on..
Loved it.
Hi, thanks a lot for your video. I didnt catch what you used on the wood before sublimation. Can you tell me what it was?
The birch was pre coated with polycrylic and brushed on, takes about 24hrs to fully dry.
Enjoy your videos. You really need a tripod!! 😂😂
Glad you enjoy the videos. I have a small DJI one that I usually use. I really should set up my large one for my laser level then I could show myself with the project more 🙃
Nice work, sell your s1 and buy m1 ultra 4 in 1 :D
Maybe one day I can add it to the workshop. Definitely would be super handy, nice to be able to combine these two. I use sublimation for hoodies, shirts, tumblers and lots more.