[How-to] 300ZX NA Coolant Bypass
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- Опубликовано: 17 фев 2013
- Index:
What's under the plenum? - 1:24
How long do they last before risk of failure? - 4:00
What tools are best? - 4:50
Removing the lines - 6:18
AAC Hard line - 11:41
Where do the new coolant hoses go? - 12:39
Enjoy!
Parts:
~4ft of 8mm Silicone Coolant line (CZP Part #: 300-14056-CZ8MM used)
4-6 hose clamps. (4 if you remove the extra hard lines) - Nissan 16439-42L00
This part number is for PCV \ Fuel clamps that are slightly larger for the new silicone hose.
Also replace the fuel hoses on the fuel rail, valve cover seals, exhaust cam half-moons, Vac lines to EGR.
Twin Turbo bypass is much different, since you will have coolant lines to the turbos. 
Авто/Мото
Thanks so much for this video. While the walkthroughs online are helpful, seeing it all come apart is definitely more helpful.
MAJOR simplification for common later maintenance, as well as keeping intake air temperatures down!
Absolutely, hands down, should be performed on EVERY 300ZX once it comes time to remove the upper intake plenum
Are you the same guy from Engineering explained? Haha thanks for the video!
Also on the forum , I noticed a lot of z-owners were having temp.issues........most if not all upgraded the radiator and it solved their temp.issues
Great video! Thanks Corey(:
13:35 metal gear!
glad you made this vid, thank you n god bless
+jahkyleezy Welcome!
How about doing a vid on egr delete
Hey Corey, Thanks for all of your videos they are very helpful. I am planning on doing my first plenum pull next week on my 95 z32. The only reason I am pulling the plenum is my intake valve cover starts wheezing and oil coming out of it, so I will be replacing (the gaskets) and reseal all my valve covers. Also replaced all the Hoses on AAC/IACV, all PCV Hose line and all Vacuum lines. I have some questions though, Did you accidentally strip any of the screws of: injector caps, Valve covers, upon removing them? Did you also had to replaced the spark plug ornament cover seals (13291-30P00) and the spark Plug Rocker cover seal (13295-30P20) ? Oh I will be replacing all of my spark plug connectors and Fuel Injector Connectors coz the other day when I pop one each of them the locking clip just disintegrated. Is there any way how to clean or refurbished the fuel injector (while they are already out)? Is there any vacuum lines that I need to relocate when I delete the TB bypass?
hello C thanks for responding. I assume you were talking about bleeding air from the coolant system when you were speaking of the heater on, engine on car inclined etc.........? Ironic you mentioned the thermostatic switch being faulty I was wondering about that and I think Nissan has specific parameters for when the auxiliary fan activates......therefore I would just remove the gauge and leave it off manually which cause the auxiliary fan to come on.. I appreciate your help....thanks
at the back of the drivers side (right if inside car) there is a vacuum line or some sort of rubber hose that sits on the metal lines that you delete is there a routing for that or do you just leave it?
What made you decide to loop the coolant lines rather than cap off the nipples to have less hose back there? What you did is closest to factory flow but some people cap them off, hence curious as to your thinking?
Thanks man, very helpful!
@1:05 you mentioned removing the fitting on the underside of the plenum by grinding because drilling didn't work, but I didn't see it anywhere in the vid. How did you remove those? Also, how do you remove the fittings attached directly to the throttle body?
I followed everything. where does the EGR go now?
also i have read this on the forum somewhere that "If yours in an automatic transmission, it's best to not delete connections to and from the length of metal tubing that heats the Air Regulator to pull the engine idle speed down as the engine warms up. ..??? kindly clear that .thanks
How do you have so much room behind the motor? I've got electrical EVERYWHERE in mine! I can't even see the modified bypass @13:47 would go in my car, let alone access it! In your experience, could one of the two hoses on this side be the main cause of a coolant leak from the rear, or are there others more prone to failure?
what differnce does it make to remove ..?how important is this to remove? i am from australia .i have N/A z32. what if i leave it as is ...?kindly help briefly .thanks
Hey Corey. I was looking for your plenum removal tutorial video. I've looked on your video library, am I missing it?
Hi Glendon, I'm surprised I don't have one! I only have a few videos once removed.
- 300ZX NA Coolant Bypass
- 300ZX, Remove exhaust valve cover
- 300ZX Exhaust valve cover install (With EGR)
- 300ZX Intake valve cover install
And the video showing the differences in NA/TT, Early/late intake manifiods.
No worries. I have a 91 twin turbo and I think the coolant lines underneath the plenum are leaking. It seems like such a daunting task.
@@glendonrichards686 you are probably correct. The coolant lines to the throttle body aren't necessary in climates above freezing and are just a liability. The coolant lines to and from the turbo are still necessary (as long as your turbo is designed for water cooling).
I haven't done a TT bypass/cleanup in a very long time, but i know there are more hoses than what most people replace and I highly recommend replacing all. I remember one behind the head on the LH side that is super easy to miss. Z1 has a nice pre-formed silicone replacement hose.
Read up first, gather the recommended tools. The first time is definitely recommended to have a secondary car you can drive as long as you need, and do the work at the comfort of your home / garage where you can walk away and read the wiki/forums when you get stuck. Eventually it will become very intuitive and simple, and it helps making z32 maintenance feel more comfortable.
Some years of Z32, you can reach all 4 egr bolts to the intake manifold from below... But I think it is 94-96 NA only... But that trick saves so much back pain. Take an aleve or ibuprofen before starting. It can really help with all the leaning over in the bay.
Also keep in mind that almost all bolts are going into aluminum. Almost the whole job is low torque. Use a torque wrench and the factory service manual for guidance for the whole thing.
I can't tell you how many stripped threads and leaks I've seen at the balance tube. Plan on getting new balance tube o-rings, and remember the side brackets go above the balance tube flange.
And the PCV hoses will be rock hard if original. You will want another set. Get the PCV valves (oem) while you are there. It can prevent a disaster down the road.
Also... Clean out the egr tube as best you can. Vacuums, drill bits, pipe cleaners, anything you can do to clear the carbon buildup. There are two openings on the sides of the egr tube, not the top.
I moved to WA if you are local.
Lol my car hit 153k and steam started to come up from under the hood took me a month till I figured to pull the plenum flipped it over and there was a nice hole in the line there was the problem lol
Hello C how are you? I would like to ask a question. The original/stock radiator that comes off the assembly line, is much different from the regular stock aftermarket radiator which seems to cause temp.issues/fluctuations etc.........WHY IS THIS ? also I wanted to ask have you ever had temp.issues after having to replace the original stock radiator and does upgrading to one of the high performance radiators ex.mishimoto, howe and the CSF 2871 really solve over heating issues providing all else is working properly? Also have you ever used synthetic mishimoto radiator fluid?thanks
Hi Anthony,
The biggest issues I've seen with z32 cooling is typically due to air pockets in the coolant passageways, severely blocked radiators (in front of the radiator, OR the exchanger tubes blocked and bent) or missing fan shrouds. Also, some electric fans failing to turn on due to faulty thermostatic switches.
If the fan shroud fits, the air is properly bled out (heater on, engine on, car on an incline, rad cap open) and the radiator shroud setup fits well, then there have been no problems.
Also with additives, I highly recommend redline brand water wetter. Not only does it increase capability for water to exchange heat with the aluminum radiator and block, but it helps prevent corrosion. I run 70% distilled water to coolant, and add in the correct dosage of water wetter (like 10 cap fulls). No corrosion since running it 5+ years ago.
where did you but those channel locks...they look nicee!
The blue\yellow handled Irwin channel locks are purchased from Lowes, and they're freaking amazing, BUY A SET. GOOO!~
I still rather cut the hoses into manageable pieces than flail around with the whole hardpipe.
Where'd you get those long pliers? I'd be done by now if I had those. I gotta have a pair.
Sly White
They used to be available at Harbor Freight, however I haven't seen them at the local store recently!
Thanks. I saw them on the website. Hope they have them in stock locally.
I have a JDM 1990 300zx twin turbo. Will it work? And can you delete your iacv and aac? What about egr?
Twin turbo coolant bypass routing is much different, refer to online guides as they're much more common for TT's.
Leave the IACV and AAC, they control your cold start idle,and regulate idle when the AC and electronics are turned on..
EGR is not necessary where emissions testing is not required. California is EGR mandatory pretty much. (Can't modify emissions)
Cool delete bro, hey can you do this to my Z ?
The actual bypass is the same. This is on my 96.
I live in California if I do these delete will it affect it when I try to pass the smog emission test??
Hey Luis,
This delete will not effect smog numbers in USA as we test these cars at running temperature.
Leaving the coolant fittings on the throttle body may throw off a smog technician however during visual inspection, so CA residents, shave the fittings flush (and potentially pack with JB weld, sand, powdercoat or paint over, etc).
Many guys here leave the fittings disconnected and haven't run into issues yet, but I prefer to run the preventative route since the rest of my car is a red flag.
~Corey
Yo Corey, off topic, but could i delete the prvr system on a 1996 300zx without the obdii dishing out a code?
Yes. There is no ECU feedback from the prvr "fuel pressure regulator control solenoid" for the 96 Z32 or other usdm years. It will just make hot engine starts a little more difficult.
There will be no code. You can read a little more on the solenoid in 1996 Z32 FSM page EC-325
@@CoreysZ32 Thanks man.
@@CoreysZ32 So concept z replied that i would have a code from prvr removal in a 96... that doesn't make sense to me. Do you have a 96 z32 vacuum diagram? My driver side vacuum routing doesn't match the z32 na diagram on the web.
@@brotharuss if you have an obd2 reader that can clear codes, just unplug the solenoid and start it up. Theres no prvr code but maybe it is sensitive enough to throw something else on startup.
Im out of town this weekend but email corey300zx @gmail and ill see if i can send you one
What about on a tt car?
is this the same basic process as the TT?
Irrelevant Toast
The TT has different routing due to the turbos having coolant feeds on the same system. You could slightly benefit from the video just by understanding the bottom of the plenum, however the reroute is not the same.
You sound like Ben Affleck
I've never heard that one before
first 10min just talking nothing about nothing.....