Thanks for watching. How many miles have you gone on your OEM Balancer? What aftermarket balancer did you decide to go with? 0:47 Harmonic Balancer Failure 1:44 How To Identify Harmonic Balancer Failure 2:26 Harmonic Balancer Replacements 4:24 Summary
Yea I'm not sure the deal with mine. I looked at the carfax history awhile back and some shop replaced a gasket or something on/behind the balancer and I called them to ask if they replaced the balancer too and they said no lol. I think it was related to an oil leak.
Probably replaced the front main seal. Need to remove the balancer to do it, so too bad they didn't replace it then. Keep an eye on it and you'll be OK
I've never heard a bad experience from anybody using the ATI. Like you said, it can be done in jack stand, but it is a chore for sure. Thanks for sharing your experience.
You need to disconnect it and unfortunately it from the cradle. Depending on what else you're doing, it may be easier to just remove it and get it out if the way, but replacing just the balancer is doable by not removing it entirely.
@@Toys4Life thanks a lot! I’m stock automatic but will be putting a cam and some bolt ons to get to 400-450hp so I was looking at the powerbond or the summit 2501
@@Drip2SG Either is a good choice, PB does everything I need it to do for less $$. Reliable is a must (don't want to do this job twice!) and I saw a lot of great feedback about the PB - so I went with it.
Excellent video. I also have the Summit version. It also has the best warranty at 1 year versus 3 months for the others. That was a major factor for me.
I see a lot of comments saying I went cheap with Powerbond. There is more than one balancer from Powerbond for the C5 C6 LS engines. Cheap one and a good one. Choose the one that fits your budget. Both work but the cheap one has failed again after replacing the stock unit.
I had to do it. 2000 C5 with 90'000 km. I took it to a corvette shop here in switzerland. 2500 swiss francs. But I didnt knew that there are balancers like the ATI. I went with the OEM 🤦🏻♀️
It's not the end of the world to go back to OEM. Hopefully you have good luck with it. If you have to replace it in the future, now you'll know which to go with.
Age is definitely a factor. Even the GM OEM balancers can go bad in just a few years depending on variables. Had someone message me that he's on his 3rd OEM Balancer in a few years. That's not good to hear lol.
Definitely a nice way to monitor it. Just watched you vid on the C6Z51 sway bars. I've had the C6Z shocks for over a year now and haven't been able to get the bars, so I'll order from GM Parts Direct like you. Thanks for that and I'll be painting mine yellow
It's good to be aware of it. Not saying it's going to fail tomorrow, but better to catch it early before it gets worse. Thanks for watching and glad it helped
I can see my balancer is beginning to wobble. I am going to put that white mark on and monitor it. By monitoring I'll see if this is necessary now or later. I would like to know what's the advantages with the aftermarket models? Other than the 6-8 rib system? I won't be doing massive upgrades to this Corvette. It's already pretty damn fast. LOL Thank you in advanced to anyone that helps out.
Great video. My oe was marked. Never showed signs of wear. No wobble. But was chasing a squeeky belt in the winters. New balancer squeak completely gone. Weird how these things can fail in so many different ways.
not sure if it had been replaced before but at 120k with some wobble going on i went ati. good vid man, better throw springs on the list did have one of those break but got so so lucky
I am now kicking myself for not going with the C2501. I have the Powerbond SFI and I have no doubt it will outlive the engine. My blower pulley is 8 rib and I can't utilize it at this time.
Someone else commented their C2501 didn't hold up with their 8 rib system so now they have me questioning it lol. Idk if I'll upgrade to 8 rib if I ever go with a blower, but we'll see
Some people will use OEM on restoration Vette or some Particular C5 editions. Is ok to use OEM but you have to check it after some miles. Is a great advice, if this thing fail it can be a horrible scene. My 1998 C5 have 60k a no wobble jet. But my brother 24hr Lemans c5 was starting to wobble it just have 38k miles.
It's luck of the draw I guess. I've heard them last for over 100k miles and still going after 20 years and some needed replacement back before Facebook. Just make sure your brother monitors it until he's able to replace it. It can get expensive really quick if things go real bad.
@@YellowVette04 He already replace it with a OEM one, his car is a garage Queen, almost never used becuase of the 24hr Lemans edition history. In my case, don't mind to use mine becuase is a base model coupe so I dont feel bad, at least 2,000 miles per year is not bad.
It's certainly one of those parts you want to do right the first time, since it takes a lot of effort to get back in there and do it. Thanks for watching
Nothing wrong with the OEM one. Mine lasted 16 years and still didn't show signs of failing. Others have issues with the OEM balancer so who knows. Thanks for watching and commenting
56,000 on my 03. I’m 3rd owner not sure if any of the previous owners had replaced it. I’ve got the white paint mark on it, and check it weekly since it’s my daily driver. Belt chirped when I got it so I replaced the belts and pulley on the tensioner. Hasn’t squeaked in the 6,000 miles I put on it. But I did just find that the belt was rubbing on two of the hard lines going to the steering rack. Just bent them out of the way and clamped them to the rack.
ASP is also a good balancer. Mid priced, last I knew, cheaper than ATI, but more than your cheaper options. Good balancer. Reason I don't know the price? I put it on over 10 years ago. Running a 25% underdrive on a built LS7 in my C5.
The statement about about no rhyme or reason for OEM balancer failure says a lot about this guys understanding of the word "harmonic", and his understanding of this parts function. The oem balancer is tuned to cancel a stock engines destructive harmonic vibrations. Obviously, on a non stock engine, the resonance frequencies are changed, and the OEM part, which contains polymer , not rubber as the video states, will now be the incorrect part to damp destructive harmonic distortions. with any aftermarket balancer, the damping frequency range is needed for the part to work correctly. The new part might be improved in every way, but unless it is tuned to dampen the particular harmonic vibration of the application, unchecked harmonic vibrations will hurt parts, typically the crank bearings go first, the crank follows if nothing is repaired. selecting a part without addressing if it is tuned for your needs, as when putting a racing tuned harmonic balancer on a stock engine, is as uninformed as running racing slicks on the street.
I replaced the OEM Balancer with an OEM at 11200 miles on my 2005 C6, The new one started to wobble after 1500 miles. So now I go for an aftermarket balancer.
Looks like it's GM part #12560115. That's what I get when I look it up at GM Parts Store. The stamping on mine looks like 591220, there's a lot of dirt buildup on it. As far as I know this is the original balancer on my car, but I can't confirm that.
I would keep an eye on it. If it's not wobbling or showing any other signs of deteriorating then I would leave it for now. Just make sure you track it.
This can be done on jack stands. The hardest and most time consuming thing is removing the steering rack. It can be done in less than a day is you have all parts and tools you need. Most tools can be rented for free from autozone, etc. A shop can probably do it in 4 hours.
Hey man great video, i just ordered the c2503 for my 03 AE. The difference was the under drive. My car is totally stock and i asked if it would throw off my timing or anything and he said no it just gives little more power to the drive train and such. Please tell me i didnt make a mistake.
The underdrive pulley will add more power to drive train. From what I hear, it may have an adverse reaction to your AC, but I can't confirm or deny that claim. You'll need a new smaller belt as well. If the car is stock, I would use the same size pulley as stock (C2501) since the gains won't be substantial, but it's your car. Depends what your goals are in the future.
To add onto this, im debating between the underdrive and normal pulley from summit. so far I have intake, headers, stage 3 btr cam and exhaust making 400 hp. Would you go with an underdrive or normal pulley
Bro, where we're you earlier with this video?! Lol, I purchased the OEM one this spring , install haven't put it on yet , so looks like I'll be shopping at summit, I got few things in my cart already 😀, (install tool, and that balancer, also thinking of purchasing a clutch remote bleeder while I'm at it)
I published the vid back in February, so where you been?? Lol jk. I know there's plenty of guys that put an OEM balancer back in and have no problems, but there's also plenty of cases of failure. The summit balancer isn't expensive compared to OEM, so I think it's insurance that's well worth the money. All good things and the remote bleeder will save you time and aggravation down the road. Good luck with everything.
That's a pretty good price. I would Google it or check out one of the Facebook groups to see if anybody knows a shop near you. This is an older video, so you may not get an answer here.
Thanks for watching. A friend made this one up for me and I didn't know about the lighter color with yellow, but it looks good. I have to check if I can pick this color in my Etsy Store or not. If you like the smaller flag logo that i was wearing compared to the whole chest logo, shoot me an email and I'll if he can make more, yellowvette04yt@gmail.com
What is the best bolt to use on a new HB? I have heard that people use an ARP bolt or something like that, but most of the things ive read focus on the actual HB brand, not the bolt.
ARP is a popular aftermarket bolt and can be reused multiple times. There's posts that claim the OEM bolt backed out on some people, but it all comes down to how you torque the bolt. There's a sequence to torqueing it properly and the OEM bolt is torque to yield, so you can only use it once. I went with an OEM bolt, it's only a few bucks and the ARP bolt is more of course, but it's not a crazy amount more.
My summit C2501 arrived today and it has a slot in it. I bought the pinning kit, do i still pin this like the OEM? or is there another process for the slot?
Depends on the pinning kit you got. If you got the kit that drills into the front of the crank, then do it 90° from the keyway. That kit you install the balancer and then drill through both like oem. Keyway is only used if you have the other type of pin kit that drills into the side of the crank.
@@YellowVette04 i have the pinning kit where you drill two holes, 9 o clock and 3 o clock. So your saying i put the key hole in between at 12 o clock or 6 o clock.
I have a link in the description to the Powerbond Model. Either the Powerbond or Summit are great options for 99% of the owners out there. ATI is great, no doubt about that, but most people don't need it.
@Jesus V it seems overwhelming, but if you have time, tools and patience you can get it done in a weekend with little knowledge and experience doing it. A shop can probably knock it out in 4hrs. Good luck
@@Timmyval123 did you took it to the same dealer to have it replaced? I’ll be doing my next weekend, just bought a vett with 7k miles on it and it’s wobbling like crazy. Last owner only drove it 1k miles in 8 years. Bought a PowerBond balancer and hopefully everything goes smoothly.
I don’t think any aftermarket one would last 15 or 20 years the Oem one don’t start to fail until they get old and on top of that every aftermarket ones weighs 2 to 4 pounds heavier than the oem one I was on the phone with Summit racing for about 45 minutes and we went over just about every damper they had for my corvette they were all a lot heavier Even the guy I talked to on the phone said he would go with the OEM one too. Oem $100. Aftermarket Ati one $450
Fluidampers have a very viscous oil inside of them, they are slow to react to RPM changes. Stock engine fine, boosted engine not so much. Watch the engine on a dyno, harmonics go crazy until the damper catches back up to the RPM. Remember, this is a damper and not a balancer.
Thanks for watching. How many miles have you gone on your OEM Balancer? What aftermarket balancer did you decide to go with?
0:47 Harmonic Balancer Failure
1:44 How To Identify Harmonic Balancer Failure
2:26 Harmonic Balancer Replacements
4:24 Summary
I’m not too sure which one I went with at the time I ended up selling the car after I repaired it
My vette is at 170k and it looks oem but I only purchased it 10k miles ago and don't know if it was ever replaced
There's guys out there with original balancers with that many miles. Luck of the draw I guess.
Yea I'm not sure the deal with mine. I looked at the carfax history awhile back and some shop replaced a gasket or something on/behind the balancer and I called them to ask if they replaced the balancer too and they said no lol. I think it was related to an oil leak.
Probably replaced the front main seal. Need to remove the balancer to do it, so too bad they didn't replace it then. Keep an eye on it and you'll be OK
ATI SUPER DAMPER... is the way too go & never worry about it again...
Did mine in my garage on jack stands... It's a bugger but can be done...
I've never heard a bad experience from anybody using the ATI. Like you said, it can be done in jack stand, but it is a chore for sure. Thanks for sharing your experience.
Jim do you remove the steering rack?
You need to disconnect it and unfortunately it from the cradle. Depending on what else you're doing, it may be easier to just remove it and get it out if the way, but replacing just the balancer is doable by not removing it entirely.
Nice Vid! POWERBOND = Cheap, durable and so far, mine has held up to 2.5 years of enduring the additional strain of powering a Vortech supercharger.
Nice. Thanks for commenting and sharing your experience
Did you pin your damper? I know Ati has the ones you can pin
@@Drip2SG Yes and it was much easier than I thought. Torqueing the bolt back to 250 ft/lb was a lot harder than I thought and I am fairly strong.
@@Toys4Life thanks a lot! I’m stock automatic but will be putting a cam and some bolt ons to get to 400-450hp so I was looking at the powerbond or the summit 2501
@@Drip2SG Either is a good choice, PB does everything I need it to do for less $$. Reliable is a must (don't want to do this job twice!) and I saw a lot of great feedback about the PB - so I went with it.
Yep, the Achilles heal of the c5. Great info....such a good idea on the white mark. I never thought about doing that. thanks!
Anything to help with an early diagnosis is definitely a benefit. Better to catch it early than too late. Thanks for watching and glad it helped
Excellent video. I also have the Summit version. It also has the best warranty at 1 year versus 3 months for the others. That was a major factor for me.
That's a great point. I didn't notice that, so thanks for pointing that out. Just passed a year on mine and no issues. Just sent you an email 👍
In Another associated video you may want to cover changing all of the pulleys and belts as these can be other sources of heartache when they fail.
Great point. I'll get to do those at some point for sure. Sent you an email.
This is good to know as I considering buying this model.
@@jeffreymoore4474 Agreed! I was planning on changing mine if and when I change out the balancer.
I see a lot of comments saying I went cheap with Powerbond. There is more than one balancer from Powerbond for the C5 C6 LS engines. Cheap one and a good one. Choose the one that fits your budget. Both work but the cheap one has failed again after replacing the stock unit.
Yes, exactly. They make an OEM style one and the race version. I tried to make that point in the video that I was referring to the race one.
I went on the cheap and did the Power Bond replacement. So far, no issues. Fingers crossed.
I've heard the Powerbond OEM replacement is built better, so maybe you won't have an issue for awhile... or until you boost it lol.
@@YellowVette04 I'm going to SEND IT!
5 neutral gears and all lol
Very impressed with the Power Bond Race Series balancer and an ARP crank bolt.
It's a quality piece from what I hear. Thanks for sharing your experience
Seems like this is the best least expensive option?
I replaced mine when I had the cam inatalled.. awesome lighting btw
That's when I did mine as well. Thanks man, just a few cool white light bulbs in those clamp work lights.
@@YellowVette04 yessir they look great!
I had to do it. 2000 C5 with 90'000 km. I took it to a corvette shop here in switzerland. 2500 swiss francs. But I didnt knew that there are balancers like the ATI. I went with the OEM 🤦🏻♀️
It's not the end of the world to go back to OEM. Hopefully you have good luck with it. If you have to replace it in the future, now you'll know which to go with.
It's good ro replace on the Fox too, mainly because of how old they are now 😁
Age is definitely a factor. Even the GM OEM balancers can go bad in just a few years depending on variables. Had someone message me that he's on his 3rd OEM Balancer in a few years. That's not good to hear lol.
@@YellowVette04 LOL, no it isn't. WOW
fluidampr is amazing too! I put them with the ati damper. They are pricy tho
That's another good damper. I should have included a few notable mentions. Thanks for sharing your experience
I'm gonna have to change my balancer soon im so excited.
Not a terrible job, but it is frustrating getting the rack out. I'd recommend replacing the front main seal while you're there as well.
Nice video. I’ll be sure to check mine when it awakens from winter hibernation! Good idea with the white mark.
Definitely a nice way to monitor it. Just watched you vid on the C6Z51 sway bars. I've had the C6Z shocks for over a year now and haven't been able to get the bars, so I'll order from GM Parts Direct like you. Thanks for that and I'll be painting mine yellow
@@YellowVette04 sounds good! Thanks for the sub too...
Excellent, Dave. I have a '99 Corvette, runs great, but I'll check out that HB! Excellent videos, thanks! - Scott
It's good to be aware of it. Not saying it's going to fail tomorrow, but better to catch it early before it gets worse. Thanks for watching and glad it helped
I can see my balancer is beginning to wobble. I am going to put that white mark on and monitor it. By monitoring I'll see if this is necessary now or later.
I would like to know what's the advantages with the aftermarket models? Other than the 6-8 rib system? I won't be doing massive upgrades to this Corvette. It's already pretty damn fast. LOL
Thank you in advanced to anyone that helps out.
Great video. My oe was marked. Never showed signs of wear. No wobble. But was chasing a squeeky belt in the winters. New balancer squeak completely gone. Weird how these things can fail in so many different ways.
Thanks for sharing your experience. I forgot to mention a squeeky belt could be another sign. Did you put a cam in when you changed the balancer? 😉
not sure if it had been replaced before but at 120k with some wobble going on i went ati. good vid man, better throw springs on the list did have one of those break but got so so lucky
That's not bad. Thanks for sharing your experience. The spring issue seems more common on the Z06s.
Hey bro..looking at the summit balancer but what’s the difference between over/under drive?
I am now kicking myself for not going with the C2501. I have the Powerbond SFI and I have no doubt it will outlive the engine. My blower pulley is 8 rib and I can't utilize it at this time.
Someone else commented their C2501 didn't hold up with their 8 rib system so now they have me questioning it lol. Idk if I'll upgrade to 8 rib if I ever go with a blower, but we'll see
@@YellowVette04 Good to know. As you know a high end 8 rib balancer is not cheap. :(
Some people will use OEM on restoration Vette or some Particular C5 editions. Is ok to use OEM but you have to check it after some miles. Is a great advice, if this thing fail it can be a horrible scene.
My 1998 C5 have 60k a no wobble jet. But my brother 24hr Lemans c5 was starting to wobble it just have 38k miles.
It's luck of the draw I guess. I've heard them last for over 100k miles and still going after 20 years and some needed replacement back before Facebook. Just make sure your brother monitors it until he's able to replace it. It can get expensive really quick if things go real bad.
@@YellowVette04 He already replace it with a OEM one, his car is a garage Queen, almost never used becuase of the 24hr Lemans edition history. In my case, don't mind to use mine becuase is a base model coupe so I dont feel bad, at least 2,000 miles per year is not bad.
nice will upgrade on my corvette
It's certainly one of those parts you want to do right the first time, since it takes a lot of effort to get back in there and do it. Thanks for watching
I just bought the OEM Balancer!
Nothing wrong with the OEM one. Mine lasted 16 years and still didn't show signs of failing. Others have issues with the OEM balancer so who knows. Thanks for watching and commenting
@@YellowVette04 I ordered a pin kit for it though! Going to pin it for insurance! Great Video!!
56,000 on my 03. I’m 3rd owner not sure if any of the previous owners had replaced it. I’ve got the white paint mark on it, and check it weekly since it’s my daily driver. Belt chirped when I got it so I replaced the belts and pulley on the tensioner. Hasn’t squeaked in the 6,000 miles I put on it. But I did just find that the belt was rubbing on two of the hard lines going to the steering rack. Just bent them out of the way and clamped them to the rack.
Sounds like you're keeping a close eye on it, which is all you can do. Thanks for commenting and sharing your experience.
ASP is also a good balancer. Mid priced, last I knew, cheaper than ATI, but more than your cheaper options. Good balancer. Reason I don't know the price? I put it on over 10 years ago. Running a 25% underdrive on a built LS7 in my C5.
There's definitely some brands I left off this list. I haven't heard of that one, but thanks for sharing your positive experience with it.
The statement about about no rhyme or reason for OEM balancer failure says a lot about this guys understanding of the word "harmonic", and his understanding of this parts function. The oem balancer is tuned to cancel a stock engines destructive harmonic vibrations. Obviously, on a non stock engine, the resonance frequencies are changed, and the OEM part, which contains polymer , not rubber as the video states, will now be the incorrect part to damp destructive harmonic distortions. with any aftermarket balancer, the damping frequency range is needed for the part to work correctly. The new part might be improved in every way, but unless it is tuned to dampen the particular harmonic vibration of the application, unchecked harmonic vibrations will hurt parts, typically the crank bearings go first, the crank follows if nothing is repaired. selecting a part without addressing if it is tuned for your needs, as when putting a racing tuned harmonic balancer on a stock engine, is as uninformed as running racing slicks on the street.
Do you suppose ATI tunes each and every damper it sells to the specific combination of parts selected by every engine builder out there?
Nice job on the video..very informanitive
Thanks for watching and commenting.
I replaced the OEM Balancer with an OEM at 11200 miles on my 2005 C6, The new one started to wobble after 1500 miles. So now I go for an aftermarket balancer.
Sorry to hear about that. I would have thought the OEM Balancer should last longer than that. Thanks for sharing your experience and good luck
One concern, on the dealer invoice the artno is 12675715 OEM balancer, but stamped on the balancer itself it is 594271.Is it the same?
Looks like it's GM part #12560115. That's what I get when I look it up at GM Parts Store. The stamping on mine looks like 591220, there's a lot of dirt buildup on it. As far as I know this is the original balancer on my car, but I can't confirm that.
thanks again for a nice video
Appreciate the comment and thanks for watching
Never had problems with the harmonic balancer on the 86s I had one with 250,000 km on it
That's a long time. They don't make em like they used to lol.
Just curious did you pin your balancer to prevent from possible spinning.
I did not pin it. I'm going to go back and do that once I have time to do so. Good idea to do when it's all apart. Thanks for watching
Have an 03' C5 Base convertible. 15k miles and want to know if it is worth a preventive maintenance swap out.
I would keep an eye on it. If it's not wobbling or showing any other signs of deteriorating then I would leave it for now. Just make sure you track it.
Nice video, how long and how labor intensive was it to replace?
This can be done on jack stands. The hardest and most time consuming thing is removing the steering rack. It can be done in less than a day is you have all parts and tools you need. Most tools can be rented for free from autozone, etc. A shop can probably do it in 4 hours.
That summit 8 rib will NOT work with 8 rib boost setup.Ask me how i know.... Had to go with Innovative 8 rib
I know innovators west makes a solid balancer too. Thanks for sharing your experience
Hey man great video, i just ordered the c2503 for my 03 AE. The difference was the under drive. My car is totally stock and i asked if it would throw off my timing or anything and he said no it just gives little more power to the drive train and such. Please tell me i didnt make a mistake.
The underdrive pulley will add more power to drive train. From what I hear, it may have an adverse reaction to your AC, but I can't confirm or deny that claim. You'll need a new smaller belt as well. If the car is stock, I would use the same size pulley as stock (C2501) since the gains won't be substantial, but it's your car. Depends what your goals are in the future.
To add onto this, im debating between the underdrive and normal pulley from summit. so far I have intake, headers, stage 3 btr cam and exhaust making 400 hp. Would you go with an underdrive or normal pulley
I'm about to order my new damper and was wondering about the whole under drive pulleys. Should I have one installed on a relatively stock LS1?
There's going to be differing opinions, but I would stay with stock size balancer on a mostly stock street car.
Bro, where we're you earlier with this video?! Lol, I purchased the OEM one this spring , install haven't put it on yet , so looks like I'll be shopping at summit, I got few things in my cart already 😀, (install tool, and that balancer, also thinking of purchasing a clutch remote bleeder while I'm at it)
I published the vid back in February, so where you been?? Lol jk. I know there's plenty of guys that put an OEM balancer back in and have no problems, but there's also plenty of cases of failure. The summit balancer isn't expensive compared to OEM, so I think it's insurance that's well worth the money. All good things and the remote bleeder will save you time and aggravation down the road. Good luck with everything.
I was quoted at $350 labor only to replace the HB? San Antonio, Tx.
Anybody know of a Corvette shop cheaper and with trustful quality labor?
That's a pretty good price. I would Google it or check out one of the Facebook groups to see if anybody knows a shop near you. This is an older video, so you may not get an answer here.
Will it cause a bad vibration when you give it gas?
It could, but the vibration could be a few other things as well. You'll definitely see if wobbling if it's the source of the vibration.
Thanks for the info! Any chance you'll be selling merch like the shirt in the video? Not a big fan of black shirts.
Thanks for watching. A friend made this one up for me and I didn't know about the lighter color with yellow, but it looks good. I have to check if I can pick this color in my Etsy Store or not. If you like the smaller flag logo that i was wearing compared to the whole chest logo, shoot me an email and I'll if he can make more, yellowvette04yt@gmail.com
What is the best bolt to use on a new HB? I have heard that people use an ARP bolt or something like that, but most of the things ive read focus on the actual HB brand, not the bolt.
ARP is a popular aftermarket bolt and can be reused multiple times. There's posts that claim the OEM bolt backed out on some people, but it all comes down to how you torque the bolt. There's a sequence to torqueing it properly and the OEM bolt is torque to yield, so you can only use it once. I went with an OEM bolt, it's only a few bucks and the ARP bolt is more of course, but it's not a crazy amount more.
@@YellowVette04 thank you so much!
Quality & powerful info as always brother 👍
Thanks for the support and I appreciate the comment.
@@YellowVette04 absolutely 💯
Thumb 👍thank you
Thanks for watching and hope the video helps.
My summit C2501 arrived today and it has a slot in it. I bought the pinning kit, do i still pin this like the OEM? or is there another process for the slot?
Depends on the pinning kit you got. If you got the kit that drills into the front of the crank, then do it 90° from the keyway. That kit you install the balancer and then drill through both like oem. Keyway is only used if you have the other type of pin kit that drills into the side of the crank.
@@YellowVette04 i have the pinning kit where you drill two holes, 9 o clock and 3 o clock. So your saying i put the key hole in between at 12 o clock or 6 o clock.
Correct. I've only seen guys use 1 pin and not drill both. I don't see any harm in doing two, but it looks like only 1 does the job.
@@YellowVette04 Even GM only does 1 pin.
what number on powerbond ? but i thinking to go with the c2501
for a 2008 z06????
I have a link in the description to the Powerbond Model. Either the Powerbond or Summit are great options for 99% of the owners out there. ATI is great, no doubt about that, but most people don't need it.
How much will it cost to get a shop to do this for me?
I'm not sure what shops cost. I replaced it while I did a cam swap. Best to call around to find the best price. Thanks for watching
@@YellowVette04 props to you, seems like a lot of hard work
@Jesus V it seems overwhelming, but if you have time, tools and patience you can get it done in a weekend with little knowledge and experience doing it. A shop can probably knock it out in 4hrs. Good luck
Mine went on my 91 at 160,000 km
Thanks for sharing. It's weird seeing some go forever and others not going long at all.
Next fix for me
It's a pain getting the steering rack out of the way, but from there it's not too bad. You'll have peace of mind once it's done.
Had a Chevy dealer replace it, less than 1000 miles later... The crank pulley is falling off !!! 🙃🙃🙃
Guessing they replaced it with a oem one.
@@Lion_heart103 seems like they just didn't torque it enough. The bolt was about to fall out
@@Timmyval123 did you took it to the same dealer to have it replaced?
I’ll be doing my next weekend, just bought a vett with 7k miles on it and it’s wobbling like crazy. Last owner only drove it 1k miles in 8 years. Bought a PowerBond balancer and hopefully everything goes smoothly.
I don’t think any aftermarket one would last 15 or 20 years the Oem one don’t start to fail until they get old and on top of that every aftermarket ones weighs 2 to 4 pounds heavier than the oem one I was on the phone with Summit racing for about 45 minutes and we went over just about every damper they had for my corvette they were all a lot heavier Even the guy I talked to on the phone said he would go with the OEM one too.
Oem $100. Aftermarket Ati one $450
GM needs to send their engineers to a material science class
2:52 Damper, not dampener.
Thanks for watching and the clarification
Mine failed at 18,000mi on my 06 corvett
Mime is making noise. 2000 c5
I saw your other comment about putting on a summit balancer. You'll be happy you did. Good luck
Did you pin yours???
I did not. Probably should have when i was in there, but I can pin in it the future without taking everything apart.
A fluidampner and ARP bolt.....dont accept anything less 😉
Definitely a good combo. Thanks for watching and commenting
Fluidampers have a very viscous oil inside of them, they are slow to react to RPM changes. Stock engine fine, boosted engine not so much. Watch the engine on a dyno, harmonics go crazy until the damper catches back up to the RPM. Remember, this is a damper and not a balancer.