I forgot to show that there is a 2nd brake pad behind the rotor. They wear significantly less than the outer pad, so I didn't even think to show it! You can pull the rotor forward, and it will pull off of the shaft. Then you can remove the rear pad.
Watched your "How to Fix Riding Lawnmower Brakes" from Aug 26, 2017. Found the video very useful, but have a question. Upon dissembling my brake for JD LA105, the rotor does not want to come off. Is it held with friction and just need to be pried off? Also, the pad does not fully match with the rotor and wonder if the notch that builds after rotor wears the pad away "bottoms out" against the back pad..
Yours was the only video that showed to depress the brake pedal. That's the only thing I wasn't doing after watching other videos and not getting it to work. But now I understand and it works!
Thank u vary much cause I just bought a riding mower today and I went 45miles away I didn't know it didn't have breaks tell I was putting it on the trailer at home me and my wife was shocked the salesman didn't tell us I'm just happy it didn't go flying off the back of the trailer and everyone trusted my strapping abilities cause I use to work for a business with that type of work so I knew what I was doing think god I got home safely and mowing a lawn and came home to find this video about what the hell was going on with the breaks it set outside for two years bought it for 250 only thing I did today was change oil and replace blades and battery now on to break kitvor clean them I want to thank u again and I hit the like button and I'm new to your channel
Thanks for such a complete and thorough job on each step of repairing the brakes on a rider mower. This is the best video on this topic that I have seen on RUclips
Just curios you did such a wonderful job why not pull the rotor off bust off the rust chunks on both sides and clean it up and pull the pad out and check it ? When you apply the brakes all that rust and pits will chew up the pads
Thank you I just bought a simplicty Tractor and I had no idea how the breaks worked. This thing currently has no breaks at all I have to put it into neutral to stop it. This video is going to be extremely Helpful in the break repair much appreciated.
I've watched several videos on this subject. I didn't see you replace the pad behind the rotor. But other than that this is the best video I've seen on the replacement of lawnmower brakes.
Pad in behind usually wears much slower than the pad in the front, I didn't even replace it because it still had quite a bit left. However, I agree that I should've included that as well!
Well, I need a bit of help. The rotor on my Dynamark has been on it for 50 years. I can't get it off to change the inner pad. Any suggestions on how to get it off?
I just bought a trailer for my mower - but it was completely unsafe to have any weight from a trailer pushing it down a hill (heck, it’s been unsafe for a year just by itself to mow) - but getting a tow behind trailer, I knew the brakes had to be fixed. I just got the job done and it’s perfect! Thanks again.
I like how you point out if a part is suppost to look bent cause man I drove myself crazy sometimes thinking something's bent or dosnt look right when doing rebuilds
I’ve been watching your videos for about two years now very informative and you helped me out a lot greatly appreciated and yes I have to do brakes on my mower thank you
I'm hoping this helps with my MDT Rider, mowed the front and back, it was fine, parked in the shed, went to get it out and it's locked up, guess I'll have to give it a look. Thanks for the video!
One point..would you want the pad to engage the disc when in the max travel position? If set to engage mid-range there would be additional travel available, in order to be able to apply additional pressure on the disc, if required. Helpful video though.
Brilliant! Best video on this subject by far. A question you may be able to assist with: On my niece's John Deere 102 the brake & clutch share the same pedal. Re the Clutch part - It needs to reach the outermost of its travel and takes up savagely. Any ideas on how to overcome this one?
www.amazon.ca/gp/aw/d/B07HNQ26WT?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_image That's the one I'm using now, you'll have to search for the smaller 3L one as I no longer have the link for that!
Yea for the peerless transmissions they're mostly all the same size, go to any small engine shop and ask for riding mower brake pads they should have them
Thanks for the video. I’ve just about had it with near accidents because I can’t brake on hills. I own 3 tractors, and only one of them brakes. Go figure.
Great video!!! Are the inner pads the same as the outside? If different do you have a link to purchase those as well? I have a Dynamark very similar to this and would like to give it some much needed new brakes also.
Thanks a lot! This project will be added to the usual maintanance over the winter to get the ol' mower ready for next spring. Thanks and subscribed! :-)
@@EliminatorPerformance if you want to get really technical, with the brake pedal off and the linkage loose. The adjusting locknut, the clearance between pad and the disk should be 0.020" using a feeler gauge
Great help! I’ve retired to a do everything yourself homestead, and have been maintaining all equipment myself. You’ve got a new subscriber. If you can tell me how to speed up satellite internet, I could watch your channel without all of the buffering. 😊
I replaced all 3 belts on my craftsman riding mower...now the gas petal is hard to press down on it ..it's seems stuck ..any suggestions to fix it .. thank you .. Ezequiel
HotRodBriggs 60102 that's a good point, I've done some searching and haven't been able to find anything. Best advice I could give, is look for a model number on your transmission, then go into a small engine shop and ask them to get a disc. You'd need a part number, but would have to get the trans type figured out 1st. Best of luck!
Eliminator Performance Thank you very much, I'll go to my local shop tomorrow to find my disk, it's for a racing mower with with a peerless 671a transmission. You earned a sub btw
Never changed that because usually they take longer to wear down, but you should inspect them! The brake rotor is on a keyed shaft, should just slide off!
Pins rusted shut and on a hill lost engine power Cracked open my head ER put in 8 staples in my head face scraped up. Knoked me out and I do not know how long. EMT sorta woke me up but due to me going in and out sent me to ER. I was lucky and very stupid. I know the breaks were not right and i did not find out until I almost die. On my riding MTB the pad was good the pins after hammering out were good (filed down till free). I would suggest spraying pins with a silicon or min WD40 every wash and test for pin rust lockup. Anitseszz may work but heavy waterproof grease on the pins is better.
Thanks Pins rusty but fixed with a file Pad was slightly worn flat filed the pad Pad plate rusty filed smooth. WD40 minimum every wash and maybe silicone spray on pins or White Lithium Grease pins.
Great point! I think I may have forgotten to show that, usually they don't wear out as quickly as the caliper side pads do. And if you don't remove the rotor (brake disc) then it won't fall out. I believe I inspected it and it was fine, so I think I just left it.
Good video. How about doing something on a belt driven rear engine rider Mower. My sister has a Murray rear engine rider that needs brake repair or adjustment. The model number is Model # 30544X92D Serial # 7238401672B00080 D.O.M. 96081
Dude that Dynamark is likely from 1974 how do you get belt information on a rider this old, never even heard of this machine almost looks like Ford colour.
I forgot to show that there is a 2nd brake pad behind the rotor. They wear significantly less than the outer pad, so I didn't even think to show it! You can pull the rotor forward, and it will pull off of the shaft. Then you can remove the rear pad.
Watched your "How to Fix Riding Lawnmower Brakes" from Aug 26, 2017. Found the video very useful, but have a question. Upon dissembling my brake for JD LA105, the rotor does not want to come off. Is it held with friction and just need to be pried off? Also, the pad does not fully match with the rotor and wonder if the notch that builds after rotor wears the pad away "bottoms out" against the back pad..
Thorough, step by step accompanied with common language a person new to stuck brakes can understand. thank you for teaching
Yours was the only video that showed to depress the brake pedal. That's the only thing I wasn't doing after watching other videos and not getting it to work. But now I understand and it works!
Thank u vary much cause I just bought a riding mower today and I went 45miles away I didn't know it didn't have breaks tell I was putting it on the trailer at home me and my wife was shocked the salesman didn't tell us I'm just happy it didn't go flying off the back of the trailer and everyone trusted my strapping abilities cause I use to work for a business with that type of work so I knew what I was doing think god I got home safely and mowing a lawn and came home to find this video about what the hell was going on with the breaks it set outside for two years bought it for 250 only thing I did today was change oil and replace blades and battery now on to break kitvor clean them I want to thank u again and I hit the like button and I'm new to your channel
Thanks for such a complete and thorough job on each step of repairing the brakes on a rider mower. This is the best video on this topic that I have seen on RUclips
Thanks for the kind words, and thanks for watching John!
Just curios you did such a wonderful job why not pull the rotor off bust off the rust chunks on both sides and clean it up and pull the pad out and check it ? When you apply the brakes all that rust and pits will chew up the pads
Thank you I just bought a simplicty Tractor and I had no idea how the breaks worked. This thing currently has no breaks at all I have to put it into neutral to stop it. This video is going to be extremely Helpful in the break repair much appreciated.
I am not mechanically enthused... and found this video extremely helpful! Thanks for making it!
This is one of the most outstanding videos I have seen on this subject. Thank you so much for the lecture.
Thanks for watching!
I’ve been fixing my mowers for years, Just for the simple fact we don’t have a small engine shop were I live. Good video, thanks for sharing.. 👍
Thanks for watching Harlan!
I've watched several videos on this subject. I didn't see you replace the pad behind the rotor. But other than that this is the best video I've seen on the replacement of lawnmower brakes.
Pad in behind usually wears much slower than the pad in the front, I didn't even replace it because it still had quite a bit left.
However, I agree that I should've included that as well!
@@EliminatorPerformance did you confirm that rotor was sliding on the shaft. Not sliding would be a good reason for inside pad not wearing.
Worked a treat. She stops now. I thank you. And my shed wall thanks you as well!!
Thanks for watching!
A great simple video that makes it easy
Well, I need a bit of help. The rotor on my Dynamark has been on it for 50 years. I can't get it off to change the inner pad. Any suggestions on how to get it off?
Awesome bud - thanks. I've made less than 10 comments on RUclips but your help is worthy of a big thank you! And a giant like 👍🏻
Thanks for watching!
I just bought a trailer for my mower - but it was completely unsafe to have any weight from a trailer pushing it down a hill (heck, it’s been unsafe for a year just by itself to mow) - but getting a tow behind trailer, I knew the brakes had to be fixed. I just got the job done and it’s perfect! Thanks again.
thanks, I was wondering why my peddle was so low. i will try this fix
Well,, now I fully understand how to fix my brakes; Thanks
This thing looks like a race mower! Awesome!
I like how you point out if a part is suppost to look bent cause man I drove myself crazy sometimes thinking something's bent or dosnt look right when doing rebuilds
Yea that's what engages the pins when it turns, thanks for watching!
Very clear explanation. Just fixed my own with this advice!
Thanks for the kind words!
I’ve been watching your videos for about two years now very informative and you helped me out a lot greatly appreciated and yes I have to do brakes on my mower thank you
Thanks for watching!
I'm hoping this helps with my MDT Rider, mowed the front and back, it was fine, parked in the shed, went to get it out and it's locked up, guess I'll have to give it a look. Thanks for the video!
Thanks for the detailed explanation!
Thanks, Very straight forward and easy to understand
Thanks! I can now get rid of my emergency anchor.
Great video! Answered almost all my questions!! The one unanswered....If the rotor turns freely, then what stops the tractor?
I think when the little metal strip moves it engages and disengages the pads. Or puts pressure off or on them when you press on the brake pedal.
Thoroughly explained in detail, very informative. And very little anti-seize or you'll look like the Tin Man!
Thanks for watching!
great stuff , is there anything you can put on your brakes so they don"t freeze up , because mine freezes up when i plow my driveway at times ?
Thanks for watching Garlo, and yes you could try some Permatex Nicely Anti-seize or possibly a white lithium grease!
Very plain and simple, thanx for a great video!!
Thanks for watching!
Nice trick with the painters tape and use of the Permatex Nickel Antiseize
Excellent teaching skills thanks
Thanks for watching!
Thanks for the easy instructional 🙇
One point..would you want the pad to engage the disc when in the max travel position? If set to engage mid-range there would be additional travel available, in order to be able to apply additional pressure on the disc, if required. Helpful video though.
Brilliant! Best video on this subject by far. A question you may be able to assist with: On my niece's John Deere 102 the brake & clutch share the same pedal. Re the Clutch part - It needs to reach the outermost of its travel and takes up savagely. Any ideas on how to overcome this one?
This is really great stuff guy. Thanks a lot.
My rotor is in bad shape and is discontinued here. Might there be way to source one up there?
You saved me a hell of a lot of time thank you so much.
Could you provide a link to the ultrasonic cleaner you mentioned in the video? Thx
www.amazon.ca/gp/aw/d/B07HNQ26WT?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_image
That's the one I'm using now, you'll have to search for the smaller 3L one as I no longer have the link for that!
Excellent video!! Thanks for sharing your knowledge! 👍
Thanks Bruce!
Great job.. Very detailed.
I have a Weedeater One riding mower that needs new brakes, how many do I have to order
Very well done. Simple, clean & concise direction. Thank you very much, you have just freed my day up that much more.
Great video! I have a new project for the weekend.👍
Thanks for watching!
Is all the brake pads the same size for every riding lawnmower?
Yea for the peerless transmissions they're mostly all the same size, go to any small engine shop and ask for riding mower brake pads they should have them
Awesome thanks alot for the info
Dam, the whole contraption on mine came loose so the rods fell out along with the pad and back plate. I wonder where to get new Replacement rods?
Excellent video. Thanks.
Thanks for watching!
Excellent explanation
Troybilt pony 7 speed transmission will only go up a hill in high gear besides low gear You have any ideas?????
Thanks for the video. I’ve just about had it with near accidents because I can’t brake on hills. I own 3 tractors, and only one of them brakes. Go figure.
Thanks for watching, good luck!
I put new breaks on and they clamp the plate correctly but it still won't stop, could something be stripped out inside the rear
Great video!!! Are the inner pads the same as the outside? If different do you have a link to purchase those as well? I have a Dynamark very similar to this and would like to give it some much needed new brakes also.
They are the same! Just make sure you don't put it in sideways, as I believe it's supposed to go in a certain way.
Thanks a lot! This project will be added to the usual maintanance over the winter to get the ol' mower ready for next spring. Thanks and subscribed! :-)
No problem, that's what I'm here for!
Great video explanation
Awesome trick! Thanks for sharing!
+the frugal landlord thanks for watching, don't forget to subscribe 👍
very informative video, thanks for posting and sharing the tips, the tape is a great idea, simple and effective!!!
zmanvideo1 thanks!
Hey I have a craftsman riding mower and when I press the break it doesn't stop what should I do?
Follow the steps in this video and replace the brake pads!
Or you could just adjust the nut on the brake so it engages sooner!
@@EliminatorPerformance if you want to get really technical, with the brake pedal off and the linkage loose. The adjusting locknut, the clearance between pad and the disk should be 0.020" using a feeler gauge
Excellent 👍 thank you.
on my ARIENS 42 GEAR RIDING MOWER MY BRAKE PEDAL IS really hard to push WITH MY FOOT TO START MOWER..WHY IS THIS SO? PLEASE HELP
Very helpful!
Great help! I’ve retired to a do everything yourself homestead, and have been maintaining all equipment myself. You’ve got a new subscriber. If you can tell me how to speed up satellite internet, I could watch your channel without all of the buffering. 😊
I have no idea, but I'm sure There's a video online how to speed it up. Thanks for watching!
Excellent Work. 7/28/2023yr
I replaced all 3 belts on my craftsman riding mower...now the gas petal is hard to press down on it ..it's seems stuck ..any suggestions to fix it .. thank you .. Ezequiel
It's a craftsman t1800
Thank you for video!
Great video, thank you for sharing the info!
Thank you for the kind words, don't forget to subscribe if you haven't already!
This was good video.
Thanks Jarkko!
Well done! Thanks for the tips.JD
Thanks for watching!
Rust and stuff will always stick them if you let it set for over a year, keep it dry and out of weather
Antizee the pins and bolts
My rotor stops but the tires keep spinning any thoughts
Awesome video!!! Thanks
Thank for sharing
Do you know where I could buy a new disk? Mines toast and I need brakes for my mower.
I'd check Amazon or eBay!
Eliminator Performance I checked those, all the disks for sale are splined not keyed.
HotRodBriggs 60102 that's a good point, I've done some searching and haven't been able to find anything.
Best advice I could give, is look for a model number on your transmission, then go into a small engine shop and ask them to get a disc.
You'd need a part number, but would have to get the trans type figured out 1st.
Best of luck!
Eliminator Performance Thank you very much, I'll go to my local shop tomorrow to find my disk, it's for a racing mower with with a peerless 671a transmission. You earned a sub btw
thought that there is another pad behind the brake disc but you didn,t check that one ,I maybe wrong
Yes there is but they rarely wear out so I usually find I don't have to check them
Awesome. Thanks!
Great video
Thank You Sir
Thanks for watching!
My disc will not rotate?? Tire off ground frame resting on stand and in neutral brake rotor does not rotate
Brake pad could be too tight
What about the pad behind the disc?
Never changed that because usually they take longer to wear down, but you should inspect them!
The brake rotor is on a keyed shaft, should just slide off!
Pins rusted shut and on a hill lost engine power Cracked open my head ER put in 8 staples in my head face scraped up. Knoked me out and I do not know how long. EMT sorta woke me up but due to me going in and out sent me to ER.
I was lucky and very stupid.
I know the breaks were not right and i did not find out until I almost die.
On my riding MTB the pad was good the pins after hammering out were good (filed down till free). I would suggest spraying pins with a silicon or min WD40 every wash and test for pin rust lockup.
Anitseszz may work but heavy waterproof grease on the pins is better.
Thanks
Pins rusty but fixed with a file
Pad was slightly worn flat filed the pad
Pad plate rusty filed smooth.
WD40 minimum every wash and maybe silicone spray on pins or White Lithium Grease pins.
What no pad in the back side?
There is, but they are in a fixed position and usually don't require changing.
Good vid dude njcley done nowasted time fn around.thankyou
Thanks for watching Mark!
brilliant!
Thank You !
Thanks for watching!
How to fit new brake pads on my counntax k14 lawnmower
Very good question, I'm not too sure! Should be the same as the Craftsmans if it uses the same transmission.
What about the inside pad?
Great point!
I think I may have forgotten to show that, usually they don't wear out as quickly as the caliper side pads do.
And if you don't remove the rotor (brake disc) then it won't fall out.
I believe I inspected it and it was fine, so I think I just left it.
Nice tutorial..../
Thanks for watching!
Good video. How about doing something on a belt driven rear engine rider Mower. My sister has a Murray rear engine rider that needs brake repair or adjustment. The model number is Model # 30544X92D
Serial # 7238401672B00080
D.O.M. 96081
Dude that Dynamark is likely from 1974 how do you get belt information on a rider this old, never even heard of this machine almost looks like Ford colour.
Wayne Stefinashen Will be on the full video!
with that model you could drop one notch on the pedal and then it would last longer before you have to readjust
Can you let me get more than 3 second in before hitting me with another ad ffs
thanks brother. great video.
Super helpful!