This is how "how to" videos should be done. I'm not trying to watch a bad sitcom about mechanics blabbering on with the guys behind the camera, I just want detailed instructions from a qualified expert. Can you please do a similar video on the rear brakes? I can't find a good one like yours. Cheers!
Echoing other’s comments here. Best DIY video I’ve seen. Period. Changed rotors and brake pads today on 2014 Odyssey. I’ve paid to have it done a couple times before - I won’t pay for someone else to do it again!This was Seemless…. Thanks to your video. Cannot thank you enough!
Thanks for the great video! I made an outline of it to help guide me. Here it is if others might find it useful: Tools Needed: Torque wrench Impact screw driver Wire brush or wire wheel Acetone C-clamp Flat blade screwdriver Hammer Gloves Paper towels Jack Stands 12mm socket 14mm socket 19mm wrench 19mm socket • Permatex 09128 Copper Anti-Seize Lubricant • Permatex 24005 Medium Strength Thread Lock • 3M Silicone Paste, 08946 • CRC BRAKLEEN Brake Parts Cleaner TORQUE: Caliper Mounting Bracket Bolts - 101 Ft-lb Caliper flange bolts - 37 FT-lb Lug nuts - 94 ft-lb 1. Open brake fluid reservoir 2. Loosen Lug nuts 3. Jack car up 4. Remove tire 5. Please tire under car 6. Turn wheel for better access 7. Remove brake hose mounting bolt with 12 mm socket 8.Remove caliper flange bolts using 14 mm socket and 19 mm wrench. 9. Remove bottom bolt first. 10.Remove top bolt while holding caliper so it does not fall down. 11. Place caliper on upside down 5 gallon bucket. 12. Remove brake pads, shims, and springs. 13. Remove two large bolts holding caliper bracket mounting bolts with 19 mm impact socket. 14. Remove caliper bracket knuckle and set aside. 15. Remove a rotor a factory screw with screwdriver. You may need an impact screwdriver. 16. Remove old rotor once the screw has been removed. You may need to use a rubber mallet to free rotor or 8 mm extraction bolts. 17. Use steel brush to clean hub surface and hub ring. 18. Clean hub surface with brake cleaner. 19. Apply anti seize to hub surface. 20. Put new rotor on and use lug nut to hold in place. 21. Put anti seize on rotor screw and install. 22. Clean back and front of brake rotor with brake cleaner. 23. Remove brake caliper clips and throw away. 24. Clean with wire brush and brake cleaner. 25. Remove and clean guide pins with acetone. 26. Replace slide pin boots if in kit or damaged. 27. Brush on silicone paste onto guide pin. Pin should move freely. 28. Apply anti seize to spring clip wear points. 29. Insert new spring clips 30. Replace caliper bracket 31. Apply thread lock to bracket bolts. Tighten to 101 ft lbs 32. Clean pistons 33. Compress pistons with clamp 34. Clean side opposite of pistons with wire brush and brake cleaner. 35. Put anti seize on wear surfaces 36. Clean brake pads with brake cleaner 37. Put anti seize on back of pads, on shims, and on ears of pads. 38. Install pads. 39. Install brake return springs. Put caliper with top bolt only to hold pads in place with clamp on bottom of pads while putting on bottom spring. 40. Slide down caliper while removing clamp. Make sure nothing moves out of place. 41. Tighten both caliper flange bolts to 37 foot lbs. Tighten inside nuts down as well. 42. Reinstall brake hose mounting bolt. 43. Clean rotor one more time with brake fluid cleaner. 44. Mount wheel and snug up lug nuts. 45. Lower vehicle and torque lug nuts to 94 foot lbs. 46. Close brake fluid reservoir 47. Pump brakes with small strokes 4-5 times until firm resistance. 48. Test drive vehicle.
Very nice; thanks. You should add “replace brake fluid reservoir cap” before pumping brakes. And at step #43 clean rotor one more time with brake CLEANER (not fluid).
Just followed this guide to a TEE and everything went so smoothly. Roughly 88,000kms on my odyssey. Rotor screw took a few shots of the impact and everything was good. Thank you. Amazing guide!!
Very good video and production. This is better than some "expert" level videos I've seen. You Skipped a step. The holes for the caliper guide pins need to be cleaned as well.
This is expert quality instruction. Well done. I've watched at least 20 different videos this week trying to learn brake replacement, and this video appears to have all the best practices from all the videos. It's really close to the ChrisFix video.
Similar to the comment below, just swapped the rotors and pads at the weekend following this video and no more shimmy on braking. Thanks for an excellent video 👍
Thank you! Thank you! Thank you! For putting this video together. I was able to replace the rotors and pads with your guidance. Extremely informative and well put together video! You are very much appreciated!
Bro....thanks a ton. You saved my butt. I was having a super tough time trying to turn the bolts. But then I realize you said to turn the steering wheel so it's easier to work on. I did that, and I finally had enough clearance to use a longer pipe over my wrench for more torque! Duh! I should have thought of turning the wheel myself.... I ended up having to drill out the rotor screw. And I did not bother putting a replacement back on.
@@threesonsrestorations4043 Really amazing and I can’t thank you enough for all of this info. I just received the pads and rotors all thanks to your suggestion and I’m planning on doing the install tomorrow. I can’t thank you enough. 🤟🏼
What a great video. Channels like this blow my mind. Logo was created. Professional level video created. Channel started. Then 4 videos and done. This channel would have had millions of subscribers.
That pin seemed very hard to move up and down after you put it in. Those brackets are like 100 ft lbs torque, don't think anti seize is needed for that high of a torque but never hurts I guess. :)Great video, thanks.
As others commented, really awesome video. At 2:02 - I'm curious why you replaced the brake pad with so much life still left. Were you trying to fix a case of brake judder?
About those retaining screws on Honda rotors. Those are JIS heads, not Philips. The reason so many people strip out those screws and then have to drill them is because they're trying to unscrew them with a philips head screwdriver. Use a impact driver with a JIS head like an Impacta 980, and it will come out.
Good vid. You may want to update your description and / or pin a comment... The Centric 117.40052 Front Disc Brake Hardware Kit seems to no longer contain the little rubber booties for the slider pins. They still show the boots in the product images, but the boots did not arrive in my package. Additionally, the hardware (sans booties) already ships with the Akebono pads, so buying the Centric kit seems unnecessary. If you need the booties, Autozone and the like has them for 6ish bucks.
Very precise! Very good walk through! You even referenced Honda OEM documents. Thank you for this. I know how to do this but I like to research because I do not do this very often. One question... I've seen so many different models of pads/rotors on eBay. How do I choose? Are the drilled holes and/or slots of benefit?
Thank you! About rotors/pads....ask five guys, and you'll get five different answers :-). I used Rockauto, looked up my vehicle, then looked at the "daily driver" choices so I was familiar with the options. Then used anecdotal evidence from OdyClub to see what owners were saying about the various options. It seems the Centric/Akebono combo is a commonly-recommended set, because they are quiet and produce little dust as compared to factory. It's my understanding that drilled/slotted rotors don't do much to improve performance (not on a van, anyway), can be a bit noisier than regular rotors, and may be harder on the pads. Rotors are cheap. I don't see the need to pay extra for something cool-looking when I can just replace as needed.
💥 I already thanked you immensely for this info. 1:20 Damn this part isn’t going well. I got both off on one side and one on the other but one of them just won’t break free. I’m holding it back with the 19mm but you can’t just put the open end wrench on the backside and attempt to break the caliper bolt free with the 14mm if things are frozen up. The 19 just pops off and I’m starting to strip it. So frustrating since the other 3 broke loose so easily. I’m trying to do the double open end approach for extra leverage but it’s still on the verge of stripping that 19mm hold back bolt. 😤
I usually prefer to open the bleed screw to purge the old fluid from the caliper as I retract the pistons. Close the bleed screw after the pistons are retracted, and no air should be introduced, so no further bleeding is necessary. Siphon out most of the fluid from the brake reservoir and add back fresh fluid. Periodic brake fluid changes goes a long way in preventing sticking calipers over the long haul.
This is how "how to" videos should be done. I'm not trying to watch a bad sitcom about mechanics blabbering on with the guys behind the camera, I just want detailed instructions from a qualified expert. Can you please do a similar video on the rear brakes? I can't find a good one like yours. Cheers!
Echoing other’s comments here. Best DIY video I’ve seen. Period. Changed rotors and brake pads today on 2014 Odyssey. I’ve paid to have it done a couple times before - I won’t pay for someone else to do it again!This was Seemless…. Thanks to your video.
Cannot thank you enough!
this is the absolute best how-to video i have seen on youtube. perfectly paced and thorough and great production value!
Glad you enjoyed it!
Thanks for the great video! I made an outline of it to help guide me. Here it is if others might find it useful:
Tools Needed:
Torque wrench
Impact screw driver
Wire brush or wire wheel
Acetone
C-clamp
Flat blade screwdriver
Hammer
Gloves
Paper towels
Jack Stands
12mm socket
14mm socket
19mm wrench
19mm socket
• Permatex 09128 Copper Anti-Seize Lubricant
• Permatex 24005 Medium Strength Thread Lock
• 3M Silicone Paste, 08946
• CRC BRAKLEEN Brake Parts Cleaner
TORQUE:
Caliper Mounting Bracket Bolts - 101 Ft-lb
Caliper flange bolts - 37 FT-lb
Lug nuts - 94 ft-lb
1. Open brake fluid reservoir
2. Loosen Lug nuts
3. Jack car up
4. Remove tire
5. Please tire under car
6. Turn wheel for better access
7. Remove brake hose mounting bolt with 12 mm socket
8.Remove caliper flange bolts using 14 mm socket and 19 mm wrench.
9. Remove bottom bolt first.
10.Remove top bolt while holding caliper so it does not fall down.
11. Place caliper on upside down 5 gallon bucket.
12. Remove brake pads, shims, and springs.
13. Remove two large bolts holding caliper bracket mounting bolts with 19 mm impact socket.
14. Remove caliper bracket knuckle and set aside.
15. Remove a rotor a factory screw with screwdriver. You may need an impact screwdriver.
16. Remove old rotor once the screw has been removed. You may need to use a rubber mallet to free rotor or 8 mm extraction bolts.
17. Use steel brush to clean hub surface and hub ring.
18. Clean hub surface with brake cleaner.
19. Apply anti seize to hub surface.
20. Put new rotor on and use lug nut to hold in place.
21. Put anti seize on rotor screw and install.
22. Clean back and front of brake rotor with brake cleaner.
23. Remove brake caliper clips and throw away.
24. Clean with wire brush and brake cleaner.
25. Remove and clean guide pins with acetone.
26. Replace slide pin boots if in kit or damaged.
27. Brush on silicone paste onto guide pin. Pin should move freely.
28. Apply anti seize to spring clip wear points.
29. Insert new spring clips
30. Replace caliper bracket
31. Apply thread lock to bracket bolts.
Tighten to 101 ft lbs
32. Clean pistons
33. Compress pistons with clamp
34. Clean side opposite of pistons with wire brush and brake cleaner.
35. Put anti seize on wear surfaces
36. Clean brake pads with brake cleaner
37. Put anti seize on back of pads, on shims, and on ears of pads.
38. Install pads.
39. Install brake return springs. Put caliper with top bolt only to hold pads in place with clamp on bottom of pads while putting on bottom spring.
40. Slide down caliper while removing clamp. Make sure nothing moves out of place.
41. Tighten both caliper flange bolts to 37 foot lbs. Tighten inside nuts down as well.
42. Reinstall brake hose mounting bolt.
43. Clean rotor one more time with brake fluid cleaner.
44. Mount wheel and snug up lug nuts.
45. Lower vehicle and torque lug nuts to 94 foot lbs.
46. Close brake fluid reservoir
47. Pump brakes with small strokes 4-5 times until firm resistance.
48. Test drive vehicle.
Very nice; thanks. You should add “replace brake fluid reservoir cap” before pumping brakes. And at step #43 clean rotor one more time with brake CLEANER (not fluid).
Just followed this guide to a TEE and everything went so smoothly. Roughly 88,000kms on my odyssey. Rotor screw took a few shots of the impact and everything was good. Thank you. Amazing guide!!
The best of the best “how to video”. Thank you
Very good video and production. This is better than some "expert" level videos I've seen.
You Skipped a step. The holes for the caliper guide pins need to be cleaned as well.
Followed this and used the centric rotors and akebono pads and hardware. No more shimmy during braking. Excellent guide. Thanks!
This is one of the best tutorial videos on this topic on the internet. Thank you!
This is expert quality instruction. Well done. I've watched at least 20 different videos this week trying to learn brake replacement, and this video appears to have all the best practices from all the videos. It's really close to the ChrisFix video.
Thank you very much!
I don’t even like cars much but this video was super thorough and easy to follow. Now I want to replace my brakes and calipers!
Outstanding video! The “C” clamp trick is excellent!
Followed your instructions, worked beautifully!
Similar to the comment below, just swapped the rotors and pads at the weekend following this video and no more shimmy on braking. Thanks for an excellent video 👍
Thank you! Thank you! Thank you! For putting this video together. I was able to replace the rotors and pads with your guidance. Extremely informative and well put together video! You are very much appreciated!
You made this look super easy and I can't wait to replace my own when the time comes by following your video.
Bro....thanks a ton. You saved my butt. I was having a super tough time trying to turn the bolts. But then I realize you said to turn the steering wheel so it's easier to work on. I did that, and I finally had enough clearance to use a longer pipe over my wrench for more torque! Duh! I should have thought of turning the wheel myself....
I ended up having to drill out the rotor screw. And I did not bother putting a replacement back on.
💥💥 Best brake tutorial of all time 🏆
Wow, thanks!
@@threesonsrestorations4043 Really amazing and I can’t thank you enough for all of this info. I just received the pads and rotors all thanks to your suggestion and I’m planning on doing the install tomorrow. I can’t thank you enough. 🤟🏼
What a great video. Channels like this blow my mind. Logo was created. Professional level video created. Channel started. Then 4 videos and done. This channel would have had millions of subscribers.
Outstanding video. The part on the guide pins and the rubber boots helped me out this time around.
I just finished my brakes. Thanks for the info 👍
Thank you for sharing! You did an excellent job in creating this video, clear and very easy to follow.
You're very welcome!
This is a great video very comprehensive and thorough
thank u for detailed and clear explanation!
Awesome video, very detailed, clear instructions and very concise...
That pin seemed very hard to move up and down after you put it in. Those brackets are like 100 ft lbs torque, don't think anti seize is needed for that high of a torque but never hurts I guess. :)Great video, thanks.
I’m hoping you’ll do more Honda Odyssey videos. Oil change? Transmission flush?
Excellent video! .. thank you.
Awesome ❤ love to learn any thing
Do you have video for back rotors and pads?
As others commented, really awesome video. At 2:02 - I'm curious why you replaced the brake pad with so much life still left. Were you trying to fix a case of brake judder?
Great video, guys. Thanks!
About those retaining screws on Honda rotors. Those are JIS heads, not Philips. The reason so many people strip out those screws and then have to drill them is because they're trying to unscrew them with a philips head screwdriver. Use a impact driver with a JIS head like an Impacta 980, and it will come out.
Great video.
If i cant fimd the copper anti seize near me would it be ok to use one thats a blend of aluminum, copper and graphite
Good vid. You may want to update your description and / or pin a comment... The Centric 117.40052 Front Disc Brake Hardware Kit seems to no longer contain the little rubber booties for the slider pins. They still show the boots in the product images, but the boots did not arrive in my package. Additionally, the hardware (sans booties) already ships with the Akebono pads, so buying the Centric kit seems unnecessary. If you need the booties, Autozone and the like has them for 6ish bucks.
Very precise! Very good walk through! You even referenced Honda OEM documents. Thank you for this. I know how to do this but I like to research because I do not do this very often. One question... I've seen so many different models of pads/rotors on eBay. How do I choose? Are the drilled holes and/or slots of benefit?
Thank you! About rotors/pads....ask five guys, and you'll get five different answers :-). I used Rockauto, looked up my vehicle, then looked at the "daily driver" choices so I was familiar with the options. Then used anecdotal evidence from OdyClub to see what owners were saying about the various options. It seems the Centric/Akebono combo is a commonly-recommended set, because they are quiet and produce little dust as compared to factory.
It's my understanding that drilled/slotted rotors don't do much to improve performance (not on a van, anyway), can be a bit noisier than regular rotors, and may be harder on the pads. Rotors are cheap. I don't see the need to pay extra for something cool-looking when I can just replace as needed.
💥 I already thanked you immensely for this info. 1:20 Damn this part isn’t going well. I got both off on one side and one on the other but one of them just won’t break free. I’m holding it back with the 19mm but you can’t just put the open end wrench on the backside and attempt to break the caliper bolt free with the 14mm if things are frozen up. The 19 just pops off and I’m starting to strip it. So frustrating since the other 3 broke loose so easily. I’m trying to do the double open end approach for extra leverage but it’s still on the verge of stripping that 19mm hold back bolt. 😤
I didn’t see you put thread locker on the caliper flange bolts. Do they not need it, or should not have it applied? Thanks for a great video!
No, they do not need thread locker. Thank you!
So when are you coming out with your AUTO TV SHOW. Really you should have one. Great video.
Nice 👍
Where did you but the Rotors and the pad is it honda parts rotors ?
RockAuto
Is the procedure same for the 2019?
Most likely, yes
Did u bleed it after
No. The only thing I did was to bed the pads.
I usually prefer to open the bleed screw to purge the old fluid from the caliper as I retract the pistons. Close the bleed screw after the pistons are retracted, and no air should be introduced, so no further bleeding is necessary. Siphon out most of the fluid from the brake reservoir and add back fresh fluid.
Periodic brake fluid changes goes a long way in preventing sticking calipers over the long haul.
Gahh, why do Honda's need to have the rotor retainer screw. Why!?