Underrated cheap upgrates for a faster bike : - choose top tube bags over saddle bags - one water bottle on the middle pocket of your jersey or a hydratation bag - hip pack - helmet with a naca top vent - duct tape to cover some gaps (cranks, stem, ...) - some plastic caps to unclosure hexagonal screws - small aero bars - wheel cover for the rear wheel Some mudguards can improve bike aerodynamic. Generating vortex over rider legs is interessing too.
Good video! Thanks for sharing it. Where did your t-shirt and the print of the overhead bike view in the background come from? They are cool and look like they might be the same artist.
@cyclingunboxed I'm currently running 28's with TPU 45 psi rear and 40psi Front but silca is giving me 73psi if I choose latex. bike+rider+gear = 160 lbs.
It’s quite a light system! For me that sounds more like a gravel tyre kind of pressure (very high for gravel though) I guess it’s what the calculator suggests will be your fastest psi. Are the roads your ride smooth? If so you can get away with a higher psi. If it’s too low you run the risk of a pinch flat or a “snake bite” in the tyre We do know that running under its still faster than running too high like we used to, 100psi+ Josh (owner of silca) does suggest running 10psi lower than that if you want to maintain comfort and speed. He has also said that they used to get people writing in saying that the psi suggested for them is way too low but has now said it has gone the other way and a lot think his calculations are too high. If you really want to dive deep, he covers it all in the marginal gains podcast, there are hell of a lot to c watch up on though!
It’s because you can pace yourself correctly for a given effort. If you go out too hard you will slow down later on. So theoretically you will average more power for a given effort. Does that make sense?
Sadly, in a lot of the UK nowadays (especially up north) the roads are so bad when choosing tyres rolling resistance alone is not the only consideration any more. 😐
I just need to comment on one specific aspect of some of the "upgrades" you talked about, and that is weight. Let's think of the bike in its entirety as a system from a physics standpoint. The key to making that system move faster down the road is to reduce friction and drag. So what does that? As you discussed, tires and tubes with less rolling resistance. Clothing and positioning on the bike that creates less drag, a lubed chain reduces friction in the system. But rolling weight? It has literally zero effect unless you start talking about significant weight. A set of wheels weighing 1600 grams and a set of wheels weighing 1200 grams, if the aerodynamics is the same, will have no difference regarding speed or time. It's called inertia. Once a system is moving, it will keep the energy you put into it. A heavier system will require more energy to get it moving to a certain speed, but it will also lose that energy more slowly than a lighter system. Braking is the only thing that matters, because that's where you lose energy out of the system. So whether you're on a climb or in a crit or in a time trial, rolling weight has basically no effect. The overall weight of the system matters, but even then it would have to be significant. So the moral of the story is, do everything you can to reduce drag and friction, and don't worry about the weight of every little thing, because all you'll do is go broke without buying any actual speed.
It was quite easy to miss to be fair but in the intro I said I may do another video on weight upgrades. Video filmed my friend! Just needs to be edited. I do agree, it’s something that should net be neglected as it has a massive impact on how the bike responds and feels
Apologies, I have been in the car for 12 hours today so far 😂 I have read through properly now though. I do agree with what you have said and that’s why this video is mainly focused on those gains. Your comments on inertia are correct but I still stand by what I said in the previous comment. Reducing weight does make the bike more lively. Particularly at the wheel. With regards to inertia and speed. Yes in a TT sense that is right but a lot of fun can be had with accelerating and quick sharp pushes up shorter steeper hills. This is why I can definitely recommend lighter wheels, tyres and inner tubes. (Basically the first upgrades anyway) The weight is further out on the rim, it’s more noticeable and requires more force to accelerate. Which I would argue makes the bike feel better and more fun to ride. And whilst this video isn’t necessarily fun focused, enjoying your ride is the most important thing. From your post though I assume you know this and feel this already.
@@cyclingunboxed Perhaps watch this video featuring someone who has done the science and sells wheels for a living. It would benefit him to find that lighter wheels make a difference, then he could go on and sell his more expensive carbon wheels, but it's just not the case. Let me know what your thoughts are after watching.
That's exactly right. So many cyclists want to buy speed, when the only way to get faster is to train properly and be in a good position on the bike. There's no easy way, you've got to earn it.
Subracting all the savings from my FTP gives me a negative number. Does it mean my bike is now speeding by itself 🤔😂
By far the biggest upgrade you can do is _lose body weight_ but not at the expense of power.
Quick summary - get in drops/TT position and shave legs. Thumbs up for the video.
Yes! Great summary. Big free gains
Good round up. So if I do all of these upgrades do I still have to pedal?
You may still have to pedal 😂
Nice one, I will add carbon wheels in the essentials!
Underrated cheap upgrates for a faster bike :
- choose top tube bags over saddle bags
- one water bottle on the middle pocket of your jersey or a hydratation bag
- hip pack
- helmet with a naca top vent
- duct tape to cover some gaps (cranks, stem, ...)
- some plastic caps to unclosure hexagonal screws
- small aero bars
- wheel cover for the rear wheel
Some mudguards can improve bike aerodynamic.
Generating vortex over rider legs is interessing too.
Really like some of these ideas! Thank you 🤙
Good video! Thanks for sharing it. Where did your t-shirt and the print of the overhead bike view in the background come from? They are cool and look like they might be the same artist.
Hey!
T shirt is Paul smith. They have it in white and black.
The painting I did myself a few years ago
But the silca tire pressure guide has no info for tpu tubes and the latex option would way over pressure them.
I put the TPU under the high performance side. They are only 1-3 w slower than latex / tubless
Silca don't have tpu option for tyre pressure.
It sits under the high performance category as it’s fairly close to latex.
Closer to latex in RR than it is to butyl
@cyclingunboxed I'm currently running 28's with TPU 45 psi rear and 40psi Front but silca is giving me 73psi if I choose latex. bike+rider+gear = 160 lbs.
It’s quite a light system!
For me that sounds more like a gravel tyre kind of pressure (very high for gravel though)
I guess it’s what the calculator suggests will be your fastest psi. Are the roads your ride smooth? If so you can get away with a higher psi.
If it’s too low you run the risk of a pinch flat or a “snake bite” in the tyre
We do know that running under its still faster than running too high like we used to, 100psi+
Josh (owner of silca) does suggest running 10psi lower than that if you want to maintain comfort and speed.
He has also said that they used to get people writing in saying that the psi suggested for them is way too low but has now said it has gone the other way and a lot think his calculations are too high.
If you really want to dive deep, he covers it all in the marginal gains podcast, there are hell of a lot to c watch up on though!
How'd you come up with the 3-10W number for the power meter?
It’s because you can pace yourself correctly for a given effort. If you go out too hard you will slow down later on. So theoretically you will average more power for a given effort. Does that make sense?
Nice vid!
Drive chain.
Do you think silca derailer hanger makes a difference?
For speed. I don’t think so at all. I found a tangible benefit on my bike for the shifting but not enough to say it’s going to make you quicker
Sadly, in a lot of the UK nowadays (especially up north) the roads are so bad when choosing tyres rolling resistance alone is not the only consideration any more. 😐
This is true. The roads have become truly terrible. The extra width helps but only so much
I just need to comment on one specific aspect of some of the "upgrades" you talked about, and that is weight. Let's think of the bike in its entirety as a system from a physics standpoint. The key to making that system move faster down the road is to reduce friction and drag. So what does that? As you discussed, tires and tubes with less rolling resistance. Clothing and positioning on the bike that creates less drag, a lubed chain reduces friction in the system. But rolling weight? It has literally zero effect unless you start talking about significant weight. A set of wheels weighing 1600 grams and a set of wheels weighing 1200 grams, if the aerodynamics is the same, will have no difference regarding speed or time. It's called inertia. Once a system is moving, it will keep the energy you put into it. A heavier system will require more energy to get it moving to a certain speed, but it will also lose that energy more slowly than a lighter system. Braking is the only thing that matters, because that's where you lose energy out of the system. So whether you're on a climb or in a crit or in a time trial, rolling weight has basically no effect. The overall weight of the system matters, but even then it would have to be significant. So the moral of the story is, do everything you can to reduce drag and friction, and don't worry about the weight of every little thing, because all you'll do is go broke without buying any actual speed.
It was quite easy to miss to be fair but in the intro I said I may do another video on weight upgrades.
Video filmed my friend! Just needs to be edited. I do agree, it’s something that should net be neglected as it has a massive impact on how the bike responds and feels
@@cyclingunboxed I feel as though you missed my point completely.
Apologies, I have been in the car for 12 hours today so far 😂 I have read through properly now though.
I do agree with what you have said and that’s why this video is mainly focused on those gains.
Your comments on inertia are correct but I still stand by what I said in the previous comment. Reducing weight does make the bike more lively. Particularly at the wheel. With regards to inertia and speed. Yes in a TT sense that is right but a lot of fun can be had with accelerating and quick sharp pushes up shorter steeper hills.
This is why I can definitely recommend lighter wheels, tyres and inner tubes. (Basically the first upgrades anyway) The weight is further out on the rim, it’s more noticeable and requires more force to accelerate. Which I would argue makes the bike feel better and more fun to ride. And whilst this video isn’t necessarily fun focused, enjoying your ride is the most important thing.
From your post though I assume you know this and feel this already.
@@cyclingunboxed Perhaps watch this video featuring someone who has done the science and sells wheels for a living. It would benefit him to find that lighter wheels make a difference, then he could go on and sell his more expensive carbon wheels, but it's just not the case. Let me know what your thoughts are after watching.
Upgrade your legs. Period.
That's exactly right. So many cyclists want to buy speed, when the only way to get faster is to train properly and be in a good position on the bike. There's no easy way, you've got to earn it.
The cheapest way to make your bike faster is to let someone faster than you ride it.
a lot of cyclists could lose a few pounds of body weight
That one will be on my weight savings video!