BMW 530d F10 F11 - Engine Mounts & Transmission Mount
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- Опубликовано: 17 окт 2024
- My engine mounts hadn’t actually failed on this car, but they didn’t appear to be as firm as they should be. I thought I’d replace them but also see if I could ‘firm-up’ my new mounts just a little...
No ‘after’ shot! We need to see how little the engine moves with the new mounts.
Oops, sorry. I can assure you it drives beautifully though 👍
Nut Job can you make a quick vid showing how much the engine moves now thanks 😊
Agree here , why make a video showing the movement BEFORE and nothing after ? Waste of time ?
Nut job, how do the vibrations feel sitting in the driver's seat before and after the swap?
Any extra noises before or after the swap?
No, I was very pleased with them after the swap. Very smooth running with no vibrations 👍
Thank you for your uploads! After watching this video, I successfully replaced my engine mounts on my X3 F25 30d at 220 000km. The ride quality is so much smoother and quieter. Best regards!
Hi, on my F11, when I drive it very lightly (for example when there is a lot of traffic and I am moving 10-20 km/h in second gear and when I gently add gas and let off the gas I feel an unpleasant jerk.
Could it be the engine/gearbox mounts?
Thx
Great job! You made it look so easy, while I struggled almost 3h to do only the engine mounts on mine and I was using a lift, and an engine crane jack. Keep it up, we have many things to learn from you!
You should include before and after vids, and maybe some impressions while driving it, but maybe now for next time! :)
Also, great job!
Hi from the Philippines,I did a DIY on my engine mount vw polo using polyurethane and it work great, curing though was 48 hours.save a lot of money.
Nice job. Like the mod on the engine mounts. The amount of movement in the old one are what wrote off the gearbox mount. You remind me of myself. Can never get the bastard high enough to get in under it.
You both a shit mechanics that’s why
I have been watching most of your videos over the last few days, I actually own an older E91 three series but it's great content, well explained too. Keep up the good work dude
Cheers 🍻
Great video! thank you mate! I assume its about the same job for 520d f10. Did you have to remove any hoses like intercooler or connectors while raising up the engine?
You are talented, doing a fabulous work not everyone would do with only a few car jacks! I wonder if you already thought about changing the car suspension after all the miles it has already run? Would appreciate to see how you manage this "special" challenge if you had to. Keep on posting, all the best!
I have been very impressed with your videos and thank you for their involved content, one thing extra to remove hard carbon is Mr Mr mussle oven cleaner. The other comment I would make is don't rely on scissor Jack's and some cheaper stands. A good friend of mine did just that and his wife found him under the car after returning from shopping. She has been a widow now for 6 years !!!
Surely the mountings are designed to allow a certain amount of engine/ transmission flex .
Of course but not that much....their real job is to limit vibration but not to allow flex
I have a '14 535d and another video on here showed you having to work from the top side down to get the driver side mount done. I like your method much better if this translates from your 530d to my 535d? Can you share the Torx e-socket and other nut sizes you ended up needing? How long did it end up taking you to replace all three mounts? Really enjoyed this and gives me hope I can get it done. Shop here in town wants $960 to change just the engine mounts. Ugh Oh, and can you share the torque specs for each?
Useful flog cheers for that
Did you use genuine part or after market parts and how many miles had the car done to cause that amount of wear?
Great job. Dunno about the black stuff you put in the front mounts.what was that anyway? Would you not use liquid polyurethane to pour into them if anything. Might check my own transmission crossmember rubbers now after seen yours. 👍
Did you had vibration around 60 mph, like many F10/F11 feels with the feeling they came from under, not from wheels ? ( Vibration might be related to Gearbox failing mount )
Thanks for the clear video really appreciate your time.
Thanks for the video, I believe I need to do this job in my 528i xdrive 2014, question..Doesn’t lifting the engine the way you did Puts Stress in the transmission and certain motor components?
I couldn’t lift the engine high enough to get the mounts out ‘Fair bit of space on these f10 f11’s ‘ this son of a gun got me lifting my engine from the sump and I know for certain I’m going to get sump leaks later also might get transmission problems or some sort of leak. Do not follow this guys video if you want to do a diy I regret finding his video. He is a f’in nut job if I get problems I’m going to find him and get money off him dumb little p*ssy
@@isaacahmed9546 I couldn't lift the motor high enough. Maybe the subframe needs to dropped. Thoughts?
@@srttmad so it didn't work?
Did you try?
Great video. You tore your transmission mount when you lifted the engine up front.
Have you checked your crankshaft damper pulley? Very common for them to fail too.
Actually no, but I’ll check it out when I get chance 👍
George Austers harmonic balancer
Mine went on my 118d and I thought my engine was on fire with all the melted rubber smoke, £370 part from eurocarparts but saved thousands doing it myself
KAOS REAL £370 for a pulley? Seems like you’ve had your pants pulled down
I changed the engine mounts but when I turn off the car I feel the vibrations in the car again .. can you tell me what it is please..
Do you mean that it shudders when you stop the engine running?
@@Nut_Job. i solved the problem..i did the throttle body adaptation ..it's Ok now..thank you for reply ;)
Ey men did ur engine mounts last more w that black sealant ? I’m asking cuz ima change my mounts 😅
MMs, might as well get the non-rubber mounts. BMW mounts tend to be rubber to eliminate vibration entering the cabin...
Did you have to remove both (both mounts) sideways bolt to the engine before jacking the engine up? Thanks in advance great videos keep up the good job mate.
Yes you have to remove the sideways Torx bolt in both mounts first. The one in the video around 2:52
Thanks allot. Will tackle the job very soon as the car shakes allot.
Great job. Shall you remove the bold on the transmission mount first When you jacking up the engine? it might pull the trans mount apart?
I was replacing the transmission mount, so leaving the old one in place while I did the front engine mounts seemed the best way. That way the engine is in the right position to do the trans mount last
you got a good point. back mount could have easily broken from doing this... also how did you know to replace the back tranny mount ? wonder if I should do both now....
I noticed it when I was working underneath the car (repairing the broken timing chain)
Hello,
i have a n47 engine in my f11 with automatic transmission.
There are vibrations when accelerating but only at higher revs.
Could it be the fault of the gearbox cushion or rather the engine, or maybe all at once? :) As you think?
How much mileage does your car have? Regards from Poland
If you have vibrations that only occur with higher RPM through ALL gears then I would look more at the engine rather than transmission. Make sure all of the normal service jobs are up to date first though.
My car has about 265k km now, so I expect some parts to be wearing out (like engine/transmission mounts)...
See if you can read your OBDII codes from the car too, as this may help too 👍
What is the milage on your car? I've done mine at 140k miles when I was doing propshaft flexi's and bearing as part of maintenance, and it was nowhere near your gearbox mount. Keep up good job. F10 is a great car, especially n57 3.0d 😉
Was ist das für ein Mittel ist das normales silikon oder was,da ich die Motorlager getauscht habe und der Motor ist noch immer unruhig,sogar der ganghebel vibriert extrem obwohl alle Lager neu sind die beiden am Motor und das eine hintem am Getriebe
hey great job. why did you not make a test after installation? how the motor moves!
What sort of symptoms did you get with the transmission mount? When idle, my F10 shakes as if someone's rocking the car. Happens at very random times when in D, N, R, P but when I shift to M/S it goes..
I actually couldn’t tell there was anything wrong with the trans mount originally. I only discovered it was broken when I removed the gearbox, so planned to replace it soon after
Anyone wondering if they should do this modification to their e90 4 cylinder diesel, DONT! :D I filled up my mounts and the interior now vibrates like in a tractor when idling. Gotta buy new stock ones :D
how did you get all the technical data for your car with pictures, bolts place, tightening torque spec and where goes where? please let me know, I would like to get them too
Have a look here & you will find everything you need: www.newtis.info/
@@Nut_Job. you are the best mate.. I would like to keep in touch if you don,t mind
Our 2011 F11 530d at 108k miles needs this doing.. thanks for the video. Wonder if vacuum lines and pressure converter solenoid need replacing also. We've owned since 27k miles. So much going wrong now though (diff bushes, headlight control board and dash fan and sluggish throttle) .. might be time to move on :)
Might aswell just run into the ground really.
When you did this are the engine mounts sided left and right ? Many thanks
No, they’re both the same: www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/showparts?id=XB52-EUR-03-2012-F11-BMW-530d&diagId=22_0153
Not able to lift the motor high enough to get the mount out. Also the stock motor mounts have a vacuum hose and my replacement mount doesn't have a inlet to connect to. Can I just block off the vacuum hose. What does it really do? Do I need to drop the subframe?
The vacuum lines on the engine mounts can change the ‘stiffness’ of them mounts according to the engine vibrations. I managed to lift my engine just high enough to do this job, however this is definitely not the correct procedure & you need to be very careful not to damage the aluminium sump. One thing which may prevent you lifting the right hand side high enough is the exhaust down pipe - disconnect it at the flexible joint to allow greater movement.
Hello. Do you make this job on manual? Do you have one? What (nm) torque need to screw?
Hi there, look here: www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/f11-530d-tou/repair-manuals/22-engine-transmission-mounting/BX6PiJMI
@@Nut_Job. merci
Great video, straight to the point 👍😄
And After shots? But what was the problem mine moves same like yours
I knew the rear transmission mount was split from when I had the gearbox removed. I just thought the mounts were allowing a bit more movement than I’d like so I did them all together 👍
Hi. I am struggling to replace the driver's side one because the exhaust is pulling the engine back and I can lift it high enough. Did you disconnect your exhaust to do the driver’s side one.
I also bought the same brand from autodoc but there is like a vacuum plug on the right mount. Is yours the same? There is not vacuum plug on the original one. Is this normal?
Hi Georgi, yes I actually had the exhaust disconnected because of other work I had just done. There is an exhaust clamp at the flexible joint from the downpipe/header you can loosen & pull off.
Yes, both of mine had small barbed vacuum tubes connecting them so I simply pushed the fittings into my new mount. If you don’t have any vacuum tubes then I wouldn’t worry too much.
@@Nut_Job. hi. Thanks for your reply. I did loose the clamp but I can't separate the flexi pipe from the back solid pipe. Is it any tip to separate them easy
It can be stiff to separate them for the first time. Try heating it with a blow torch (but be very careful not to damage anything else) & then try loosening it by tapping with a mallet 🔨
Aha, thought there might be a catch. I don't fancy trying to disconnect the exhaust
so - how it is after? i mean before and after comparison..
we miss ya ...
Now you will PROBABLY transfer more vibrating to the chassie= to you....? I could be wrong
It doesn’t seem to. The added sealant only adds a little bit of support within the mount - it’s not an extreme change
How different is it now you’ve done this job to what it was before? How did you know it needed doing?
I knew the rear trans mount needed doing from when the gearbox was removed. The engine jus seemed like it was on soft/worn mounts because it was ‘lurching’ a bit more than I would have expected so I changed them all together.
It didn’t look very safe on video. But I’m sure you got it under control. Maybe use the bottle jack from the range rover. Useful things.
It was totally safe - I had x2 axle stands supporting the front subframe plus I left the jack under the centre jacking point for safety. Always chock the rear wheels too though 👍
Is it really safe to jack up the engine while the exhaust and driveshaft is still connected, or do thet have enough play to not bend in the process?
It’s totally fine mate. The exhaust has a flexi connector into the DPF and these F11’s (& many BMWs) have a 2-piece propshaft with a UJ in the centre so the engine is fine to move up ~50mm to do the mounts 👍
I should add that you need to be careful jacking any engine up from it’s sump - as most are aluminium now. I chose a strengthened part like a corner where it’s safer to apply a vertical load (using wooden blocks to spread to load too) 👍
Oh okay, thanks for clearing that up👌
Why didn’t you first try to squeeze some of that sealant into the existing engine mounts while they were on the car and see if things would improve?
Probably would have been a 5 minute job;-)
I’m sorry if my question comes across as blunt. It’s not intended as such. I’m a non-native speaker.
The "probably would have been a 5 minute job" is the only part that seems a bit snide, other than that your English was good
Anthony Belton-Ford
Thank you!
Is it the same transmission Mount for the 2012 f10 528i xdrive? I've seen different mounts for the different f10s out there so I'm confused. Great job on the video tho, changed my motor mounts thanks to you! 👍
Was it the same?
@@fahadaljassem there are different ones, depends if your car is awd or not
did the vibration pass after replacement?
It did improve yes 👍
Thank you..for your video this i gone be my weekend job to do it
Now i know why mi engien moves so much on my 520D f10
🍻
Need to do this job soon, recently started feeling hard thumps. Car has 61k miles
Shouldn’t really need to do engine mounts after only 61k...
Are the thumps you’re feeling related to gear changes? Or can you connect the ‘thump’ to something else that happens?
I have bmw 3 n47 engine. My engine mounts vacum type on the car. Can i change with out vacum type please help me
Yes, I think so. I haven’t done it, but I’d imagine you need to plug both vacuum lines & then install whatever mounts you like.
Dude it would of been cool to see the engine revved up and to see the engine movement after the new mounts were fitted.
Yeah, you’re right - sorry. I’ll add it to another video.
Loads of people have commented the same 🙄😬
@@Nut_Job. When can we see it?
Lovely Jubbly. You need a crawler to lie on matey.
Agreed 😁👍
Always a great job nut job 👍🏻 What about an afterwards video 🙄 That passenger side from tyre looks like my bald head lol 😆 Cheers Stevie 😎
What was the symptoms off transmission mounts?
are you serious?
AutoSherlock yes why big man?
What year 5 series was this on? Also was it 4cyl or 6cyl?
It’s a 2012 N57 (3.0 6-cylinder) diesel
If they are worn, can they cause a vibration when select D-Drive and hold the brake pedal???
You can sometimes hear a bit of a ‘clunk’ noise if they are worn when you select D.
@@Nut_Job. i am worried about the vibration when I select D-Drive. I can even hear not only feel the vibration. When release the brake pedal its gone. When i go slowly over bums i can hear grinding rubber noise.
@@ivanpetrov2280 did you fix it?
@@drummerdude100 yes mate, change just the engine mounts and gearbox mount. All gone.
@@ivanpetrov2280 nice one, cheers
Any extra vibration /harshness after the mod?
Not at all - it’s actually really smooth 👍
Sweet. Thanks for sharing your work. I'm in the process of getting my timming chain done soon and I know for a fact my engine mounts had play so I'll defo consider the mod. I'm also upgrading the turbo to stage 3. I have a 530d too :-)
Sounds like a bad idea,
Absorbtion is affected for sure
Most race cars run solid mounts....the only negative is potential vibration transfer or noise
@@gaboonviper85 🙂
From filling some old ones to one that are engineered there is a long way I believe
@@alltheway99 possibly.....yeah they look used but could only be a year old as far as I know.....its the concept that I approve of all other things excluded
What’s cost for mounts ?
Whats the part number?
Howmany miles?
Hi, What kind of silicon are you injecting?
It was a tough type of external door frame sealant. It was quite a sticky and dense mixture 👍
@@Nut_Job. thanks
Hi, can you tell me what is the part number for the transmission mount?
Also, what brands of the mounts did you buy?
Thanks
The central trans mount is OEN 6770289. The best brand is Lemförder but I actually used Vaico when I did mine.
The engine mounts for mine are OEN 22116777371 and the best are either Lenförder or Febi Bilstein in my opinion.
Did you get any steering wheel vibrations due to the old mounts?
Not really. They weren’t all that bad - I was just trying to make small improvements
Why not add sealant to the old mounts?
Younes El Ammari they were probably cracked already
If you’re going to the effort of removing the mounts you may as well replace them at the same time. I think my mounts were only around £65 each
Thanks! Are you still glad you bought the BMW after all the work you've done? Or is it all part of the ownership charm? atb snack.
I’m ok with it really. Stuff like engine mounts, bushes etc. are things every car goes through... the timing chain was a tough one, but it’s done now so I feel ok about these small bits that come up.
Nut Job in the process you’ve demonstrated what’s possible with some very apt skills along with a great deal of patience.....oh and a tough resilience to neck and back pain. Love your updates!
Ps. I think the point that many miss surrounding buying and running a car such as this is that it requires time and efficient commitment to get it right.... but once right it’ll do another 200k!
The drivers side one is a nightmare my trolley jack is at its max and is still can’t get the old one out
Cricky , it’s gonna be a new car soon with all the new components , German engineering eh. Great work at per usual
Every car goes through this. The more torque, hp and driving habits also plays into the frequency of changing.
Is this sealant rubbery or firm when fully set ?
It had more of a rubbery consistency
Oh that’s smart , I’ve always wondered whether a sealant can be used to restore or prolong the life of suspension bushings ? I’m sure it all depends on how durable this material is . What’s this sealant brand in the UK called ?
These were brand new engine mounts though, so this sealant was just to firm up the movement of the main rubber. Poly bushings are much stiffer than rubber so I don’t think it would be so easy...
You made it look super easy which is not!.. especially on the driver side where you've cut the video..
It took me 4 hours to do this job today and it was not easy!
Hi mate ,how did you managed to get the driver side out ? i'm using jack with piece of wood under oil sump but still cannot lift engine enough to get mount out
If you’ve got the other side mount out already you should find that if you offset the wood/jack slightly to the drivers side of the sump that it will lift that side just enough to get it out.
@@Nut_Job. OK,i will try do that moving the jack to the driver side, as at the moment is exactly in centre,n/s is already done easy but the driver side is difficult maybe if i move jack to the right i will be able to take it out
this video looks a LOT simpler than ruclips.net/video/EN7lpujM-RU/видео.html where they remove everything from above! can I still remove from the bottom on N20 engine F10 body (2014 528i) ?
@@xxvgola4416 did you manage it in the end? Any tips?
Is this a B47 engine buddy?
No, it’s an N57
Hi , would anyone have a video on rear drive shaft removal to replace abs sensor please ? Thanks.
Ratchet ring spanner set for Christmas?
Definitely 👍😁
The moment when you rise the engine , is the both top bolts on the mounts are released in same time , or just do it side by side and rise the engine twice.
I try to change them today but unsuccessful. The right side is the problem, i can't unscrewed the top bolt, its very narrow there. My E-socket its not so good, and always slip on side when i press down. Tomorrow after work will try to find E-spanner or another not so worn socket and try again. 😢
Make sure that the exhaust flexible connector is loosened, as this sometimes stops the right side from rising enough to get the mount free. Be very careful not to damage your sump or whatever you are jacking up from 👍
@@Nut_Job. alright i didn't notice that in your video, i will do it. But i can't unscrew the right mount the top E bolt.
@@Nut_Job. Hi mate i resolve my problem with this hard vibration, only with the engine mounts, the right one was really hard for me to change. I bought the transmission mount and i will replace it too. I feel little shaking under the car when is cold, hopefully will disappear when that mount is done.
First class again thanks
You got me wondering if I should buy 530d 😂
Great job sir
very helpful video. Thanks
Great 👍 sir 👌
What is the BMW part number for the F10 engine mount?
BMW OEN: 22116777371
Nut Job Huge thanks!!!
Nice one Sir
Were you having any vibration on full throttle with the old engine mounts? @nutjob
Is your car xdrive?
No just RWD
Why silicone?
It wasn’t just silicone - it was a more viscous sealant (which I think includes a urethane compound). I just wanted to slightly firm-up the mount & the intention was to fill the internal void with this thick compound to reduce movement.
What have you NOT changed on that car?! 🙈
Hhhhhhhh 😂
Thanks for knowlegde
Manual or auto?
Auto 👍
The gearstick on my manual shakes. Normal apparently
"Knackered" doesn't feel like it really cuts the condition of the transmission mount!
You could have just put the black goo into the old engine mount, instead of putting it on the new mount.
Would you advocate buying an ex police car? Or are they more trouble than they are worth?
Hmmm... 🤔
Well I’m not sure I’d advise everyone to go out & buy one... but I suppose it depends if you’re prepared to do a good amount of maintenance yourself. I think my experience is towards the ‘worst’ you might experience... but it’ll depend also on the price you can buy the car for.
In general the traffic cars can be a good buy, but not the little runabout cars that they use.
@@Nut_Job. thanks for your fast reply! Yes I spotted a couple's of cars same as yours on auto trader one of which had a new engine approx 60k miles ago. Around £6k to £7k. I was wondering how often these police vehicles were serviced, did they observe BMW's CBS intervals i.e 18k mile oil changes or are they treated a bit kinder.
That’s actually the best thing about ex-police cars - they are serviced much more regularly than the recommended intervals. I saw the service log from the police force and my car was in for maintenance (on average) every 6/7 weeks! The definitely won’t risk an issue with the vehicle whilst in service.
It seems fairly common that some of the ex traffic cars have had replacement engines (not mine unfortunately though 😂) so I would see that as a good reason to buy it if the price was right. They get an engine swap done direct with BMW so you know it should have been done correctly 👍
Thankyou
Hi. Please post a video after fixed.
After shot not included.......
Your content has been great, but i think the lesson we all learned here from your videos is to never buy an ex-police car :D :D
Perhaps that is what we’ve all learned here 😁👍
Silicone dentro montante???dio...siamo seri！！！
This is a terrible idea and no one should be doing this period. You do know there is a reason for the mounts to have a small bit of play right?? The mounts act as a dampener as well for vibrations.... Damping vibrations is ultra important and You pretty much just removed that.. Vibrations can destroy your engine and transmission components, planetary gears, synchronizers, clutch packs etc... With a ton of gear clashing... Your transmission is pretty much banging into a solid wall repeatedly now.. You just added so much premature wear to your vehicle.. I won’t be surprised if something snaps if your the type that get on your vehicle aggressively.
why so cheap? why not just buy an original part?
Front tyres look fook bud
Blimey.. how much more gone wrong!