Truly appreciate this video. I have a 2016 Ford Explorer with 9 interior speakers & Sony factory amp....VERY underwhelming. I'm replacing all w/OEM amps and speakers and a 12" sub. While researching, I narrowed down 3.5 speakers to two between Skar and Pioneer (best bang for buck shopping). I think the extra RMS and crossovers will be worth the money, especially after seeing this video...plus, pioneer has been doing their thing for a LONG time. I'll rock with Skar for the sub tho...thanks for sharing!
That's good stuff, matching up the head unit brand with the door and dash speakers. I'm running a JVC head unit to JVC dash and doors in my Dodge, and they sound amazing! Added a 700w class D monoblock to a single 12" and the car sounds unbelievable, on stock electric system!
I might have to give pioneer another shot after watching this. I’m running all skar speakers in my car, 4 JL Audio subs. 4 amps. Really just 3 normally. One of the amps is reserved for my loudspeaker set up. 5.25 component front door, 4” rear door. But my first experience with pioneer speakers, I had an older set of TS-G1044R. I know they’re only 4” coaxials, but they SUCKED in my opinion. Just really pitchy no matter how much I EQ’d. I also had a set of 6x9’s. A little better but still the same issue. I love pioneers amps, and head units. That’s what I’m currently using. But i haven’t given the speakers a chance again. I think they just released a new line of speakers too. So MAYBE I’ll give them another shot lol. Love the video man
did you set the gains on the amp property ..althought i aint never seen no aftermarket speakers look like factory but if you running a 50x4 amp blowing skar 3.5s maybe your amp or "headunits signals"clipping . in the end u mentioned needing the resistor/crossover without blowing it sounds like your amp or headunits crossovers setting is wack also ..idk just a suggestion keep bassing on G🤘🏽
Yeah, those are the factory Dodge joints, I saw the Chrysler logo on the magnet. I think he said he returned the Skars for refund, and shit, I would too if it blows from head unit power.
i find it hard to believe the head unit pushed enough power to blow skars unless it was just a defective set. cause max rms from a head unit is typically 45w. and factory subs are 90w@@russelldaniels1797
Truly appreciate this video. I have a 2016 Ford Explorer with 9 interior speakers & Sony factory amp....VERY underwhelming. I'm replacing all w/OEM amps and speakers and a 12" sub. While researching, I narrowed down 3.5 speakers to two between Skar and Pioneer (best bang for buck shopping). I think the extra RMS and crossovers will be worth the money, especially after seeing this video...plus, pioneer has been doing their thing for a LONG time. I'll rock with Skar for the sub tho...thanks for sharing!
That's good stuff, matching up the head unit brand with the door and dash speakers. I'm running a JVC head unit to JVC dash and doors in my Dodge, and they sound amazing! Added a 700w class D monoblock to a single 12" and the car sounds unbelievable, on stock electric system!
Good day, brother. I'm glad to see you're still putting in that work. Respect.
I might have to give pioneer another shot after watching this. I’m running all skar speakers in my car, 4 JL Audio subs. 4 amps. Really just 3 normally. One of the amps is reserved for my loudspeaker set up. 5.25 component front door, 4” rear door.
But my first experience with pioneer speakers, I had an older set of TS-G1044R. I know they’re only 4” coaxials, but they SUCKED in my opinion. Just really pitchy no matter how much I EQ’d. I also had a set of 6x9’s. A little better but still the same issue.
I love pioneers amps, and head units. That’s what I’m currently using. But i haven’t given the speakers a chance again.
I think they just released a new line of speakers too. So MAYBE I’ll give them another shot lol.
Love the video man
did you set the gains on the amp property ..althought i aint never seen no aftermarket speakers look like factory but if you running a 50x4 amp blowing skar 3.5s maybe your amp or "headunits signals"clipping . in the end u mentioned needing the resistor/crossover without blowing it sounds like your amp or headunits crossovers setting is wack also ..idk just a suggestion keep bassing on G🤘🏽
You replace an 8 ohm speaker with a 4 ohm. why ? Is that what killed the skar speaker ?
Rms is way more realistic Never pay attention to max watts
Man what deck u have
those literally look like factory not skar. skars dont come with mesh filters or even have those screw patterns.
Yeah, those are the factory Dodge joints, I saw the Chrysler logo on the magnet. I think he said he returned the Skars for refund, and shit, I would too if it blows from head unit power.
i find it hard to believe the head unit pushed enough power to blow skars unless it was just a defective set. cause max rms from a head unit is typically 45w. and factory subs are 90w@@russelldaniels1797
plus rms on those 3.5 skars is 65 so its within spec
i think the main diff between them is how bright the tweeters come through. @@russelldaniels1797
@@revog7 distortion blows speakers. Headunit power can absolutely do this if the volume is turned up past the point of clipping
My tx35 blew after 2mins of song play