A really helpful and well explained tutorial, helped me a lot! The single most difficult part of the job was unscrewing the rusty torsion nuts on my friend's van. I had to weld up a special long socket and use very long breaker bar to get them off!
The way I did it is: I pushed the suspension up with a transmission stand/jack if on the ground and put an old transmision endshaft(whatever you find that will work) between the upper suspension arm and the cradle since there is a thick enough piece of metal next to the suspesion arm to handle the pressure of the torsion bar for it to rest against it. Then let off so it jammed in place. Then I took it apart and when I was pulling the cv joint off I just used the old bolt and drove it in untill it botomed out. Two light hits with a hammer got it off becasue the bolt got it past the hard part which is the circlip. After replacing everything I put it back together jacked up the bottom arm so I can remove my tool that held it up and it was set. Put some grease on the thread and under the bolt so you can torque it right without trouble if you don't have a very long wrench/extension pipe. 150Nm and 90deg ain't easy if all you don't have a long pipe. The video itself is good I just put my experience after I done the job a couple of days ago. Those clamps are shit if you don't have the specific pliers for them because it's hard to make them tight without it but most people will buy sets with the usuall VAG clamps that you put on and squeeze together.-
Perfect 💚🇬🇧🌱 thanks for sharing, this video just saved my mate being charged a fortune at a garage as I took on the job & with your help it's been a breeze...
If you jack the wheel hub out of the way or rest it on a large wooden block (8x4 if you have one), you won't risk damaging the new boot or getting dirt in the new joint, and you can see the job easier and you don't need to continually wrestle it out of the way.
Very helpful / just changed mine / you can use the bolt without the welded bit on it to push the hub off! Those **** straps that go around the boot - I had a different type again - right pain fitting it
Great video and I love a homemade tool, I know new cv boots can be a struggle to fit onto the joint. so I tend to fold them back on themselves like a turned down wellington then unfold them over the edge of the joint.👍🔧🔧
@@lefty940 no problem, as you know as a mechanic every day is a school day and as I always told youngsters entering the trade … when you stop learning your dead.
Remove caliper and carrier an disk . And remove bottom ball joint and anti roll bar linkage then a hard push down and drive shafts should be easier to get at 😊 Don't mess about with torsion bar .Jack up arm afore you start jam a six inch socket extension in you will know where 😊 saves alot time 👍😁🏴✌️
Love the home made tool 👏, are your brakes an upgrade as I've 2x t4 and brakes are different to yours , ie i don't have the oils going through the pads 🤔
Haha thanks Luggy I hate cars lol. It’s actually a practice video I’m going to be starting a boat fishing channel in the new year. I’ll have a go anyway
@@lefty940 AH awesome, and pop a video of the boat running when yah can so i can have wee butchers :P Yap boat fishing channel sound good to me, i will watch for sure, just make sure you smile more hahahah ..Ok Night buddy sleep well - Luggy
![Traggelenke wechseln - VW Transporter T4 [TUTORIAL]](/img/1.gif)
A really helpful and well explained tutorial, helped me a lot!
The single most difficult part of the job was unscrewing the rusty torsion nuts on my friend's van. I had to weld up a special long socket and use very long breaker bar to get them off!
Thank you for the feedback im glad it helped you out. They can be a pain the left one on mine is siezed not got around to doing that yet lol
The way I did it is: I pushed the suspension up with a transmission stand/jack if on the ground and put an old transmision endshaft(whatever you find that will work) between the upper suspension arm and the cradle since there is a thick enough piece of metal next to the suspesion arm to handle the pressure of the torsion bar for it to rest against it. Then let off so it jammed in place. Then I took it apart and when I was pulling the cv joint off I just used the old bolt and drove it in untill it botomed out. Two light hits with a hammer got it off becasue the bolt got it past the hard part which is the circlip.
After replacing everything I put it back together jacked up the bottom arm so I can remove my tool that held it up and it was set.
Put some grease on the thread and under the bolt so you can torque it right without trouble if you don't have a very long wrench/extension pipe. 150Nm and 90deg ain't easy if all you don't have a long pipe.
The video itself is good I just put my experience after I done the job a couple of days ago.
Those clamps are shit if you don't have the specific pliers for them because it's hard to make them tight without it but most people will buy sets with the usuall VAG clamps that you put on and squeeze together.-
Thanks mate some good tips there and thanks for watching
Perfect 💚🇬🇧🌱 thanks for sharing, this video just saved my mate being charged a fortune at a garage as I took on the job & with your help it's been a breeze...
Brilliant thanks for that glad it helped you out
If you jack the wheel hub out of the way or rest it on a large wooden block (8x4 if you have one), you won't risk damaging the new boot or getting dirt in the new joint, and you can see the job easier and you don't need to continually wrestle it out of the way.
Good thinking👍
Very helpful / just changed mine / you can use the bolt without the welded bit on it to push the hub off! Those **** straps that go around the boot - I had a different type again - right pain fitting it
Cheers didn’t realise the bolt was long enough glad it helped you. Yes those straps can be a pain
Great video and I love a homemade tool, I know new cv boots can be a struggle to fit onto the joint. so I tend to fold them back on themselves like a turned down wellington then unfold them over the edge of the joint.👍🔧🔧
Thanks for that i appreciate the feedback. Thats a great tip cheers
@@lefty940 no problem, as you know as a mechanic every day is a school day and as I always told youngsters entering the trade … when you stop learning your dead.
well presented, real useful video, and i like the tool tip ..
Thanks mate appreciate it
Remove caliper and carrier an disk . And remove bottom ball joint and anti roll bar linkage then a hard push down and drive shafts should be easier to get at 😊
Don't mess about with torsion bar .Jack up arm afore you start jam a six inch socket extension in you will know where 😊 saves alot time
👍😁🏴✌️
Great video which will help loads
Thanks very much Dave really appreciate that😊
Great video , thanks.
Thank you hope it helps
Pretty smart removal tool. thank you.
Thanks glad you liked it
Thanks Lefty! Saved me time and unnecessary wrestling
Thanks mate glad it helped 👍
Love the home made tool 👏, are your brakes an upgrade as I've 2x t4 and brakes are different to yours , ie i don't have the oils going through the pads 🤔
Hi I’m pretty sure the AA vans had up rated brakes on them. I know I always had trouble getting the right pads for it
@@lefty940 didn't know that lol but explains why mine are different, cheers 👍
Cable ties are a must have, haha
haha what would we do without them
great job
Thank you Richard appreciate it
wELL DONE Lee- GENIUS TOOL YAH MADE TO SPLIT THAT cv OUT NICE .. kEEP THEM VIDS AH COMING AND SMILE YAH MISSERABLE GIT HAHAAHH
Haha thanks Luggy I hate cars lol. It’s actually a practice video I’m going to be starting a boat fishing channel in the new year. I’ll have a go anyway
@@lefty940 AH awesome, and pop a video of the boat running when yah can so i can have wee butchers :P Yap boat fishing channel sound good to me, i will watch for sure, just make sure you smile more hahahah ..Ok Night buddy sleep well - Luggy
@@Lordlugworm Thanks mate I’ll do my best to smile 😊😊 night mate