How To Set Ignition Timing with a Timing Light / Ignition Timing Explained | Tech Tip 04
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- Опубликовано: 1 сен 2014
- How to Check & Adjust your Ignition Timing on a Distributor/Points system to ensure a perfectly timed 'bang' amongst your 'suck' 'squeeze' & 'blow'. Sounds complex, but fear not, because in practice it's really simple once your wrap your head around it. Grab your timing light, and a spanner, & get stuck in.
The Engine in this video is a Modified 2.0 Pinto (SOHC) Engine out of my 1978 Ford Capri. For more Information, Tech, & Maintenance Tips on this classic 4 - banger, check out this playlist: • Ford Pinto (SOHC) Engi...
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Check out my latest video on how to tune the mechanical advance curve in a distributor:
ruclips.net/video/gkMLNRARGUE/видео.html
Clear and to the point, first timing video I've seen yet that I could actually see the timing marks when the light flashes.
Thanks, tried hard to make it accessible for first timers. One of the vids I'm most happy with.
Best video on RUclips explaining this, i thought it was super super complicated before but damn... didn't realise it was as simple as that
I have to say. I was here on youtube and the video of how to tune weber carbs appeared. I was interested and went to apply what I learned in my Datsun 1200 which has two double 40 dcoe webers. Then I saw this video, and I applied it to my Bmw 1502. Both were perfect after being tuned. So, thank you very much for the excellent videos. This is actually the first channel I see that really teaches things the way they should be done. No cuts in the videos or anything. And I congratulate you. You deserve more subscribers for the excellent content you make. A big thank you and continues with the excellent work.
Thanks Martim. It's this kind of feedback that inspires me to keep making these videos.
I started this channel years ago because I was fed up with so called 'how to' videos that didn't really explain anything, or worst of all - would put the camera down and cut out the bit that I was most interested in watching. It drove me mad!! So this is something I promised myself I would not do in these videos. Thanks for noticing!
Have a good one.
James.
This is by far the best practical video on how to set the timing using a timing light I've come across. Thank you very very much.....
Thankyou for your kind words!
I know this was explained on a Capri, but this is a really useful video -- good context to the procedure and why it's done, plus clear instructions.
This is the most helpful video regarding this topic on RUclips. Now I can go check/adjust timing on my 2002. Thanks a lot of making this video!
Always good to hear. Thankyou.
The best video on timing I have seen so far, well done.
Watched many videos about timing but how you explained is awesome and perfect. This is what we are expecting.
Thankyou. Appreciate the feedback 👍🏻
Thanks mate this helped me out massively! I have the same setup on my capri but had been reading the timing marks backwards for the last 4 years!
+Gringo Tom Easily done! Thanks for watching
Thanks a lot ! Clear and straightforward video.
Clear, concise and instructive! Thank you for this content.
Thanks John!
You are awesome. Thanks for all the helpful videos!
+Florian Larsson (FlowRyan) ha. Thanks!
Thanks for this vid just what I was looking for, spot on.
+Ant Gil no probs Ant. Thanks!
great video u explained it so simple thank u
Thank you very helpful and nice car too
Thank you. Your video helped me a lot👍🏻
No prob. Thanks for the feedback 👍
Cheers fella great video . And I must say a beautiful car fella wish I still had my Capri .
If I had a pound for every time somebody said that to me, I'd be a rich man. Cheers Adam.
Legend thanks for that man!
no prob
great vid
Thanks!, this helps alot!
Great to hear. Thanks!
Great explanation thanks for that u are the man. Attitude and energi was top of that my appreciations from Denmark
Kind words. Thankyou!
Nice. Good video. Best vudeo have found to date.
I have just done a rebuild on my mk5 sport cortina. I upgraded the cam to a mild/street stage 1. I am how ever having some issues with in getting the timing correct. I did try with light to no luck. I have got it running best by revving it around 2k rpm and finding the sweet spot. Still isnt 100 % tho.
P.s love your intake side dude wow. Im still only running the 32/36
Hey man. How come the light didn't work? Cheers, the 45s do look the part! Ran a 32/36 for a long time though, brilliant carb.
Nicely done bud👍🏻
Cheers
It must have been 30 odd years since I did this... I've only gone and tried to set my timing to TDC with my Tipex and strobe no wonder it wont set up right Durr..
Cheers mate all the best and loving the Carbs
Thanks Mark. Easily done! Been there myself.
thankyou verrymuch..friend..👍
Welcome.
Excellent
Thanks
Excellent car with ample space.
Very good 👍🏻
Thankyou
informative and, more to the point, well presented. You should have a job on tv mate.
Ha ha thanks. Not sure about that! Glad you enjoyed the vid.
Always enjoy this vids on the Pinto James and remind myself of something every time i watch!, have you done one on Cam timing?
Hey Martin. Thanks, all quite old now but glad to hear people keep watching them. Not done one on cam timing no, sorry.
Thanks
👍
Hi ! My stock 2009 1.25 Fiesta's timing advance jumps from 4-15° at Idle, is that normal ?
Hi, my the idle is steady, bu my ignition timing keeps jumping, what would cause that? I have electronic ignition and no vacuum advance.
Yours is perfect it stays steady on the pointer.
Thanks
I love your videos and I love your vehicle sir can you tell me more about that intake manifold and your carburetor set up I have a 2.3 L 1978 Ford Courier I was thinking about putting something like that online
Thankyou! Certainly can, the carbs are a pair of Weber 45 DCOEs on Hi Flow intake manifold - I believe it's the long runner version, you can get a shorter manifold if space is tight. It's a great setup, although geared towards performance more than economy. Hope that helps. 1978, same year as my Capri!
Great video! will try this on my Escort as its pinging(pinking?) a lot! Also, what interior do you have in your Capri? love it!! Looking for a Capri myself
Thanks bud! Yea pinging/pinking (you choose) would suggest you're too advanced. Just knock it back a bit. Interior is standard base model stuff. I love it too. Don't see many like it about!
Really helpful video!! Straight to the point and clear instruction. But Do you keep the vacuum on the distributor always blocked off?
Glad you enjoyed it. Mine is always blocked off due to the intake/carb setup.
@@FastRust okay. i have a 2l pinto aswell with dual idf carbs. thank you :)
I'm going have to do mine myself, 1.6 just back from having its MOT and they've fiddled with it, pinking like crazy, I'm going to buy a strobe light and have a go
Depends what they've mucked with but pinking generally means too advanced so you'll probably have to knock back the timing.
Hi mate, what steels are you running there? Width wise? Love the look of it. Many thanks!
Cheers. 7.5" all round. They are the original 5J steel wheels with a 2.5" band.
hi great video I have got an early version of an fuel injection system by bosch, le2 jetronic but its is early enough to still have manual ignition adjustment(not sensor controlled - manual advance and return just like your car here) I am having trouble starting and idle after engine rebuild I think the timing is a major factor as moving the distributor seems to change how it starts considerably. How do you set the timing position to start with? on this peugeot the timing mark is on the flywheel which makes life a lot harder as its hard to see the marks also but can just about.
Unusual for the ignition timing marks to be on the flywheel, are you sure there's no marks on the crank pulley at the front of the engine?
Hi Great informative video. Which will help me check the timing on my Ford Capri 3.0 Automatic 1978. I have 1 question thou in other info I have read it says to rev engine to 3000rpm when adjusting distributor to get the best performance from the engine, but you don't mention this in the video, was wondering why ? please advise. Keep up the good works. Regards Nick
Thanks. Right so that is a technique you can use to set the timing at total advance. As the rpm goes up the mechanism in the distributor advances the timing by a set amount (around 28 degrees on pintos iirc). To do this you need an adjustable timing light. So say you wanted 36 degrees of total advance, you'd set the timing light to 36 degrees, hold the engine at 3500 rpm and adjust the timing to the light flashed at exactly TDC. Does that make sense? Cheers.
Hi ;
thanks for videos , i have ford taunus gts 2.0 (pinto 2.0 ) i wanna learn that what time i shoud do tdc (0-12) ? if i understand right you said you use 10 TDC ..
should i do (10) OR (0) thank you so muchh
If it's standard go with 8 btdc 👍
Awesome video, didn't have a clue before, but you made it proper simple! I have a 2.0 pinto in an Eagle RV Jeep kit car, and have no idea what the ignition timing should be set to, have you any ideas? What difference does it make? Cheers!
+The Baron Von Ozwald Thanks! Really depends on the tune of the engine, whether it's been modified or not. But 6 -8 degrees BTDC will have you in the right ball park. Unless it was wildly out before you won't 'notice' much of difference, smoother running and improved MPG maybe.
+Fast Rust Excellent, thanks! Also, could timing have anything to do with the engine overheating slightly?
+The Baron Von Ozwald Kinda doubt it. It could be a contributing factor, but I'd guess the main issue lies elsewhere.
@FastRust your motor sounds a lot like mine! The header tubes even look similar... my lima came with the intake (and carbs) setup you're running (plus a 4bbl, but no carb) but is currently on the progressive 2bbl from stock.
Supposedly it's been gone through and has higher compression! I'll Google it, but what's your take on timing for an NA with increased compression?
Hi , when you install a pair of weber dcoe its necesary to cancel the vaccum advance of the distribuitor?
In my experience yes. The issue is getting a decent vacuum signal, as you can only pull it from one cylinder with this set up.
Well explained, excellent video.
When setting ignition timing we must disconnect the hose from the vacuum distributor but what about the leak we created on the manifold/carb ? Doesn't it distort the ignition timing we are setting ? Looks like nobody talks about this.
Thankyou! If you disconnect the vacuum advance hose you need to blank it at the manifold end, as you say, to stop a vacuum leak.
@@FastRust Alright. Thanks for your reply.
A hose pinch would achieve the same thing?
Hi mate, I'm just looking into the timing of my Capri to get it running right and see if its the carb letting me down or timing wrong. At the moment I rotated the bottom pulley to TDC. I can see timing marker on the top pulley is lined up with the timing hole/marker at TDC on the engine casing. My 2.0 Pinto has been upgraded with what I think is a Sierra dizzy and ignition module to i'm guessing these markers out the window? The rotor arm is point at the back HT lead away from the engine, this is heading to number 1. This car hates starting and the plugs turn black after a while so, starting at the beginning... and i'm not really sure what i'm doing haha. its an original engine but has a Granada carb, electronic ignition and a upgraded alloy rad so... been a bit messed with.
Hello. You can still check your ignition timing as per this video - if you haven't already. What is it set to at idle?
Hi where is the number one plug lead in the dizzy cap
Hi, can u help me. which distributor installed in this? (model, what car have this? what model engine) I was looked, you showed muffled choke vacuum regulator, why does this? firing angles only controls a centrifugal regulator ? how you think, correct angles fire in 3000 or 5000 RPM? sorry for my bad english, i cant understand by ear. thanks.
Hey. Check the description for answers to a couple of your Q's. The distributor is a Bosch unit, on these engines it will either be a Bosch (red cap), or Motocraft (black). No vacuum advance because of the carbs, taking a vacuum signal from one inlet runner is not sufficient. I've modified the centrifugal advance to suit the camshaft I am running. Hope that helps.
Hello
From the video I can not figure out in advance how many degrees you have set .
i have a 1987 ford transit displacement 1993 cm3 78hp block 205 .
my advance and the same as that set her in the video ?
Thank you
+Vincenzo Basile Hey, I set mine to 10 degrees BTDC, based on the mods at the time. I'd say for the transit 6 - 8 degrees BTDC would be in the right ballpark. Some of the later crank pulleys are marked differently, so take that into consideration.
I use to setup mine from gearbox side.to the flywheel side.
Two things do u block off the vacuum advanced before or after you start the car, and where on the pulley does it match up with the little degree thing that looks like Bart simpsons hair
Blank it off before starting the car. Depends on which engine you've got because the pulleys do differ. Bart should line up with the mark corresponding to the timing that you want (8, 10, 12 degrees BTDC for example)
Nice how would you do a movie with setting the ignition if you have replaced the camshaft from a serial to some sporty
284 degrees for example
Well, to set the ignition time at idle, regardless of camshaft spec, is the same process as in the video. The problem you run into with more extreme cam profiles is the advance curve. This is controlled by weights and springs within the distributor. Adjusting these takes a lot of trial and error (I know!), and is a little more complicated. For a camshaft with 284 degrees of duration, if you set it around 14 degrees at idle, you should be in the right ballpark.
Is it true that on the sporty camshaft the idle revs will not be equal to the serial?
Hey Fast Rust, would you check my latest Capri mk3 timing video out and give me your thoughts on my problem? I thought I had a bad brake servo as when its at low revs it tries to cut out but I now think it could be a timing issue. I was watching your video again today while I checked it with a Timing light. Now as well as using the brakes the indicators (for some reason a previous owner had put dim 5w bulbs in the front which I've replaced with 20w) now make it judger and try to cut out, sometimes the clutch too. It doesnt always do this but Its the first time i've driven it since adding the new indicator bulbs/to make this timing vid and it was acting up like mad. I rebuilt the carb the other month thinking it was that and it seemed to be ok at first but now its bad again. I'd take it to a garage but i'm not sure where to start. Its got a Ford electronic dizzy on it with an ignition module from a later car I assume. Loving the videos by the way!
It sounds like an ignition issue for sure, have you tried new plugs / leads? Check they haven't come loose, and that you're getting a good contact.
How do you determine the corrrect angle that the timing light should be pointed at the pulley?
Just point it at the timing marks
I have the same engine in my Granada mk1. so I have adjusted timing to the manufacturer setting 8degrees. but when I attach the vacuum tube, I get horrible crackling sound when I accelerate. I believe its ignition ping or knocking, but not sure
When you're driving?
Fast Rust yes, when accelerating. so for now, I don't have the vacuum tube attached to the distributor. I've plugged it with a screw.
Could be pinking. Is it most notable when wide open throttle high gear, low revs? If yes then knock the advance back a bit and try it again. It does sound over advanced.
do you have a electric cooling fan put on? ,I have the same engine in a taunus and thinking of swapping the mechanic fan whit a electric one,but the thing is should it be before the radiator or after radiator type
Hey. Yea there's an electric fan in front of the radiator. Bought from
the local scrap yard, I think it came out of a Citroen, wired it so it
'pushes' air rather than 'pulls' it. Simple switch on the dash and away
you go. It's not super efficient but does the job. Also, fitted a
classic mini 74 degree thermostat, engine runs slightly cooler on the
street, but on a track day it's spot on. Hardly need the fan.
a have a problem in winter the engine dos not get normal temp is to cold even after a 30 min.and another thing ,do you use lead supplement additive in the fuel and if you do what are the difference in engine running is it smoother or?
Yea, I'd replace the thermostat. May be stuck open, or there may not be
one in at all. As for lead additive, yes, I do, but many don't. You
won't notice any difference to the running with or without, the argument
is that the lead protects the valve seats.
that must be the thermostat is stuck is open all the time, they have a
wax in it that is soft on a high temp and opens the flow or is hardens
on cold and closes the flow
HELP - My 72 2.0 4 speed keeps stalling unless I keep my foot in it?? as soon as I let off gas it dies
what is is the firing order on the distributor cap clockwise looking from the number 1 on the mark ?
1 3 4 2
tnx man ,watching pete c
on the Ford Cortina Mk3 Restoration - Ruby EP35 45:29 says 1 4 3 2 he is fucking bitch
Hello
Can you recommend internet shop for ford taunus 1975
Try Burton Power
Hi mate I'm new to classic car projects and just purchased a mk3 cortina 1974 2.0 pinto engine. Engine sounds mints and starts first time but want your expert advice to make it into a street machine, can you help would you like the challenge? How can I contact you directly? Awaiting your reply Grip
Hi Grip. Good choice of car! I can't confess to being an expert, but could maybe give you a few pointers, sure. Contact at teamfastrust@gmail.com
Hi Fast Rust, I've been trying to dial in my timing on my 2.0 4 speed 72 Pinto. If I try and get the timing set right it don't run right it seems, I've been doing it by ear, I've taking off the belt and messed with belt setting a tooth back and forth on the cam pulley, but it always seem a little off to the left and right if I'm making since, LOL.. My belt has almost 6000 miles on it, I also have that vac device that's on the side of the eng bay that the Vac lines hook between from Carb and Dist.
Hey mate. It's tough to say without knowing exactly what the symptoms are. I wouldn't worry about the belt if it only has 6000 miles on it though. & you'll never get the belt timed to the exact degree without a vernier sprocket - just set it as close to the timing marks as you can get it. Is cam standard??
@@FastRust Yes, stock cam as far as I know, Thanks Fast Rust
@@FastRust are those adjustable top timing gears for getting the timing to line up spot on, to take up belt slack?
They're to dial in the cam to a specific degree. Useful with performance cams and tuned engines. If yours is standard I wouldn't say you'll see much benefit. Cam belt slack is taken up by the belt tensioner below. If your timing marks are lined up, I'd leave the belt as is and search for the problem elsewhere. An adjustable pulley is not going to solve the issue I'm pretty certain of that 👍
Hey Fast Rust, Does a Capri have a front sump oil pan? Or rear sump? I might pick up this rebuilt 2.0 the guy listed as a pinto motor. it has a rear sump pan, a pinto is a front sump, It also has an intake, but no carb on it. The bolt area where the carb goes just has to bolt holes where the carb goes. I'm thinking the motor came out of a forklift or something.
Rear sump on a Capri, I think there werr some front sump applications. Cortina maybe? Not sure. You could be looking at a Transit motor. Low comp, single barrel carb.
@@FastRust Is that motor worth getting to drop in a pinto? Thanks for any info Bud :)
@@FastRust It does have same look as the standard 2.0 Valve Cover.
Valve covers will be the same, it's the internals that are different if it's a low comp motor - shorted pistons by about 1mm. Tough to tell without further investigation. Not ideal for a performance motor unless you were planning to rebore it and stick some new pistons in it. May as well start with a high comp engine.
@@FastRust If the valve cover has 2.0 look to it, it's a 2.0 right? The guy got it listed as a 1.6 kent motor, he said some guy gave him a few engs, he's not sure what it is i think? I'm thinkin 2.0 because of the valve cover look. I think it's 1300 now after looking at this web site. The Block #s are 70HM6015AA
On my 72 2.0 My timing belt is on right I think " Compared it with my 73 - but my timing light shows it's off by like an inch on the 72, Car won't run if I put at 6 before TDC. Could the Distributor be why it's not lining up right with the light strobe. The 73 strobes the light spot on 6 before TDC
Update
Yesterday I moved the timing belt different ways and nothing works. Everything line up on marks. I brought the piston to TDC with the #1 plug out. it's dead on. Feeling helpless... It seems to run ok with the timing tab 6 Degrees mark set at like 1 1/2 inch before the timing mark it suppose to be on. I'm stumped.
Maybe i just need to turn up my idle once i'm at 6 d before tdc, barley runs at all that way - i'll check and report back.
Man this car gives you some grief. Really difficult to say without actually looking at it. When you connect the timing light up to cyl 1. Set 6 BTDC & point it at the cam pulley. It should flash pretty much bang on the timing marks.
@@FastRust Never thought of that, I'll try it. also car stalls while coming up hard to stop for a red light. I also notice Black tap from sealing PVC valve to get a good seal was getting caught sucking on the tape. But when I fix that, it seems about the same. Hey Fast, When you have one of those glass gas filters SHOULD it always be full of gas in that filter??, Sometime it only has like a 1/4 full in that glass filter when its running.
Sorry late reply mate, don't worry about the fuel filter, perfectly normal that.
@@FastRust I got the timing marks on now, I took off the timing belt, Top Pully to clean and check, and valve cover and notice the followers were a bit tight, so I adjusted them to 0.008 and 0.010 like it says in the books and put belt back, to me it looks like the belt is in the same spot it was, but marks line up to TDC with all 3 spots now. pulling teeth here lol. it seems to run good now, but hesitates slightly here and there while I'm nailing it up to 3500 rpm to shift, I'm thinkin points are old, I'm gonna buy the Pertronix upgrade set up. it stopped stalling at the stops also. gettin better :) On my Vac gauge when setting Carb with Vac hooked into side of intake port i'm only pulling just barely over 15. power seems way better than it was before.
Hi Rust, Me again, lol... What kind of ignition set up you use. Stock ? or...
Hello again! Yes it's stock. Stock Bosch distributor, stock coil, points. Distributor advance has been modified but that's all.
@@FastRust Hey Rust, I took that Pertronix out and put points back in, Car runs awesome again, Now I'm trying to get them to just refund me for it, Hassle, lol. I'm making a youtube on the whole ordeal. ?? Is your Bosch a bone stock coil that your car calls for? I ran my pinto around the block a few times with the 40,000 volt Flamethrower coil part# 40511 that came with the pertronix as a kit USING THE POINTS and it seems peppy, But I'm hearing on some google sites that it's not good to run a hot coil like that. because it will burn your points faster. I'm putting the Stock Pinto coil I have from the 70s back in because of what I'm reading about the hot coil no no.
I can't see using that coil being an issue, but don't hold me to it! See how you go. Yep I'm on all the stock stuff. Stock coil, distributor & points. Been flawless. -1 for electronic ignition kits 😂
Post a link to video when you get it uploaded
Hey my Nissan na20 is set to zero is that going to of ruined my engine?
Nah. Set it correctly and you'll be good to go.
@@FastRust thank you. hopefully it solves the running on after key is turned off issue also
@@FastRust great worked a treat thank you . its only got 90 000k on the clock 1996 hard body datson
I WONDER IF MUCH CHANGES IF A PERSON FITS AN ELECTRONIC DIZZY. LIKE VACUME ADVANCE ON ACCELERATION AND SO ON???
Nope the internal advance system is exactly the same so this will work with an electronic unit. The only difference is how you get to the weights and springs. It's a bit more fiddly.
Guys, I'm looking for a genuine website where I can order original VW parts from Germany for my MK1 VW. I'm from South Africa... Thanks
Как правильно турбировать ОНС?
timming seting
Indeed
absolutely astounding that the camera picked up the flashes just right