Two comments. First, when changing the belt, always check all the groves in the various pulleys. If you don’t, a few broken off cogs may stay in the groves. The belt will slip on the pulleys when you try to start. Second, if you have the 2.0 engine, you shouldn’t have to worry about valve interference with the pistons. Before they had adjustable cam pulleys (2.0L engine), one of the hacks to adjust your cam timing was to file a small amount off one side of the “keyway” (.02” for every one degree up to .10”; if my memory is correct from 45 years ago). You reassemble the pulley to the cam but leave it slightly loose. You’d then crank the engine a few turns which caused the cam to slide towards the filed side of the keyway. Then tighten the bolt holding the pulley to the camshaft.
I had a Ford Cortina 1600OHC back in the 1980's and one day my wife called me at work to say that a red light had come on and the engine had stopped..."Jeez, the motor's blown up" I thought - but when I got home, it was a snapped timing belt. Got a replacement, radiator out, cover off, fixed it on the driveway, no special tools, easiest job ever!
Evening Steve. Great video as always 👍🏻 So simply doing a cam belt out of the car lol 😂 That pinto engine looks absolutely fantastic and a credit too you 😃 Thanks for taking the time to do the videos. Cheers Stevie 😎🇬🇧
Thanks for the vid Steve, comprehensive as always. I'm pulling apart the 2.1 Pinto in my Westfield 7 for the first time, and this was very useful. Cheers from Canada!
G'day Steve, as always an informative and professionally presented video. Good move also replacing the tensioner, interestingly a lot of cambelt failures can be attributed to a failed tensioner whereby the pulley literally falls off the spindle due to bearing failure then follows the catastrophic damage to the engine once the belt dismounts from the pulleys.
Cant wait to see the electronic ignition episode. Currently I am doing a similar rebuild and slight performance enhancement on alfa nord engine. Loving your work👍
Sounds great! I am keeping the coil, but use a full electronic vacuum less distributor. Soon to come out. I wanted first a programmable full electronic system but that is not as reliable as some told me/// Maybe I try . What are you looking at ?
D3Sshooter I am interested into implementing a programabe ignition only ECU something like NoDiz pro2 with throttle position sensor☺️ but I am still contemplating other options
Hello Steve, i have 1.6L pinto in my transit mk2, have followed all the instruction, but, the belt ended being way too tight, the crankshaft being pulled up by the tension and doing some weird noises inside the oil pan 😅 The bearings were ok but the thrust bearings showed signs of friction on their edges. I then decided to reinstall the belt but to loosen up the tensioner a bit before tightening the screws, so i can easily pull 1/4 of a turn on the belt (hard to do before). The weird noises then stopped (it was whining noise like metal to metal singing stuff). But, when the engine is hot, the belt is some tight again due to heat expansion .. 😂 Any advice is welcome, thank you for all the videos, i changed all the clutch parts myself thanks to your video on it ❤
This takes me back 40+yrs to the Ford Cortina cars of that era . In it's day a very good reliable engine, if my memory serves me correctly didn't Cosworth get involved with modifications to get a huge amount of power from them . As for the timing belt and tensioner replacement , any one know of an easier engine to do this work on , I certainly don't .
Thanks for the comments, and indeed the Cosworth was an evolution for more power.. the SOHC became s DOHC etc... for a long time these were fitted in Sierra's . This engine is so simple.... indeed and great to tune
? - I put another air cleaner on a 73 pinto 2.0 and was wondering how to hook valve cover breather to the air cleaner. for the past 3 yrs, I just have some marine carpet with a clamp where you'd hook the hose on the oil breather? ON YOUR SET UP HERE, does your oil cap have a hose for connecting somewhere??
I just noticed that the marks you made on the cam pulley were both on parts of the pulley itself, rather than one on the pulley and one on the block/head, so they both rotated when you turned it; that means that it would appear to be aligned regardless of where it was rotated to.
Hello, Sorry to have posted my question on your video but as I see that you have mastered the preparation of the Pinto engine, I dared. I have not found any site (UK) which can give me the characteristics of my camshaft. The goal is to give my Marlin Berlinetta a few more horses. Have a good trip everyone. Laurent.
Thanks for making a clear and well-made video on how to do this, I want to do this on my ford fairmont (which has the 2.3L pinto engine), where did you find the torque specs, because the haynes manual i have doesn't cover them.
I replaced the timing belt on a 1800 Mazda F8 engine. The timing marks on the cam pulley is A or B or CX. Which of these are the correct setting? Much appreciate your help in this.
I got the timing marks on now, I took off the timing belt, Top Pully to clean and check, and valve cover and notice the followers were a bit tight, so I adjusted them to 0.008 and 0.010 like it says in the books and put belt back, to me it looks like the belt is in the same spot it was, but marks line up to TDC with all 3 spots now. pulling teeth here lol. it seems to run good now, but hesitates slightly here and there while I'm nailing it up to 3500 rpm to shift, I'm thinkin points are old, I'm gonna buy the Pertronix upgrade set up. it stopped stalling at the stops also. gettin better :) On my Vac gauge when setting Carb with Vac hooked into side of intake port i'm only pulling just barely over 15. power seems way better than it was before.
Good morning when you have to change the timing belt, piston 1 must be at TDC but he arrives 2 times which is the right time. Beginning of admission or beginning the stroke .Thank you .
I just learned to understand the compression stroke with TDC after watching a few youtubes, I checked that, the #1 spark plug hole - blows as it's coming up on tpd, that's how it should be, right?? On my 2.0 `1972 Pinto, it only runs good if I'm at like 20 before TDC, should be 6 before TDC. I can't understand whats going on. all my timing marks line up.
Thanks for the comments, Indeed the compression stroke is piston that moves upwards with both valves closed. if you remove the spark-plug then compressed air/fuel will blow out the spark-plug hole. Now for the advance, there is a static advance and that is typical 6 degrees, and idle running advance that is aways a bit more... Depending on your idle RPM, the advance increases.. due to the vacuum that is created and the distributor is rotated for more advance. There is nothing wrong with more advance if the engine runs smooth with it. As long as the engine does not start to ping when you accelerate rapidly ( you will hear that pinging sound). That means to much advance. No in your case there are a couple of possible factors that affect the 20 degrees. First, the timing marks can be off, secondly much depends on the camshaft that is fitted ( is a standard or something else). The best way is to dial -in the distribution and adjust and find the real TDC... But that is a bit of work and understanding on how the engine works. I might make a video on that soon
Thank you for the comments, A kent Fast Road. Power Band: 2500-7000rpm Valve Lift: 0.455" inlet/0.442" exhaust Duration: 285° inlet/280° exhaust Timing Figures: 34/71/68/32. Inlet Timing: 108° ATDC. Inlet Valve Lift at TDC: 0.086" Valve Clearances: .010" inlet/.012" exhaust
I owned a 1989 Nissan Sentra with the 1.6 petrol engine i bought it 20 years ago never had disastrous engine failures since I replace the timing belt every 2 years and never revved the engine hard (not going past 5,000 revs) the only issues I had with it was a dodgy water pump, hoses and a worn clutch lining and general parts that wear out with time
Here in the states a general rule for any engine with this design over 60,000 miles was to replace the water pump along with the belt. Don't want to go back in later and replace .
Fan belt driven water pump on these engines. No need to mess with the timing belt at all to change the pump on these. As I recall, you do have to remove the cover, but that’s as far as you need to go.
I am doing a timing belt replacement on my 95 Ford ranger 2.3 L. With the engine in the truck I’ve had a Devil of a time getting the cam marks and the crankshaft properly aligned but have done so now. Unfortunately the Oil pump/auxiliary Pulley doesn’t Want to lineup with its Mark. I am thinking that the tensioner is throwing things off when I Engage it on the belt. Theoretically, I don’t see a problem being one or two teeth off on the Oil pump pulley. I wonder if there would be others who might agree or disagree with me about that? . It is a non-interference engine and the valves and pistons aren’t that close.
A good way on newer vehicles because they are a lot more complicated is a sharp knife and split the timing belt pull the front half of the belt off and slide the new belt of half ways then cut the back half of the old belt and then push the new belt all the way on to the pulleys
I am doing a timing belt replacement on my 95 Ford ranger 2.3 L. With the engine in the truck I’ve had a Devil of a time getting the cam marks and the crankshaft properly aligned but have done so now. Unfortunately the Oil pump/auxiliary Pulley doesn’t Want to lineup with its Mark. I am thinking that the tensioner is throwing things off when I Engage it on the belt. Theoretically, I don’t see a problem being one or two teeth off on the Oil pump pulley. I wonder if there would be others who might agree or disagree with me about that? . It is a non-interference engine and the valves and pistons aren’t that close.
If it has a distributor, it needs to be properly aligned. That shaft runs the distributor. (I don’t remember what year they went distributorless ignition system). Your distributor will be way off otherwise. Guess you could turn it to compensate, but may not be able to turn it far enough.
The engine has two Coil pack distributors and I really don’t know how they work but I don’t think they run off that gear because they are on the other side of the engine. I am still trying to get all three sprockets to lineup and I have not seen any RUclips videos about this problem. They all say get it right and then engage the tensioner but when I do that did cam sprocket becomes a tooth off the setting. I just don’t think the Oil pump setting is that critical, I will try again tomorrow, thanks for your comment
@@D3Sshooter I just purchased a 1929 Mercedes Gazelle kit car and it had a Ford pinto engine in it. I need to take the engine apart to check it. Didn't know what engine I had. But I think it is a 2300cc Both of the numbers I gave you are from the block I have.
That motor is what is called an " interference motor". Meaning that if the timing belt breaks while the engine is running the valves will smash into the pistons. At the very least you'll need a new set of valves.
Don’t know about that particular engine, but I know for a fact that the 2.3 version of that engine is NOT an interference engine. Had a Fox body Mustang with the 2.3 engine that broke a timing belt while it was running. I just realigned the timing marks, replaced the belt, and everything was fine. Same thing on a Ranger with the 2.3. Now the Talon I had? That was definitely an interference engine! Major valve and guide damage......
Thanks for the comments Rich, indeed and much depends on the engine type itself and what was done to during tuning. High lifting cams, high compression rates (mods) can cause it on an engine that standard could survive
Thanks for the comments John, That is indeed possible. It all depends on how the engine is build and or modified. I have a spare block and head so I could do some measurements...on this 2L
Yes it as according to the ford manual, but don't mix the word Pinto with the car Pinto that you have in the US. The Pinto motor is build by Ford in Germany many moons ago and was fitted to Cortina's, Sierra's, Granada's and Capri's
Thank for the comments, you might be confused with the name Pinto, that is /was a very popular engine by Ford. Fitted in many cars like the Ford Capri, Taunus and so on.... Not the US known Pinto
I am doing a timing belt replacement on my 95 Ford ranger 2.3 L. With the engine in the truck I’ve had a Devil of a time getting the cam marks and the crankshaft properly aligned but have done so now. Unfortunately the Oil pump/auxiliary Pulley doesn’t Want to lineup with its Mark. I am thinking that the tensioner is throwing things off when I Engage it on the belt. Theoretically, I don’t see a problem being one or two teeth off on the Oil pump pulley. I wonder if there would be others who might agree or disagree with me about that? . It is a non-interference engine and the valves and pistons aren’t that close.
I REALLY SORRY BUT IT CAN BE SEEN YOU DID NOT UNDERSTAND ME I WANTED YOU TO HAVE THE ANSWER EXACT WHICH OF THOSE TWO TIMES AND THE RIGHT TIME. THANK YOU THOUSAND.
I am doing a timing belt replacement on my 95 Ford ranger 2.3 L. With the engine in the truck I’ve had a Devil of a time getting the cam marks and the crankshaft properly aligned but have done so now. Unfortunately the Oil pump/auxiliary Pulley doesn’t Want to lineup with its Mark. I am thinking that the tensioner is throwing things off when I Engage it on the belt. Theoretically, I don’t see a problem being one or two teeth off on the Oil pump pulley. I wonder if there would be others who might agree or disagree with me about that? . It is a non-interference engine and the valves and pistons aren’t that close.
.The first time I replaced a T-belt on this engine, in Russia, I failed to consider the importance of that Distributor pulley & didn't have it properly 'timed' to the other two. Wouldn't start. After a pull of vodka (Теперь мне нужна водка! ), I saw my error and readjusted same. i.imgur.com/RGkhIFG.jpg
Steve! I have a dire question for you, I am trying to time my 2.0 pinto in an inboard hydroplane but there are no timing marks as there is no crank pulley and the flywheel doesn’t have any marks. I have TDC and just put in a new electrical distributor and now trying to set the timing but no marks to go off. I would be greatful for any wisdom! Corey@coreyseemann.com Hope all is well!!
Hi, here is what i would do.. 1.) remove the valve cover, 2.) remove the sparkplugs. 3.) Rotate the engine in its normal direction and watch the valves of cylinder 1. 4.) rotate until both are fully closed 5.) through the sparkplug hole, insert a dial ( micrometer with arm) ,making sure that it rests on the piston ( that one should be near TDC. you can also use a screwdriver or platic rod and make sure that it sits on the psiton 6.) zero rise the dial (if you have one) 7.) Rock the engine back and forth, and watch the dial for the movement or the stick.screwdriver 8.) with the dial you will see that the distance increase ( Pistion going down) or decreases (Piston coming up)... there will be a place were dwells and toggels over. That is you real TDC. 9.) if you used the screwdriver method watch it when it reaches the highest lift as the piston is moving it upwards.. rock back and forth the engine and see when the screwdriver goes down again. the point at which the screwdriver is at it highest point is your TDC 10.) with the engine set at TDC make some markers on the flywheel and housing. That is you reference. 11.) now you can measure the flywheel (round the edge with a rope ), devided that distance by 360 and you have the distance for one degree. 12.) with that you can mark advance and retard degrees on your flywheel by just multiplying that number by the desired degrees and use that distance on a piece of rope measured from the TDC. This will work 100%.... good luck
Авто/Мото
Two comments. First, when changing the belt, always check all the groves in the various pulleys. If you don’t, a few broken off cogs may stay in the groves. The belt will slip on the pulleys when you try to start. Second, if you have the 2.0 engine, you shouldn’t have to worry about valve interference with the pistons.
Before they had adjustable cam pulleys (2.0L engine), one of the hacks to adjust your cam timing was to file a small amount off one side of the “keyway” (.02” for every one degree up to .10”; if my memory is correct from 45 years ago). You reassemble the pulley to the cam but leave it slightly loose. You’d then crank the engine a few turns which caused the cam to slide towards the filed side of the keyway. Then tighten the bolt holding the pulley to the camshaft.
That's what I had and went through 3 of them belts at 16 yo I was just an an expert 😂
I had a Ford Cortina 1600OHC back in the 1980's and one day my wife called me at work to say that a red light had come on and the engine had stopped..."Jeez, the motor's blown up" I thought - but when I got home, it was a snapped timing belt. Got a replacement, radiator out, cover off, fixed it on the driveway, no special tools, easiest job ever!
Just "thank you" for this nice episode in the reanimation of Old Sporty!
My pleasure
Evening Steve. Great video as always 👍🏻 So simply doing a cam belt out of the car lol 😂 That pinto engine looks absolutely fantastic and a credit too you 😃 Thanks for taking the time to do the videos. Cheers Stevie 😎🇬🇧
Thanks stevie, It has taken me some time to get that engine sorted. A bit more tuning and it will go back in the dax...
I have done lots of belts but still watched the video and enjoyed it Steve 😂👍
Thanks for the comments
Thanks for the vid Steve, comprehensive as always. I'm pulling apart the 2.1 Pinto in my Westfield 7 for the first time, and this was very useful. Cheers from Canada!
Thank you for todays tutoring excellent as usual. I love the blue colour you've used it really sets it off nicely,
Thank you! Cheers!
G'day Steve, as always an informative and professionally presented video. Good move also replacing the tensioner, interestingly a lot of cambelt failures can be attributed to a failed tensioner whereby the pulley literally falls off the spindle due to bearing failure then follows the catastrophic damage to the engine once the belt dismounts from the pulleys.
Glad you enjoyed it
Cant wait to see the electronic ignition episode. Currently I am doing a similar rebuild and slight performance enhancement on alfa nord engine. Loving your work👍
Sounds great! I am keeping the coil, but use a full electronic vacuum less distributor. Soon to come out. I wanted first a programmable full electronic system but that is not as reliable as some told me/// Maybe I try . What are you looking at ?
D3Sshooter I am interested into implementing a programabe ignition only ECU something like NoDiz pro2 with throttle position sensor☺️ but I am still contemplating other options
Miha Ber i see. Not all that hard but a lot of sensors to be installed.
Very well described. I enjoy all your videos.
Thank you very much!
Very cool and excellent quality video content. Thanks
Much appreciated!
@@D3Sshooter 👍
Great tutorial Steve , I think that's pretty foolproof , (famous last words ).
Thanks for the comments, and I think it is
Hello Steve, i have 1.6L pinto in my transit mk2, have followed all the instruction, but, the belt ended being way too tight, the crankshaft being pulled up by the tension and doing some weird noises inside the oil pan 😅
The bearings were ok but the thrust bearings showed signs of friction on their edges.
I then decided to reinstall the belt but to loosen up the tensioner a bit before tightening the screws, so i can easily pull 1/4 of a turn on the belt (hard to do before). The weird noises then stopped (it was whining noise like metal to metal singing stuff).
But, when the engine is hot, the belt is some tight again due to heat expansion .. 😂
Any advice is welcome, thank you for all the videos, i changed all the clutch parts myself thanks to your video on it ❤
This takes me back 40+yrs to the Ford Cortina cars of that era . In it's day a very good reliable engine, if my memory serves me correctly didn't Cosworth get involved with modifications to get a huge amount of power from them . As for the timing belt and tensioner replacement , any one know of an easier engine to do this work on , I certainly don't .
Thanks for the comments, and indeed the Cosworth was an evolution for more power.. the SOHC became s DOHC etc... for a long time these were fitted in Sierra's . This engine is so simple.... indeed and great to tune
Now you've got me interested in the camshaft. Looks like you want some additional ponies in the Pinto 😊
Thanks for the comments, and yes more is to come on the tuning...
Great video very well explained 👏 cheers 🍻
Glad you enjoyed it
Thank you, very well explained!
You are welcome!
? - I put another air cleaner on a 73 pinto 2.0 and was wondering how to hook valve cover breather to the air cleaner. for the past 3 yrs, I just have some marine carpet with a clamp where you'd hook the hose on the oil breather? ON YOUR SET UP HERE, does your oil cap have a hose for connecting somewhere??
Thank-you Mr. You-teach
me-some-thing-very-inportant.
I appreciat that-you-have-full
of-knowledge on-different-fild.
God-bless-you-Mr-sorry-i-dont
know-your-name.
You are very welcome
Why do you use hyphens?
Well done I must appreciated. Thanks
Much appreciated!
I just noticed that the marks you made on the cam pulley were both on parts of the pulley itself, rather than one on the pulley and one on the block/head, so they both rotated when you turned it; that means that it would appear to be aligned regardless of where it was rotated to.
I also had a mark on the block
I have a 1980 pinto its OEM but it's a good car was a fun engine build. I would like this guys engine it looks soooooo nice. Well done
Thanks for the comments
Excellent Video! 👍
Thanks
Do you by any chance have the part number for the timing belt on that Ford motor for the pinto
Hello,
Sorry to have posted my question on your video but as I see that you have mastered the preparation of the Pinto engine, I dared.
I have not found any site (UK) which can give me the characteristics of my camshaft. The goal is to give my Marlin Berlinetta a few more horses.
Have a good trip everyone.
Laurent.
Thanks for the comments,
Thank you for the break down on how to do this. Appreciated. Jim in Chile
Glad it was helpful!
Thanks for making a clear and well-made video on how to do this, I want to do this on my ford fairmont (which has the 2.3L pinto engine), where did you find the torque specs, because the haynes manual i have doesn't cover them.
Glad it helped, Thanks for the comments... I have the workshop manuals for the pinto 2L
@@D3Sshooter Ah, guess I'll see if I can find them anywhere, I presume most of the torque specs are the same.
@@vini1277 The 2.3 engine is a Lima, not a Pinto. You don't need torque specs for a cambelt job. Just tighten them enough so they don't come loose.
@@taunuslunatic404 Wait, how come? Don't you always need a torque spec?
@@vini1277 I have the shop manuals. Let me know if you still need them. I can send you a pdf
hi there how do you replace the cam,crank and aux oil seals also to remove that sprocket
I replaced the timing belt on a 1800 Mazda F8 engine. The timing marks on the cam pulley is A or B or CX. Which of these are the correct setting? Much appreciate your help in this.
TXS for the comments, sorry I have no idea
I got the timing marks on now, I took off the timing belt, Top Pully to clean and check, and valve cover and notice the followers were a bit tight, so I adjusted them to 0.008 and 0.010 like it says in the books and put belt back, to me it looks like the belt is in the same spot it was, but marks line up to TDC with all 3 spots now. pulling teeth here lol. it seems to run good now, but hesitates slightly here and there while I'm nailing it up to 3500 rpm to shift, I'm thinkin points are old, I'm gonna buy the Pertronix upgrade set up. it stopped stalling at the stops also. gettin better :) On my Vac gauge when setting Carb with Vac hooked into side of intake port i'm only pulling just barely over 15. power seems way better than it was before.
Thanks for the comments, good feedback .. thank you
Hey Lacy! see you at STAMPEDE? (looking this up to get her going after 11 yr setting in the garage).
Good morning when you have to change the timing belt, piston 1 must be at TDC but he arrives 2 times which is the right time. Beginning of admission or beginning the stroke .Thank you .
Thanks for the comments..
I just learned to understand the compression stroke with TDC after watching a few youtubes, I checked that, the #1 spark plug hole - blows as it's coming up on tpd, that's how it should be, right?? On my 2.0 `1972 Pinto, it only runs good if I'm at like 20 before TDC, should be 6 before TDC. I can't understand whats going on. all my timing marks line up.
Thanks for the comments, Indeed the compression stroke is piston that moves upwards with both valves closed. if you remove the spark-plug then compressed air/fuel will blow out the spark-plug hole. Now for the advance, there is a static advance and that is typical 6 degrees, and idle running advance that is aways a bit more... Depending on your idle RPM, the advance increases.. due to the vacuum that is created and the distributor is rotated for more advance. There is nothing wrong with more advance if the engine runs smooth with it. As long as the engine does not start to ping when you accelerate rapidly ( you will hear that pinging sound). That means to much advance. No in your case there are a couple of possible factors that affect the 20 degrees. First, the timing marks can be off, secondly much depends on the camshaft that is fitted ( is a standard or something else). The best way is to dial -in the distribution and adjust and find the real TDC... But that is a bit of work and understanding on how the engine works. I might make a video on that soon
@@D3Sshooter Thanks for helping, When i take out the #1 plug and shine a light into the hole, I can dee it's spot on TDC on the crank pulley.
Big help,thank you.
Glad it helped
What Camshaft are you using? i use a " Wade 520x starts to rock and roll around 3k-7k rpm ( sweet spot )
Thank you for the comments, A kent Fast Road. Power Band: 2500-7000rpm
Valve Lift: 0.455" inlet/0.442" exhaust Duration: 285° inlet/280° exhaust
Timing Figures: 34/71/68/32. Inlet Timing: 108° ATDC. Inlet Valve Lift at TDC: 0.086"
Valve Clearances: .010" inlet/.012" exhaust
@@D3Sshooter Wade 520x = 311In/313Ex
full lift value = .477" 12.12mm
lobe separation degrees = 102.5
Where did you get the ford tensioner from? I'm currently looking at getting another variant but i want quality 😂
Thanks for the comments, at Burton
I owned a 1989 Nissan Sentra with the 1.6 petrol engine
i bought it 20 years ago never had disastrous engine failures
since I replace the timing belt every 2 years and never revved the engine hard (not going past 5,000 revs)
the only issues I had with it was a dodgy water pump, hoses and a worn clutch lining and general parts that wear out with time
Thanks for the comments and tips
Please note in the US; this is for the 2,000 cc engine in the 1973 and OLDER Pinto. NOT the 2,300 engine!
Thanks for the comments
I'm curious about what carbs and intake manifolds those are. They look bad ass.
Thanks for the comments, those are WEBER
why I don’t have the marks made correctly on the crankshaft of the pulley .. because of this I can’t accurately set the ignition ..
Here in the states a general rule for any engine with this design over 60,000 miles was to replace the water pump along with the belt. Don't want to go back in later and replace .
Fan belt driven water pump on these engines. No need to mess with the timing belt at all to change the pump on these. As I recall, you do have to remove the cover, but that’s as far as you need to go.
Thanks for the comments gents, and indeed as John says, its a separate V snare not related to the timing belt.
Very helpful thanks a lot
I am doing a timing belt replacement on my 95 Ford ranger 2.3 L. With the engine in the truck I’ve had a Devil of a time getting the cam marks and the crankshaft properly aligned but have done so now. Unfortunately the Oil pump/auxiliary Pulley doesn’t Want to lineup with its Mark. I am thinking that the tensioner is throwing things off when I Engage it on the belt. Theoretically, I don’t see a problem being one or two teeth off on the Oil pump pulley. I wonder if there would be others who might agree or disagree with me about that? . It is a non-interference engine and the valves and pistons aren’t that close.
A good way on newer vehicles because they are a lot more complicated is a sharp knife and split the timing belt pull the front half of the belt off and slide the new belt of half ways then cut the back half of the old belt and then push the new belt all the way on to the pulleys
Thanks for the comments
I am doing a timing belt replacement on my 95 Ford ranger 2.3 L. With the engine in the truck I’ve had a Devil of a time getting the cam marks and the crankshaft properly aligned but have done so now. Unfortunately the Oil pump/auxiliary Pulley doesn’t Want to lineup with its Mark. I am thinking that the tensioner is throwing things off when I Engage it on the belt. Theoretically, I don’t see a problem being one or two teeth off on the Oil pump pulley. I wonder if there would be others who might agree or disagree with me about that? . It is a non-interference engine and the valves and pistons aren’t that close.
If it has a distributor, it needs to be properly aligned. That shaft runs the distributor.
(I don’t remember what year they went distributorless ignition system).
Your distributor will be way off otherwise. Guess you could turn it to compensate, but may not be able to turn it far enough.
The engine has two Coil pack distributors and I really don’t know how they work but I don’t think they run off that gear because they are on the other side of the engine. I am still trying to get all three sprockets to lineup and I have not seen any RUclips videos about this problem. They all say get it right and then engage the tensioner but when I do that did cam sprocket becomes a tooth off the setting. I just don’t think the Oil pump setting is that critical, I will try again tomorrow, thanks for your comment
Indeed
Steve, is this the 2.0 German engine?
Yes it is
Thank you i learnt
Bonjour D3Sshooter, Peux-tu m'aider à identifier un arbre à cames 2.0 Pinto: K-355, C.W.C, S-1238 et KCRC27 OU KCRC21. Cordialement.
Thanks for the comments, I will need to do some research to find out what the cam is.
Can you tell me what ford engine I have?
D42e6312-bd
Or
D42e6015-al
Not sure I understand the question.
@@D3Sshooter I just purchased a 1929 Mercedes Gazelle kit car and it had a Ford pinto engine in it. I need to take the engine apart to check it. Didn't know what engine I had. But I think it is a 2300cc
Both of the numbers I gave you are from the block I have.
2.0 or 2.3?
TDC on compression stroke by sticking your finger on the plug hole and checking for piston rising on the compression stroke, surely!
Thanks for the comments, lol... that why mechanics have broken fingers lol
@@D3Sshooter lmao.. yeah right
At 8:50 you can clearly see you put both cam timing marks on the cam. There is no mark on the head anywhere.
That motor is what is called an " interference motor". Meaning that if the timing belt breaks while the engine is running the valves will smash into the pistons. At the very least you'll need a new set of valves.
Don’t know about that particular engine, but I know for a fact that the 2.3 version of that engine is NOT an interference engine. Had a Fox body Mustang with the 2.3 engine that broke a timing belt while it was running. I just realigned the timing marks, replaced the belt, and everything was fine. Same thing on a Ranger with the 2.3. Now the Talon I had? That was definitely an interference engine! Major valve and guide damage......
Thanks for the comments Rich, indeed and much depends on the engine type itself and what was done to during tuning. High lifting cams, high compression rates (mods) can cause it on an engine that standard could survive
Thanks for the comments John, That is indeed possible. It all depends on how the engine is build and or modified. I have a spare block and head so I could do some measurements...on this 2L
John Acuff: You are talking about a different engine, this is the Ford Europe Pinto, not the American pinto engine.
@@453421abcdefg12345 did not know there was a difference.
Solid
60k kilometers?
In the US, it is 96k kilometers (145k in California)
Yes it as according to the ford manual, but don't mix the word Pinto with the car Pinto that you have in the US. The Pinto motor is build by Ford in Germany many moons ago and was fitted to Cortina's, Sierra's, Granada's and Capri's
When engines were easy to work on. A cambelt on one of these is so easy to do..
Much appreciated and thanks for the comments
Some of us have permanently sore knuckles :)
I can imagine
So do I
@@D3Sshooter Known here in UK as spanner rash .
SUPERB!!!!!
What can you tell me about a 70hm6015aa eng
I would need to look that up, are you after the angle chart ?
@@D3Sshooter There's one of these motors near me for $150 rebuildt yrs ago I was wondering if it's any good to have
👍
I didn't think the Pinto engine was an interference engine.
Thank for the comments, you might be confused with the name Pinto, that is /was a very popular engine by Ford. Fitted in many cars like the Ford Capri, Taunus and so on.... Not the US known Pinto
That looks like my Ranger engine.
I am doing a timing belt replacement on my 95 Ford ranger 2.3 L. With the engine in the truck I’ve had a Devil of a time getting the cam marks and the crankshaft properly aligned but have done so now. Unfortunately the Oil pump/auxiliary Pulley doesn’t Want to lineup with its Mark. I am thinking that the tensioner is throwing things off when I Engage it on the belt. Theoretically, I don’t see a problem being one or two teeth off on the Oil pump pulley. I wonder if there would be others who might agree or disagree with me about that? . It is a non-interference engine and the valves and pistons aren’t that close.
I REALLY SORRY BUT IT CAN BE SEEN YOU DID NOT UNDERSTAND ME I WANTED YOU TO HAVE THE ANSWER EXACT WHICH OF THOSE TWO TIMES AND THE RIGHT TIME. THANK YOU THOUSAND.
OK I see, watch the valves of cylinder 1 and both should be full closed when the TDC is shown.. That is at the end of the compression stroke
Luca , did that answer your question ?
@@D3Sshooter Ok .Thank you.
Probably it's the most basic timing belt to replace ever
Thanks for the comments, it is
I am doing a timing belt replacement on my 95 Ford ranger 2.3 L. With the engine in the truck I’ve had a Devil of a time getting the cam marks and the crankshaft properly aligned but have done so now. Unfortunately the Oil pump/auxiliary Pulley doesn’t Want to lineup with its Mark. I am thinking that the tensioner is throwing things off when I Engage it on the belt. Theoretically, I don’t see a problem being one or two teeth off on the Oil pump pulley. I wonder if there would be others who might agree or disagree with me about that? . It is a non-interference engine and the valves and pistons aren’t that close.
👍🇦🇺👀
Thanks for the comments Kerry
if you break a belt on std pinto u will not destroy your valves.
Yes, that is true unless its a modified engine
.The first time I replaced a T-belt on this engine, in Russia, I failed to consider the importance of that Distributor pulley & didn't have it properly 'timed' to the other two. Wouldn't start. After a pull of vodka
(Теперь мне нужна водка! ), I saw my error and readjusted same. i.imgur.com/RGkhIFG.jpg
Thank you for the comments, that can happen... at least you got it corrected
Перевести
Steve! I have a dire question for you, I am trying to time my 2.0 pinto in an inboard hydroplane but there are no timing marks as there is no crank pulley and the flywheel doesn’t have any marks.
I have TDC and just put in a new electrical distributor and now trying to set the timing but no marks to go off.
I would be greatful for any wisdom!
Corey@coreyseemann.com
Hope all is well!!
Hi, here is what i would do..
1.) remove the valve cover,
2.) remove the sparkplugs.
3.) Rotate the engine in its normal direction and watch the valves of cylinder 1.
4.) rotate until both are fully closed
5.) through the sparkplug hole, insert a dial ( micrometer with arm) ,making sure that it rests on the piston ( that one should be near TDC. you can also use a screwdriver or platic rod and make sure that it sits on the psiton
6.) zero rise the dial (if you have one)
7.) Rock the engine back and forth, and watch the dial for the movement or the stick.screwdriver
8.) with the dial you will see that the distance increase ( Pistion going down) or decreases (Piston coming up)... there will be a place were dwells and toggels over. That is you real TDC.
9.) if you used the screwdriver method watch it when it reaches the highest lift as the piston is moving it upwards.. rock back and forth the engine and see when the screwdriver goes down again. the point at which the screwdriver is at it highest point is your TDC
10.) with the engine set at TDC make some markers on the flywheel and housing. That is you reference.
11.) now you can measure the flywheel (round the edge with a rope ), devided that distance by 360 and you have the distance for one degree.
12.) with that you can mark advance and retard degrees on your flywheel by just multiplying that number by the desired degrees and use that distance on a piece of rope measured from the TDC.
This will work 100%.... good luck