For anyone watching this, im gonna give some advise that helped me: if your doing this inside your engine bay, its a little tougher, what can help and what really saved me was, remove the tensioner bolt entirely (the smaller one) and then tighten the bolt with the spring on it so that its tight but you can still move the tensioner back and then have that spring bolt hold it in place. then i cranked the frick out of it all the way back (past where the smaller 13mm would be stopping you) then you can easily route your belt, loosen the 17mm and let it self tighten and then throw in the 13mm and done!
You helped me a lot because I don't have marks on my 2.3... Gracias amigo!! ... can you make one to set up the distributor too? There are no videos like that.
Thank you so much for the video. Is this an engine that is non interference ??? The reason I ask. Is because. Im curious if the timing belt breaks while driving that the engine would still be ok
I just did my timing belt on my 88 Ford Thunderbird car turned on find idles great drives awesome but after a period of time of driving car stumbles and wants to shut off would one tooth off can cause that
@@MultiChipsta OK cool thanks 🙏🏽 my tabs broke for my timing. That’s the reason I was a little bit worried I did the dipstick method and it look close to me.
How did you set timing without the cover? You may have been able to set "Initial timing", but you need to pull the spout and set timing to 10* BTDC. Otherwise your timing is way off. Contact me at bigrmotorsports.com I offer a nice timing pointer and I also have stock used portions that have the timing mark for vheap if you contact me via the website email@@820performancecomptonbro4
Hey chip I just replaced my tensioner on my 85 svo .i got everything lined up but when i go to crank it over i loose tension on my belt .and yes the bolt is loose on the tensioner
Once you set the timing as shwon in video, you then tighten the tensioner down. That means tightening the 17mm bolt that is attached to tension spring and also the 13 or 10mm also. there is no way it should move after that. Now if you are syaing you set the belt and using the engine to crank it over to check, that is not the way to do it. you have to crank it over and check by hand
@@MultiChipsta I think I got it figured out ,I painted the head and I think the tensioner was sticking to the head ,so I grinded the paint off and put some grease to it .but yes it does need a need spring on the tensioner. I was just being a cheap ass and didnt want to get it .I believe it's like 50 bucks .thanks for ur help chip
does this work for the 2.0 carburated ranger?? i lost the plastic timing mark for the camshaft pulley :c... and im not sure if i set the timing correctly... plz help
Help!! My crank keeps slipping when applying tension, not my cam gear. I line up all marks, put it in 5th to hold the crank, apply tension, crank over twice, and the crank is one tooth forward
If you watch my second and last video it clearly states not to add tensioner. Let it self tighten. Put car in nuetral so that crank can spin freely. Line up all the marks and let the tesnsioner loose. Once it’s loose you crank the crank pulley two full rotations until the crank is at TDC and then check it.
No you don’t use the timing mark in the aux gear. You only take of distributor cap and make sure rotor is on #1 with TFI in the 5 O clock position. If belt is still off you can set the TFi at 5 O clock and grab the aux pulley and turn it until rotor is at the position I stayed. Which is just to the right of that square cap screw.
@@MultiChipsta I put the car in time like you did there was a little dot on the cam sprocket no other markings anywhere and did everything you said hopefully it starts
by far the best video on the 2.3ls for how to time it thank you
For anyone watching this, im gonna give some advise that helped me:
if your doing this inside your engine bay, its a little tougher, what can help and what really saved me was, remove the tensioner bolt entirely (the smaller one) and then tighten the bolt with the spring on it so that its tight but you can still move the tensioner back and then have that spring bolt hold it in place. then i cranked the frick out of it all the way back (past where the smaller 13mm would be stopping you) then you can easily route your belt, loosen the 17mm and let it self tighten and then throw in the 13mm and done!
You helped me a lot because I don't have marks on my 2.3... Gracias amigo!!
... can you make one to set up the distributor too?
There are no videos like that.
Thanks! You solved are problem Will pass this one around
Great Video!!! Thanks Man!!!
I love it when someone knows there shit
this video is appreciated 👍thanks
Hey chip what's ur recommendation on torqueing a head on a svo I hear 51 ft ib and 90 degree and I also hear 60 75 90 ft ib what's your take ?
Hey chip what's your thoughts on the aluminum cam gear wit the advancing marks
why does the book call for an additional 30 lb of torque on the belt
Only can go by what i know from years of backyard wrenching. It’s never let me down in over 25 years.
Thank you so much for the video. Is this an engine that is non interference ??? The reason I ask. Is because. Im curious if the timing belt breaks while driving that the engine would still be ok
James Laiola it is non interference. If belt breaks you are safe
@@MultiChipsta hola buen día,está sincronía me sirve para hacerlo en una Ford Ranger modelo 86 motor 2.3 L, gracias, saludos
I just did my timing belt on my 88 Ford Thunderbird car turned on find idles great drives awesome but after a period of time of driving car stumbles and wants to shut off would one tooth off can cause that
It’s sounds like you have a TFI module that is overheating. That is the rectangular module on the side of the distributor.
@@MultiChipsta OK cool thanks 🙏🏽 my tabs broke for my timing. That’s the reason I was a little bit worried I did the dipstick method and it look close to me.
How did you set timing without the cover? You may have been able to set "Initial timing", but you need to pull the spout and set timing to 10* BTDC. Otherwise your timing is way off. Contact me at bigrmotorsports.com I offer a nice timing pointer and I also have stock used portions that have the timing mark for vheap if you contact me via the website email@@820performancecomptonbro4
Cam you tell me what ford engine I have?
D42e6312-bd
Or
D42e6015-al
It looks very similar to this one. It is a ford.
Hey chip I just replaced my tensioner on my 85 svo .i got everything lined up but when i go to crank it over i loose tension on my belt .and yes the bolt is loose on the tensioner
Once you set the timing as shwon in video, you then tighten the tensioner down. That means tightening the 17mm bolt that is attached to tension spring and also the 13 or 10mm also. there is no way it should move after that. Now if you are syaing you set the belt and using the engine to crank it over to check, that is not the way to do it. you have to crank it over and check by hand
@@MultiChipsta yes I turned it over 360 degrees and then everything was lined up .so when I crank the engine the belt is loose again
@@unlimited408mike Then it sounds like you either have a week tensioner spring, or it may be actually missing the dowel on your tensioner
@@MultiChipsta I think I got it figured out ,I painted the head and I think the tensioner was sticking to the head ,so I grinded the paint off and put some grease to it .but yes it does need a need spring on the tensioner. I was just being a cheap ass and didnt want to get it .I believe it's like 50 bucks .thanks for ur help chip
Awsome
does this work for the 2.0 carburated ranger?? i lost the plastic timing mark for the camshaft pulley :c... and im not sure if i set the timing correctly... plz help
Yes it works on the 2.0
Help!! My crank keeps slipping when applying tension, not my cam gear. I line up all marks, put it in 5th to hold the crank, apply tension, crank over twice, and the crank is one tooth forward
5th to hold the crank when setting timing and back in neutral when I crank over twice to check it's still good, btw
If you watch my second and last video it clearly states not to add tensioner. Let it self tighten. Put car in nuetral so that crank can spin freely. Line up all the marks and let the tesnsioner loose. Once it’s loose you crank the crank pulley two full rotations until the crank is at TDC and then check it.
Yes it is :)
So the auxiliary shaft isn’t timed? I’ve been fighting my 78 2.3 pinto timing for 3 months now
No you don’t use the timing mark in the aux gear. You only take of distributor cap and make sure rotor is on #1 with TFI in the 5 O clock position. If belt is still off you can set the TFi at 5 O clock and grab the aux pulley and turn it until rotor is at the position I stayed. Which is just to the right of that square cap screw.
@@MultiChipsta I put the car in time like you did there was a little dot on the cam sprocket no other markings anywhere and did everything you said hopefully it starts
Chip, is that you from the IE?
Que lástima que no entiendo mucho ingles