VW Mk1 Mk2 & Citi Golf Static Ignition Timing - NO Timing Light Needed!
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- Опубликовано: 2 фев 2020
- Setting timing in older VW; works on Citi golf too. No timing light required!
This procedure will be similar for other VW's from 1984-1993.
Parts required:
Distributor O-ring 027905261
Multimeter - amzn.to/3jWA5aE
Torque specs:
- Distributor hold down clamp bolt: 18ft/lbs or 25nm
Credit for this method goes to tolusina and kamzcab86 from VWVortex. More information can be found at cabby-info.com (not my site).
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I wanted to say thanks! I was able to set the timing perfectly!
Steve Snyder thanks for the feedback. glad it worked out for you!
That was better than any other video I’ve searched for, anywhere on the internet.
NA DDS glad it was helpful!!
Of all the videos I've watched in the hopes of learning how to set my 93 VW Fox Sedan's timing, this is by faaaaaaar the BEST! Thank you Oli!
🤩
Great video. I'll be trying this this weekend. Thanks for putting together this top notch mk1 content!
You're welcome. I've got some more in the works!
Thank you! This was very helpful. Re-set the timing on a Mk2 I recently purchased and found the power it was missing. Timing was way off. Completely transformed.
I love how similar 93 cabby and 90 rado engines are. Thanks again for more helpful content. Having such a weird issue going on with my car. pulling my hair out.
Wow, wish I found you a while ago. Awesome videos. I've been working on 1 of these cabriolet for a long time. Your videos have been very helpful.
Thanks
Thank you very much for this video, I was really worrying about swapping out the distributor on my 85 GTI and now it's not scary at all - thank you!
Welcome! Glad it helped. These cars generally are rather simple which is nice.
@@OlisGarage I don't suppose you have a video on how to do a timing belt on the same engine do you?
@@supremecamels7736 not yet. I need to make a video on that still. It’s on my list of things to film hopefully this summer
Nice work, will be setting mine tomorrow 👍 credit to you
Very well done video. This is new for me so I've watched it a few times. I will need to do this eventually - first I will have to remove my head due to a snapped spark plug.
The head isn’t that hard to remove. Watch the valve cover video as that is almost half the battle!
Then you just have the exhaust manifold and the timing belt.
Eventually I will make a video on head removal and timing belt changing. Unfortunately I changed the timing belt before I started filming maintenance on the car. But The brown rabbit convertible probably could use a timing belt.
What I will recommend is getting the Bentley service manual for these vehicles. It’s really helpful. Some things it doesn’t explain well, but overall it is really really useful. Especially if you plan to move and reinstall the head.
thanks , found rust in my hall effect plug on dist , shut off car from running , love you stuff
Soooo good! Might be just what i need!
Perfect!
Love the info 👍 Going to try this on my donor car
Thanks! I've been using the static method for quite a while and it works surprisingly well. When I get around to digging out the timing light I'll make a video comparing the results.
I watch your videos to get some ideas on what to do before tackling a job over the weekend for my Mk2. I watched this 3 times over until I realized you were stopping your buddy from rotating the engine when you heard the fuel pump buzz.
I was like how does he know where its currently timed too??? 😂 Looks to be a fun job for the weekend. Doing it alone sadly, with a camera pointed at the inspection port.
Ha, yes. Helpers always make jobs easier.
Were you able to get it timed?
For clarity purpose: @6:10 Oli says "we're early on the timing"...because the fuel pump buzzed (which we can't hear) before the timing marks are ligned up. So he adjusts the distributor by turning it a touch clock wise to retard the fuel pump buzz in order to match it to the engine timing. Then he checks again and the fuel pump buzz happens when the timing marks are inline.
Hi! This video comes to me on time, because I want to do the same on my 1992 Cabriolet. The engine runs and starts without problems, but it has a few small cuts while it is running. I hope after this I can improve and the engine feel smooth. As always, thanks for the information.
Hopefully you can make a video to repair the turn signals and the temperature sensor.
Good luck! I’m also working on making a video on a general tuneup (filters, plugs, etc). If you haven’t done that yet, it could also help
Thats so good
Your vids are great
Thank you!!
Awesome video! Would a timing light work great as well? Put a white mark on that 6 deg before tdc on the flywheel, and shoot thr light at it, or do you wanna have the white mark on the tdc mark?
Another great video. Thank you Oli.
I have an off-off question. Do you have an idea where to find the large intake boot connected to the throttle body? Mine is cracked and I've had no luck finding a replacement.
Thanks
Jim
dude your video is super cool bit i alligned everything but the car wont start and when i allign it back again the cam mark will be off and the rotor will point on spark wire number 4
I'm still to set mine. I hope i do it well
Great video 🔥 but my golf has a mechanical fuel pump (carbureted) so is this method still possible or would I need the timing light?
awesome video! would this apply to carburetor models, in specific The Golf mk1 1300
Lamb_Chop007 it would be very similar. But you’d have to get the signal from the hall sender which is super easy to do. See the following link. www.cabby-info.com/Files/AdjustingTheTiming.pdf
My car came with a kill switch to the fuel pump. Any idea how I would I go about setting correct prime at 6 btdc when it primes manually with the switch? Thanks
Hello awesome videos I just got a free 89 cabriolet automatic I noticed that the tyranny doesn't have that green plug on it is that normal? And will you ever do a fuel pump video thanks keep up the good work !!!!!
Automatic transmissions are a bit different from manual transmissions...I am not exactly sure where the plug in those is honestly. I’ve only worked on manual cars.
Fuel pump video, yes eventually. Not sure when though. So far mine are working well and I hope to keep it that way!
Thanks for the kind words. I wish you luck with the car!! They are a ton of fun and relatively easy to work on. Keep an eye out for my rear suspension video coming out next week
@@OlisGarage thank you!
Hey bro, would it be possible for you to guide me to set up the timing on my 2001VW polo classic 1.6 please.
Hi is there any way you could make a video of this on a automatic transmision? The timing marks arr way different
I drive a MK2 Scirocco GTX 1.8 DX 8 valve 1987 in the UK. I believe this video works for my car and I will be doing this to check if my timing is correct. Where is the video for the timing belt change and and set-up couldn't find on your list 👍
I haven't filmed the timing belt replacement yet, but I will be filming it fairly soon!
@@OlisGarage bro we need your expertise and attention to detail. I understand you're a busy man but seriously can't wait much longer as your video's serve novices like me good. So many people can benefit from your explanations and how you cover all the video angles in good clarity absolutely paramount. I'm looking forward to your timing belt video. Just to mention I drive a 1987 MK2 Scirocco GTX in the UK 1.8 DX 8 valve.
nice
Hi I am from south Africa I have a 1.6 carb golf 1 having problem with car switching of while running .what can I check
Nice video! Question, why not just set the engine at the 6 degree mark and then rotate the distributor until you hear the prime?
No reason you couldnt do that, but I think that only works if the engine is already retarted in timing. Otherwise it primes early and I’m not sure if rotating it back would make it prime again.
Just make sure you check the timing again by rotating the engine after you think you have it set.
hi, i am trying to understand the method you follow. not understanding english very well i am trying to understand. in the first phase, align the camshaft, distributor, and crankshaft with the references. in the second phase, advance the distributor by 6 degrees always on the references. did I get it right? thanks Stefano
I have a Vw1994 2.0 liter engine which has a distributer issue. Is it exactlly the same as this timing adjustment
I have the same with the same engine but that consuming a lot of fuel (automatic transmission) what can be the causes?
Hi, I am disassembling the timing belt of my Golf, it seems to me that the reference of the pulley that is mounted on the crankshaft does not come back.
Do you have an assembly diagram for the golf gti mk2 digifant 2?
I have to loosen the 19mm bolt you use to turn the crankshaft could you tell me how to do it?
Could I put the car in first gear and then loosen it with a lever? I wouldn't want to ruin something, can you help me?
Quick question if your fan belt snap does the timing needs to be set again thanks for the video.
These cars don’t have a fan belt
Hey oli! Would you have any idea as to why the buzzing isn’t occurring no matter which direction I crank the motor? Every Mark is on point. And I’ve passed the notch forwards and backwards plenty of times. What could it be? P.s. Did you ever make a video of adjusting the timing belt like you mentioned at 2:36?
Justin Azpeitia try using a multimeter as discussed here. cabby-info.com/Files/AdjustingTheTiming.pdf
I have not gotten around to making that video yet. I changed the timing belt on the vehicle before I started filming repairs. But, I’ll film it eventually. Once I do I’ll make sure to include it as a banner on top.
Oli's Repairs Thanks! I only mentioned the timing belt because It feels even though all marks aligned, I’m off. When I finally heard the fuel pump buzz nothing was even close to their mark. About 1/4 turn more on the crank after the 6DBTDC mark on the flywheel. I backed it up and kept trying but I was never able to get it to prime again. Anyway thank you so much for the advice! These videos are a Masterclass, put together incredibly well. You have more than a few fans here in Oregon my friend, Cheers!
Justin Azpeitia aaahhhh you might be a victim of an improperly installed flywheel. Usually they are off by 1/3 of a revolution if they are installed improperly.
I would recommend trying to put the engine at TDC by looking at the mark on the cam gear and just eyeballing the distributor (the notch on the housing will indicate if you’re close to TDC or not).
Once you’re pretty close to TDC via the cam gear and distributor, turn the engine back 1/8 turn or so. Place car on run. Slowly turn engine forward watching the CAM GEAR (remember we think that the flywheel is off). See if the pump primes with the cam gear at TDC. Yes I know TDC and 6*btdc aren’t the same. But they are darn close enough for this test.
If you do find that the flywheel is installed improperly and you want to time it properly, you have to pull the trans. It isn’t a bad job. But it isn’t particularly fun either.
Thank you so much for the kind words!! I’ve learned a lot already about video stuff, and hope to keep improving.
Oli,
Again, thank you for all the videos. I replaced all my belts last weekend. Today I took the car for a drive and it felt sluggish. I adjusted the cam timing by one tooth and went to adjust the ignition timing. The fuel rail primes at like 30 degrees past TDC. I adjusted it and the car wont start. The timing mark on the flywheel is accurate, I checked.
Any suggestions?
I would make absolutely sure that everything is at top dead center. There is no “the car runs bad let’s just adjust the belt”. Make sure you set them right the first time.
Put the distributor also to top dead center (rotor aligned with the little mark in the distributor casing).
From there it will run. Then you just have to use my method to time it to fire 6* BTDC.
@@OlisGarage thanks oli. I replaced my distributor rotor as it felt fairly loose on the shaft, the new one is much more snug. The reason I adjusted the belt was that the intermediate shaft was off by a tooth because the rotor was vague, leading to the timing being pretty poor.
I followed your suggestion and put everything back to tdc. The car is running again.
Hi there,
Do you know where and how to find the timing marks on a 1990 Jetta Gli 16v engine 2.0 9A Motronic?? Looking everywhere but no much videos out there.
Unfortunately I do not. I am not familiar with 16V engines.
You need a g60 valve cover :D !
That’s a good thought...I think I’m going to start looking. I finally have a brown Wolfsburg steering wheel that didn’t cost an arm and a leg.
@@OlisGarage Ive solved oil leaks with aluminum cover. It has better heat transfer, and also remove need for tiny plastic near upper timing pulley. Youll need different threads that come with new rubber gasket 20$ maybe.
Never messed with a gas 8v but i just got a 80 pickup with gas 8v stock engine with cis. Just wondering how does the timing sync with the fuel pump to turn it on at tdc? I thought all cars just turn the fuel pump on automatically once key is in on position.
Mine is an 84 with CIS and it worked just fine.
The fuel pump should come on for 5 seconds when you turn the car to run. If you stall the car while driving, the fuel pump should stop a few seconds thereafter. That’s a safety feature so that in the case of an accident it doesn’t dump fuel into a potentially burning engine.
If your fuel pump doesn’t behave as described above, then it sounds like you’ll need a replacement fuel pump relay
Will this work on the 16v engines?
Hi,
Why did you have to move the flywheel 3 times? Did it move every time previously you adjusted?
I got confused.
I moved the fly wheel to check timing.
It wasn’t timed. So I adjusted the timing and moved the flywheel to check the adjustment.
@@OlisGarage I understand you moved it to adjust timing but my confusion it's why did you moved it 3 times. Did not get timed the first time?
@@a.r.1066 correct. At 6:06 it was timed a little early. So I corrected it by turning the distributor. Then I checked twice.
Are you going to make a video on dynamic timing? Just curious. That's something I also need to do.
I definitely will. Just haven’t gotten around to it yet.
@@OlisGarage thanks!
any way to test an ICM on an '88 Golf MK2? Lost spark. Replaced entire distributor assembly with hall sensor, and coil. Still no sparky
Ooh yes that sounds suspiciously like the icm. Send me an email and I might be able to give some pointers. olisrepairs at gmail
Heyy Oil from Turkey. what İf we do the same method on the Golf Mk1 1.3 Gas. I wanna try but little scary. And why you turned the engine for 3 times. isn't it enough for 1 times
I turned it the first time to check, timing was off. Then I adjusted, turned to check. Then I turned one more time to make sure nothing moved when I tightened the hood down clamp.
i dont seem to have a top dead center mark on my wheel, what to do now?
Do you have a video on how to remove the fuel injectors ?
Not yet
I heard you say this works for mk2 golfs, so I'm assuming this also works for mk2 jettas, too? I know they had the same engine choices with the GLI/GTI and GL. I have a mk2 jetta gl 1.8L and it's timing is a little off. I have a bentley manual but videos are easier to understand.
Absolutely. Works for most 1.8L cars.
I’m going to eventually make a video that does it exactly how the Bentley says.
This method works stupid well though and is so easy.
@@OlisGarage Thanks a ton! I just wanted to make sure before I went ahead with it. I'll be looking out for the other video in the future.
I’m turning the crank pulley to the top dead center mark and looking through the inspection hole with the switch on to see if I could get the buzz sound and hear the fuel pumps prime. No sound at all. My fuel pumps are not working. Seems to me like I’m not getting any signal from the ignition to power the pumps. What could be the problem? Any help would be greatly appreciate it. By the way you have awesome videos. 👍🏻
Install your horn relay into the fuel pump relay spot and see if they work.
Horn relay will turn pumps on with key on. This is not a safe way to drive the vehicle, but a great way to test ONLY.
I pulled the pumps relay to definitively rule out the relay being the issue. I applied power and ground and got the relay to click. Then I tested the other connections for continuity and it had continuity. To double check the relay, I applied power to the pin and used a test light on the other connection and the test light lit up while being grounded. That’s why I didn’t think the relay would be bad. But I took your advice and put the horn relay and it started right up. So that means I have a bad pump relay even though it tested good ?
@@gregoryacevedo2940 correct, pump relay is bad.
It’s a more complex relay. It stops the fuel pumps 5 seconds after it senses the engine not running.
Thanks a bunch. What brand of pump relay do you recommend and where can I get it. If I’m not mistaken it’s a 4 pin relay right ?
@@gregoryacevedo2940 I think it’s 5. 4 plus the signal if the engine is running. Honestly…whatever isn’t China special and priced well. Fcpeuro has one for $6
Hi Oli, I'm trying to set the timing on my '87 Cabby, I'm struggling to get the pump to prime at 6 deg BTDC, it's priming at about 15-20 deg BTDC, how do I delay the priming to 6 deg BTDC? Thanks, Ben
just turn the distributor a tad as I outlined in the video
@@OlisGarage when I turn my distributor the fuel pump timing doesn’t change strangely
Maybe it's a dumb question, but won't the lack of centrifugal ignition advancing mechanism (i don't know what it's called professionally) which might be already at work at idle speed make this method inaccurate?
Good thought. I am not absolutely certain, so I’ll have to check it with a timing light. But my 1984 has been running super well (timed with this method), so that is why I think this method also works on the cars with a vacuum advance. Well, I’ll be sure to film a video on it somewhat soon!
Could you do a video on how to set all timing at once?
Yes I need to make a video on that. It might be a little while though.
@@OlisGarage thank you. I’ll be waiting for that, for my timing is all fucked ahaha.
I have a cabriolet 1987 the car dont have power when start runing
I’m trying to do this but my Mk2 has an aftermarket fuel pump that’s wired directly to the fuel pump relay or something because as soon as the keys on, the pump is on so I’m stuck
Most likely someone replaced the fuel pump relay with a horn relay. Just buy a fuel pump relay. The other option is to measure the Hall effect signal from the distributor with a multimeter. The brown wire is ground. One of the other two wires goes to 12v when ignition should occur.
I would 100% get a proper fuel pump relay. If that doesnt fix the issue, message again and we can go from there :)
When you say set the car to start, do you have the starter disconnected so it doesn't turn the engine over?
Andreas Dinesen no I just turn the key to the run position
Everything I did is exactly as I did it in the video. I’m trying to avoid doing the “behind the scenes” boring stuff off camera because that’s sometimes what people need to see.
No starter was disconnected in the making of this video!! Haha
I have a friend that has a 1993 cabriolet like yours. He took the ECM out and doesn’t know what he did with it. Anyway he’s giving me the car but I kinda don’t know anything about these cars and don’t know were to start. Any ideas 💡 Thanks Gregory
Gregory Acevedo you have an engine control unit and a separate ignition control unit on these vehicles. Not sure which you’re talking about. Either way, first step will be to source one used. The Bentley repair manual for these cars is also a must have for people who aren’t familiar with them
Oli's Repairs Where are the location for each one. Do you know any sources. And how much would a fair price would be for the ecu or icu. Thanks
Gregory Acevedo both are in the rain tray covered by a fragile piece of plastic. Honestly price wise..not sure. Never needed one. Keep an eye out on eBay or your local junk yard.
Oli's Repairs. Thanks I will start looking for one on ebay or junkyard but without the ecu part number it going to be a bit difficult. I was just on eBay and I’ve seen a few for the same year as my friend but with different part numbers.
Hey Oli...my cabby runs perfectly fine, but I noticed when I tried to line up the timing marks, the cam mark did not line up when the engine is at TDC any suggestions why they don't line up? Again car runs perfectly fine.
Turn the crank another 360 degrees. Then it will line up.
The why: Crank pulley is small, can pulley is large. Think back to your bike. Small sprocket at the feet and large sprocket at the wheel meant your feet turned really fast and your wheel slowly.
@@OlisGarage another thing...my cam pulley does not have the O.T letters it just has the dot, but the dot is in front of the pulley not behind it like you show in the video. Any particular reason why is in the front and not behind the pulley?
@@fernandorangel9412 maybe someone installed it incorrectly at some point? But it shouldn’t really matter. Especially if it runs well already. Then you can just check to make sure your timing is good. I’d suspect it to be perfect or very close. If it’s a tad off, then adjust it.
You’re doing it right by noticing that it can’t need huge adjustments if it already runs.
As you saw in this video, the timing was really close and just needed a very fine adjustment
@@OlisGarage I figured out what was the problem...I was looking for the timing mark in the front, but I guess my was in the back!!! mine does not have the OT mark with letters like yours, but at the same time it does have the plastic part that says OT that's why I kept thinking that was the only way!
thank you so much for taking the time to reply! I successfully timed my other cabby.
started the car does not go above like maybe 5mph any ideas why that's happening?
I watched your video, and tried adjusting the ignition on my 84’ jetta mk2.. I did exactly what you did, but when I start the car it won’t stay on. I constantly have to press on the gas pedal for the engine to not stop. What do I do? And also the timing belt doesen’t have the «OT» mark.. What should I do so the car stays on? I also have an ignition timing light, but don’t know how to use it..
You messed up the timing then.
If it was running well before, then you should only have to make tiny adjustments if any.
@@OlisGarage No it was running kinda ok before the carburettor was changed. Now my car doesen’t have the original carburettor. After it was changed, the car wouldn’t stay on and running, it could be driven but needed to press the gas constantly, and for example if i were to stop at a intersection the car would die so i had to dump the clutch to make it start, or i had to turn it on manually.. I got told to use a timing light but I dont know how to, and your method looked easier.. Also in the ‘hole’ where im going to look for the marks, There is two ‘marks’.. Its the one that looks like an arrow (indent) and theres one that is painted on i think, a white mark.. Which one am i going to look for?
9:10 Rooster crow youre welcome
Haha!! Good ear. I’m pretty sure you can hear the rooster in another video or two, though I can’t remember which ones.
You don’t realize how much they crow until you’re editing videos. At least that was my experience.
Does this work for automatic transmission also?
RICHARD GTZ yes, you just have to find the timing mark on the flex plate. But it’s the same
My cab has a ex engine with a mechanical fuel pump. Is there a way to also do this without timing licht?
I am honestly not sure. I am not familiar with the ex engine unfortunately
why does that distributor not have a vacuum advance ?
The digifant cars didn’t have a vacuum advance distributor. I couldn’t tell you the theory behind why though.
to check that the timing belt is mounted correctly, do I have to check the signs as in the first part of the video? i have a golf mk2 8v GTI pb. to how many degrees do I have to adjust the advance of the car?
If you car was running before, then it’s most likely mounted correctly. But yes, I always recommend checking as I outlined in the video. I imagine your vehicle is 6 degrees BTDC. Does your fly wheel not have the timing mark before the TDC mark?
@@OlisGarage my flywheel does not have the TDC mark. it only has one mark, in fact I can't understand from the video how I have to do my car.
I would like to understand from the marks if the belt is mounted well and how many degrees I have to anticipate on the distributor.
I made an ear adjustment but I don't know if I did a right thing.
@@oltrig8804 at 2:04 I talk about the two marks on the flywheel. Which of the two do you have?
You will need a manual for your vehicle to know the number of degrees. For all 8V VW in the USA that I know of, it was 6 degrees before top dead center, as I again mention at 2:04 in the video.
@@OlisGarage i can't understand some things even for the english language. to align the camshaft I have to take the Mark to the right of the central one on the flywheel and make it coincide with the v mark ..... then I have to make the references on the camshaft pulley coincide. as for the distributor when I go to put it in line ... it would be the Mark to the left of the central one of the flywheel? ..... and the central one then what is it for?
@@OlisGarage is there a manual for my car where i can check these things? my car is a golf GTI mk2 8v engine code PB
If you allow, show us a video of how to reset the flow meter❤️
Digifant 8v
Rabeea Ali which flow meter? Not quite sure what you’re talking about
Mfa
Explain to us how to reset the flow meter
Rabeea Ali there is no way to reset the mass airflow sensor...
I followed your video, did exactly what you did, but my cam gear always ends up 180* off timing after I crank it to start.. why is this
It’s all tdc, I crank no fire. I go and start from the beginning then my cam gear is out 180* ..
Correct, because your cam gear spins twice for every 1 revolution your crank does.
Your crank pulley is small and your cam pulley is rather large. Think back to your bike. Small gear on the pedals and large gear at the rear wheel made your feet turn fast and the wheel turn slow.
If it's not firing, start with the basics. Are you getting spark? Is it sparking when the #1 cylinder is at TDC? Are you getting fuel?
No starts can usually be diagnosed with those simple questions fairly easily.
anything different on an 82' rabbit conv?
Shouldn’t be!
Is number 1 piston at TDC for this process
Affirmative
The problem I'm having is, if I have my camshaft and my crankshaft all timed up to the appropriate marks and piston is at TDC my mark on the flywheel isn't lining up at all. It's a few teeth off.
Any suggestions
What abput the intermidiate shaft timing notch
Only used when you roughly set the timing after a timing belt swap. Fine adjustment is made with the distributor
When you say to spin the flywheel back an 8th, how far exactly is that?
Doesn’t really matter how far. I just turn it back some so that when I turn it forward, I can turn it forward enough ensuring any potential slack is removed. This theoretically makes the adjustments more accurate.
@@OlisGarage I see, I’ve heard also you need to unplug the coolant sensor and the tubing on the pcv valve, is that true?
@@MFSHARTY good question. This method avoids that. I will make a video on how the service manual says to time these, and that involves unplugging things. This method is beautifully simple and works darn well. Which is why I really like it.
@@OlisGarage ah I see. I’m sure I’m just doing something wrong, but I’m trying to check all the boxes ahaha. Thank you.
@@MFSHARTY is it not working for you?
I’ve purposefully made the videos such that they are as detailed and accurate as possible. If you follow the steps outlined, they will not lead you astray. That’s why I also include torque specs for everything. No one else on RUclips ever uses a torque wrench, which is ridiculous (some do, but it’s rare).
I followed all directions and now it backfires and dies unless I go heavy on the gas!!....do I have to disconnect the blue temp sensor or battery to reset the ignition?
It honestly sounds like it’s now timed incorrectly, especially if it was running well before.
@@OlisGarage Thanks for the reply...I will go over each step...with more detail to see if I miss something on my day off. Regardless of what I find I will let you know, thanks again.
@@markedmartin2115 find a second person to help. Also, if you turned your distributor much from when it ran well, then that indicates also that you did something weird. The fuel pump should be priming right around the top dead center mark (well technically at the 6 degrees before). So just remember that when you look again. Keep it simple and go slowly
@@OlisGarage will do.
@@OlisGarage I measured the timing marks of the transmission and figured out that it is one tooth on the upper cam from the marks of the degrees before TDC for ignition timing.
Man, just a mechanic technic for you. You dont need 2 people to check the tdc, just put fifth gear and use One of this 2 options, LIFT One wheel and rotate it, or again put fifth gear, desengage the hand brake and move the car.
In digifant 2 engine, that method is usual not good enough, did you get good results with that method?
Mário Marques thanks for the tip, that’s a good one. Yup really good results. I checked once with a timing light and it was spot on. I’ll make another video with how to use a timing light on this same car. I anticipate it to be spot on.
It’ll just be a while until I film that. So don’t expect it in the next month.
Does this method apply to 1992 MK3 1.4L?
I’m not quite sure. Is the car running right now?
@@OlisGarage No i have replaced hall sensor and car was running fine, took it to work came back home parked it and it would not start after that, scanned it and its giving me hall sensor code no signal . I checked check everything coils, ignition switch etc still same issue so I am wondering if timing can be the issue?
@@VR6Bosnjo probably not timing if you changed nothing.
Is it sparking when you crank it?
@@OlisGarage No spark when I crank it, checked with three coil packs one from working car, and one brand new unit still no spark here is the list of replaced parts
Ignition wires
Spark plugs
Rotor
Distributor cap
Ignition coil
Ignition switch
Fuel pump works
And I am lost right now lol
@@VR6Bosnjo it sounds like the hall sender. You might’ve replaced it with a bad part
Hi Oli, kannst Du mal ein Video machen, wie man beim Golf 2 PN den Zahnriemen wechselt? 0600 694. Greetings from Germany 😃
Zahnriemen Wechsel werde ich machen. Ich bin nur noch nicht dazu gekommen. Aber die Teile habe ich schon bestellt!
Ich bin mir ziemlich sicher dass der PN Motor ähnlich genug zu mein 2H oder JH Motor ist, also sollte mein zukünftiges Video relevant sein.
ok but this is only for injection engines.. i think it should be mentioned in the title of the video, otherways great video
Change pvv valve
Plse Lord Juses Amen
So right now I have my cam timing in line with the TDC mark (the little circle). At the same time, when I'm looking at my distributor rotor, my rotor is pointing towards the dis. housing notch. So does that mean when I turn my crankshaft, does the camshaft TDC, distributor TDC, and flywheel TDC mark line up mean everything is perfectly timed? Or is it that the camshaft and flywheel should line up at TDC, and the rotor lines up to its notch when the flywheel is at 6* BTDC.
I was a bit confused with lining up the rotor to the 6* BTDC mark.
sudoyashi first I made sure the cam and crank lined up TDC. Then turn the engine back about 1/8 turn and then slowly turn it forward.
Watching for the crank 6* Before TDC (BTDC)Mark, slowly turn the engine forward. When the pump primes that’s when it sparks. That needs to occur with the 6* BTDC. (The cam Mark will be pretty darn close to TDC, because the engine is only 6* before)
@@OlisGarage ahh, okay that makes sense, so where the pump primes is where the distributor housing notch should line up with the rotor, right? I think i understand it better, engine was misfiring and so was my brain so I'll try again tomorrow
sudoyashi correct, but the distributor housing and rotor are hard to perfectly line up. That’s why we line up the pump priming (due to the signal from the hall sender inside the distributor) with the 6* BTDC mark on the flywheel.
Then the notch on the distributor should be pretty aligned with the rotor, though that is just a mere eyeball. It’s not particularly accurate
@@OlisGarage ahh! okay, I was prioritizing the notch i guess too much. the fuel pump didn't prime at that spot when i was turning the engine so I think I just need to reset from cam timing and try it again
sudoyashi it’s pretty much all done with the CRANK timing. Just as shown in the video. The initial TDC of the cam is just to make sure everything is correct (such as if you did a timing belt replacement or something)