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Mark, you are the ONLY photographer on RUclips I'd ever recommend. No obnoxious music, no current RUclips trends, no obnoxious presets or squarespace ads being thrown at us....You're a breath of fresh air and I wish you all the success in the world.
Well, you know why is that? He is working for Sony, he gets paid for making videos like this. Most of the creators have to find their own way to make money on videos, which, surprise, are not cheap to make and they have to earn money to live. Sponsoring and ads gives you the most money on RUclips. I'm not saying that one way or another is bad, I just want you to know why others are forced to do it to be able to continue their work.
Ha Ha - If only Sony would pay me to make these videos ... but they don't. These are not ads for gear they are videos to show photographers how to use the gear they have already purchased.
@@AlphaCreativeSkills Well that's something we'll have to remedy, isn't it? (as pronounced by Sean Connery (or Mell Gibson in Braveheart) 😁 Be as it may, you have convinced me to buy a Sony A7III, a Sony Fe 1.8/20 G and a Sony 70-200 G. So, Sony, give Mark the credit he's due; pay the dude!! ( i sugest a 4000 dollar steady income as compensation for gained revenue by Sony Corp., due to the efforts of mister Mark Galer in the past and in to the future). All say Yea!!
Super video! I have been watching other videos on this subject and every one recommended using bbaf. You make a great case as to why it isn’t needed. I could have saved a lot of time had I seen your video first! I am missing nothing without bbaf on my A7iv, and get the many advantages you mention as well! Thanks for the great video Mark!!
Maybe it's because I have an aR7 II that I don't understand but as far as I know in order to focus traditionally you'd need to aim where you wanted to focus, then compose the shot and then do it again each time. With the back button auto focus I can focus on the subject then if I don't need to focus on anything else, I can just snap away and try different compositions without the need to having to aim, press halfway on the shutter and then composing.
Is using focus tracking a good technique in landscape photography? For example you’re setting up a shot on a tripod and want to get the maximum sharpness on the scene using AF you can use back button focus to get the focus just right and then fire off shots without re-focusing unless I’m missing something. Also helpful in pano shots.
I assign focus hold to AF-on button. When in need to recompose - just hold it. Every other time, including the times I forgot to BBF - the vanilla half-press shutter AF saves the day. Combine that with tracking AF zones (can be assigned to custom buttons to swap quickly or trigger certain zone on hold) and it's milk and butter.
I completely agree with you Mark. As a long time Canon user, BBAF was almost essential on DSLR's, however with the AF on my a9, BBAF is now almost superfluous, as the lock on tracking modes have changed the game. I customise the AF-ON button to do AF in wide or zone tracking so I can switch almost instantaneously from tracking flexible spot S on the shutter button or vice versa depending what I'm shooting.
Moving from Canon DSLR to Sony mirrorless in 2018, I automatically retained back-button AF. But, even without a _Focus Hold_ button on my lenses, I newly found back-button AF hampering more than enhancing the usability. This was especially so once I went from 2015's α7R II-my own entry into Sony-to 2017's α7R III and 2018's α7 III. The newer bodies have additional functions, some ergonomically arguing against back-button AF, and yet, unlike the older body, have a native button for back-button AF, the _AF-on_ button. So while my old sentiments against shutter-button AF lingered, it took me irrationally long to let go of back-button AF, and to customize the _AF-on_ button for a different function. With Galer's lucid analysis, I likely would've switched promptly. But for me, the last straw was far cruder. To shoot from low, whereas a DSLR had compelled squatting or such, Sony freed me just lower the camera and view the monitor. Biomechanically, this position makes it uncomfortable to press my index finger on the shutter button while pressing my thumb on the _AF-on_ button.
You're forgetting the most important and the biggest advantage of BBF over the SBF and that is the fact that with having the regular SBF, your camera will re-focus every single god damn time you half press the shutter button - and as a wedding, sports and events photographer, that's EXTREMELY obnoxious, absolutely damn annoying and makes me miss focus on too many shots - if the camera could read my mind and focus exactly where and when I wanted it to, then I would use the SBF but until that jump in technology happens, I will be using back button to focus, so I guess the answer to the question ''should you use BBF'' depends on whether or not your workflow and subject allow you the freedom of having your camera re-focus all the time or not.
As usual, rock solid explanation from one of the best educators in the field. In the sea of everyone else recommending BBAF I am so happy to find this video that makes sense to my workflow.
Just my two cents. If you adapt old Minolta or Sony A-mount lenses with the LA-type adapters, I think there's still a case to be made for back button focus. I've set it up via the DMF function and start with autofocus (back button), then switch to manual focus (lens/adapter won't allow changing focus without this). After this I "punch in" and adjust critical focus manually. Works for slow-moving subjects like waterfowl, or static birds where you want that catch light in the eye.
Focus speed can't be a priority if using adapted lenses ...unless you are using the LA-EA5. The default focus setup is chosen by Sony because BBAF no longer makes a difference on modern cameras.
@@AlphaCreativeSkills is absolutely right, the priority was price (will be back on the new glass, once I can afford it). The LA-EA5 is an excellent product, and paired with the A IV allows you to focus as fast as possible, given that it's by wire. To tune focus, being able to customize the back buttons (especially the joystick), so that they're within easy reach of my thumb does help. Since the LA-EA5 doesn't find the eye (at least in my use), getting critical focus is slow (at least compared to the new glass) but very doable.
You are so good at clarifying things that can be misleading or wrong out in youtube land. Thanks for that. I gave back button focus a try and I just didn't see the benefits. I still wanted my finger half pressed on the shot buttons so I had a hair trigger. Now I don't feel like I'm missing out on anything.
I use the BBF on the AEL button. This setup feels really good for me. Tried it with the AF on button. Didn't work for me. I'm used to it and won't change, not because it is necessary, but it feels right for me.
For those using BBAF and want to move the focus point with the joystick simply assign its button to AF-On so with one thumb you can move the focus point and use BBAF in the same time. This gives a faster workflow. Focus Standard can be assigned to AF-On button or any other one.
I've perhaps listened to recommendations on what I should be doing too readily without really understanding where the logic for it might have stemmed from so this really helps puts this 'should I, shouldn't I' conundrum to rest for me. Thanks, Mark
I own the a6400 and have always been recommended by my DSLR buddies to use BBAF. Never understood it as it just makes things more complicated by adding another button to push for an otherwise simple process. Thanks for the clean and clear explanation 👍
All great points and for many people this will be simpler. Let me mention why for some creative photographers and photographers that have busy foregrounds or backgrounds back button is likely smarter. With BBAF I am able to ignore busy foregrounds to make creative out of focus washes of color much easier once I have focus on the subject I can recompose lower or higher to include things that would mess up shutter button AF, all of these changes can be done quicker than flipping switches from AF/MF which changes the balance point of the equipment and may create enough movement to spook wary subjects. Secondly by using back button focus I can have available a small lock on type array linked to AEL that may or may not be in the center of the frame and a larger zone or wide non lock on array with the AF on. I don't need to go into the menu to switch AF modes and this gets me through branches or busy foregrounds that regular wide AF would get stuck on. It also prevents the dreaded focus to infinity hunting cycle time waste that the shutter button can sometimes create where its very hard to make it recognize a foreground subject again.
I understand why some users choose Back-button AF over the standard setup (which involves the use of a focus hold button instead of focus start [Af-On] button). I am not hear to preach that users should adopt one workflow over another, just to educate what features would be possible and not possible if the switch is made.
Is there any point or advantage in using Back Button focus on the Sony A7C in recognition of its auto focus feature especially if used in conjunction with the Fn function where it can be customised ??
@@AlphaCreativeSkills I had and still have a Sony a6400 and always used BBF as I found it to be most convenient for me and will continue to use on this camera - however with arrival of my new Sony A7C I see no point !!!
Thx Mark for the video. A few years a go as I started using the A6500 and coming from a Canon system, I was used to practice the back button focus technic. Unfortunatly the A6500 does not support to switch on again the "AFw/shutter" function if I turn the mode dial back to AUTO. That was my workflow at Canon. If my wife wants to take some pictures with the easy automatic program, I turned the dial to AUTO and the focus started to work with the shutter button. At Sony it is off in all modes if its off. But that helped me to get along faster to the capabilitys of the modern AF systems. Now at my A7iii I do not miss anymore the back button focus.
You can set up BBAF with AF-S if you prefer but it isn't the standard BBAF workflow that has been promoted for many years. The idea with the BBAF philosophy is that the focus is moving (AF-On pressed) or it is stopped (AF-On Released). AF-S locks focus without having to release the AF-On button and if the subject starts to move AF-S is not equipped to track that subject in motion.
Your analysis is good with two exceptions. One of the benefits of back button focus is that I no longer mistakenly take pictures during a half press. Also I find touch screen focusing to be a problem since my nose is constantly changing the focus point at the most inopportune time.
I didn't set out to make a video that promoted one workflow over another and my advice to current BBAF users was not to change. I maybe take a picture accidentally once or twice a year. The nose thing is resolved by changing the Touch Pad settings which is outlined in my Touch Operation video tutorial.
I have a weird behaviour on my Sony A7III with the "Regist AF Area tggle" function... Let's say I save a "Flexible spot M" as a "Register AF Area" and I use currently a Wide Focus Area. When I press the toggle button (I programmed AEL), I can switch from one to the other, until now everything is okay. If I move the focus box, let's say in the top right corner, I can switch and it remains on the top right corner. until now it's perfect. But if I reset the box position to the centre (pressing the joystick "Focus Standard button") and then go back to my original Focus Area mode, the "Wide Area" has been turned in a copy of my registred Focus Area (in this case, the "Flexible spot M")... And this is really annoying because then I losing the whole advantage of toggling in between the 2 modes AND, since they are both the same now, I don't know if I'm in the "Original" Focus Area or the registered one, until I try to change, and since we cannot change it on the fly when you are toggled in the registered one, then I have 50% chance to get this annoying message and waste time to cancel the message, toggle again and then change my Focus Area, all this just to be back in the mode I was already on, and didn't ask for any change :/ Any ideas ?
I abandoned registered focus areas and no longer teach it in my eBooks. I have Focus area assigned to C2 and can change the focus area in a second with the camera at my eye. I also don't like assigning toggle functions to buttons that can get accidentally knocked and change the operation of my camera. My Custom buttons that change behaviour (not to access menu options) are all set to Hold.
I don't go as far as to call it a game changer but being able to assign Tracking-On/AF-ON to the AF-ON button I find helpful (A7RM5 don't know about other models). I've looked for a way to assign Tracking-On to the shutter button but so far am unsuccessful. Can it be done?
@@AlphaCreativeSkillsdidn't you say in another patreon post or reply that on the 7RM5 when ever using the shutter button to AF (half press) that tracking is automatically engaged so it's necessary to assign the Tracking-On function to the shutter?
I don't think my memory goes this far back. I think I can only remember the menus of the cameras that came out in the last 10 years. You need to be able to disable AF from the shutter release and assign it to a custom key. I have an Alpha 100 on my shelf and it doesn't have any custom keys, e.g., C1 and C2 so if your A390 is similar it won't be possible.
Thanks for another interesting and valuable lesson. My question is about DMF. In your eBook and other tutorials, you have said that you use manual focus. Wouldn't using DMF be the best of both worlds because you start with auto focus and then can switch to manual by adjusting the focus ring.
I teach all Focus workflows and have DMF assigned to Recall Custom Hold 1 on all my cameras. I use Manual Focus when shooting Landscapes on a tripod but have Single-Shot AF as part of my workflow for shooting landscapes hand-held. I would be interested to know what video tutorial gave you the impression that I don't use DMF.
@@AlphaCreativeSkills Hi Mark, I don't use E-mount cameras just old school ILCA-99M2 and ILCA-77M2. What is the "Recall Custom Hold" you refer to? I know I can set memory recall in my old school cameras but is the Recall Custom Hold something only available with E mount count cameras? Or are you referring to using the Custom (on 77M2) and Custom 1 and 2 (on 99M2) buttons? Thanks in advance for responding.
Hi Mark, a quick question regarding back button focus. I used to use it with my Canon gear, but since adopting Sony equipment in early 2015 I abandoned it. However, I recently bought the 200-600 G lens and have the following observation. I found if I wanted to use focus tracking to follow a surfer, for instance, but I also wanted to take short shutter bursts from time to time while tracking, whenever I released the shutter button it would have to refocus again when I started the next burst -- which sometimes was difficult finding the target instantly at 600 mm. So I ended up switching to BBF so that once the camera locked on, it would continue to track while I took short intermittent shutter bursts. Can you see any drawback to this approach? Thanks.
My advice for photographers who use BBF is to carry on using it if they can workaround some of the issues BBF presents. I raise the three issues in this video. These are moving the focus point while panning or framing a subject on the edge of the frame while focusing, the use of a Recall Custom Hold custom key and Touch Tracking on the A7RlV and A9ll using the Touch Pad.
Really helpful thank you. I was just advised to use BBAF by a professional landscape photographer. He DIDN’T advise disabling the shutter though. This seems like a reasonable compromise on my A7iii as when you have assigned BBAF to a button and depress it it overrides the shutter release AF. So in effect you still have both options available if, as you say, you want to hand it to someone else who may not be familiar with BBAF.
It's not really a BBAF workflow if you leave focus connected to the Shutter Release as it will undo what you have just done by pressing and releasing the AF On button. The idea is that your release the AF-On button when the subject does not move. If the focus is still connected to the shutter release it will engage again when you half-press the shutter release.
Mark on my A7R5 (photo mode) when I half press the shutter button my focus square turns to green and tracks the subject, if I release my finger the focal plane is set and locked. This is great but I can't replicate the same behaviour in video.
The Alpha cameras in Movie mode requires you use Touch Operation (set to Touch Tracking) or assign the AF-On button or the Focus Hold button on the lens to initiate Touch Tracking. These are the sort of setup questions I address in my 600-page A7RV eBook - Patreon.com/markgaler
Great topic Mark. I agree that there is less need for BBF nowadays with the Sony cameras but I personally still use it and don’t necessarily push people one way or the other. As much as I’m a big fan and promoter of Sony’s cameras I actually don’t use a lot of the fancy features for a variety of reasons. I have touch totally disabled as it’s not something I want to be fiddling with in freezing temperatures without gloves on. I also rarely use tracking AF as it it is not always 100% reliable, even though Sony’s implementation is outstanding. I’ve had many cases where, with say the head of a bird that moves around erratically, that the tracking AF loses the object or it shifts to another object and then continues to track as if on the original object when it is actually not. It does do a good job with more simple cases where the object being tracked is distinctive and stays in view. I do love animal eye AF and I’m always promoting its benefit but I also know it’s not something that can always be relied upon so I still move the focus area around as needed just in case. My workflow is that I am always happy if animal eye AF locks onto the eyes before I can but I’m always in the process of doing it myself anyway just in case it doesn’t work.
Yes it is, but you need to be aware the speed of Continuous Focus on the NEX-6 is not super fast. It was the very first Sony camera that featured on-sensor Phase Detect Autofocus. The speed of the AF jumped to warp speed with the A6000 (when Sony perfected the technology) and the reliability of the tracking improved massively with all the A6000 series camera released in 2019 (A6100, A6400, A6600). If you don't photograph things that move quickly then this is of no concern, because the image quality of the sensor has not improved dramatically. Back Button is usually associated with photographers who are tracking quickly moving subjects that start and stop.
I have a sony alpha A7R4, with subject detection = Animal and Focus mode = Continuous AF (AF-C), when i am about to select the Focus Area = tracking (Center/Spot or Flexible spot) it gives me the following error message "This operation or settings not available as follows "Subject detection = Animal" Is this camera meant for wildlife photography or not ? I am surprised this feature is enabled for human but not for animal tracking.
On the A7RIV you have to choose between tracking or animal eye AF. On later models you can have both. You only need tracking if your subject is passing behind obstacles so choosing wide and animal eye-af may suffice.
sorry, I do not understand this vieo. Maybe because it is not translated in dutch en my technical english is not good. I have an @6500 so no af-on back button. What do I have to do to set AF-on ?
I sold my A7RII when the A7RIII was released and the A7RII is now out of production, so Sony Australia would be unable to lend me one. I have trouble keeping up with the support I provide for all the new cameras and lenses Sony release so unfortunately I don't have the time to create learning materials for cameras no longer in production.
Hi Mark, I appreciate that you're very busy, if you or anyone else could help I would be very grateful. Has anyone else found that with the A7R4 in the studio, using flash, there's a significant delay in the shutter when using AFC and eye AF with tracking, live view off? The same setup in ambient light has no delay? Using AFS Single point, no eye AF, in the studio with flash, live view off, there is also no delay.
Addition to post : With eye AF turned off, but set to activate by the AEL button, the problem does not occur. So the combination that causes the fault is : live view off, AF-C, eye AF on.
Switching between memories on the Shoot Mode dial can do this depending on what settings are registered to each Memory. Settings that are only available in the JPEG format are 'greyed out' if the Raw file format is selected. This means that they are not available and therefore cannot switch the camera from Raw to JPEG
@@AlphaCreativeSkills Thanks for the reply. I only shoot RAW. I run into this problem when I try to follow your instructions. Everything seems OK until I bring the files to Lightroom and discover that they are Jpegs.
Hi Mark, I primarily shoot birds and have been using BBAF. Initially I had configured the AEL button to quickly change from shooting still birds to shooting them in flight. I learnt this from you and it really came handy. However, now that have grown comfortable with BBAF, I am struggling to use my thumbs for both autofocusing and holding my AEL button to quickly change the settings. I have missed a lot if shots when the bird is ready to take off due to this issue. How do I fix it?
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focus hold on lens is not to fix the focus on one point, and move the camera without loose the focus on the previous point i focused ? sometimes is hard to mee to understand what you said. i'm not english language nativ :)
I have an issue where I have the a7III set up to BBAF which works great in the photo modes. But in movie mode the camera still auto focus when pressing the shutter button down. Annoying when the shot is set up and then the focus changes when you start recording. I know I can use the video record button on the back but I prefer using the shutter button to start recording.
Hi Mark - thanks for your great video. I've just upgraded to an A7C from an A7. I shoot mostly astro, so on my A7, I set MF mode, which allowed me to manually focus. A nice feature was that if I pressed the AF/MF button, it would auto-focus the image. On my A7C, I'm no longer able to do this. The AF-ON button doesn't work when in MF mode. I can find no way to replicate this very useful A7 behaviour. Do you know if there is a way to do this on the A7C?
This might not be the topic but I would like some knowledgeable and objective advice. I am on a budget and my lenses are all A-mount. I use an Alpha 68 body. Would you consider an Alpha 77ii as a real upgrade knowing I can’t afford an Alpha 99ii? What would your best advice be?
@@AlphaCreativeSkills But as a Sony ambassador, I would imagine you know of them. So, for a person on a budget with a fine set of A-mount lenses, what would you recommend as an upgrade?
I thought the idea of BBF mark was you lock focus on the AF-ON button and the metered you’re exposure on it , then the only purpose of the front shutter button is to take the picture ? You don’t mention exposure on either button on video here ?
Having read the manual I have now set the AEL button to lock exposure ! I have also set the shutter button back to default! Now I can lock exposure on whatever I have metered off and lock it . I’ve been using the Canon 1DX mark 2 for a few years and the Sony is a different beast ! I came across you only the other day , your precise videos are superb , particularly on the Sony A7R IV . Thank You
Hi I recently bought a Sony a7iii, I use to used a Back Button Focus un Canon 5D iv, and o locked de exposition pressing the beside button with the same finger, but in Sony when you move your finger the button in order to get focus, the exposition unlock. How can you fix that?. thanks
Hi, I have related question. Tracking mode doesn't seem to work on my A7riv when in manual exposure mode. Is correct and if so, is there a work around?
Tracking mode works on my A7RIV in Manual Exposure mode. Exposure and Focus are unrelated systems so one should not impact on the other. Just double check that you are in Continuous AF (AF-C).
I wish I could talk to you about my focusing problems with the A9. I am now trying to get used to BBF because the shutter focus just goes crazy hunting for the subject and will not hold focus, no matter what mode I'm using. I have tried several and I'm losing hundreds of shots and getting bad focus. They tell me it's not the camera, it's the settings, but I am hating the A9 because I really just want to get the shot without having to change the mode every two minutes. I got this to replace my 7iii and I regret it since. I shoot BIF and wildlife. Got a 15% keeper rate so far. I am thinking of changing to the 7iv for this reason. I am sure you could tell me what I'm doing wrong....
You can indeed, but this is not strictly a BBAF workflow if you have not disabled AF from the Shutter Release. If you have let go of the button assigned to AF-On, a BBAF photographer would not want the shutter release to focus again when pressing the shutter release to take the image.
@@AlphaCreativeSkills ya but use the back button focus just to switch to AF-C quickly whenever there are fast moving subject that need to be track and shoot..normally I will stick to AF-S
Thanks Mark for your great videos. Why do you think you have to set the focus mode to AF-C for BBAF to work? I use BBAF all the time in my Landscape work and it also works in AF-S. mode
It will work in AF-S but it is not the standard setup which underpins the BBAF philosophy. AF-S locks focus and then doesn't move. The idea of AF-C is that it moves all of the time so to stop it moving you just release the AF-On button so you don't have to switch to a Focus Mode that does the same thing.
Creative Styles do not get applied to the Raw files and I am a Raw shooter. Wouldn't you prefer to grade your image with more powerful tools in post rather than to bake in some changes to the JPEG file in-camera?
Biggest advantage of using back button focus, is that you get the feature of One Shot Auto-Focus and Continuous Auto-Focus at the same time. When you want to do one shot AF, just press the BBAF button then release. When you want to do continuous, just press and hold the BBAF button.
This is also the case with the standard setup and using the Focus Hold button - but everything is in reverse, i.e. you press a button to hold focus instead of start focus
@@AlphaCreativeSkills yes, but for zoom lens, can't focus hold using the standard button on the lens while zooming at the same time (especially on parfocal lenses), though you can assign Focus Hold on the AF-On button, I find it rather harder than BBAF.
It’s just muscle memory and what you are use to - I have nothing against BBAF workflows but they offer no advantages on modern cameras for new users who have not yet acquired a muscle memory.
Great. Thank you for that!!!! Really thought as a beginner I have to use bbaf. Otherwise I can’t control the af good enough. But this other technique is so much better.
Hi Mark, thank for your explanation, useful as usual; I'm a BBF user since long time (my genre is mainly nature photography, birds and mammals) I now would like to revert to AF w/shutter button but could you please clarify me no what Hold On button does? Thanks in advance
Are you referring to when I mention Recall Custom Hold 1? This question is answered in my Recall Custom Hold, Memory Mastermind and DMF video tutorials.
The default is Focus Hold which most can use as an alternative to BBAF. I personally set it to Eye AF for reasons outlined in my Eye AF video tutorial. I wasn’t using this video to outline my own workflows.
Wow Mark, where you been all my life? I've been a Sony/Minolta shooter since, well, since before Minolta was bought by Sony and before digital. I found this video after following your link on the Friedman Archives Blog. So my question is do you ever publish anything useful for the Sony ILCA-A99M2 and ILCA-A77M2 users?
Thanks for the positive feedback - I made the switch from the A99 to the mirrorless and started writing resources around this time for the E-Mount cameras.
It is still an efficient workflow for all those photographers who adopted it when AF systems were still quite crude. I think to continue to call game changer, however, would seem to indicate that BBAF photographers can still leverage some AF performance that I cannot when using the modern Sony AF systems on the latest cameras. I have an exceptionally high hit rate of nailing pin-sharp images of rapidly moving targets using the default setup - so the performance difference in workflows is no longer game changing. The ability to target a second subject while tracking another (A9II and A7RIV) is, I feel, the first feature that may make some BBAF sports photographers want to stop and think about their current workflow.
I love this video but back button is not for me. I shoot an a6000 and a 7r2. Because the a6000 does not have many custom buttons it makes it cumbersome to go between the two systems and I want to have a button for af lock in the a6000 . I also shoot lumix point and shoots as well. Furthermorr, having the focus in the shoot button slows the actuation of the shutter. Also, back button focus screws up non photographers when you give them your camera to take pictures of you.
This video has confused me and for that you have a new subscriber. I just stepped into the modern world of Sony's focusing black magic and it's a lot to grasp. I was just about to start trying back button focusing when this video made me stop and think that maybe I just haven't understood and organized all the power of all the new focusing features. Not to say BBAF might not be for me but this video showed me that I have more to think about when figuring out a workflow. Well done.
I don't try to convert BBAF users away from a workflow they have used for years but I also feel compelled to point out there are several features that a newcomer will lose if they adopt a workflow that does not really give them any advantages on a modern mirrorless camera.
@@AlphaCreativeSkills and you did a good job of explaining this. I came across your master class on Sony focusing. Will definitely check that out. I'm can clearly see I'm not making the most of all the focus features.
Fair enough - just so long as you are aware of the problem of moving an AF point while currently focusing on a subject. The Touch tracking on the A9II and A7RIV, while using the Finder, is perhaps the first AF feature that provides a clear advantage to the standard setup - while tracking one subject you can target a second with your thumb and then it jumps to the target subject when you take your thumb off the track pad. As someone who shoots a lot of very fast action with multiple subjects this offers something completely new.
Thank you Mark. Excellent guidelines as usual. I use manual focus on my A/7/3 as I mostly shoot landscapes. Should I switch onto auto focus and just focus stack in editing. It would probably mean that I can select a smaller focal point from different parts of the shot and stack in editing. Your advice is genuinely appreciated. Neville. J.
Though in general I like Mark Galer's info, this one is a bit off I find. For example: Who on earth uses the monitor on the back in sports photography? Touch AF is totally unusable in such situations.
Have your tried touch tracking when using the viewfinder on the A9II or A7RIV? This feature was developed in consultation with Pro Sports shooters and has not been seen on any other camera. Before you knock it I would try it. I am not suggesting holding the camera at arms length and and touching the monitor. I successfully trialed the feature at the Australian MotoGP in 2019. First and foremost I hope people can respect the advice I offer by looking at the photographs I show as evidence.
@@AlphaCreativeSkills Your advice is highly appreciated, liked I stated in my first answer, but I may not always agree:-). I have found your video's very helpful in transferring from Nikon to Sony. My workflow is probably different, though I am also mainly a sports shooter. Shooting fast paced action with long telephoto-lenses through the viewfinder, I can't see how one could touch the monitor to hit a target, while shooting.
What happens is a large orange cross hair appears in your viewfinder as you position your thumb on the touch pad. This is separate from the AF Tracking icon that is following your subject as it is being tracked. On the A9ll with zero blackout it is possible to slide the crosshair to your next target - when you lift your thumb the focus snaps to the new target. It may sound difficult to execute - especially if you are not used to moving the AF point while tracking but with practice it becomes a useful tool for some. I am, however, not out to sell either workflow - just to highlight the differences.
@@AlphaCreativeSkills Appreciate that, you have given really good info. I tried it, but to me BBAF is the more predictable way of starting and controlling AF, though it does take some getting used to. But I agree, the only good workflow is the one that fits your personal style, and there is no better or worse here, just what suits you.
This is a frustrating video. I don't use back button focus and was looking for an explanation of back button focus... but this is really an anti-BBF video.
I am not anti back-button AF (BBAF). The video simply shows how to set up BBAF on a Sony camera and what Sony features a photographer would lose if they chose to adopt BBAF. This is the only video on RUclips, that I am aware of, does this. Every other video shows the merits of BB AF ...and you have probably already watched one or two.
@@AlphaCreativeSkills actually, no i have not watched many about sony BBF. Most are relevant to Canon and Nikon. Truth to tell, I have only recently wanted to learn about BBF - I have relied in auto for much (outdoor events) and DMF. And trust me, i wrote for 5 decades in my business career - busienss stuff, not for publication. And I tried to watch but there was no clear narrative, only a pile of caveats. Again, i have no idea even what BBF is compared to DMF. And I came to digital from the film days, so 4x5s and 2x2s. All manual. Mine is just an honest appraisal. Love to see a clear simple straightforward video. Even one that tells me what BBF is.
@@AlphaCreativeSkillsby the way, most reviewers or at least the majority come from Canon or Nikon. I have been using Sony mirrorless for 12 years or so... and find it rare to see reviews/videos from a Sony perspective. One example is when reviewers suggest that a sony camera does not have touch screen... or that the LED screen is not fully articulatable - but I do all my shooting from the EVF (except for parades when I sometimes hold the camera over the crowd). Anyway, mine is just a suggestion regarding how an honest viewer reacts.
I didn't make a recommendation - I simply outlined both workflows. I clearly stated (twice) that if you were already using a BBAF workflow there was no need to change but that it would be useful to be aware of a couple of features that needed to be considered in order to access them.
@@AlphaCreativeSkills Sir, it was not to criticise or say you didn't. I can't as I have highest respect for your opinions. My point was to highlight that how closely I follow you and when I "differed", which is only this case, I called out.
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Mark, you are the ONLY photographer on RUclips I'd ever recommend. No obnoxious music, no current RUclips trends, no obnoxious presets or squarespace ads being thrown at us....You're a breath of fresh air and I wish you all the success in the world.
Well, you know why is that? He is working for Sony, he gets paid for making videos like this. Most of the creators have to find their own way to make money on videos, which, surprise, are not cheap to make and they have to earn money to live. Sponsoring and ads gives you the most money on RUclips.
I'm not saying that one way or another is bad, I just want you to know why others are forced to do it to be able to continue their work.
Ha Ha - If only Sony would pay me to make these videos ... but they don't. These are not ads for gear they are videos to show photographers how to use the gear they have already purchased.
@@AlphaCreativeSkills Well that's something we'll have to remedy, isn't it? (as pronounced by Sean Connery (or Mell Gibson in Braveheart) 😁
Be as it may, you have convinced me to buy a Sony A7III, a Sony Fe 1.8/20 G and a Sony 70-200 G. So, Sony, give Mark the credit he's due; pay the dude!! ( i sugest a 4000 dollar steady income as compensation for gained revenue by Sony Corp., due to the efforts of mister Mark Galer in the past and in to the future). All say Yea!!
Super video! I have been watching other videos on this subject and every one recommended using bbaf. You make a great case as to why it isn’t needed. I could have saved a lot of time had I seen your video first! I am missing nothing without bbaf on my A7iv, and get the many advantages you mention as well! Thanks for the great video Mark!!
Maybe it's because I have an aR7 II that I don't understand but as far as I know in order to focus traditionally you'd need to aim where you wanted to focus, then compose the shot and then do it again each time. With the back button auto focus I can focus on the subject then if I don't need to focus on anything else, I can just snap away and try different compositions without the need to having to aim, press halfway on the shutter and then composing.
Focus Tracking - aim once.
Is using focus tracking a good technique in landscape photography? For example you’re setting up a shot on a tripod and want to get the maximum sharpness on the scene using AF you can use back button focus to get the focus just right and then fire off shots without re-focusing unless I’m missing something. Also helpful in pano shots.
I assign focus hold to AF-on button. When in need to recompose - just hold it. Every other time, including the times I forgot to BBF - the vanilla half-press shutter AF saves the day. Combine that with tracking AF zones (can be assigned to custom buttons to swap quickly or trigger certain zone on hold) and it's milk and butter.
I completely agree with you Mark. As a long time Canon user, BBAF was almost essential on DSLR's, however with the AF on my a9, BBAF is now almost superfluous, as the lock on tracking modes have changed the game. I customise the AF-ON button to do AF in wide or zone tracking so I can switch almost instantaneously from tracking flexible spot S on the shutter button or vice versa depending what I'm shooting.
Moving from Canon DSLR to Sony mirrorless in 2018, I automatically retained back-button AF. But, even without a _Focus Hold_ button on my lenses, I newly found back-button AF hampering more than enhancing the usability. This was especially so once I went from 2015's α7R II-my own entry into Sony-to 2017's α7R III and 2018's α7 III.
The newer bodies have additional functions, some ergonomically arguing against back-button AF, and yet, unlike the older body, have a native button for back-button AF, the _AF-on_ button. So while my old sentiments against shutter-button AF lingered, it took me irrationally long to let go of back-button AF, and to customize the _AF-on_ button for a different function.
With Galer's lucid analysis, I likely would've switched promptly. But for me, the last straw was far cruder. To shoot from low, whereas a DSLR had compelled squatting or such, Sony freed me just lower the camera and view the monitor. Biomechanically, this position makes it uncomfortable to press my index finger on the shutter button while pressing my thumb on the _AF-on_ button.
You're forgetting the most important and the biggest advantage of BBF over the SBF and that is the fact that with having the regular SBF, your camera will re-focus every single god damn time you half press the shutter button - and as a wedding, sports and events photographer, that's EXTREMELY obnoxious, absolutely damn annoying and makes me miss focus on too many shots - if the camera could read my mind and focus exactly where and when I wanted it to, then I would use the SBF but until that jump in technology happens, I will be using back button to focus, so I guess the answer to the question ''should you use BBF'' depends on whether or not your workflow and subject allow you the freedom of having your camera re-focus all the time or not.
As usual, rock solid explanation from one of the best educators in the field. In the sea of everyone else recommending BBAF I am so happy to find this video that makes sense to my workflow.
Just my two cents. If you adapt old Minolta or Sony A-mount lenses with the LA-type adapters, I think there's still a case to be made for back button focus. I've set it up via the DMF function and start with autofocus (back button), then switch to manual focus (lens/adapter won't allow changing focus without this). After this I "punch in" and adjust critical focus manually. Works for slow-moving subjects like waterfowl, or static birds where you want that catch light in the eye.
Focus speed can't be a priority if using adapted lenses ...unless you are using the LA-EA5. The default focus setup is chosen by Sony because BBAF no longer makes a difference on modern cameras.
@@AlphaCreativeSkills is absolutely right, the priority was price (will be back on the new glass, once I can afford it). The LA-EA5 is an excellent product, and paired with the A IV allows you to focus as fast as possible, given that it's by wire. To tune focus, being able to customize the back buttons (especially the joystick), so that they're within easy reach of my thumb does help. Since the LA-EA5 doesn't find the eye (at least in my use), getting critical focus is slow (at least compared to the new glass) but very doable.
You are so good at clarifying things that can be misleading or wrong out in youtube land. Thanks for that.
I gave back button focus a try and I just didn't see the benefits. I still wanted my finger half pressed on the shot buttons so I had a hair trigger. Now I don't feel like I'm missing out on anything.
I use the BBF on the AEL button. This setup feels really good for me. Tried it with the AF on button. Didn't work for me. I'm used to it and won't change, not because it is necessary, but it feels right for me.
For those using BBAF and want to move the focus point with the joystick simply assign its button to AF-On so with one thumb you can move the focus point and use BBAF in the same time. This gives a faster workflow. Focus Standard can be assigned to AF-On button or any other one.
I've perhaps listened to recommendations on what I should be doing too readily without really understanding where the logic for it might have stemmed from so this really helps puts this 'should I, shouldn't I' conundrum to rest for me. Thanks, Mark
Glad I could help
I own the a6400 and have always been recommended by my DSLR buddies to use BBAF. Never understood it as it just makes things more complicated by adding another button to push for an otherwise simple process. Thanks for the clean and clear explanation 👍
All great points and for many people this will be simpler. Let me mention why for some creative photographers and photographers that have busy foregrounds or backgrounds back button is likely smarter. With BBAF I am able to ignore busy foregrounds to make creative out of focus washes of color much easier once I have focus on the subject I can recompose lower or higher to include things that would mess up shutter button AF, all of these changes can be done quicker than flipping switches from AF/MF which changes the balance point of the equipment and may create enough movement to spook wary subjects. Secondly by using back button focus I can have available a small lock on type array linked to AEL that may or may not be in the center of the frame and a larger zone or wide non lock on array with the AF on. I don't need to go into the menu to switch AF modes and this gets me through branches or busy foregrounds that regular wide AF would get stuck on. It also prevents the dreaded focus to infinity hunting cycle time waste that the shutter button can sometimes create where its very hard to make it recognize a foreground subject again.
I understand why some users choose Back-button AF over the standard setup (which involves the use of a focus hold button instead of focus start [Af-On] button). I am not hear to preach that users should adopt one workflow over another, just to educate what features would be possible and not possible if the switch is made.
For scenario 1 you don't need the BBAF, just focus hold button set to AF-on. For scenario 2 - check Mark's Recall Custom Hold video.
Moving the focus point with my thumb on the screen is critical to a lot of my shots. Thanks for the heads up. Saves me unnecessary experimentation.
Is there any point or advantage in using Back Button focus on the Sony A7C in recognition of its auto focus feature especially if used in conjunction with the Fn function where it can be customised ??
No advantage- you lose the ability to use the touch pad to support AF
@@AlphaCreativeSkills I had and still have a Sony a6400 and always used BBF as I found it to be most convenient for me and will continue to use on this camera - however with arrival of my new Sony A7C I see no point !!!
Thx Mark for the video. A few years a go as I started using the A6500 and coming from a Canon system, I was used to practice the back button focus technic. Unfortunatly the A6500 does not support to switch on again the "AFw/shutter" function if I turn the mode dial back to AUTO. That was my workflow at Canon. If my wife wants to take some pictures with the easy automatic program, I turned the dial to AUTO and the focus started to work with the shutter button. At Sony it is off in all modes if its off.
But that helped me to get along faster to the capabilitys of the modern AF systems. Now at my A7iii I do not miss anymore the back button focus.
Agreed! I've also dropped it from my workflow
Do you really have to set Focus mode to AFC fir bbf to work, I don't find that as it works in AFS perfectly well?
You can set up BBAF with AF-S if you prefer but it isn't the standard BBAF workflow that has been promoted for many years. The idea with the BBAF philosophy is that the focus is moving (AF-On pressed) or it is stopped (AF-On Released). AF-S locks focus without having to release the AF-On button and if the subject starts to move AF-S is not equipped to track that subject in motion.
I’m going to use your setup. I have never seen such wizardry. It’s absolutely amazing.
Your analysis is good with two exceptions. One of the benefits of back button focus is that I no longer mistakenly take pictures during a half press. Also I find touch screen focusing to be a problem since my nose is constantly changing the focus point at the most inopportune time.
I didn't set out to make a video that promoted one workflow over another and my advice to current BBAF users was not to change. I maybe take a picture accidentally once or twice a year. The nose thing is resolved by changing the Touch Pad settings which is outlined in my Touch Operation video tutorial.
Brill Mark
What I found that if I press the multi selector/ joy stick I got Center focus.
Cheers
I have a weird behaviour on my Sony A7III with the "Regist AF Area tggle" function...
Let's say I save a "Flexible spot M" as a "Register AF Area" and I use currently a Wide Focus Area.
When I press the toggle button (I programmed AEL), I can switch from one to the other, until now everything is okay.
If I move the focus box, let's say in the top right corner, I can switch and it remains on the top right corner. until now it's perfect.
But if I reset the box position to the centre (pressing the joystick "Focus Standard button") and then go back to my original Focus Area mode, the "Wide Area" has been turned in a copy of my registred Focus Area (in this case, the "Flexible spot M")...
And this is really annoying because then I losing the whole advantage of toggling in between the 2 modes AND, since they are both the same now, I don't know if I'm in the "Original" Focus Area or the registered one, until I try to change, and since we cannot change it on the fly when you are toggled in the registered one, then I have 50% chance to get this annoying message and waste time to cancel the message, toggle again and then change my Focus Area, all this just to be back in the mode I was already on, and didn't ask for any change :/
Any ideas ?
I abandoned registered focus areas and no longer teach it in my eBooks. I have Focus area assigned to C2 and can change the focus area in a second with the camera at my eye. I also don't like assigning toggle functions to buttons that can get accidentally knocked and change the operation of my camera. My Custom buttons that change behaviour (not to access menu options) are all set to Hold.
I don't go as far as to call it a game changer but being able to assign Tracking-On/AF-ON to the AF-ON button I find helpful (A7RM5 don't know about other models). I've looked for a way to assign Tracking-On to the shutter button but so far am unsuccessful. Can it be done?
If your focus area is one of the AF Tracking options, e.g., AF Tracking: Zone, then yes, this has been possible for many years.
@@AlphaCreativeSkillsdidn't you say in another patreon post or reply that on the 7RM5 when ever using the shutter button to AF (half press) that tracking is automatically engaged so it's necessary to assign the Tracking-On function to the shutter?
Thanks Mark, it was very clear. I was wondering if I need to switch to BBAF but this just settles my dilemma.
I can't seem to work out how to set a back button AF on my Sony a390. Is my model.pf camera too old?
I don't think my memory goes this far back. I think I can only remember the menus of the cameras that came out in the last 10 years. You need to be able to disable AF from the shutter release and assign it to a custom key. I have an Alpha 100 on my shelf and it doesn't have any custom keys, e.g., C1 and C2 so if your A390 is similar it won't be possible.
Thanks for another interesting and valuable lesson. My question is about DMF. In your eBook and other tutorials, you have said that you use manual focus. Wouldn't using DMF be the best of both worlds because you start with auto focus and then can switch to manual by adjusting the focus ring.
I teach all Focus workflows and have DMF assigned to Recall Custom Hold 1 on all my cameras. I use Manual Focus when shooting Landscapes on a tripod but have Single-Shot AF as part of my workflow for shooting landscapes hand-held. I would be interested to know what video tutorial gave you the impression that I don't use DMF.
@@AlphaCreativeSkills Hi Mark, I don't use E-mount cameras just old school ILCA-99M2 and ILCA-77M2. What is the "Recall Custom Hold" you refer to? I know I can set memory recall in my old school cameras but is the Recall Custom Hold something only available with E mount count cameras? Or are you referring to using the Custom (on 77M2) and Custom 1 and 2 (on 99M2) buttons? Thanks in advance for responding.
HI Mark. Does the Sony RX-1- mk-iv have back button auto focus capablity? Thanks Mark. I cannot seen to figure out how to do it on that camera.
Unfortunately I am only familiar with the Alpha cameras and the RX100VII
Hi Mark, a quick question regarding back button focus. I used to use it with my Canon gear, but since adopting Sony equipment in early 2015 I abandoned it. However, I recently bought the 200-600 G lens and have the following observation. I found if I wanted to use focus tracking to follow a surfer, for instance, but I also wanted to take short shutter bursts from time to time while tracking, whenever I released the shutter button it would have to refocus again when I started the next burst -- which sometimes was difficult finding the target instantly at 600 mm. So I ended up switching to BBF so that once the camera locked on, it would continue to track while I took short intermittent shutter bursts. Can you see any drawback to this approach? Thanks.
My advice for photographers who use BBF is to carry on using it if they can workaround some of the issues BBF presents. I raise the three issues in this video. These are moving the focus point while panning or framing a subject on the edge of the frame while focusing, the use of a Recall Custom Hold custom key and Touch Tracking on the A7RlV and A9ll using the Touch Pad.
Really helpful thank you. I was just advised to use BBAF by a professional landscape photographer. He DIDN’T advise disabling the shutter though. This seems like a reasonable compromise on my A7iii as when you have assigned BBAF to a button and depress it it overrides the shutter release AF. So in effect you still have both options available if, as you say, you want to hand it to someone else who may not be familiar with BBAF.
It's not really a BBAF workflow if you leave focus connected to the Shutter Release as it will undo what you have just done by pressing and releasing the AF On button. The idea is that your release the AF-On button when the subject does not move. If the focus is still connected to the shutter release it will engage again when you half-press the shutter release.
Mark on my A7R5 (photo mode) when I half press the shutter button my focus square turns to green and tracks the subject, if I release my finger the focal plane is set and locked. This is great but I can't replicate the same behaviour in video.
The Alpha cameras in Movie mode requires you use Touch Operation (set to Touch Tracking) or assign the AF-On button or the Focus Hold button on the lens to initiate Touch Tracking. These are the sort of setup questions I address in my 600-page A7RV eBook - Patreon.com/markgaler
Great topic Mark. I agree that there is less need for BBF nowadays with the Sony cameras but I personally still use it and don’t necessarily push people one way or the other. As much as I’m a big fan and promoter of Sony’s cameras I actually don’t use a lot of the fancy features for a variety of reasons. I have touch totally disabled as it’s not something I want to be fiddling with in freezing temperatures without gloves on. I also rarely use tracking AF as it it is not always 100% reliable, even though Sony’s implementation is outstanding. I’ve had many cases where, with say the head of a bird that moves around erratically, that the tracking AF loses the object or it shifts to another object and then continues to track as if on the original object when it is actually not. It does do a good job with more simple cases where the object being tracked is distinctive and stays in view. I do love animal eye AF and I’m always promoting its benefit but I also know it’s not something that can always be relied upon so I still move the focus area around as needed just in case. My workflow is that I am always happy if animal eye AF locks onto the eyes before I can but I’m always in the process of doing it myself anyway just in case it doesn’t work.
Is this usable on my good old NEX6?
Yes it is, but you need to be aware the speed of Continuous Focus on the NEX-6 is not super fast. It was the very first Sony camera that featured on-sensor Phase Detect Autofocus. The speed of the AF jumped to warp speed with the A6000 (when Sony perfected the technology) and the reliability of the tracking improved massively with all the A6000 series camera released in 2019 (A6100, A6400, A6600). If you don't photograph things that move quickly then this is of no concern, because the image quality of the sensor has not improved dramatically. Back Button is usually associated with photographers who are tracking quickly moving subjects that start and stop.
I have a sony alpha A7R4, with subject detection = Animal and Focus mode = Continuous AF (AF-C), when i am about to select the Focus Area = tracking (Center/Spot or Flexible spot) it gives me the following error message "This operation or settings not available as follows "Subject detection = Animal"
Is this camera meant for wildlife photography or not ? I am surprised this feature is enabled for human but not for animal tracking.
On the A7RIV you have to choose between tracking or animal eye AF. On later models you can have both. You only need tracking if your subject is passing behind obstacles so choosing wide and animal eye-af may suffice.
sorry, I do not understand this vieo. Maybe because it is not translated in dutch en my technical english is not good. I have an @6500 so no af-on back button. What do I have to do to set AF-on ?
Hey Mark can you make video for the A7R2 please
I sold my A7RII when the A7RIII was released and the A7RII is now out of production, so Sony Australia would be unable to lend me one. I have trouble keeping up with the support I provide for all the new cameras and lenses Sony release so unfortunately I don't have the time to create learning materials for cameras no longer in production.
Hi Mark, I appreciate that you're very busy, if you or anyone else could help I would be very grateful. Has anyone else found that with the A7R4 in the studio, using flash, there's a significant delay in the shutter when using AFC and eye AF with tracking, live view off? The same setup in ambient light has no delay?
Using AFS Single point, no eye AF, in the studio with flash, live view off, there is also no delay.
There can be a delay using non-Sony flash or non-Sony trigger (commander). AF-C is not recommended in dark studios (see my low light video tutorial).
Addition to post : With eye AF turned off, but set to activate by the AEL button, the problem does not occur. So the combination that causes the fault is : live view off, AF-C, eye AF on.
@@AlphaCreativeSkills Thanks Mark, will do!
What settings, other than File Format, cause the camera to switch image format from RAW to JPG?
Switching between memories on the Shoot Mode dial can do this depending on what settings are registered to each Memory. Settings that are only available in the JPEG format are 'greyed out' if the Raw file format is selected. This means that they are not available and therefore cannot switch the camera from Raw to JPEG
@@AlphaCreativeSkills Thanks for the reply. I only shoot RAW. I run into this problem when I try to follow your instructions. Everything seems OK until I bring the files to Lightroom and discover that they are Jpegs.
Check each Memory setting to make sure you have Raw and not JPEG - overwrite the setting if you find one that is still JPEG.
Hi Mark,
I primarily shoot birds and have been using BBAF. Initially I had configured the AEL button to quickly change from shooting still birds to shooting them in flight. I learnt this from you and it really came handy. However, now that have grown comfortable with BBAF, I am struggling to use my thumbs for both autofocusing and holding my AEL button to quickly change the settings. I have missed a lot if shots when the bird is ready to take off due to this issue. How do I fix it?
I now offer personal technical support and assistance for Sony Alpha users from my Patreon Page for as little as little as $10 per month. A $10.00 one-month membership will give you access to learning support files including 15 eBooks, 22 member-only 1-hour seminars + my Alpha Q&A forums. There is no commitment beyond the first month. www.patreon.com/markgaler
focus hold on lens is not to fix the focus on one point, and move the camera without loose the focus on the previous point i focused ? sometimes is hard to mee to understand what you said. i'm not english language nativ :)
I have an issue where I have the a7III set up to BBAF which works great in the photo modes. But in movie mode the camera still auto focus when pressing the shutter button down. Annoying when the shot is set up and then the focus changes when you start recording. I know I can use the video record button on the back but I prefer using the shutter button to start recording.
@@marvelousmarv4268 I'm interested to hear your findings.
Hi Mark - thanks for your great video. I've just upgraded to an A7C from an A7. I shoot mostly astro, so on my A7, I set MF mode, which allowed me to manually focus. A nice feature was that if I pressed the AF/MF button, it would auto-focus the image. On my A7C, I'm no longer able to do this. The AF-ON button doesn't work when in MF mode. I can find no way to replicate this very useful A7 behaviour. Do you know if there is a way to do this on the A7C?
This might not be the topic but I would like some knowledgeable and objective advice. I am on a budget and my lenses are all A-mount. I use an Alpha 68 body. Would you consider an Alpha 77ii as a real upgrade knowing I can’t afford an Alpha 99ii? What would your best advice be?
I have never owned an A68 or an A77ii and they are not available to purchase in Australia any longer.
@@AlphaCreativeSkills But as a Sony ambassador, I would imagine you know of them. So, for a person on a budget with a fine set of A-mount lenses, what would you recommend as an upgrade?
I thought the idea of BBF mark was you lock focus on the AF-ON button and the metered you’re exposure on it , then the only purpose of the front shutter button is to take the picture ? You don’t mention exposure on either button on video here ?
Exposure is a seperate issue to focus and is not necessarily locked when you press either button.
Having read the manual I have now set the AEL button to lock exposure ! I have also set the shutter button back to default! Now I can lock exposure on whatever I have metered off and lock it . I’ve been using the Canon 1DX mark 2 for a few years and the Sony is a different beast ! I came across you only the other day , your precise videos are superb , particularly on the Sony A7R IV . Thank You
Thanks for the positive feedback.
Hi I recently bought a Sony a7iii, I use to used a Back Button Focus un Canon 5D iv, and o locked de exposition pressing the beside button with the same finger, but in Sony when you move your finger the button in order to get focus, the exposition unlock. How can you fix that?. thanks
Use Lock On AF or stop using Back Button AF as there is no advantage to this workflow when using a Sony Camera.
Hi, I have related question. Tracking mode doesn't seem to work on my A7riv when in manual exposure mode. Is correct and if so, is there a work around?
Tracking mode works on my A7RIV in Manual Exposure mode. Exposure and Focus are unrelated systems so one should not impact on the other. Just double check that you are in Continuous AF (AF-C).
I wish I could talk to you about my focusing problems with the A9. I am now trying to get used to BBF because the shutter focus just goes crazy hunting for the subject and will not hold focus, no matter what mode I'm using. I have tried several and I'm losing hundreds of shots and getting bad focus. They tell me it's not the camera, it's the settings, but I am hating the A9 because I really just want to get the shot without having to change the mode every two minutes. I got this to replace my 7iii and I regret it since. I shoot BIF and wildlife. Got a 15% keeper rate so far. I am thinking of changing to the 7iv for this reason. I am sure you could tell me what I'm doing wrong....
I run a support group at Patreon.com/markgaler
Thank you for your great video! What are your setting for bif with the a7R4?
I outline my action settings for the A7RIV in my free-to-download eBook from my website.
@@AlphaCreativeSkills Thank you again!
seems like my a6000 can have both world! I retain the shutter half press focus but at the same time I can use my bbaf
You can indeed, but this is not strictly a BBAF workflow if you have not disabled AF from the Shutter Release. If you have let go of the button assigned to AF-On, a BBAF photographer would not want the shutter release to focus again when pressing the shutter release to take the image.
@@AlphaCreativeSkills ya but use the back button focus just to switch to AF-C quickly whenever there are fast moving subject that need to be track and shoot..normally I will stick to AF-S
Thanks Mark for your great videos. Why do you think you have to set the focus mode to AF-C for BBAF to work? I use BBAF all the time in my Landscape work and it also works in AF-S. mode
It will work in AF-S but it is not the standard setup which underpins the BBAF philosophy. AF-S locks focus and then doesn't move. The idea of AF-C is that it moves all of the time so to stop it moving you just release the AF-On button so you don't have to switch to a Focus Mode that does the same thing.
Thnx for the video, Mark. Can please make a video on working with Sony's "creative styles" in Lightroom or Capture One?
Creative Styles do not get applied to the Raw files and I am a Raw shooter. Wouldn't you prefer to grade your image with more powerful tools in post rather than to bake in some changes to the JPEG file in-camera?
@@AlphaCreativeSkills Well, I do shoot RAW only. I love however that I can apply in post the manufacture's unique color style (like FUJIFILM allow).
Biggest advantage of using back button focus, is that you get the feature of One Shot Auto-Focus and Continuous Auto-Focus at the same time.
When you want to do one shot AF, just press the BBAF button then release.
When you want to do continuous, just press and hold the BBAF button.
This is also the case with the standard setup and using the Focus Hold button - but everything is in reverse, i.e. you press a button to hold focus instead of start focus
@@AlphaCreativeSkills yes, but for zoom lens, can't focus hold using the standard button on the lens while zooming at the same time (especially on parfocal lenses), though you can assign Focus Hold on the AF-On button, I find it rather harder than BBAF.
It’s just muscle memory and what you are use to - I have nothing against BBAF workflows but they offer no advantages on modern cameras for new users who have not yet acquired a muscle memory.
Great. Thank you for that!!!! Really thought as a beginner I have to use bbaf. Otherwise I can’t control the af good enough. But this other technique is so much better.
Great videos!! Very educational....I recently bought an RX10 M4 , do you have educational video’s of that model?🤔
I have written a free-to-download RX100Vll eBook - the menus and sensor are the same.
Thanks Mark, that clears up some issues.
Glad to help
Great topic and explain. Thank you.
Just what I needed to learn! Thanks
Glad it was helpful!
Nuanced opinions explained well, great stuff
Much appreciated!
Thanks Mark, switching back to simple shutter release focus :)
@Anuradha Sarup, I’m thinking of doing the same.....how was the transition back for you? Do you find it better?
@@lauriewahlig2819 Back button have quick sharp exposures and I still use if sometimes but elbow thanks me for not using it too often :)
@@anuradhasarup thank you! Really looking at switching to Mark’s tracking on +AF on with my A1
It felt strange for the first few minutes than was okay :)
Hi Mark, thank for your explanation, useful as usual; I'm a BBF user since long time (my genre is mainly nature photography, birds and mammals) I now would like to revert to AF w/shutter button but could you please clarify me no what Hold On button does? Thanks in advance
Are you referring to when I mention Recall Custom Hold 1? This question is answered in my Recall Custom Hold, Memory Mastermind and DMF video tutorials.
@@AlphaCreativeSkills Hi Mark, thank you for your reply, I was referring the Hold Focus button on the lens body
The default is Focus Hold which most can use as an alternative to BBAF. I personally set it to Eye AF for reasons outlined in my Eye AF video tutorial. I wasn’t using this video to outline my own workflows.
thanks Mark, trying bbaf was on my list of things to do but after watching this video it no longer is.....
absolutely top and factual explanation of the subject
Wow Mark, where you been all my life? I've been a Sony/Minolta shooter since, well, since before Minolta was bought by Sony and before digital. I found this video after following your link on the Friedman Archives Blog. So my question is do you ever publish anything useful for the Sony ILCA-A99M2 and ILCA-A77M2 users?
Thanks for the positive feedback - I made the switch from the A99 to the mirrorless and started writing resources around this time for the E-Mount cameras.
Thank you!
You're welcome!
I love your work Mark, but I would have to say BBF is STILL a game changer, even with these new AF systems.
For me too, also setting custom buttons so you can have different focus areas and other settings ready at the touch of one button.
It is still an efficient workflow for all those photographers who adopted it when AF systems were still quite crude. I think to continue to call game changer, however, would seem to indicate that BBAF photographers can still leverage some AF performance that I cannot when using the modern Sony AF systems on the latest cameras. I have an exceptionally high hit rate of nailing pin-sharp images of rapidly moving targets using the default setup - so the performance difference in workflows is no longer game changing. The ability to target a second subject while tracking another (A9II and A7RIV) is, I feel, the first feature that may make some BBAF sports photographers want to stop and think about their current workflow.
@@AlphaCreativeSkills We just need to evolved and grow a 6th finger.
I love this video but back button is not for me. I shoot an a6000 and a 7r2. Because the a6000 does not have many custom buttons it makes it cumbersome to go between the two systems and I want to have a button for af lock in the a6000 . I also shoot lumix point and shoots as well. Furthermorr, having the focus in the shoot button slows the actuation of the shutter. Also, back button focus screws up non photographers when you give them your camera to take pictures of you.
Another great video! Thank you.
Thank you Mark, for the prompt reply. Robert
This video has confused me and for that you have a new subscriber. I just stepped into the modern world of Sony's focusing black magic and it's a lot to grasp. I was just about to start trying back button focusing when this video made me stop and think that maybe I just haven't understood and organized all the power of all the new focusing features. Not to say BBAF might not be for me but this video showed me that I have more to think about when figuring out a workflow. Well done.
I don't try to convert BBAF users away from a workflow they have used for years but I also feel compelled to point out there are several features that a newcomer will lose if they adopt a workflow that does not really give them any advantages on a modern mirrorless camera.
@@AlphaCreativeSkills and you did a good job of explaining this. I came across your master class on Sony focusing. Will definitely check that out. I'm can clearly see I'm not making the most of all the focus features.
Very helpful! Thanks 🙏
Nice - So much agree!!!
Did you tell how to set it because if so I missed it
I did cover it but in short just turn AF w/ shutter to Off
Great explanation but, I feel comfortable using the BBAF
Cheers
Fair enough - just so long as you are aware of the problem of moving an AF point while currently focusing on a subject. The Touch tracking on the A9II and A7RIV, while using the Finder, is perhaps the first AF feature that provides a clear advantage to the standard setup - while tracking one subject you can target a second with your thumb and then it jumps to the target subject when you take your thumb off the track pad. As someone who shoots a lot of very fast action with multiple subjects this offers something completely new.
Thanks..
Great Bro...
Thanks Mark!
Thank you Mark. Excellent guidelines as usual. I use manual focus on my A/7/3 as I mostly shoot landscapes. Should I switch onto auto focus and just focus stack in editing. It would probably mean that I can select a smaller focal point from different parts of the shot and stack in editing. Your advice is genuinely appreciated. Neville. J.
Brilliant
Thanks - Please subscribe to the channel to support my work.
Though in general I like Mark Galer's info, this one is a bit off I find. For example: Who on earth uses the monitor on the back in sports photography? Touch AF is totally unusable in such situations.
Have your tried touch tracking when using the viewfinder on the A9II or A7RIV? This feature was developed in consultation with Pro Sports shooters and has not been seen on any other camera. Before you knock it I would try it. I am not suggesting holding the camera at arms length and and touching the monitor. I successfully trialed the feature at the Australian MotoGP in 2019. First and foremost I hope people can respect the advice I offer by looking at the photographs I show as evidence.
@@AlphaCreativeSkills Your advice is highly appreciated, liked I stated in my first answer, but I may not always agree:-). I have found your video's very helpful in transferring from Nikon to Sony. My workflow is probably different, though I am also mainly a sports shooter. Shooting fast paced action with long telephoto-lenses through the viewfinder, I can't see how one could touch the monitor to hit a target, while shooting.
What happens is a large orange cross hair appears in your viewfinder as you position your thumb on the touch pad. This is separate from the AF Tracking icon that is following your subject as it is being tracked. On the A9ll with zero blackout it is possible to slide the crosshair to your next target - when you lift your thumb the focus snaps to the new target. It may sound difficult to execute - especially if you are not used to moving the AF point while tracking but with practice it becomes a useful tool for some. I am, however, not out to sell either workflow - just to highlight the differences.
@@AlphaCreativeSkills Appreciate that, you have given really good info. I tried it, but to me BBAF is the more predictable way of starting and controlling AF, though it does take some getting used to. But I agree, the only good workflow is the one that fits your personal style, and there is no better or worse here, just what suits you.
This is a frustrating video. I don't use back button focus and was looking for an explanation of back button focus... but this is really an anti-BBF video.
I am not anti back-button AF (BBAF). The video simply shows how to set up BBAF on a Sony camera and what Sony features a photographer would lose if they chose to adopt BBAF. This is the only video on RUclips, that I am aware of, does this. Every other video shows the merits of BB AF ...and you have probably already watched one or two.
@@AlphaCreativeSkills actually, no i have not watched many about sony BBF. Most are relevant to Canon and Nikon. Truth to tell, I have only recently wanted to learn about BBF - I have relied in auto for much (outdoor events) and DMF. And trust me, i wrote for 5 decades in my business career - busienss stuff, not for publication. And I tried to watch but there was no clear narrative, only a pile of caveats. Again, i have no idea even what BBF is compared to DMF. And I came to digital from the film days, so 4x5s and 2x2s. All manual. Mine is just an honest appraisal. Love to see a clear simple straightforward video. Even one that tells me what BBF is.
@@AlphaCreativeSkillsby the way, most reviewers or at least the majority come from Canon or Nikon. I have been using Sony mirrorless for 12 years or so... and find it rare to see reviews/videos from a Sony perspective. One example is when reviewers suggest that a sony camera does not have touch screen... or that the LED screen is not fully articulatable - but I do all my shooting from the EVF (except for parades when I sometimes hold the camera over the crowd). Anyway, mine is just a suggestion regarding how an honest viewer reacts.
Sir, with all due respect, this is the ONLY recommendation of your that I am not following. Have been using BBAF for long and continuing.
I didn't make a recommendation - I simply outlined both workflows. I clearly stated (twice) that if you were already using a BBAF workflow there was no need to change but that it would be useful to be aware of a couple of features that needed to be considered in order to access them.
@@AlphaCreativeSkills
Sir, it was not to criticise or say you didn't. I can't as I have highest respect for your opinions. My point was to highlight that how closely I follow you and when I "differed", which is only this case, I called out.