There was a firmware update that fixed the issue with the 85mm GM aperture not opening up while focusing. As long as Live View Display is OFF, the lens now opens up all the way to f/2 in both AFS and AFC. That's not fully open, but much better than it used to be originally. This fix was celebrated by the community when it came out for the a7rII, and the newer cameras never even had this issue. But you do have to make sure Live View Display is OFF, otherwise the iris does stay closed while focusing.
Good grief! As a basic photographer using Sony since 2016 I had no idea about this low light focus "problem". Liovong in a part of the world that is more or less bereft of light nine months of the year, using your info I'll probably get a whole lot more photos in focus going forward. Thank you!
Thanks Mark this helped TREMENDOUSLY with my A7RIV in the studio. Lower light caused the focus to "hunt" back and forth. I will use AF-S from now on in low light! Kudos brother!
Actually I just tested it and that does not seem to be the case for me. At very small apertures it will open up a tiny bit in AF-c, but not nearly as wide as in AF-S.
Mark, as usual, you took a complex subject and “illuminated” it in ways, few other teachers on the planet could ever have done. (Pun intended, with illuminated)...thank you for being such an amazing resource for these complex and very new cameras. I will tell you now, I am anxiously awaiting your course on how to use the new 5.0 firmware, then 6.0 firmware for the Sony A9. Cheers, my friend.
Learned my first valuable lessons after coming to mirrorless Sony systems from Nikon DSLRs >_< I was doing some low light photos last night and struggled to focus on moving objects in AF-C at 5.6 . I struggled really bad. putting this into practice will help. Thanks sooo much! I will try some of these tips tonight.
Thanks for the great video Mark. As a Nikon mirrorless shooter I suspect most of the AF-S and AF-C characteristics of the Sony’s apply to the Nikon’s. I just wish Nikon would provide such useful videos.
You are probably correct. Sony don't ask me to make these videos. They are above and beyond what Sony expect me to do as an Ambassador (basically hashtag Sony when I post and speak 6 times a year at Sony events).
I’ve always wondered why my A6x00 cameras sometimes seem so sluggish to autofocus with my fancy Sony/Zeiss 16-70 f4 zoom (at the time pretty much the only upgrade from the lousy kit zoom). And now I know - it doesn’t open up focusing! Grrr, but also yay to at least know! Looks like I need to make a change! Another great MG video.
There are several good standard zooms around now for the A6xxx series cameras. Sony's 16-55 F/2.8 G is very very sharp but does not have OSS so is best suited to A6500 and A6600 owners.
EXCELLENT video tutorial Mark. I had NO idea about several of these items about the Sony aperture breathing to help the AF lock on. Great tips. Now I will need to see if this applies to all my lenses. I wonder if this also happens on the Sigma lenses (probably not?). Keep up the fantastic series of videos. You do SO SO much for the Sony alpha community. Its no wonder Sony chose you to be an ambassador.
Wow. Been shooting a7rII since 2015, understood some things but not a lot of the relationships. I think the use of the image sensor as the exposure sensor is the number 1 thing that is most difficult for DSLR users to transition to. The fact that lenses differ from each other on how the camera body uses them. But the shifting of live view settings to get the most light for focusing was something i wasn't using. Thanks very much!!!!
Thank you for that, Mark. I knew a lot of that, but did not realize about the limitation on the 85mm f1.4. I had a very frustrating time shooting headshots in studio with that lens at f8 just a few weeks ago!
ottawamountainman for that particular assignment I brought the Profoto B1. You’re right, the modeling lamp on that strobe is not amazingly bright, with my Canon DSLR bodies I didn’t even bother with the modeling lights for focusing sometimes - it’s totally different with the e-mount on that front.
I have been enjoying your videos. I have learned a lot about my a7r3. Is it possible that you make a video and share your knowledge about how to shoot a group of people? Like a single line, doubles and so on.
Mark, Thank you so much for this video. It is really helpful. Just recently, I returned from a bird photography shoot at Bosque del Apache, NM and my a6300 was struggling to focus on cranes in AF-C mode in low light. I wish I could know these tricks that time to get more out of my camera. Great video once again for Sony mirrorless shooters. Thank you.
Unfortunately, I have to stay in AF-C since I am mostly shooting dancers at their local events in the evening. Still, I love this video as it reminded me to check my AF illuminator setting to see if that could help. And just in general, this is a great video to better understand concepts behind the Sony camera system. Another well done video, Mark. Thank you immensely!
Thank you, very helpful. I normally shoot outdoors, natural light but occasionally have an indoor low light situation and I was essentially lost. This was a great help, I will use my new knowledge for New Year’s Day party shoot.
Great Video. I still get a lot of noise in my event photography pics from iso 1600 and up. How are you getting such little noise on your pics at these ultra high iso's? Thanks
I was under the impression that in AFC there is a somewhat complex (read perplexing) algorithm at play which depends on the lens used, ambient light, aperture selected and amount of refocusing needed (change in focusing distance). By playing with these factors at studio-style F stops (like F8 or smaller) i can « force » my a7r3 to momentarily open the aperture fairly wide to refocus. But as you stated in the video this is less robust than in AFS. The other work around in studio is using strobes with powerful modelling lights. I tested the focusing accuracy of the Sony FE 50 1.4 (a problem lens in dimly lit studios) at smaller aperture settings using a Godox 400 Pro with modelling light only set to proportional vs a strobe with no modelling light. Needless to say the difference in image sharpness was night and day (pun intended). Great video btw!
Wish I watched this video before last weekends shoot. I was struggling to get auto focus with strobes and the live display would have been great to turn off. Next time! Thanks Mark.
Mark, can you please do a video on the new firmware update in regards to Aperture Drive in AF please. How does this new function work in relation to this video you just put out?
I believe Aperture Drive is a new feature that is available for the FE 400 F/2.8 GM which has a programmable ring that can be used to snap into APS-C mode or move focus. I programmed the ring to snap into APS-C Mode.
Hi sir !.. i have question please ... i want to add all my product image stack in photoshop ..so i want to my Sony A7III camera can take around 15 image automaticaly with all different angel focus ?
Thanks very useful information. I'm looking to move from my DSLR to a mirrorless camera mainly for video features. I was set on a Z6 but once I heard about the lowlight AF problems I've switched to looking at Sony. I'll be honest I'm not 100% happy about doing that but I think it's the right system going forward.
The focus tracking of the A7lll in Continuous AF is much superior that the new Nikon and Canon Full Frame cameras. The eye-AF, dual card slot and bigger battery are also some of the many advantages of the Sony.
I made the switch to Sony while waiting for Canon to go mirrorless, with the realization that Canon would remain a generation or two behind Sony for a few years. Sony's head start will be hard to surpass, so I went directly to the A7R3 & 16-35 f2.8 GM and haven't looked back. Now using other Canon L lenses with it and considering which other Sony lenses to buy. 85 1.8, 50 1.4 Zeiss, Voigtlander APO Lanthar 1:1 Macro on the wish list.
Good information. in low light 24-105/F4 can use it ? i feel F4 not like F1.8 or F2.8.. So how i can use this lens Sony FE24-105/F4 with sony A7R2 body in low light ? Thanks
Thank you soo much for straightening that out and you do it in a great way! I just made the switch from Nikon to Sony and you make the transition easier!
Thankyou for the lovely tips :D Quick question, when shooting wildlife i have often wondered whether i will have more success focusing with a higher shutter speed and high iso or with a lower shutter speed and lower iso? (assuming that the shutter speed is fast enough to freeze the action appropriately offcourse) (or is there no difference as the light is equivalent?)
Thanks. That's a really useful video. I didn't know about the AF-illuminator working with A6500 (and maybe some other cameras) and some of the Sony flashes have a focus-assist LED. I also didn't understand the differences in how AF-S and AF-C acquire focus.
hi i have the alpha 1 camera with the f1,2 50mm prime lens. but in low light it looks like crap. very much horizontal green and red stripes with very very much noise. i cant even shoot a picture with iso 6k. whats wrong with me?
If you are shooting in low light with artificial lights you can use Anti-Flicker for low frequency lights such as fluorescent tubes or Variable Shutter for removing lines created by high frequency LED lighting
Good video Mark and it is the same findings as I have done. I shot low light club events. My biggest problem is stopped down group portraits with flash. AF-S works but is (too) slow. AF-C is useless when stopped down (but works fantastic wide open even with Eye-AF) in these environments so singe person portraits are super easy to get. But the group ones not. The HVL-F45RM I have as well, and it has the LED as you mention, but people don't really like to get it in their eyes. I have dimmed mine down with some layers of printer paper in front if it, but it is still too bright for people that have their eyes tuned in for a dark club. Can you please relay to Sony that we need a low light AF mode that focuses wide open no matter what the shooting aperture is set at. And they can do it in both AF-S and AF-C with PDAF only, we don't need the CDAF fine tuning and we don't care about the potential focus shift, the DOF at f5.6 or 8 will cover all that. And that the EVF will flicker and the aperture will rattle when going back and forth between focusing and taking mode, that we can live with as well, just as long as we can focus with ease. This is my biggest problem actually with using Sony. At times I wonder if I should bring a cheap Canon DSRL just for the group portraits... Thanks!
This is great information. However, this should be standard information provided to every Sony camera shooter. You should talk to Sony to incorporate a link to this video in their user manuals.
So, I am going to shoot fire spinners, which is at night time, with fast to moderate movement, is this video highly applicable?? I have a standards FE 3.5-5.6/28-70 OSS lens.
@@AlphaCreativeSkills I am going to need to.. because the photos were pretty grainy last night. Also, any good recommended videos for adjusting your photos for Instagram?? I posted an astro-photo yesterday and the quality was so bad.. Thank you soul much.
Mark, I have a big issue, next week i need to shoot a beach at night, no lights, 4am, i have a 1.8 lens, but my big issue is focus, do u recommend use MF?
thanks a lot for the infos. i think it's a myth to use a f4 lens in low light - unless you using a tripod or bump up the ISO to max. unfortunately in pitch black situations when you have to use a flash to capture anything, this AF illuminator or focus light on the (sony) flash is quite annoying. i wonder why sony or the other camera barnd still haven't invented something to replace a AF assist light (red pattern) to work in super low light situations.
Very helpful Mark! So is the takeaway for video shooters to shoot wide open in A-mode under very low light? Seems like that's stating the obvious, but I've got plenty of blurry clips where I was chasing little kids around at a dimly lit birthday party.
Just tested a few sony and Sigma EF lenses and they open up even when focussing in AF-C, depending on how much light they are seeing. AF-S opens up the aperture every time
I discuss the use of zebras in my ‘movie settings’ video. I don’t personally use zebras when shooting stills as I monitor the histogram in the EVF and Monitor. I also discuss how to make the histogram appear closer to the Raw view. Highlights are recovered using the Whites slider in Lightroom - but only if Shooting in Raw.
My a6400 focus hunts in broad daylight shooting video. I cannot figure out why. I have it in wide area, shooting landscape, and I did some talking head stuff with landscapes behind person. I cannot figure out why it would focus hunt, it's not a low contrast or low light situation.
Wow thanks for replying to my message. I had the problem in a clip at 2:16 in this video vimeo.com/426454205/144d7ec4ac I did a focus point on my nose but maybe it lost it? For some reason I keep loosing the ability to do eye af / face af and cannot figure out why. It just says "No" on the display. I'm sure it's due to a conflicting setting but cannot figure out which one. There were some additional clips, with the mountains as in 1:00 that didn't seem to get a good focus lock. Those clips all had the green mountains framed like in that clip (not enough contrast?). I'll have to load those up somewhere. Thanks much for replying! I am VERY excited about this camera. I switched from 5d to a6400 as it dramatically decreases size of my equipment. However, it's a bit of a learning curve, I've a ways to go to figure it all out. Spent probably 4 or 5 hours going through tutorials. Still a bit lost with AF.
I will have to check but I think Eye AF arrived on the A6600 so you will only have face detect AF. You may not even have this if you switch Proxy Recording On. Nose is not a good place to lock focus on. AF systems like a high contrast edge so eyes and eyebrows are good. You will also lose your Phase Detect AF (PDAF) if you stop down beyond f/11. This is what is causes your hunting as it moves the camera into Contrast Detect AF which is what does that jumping. Use a Neutral Density filter to increase the aperture in bright ambient light. This will also help to slow the shutter speed down so the video does not look 'choppy'. If you want to use me as mentor while you skill up you can work with me via my Patreon Support site. I am currently working with 160 Alpha users helping their master their craft. www.patreon.com/markgaler
@@AlphaCreativeSkills Thanks! I wondered if it wasn't the aperture. I was having to stop down quite a bit due to all the strong light up there. Then that makes since with the contrast / nose. I'll check out your patreon :) Thanks!
Dear Mark, my A7R III also "breathes open" in AF-C with the 55mm 1.8, but it does it much later (with less light) than in AF-S. Seems that AF-C works better in lower light until it has to open up.
Mark thank you very much for this valuable information. I alway turn off Live view Display when shooting in low wedding reception light! However I shoot roughly close to f2.8 / 3.2 wide. But do I understand correctly that the lens is stoped down during my shooting and Live view effect are electronically simulated when turned off? I originally assumed that turning off the live view display will restore the DSLR behavior!!
With live view Off - the lens is only stopped down while Focus is acquired (your finger remains half- pressed on the shutter release). A Mirrorless Camera will never full emulate a DSLR as the EVF will gain up so the view does not appear dark (a Mirrorless advantage)
Another very useful video - I hadn't considered the Live View Disp Set option until now. Thanks, Mark. If using back button focus, would it be sensible to _always_ select Release, rather than Balanced Emphasis, as the priority for both AF-S and AF-C?
So with A9mk1 there is no way of having the camera focus with lens wide open when stopped down in AF-C. Shooting in low light at f5.6 the A9 is not very good in AF-C. My A7iv is way, way better. Hopefully not to long to wait for an A9III, which I have a feeling will be a close to perfect for my needs.
Have been reading about whether having Anti-Flicker turned on might contribute to focussing and other issues in Sony a7iii. Do you think it has impact on low light sports photography and video (outdoor late evening football). Should I turn it off or is it safe to leave it on (some comments I read say that on Sony a7iii it makes no difference if its left on but others disagree)
Amazing video! Is there a name for theses minority lenses that don't open up temporarily to find critical focus? Is there some time of nomenclature to identify them? Or some way we could be aware that the lenses are designed this way in their descriptions or tech specs?
Thanks for this video. My Sony A73 paired with the Sony Zeiss 55mm at F1.8 can't focus in my dark nightclub shoots very well no matter I do but my new Sony A6600 can. My question is, which of the newer full frame Sonys would be mostly likely to perform as well as my A6600 for complex low light nightclub shooting? A7rIV or A9II ? Or even the new A7C? I assume its the processor that makes the difference. I love the A6600 paired with the fast 17-55 G lens focus motors. Now I want to replicate this miracle in full frame. Any suggestions which to buy? If I could find any information on this subject elsewhere I would not ask here but its scare. Thanks in advance for any advise.
The new A7C has a one stop advantage over the A7lll for focusing in low light. Sony release low light AF specifications. It usually appears as a number such as -3 or -4. -4 is superior to -3. Check the specs of any camera you are considering purchasing from this is importing your workflow.
I would love to go e mount but all my lenses are a mount I thinking about selling everything and going with Olympus it's good enough for me and a lot more afordable
Gary Brown - it’s a fine portable system (sony make their sensors) so long as you are aware that you lose certain advantages in choosing a system where the sensor is a 1/4 the size, e.g. figure ground separation, low light performance and reliable AF subject tracking. Also be aware that Olympus lenses cannot be adapted to Sony Full Frame sensors. Your A-Mount lenses, however can be adapted to E-Mount cameras.
ЖЕНЯ & ЯНА - I use Lightroom. Sometimes I will brush additional noise reduction into the smooth bokeh areas rather than apply a strong setting globally.
Mark, Very interesting info on lenses that stay open when focusing (55 f1.8) and some that don't(85 f1.4). Is the ability to stay open a firmware issue that could be applied to a lens or is it a permanent mechanical/hardware feature built into the lens? Regarding the lenses that will focus wide open before closing for shutter: Is there a limit to the f stop or does the lens stay open for the entire f stop range? Can you recommend any other lenses that focus wide open?. Are you familiar with any third party lenses ( Sigma & Tamron) and how they act when focusing? I currently have Fuji XT2 and the zooms (10-24-, 16-55, 50-140) all stop down during the entire process of focusing AF-S and AF-C. Thanks again, FW
It's very rare that I find a lens that doesn't open up to find focus when in AF-S. I came across the 55 Macro that also behaviour es like the 85 f/1.4. The workaround of course is just to switch Live view off when using these lenses in low light with the aperture stopped down. I don't imagine it is an oversight by Sony so would fully expect that this remains the expected behaviour for these few lenses.
Mark hi, Im curious if the same situation of stopped down aperture for focusing is also with the a7iv? meaning it would too have issues in low light as the a7riii or a7iii cameras? also is the procedure of the aperture opening (btw, it doent look like it opens to max aperture with afs but just a bit) a bit for focus prior enough time for it to focus? I had the a7riii and it couldnt focu properly in low light. a bit better in AFS but horrible in afc. and whats the deal with the lens pumping in AFS? also im curious why they removed the af/mf switch on the mk1 body onwards. complete shame to do so. its a must. wasting cf buttons ir quite dumb and many lenses dont have a switch. thank you.
@@AlphaCreativeSkills wow thats terrible. I had the a7riii. just sold it 3 weeks ago.it absolutely was a horrible thing to shoot dance floor weddings with it. I couldnt get used to the skin tones. but I know the a7iv gen4 was improved with that. I have no use for the camera if it cant focus in low light on the dance floor. how do people cope? im still on dslr shooting and never have an issue shooting in the darkest dance floors but I need a hybrid camera.
The A7IV can focus in 1/2 the amount of light as the A7RIII. Choosing F1.4 primes will help you photograph in very low light. An F1.4 lens needs only 1/4 of the light that an F2.8 zoom needs to find focus. I offer extensive one-on-one support on my Patreon.com/markgaler support channel.
All Mirrorless cameras operate in the same manner - You may have trouble finding a DSLR to purchase in the coming years as manufacturers end this line of technology. Current DSLRs have many disadvantages compared to current Mirrorless cameras, e.g., AF in good ambient light is usually far more reliable.
Thanks Mark for this interesting video, thumbs up. Still a question, do you have to set something special for the hvl-f45rm flash so that the LED will function as AF-light? greetings from Belgium !
Thanks for making ths Mark. I shoot alot of weddings and Low light churches and Receptions with Flash is so dam difficult with my sony a7r4 and a7r3 compared to my old nikon systems. I wish the sonys night event scenes with flash could focus and be as fast as nikons because its really messing with the way i like to work with my subjects. adding that big of lag in focusing really fuks up moments
@@AlphaCreativeSkills i am using godox systems and also with nigh events/wedding receptions i usually crank the ISO 1600 - 3200 so that i dont need much flash power but the camera still has a problem of either focusing in low light.. or gets the shot but every 2nd or 3rd shot has no flash cause the flash is still refreshing. its definatley not like my nikon systems where i could focus very quckly and fire off a heap before flash would die
Ask the Godox Ambassador why their product misfires when used on a sony camera as the Sony flash does not. You will improve your AF by switching to a wide aperture prime asn choosing AF-S as your Focus mode. if you don't take the last step you would be better off with a DSLR which always uses the maximum aperture to focus. It's not a brand issue (Godox aside) it is a Mirrorless/DSLR issue.
Thanks so much for the tutorial and tips. I’ve experienced very long lag periods from when the shutter button is pressed to when the flash fires. I wonder if choosing to shoot in either of the ‘fill’ or ‘rear’ options makes a difference to reducing this delay? Also, would manually setting the flash power be faster than relying on TTL? Thanks once again.
Interesting . . . I just set up my a7iii w/ a Sony 16-35 F2.8 GM for a local outdoor christmas event at night w/ lots of christmas lights etc . . . My settings were as you recommended (even the deeper ones inside the menu). . .. AF-S shutter was 1/60 @ f2.8 ISO auto . . . . most all of the shots were waaaay under exposed. 2- things are odd . . . a few came out spectacular . . . but it was less than 10% . . . . and what's even more odd to me . . . most of them look decent while reviewing them in the viewfinder . . . but once I transferred them to my Mac Book Air . . . 90% of them are way under exposed . . . but the other 10% look much better . . . but not NEARLY as good as in the Sony viewfinder. It's obviously something on my end that I'm missing. Also the lighting conditions did not change over the course of the event. Sure wish I knew what I'm doing wrong . . . . thank you for the excellent tips as always . . . at least it's got me digging into the system deeper.
But why mirrorless cameras are stoping aperture down? Whe they do that? Why they can't behave like DSLR? Wide open and stop down before taking picture? I know that image goes to EVF, but EVF can simulate exposure of stopped down apperture. Problem would be only in very bright day - then they can stop down apperture if they can't simulate.
You have a choice to do either on a Mirrorless camera - as outlined in the movie - it all depends whether you want to preview aperture and depth of field (setting effect) or not.
Nameless - A6000 is excellent at that price point. You should also research the original A7 which has dropped in price significantly. If you have the camera on a tripod and use low ISO both cameras will perform really well.
@@AlphaCreativeSkills Hi thanks for your reply the a7 is full frame though? Which is a better buy? I do like the compact size a6000 I'm obviously going to be using a tripod. I would like to make and sell prints.
Nameless - only if you have a need for the new or upgraded features of the A6300 over the A6000. You only specified one use for the camera so I can’t comment further. If image quality for night photography was your only consideration you would be looking at full frame sensors.
Mark - I love your videos. They are the most complete I've seen. However, it is still hard to assemble all your settings in one place. May I suggest creating "Check-off lists." You could have them for Landscape Tripod, Landscape hand-held, Portrait, Action, etc.
Roger Huston - This is actually next on my list. I will make them available via my blog - hope to have them out before Xmas - hopefully some people will feel generous enough to make a donation as the current donations don’t even cover the server costs to run a site with huge amounts of traffic.
Mark - Just a suggestion, make the lists in a neutral format. I for one will want to use them in OneNote. As for monetization, happy to donate. A couple of other suggestions. 1) put a paypal donate button on your site - make it easy. Right now it is a multi-step process on check-out. 2) Affiliate links - you review a lot of good stuff, put affiliate links on your site and in your reviews. I would have bought my A7r3 from your site had I know you had it. 3) Consider a Patreon account. You are a good content creator, allow people to support you regularly.
Hi - does OneNote recognise the PDF format? I have a Paypal 'Donate' button on myself site already and I have links in my blog reviews to B&H and the Sony Alpha Australia store.
Mark - No, its more simple text. Like Evernote. I'm not going to print out a check list - but I do want to have handy on my phone. You could create a simple Google Doc version you can link too. You have the word Donate on your top menu on your website. You don't have the Yellow Donate Paypal button everyone knows so its easy to overlook. I haven't found the B&H Photo. I saw the other. Still, you can do a whole lot more. Have a Support me section on every RUclips Video: If you are talking about the Sony A7r3 - link to it on Amazon (US, UK, AU). NISI filters - links. Your gear - links. Any product review video you do should have a direct link to that product to buy - every time. Don't let people have to go find it. If I saw them in every video, I wouldn't have to go search for it. It's hard enough to remember which video has which settings and then the best way to set them all - Landscape, Portrait, Action, Street, Low Light and that's what I have open now trying to setup my new A7riii. Put a "My Gear" or "Support Me" section with affiliate links to all your gear in every video. Give people the ability to get everywhere from everywhere.
John Talstad - it was designed to be a very bright aperture lens with outstanding bokeh so it loses its unique advantage if stopped down to f/11 and used in a studio where the background bokeh is missing from the picture.
Thank you for the reply What about wide open in dark conditions like a wedding reception? When do you use the 1.4? Could yet another firmware update make it better?
@@jtalstad - The AF performs really well at the wider apertures and if you have updated the firmware of your camera and can remember to switch the Live View Setting to OFF you will be able to focus using the f/2 as the focussing aperture.
I have used all these tips but am still massively struggling with club/techno photography, where subjects are moving and I am at a 1.4/1.8 fstop. The LED light is too distracting and noticeable and the lag is still to great that the AF beam on the sony isn't helpful. Do you have any tips for dancing/moving subjests in the dark that require near instantaneous AF/flash combo's? I am coming from a Canon IV setup/native flash and have completely switched over, but this is quite a large issue for me which is making me reconsider my choices.
I owned this lens for a short while and never closed it down beyond f/2 so didn’t notice the problem- it may behave differently as the two lenses were designed by separate companies.
My copy of this lens does not open up during autofocus in AF-S. But you can turn Live View sim off (it still hunts - you can see flickering in the viewfinder).
Hi Mark. I take tango dancing picture at night clubs. The subject is moving very fast and my 7ARII had hard time focusing sometimes. I just upgrade to A7R3. Hopefully this will help. Any tips for me? Manually focusing my lens would allow me to take the pictures faster once the subjust is within range of focus but I will miss a lots of shots. Automatic focus is slow and searching sometimes.
Just wondering - one of your first images is shot at ISO 80000, and still looks pretty good. Do you do noise reduction in Lightroom alone, or other tools? I recently shot a wedding on my A7RII at ISO 10000 (dark inside church, 105mm, and couldn't drop shutter speed below 1/125 (reciprocal rule), but had waaaaaay more noise than in the image you took.
I just used Lightroom - I apply a global noise reduction of only 15-20 but apply localised noise reduction (via an adjustment brush) in the smooth out of focus areas of +80
@@AlphaCreativeSkills Thanks so much for the response - I'll try and do the same. Your videos are amazing - you could honestly charge a fair amount for your content. It is to the point, but expands on things well - and you cover off so many areas. Sony are luck to have you as an ambassador. Thank you!
Thanks for the positive feedback- I decided last year to shift from paid content to donations. There are enough grateful photographers out there to keep me creating new content 😀
Very useful as always, Mark! Moved recently to A7R3 from Canon, I noticed the Sony flash system isn't as good as the Canon's, although I expected to see the same great TTL implementation as we know it from Minolta, which works perfectly for events where you put the body in fully manual mode, but keep the flash in TTL. One question - I've the Sony HVL-F60RM, but I never managed to make its LEDs to work as AF assist light on the A7R3 - do you've an idea whether this flash has built in AF assist, or the LEDs are intended to be used only for video as constant light? I also wonder whether Sony implemented any IR AF assist as Canon does in their bodies, or it is just the annoying orange lamp? You know, having the eye-poking AF assist light in front of the subjects is a guarantee for super-annoying pictures. :) Keep up the good work!
These videos should ship with every Sony camera.. This guy knows his stuff. Hopefully the Sony money truck is visiting him often 🤑
There was a firmware update that fixed the issue with the 85mm GM aperture not opening up while focusing. As long as Live View Display is OFF, the lens now opens up all the way to f/2 in both AFS and AFC. That's not fully open, but much better than it used to be originally. This fix was celebrated by the community when it came out for the a7rII, and the newer cameras never even had this issue. But you do have to make sure Live View Display is OFF, otherwise the iris does stay closed while focusing.
This is one of those tips that are absolutely essential.
Thanks for the positive feedback
Good grief! As a basic photographer using Sony since 2016 I had no idea about this low light focus "problem". Liovong in a part of the world that is more or less bereft of light nine months of the year, using your info I'll probably get a whole lot more photos in focus going forward. Thank you!
Thanks Mark this helped TREMENDOUSLY with my A7RIV in the studio. Lower light caused the focus to "hunt" back and forth. I will use AF-S from now on in low light! Kudos brother!
No Worries - subscribe to the channel to ensure you are not missing any new content that is being released.
Amazing information Mark. On a side note, my Tamron lenses do the opening aperture stuff in AFC mode too.
I just bought the Tamron 17-28 and 28-75. It would have taken me ages to figure that out. Thanks for the tip!
Actually I just tested it and that does not seem to be the case for me. At very small apertures it will open up a tiny bit in AF-c, but not nearly as wide as in AF-S.
@@joshs7642 Good info mate! Thanks for sharing too
Mark, as usual, you took a complex subject and “illuminated” it in ways, few other teachers on the planet could ever have done. (Pun intended, with illuminated)...thank you for being such an amazing resource for these complex and very new cameras. I will tell you now, I am anxiously awaiting your course on how to use the new 5.0 firmware, then 6.0 firmware for the Sony A9. Cheers, my friend.
Thank you so much- these tips are game changers..... I’ve always shot in AF-C, and I had no idea about live display affecting focus too!
Cath O same
Hi Mark,
I already add 55mm f1.8...on my A7iii.
For daily photoshoot..street, portrait, family portrait.
Thanks for always inspired me..indeed.🙏
Learned my first valuable lessons after coming to mirrorless Sony systems from Nikon DSLRs >_< I was doing some low light photos last night and struggled to focus on moving objects in AF-C at 5.6 . I struggled really bad. putting this into practice will help. Thanks sooo much! I will try some of these tips tonight.
Awesome video! I wonder if light metering mode could also affect how camera focus in dim light…
Unlikely
Thanks for the great video Mark. As a Nikon mirrorless shooter I suspect most of the AF-S and AF-C characteristics of the Sony’s apply to the Nikon’s.
I just wish Nikon would provide such useful videos.
You are probably correct. Sony don't ask me to make these videos. They are above and beyond what Sony expect me to do as an Ambassador (basically hashtag Sony when I post and speak 6 times a year at Sony events).
Had to watch it 4 times to check I undertstood it all properly there is so much info there! Another excellent video.
Glad you enjoyed it!
I’ve always wondered why my A6x00 cameras sometimes seem so sluggish to autofocus with my fancy Sony/Zeiss 16-70 f4 zoom (at the time pretty much the only upgrade from the lousy kit zoom). And now I know - it doesn’t open up focusing! Grrr, but also yay to at least know! Looks like I need to make a change! Another great MG video.
There are several good standard zooms around now for the A6xxx series cameras. Sony's 16-55 F/2.8 G is very very sharp but does not have OSS so is best suited to A6500 and A6600 owners.
EXCELLENT video tutorial Mark. I had NO idea about several of these items about the Sony aperture breathing to help the AF lock on. Great tips. Now I will need to see if this applies to all my lenses. I wonder if this also happens on the Sigma lenses (probably not?). Keep up the fantastic series of videos. You do SO SO much for the Sony alpha community. Its no wonder Sony chose you to be an ambassador.
Wow. Been shooting a7rII since 2015, understood some things but not a lot of the relationships. I think the use of the image sensor as the exposure sensor is the number 1 thing that is most difficult for DSLR users to transition to. The fact that lenses differ from each other on how the camera body uses them. But the shifting of live view settings to get the most light for focusing was something i wasn't using. Thanks very much!!!!
Tank you very much Mark for this very helpful video!
Glad it was helpful!
Thank you for that, Mark. I knew a lot of that, but did not realize about the limitation on the 85mm f1.4. I had a very frustrating time shooting headshots in studio with that lens at f8 just a few weeks ago!
Use a strobe with a good modelling light (like Godox 400 or 600 PRO - NOT THE NON-PRO) and your problems will vanish.
ottawamountainman for that particular assignment I brought the Profoto B1. You’re right, the modeling lamp on that strobe is not amazingly bright, with my Canon DSLR bodies I didn’t even bother with the modeling lights for focusing sometimes - it’s totally different with the e-mount on that front.
I have been enjoying your videos. I have learned a lot about my a7r3. Is it possible that you make a video and share your knowledge about how to shoot a group of people? Like a single line, doubles and so on.
I start with dialling in my portrait settings (outlined in my Portait movie) and then stop the aperture down to f/8
wow. i didn't know this at all. i got frustrated one with a night photoshoot coz i'm always in AF-C. very helpful. thanks!
Geri Brn Same! I always stay in AF-C. Now I know better. Thank you Mark!
Same, going to try out AF-S tonight to see how well it works
Oh! That's why it wouldn't find focus. Thank you so much. Need to use af-s in certain situations.
Glad it was helpful!
Mark, Thank you so much for this video. It is really helpful. Just recently, I returned from a bird photography shoot at Bosque del Apache, NM and my a6300 was struggling to focus on cranes in AF-C mode in low light. I wish I could know these tricks that time to get more out of my camera. Great video once again for Sony mirrorless shooters. Thank you.
Unfortunately, I have to stay in AF-C since I am mostly shooting dancers at their local events in the evening. Still, I love this video as it reminded me to check my AF illuminator setting to see if that could help. And just in general, this is a great video to better understand concepts behind the Sony camera system. Another well done video, Mark. Thank you immensely!
So long as you are shooting with a wide aperture AF-C is fine 👍
@@AlphaCreativeSkills - I am fortunate that most of my lenses drop down to 2.8 or 1.8, save for on 4.0.
Thanks Mark, absolutely helped me clear up a few low light focus problems that I’ve had since my change to Alpha cameras.
Thank you, very helpful. I normally shoot outdoors, natural light but occasionally have an indoor low light situation and I was essentially lost. This was a great help, I will use my new knowledge for New Year’s Day party shoot.
Great Video. I still get a lot of noise in my event photography pics from iso 1600 and up. How are you getting such little noise on your pics at these ultra high iso's? Thanks
Watch my Lightroom Masterclass for more insight into this topic.
I was under the impression that in AFC there is a somewhat complex (read perplexing) algorithm at play which depends on the lens used, ambient light, aperture selected and amount of refocusing needed (change in focusing distance). By playing with these factors at studio-style F stops (like F8 or smaller) i can « force » my a7r3 to momentarily open the aperture fairly wide to refocus. But as you stated in the video this is less robust than in AFS. The other work around in studio is using strobes with powerful modelling lights. I tested the focusing accuracy of the Sony FE 50 1.4 (a problem lens in dimly lit studios) at smaller aperture settings using a Godox 400 Pro with modelling light only set to proportional vs a strobe with no modelling light. Needless to say the difference in image sharpness was night and day (pun intended).
Great video btw!
Wish I watched this video before last weekends shoot. I was struggling to get auto focus with strobes and the live display would have been great to turn off. Next time! Thanks Mark.
Best tutorials I have seen. Thank you for your excellent work, Mark!
Mark, can you please do a video on the new firmware update in regards to Aperture Drive in AF please. How does this new function work in relation to this video you just put out?
I believe Aperture Drive is a new feature that is available for the FE 400 F/2.8 GM which has a programmable ring that can be used to snap into APS-C mode or move focus. I programmed the ring to snap into APS-C Mode.
Another great video thanks for sharing.
Fantastic tutorials Mark!!! Just bought an A7riii and your videos help me a lot to fully understand and customize my gear. Cheers
Learned a few things about my A7III by watching this. Thanks!
Hi sir !..
i have question please ... i want to add all my product image stack in photoshop ..so i want to my Sony A7III camera can take around 15 image automaticaly with all different angel focus ?
There is no automated focus stacking on an A7III camera.
Thanks very useful information. I'm looking to move from my DSLR to a mirrorless camera mainly for video features. I was set on a Z6 but once I heard about the lowlight AF problems I've switched to looking at Sony. I'll be honest I'm not 100% happy about doing that but I think it's the right system going forward.
The focus tracking of the A7lll in Continuous AF is much superior that the new Nikon and Canon Full Frame cameras. The eye-AF, dual card slot and bigger battery are also some of the many advantages of the Sony.
I made the switch to Sony while waiting for Canon to go mirrorless, with the realization that Canon would remain a generation or two behind Sony for a few years. Sony's head start will be hard to surpass, so I went directly to the A7R3 & 16-35 f2.8 GM and haven't looked back. Now using other Canon L lenses with it and considering which other Sony lenses to buy. 85 1.8, 50 1.4 Zeiss, Voigtlander APO Lanthar 1:1 Macro on the wish list.
Good information. in low light 24-105/F4 can use it ? i feel F4 not like F1.8 or F2.8.. So how i can use this lens Sony FE24-105/F4 with sony A7R2 body in low light ? Thanks
Thank you soo much for straightening that out and you do it in a great way!
I just made the switch from Nikon to Sony and you make the transition easier!
Thankyou for the lovely tips :D Quick question, when shooting wildlife i have often wondered whether i will have more success focusing with a higher shutter speed and high iso or with a lower shutter speed and lower iso? (assuming that the shutter speed is fast enough to freeze the action appropriately offcourse) (or is there no difference as the light is equivalent?)
Thanks. That's a really useful video. I didn't know about the AF-illuminator working with A6500 (and maybe some other cameras) and some of the Sony flashes have a focus-assist LED. I also didn't understand the differences in how AF-S and AF-C acquire focus.
hi i have the alpha 1 camera with the f1,2 50mm prime lens. but in low light it looks like crap. very much horizontal green and red stripes with very very much noise. i cant even shoot a picture with iso 6k. whats wrong with me?
If you are shooting in low light with artificial lights you can use Anti-Flicker for low frequency lights such as fluorescent tubes or Variable Shutter for removing lines created by high frequency LED lighting
thank you
Good video Mark and it is the same findings as I have done. I shot low light club events. My biggest problem is stopped down group portraits with flash. AF-S works but is (too) slow. AF-C is useless when stopped down (but works fantastic wide open even with Eye-AF) in these environments so singe person portraits are super easy to get. But the group ones not. The HVL-F45RM I have as well, and it has the LED as you mention, but people don't really like to get it in their eyes. I have dimmed mine down with some layers of printer paper in front if it, but it is still too bright for people that have their eyes tuned in for a dark club. Can you please relay to Sony that we need a low light AF mode that focuses wide open no matter what the shooting aperture is set at. And they can do it in both AF-S and AF-C with PDAF only, we don't need the CDAF fine tuning and we don't care about the potential focus shift, the DOF at f5.6 or 8 will cover all that. And that the EVF will flicker and the aperture will rattle when going back and forth between focusing and taking mode, that we can live with as well, just as long as we can focus with ease. This is my biggest problem actually with using Sony. At times I wonder if I should bring a cheap Canon DSRL just for the group portraits... Thanks!
This is great information. However, this should be standard information provided to every Sony camera shooter. You should talk to Sony to incorporate a link to this video in their user manuals.
So, I am going to shoot fire spinners, which is at night time, with fast to moderate movement, is this video highly applicable?? I have a standards FE 3.5-5.6/28-70 OSS lens.
Yes but can you borrow an f/1.8 prime to help keep your ISO lower.
@@AlphaCreativeSkills I am going to need to.. because the photos were pretty grainy last night. Also, any good recommended videos for adjusting your photos for Instagram?? I posted an astro-photo yesterday and the quality was so bad.. Thank you soul much.
Most helpful video on RUclips. Thank you!!!
The high aperture (I.e: high F stop) AF issue mystery resolved!! Thanks!!
Brilliant. Just so helpful. Thank you for this.
Another nugget of gold, this video. Thank you.
Mark, I have a big issue, next week i need to shoot a beach at night, no lights, 4am, i have a 1.8 lens, but my big issue is focus, do u recommend use MF?
I offer personalised support on my Patreon.com/markgaler
thanks a lot for the infos. i think it's a myth to use a f4 lens in low light - unless you using a tripod or bump up the ISO to max. unfortunately in pitch black situations when you have to use a flash to capture anything, this AF illuminator or focus light on the (sony) flash is quite annoying. i wonder why sony or the other camera barnd still haven't invented something to replace a AF assist light (red pattern) to work in super low light situations.
I rarely use flash, even when photographing at night
Very helpful Mark! So is the takeaway for video shooters to shoot wide open in A-mode under very low light? Seems like that's stating the obvious, but I've got plenty of blurry clips where I was chasing little kids around at a dimly lit birthday party.
It is probably worth checking out my Focus Masterclass movie to ensure you are using the optimum AF settings.
You make a great teacher Mark great work.
But what about video in low light.The setting automatically go to AF-C. Use wide focus mode with AF-C?
Shoot wide open and use touch focus
@@AlphaCreativeSkills I notice when I did this, touch it reverts to MF vs AF-C
Just tested a few sony and Sigma EF lenses and they open up even when focussing in AF-C, depending on how much light they are seeing. AF-S opens up the aperture every time
Dear Mark, Again an interesting tutorial. Do you also have the ideal settings for the A 6000? Thanks and best regards, Eelco de Wal
you will find a movie on the A6300 settings which is pretty close to the A6000
Please make a video about zebra stripes and how to fix overexposed areas on camera. I own sony a7iii. Thanks!!!
I discuss the use of zebras in my ‘movie settings’ video. I don’t personally use zebras when shooting stills as I monitor the histogram in the EVF and Monitor. I also discuss how to make the histogram appear closer to the Raw view. Highlights are recovered using the Whites slider in Lightroom - but only if Shooting in Raw.
Your videos are soo good! Thanks again Mark!
My a6400 focus hunts in broad daylight shooting video. I cannot figure out why. I have it in wide area, shooting landscape, and I did some talking head stuff with landscapes behind person. I cannot figure out why it would focus hunt, it's not a low contrast or low light situation.
There are a number of reasons I can think of but without seeing the footage or your camera settings I would only be speculating.
Wow thanks for replying to my message. I had the problem in a clip at 2:16 in this video vimeo.com/426454205/144d7ec4ac I did a focus point on my nose but maybe it lost it? For some reason I keep loosing the ability to do eye af / face af and cannot figure out why. It just says "No" on the display. I'm sure it's due to a conflicting setting but cannot figure out which one. There were some additional clips, with the mountains as in 1:00 that didn't seem to get a good focus lock. Those clips all had the green mountains framed like in that clip (not enough contrast?). I'll have to load those up somewhere. Thanks much for replying! I am VERY excited about this camera. I switched from 5d to a6400 as it dramatically decreases size of my equipment. However, it's a bit of a learning curve, I've a ways to go to figure it all out. Spent probably 4 or 5 hours going through tutorials. Still a bit lost with AF.
I will have to check but I think Eye AF arrived on the A6600 so you will only have face detect AF. You may not even have this if you switch Proxy Recording On. Nose is not a good place to lock focus on. AF systems like a high contrast edge so eyes and eyebrows are good. You will also lose your Phase Detect AF (PDAF) if you stop down beyond f/11. This is what is causes your hunting as it moves the camera into Contrast Detect AF which is what does that jumping. Use a Neutral Density filter to increase the aperture in bright ambient light. This will also help to slow the shutter speed down so the video does not look 'choppy'. If you want to use me as mentor while you skill up you can work with me via my Patreon Support site. I am currently working with 160 Alpha users helping their master their craft. www.patreon.com/markgaler
@@AlphaCreativeSkills Thanks! I wondered if it wasn't the aperture. I was having to stop down quite a bit due to all the strong light up there. Then that makes since with the contrast / nose. I'll check out your patreon :) Thanks!
Dear Mark, my A7R III also "breathes open" in AF-C with the 55mm 1.8, but it does it much later (with less light) than in AF-S. Seems that AF-C works better in lower light until it has to open up.
Mark thank you very much for this valuable information. I alway turn off Live view Display when shooting in low wedding reception light! However I shoot roughly close to f2.8 / 3.2 wide. But do I understand correctly that the lens is stoped down during my shooting and Live view effect are electronically simulated when turned off? I originally assumed that turning off the live view display will restore the DSLR behavior!!
With live view Off - the lens is only stopped down while Focus is acquired (your finger remains half- pressed on the shutter release). A Mirrorless Camera will never full emulate a DSLR as the EVF will gain up so the view does not appear dark (a Mirrorless advantage)
Another very useful video - I hadn't considered the Live View Disp Set option until now. Thanks, Mark.
If using back button focus, would it be sensible to _always_ select Release, rather than Balanced Emphasis, as the priority for both AF-S and AF-C?
Depends if you value capturing the decisive moment or images that only have ultra sharp focus.
Great technical explanation!
So with A9mk1 there is no way of having the camera focus with lens wide open when stopped down in AF-C. Shooting in low light at f5.6 the A9 is not very good in AF-C. My A7iv is way, way better. Hopefully not to long to wait for an A9III, which I have a feeling will be a close to perfect for my needs.
Performance is as outlined in this video for all mirrorless cameras.
Have been reading about whether having Anti-Flicker turned on might contribute to focussing and other issues in Sony a7iii. Do you think it has impact on low light sports photography and video (outdoor late evening football). Should I turn it off or is it safe to leave it on (some comments I read say that on Sony a7iii it makes no difference if its left on but others disagree)
Turn it off whenever you think it is not required as it lowers finder resolution.
Thanks Mark for such a great explanation to these systems.
Amazing video! Is there a name for theses minority lenses that don't open up temporarily to find critical focus? Is there some time of nomenclature to identify them? Or some way we could be aware that the lenses are designed this way in their descriptions or tech specs?
Sony do not list these lenses- best to test before you purchase
Really helpful. Thanks Mark.
Thanks for this video. My Sony A73 paired with the Sony Zeiss 55mm at F1.8 can't focus in my dark nightclub shoots very well no matter I do but my new Sony A6600 can. My question is, which of the newer full frame Sonys would be mostly likely to perform as well as my A6600 for complex low light nightclub shooting? A7rIV or A9II ? Or even the new A7C? I assume its the processor that makes the difference. I love the A6600 paired with the fast 17-55 G lens focus motors. Now I want to replicate this miracle in full frame. Any suggestions which to buy? If I could find any information on this subject elsewhere I would not ask here but its scare. Thanks in advance for any advise.
The new A7C has a one stop advantage over the A7lll for focusing in low light. Sony release low light AF specifications. It usually appears as a number such as -3 or -4. -4 is superior to -3. Check the specs of any camera you are considering purchasing from this is importing your workflow.
Outstanding Video... thank you for this. It did address several issues I've suffered with in the past.
Huge help thank you
When shooting a dimly lit fashion runway with a 70-200 f2.8 or f4, what focus area and settings would you recommend?
I have a Focus Area movie you can watch. I don’t limit myself to one focus area.
I would love to go e mount but all my lenses are a mount
I thinking about selling everything and going with Olympus it's good enough for me and a lot more afordable
Gary Brown - it’s a fine portable system (sony make their sensors) so long as you are aware that you lose certain advantages in choosing a system where the sensor is a 1/4 the size, e.g. figure ground separation, low light performance and reliable AF subject tracking. Also be aware that Olympus lenses cannot be adapted to Sony Full Frame sensors. Your A-Mount lenses, however can be adapted to E-Mount cameras.
Thank you for the amazing tutorial as always! What is the NR technique or software do you apply for these images if I may ask?
ЖЕНЯ & ЯНА - I use Lightroom. Sometimes I will brush additional noise reduction into the smooth bokeh areas rather than apply a strong setting globally.
@@AlphaCreativeSkills Many thanks!
Mark,
Very interesting info on lenses that stay open when focusing (55 f1.8) and some that don't(85 f1.4). Is the ability to stay open a firmware issue that could be applied to a lens or is it a permanent mechanical/hardware feature built into the lens? Regarding the lenses that will focus wide open before closing for shutter: Is there a limit to the f stop or does the lens stay open for the entire f stop range? Can you recommend any other lenses that focus wide open?. Are you familiar with any third party lenses ( Sigma & Tamron) and how they act when focusing? I currently have Fuji XT2 and the zooms (10-24-, 16-55, 50-140) all stop down during the entire process of focusing AF-S and AF-C. Thanks again, FW
It's very rare that I find a lens that doesn't open up to find focus when in AF-S. I came across the 55 Macro that also behaviour es like the 85 f/1.4. The workaround of course is just to switch Live view off when using these lenses in low light with the aperture stopped down. I don't imagine it is an oversight by Sony so would fully expect that this remains the expected behaviour for these few lenses.
perfect information, perfect presentation, thank you!!
Great tips on this video
Mark hi, Im curious if the same situation of stopped down aperture for focusing is also with the a7iv? meaning it would too have issues in low light as the a7riii or a7iii cameras? also is the procedure of the aperture opening (btw, it doent look like it opens to max aperture with afs but just a bit) a bit for focus prior enough time for it to focus? I had the a7riii and it couldnt focu properly in low light. a bit better in AFS but horrible in afc. and whats the deal with the lens pumping in AFS? also im curious why they removed the af/mf switch on the mk1 body onwards. complete shame to do so. its a must. wasting cf buttons ir quite dumb and many lenses dont have a switch. thank you.
Same for all Alpha cameras
@@AlphaCreativeSkills wow thats terrible. I had the a7riii. just sold it 3 weeks ago.it absolutely was a horrible thing to shoot dance floor weddings with it. I couldnt get used to the skin tones. but I know the a7iv gen4 was improved with that. I have no use for the camera if it cant focus in low light on the dance floor. how do people cope? im still on dslr shooting and never have an issue shooting in the darkest dance floors but I need a hybrid camera.
The A7IV can focus in 1/2 the amount of light as the A7RIII. Choosing F1.4 primes will help you photograph in very low light. An F1.4 lens needs only 1/4 of the light that an F2.8 zoom needs to find focus. I offer extensive one-on-one support on my Patreon.com/markgaler support channel.
@@AlphaCreativeSkills I dont use sony anymore sold a7riii last month. not certain ill go back.
All Mirrorless cameras operate in the same manner - You may have trouble finding a DSLR to purchase in the coming years as manufacturers end this line of technology. Current DSLRs have many disadvantages compared to current Mirrorless cameras, e.g., AF in good ambient light is usually far more reliable.
Thanks Mark for this interesting video, thumbs up. Still a question, do you have to set something special for the hvl-f45rm flash so that the LED will function as AF-light? greetings from Belgium !
It should just work automatically. There are just two options for the LED as AF Light on the HVL and that is low or high.
Thanks for making ths Mark.
I shoot alot of weddings and Low light churches and Receptions with Flash is so dam difficult with my sony a7r4 and a7r3 compared to my old nikon systems.
I wish the sonys night event scenes with flash could focus and be as fast as nikons because its really messing with the way i like to work with my subjects. adding that big of lag in focusing really fuks up moments
If you are experiencing lag with flash then I suspect you are not using Sony flash units.
@@AlphaCreativeSkills i am using godox systems and also with nigh events/wedding receptions i usually crank the ISO 1600 - 3200 so that i dont need much flash power but the camera still has a problem of either focusing in low light.. or gets the shot but every 2nd or 3rd shot has no flash cause the flash is still refreshing. its definatley not like my nikon systems where i could focus very quckly and fire off a heap before flash would die
Ask the Godox Ambassador why their product misfires when used on a sony camera as the Sony flash does not. You will improve your AF by switching to a wide aperture prime asn choosing AF-S as your Focus mode. if you don't take the last step you would be better off with a DSLR which always uses the maximum aperture to focus. It's not a brand issue (Godox aside) it is a Mirrorless/DSLR issue.
Thanks so much for the tutorial and tips. I’ve experienced very long lag periods from when the shutter button is pressed to when the flash fires. I wonder if choosing to shoot in either of the ‘fill’ or ‘rear’ options makes a difference to reducing this delay? Also, would manually setting the flash power be faster than relying on TTL? Thanks once again.
What brand of flash are you using?
Mark Galer's Alpha Creative Skills Hi Mark. I am using a Nissin i700
I have no delay on my Sony flash - perhaps you could reach out to a Nissi Ambassador.
Interesting . . . I just set up my a7iii w/ a Sony 16-35 F2.8 GM for a local outdoor christmas event at night w/ lots of christmas lights etc . . . My settings were as you recommended (even the deeper ones inside the menu). . .. AF-S shutter was 1/60 @ f2.8 ISO auto . . . . most all of the shots were waaaay under exposed. 2- things are odd . . . a few came out spectacular . . . but it was less than 10% . . . . and what's even more odd to me . . . most of them look decent while reviewing them in the viewfinder . . . but once I transferred them to my Mac Book Air . . . 90% of them are way under exposed . . . but the other 10% look much better . . . but not NEARLY as good as in the Sony viewfinder. It's obviously something on my end that I'm missing. Also the lighting conditions did not change over the course of the event. Sure wish I knew what I'm doing wrong . . . . thank you for the excellent tips as always . . . at least it's got me digging into the system deeper.
I think the Sony viewfinder shows you a JPEG compressed image, but that's not what you have on the files and you have to process it to look like that
But why mirrorless cameras are stoping aperture down? Whe they do that? Why they can't behave like DSLR? Wide open and stop down before taking picture? I know that image goes to EVF, but EVF can simulate exposure of stopped down apperture. Problem would be only in very bright day - then they can stop down apperture if they can't simulate.
You have a choice to do either on a Mirrorless camera - as outlined in the movie - it all depends whether you want to preview aperture and depth of field (setting effect) or not.
Hi Mark, do any of these tips apply when shooting video?
No - not really.
Hi interesting video. Is the a6000 good for night photography? I love cityscapes and want a beginner affordable camera.
Nameless - A6000 is excellent at that price point. You should also research the original A7 which has dropped in price significantly. If you have the camera on a tripod and use low ISO both cameras will perform really well.
@@AlphaCreativeSkills Hi thanks for your reply the a7 is full frame though? Which is a better buy? I do like the compact size a6000 I'm obviously going to be using a tripod. I would like to make and sell prints.
If size of camera kit is important then the A6000 may be the better fit. I mentioned the A7 because bigger sensors lead to higher image quality.
@@AlphaCreativeSkills a6300 much better value?
Nameless - only if you have a need for the new or upgraded features of the A6300 over the A6000. You only specified one use for the camera so I can’t comment further. If image quality for night photography was your only consideration you would be looking at full frame sensors.
Spot on
very useful thank you so much!
Mark - I love your videos. They are the most complete I've seen. However, it is still hard to assemble all your settings in one place. May I suggest creating "Check-off lists." You could have them for Landscape Tripod, Landscape hand-held, Portrait, Action, etc.
Roger Huston - This is actually next on my list. I will make them available via my blog - hope to have them out before Xmas - hopefully some people will feel generous enough to make a donation as the current donations don’t even cover the server costs to run a site with huge amounts of traffic.
Mark - Just a suggestion, make the lists in a neutral format. I for one will want to use them in OneNote. As for monetization, happy to donate. A couple of other suggestions. 1) put a paypal donate button on your site - make it easy. Right now it is a multi-step process on check-out. 2) Affiliate links - you review a lot of good stuff, put affiliate links on your site and in your reviews. I would have bought my A7r3 from your site had I know you had it. 3) Consider a Patreon account. You are a good content creator, allow people to support you regularly.
Hi - does OneNote recognise the PDF format? I have a Paypal 'Donate' button on myself site already and I have links in my blog reviews to B&H and the Sony Alpha Australia store.
Mark - No, its more simple text. Like Evernote. I'm not going to print out a check list - but I do want to have handy on my phone. You could create a simple Google Doc version you can link too.
You have the word Donate on your top menu on your website. You don't have the Yellow Donate Paypal button everyone knows so its easy to overlook. I haven't found the B&H Photo. I saw the other. Still, you can do a whole lot more. Have a Support me section on every RUclips Video: If you are talking about the Sony A7r3 - link to it on Amazon (US, UK, AU). NISI filters - links. Your gear - links. Any product review video you do should have a direct link to that product to buy - every time. Don't let people have to go find it. If I saw them in every video, I wouldn't have to go search for it. It's hard enough to remember which video has which settings and then the best way to set them all - Landscape, Portrait, Action, Street, Low Light and that's what I have open now trying to setup my new A7riii. Put a "My Gear" or "Support Me" section with affiliate links to all your gear in every video. Give people the ability to get everywhere from everywhere.
So Mark, what WAS the 85mm 1.4 GM designed for? And when, exactly, do you reach for it before your 1.8?
John Talstad - it was designed to be a very bright aperture lens with outstanding bokeh so it loses its unique advantage if stopped down to f/11 and used in a studio where the background bokeh is missing from the picture.
Thank you for the reply
What about wide open in dark conditions like a wedding reception?
When do you use the 1.4?
Could yet another firmware update make it better?
@@jtalstad - The AF performs really well at the wider apertures and if you have updated the firmware of your camera and can remember to switch the Live View Setting to OFF you will be able to focus using the f/2 as the focussing aperture.
Great tutorial！ Mark, I have a spin-off question, how did you make a photo with ISO high to 80,000 look so clear?
I outline my approach to post producing high ISO images in my 2-Hour Post-Production Masterclass video
I have used all these tips but am still massively struggling with club/techno photography, where subjects are moving and I am at a 1.4/1.8 fstop. The LED light is too distracting and noticeable and the lag is still to great that the AF beam on the sony isn't helpful. Do you have any tips for dancing/moving subjests in the dark that require near instantaneous AF/flash combo's? I am coming from a Canon IV setup/native flash and have completely switched over, but this is quite a large issue for me which is making me reconsider my choices.
I have also tried using a Profoto flash and overriding with the Profoto AF, but still find there to be a lot of disconnent and soft focusing.
Not sure what settings you have made to invoke the lag you have mentioned.
Great info. Thanks
Very interesting! Thank you!
Considering the Zeiss Planar 50 1.4. Does anyone know if this lens has the same problem as the 85 1.4 GM?
I owned this lens for a short while and never closed it down beyond f/2 so didn’t notice the problem- it may behave differently as the two lenses were designed by separate companies.
My copy of this lens does not open up during autofocus in AF-S. But you can turn Live View sim off (it still hunts - you can see flickering in the viewfinder).
Thanks so much. This just helped solve the problems that I was noticing.
Let me know if you need any of the points clarified 😀
Hi Mark. I take tango dancing picture at night clubs. The subject is moving very fast and my 7ARII had hard time focusing sometimes. I just upgrade to A7R3. Hopefully this will help. Any tips for me? Manually focusing my lens would allow me to take the pictures faster once the subjust is within range of focus but I will miss a lots of shots. Automatic focus is slow and searching sometimes.
Just wondering - one of your first images is shot at ISO 80000, and still looks pretty good. Do you do noise reduction in Lightroom alone, or other tools?
I recently shot a wedding on my A7RII at ISO 10000 (dark inside church, 105mm, and couldn't drop shutter speed below 1/125 (reciprocal rule), but had waaaaaay more noise than in the image you took.
I just used Lightroom - I apply a global noise reduction of only 15-20 but apply localised noise reduction (via an adjustment brush) in the smooth out of focus areas of +80
@@AlphaCreativeSkills Thanks so much for the response - I'll try and do the same.
Your videos are amazing - you could honestly charge a fair amount for your content. It is to the point, but expands on things well - and you cover off so many areas. Sony are luck to have you as an ambassador. Thank you!
Thanks for the positive feedback- I decided last year to shift from paid content to donations. There are enough grateful photographers out there to keep me creating new content 😀
Thanks! keep spreading knowledge!
Thanks for sharing your information -very helpful
Really helpful. Thank you.
Very useful as always, Mark! Moved recently to A7R3 from Canon, I noticed the Sony flash system isn't as good as the Canon's, although I expected to see the same great TTL implementation as we know it from Minolta, which works perfectly for events where you put the body in fully manual mode, but keep the flash in TTL.
One question - I've the Sony HVL-F60RM, but I never managed to make its LEDs to work as AF assist light on the A7R3 - do you've an idea whether this flash has built in AF assist, or the LEDs are intended to be used only for video as constant light?
I also wonder whether Sony implemented any IR AF assist as Canon does in their bodies, or it is just the annoying orange lamp? You know, having the eye-poking AF assist light in front of the subjects is a guarantee for super-annoying pictures. :)
Keep up the good work!
helpguide.sony.net/ilc/1730/v1/en/contents/TP0001612154.html