Just a dedicated Honda subscriber getting his dose of DSM content. I've done this job once back when I worked for a performance shop and it was intense. You should be proud of yourself.
Nice to have you here! Although it isn’t a DSM per say, it does hold a lot of similarities to the DSM platforms. As far as the timing job goes, I’m just glad to have someone helping out. Wouldn’t have been able to do it on my own
There's a 6G72 engine service manual available if you search for it, this will show the Mitsubishi procedure for setting the tensioner and timing. There's a couple of points which people should be aware of and I'm not sure if you guys in this video followed by the book - but hopefully it works out for you. You don't pull the pin out of the auto-tensioner until you've turned the crank 1/4 anti-clockwise and then back 1/4 clockwise and check all timing marks line up, if they don't then redo steps beforehand, if they do THEN you are good to loosen and final set the tensioner pulley with the special tool to the correct torque, rotate the crank two turns clockwise and leave it alone a few minutes to settle and THEN you check that the pin can slide smoothly (not freely and not tightly) in and out of the auto-tensioner WITHOUT fully removing it. Check final auto-tensioner piston protrustion is ~4mm (+/- 0.2mm). If all that is good, pull the pin out completely.
I love how Mitsubishi makes specialty tools for this job but then they say to use paper clips to hold belt onto cam gears. I used zip ties when I did mine. Front cam jump when right at the timing marks is no joke.
Gates are good belts. A lot of people don't realize they were once an OE supplier for Mitsubishi. As with most belts, once the install is proper and no other interference comes such as bad pullies or leaks, they last just as well. Some crappy Chinese ones don't even last a year without the belt cracking... and that's something I always suggest doing once a year: pulling your cover and physically inspecting the belt.
Purpose of the washer is that if the rod fails the washer prevents the tensioner from going too loose and jump timing. I would have used a dab of JB weld. Use wide paper clips to hold the belt in place in the CAMS. Not sure if I would have used a vice grip. Not sure it it jist wasn't visible, but using the special pulley tool, you use a torque wrench (manual says needle stlye) to torque to 7ft/lbs and torque center bolt to 42ft/lbs. If you didn't use a TW on the first part than you may have the pulley over center.
I have the gates belt as well and its worked well for me so far. Also congrats on completing the job as this is about the hardest job you can do with the engine still in the car lol!
@@MiguelDsm Honestly man having just done it myself its less of a hassle than doing it in the car, it takes longer sure but its just less bullshit you have to put up with.
Aye that black evo 8 at the beginning was an evo I looked at and was going to trade my s2000 for. It ran bad so never went through with it! Lol anyways, awesome video bro. Major progress made!
Your really supposed to turn the engine over twice by hand with the pin still in the tensioner. If the pin still slides out after the second rotation you’re good. I made that mistake my first time doing this and I had to redo it haha.
Based on the rates of shops today, I’d say not cheap. It’s taken us around 4-6 hours thus far. That’s with everything going smoothly and taking our time
Just a dedicated Honda subscriber getting his dose of DSM content. I've done this job once back when I worked for a performance shop and it was intense. You should be proud of yourself.
Nice to have you here! Although it isn’t a DSM per say, it does hold a lot of similarities to the DSM platforms. As far as the timing job goes, I’m just glad to have someone helping out. Wouldn’t have been able to do it on my own
There's a 6G72 engine service manual available if you search for it, this will show the Mitsubishi procedure for setting the tensioner and timing. There's a couple of points which people should be aware of and I'm not sure if you guys in this video followed by the book - but hopefully it works out for you. You don't pull the pin out of the auto-tensioner until you've turned the crank 1/4 anti-clockwise and then back 1/4 clockwise and check all timing marks line up, if they don't then redo steps beforehand, if they do THEN you are good to loosen and final set the tensioner pulley with the special tool to the correct torque, rotate the crank two turns clockwise and leave it alone a few minutes to settle and THEN you check that the pin can slide smoothly (not freely and not tightly) in and out of the auto-tensioner WITHOUT fully removing it. Check final auto-tensioner piston protrustion is ~4mm (+/- 0.2mm). If all that is good, pull the pin out completely.
The VR4 is almost back. Good Video!
I love how Mitsubishi makes specialty tools for this job but then they say to use paper clips to hold belt onto cam gears. I used zip ties when I did mine. Front cam jump when right at the timing marks is no joke.
The Gates belt will be fine. It’s coming along nicely!
Good to hear. Hopefully soon!
Gates are good belts. A lot of people don't realize they were once an OE supplier for Mitsubishi. As with most belts, once the install is proper and no other interference comes such as bad pullies or leaks, they last just as well. Some crappy Chinese ones don't even last a year without the belt cracking... and that's something I always suggest doing once a year: pulling your cover and physically inspecting the belt.
Good to hear. Had a lot of people complaining about them. Might have been the water pump though
Man another cliffhanger lol. I wanna see it run!! Good progress tho!
The washer mod is to keep the hydraulic tensioner from retracting all the way if it fails. So your timing belt w ont jump teeth btw.
Thanks for the insight
I thought you had to stack the washers so it's flush with the tip of the thingy though?
Make sure you have an aftermarket fuel pressure regulator to go with that 450 fuel pump. The oem fpr can't keep up.
Already have the Turbosmart fuel pressure regulator on 👍🏼
Well done man! You killed it!
Purpose of the washer is that if the rod fails the washer prevents the tensioner from going too loose and jump timing. I would have used a dab of JB weld. Use wide paper clips to hold the belt in place in the CAMS. Not sure if I would have used a vice grip.
Not sure it it jist wasn't visible, but using the special pulley tool, you use a torque wrench (manual says needle stlye) to torque to 7ft/lbs and torque center bolt to 42ft/lbs. If you didn't use a TW on the first part than you may have the pulley over center.
I have the gates belt as well and its worked well for me so far. Also congrats on completing the job as this is about the hardest job you can do with the engine still in the car lol!
Glad to hear it only gets easier lol. Hoping to never have to remove the engine though
@@MiguelDsm Honestly man having just done it myself its less of a hassle than doing it in the car, it takes longer sure but its just less bullshit you have to put up with.
good job, I need to do my 60k soon
Hopefully this video helps 👍🏼
ima get this car soon but probably the base model, the car looks so good
All you need if you don’t care for performance 👍🏼 focus on maintenance though
Aye that black evo 8 at the beginning was an evo I looked at and was going to trade my s2000 for. It ran bad so never went through with it! Lol anyways, awesome video bro. Major progress made!
Needs a lot of work. Glad you didn’t get it haha
Nice update, Before you put new spark plugs in do a compression test again see if it went up or down from previous numbers.
Miguel. Why did you changed the washer on the tensioner? Oem doesn't work good?
Your really supposed to turn the engine over twice by hand with the pin still in the tensioner. If the pin still slides out after the second rotation you’re good. I made that mistake my first time doing this and I had to redo it haha.
Ayeee les get it!
Yessir!
No te olvides de los videos en Español migel
what kit did you use
Okay I’m confused. I’ve seen most people turn there engine clockwise twice when finishing the timing belt. Is that not necessary?
Is this thing running correctly?
On a scale of 1-10 how difficult would you rate the timing belt change?
I’d say a 6.5/10
I wouldn’t be able to do it without the guidance from Mays Performance. I do feel more comfortable doing it now though
I was a little nervous starting the car after doing this timing belt change for the first time
Hopefully this one starts up fine
Awesome
Thanks for watching! 🤘🏼
@@MiguelDsm 🤝
Necesito mucha ayuda con mi eclipse podrías ayudarme o sabrías de alguien en Kansas o tu mismo podrías venir a repararlo
should have replaced crank and cam seals while you had it all apart!
Whats the update brother? Is she running better now?
Still waiting on motor mounts. Been two weeks almost :/
If ever sell the vr4 let me know 😁
How fast can you make a 3000gt sl?
Not too sure tbh. I don’t think you can do much without forced induction
I’m curious to know what the price is on a job like this… yes I did get some value from this video.
Based on the rates of shops today, I’d say not cheap. It’s taken us around 4-6 hours thus far. That’s with everything going smoothly and taking our time
Usually about $2000
@@yellowdog2842 that’s not as bad as I was expecting. Is that a quote from this particular shop? Or, from what you’ve experienced before?
@@kiweeltyler3586 that’s what I’ve heard people pay in the past. Todays prices could be higher. There is a lot of labor involved
@@yellowdog2842 gotcha
You are already driving this thing by now x2
Yes? Am I correct his time? Haha, hope you are
Not yet 😅 hopefully going in next week to finish it up. I’m just as anxious, trust me lol
Damn! Haha good luck
What a headache lol
Id say so compared to a DSM. Wasn’t to bad following the owners manual and having Aaron from Mays there helping out
Hola, Porque ya no hay video en español de @MiguelDsm2.0
No me a dado tiempo bro. Algún día regresaré