@ I added the second, not just for more power, but to address some room issues. Still working on the tuning and placement, but much better overall. Small rooms can be tricky.
Adding a second sub can fill in voids where bass is missing. Some rooms have one hot spot and the rest of the room the bass disappears. Placement is difficult with only one sub, so adding one definitely helped me out with my situation.
Yes! 🎉 nice choice! I have a 12S ready to order that I’m adding to my system! The 12S has high level inputs and also lets you daisy chain a second sub off of it. I’ll have the 12S crossed over around 50-60hz then set the high pass crossover to my other 12” sub woofer to hopefully blend the 2!! 🎉. Unique feature of the 12S. Plus it has a remote which makes it easier to adjust further living in a townhouse! 🎉
I have the RSL 10s MKII as well, white with dark grey grill (looks sharp)... in a 14x20x8 room. I'm using the wireless head they sell and it functions flawlessly. I too like a more balanced low-end. It is plenty for my needs and sounds great. A really good sub from a good company. BTW... I'm using their CG23M as a center and love it. Mine is positioned vertically for better dispersion. Rounding out with Polk XT20s in the bed layer and XT90s for the top... a 5.1.4 Atmos setup.
I always wondered about RSL subwoofers I have two HTS12s in my dolby atmos 5.2.2 and one HTS12 in my bedroom from Polk audio. They recently came out with a new model that dose 18hz which the HTS12 only dose 20hz
Nice! I turned a spare bedroom into a theater too with a 7.2.4. My room is a bigger than yours, so I'm using two 10" subs up front for aesthetics. Tried opposing corners but got the same results as up front. Hopefully your seat isn't in a null. Good job either way.
I bought this sub last year, based on various RUclips reviews. It's fantastic for the price, and I haven't even done a proper calibration / room correction yet. This is the first sub I've owned, since I had to sell my beloved M&K S-150 front speakers, and MX350 sub in 2015. In my room, though, I found I had to move the sub closer to my MLP, else it was doing 'strange things'. It's probably to do with room modes in my small room, tbh. But I found that I got barely any output from the sub at lower volumes, then it would suddenly seem to kick in at a slightly higher volume. ie. It seemed more like a DSP thing, like it has some kind of reverse compressor? Hard to explain. Either way, it's probably just my setup, or some setting on the AVR. After buying the 10S MKII sub, and CG23M front three speakers, I bought six CG3M as well, for the side surrounds and four heights. lol
You should find the RSL sub to have very tight bass, more musical. I prefer that as well, rather than just pure low-end grunt, which can sometimes sound like a single-note. lol I like a sub to have good performance near the crossover point, so it mixes better with the main speakers. It might even be worth trying a slightly higher crossover point on the AVR, say 90 or 100Hz for the surround speakers. (even though the speakers you are using can probably dig well below 80 Hz.)
Wait.. I don’t recall you reviewing your choice of seating? Btw. This is literally the system I’ve drawn up when it comes time to move up in systems. 🎉
Around the ten minutes mark, lights are off, but the screen is reflecting off the two front wall sconces. Why would he want that, isn’t that a distraction somewhat? Great room tho
Any subwoofer that you have to engage LFE mode and not even get to a 20 Hz extension is not a subwoofer. It's smoke and mirrors. I'm getting it from the website that all you'll get is maybe 22 Hz and I'm guessing that is a minus 3DB point. My SVS don't require EQ to do their job.
@ Oh yes, of course. I had the SB 2k and now I have the SB 3k. (However, even their SB 1k pro is 20Hz, backed up by SVS under warranty.) Now, I also own the PB 1k Pro and after a good break in, it's an effortless dive below 20Hz. Quakepowerz on YT has amazing break-in mixes. There's an online tone generator free on the web that will emit 20 and below.
@@demonreturns4336Yes. Their return policy of 45 days gives you freedom to learn the sub and how you feel it has or doesn't have. In my case, the SB 3k digs with more authority (bigger driver, it should), and the musicality, again after a good break-in is very detailed. You can track your break-in on the app. What I mean is if you try to get good loudness and/or deep bass on let's say -10 if you break it in gently at first and then give it some more gas, you will find that you can lower the volume setting to almost -20 and get the same performance and loudness as you were at -10 which they consider their reference level. Break-in is real. You have to be aware of any type of cone rattle because it is a sealed sub. You cannot beat it up at first like you can with the ported model. My LPF is at 80. No room gain or eq.
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It's good to see the size of the room dictate the size of the subwoofer. Having the freedom to be let loose is when it's at.
Bravo 👍🏼
I have a room that’s a little bit bigger, and I’m rocking two of the bigger brothers, the 12S. It’s so awesome!!! RSL rules!
Dang dual 12s must be rocking when I had it one was great
@ I added the second, not just for more power, but to address some room issues. Still working on the tuning and placement, but much better overall. Small rooms can be tricky.
Adding a second sub can fill in voids where bass is missing. Some rooms have one hot spot and the rest of the room the bass disappears. Placement is difficult with only one sub, so adding one definitely helped me out with my situation.
Yes! 🎉 nice choice! I have a 12S ready to order that I’m adding to my system! The 12S has high level inputs and also lets you daisy chain a second sub off of it. I’ll have the 12S crossed over around 50-60hz then set the high pass crossover to my other 12” sub woofer to hopefully blend the 2!! 🎉. Unique feature of the 12S. Plus it has a remote which makes it easier to adjust further living in a townhouse! 🎉
Love how this is all coming together!
I have the RSL 10s MKII as well, white with dark grey grill (looks sharp)... in a 14x20x8 room. I'm using the wireless head they sell and it functions flawlessly. I too like a more balanced low-end. It is plenty for my needs and sounds great. A really good sub from a good company.
BTW... I'm using their CG23M as a center and love it. Mine is positioned vertically for better dispersion. Rounding out with Polk XT20s in the bed layer and XT90s for the top... a 5.1.4 Atmos setup.
This is a perfect sub for a room of this size.
Nice. I keep reading that the 10E is also superb value ($300 currently I think).
I always wondered about RSL subwoofers I have two HTS12s in my dolby atmos 5.2.2 and one HTS12 in my bedroom from Polk audio. They recently came out with a new model that dose 18hz which the HTS12 only dose 20hz
Nice! I turned a spare bedroom into a theater too with a 7.2.4. My room is a bigger than yours, so I'm using two 10" subs up front for aesthetics. Tried opposing corners but got the same results as up front. Hopefully your seat isn't in a null. Good job either way.
Thanks! So far things are sounding great. I plan to run some measurements to see what the sub is doing.
I bought this sub last year, based on various RUclips reviews.
It's fantastic for the price, and I haven't even done a proper calibration / room correction yet.
This is the first sub I've owned, since I had to sell my beloved M&K S-150 front speakers, and MX350 sub in 2015.
In my room, though, I found I had to move the sub closer to my MLP, else it was doing 'strange things'.
It's probably to do with room modes in my small room, tbh.
But I found that I got barely any output from the sub at lower volumes, then it would suddenly seem to kick in at a slightly higher volume.
ie. It seemed more like a DSP thing, like it has some kind of reverse compressor? Hard to explain.
Either way, it's probably just my setup, or some setting on the AVR.
After buying the 10S MKII sub, and CG23M front three speakers, I bought six CG3M as well, for the side surrounds and four heights. lol
You should find the RSL sub to have very tight bass, more musical.
I prefer that as well, rather than just pure low-end grunt, which can sometimes sound like a single-note. lol
I like a sub to have good performance near the crossover point, so it mixes better with the main speakers.
It might even be worth trying a slightly higher crossover point on the AVR, say 90 or 100Hz for the surround speakers.
(even though the speakers you are using can probably dig well below 80 Hz.)
stars :)
Wait.. I don’t recall you reviewing your choice of seating?
Btw. This is literally the system I’ve drawn up when it comes time to move up in systems. 🎉
I reviewed them a while ago in my basement theater. They won’t be in the tiny theater long-term. Got something really cool in the works 🤫
Are Valencia Tuscany Executive Chairs The Solution?
ruclips.net/video/7GqX88Po1c8/видео.html
Thought you would have went with Starke SW15 especially when they are on sale for 2 for $1000!!
I have two 15” subs in my main theater. If I did that in this tiny room it would rattle the fillings out of my teeth 😆😆
Around the ten minutes mark, lights are off, but the screen is reflecting off the two front wall sconces. Why would he want that, isn’t that a distraction somewhat? Great room tho
I can relate to having a tiny home theater sector. Mine will rattle the entire house, SMH.
Haha- you might not need a remote I think you might be able to reach the volume control with your toes! ;)
😆😆 pretty much!
Rsl is good people
Give us a video comparing atmos vs just ur bottom layer. I have a similar room dont think atmos its a benefit
Excellent suggestion. Thanks!
Any subwoofer that you have to engage LFE mode and not even get to a 20 Hz extension is not a subwoofer. It's smoke and mirrors. I'm getting it from the website that all you'll get is maybe 22 Hz and I'm guessing that is a minus 3DB point. My SVS don't require EQ to do their job.
It would help to say what SVS you got so ppl in your situation can go for that
@ Oh yes, of course. I had the SB 2k and now I have the SB 3k. (However, even their SB 1k pro is 20Hz, backed up by SVS under warranty.) Now, I also own the PB 1k Pro and after a good break in, it's an effortless dive below 20Hz. Quakepowerz on YT has amazing break-in mixes. There's an online tone generator free on the web that will emit 20 and below.
@ thanks friend 🙏
The SB3 vs the SB2
I’m going to guess that you probably like the SB3 much better than the SB2 right?
@@demonreturns4336Yes. Their return policy of 45 days gives you freedom to learn the sub and how you feel it has or doesn't have. In my case, the SB 3k digs with more authority (bigger driver, it should), and the musicality, again after a good break-in is very detailed. You can track your break-in on the app. What I mean is if you try to get good loudness and/or deep bass on let's say -10 if you break it in gently at first and then give it some more gas, you will find that you can lower the volume setting to almost -20 and get the same performance and loudness as you were at -10 which they consider their reference level. Break-in is real. You have to be aware of any type of cone rattle because it is a sealed sub. You cannot beat it up at first like you can with the ported model. My LPF is at 80. No room gain or eq.
Will you be watching a film starring Tiny Tom Cruise? 🤔😉 (One for Family Guy fans. 😁)
😆😆