Well, yes, for most components - it's great to show how they are removed. But much like replacing a starter- on this particular engine model and for the Chevy Venture - you can't see anything with a camera. In hindsight, it would have been prudent to shoot a little video of the new EGR valve showing where the bolts attach, after removing the part from the box. But, there is no space, even for a cell phone to fit back in there, to obtain removal footage and install footage, of the bolts. That is why I spent quite a bit of time explaining all the tools you'll need and the fact that most EGR valves are a simple, 30-minute job, but this one takes about 4 hours. You'll see if you work on this particular model vehicle and engine, what I'm talking about. Most EGR valves though, very simple stuff. Good luck with your repair.
@@VintageVideos2009The problem I have is that there’s a whole other hose bolted to the back of the EGR Valve (2000 Pontiac Montana). I might’ve realized our EGR valves were different before getting stuck there if you showed it. :( Now My EGR valve is “rocking around” like yours but still tethered by a bolt I can’t get leverage on (while EGR valve moves). Only option was to put the bolts I fought with for hours back in and, of course, I dropped one deep into the engine bay. Now I only hope the THIRD bolt isn’t damaged from being forced to try without proper leverage. What a nightmare!
WARNING! Some models, like my 2000 Pontiac Montana Luxury, have a hose bolted to the back of the EGR valve. If you remove those two bolts the EGR valve “rocking a little bit” will prevent you from getting the leverage you need on the THIRD bolt that no one seems to mention. I tried to put the two 10mm bolts back and the nightmare is still continuing since one is now stuck deep in the engine and the third bolt is now slightly damaged (I think it’s actually a 3/8”). It’s even less accessible than the two you discuss! Every video I can find about this job only refers to the two 10mm bolt so that means others who have the alternate EGR Valve and plumbing are going to get blindsided by this, same as me. Hope they read the comments!
Yes, for all the casual viewers who think "every" EGR valve is a 30-minute job, some of these 2000-era minivans are horrible designs. Sorry about your 3-bolt set...I thought the 2-bolt job was challenging enough. I hope it all works out for you, and your Pontiac is back in service soon. Thanks for sharing the difficulties if your situation.
Hi Jorge, you are so right. This particular make/model and its EGR set-up are so much more time-consuming to repair or replace than on many other vehicles. This should be a simple 20-30 minute job, but not so on this vehicle. Thanks for watching and sharing your experience.
no problem! Yes, I'm currently working on mine and godly it's a hassle. Like for instants as it shows in your video: the EGR Valve, car battery, radiator, air filter box which took me a minute to notice that there was a bolt inside the air filter box which on top of that you don't have enough room to squeeze in your hand in there to unscrew. I can go on but you already know lol
@@chopnit0888 Yes, the EGR replacement for this particular make/model is such a pain. Then you have some other viewers comment that it took them 20 minutes...Well yes, if for most vehicles an EGR valve tends to be very accessible - NOT FOR THIS CHEVY VENTURE SET UP. I hope you were able to get the repair done and your vehicle gives you years of great service.
@@VintageVideos2009thanks! I wished I'd I got everything going, but like I said this car gives you nothing, but problems after the other. 🤦🏽♂ now there's this clanking noise coming from where the timing belt is, not sure if I should change the belt, idler tension, and pulley. Have you had this issue before?
@@chopnit0888 Hi, thanks for the comments and question. I did not have this issue, but I do know that older vehicles can have defective idler pulleys and sometimes the serpentine belt will freeze up, or become erratic and start smoking or you smell rubber. The knocking (ticking or whining usually) can be a bad water pump too, although you may notice coolant leaking - though sometimes there's little coolant loss. Also, sometimes your lifters make excessive noise - check you oil level and age. Perhaps consider an engine additive? Before doing a timing belt change, maybe you want to visit a shop for a free quote, to get a 2nd opinion? A timing belt is not expensive, but it can take 5-10 hours to complete. Good luck.
I would love to have seen how you got the pipe on the backside of it loose. I'm dealing with one right now and the bolt is stuck. No idea how I'm going to get it loose without rounding the bolt. A bit of constructive criticism: show us more than 3 minutes of footage for a job that took hours.
Hello Worse Than Fiction Podcast - thanks for sharing your ideas. Let me start with your last comment, about showing only 3 minutes of this tedious and incredibly challenging job. Honestly - If I showed my swearing, cursing, yelling and complaining for 25 minutes, I don't think I would have gotten 1,000 views. That is just the honest RUclips truth with not moving things along. So, did you read my description: Only two 10mm bolts need to be removed, but the access is very limited, making this a labor-filled job. You'll want to have a small 1/4" ratchet, a variety of extension and flex adapters to gain access and remove the old unit. We opted to replace the part, because the job is so time-consuming, rather than clean it, knowing we might have to do this job again in 6-12 months. This is a horrible job. I know that. Other EGR jobs can be completed in 30 minutes or less. NOT THIS ONE! So, my advice, is to have a lot of various extensions, and flex adapters to find something that fits the bolts - before you round them off. I wish I could share more, and show better views, but some components - like this EGR valve, and some starters, are just placed so deeply inside the engine compartment, that showing great visibility is extremely difficult. I did get that bolt loose, by using a 1/4" ratchet, 1/4" 45% flex adaptor extension, and socket. It barely fit, you'll need both hands, to hold on the bolt, other to turn the ratchet - that's why I was not able to provide video footage. It is extremely challenging. I hope you are able to get it removed and replaced.
@@VintageVideos2009 I'm doing this on a 2004 Buick Rendezvous. Same engine, same orientation, but there is a rigid pipe from the manifold that's bolted into the back of the egr itself. That's the only thing I'm struggling with. The transmission dipstick is directly in the way of that one bolt, and I can't get enough leverage with a 10mm wrench to break it loose. I understand the cussing and yelling with this one. I would have liked to see how you approached it, that's all.
@@Jethu262 OK, your job with the Buick sounds even worse than mine with the Chevy. I found it interesting when other viewers commented that this job should only take 20-30 minutes. Uh yeah, unless it's on this model/make/year of vehicle. I hope you get it fixed - not easy!
@@VintageVideos2009 success! I went ahead and put a new thermostat and air filter on it while I was in there, and she's running great. I think the thermostat was more of a pain than the EGR valve.
every video i have seen so far bout this replacement does not tell you that it needs to be bled after installation.Why are they not telling folks this? i looked it up on a gut feeling and some years need to be bled.
Hi, thanks for watching and sharing your comments. Interesting thoughts about bleeding this EGR valve? Based on the manufacturers part installation - the Manufacturer did not mention bleeding this part following installation. However, after the installation, your onboard computer will recalibrate to this new EGR part, and should both eliminate your "check engine" light and return your vehicle to optimum running condition. There is no coolant traveling through this system, unlike thermostats - thus no coolant to bleed. Is that the question or concern? The EGR valve does not control the flow of coolant. Thanks for your comment. Not sure if all our other viewers have some other experience with the EGR valve and want to weigh in?
Yes, absolutely. Some EGR valves are done in 20 minutes, but getting to this particular spot - man, that's a hassle isn't it! Thanks for watching and sharing your experience Bill. I hope you never have to replace that EGR valve again!
Hi Silas, on the engine model and vehicle I've shared on this video, it was not necessary to remove the pipe, that the EGR valve was attached to. I'm not sure what vehicle you are working on, but the pipe removal was not part of this repair. We are glad about that, because the access to the EGR valve bolts was challenging enough and took about 4 hours. Thanks and good luck on your vehicle repair.
I got it off and I can't get it back on. I work on this shit for a living and this is the first time I have had to do one of these. I can't for the life of me get the damn hose to go back on so I can thread the bolt. Any tip on how to get it to go back into the valve other than pray?
@@VintageVideos2009That’s not entirely true. It seems there are variants even with the same year model, probably between 50-state vs. 49-state emissions configurations. You called it “Chevy 3.4L V6 Engine” and the description says it’s a year 2000, which is EXACTLY the same vehicle/engine I have. Other than superfluous options, it’s exactly the same as a 2000 Oldsmobile Silhouette or Pontiac Montana. One might not be available in both wheel bases or with a tach on the gauge cluster, one might have red or blue lighting, etc but they are all the same van, especially when it comes to the engine. This extra hose has been a nightmare for me and word of it deserves to be pinned. Thanks!
@@emmettturner9452 Thanks for sharing your unique engine configuration and issues. Hopefully, anyone that has a similar model will be aware of the difficulties now.
Hey jeremypalmer7177, Well, for me, it would be GM engineering! For something so simple, as replacing an EGR valve, which will fail after maybe 60-80k miles - a replacement that is so easy on 90% of other vehicles, is such a huge pain-in-the-butt on this make and model. I know on my previous 1997 Chevy Venture, with the same 3.4L engine, the EGR valve was a very simple 20-minute job. So, yeah, I'm blaming the GM engineers for their choice on how to place this component. I hope you were able to get the job done, but I know it's one I would not like to do again, due in large part to the frustration level of it. Hey, thanks for watching and sharing your comments.
You may have to reset your code with a scan tool and drive it for about 50 miles for the computer to complete it's cycle. If you do not have a scanning tool, you could also remove the engine plenum and see if there is a build up of debris that needs to be removed with throttle body cleaner. That could be another source for the P0401 issue. Thanks for watching and good luck on the repair.
Hi Bob McGrath, thanks for your comments. You are right that the vehicle's computer will reset, if the battery is disconnected. However, if your vehicle was showing a fault code due to a bad EGR Valve, you may need to drive the vehicle in order for the computer to determine the new part is working properly. We've found that even with disconnecting the battery, the vehicle will pass the emissions test within about 100 miles of driving.
If you go to all that trouble to remove it, why not check it's operation and see if it's "pin" is simply stuck and can be fixed by cleaning as well as the ports being dirty and clogged? Also, a quick electrical test can be done in a few minutes or less with any $10 multimeter. Before removing the unit. By 2005, at least GM moved it's troublesome EGR valve to a slightly more accessible location. Never had a problem with them in 45 years of driving until I bought a used Century. Thankfully, what you need to know are on all these videos.
Hi D.E., thanks for your comments. You make some very valid points. It was my intention to merely check the unit and if possible, clean it, and replace it. But after hours of a tedious and frustrating removal process - what if I cleaned it, and it worked for a month, and I had to spend another 6-8 hours doing a removal? UH - NO THANK YOU! Same type of issue with the electrical test - or CODE telling me this part was defective. Once I got the unit out - I was putting a new one in. No use in skimping on a replacement part cost in my opinion, when the replacement procedure is by far the worst part of this job. Other EGR replacements on many Chevy models, including on later models of this Venture require about 30 minutes of work - but not this one! This is only the 2nd EGR valve I've ever replaced myself - so it is a somewhat infrequent issue. You make some great valid points and we appreciate your knowledge. Thanks again for sharing.
Hi Michael, by installing this new EGR valve, the fault code was cleared and the minivan's full performance was restored. We know some people will clean their old or original EGR valves and return them to use. But this particular engine set up is a pain to remove and replace the EGR valve, so we opted to install a brand new unit, rather having to spend hours if the old/original "cleaned" unit would fail 9 months from the re-install date. Thanks for watching and sharing your question.
Surprised you don't mention that as often as not, (if not more so) the problem isn't the EGR valve in the first place. Oh sure, when the dreaded P0401 code will come up, folks see the words EGR and presume that well, must change the named error. (only after changing the EGR, the P0401 shows up again few k miles later) As I note below, this is a MISERABLE job to get at on the GM 2k vans, if you're just going after the EGR.... (as its situated back behind throttle body, nearly under van firewall.) Did it twice on our beloved family 2000 Montana over the years.... Figured after all the fuming/fussing to get to the EGR, I'd just replace it. (while there, I'd lamely try to clean up the carb, intake plenum, etc....) But even though I'm saving hundreds avoiding the shop labor, I'm wondering if I've been barking up the wrong tree. Now I've since learned (from other sources) that very often the problem is more with a clogged up plenum.... which you can get at by removing the carb housing. (rather easier than trying to take the EGR valve off from behind anyway)..... If need be (for intense crud build-up inside the plenum), I see I can even remove it.... Beats having to do battle simply with an EGR replacement -- and then after all that misery, having the EGR light come back on again in a few months. (cuz the plenum is clogging) Will try it this week and report back....
Occurs to me I'm not nearly appreciative enough of your video (no excuse, but I've been putting off having to do this job now for the third time... ) You do fairly warn viewers that this is not an easy job, and your approach actually is quite helpful, as far as you go. This time, however, I'm going to examine/clean out the carb and the entire plenum.... could be a whole day mess. :-(
Hi hugh3rdof5, thanks for sharing your experiences and research on this item in the GM minivans. Cleaning the plenum of deposits could potentially resolve the issue. At the very least, it is easier and than the arduous EGR replacement. Replacing the EGR valve one time was quite enough of a task for me, and that's why I recommended replacing with a new model rather than cleaning, and having the dreaded P0401 code come on. I hope everything goes well for you! Again, thanks for watching and sharing your comments.
On this particular model, you can either choose to roll the engine forward and spend extra time doing all of that, or try and reach behind with a multitude of ratchets, extensions, adapters. This really is a horrible design. Thanks for watching Ty!
Hi hugh3rdof5, we realize most EGR valve replacements are a very simple 20-minute job, however on this minivan 3400 engine model, due to the confined space and obstructions, it's very difficult to access the bolts to remove the EGR valve. I considered tilting the engine forward, but I wasn't sure it would provide any additional working space to make this job easier. Thanks for sharing your experiences with us!
Hi Sean Lehue, thanks for watching and sharing your experience. Yes, on many models this job is relatively easy. However on this particular Chevy Venture, the EGR valve bolts were placed in a horrible location, making the access for removal very difficult. So, what year/make/model vehicle were you working on?
Skipped over the actual removal and install!
Well, yes, for most components - it's great to show how they are removed. But much like replacing a starter- on this particular engine model and for the Chevy Venture - you can't see anything with a camera. In hindsight, it would have been prudent to shoot a little video of the new EGR valve showing where the bolts attach, after removing the part from the box. But, there is no space, even for a cell phone to fit back in there, to obtain removal footage and install footage, of the bolts. That is why I spent quite a bit of time explaining all the tools you'll need and the fact that most EGR valves are a simple, 30-minute job, but this one takes about 4 hours. You'll see if you work on this particular model vehicle and engine, what I'm talking about. Most EGR valves though, very simple stuff. Good luck with your repair.
@@VintageVideos2009The problem I have is that there’s a whole other hose bolted to the back of the EGR Valve (2000 Pontiac Montana). I might’ve realized our EGR valves were different before getting stuck there if you showed it. :( Now My EGR valve is “rocking around” like yours but still tethered by a bolt I can’t get leverage on (while EGR valve moves). Only option was to put the bolts I fought with for hours back in and, of course, I dropped one deep into the engine bay. Now I only hope the THIRD bolt isn’t damaged from being forced to try without proper leverage. What a nightmare!
WARNING! Some models, like my 2000 Pontiac Montana Luxury, have a hose bolted to the back of the EGR valve. If you remove those two bolts the EGR valve “rocking a little bit” will prevent you from getting the leverage you need on the THIRD bolt that no one seems to mention. I tried to put the two 10mm bolts back and the nightmare is still continuing since one is now stuck deep in the engine and the third bolt is now slightly damaged (I think it’s actually a 3/8”). It’s even less accessible than the two you discuss!
Every video I can find about this job only refers to the two 10mm bolt so that means others who have the alternate EGR Valve and plumbing are going to get blindsided by this, same as me. Hope they read the comments!
Yes, for all the casual viewers who think "every" EGR valve is a 30-minute job, some of these 2000-era minivans are horrible designs. Sorry about your 3-bolt set...I thought the 2-bolt job was challenging enough. I hope it all works out for you, and your Pontiac is back in service soon. Thanks for sharing the difficulties if your situation.
These type of Chevy's are a pain in the ass when it comes to unscrewing certain parts.
Hi Jorge, you are so right. This particular make/model and its EGR set-up are so much more time-consuming to repair or replace than on many other vehicles. This should be a simple 20-30 minute job, but not so on this vehicle. Thanks for watching and sharing your experience.
no problem! Yes, I'm currently working on mine and godly it's a hassle. Like for instants as it shows in your video: the EGR Valve, car battery, radiator, air filter box which took me a minute to notice that there was a bolt inside the air filter box which on top of that you don't have enough room to squeeze in your hand in there to unscrew. I can go on but you already know lol
@@chopnit0888 Yes, the EGR replacement for this particular make/model is such a pain. Then you have some other viewers comment that it took them 20 minutes...Well yes, if for most vehicles an EGR valve tends to be very accessible - NOT FOR THIS CHEVY VENTURE SET UP. I hope you were able to get the repair done and your vehicle gives you years of great service.
@@VintageVideos2009thanks! I wished I'd I got everything going, but like I said this car gives you nothing, but problems after the other. 🤦🏽♂ now there's this clanking noise coming from where the timing belt is, not sure if I should change the belt, idler tension, and pulley. Have you had this issue before?
@@chopnit0888 Hi, thanks for the comments and question. I did not have this issue, but I do know that older vehicles can have defective idler pulleys and sometimes the serpentine belt will freeze up, or become erratic and start smoking or you smell rubber. The knocking (ticking or whining usually) can be a bad water pump too, although you may notice coolant leaking - though sometimes there's little coolant loss. Also, sometimes your lifters make excessive noise - check you oil level and age. Perhaps consider an engine additive? Before doing a timing belt change, maybe you want to visit a shop for a free quote, to get a 2nd opinion? A timing belt is not expensive, but it can take 5-10 hours to complete. Good luck.
I would love to have seen how you got the pipe on the backside of it loose. I'm dealing with one right now and the bolt is stuck. No idea how I'm going to get it loose without rounding the bolt.
A bit of constructive criticism: show us more than 3 minutes of footage for a job that took hours.
Hello Worse Than Fiction Podcast - thanks for sharing your ideas. Let me start with your last comment, about showing only 3 minutes of this tedious and incredibly challenging job. Honestly - If I showed my swearing, cursing, yelling and complaining for 25 minutes, I don't think I would have gotten 1,000 views. That is just the honest RUclips truth with not moving things along.
So, did you read my description: Only two 10mm bolts need to be removed, but the access is very limited, making this a labor-filled job. You'll want to have a small 1/4" ratchet, a variety of extension and flex adapters to gain access and remove the old unit. We opted to replace the part, because the job is so time-consuming, rather than clean it, knowing we might have to do this job again in 6-12 months.
This is a horrible job. I know that. Other EGR jobs can be completed in 30 minutes or less. NOT THIS ONE! So, my advice, is to have a lot of various extensions, and flex adapters to find something that fits the bolts - before you round them off.
I wish I could share more, and show better views, but some components - like this EGR valve, and some starters, are just placed so deeply inside the engine compartment, that showing great visibility is extremely difficult.
I did get that bolt loose, by using a 1/4" ratchet, 1/4" 45% flex adaptor extension, and socket. It barely fit, you'll need both hands, to hold on the bolt, other to turn the ratchet - that's why I was not able to provide video footage. It is extremely challenging. I hope you are able to get it removed and replaced.
@@VintageVideos2009 I'm doing this on a 2004 Buick Rendezvous. Same engine, same orientation, but there is a rigid pipe from the manifold that's bolted into the back of the egr itself. That's the only thing I'm struggling with. The transmission dipstick is directly in the way of that one bolt, and I can't get enough leverage with a 10mm wrench to break it loose.
I understand the cussing and yelling with this one. I would have liked to see how you approached it, that's all.
@@Jethu262 OK, your job with the Buick sounds even worse than mine with the Chevy. I found it interesting when other viewers commented that this job should only take 20-30 minutes. Uh yeah, unless it's on this model/make/year of vehicle. I hope you get it fixed - not easy!
@@VintageVideos2009 success!
I went ahead and put a new thermostat and air filter on it while I was in there, and she's running great.
I think the thermostat was more of a pain than the EGR valve.
every video i have seen so far bout this replacement does not tell you that it needs to be bled after installation.Why are they not telling folks this? i looked it up on a gut feeling and some years need to be bled.
Hi, thanks for watching and sharing your comments. Interesting thoughts about bleeding this EGR valve? Based on the manufacturers part installation - the Manufacturer did not mention bleeding this part following installation. However, after the installation, your onboard computer will recalibrate to this new EGR part, and should both eliminate your "check engine" light and return your vehicle to optimum running condition. There is no coolant traveling through this system, unlike thermostats - thus no coolant to bleed. Is that the question or concern? The EGR valve does not control the flow of coolant. Thanks for your comment. Not sure if all our other viewers have some other experience with the EGR valve and want to weigh in?
Replacing the valve is easy
Getting to it sux!
Yes, absolutely. Some EGR valves are done in 20 minutes, but getting to this particular spot - man, that's a hassle isn't it! Thanks for watching and sharing your experience Bill. I hope you never have to replace that EGR valve again!
He is not telling you all of the story ! There is a a pipe hooked to it that is connected to the exhaust manifold . Its a a mother to take off!
Hi Silas, on the engine model and vehicle I've shared on this video, it was not necessary to remove the pipe, that the EGR valve was attached to. I'm not sure what vehicle you are working on, but the pipe removal was not part of this repair. We are glad about that, because the access to the EGR valve bolts was challenging enough and took about 4 hours. Thanks and good luck on your vehicle repair.
Do you need to take the pipe off or just the screw that attaches the valve to that pipe? Thanks
I got it off and I can't get it back on. I work on this shit for a living and this is the first time I have had to do one of these. I can't for the life of me get the damn hose to go back on so I can thread the bolt. Any tip on how to get it to go back into the valve other than pray?
@@VintageVideos2009That’s not entirely true. It seems there are variants even with the same year model, probably between 50-state vs. 49-state emissions configurations. You called it “Chevy 3.4L V6 Engine” and the description says it’s a year 2000, which is EXACTLY the same vehicle/engine I have. Other than superfluous options, it’s exactly the same as a 2000 Oldsmobile Silhouette or Pontiac Montana. One might not be available in both wheel bases or with a tach on the gauge cluster, one might have red or blue lighting, etc but they are all the same van, especially when it comes to the engine.
This extra hose has been a nightmare for me and word of it deserves to be pinned. Thanks!
@@emmettturner9452 Thanks for sharing your unique engine configuration and issues. Hopefully, anyone that has a similar model will be aware of the difficulties now.
Idk who to send my hate email too. The EPA or GM engineering?
Hey jeremypalmer7177, Well, for me, it would be GM engineering! For something so simple, as replacing an EGR valve, which will fail after maybe 60-80k miles - a replacement that is so easy on 90% of other vehicles, is such a huge pain-in-the-butt on this make and model. I know on my previous 1997 Chevy Venture, with the same 3.4L engine, the EGR valve was a very simple 20-minute job. So, yeah, I'm blaming the GM engineers for their choice on how to place this component. I hope you were able to get the job done, but I know it's one I would not like to do again, due in large part to the frustration level of it. Hey, thanks for watching and sharing your comments.
I replaced the EGR valve on my chevy venture but the P0401 code still comes up.
You may have to reset your code with a scan tool and drive it for about 50 miles for the computer to complete it's cycle. If you do not have a scanning tool, you could also remove the engine plenum and see if there is a build up of debris that needs to be removed with throttle body cleaner. That could be another source for the P0401 issue. Thanks for watching and good luck on the repair.
como alinear los faros delantefros
However if you are selling your car and need to provide a passing emissions test, do NOT disconnect the battery or you won't pass the test!
Hi Bob McGrath, thanks for your comments. You are right that the vehicle's computer will reset, if the battery is disconnected. However, if your vehicle was showing a fault code due to a bad EGR Valve, you may need to drive the vehicle in order for the computer to determine the new part is working properly. We've found that even with disconnecting the battery, the vehicle will pass the emissions test within about 100 miles of driving.
If you go to all that trouble to remove it, why not check it's operation and see if it's "pin" is simply stuck and can be fixed by cleaning as well as the ports being dirty and clogged? Also, a quick electrical test can be done in a few minutes or less with any $10 multimeter. Before removing the unit. By 2005, at least GM moved it's troublesome EGR valve to a slightly more accessible location. Never had a problem with them in 45 years of driving until I bought a used Century. Thankfully, what you need to know are on all these videos.
Hi D.E., thanks for your comments. You make some very valid points. It was my intention to merely check the unit and if possible, clean it, and replace it. But after hours of a tedious and frustrating removal process - what if I cleaned it, and it worked for a month, and I had to spend another 6-8 hours doing a removal? UH - NO THANK YOU! Same type of issue with the electrical test - or CODE telling me this part was defective. Once I got the unit out - I was putting a new one in. No use in skimping on a replacement part cost in my opinion, when the replacement procedure is by far the worst part of this job. Other EGR replacements on many Chevy models, including on later models of this Venture require about 30 minutes of work - but not this one! This is only the 2nd EGR valve I've ever replaced myself - so it is a somewhat infrequent issue. You make some great valid points and we appreciate your knowledge. Thanks again for sharing.
Pontiac aztek 3.4 EGR valve
Did this clear that service engine soon light?
Hi Michael, by installing this new EGR valve, the fault code was cleared and the minivan's full performance was restored. We know some people will clean their old or original EGR valves and return them to use. But this particular engine set up is a pain to remove and replace the EGR valve, so we opted to install a brand new unit, rather having to spend hours if the old/original "cleaned" unit would fail 9 months from the re-install date. Thanks for watching and sharing your question.
Surprised you don't mention that as often as not, (if not more so) the problem isn't the EGR valve in the first place. Oh sure, when the dreaded P0401 code will come up, folks see the words EGR and presume that well, must change the named error. (only after changing the EGR, the P0401 shows up again few k miles later) As I note below, this is a MISERABLE job to get at on the GM 2k vans, if you're just going after the EGR.... (as its situated back behind throttle body, nearly under van firewall.) Did it twice on our beloved family 2000 Montana over the years.... Figured after all the fuming/fussing to get to the EGR, I'd just replace it. (while there, I'd lamely try to clean up the carb, intake plenum, etc....) But even though I'm saving hundreds avoiding the shop labor, I'm wondering if I've been barking up the wrong tree. Now I've since learned (from other sources) that very often the problem is more with a clogged up plenum.... which you can get at by removing the carb housing. (rather easier than trying to take the EGR valve off from behind anyway)..... If need be (for intense crud build-up inside the plenum), I see I can even remove it.... Beats having to do battle simply with an EGR replacement -- and then after all that misery, having the EGR light come back on again in a few months. (cuz the plenum is clogging) Will try it this week and report back....
Occurs to me I'm not nearly appreciative enough of your video (no excuse, but I've been putting off having to do this job now for the third time... ) You do fairly warn viewers that this is not an easy job, and your approach actually is quite helpful, as far as you go. This time, however, I'm going to examine/clean out the carb and the entire plenum.... could be a whole day mess. :-(
Hi hugh3rdof5, thanks for sharing your experiences and research on this item in the GM minivans. Cleaning the plenum of deposits could potentially resolve the issue. At the very least, it is easier and than the arduous EGR replacement. Replacing the EGR valve one time was quite enough of a task for me, and that's why I recommended replacing with a new model rather than cleaning, and having the dreaded P0401 code come on. I hope everything goes well for you! Again, thanks for watching and sharing your comments.
5 hours to remove air box and to disconnect a few tings
On this particular model, you can either choose to roll the engine forward and spend extra time doing all of that, or try and reach behind with a multitude of ratchets, extensions, adapters. This really is a horrible design. Thanks for watching Ty!
30 mins from start to finish including cleaning. 5 hours Thats funny
Same make, model vehicle?
I concur. I have a 200 Pontiac Montana, and did this MISERABLE job twice -- SEVERAL hours each time. (if you're lucky) Helps to tilt engine forward.
Hi hugh3rdof5, we realize most EGR valve replacements are a very simple 20-minute job, however on this minivan 3400 engine model, due to the confined space and obstructions, it's very difficult to access the bolts to remove the EGR valve. I considered tilting the engine forward, but I wasn't sure it would provide any additional working space to make this job easier. Thanks for sharing your experiences with us!
Took me 30 minutes
Hi Sean Lehue, thanks for watching and sharing your experience. Yes, on many models this job is relatively easy. However on this particular Chevy Venture, the EGR valve bolts were placed in a horrible location, making the access for removal very difficult. So, what year/make/model vehicle were you working on?