Black Dragon Ceramic Repair
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- Опубликовано: 29 янв 2017
- I repair a black ceramic dragon statue, assisted by my wife, and ever-helpful camera person, Ellen Wight. I wrote and performed the music used in this video: from one of my 1980's CDs.
Learn more about my restoration business, including contact information at my web site: www.tesserak.com
Here are some of the tools and materials I use in my restoration business.
A+B brand epoxy putty: www.aplusbputty.com/epoxy-put...
A+B brand epoxy paste: www.aplusbputty.com/fast-past...
Milliput epoxy putty: www.milliput.com/products.html
HXTAL-Nyl 1 liquid clear epoxy (for glass and porcelain): www.hxtal.com/
Micro Mesh sandpaper: micro-surface.com/micro-mesh-...
Sylmasta brand Cold Glaze Pro System: sylmasta.net/product-category...
Sylmasta brand Ultimate Gold/Silver (6 color set): sylmasta.net/product-category...
Iwata Airbrushes and accessories: www.iwata-airbrush.com/
Medea airbrush cleaner: www.iwata-airbrush.com/medea-...
Golden brand acrylic paints and mediums: www.goldenpaints.com/
Rub n' Buff: www.allartsupplies.com/item.p...
Novus polishing compounds: www.novuspolish.com/
Jasco brand Paint and Epoxy remover: www.jasco-help.com/product/pre...
Micro Mark tools, etc.: www.micromark.com/?ns_md=cpc&...
Easy Mold: Silicone Putty (quick mold): www.amazon.com/Silicone-Moldi...
Easy Cast: Clear casting epoxy: www.eti-usa.com/easy-cast
Quick Cast: Polyurethane casting resin: www.tapplastics.com/product/m...
Renaissance: Micro-Crystalline wax polish: www.picreator.co.uk 
Хобби
Absolutely love watching you work. So much love, time and skill in each repair!
this is my new favorite channel. I seeing broken items repaired! Bravo
I am an artist. Kind of. Have 99% of the supplies and watching your restorations really sparked my interests. Now I just gotta muster up the courage to put something back together that most of us would normally sweep up and toss. Really like your work. Thanks for sharing.
Thanks, Jay! Good luck to you!
Very interesting. Thank you
if your low fire ceramic is porous and u r using water based adhesive, it is a good idea to lightly wet(with a brush dipped in water) the ceramic before applying the adhesive. this will prevent the ceramic from wicking the water out of the adhesive too quickly, creating a weak(er) bond.
"lightly wet" as in dampen. do not leave any water on the surface. apply only enough to dampen the area.
Yes, good point. Thanks for that tip.
You are a ABSOLUTE...BEAST!!!!!!
Grrr . . .
fabulous job ! for the last ten years I've lived above my Son's shop that sells gifts many of which are ceramics ! when accident's happen I'm constantly asked'Can you fix this Dad's ? I've become OK at this ! but would love to become more proficient in the art of Restoration I've heard you mention Milliput several times ! is there a way that I can find a list of all the different adesives fillers epoxys and cleaning agents and solutions to make my repairs more professional ? I would appreciate any advice on products and reading literature available. many thanks in advance.
Regards
Pablo
Pablo, I'm sorry for not responding to your question sooner. I didn't see it until just now.
This is a difficult question to answer in a simple fashion. I learned this skill as an apprentice, working for a highly regarded restoration studio. I already had an eclectic skill set as an artist, model-maker, carpenter. My skills dovetailed nicely into this field of work. The final painting over the repaired area is one of the difficult areas of restoration, even for me. You need the skills of an art forger. Restoration is a deep subject but I'll try to give you some answers that may be helpful. When confronted with a repair, the choices you make should be based on the material you are working with.
For cleaning: find a solvent which will remove what needs to be removed without damaging the item being cleaned. Start with gentle solvents and work your way up through successively stronger solvents until you find one that works. Be careful. Some ceramics are painted, not glazed.
For bonding agents, use the appropriate adhesive for the material being repaired. Porous materials require a penetrating adhesive. Non-porous require a different ones. Bonding dissimilar materials presents another problem. You'd be surprised how much you can find out just by doing an internet search based on bonding the specific material in question. You could use good old fashioned Elmers brand white glue for most porous ceramic materials. I'd use various kinds of epoxies for non-porous materials.
For fillers I use "A+B" brand epoxy for large areas of fill. I use Milliput for smaller areas and filling crack lines. I use these two epoxies for most jobs. "HXTL" is the epoxy I use for porcelain and glass objects.
It really pays to take your time to get as good alignment of the parts as you can while you are bonding parts together. The better you do this, the less work you'll make for yourself downstream in the repair process. A "rehearsal" build is a good idea, assembling the item without glue - using tape instead. It can help you avoid a situation where you can't get the last piece into place.
Good problem-solving skills comes in real handy in this business. A lot of times the key to getting a job done comes down to to "how do I hold this thing together until the glue dries?"
Expect to buy or make tools as needed to get a job done. You'll acquire tools and materials as time goes by. Most will last a good while, but you'll wear out files like crazy.
Starter list of materials:
A+B epoxy putty
Milliput epoxy putty
HXTL epoxy (liquid)
UHU epoxy (high strength version)
Goldens brand artist paints and mediums
Sylmasta brand "Cold Glaze Pro"
Micromesh abrasives (Grits:1800 - 12000)
All this is just scratching the surface of this subject but I hope this provides you with a starting place from which to pursue this craft. Though I don't make "how-to" videos, you might learn something from watching them. My apologies for taking so long to answer your question. Good luck to you.
Very nice job I have a zebra missing top piece of ear if I use milliput to make that piece do I have to glue it on or can I just mold it on
You could do either or both. Milliput is an epoxy putty, so you can mold parts with it and you could use it as the "glue" to fasten that part onto your repair. Or you could just mold it in place on the part. It works both ways.
Good luck to you.
Hi this is AMAZING..I have a dragon were the scale broke as well...are scales easy to resculpt ?..and by any chance are you in the u.s?..
Thanks for the compliments Carlos. Yes, I would say scales are relatively easy to sculpt . . . if you can do that kind of thing.
Yes, I'm in the US; Northern California. There's a map on my web site: tesserak.com, on the " contact" page.
Lindooo...
What type of glue can I use to fix a plaster home interior wall decoration?
Elmer's white glue would be perfect for this job.
What kind of putty are you using to fill in the scales and "missing" spots. As I have a few statues myself that got broke and I have to re-sculpt the broken areas.
The product is called "Milliput" epoxy putty.
@@marsgitar Thank you very much.
What is the cost for a repair of this nature?
I think that job was between $200-$300.
what kind of glue is that? Elmer's?
yes.
@@marsgitar I would just start saying yes too... lol. I bet you get that question every video. keep up the good work
Glue??
Yes. It's an excellent way to hold things together.
Good ole Elmer's ......who knew 🤔
eeeh? just white elmer's glue?
Yes, Elmer's. For porous object repair it is an excellent choice.