Indeed it is interesting how adhesives and other materials like your mold have changed so many areas of repair and preservation. In my hobby machine shop, sometimes the correct adhesive applied the right way yields both a cleaner and stronger repair than welding!
Did you filmed the all restoration? May we/i see it? I'd loved it! I have a chronical disease, and I'm learning so much with this videos, and i finally can work, in this area, from home, of corse, in my country. i'm so happy and gratefull to you. Thank you so much! I'm your number one fan! :)
Thank you pasteleiro98 for the compliment. On this particular video I did not film the rest of this restoration. Although I am not making "how to" videos, teaching you how to do ceramic repairs, I'm glad that you are picking up information and inspiration to do your own repairs. There are many other videos on this channel that do show the entire repair.
Martin Scherer thank you so much. I was curious if you could do a video on the basics... maybe a studio tour showing all the equipment (I’m curios about your hot box, type/brand of airbrush) and materials you use... brands, how you mix paints (I see lots of golden bottles and I wondered if they had mediums if so what kind). How do determine which adhesive to use, etc. I would really appreciate it. Thank you for all the help. 😊
I don't remember how much I charged for this repair. This video shows only a small portion of the repairs done on this tureen. I'm guessing that the whole repair was something in the $200 dollar range.
Do you use the same kind of mold material to make a 3D piece? Like having to make an arrow - would you stick the arrow into the mold and remove the arrow next day? Or would you use some other mold material? thanks
The mold making material I'm using here is what I use when I need a quick-made mold, which is a little stiffer than other silicone molds, and when the the part I'm copying is a simple shape. For more complex silicone molds I use a different product which I can adjust for viscosity (from very runny to very thick) and an adjustable final density once the mold is cured. That one is: Silicon RTV System. Sold by TAP plastics. Still there are other mold materials I use, and it all depends on how difficult the thing I need to copy is. Also, the material I will be casting in a given mold might determine what kind of mold material I use. Sometimes the casting is poured into the mold, and sometimes a much thicker putty has to be stuffed into the mold. So, I guess, the answer to all three of your questions is: Yes.
This video only shows a part of the repairs to this tureen. The total cost was something like $300. If I were to just repair the foot, as seen in this video, the cost would be something close to half that amount.
Martin,very interesting to watch you do this patient work, I bought an old huge chinese vase for 5.00$ because it had been repaired at many places. I want to correct what has been done so could you give me a few pointers. you can see this video under '" Badly repaired chinese vase. '' thank you kindly,
Denyse, that's a lovely vase and I don't blame you for wanting to fix it up. I don't know what your skill level is, so I'll just give you some info and let you sort it out. I'd recommend that you watch a few of my repair videos; perhaps try "dragon vase repair" and "antique porcelain doll head repair" and maybe, "Chinese porcelain urn repair" for starters. Though I don't make "how-to" videos you can pick up valuable information just from watching. If after viewing some of my videos you still have specific questions, I'm happy to answer them for you. Essentially, the better the damaged object is put together (the physical repair) the easier it is to get a good result of the cosmetic portion of the repair. If the vase repair is badly aligned, I'd want to take it apart and put it together with better alignment. If you want to repair this vase without dismantling it and starting from scratch, which is OK if it's not too badly out of alignment, you could do that. Dismantling previous repairs is not for the faint of heart. It can be extremely difficult and time consuming, not to mention the nasty chemicals one has to use. Too much to go into here at this time. This vase doesn't look too bad from what I've seen in the video. To go from it's present state with the repair, essentially you will be filling cracks, chips and other voids. Also you'll have to smooth the transition at misaligned segments (fill in the "step"). Fill, file and sand until smooth everywhere. Once that's done to satisfaction, I'll put a final coat of "cold glaze" (a 2-part catalyst based acrylic clear coat formulated for restorers) to make the surface of the object perfectly smooth around all the repaired areas. Once you sand this layer, it will also give you a surface with "tooth" for good paint adhesion. You don't need to cover the whole object with this coating, only around the areas you've repaired. Then you get to the cosmetic part of the repair. Color matching is an important skill here. I usually start by painting the background color in with an airbrush. All the other glaze colors on the original are on top of this color and will be effected by it. After the background color, it's a matter of getting your paint to look like their glaze. When all the detail painting is done, it's back to several layers of airbrushed on Cold Glaze feathering out to a light coating. That's followed by sanding with about a half dozen ever lighter grades of micro-mesh special "sandpaper". This removes the "orange peel" from the sprayed on clear coat and feathers out the transition to the original unpainted surface, hopefully seamlessly blending your clear coat into the original clear glaze. There is an alternative to the above, lengthy and difficult job. It is called "Kintsugi", a Japanese repair method where the damage is highlighted with a gold welt on all the cracks and voids. There are lots of videos on how to do this. Good luck to you on that repair. If you have specific questions as you go along, perhaps I can answer them for you.
thank you very much for your input. I have never done this before so I will practice with cheap broken pottery , small items to begin with . Until i am confident I can do it I will practice on something else for sure. I will check out these videos now. thanks a mil . Martin.
The only one that I know of is called HXTL. It is designed as an adhesive for glass. I use it on glass and on porcelain objects mostly. It is not easy to work with, and takes days to cure instead of minutes or hours. I find it versatile and very strong. It is not sold in stores.
Another Q: why did you use the epoxy that you made the mold of to "glue" it onto the foot, instead of the stuff you used on the arm of the "Uriela" statue? thanks again
In the case of this video, I used the same material that I used to cast the foot as I did to "glue" the foot onto the tureen. That material is a type of thick epoxy putty I use to make missing parts to ceramic objects - it is also an adhesive, so . . . why not use it?
Just wanted to mention you do excellent work. Love watching and learning.
Indeed it is interesting how adhesives and other materials like your mold have changed so many areas of repair and preservation. In my hobby machine shop, sometimes the correct adhesive applied the right way yields both a cleaner and stronger repair than welding!
Beautiful piece, good job .
Did you filmed the all restoration? May we/i see it? I'd loved it! I have a chronical disease, and I'm learning so much with this videos, and i finally can work, in this area, from home, of corse, in my country. i'm so happy and gratefull to you. Thank you so much! I'm your number one fan! :)
Thank you pasteleiro98 for the compliment. On this particular video I did not film the rest of this restoration. Although I am not making "how to" videos, teaching you how to do ceramic repairs, I'm glad that you are picking up information and inspiration to do your own repairs. There are many other videos on this channel that do show the entire repair.
Fantastic...Nice Job!!!
Good job.
Thanks you!
What gold paint did you use for the foot? Thank you for all your wonderful insight! It's been amazing.
Sylmasta Brand Gold Paints. It's a set of about a half dozen metalic paints. I don't remember that exact shade I used on this piece.
Martin Scherer thank you so much. I was curious if you could do a video on the basics... maybe a studio tour showing all the equipment (I’m curios about your hot box, type/brand of airbrush) and materials you use... brands, how you mix paints (I see lots of golden bottles and I wondered if they had mediums if so what kind). How do determine which adhesive to use, etc. I would really appreciate it. Thank you for all the help. 😊
Very well done, so may I ask the estimate of that repair price? I am eager to know for such intricate work well done
I don't remember how much I charged for this repair. This video shows only a small portion of the repairs done on this tureen. I'm guessing that the whole repair was something in the $200 dollar range.
Do you use the same kind of mold material to make a 3D piece? Like having to make an arrow - would you stick the arrow into the mold and remove the arrow next day? Or would you use some other mold material? thanks
The mold making material I'm using here is what I use when I need a quick-made mold, which is a little stiffer than other silicone molds, and when the the part I'm copying is a simple shape. For more complex silicone molds I use a different product which I can adjust for viscosity (from very runny to very thick) and an adjustable final density once the mold is cured. That one is: Silicon RTV System. Sold by TAP plastics. Still there are other mold materials I use, and it all depends on how difficult the thing I need to copy is. Also, the material I will be casting in a given mold might determine what kind of mold material I use. Sometimes the casting is poured into the mold, and sometimes a much thicker putty has to be stuffed into the mold. So, I guess, the answer to all three of your questions is: Yes.
Thank you again for your reply. Very helpful. Appreciate it.
Your repair was fascinating, what does something like that cost?
This video only shows a part of the repairs to this tureen. The total cost was something like $300. If I were to just repair the foot, as seen in this video, the cost would be something close to half that amount.
Martin,very interesting to watch you do this patient work, I bought an old huge chinese vase for 5.00$ because it had been repaired at many places. I want to correct what has been done so could you give me a few pointers. you can see this video under '" Badly repaired chinese vase. '' thank you kindly,
Denyse, that's a lovely vase and I don't blame you for wanting to fix it up. I don't know what your skill level is, so I'll just give you some info and let you sort it out.
I'd recommend that you watch a few of my repair videos; perhaps try "dragon vase repair" and "antique porcelain doll head repair" and maybe, "Chinese porcelain urn repair" for starters. Though I don't make "how-to" videos you can pick up valuable information just from watching. If after viewing some of my videos you still have specific questions, I'm happy to answer them for you.
Essentially, the better the damaged object is put together (the physical repair) the easier it is to get a good result of the cosmetic portion of the repair. If the vase repair is badly aligned, I'd want to take it apart and put it together with better alignment. If you want to repair this vase without dismantling it and starting from scratch, which is OK if it's not too badly out of alignment, you could do that. Dismantling previous repairs is not for the faint of heart. It can be extremely difficult and time consuming, not to mention the nasty chemicals one has to use. Too much to go into here at this time.
This vase doesn't look too bad from what I've seen in the video. To go from it's present state with the repair, essentially you will be filling cracks, chips and other voids. Also you'll have to smooth the transition at misaligned segments (fill in the "step"). Fill, file and sand until smooth everywhere. Once that's done to satisfaction, I'll put a final coat of "cold glaze" (a 2-part catalyst based acrylic clear coat formulated for restorers) to make the surface of the object perfectly smooth around all the repaired areas. Once you sand this layer, it will also give you a surface with "tooth" for good paint adhesion. You don't need to cover the whole object with this coating, only around the areas you've repaired.
Then you get to the cosmetic part of the repair. Color matching is an important skill here. I usually start by painting the background color in with an airbrush. All the other glaze colors on the original are on top of this color and will be effected by it. After the background color, it's a matter of getting your paint to look like their glaze. When all the detail painting is done, it's back to several layers of airbrushed on Cold Glaze feathering out to a light coating. That's followed by sanding with about a half dozen ever lighter grades of micro-mesh special "sandpaper". This removes the "orange peel" from the sprayed on clear coat and feathers out the transition to the original unpainted surface, hopefully seamlessly blending your clear coat into the original clear glaze.
There is an alternative to the above, lengthy and difficult job. It is called "Kintsugi", a Japanese repair method where the damage is highlighted with a gold welt on all the cracks and voids. There are lots of videos on how to do this.
Good luck to you on that repair. If you have specific questions as you go along, perhaps I can answer them for you.
thank you very much for your input. I have never done this before so I will practice with cheap broken pottery , small items to begin with . Until i am confident I can do it I will practice on something else for sure. I will check out these videos now. thanks a mil . Martin.
lovely!
Do you know of a brand of clear epoxy that doesn't yellow?
The only one that I know of is called HXTL. It is designed as an adhesive for glass. I use it on glass and on porcelain objects mostly. It is not easy to work with, and takes days to cure instead of minutes or hours. I find it versatile and very strong. It is not sold in stores.
Another Q: why did you use the epoxy that you made the mold of to "glue" it onto the foot, instead of the stuff you used on the arm of the "Uriela" statue? thanks again
In the case of this video, I used the same material that I used to cast the foot as I did to "glue" the foot onto the tureen. That material is a type of thick epoxy putty I use to make missing parts to ceramic objects - it is also an adhesive, so . . . why not use it?
Thank you for your reply. Appreciate the insight.
Why didn't you use gold leaf?
It was the customer's choice to go with a less expensive option.
Martin Scherer Ah ok it makes sense...eventhough here it is inexpensive comparatively...
Nice, but, that 24kt gold is not that easy to replicate
4:55-4:58 that's what she said XD
Is this Chinese? It looks like early 19th century Derby.
Yes, you are correct. It is Derby. Sorry for the labeling mistake. I'll correct that. Thanks for pointing this out.
Martin Scherer Thanks. Don't like to seem to be a know all, but I have collected Derby for about 40 years.