I cannot tell you how much I appreciate the time and effort that you put into these video’s. The money that I am saving with your help is huge ! So all I can say is THANK YOU....THANK YOU...THANK YOU!!!!!
Hi, I picked up my new FJR1300ES about 2 years ago, your videos are my go to when I am looking for info. I took your advice , while my rear wheel was off I inspected the front end of the drive shaft (spline) ALMOST didnt do it thinking Yamaha did it correctly. Well my 2021 had ZERO signs of any grease. After cursing, I did it up right. Thank you for all the hard work you put into making your videos.
One of the best DIY videos I have ever seen. Spot on for everything. Very clear and view was right where I needed it to be. I even deared to get into the drive shaft for inspection because of the quality of content!! Even the info on the grease was useful and usually most DIY's don't cover that type of info.
Great video. A couple things I would add after doing this several times, go ahead and remove the front fender before removing the front wheel. Makes it much easier to roll the wheel out and back in. And make sure you wipe down the rotors with brake cleaner before you slide the calipers back on in case you did get a touch of grease on there.
Nice... straight to the point and very thorough.. very explicit and didn't miss any details. I got it done the same afternoon for my FJR that had sit for over three years. Thanks Man!!! saved me $600 I was going to pay to a no-call no show technician. Loved your video.
Just greased the front and rear axle on my 2019 FJR after 2800 miles and yes they were bone dry and the rear axle is already showing corrosion. Thank you for the vid, so informative and easy to follow.👍
Very pleased I found this video. 5 minutes for the back wheel and ten for the front. Some corrosion on both axles and all five pinch bolts but splines greased. Thank you so much for sharing.
2006 FJR1300 (blue if it matters lol) - Just did this, completely because of your video! I needed tires, but I would have never had the guts without watching, thank you sir! My Axles were dry as a bone (no pitting thankfully) and I had surface corrosion on the driveshaft from not being lubricated (not even a film). Rear tire teeth @ the 'pumpkin' had some grease, i cleaned and re-did it for peace of mind. Thanks again, scared the hell out of me (I had to leave the bike on jackstands for 3 days because of shipping...grrr) but it got done!!
Thanks for the video. I'm glad my dealer is competent as the front axle was greased when I removed mine for a tire replacement. All your videos on the FJR are first rate.
Hey Byan, great video. I just checked my '13 today, followed your video to the letter and I had no issues. Thank you for this. My axel and final drive were fine. I did clean and re-grease. However the Drive-shaft was virtually bone dry with no (very little) grease. Well I fixed that right up. Glad I did. This bike just rolled over 22k miles when I got it. I put on almost 2300 in the first month. I'll be checking the front next weekend. Thanks for what you do.
Thanks for your great vids Bryan. One note on the driveshaft splines is that the u-joint has a spline drive on the transmission side as well as the driveshaft side. The u-joint needs to be removed to lube the front splines but this can be done without removing the swingarm. This also allows inspection of the u-joint integrity. Thanks again for your great vids.
I told my wife i had reasons to keep all my textbooks over the years! You never know when you need them. Math is always involved. Especially in this case! Bravo!
TwoWheelObession! Yes I said that right! Thank you so much for this video. I've watched several so far and you have performed 110% beyond the normal. Thank you sir for highlighting the extra steps including grease composition etc. This is certainly an A+ DIY TODO video for use FJR owners. Well done.
I know this is an old video, but I wanted to comment on the fact that most service departments are not worth a crap. Took delivery of a brand new Yamaha and I showed up to pick it up it had almost no gas, clock was not set, tires were both 15psi low on air and no oil was showing in the sight glass, mirrors were still loose. I'm tearing into it this weekend just because your video is more proof of everything they don't do either at the factory or the dealer.
Thanks to you and these clear and user friendly vids, I have gained an edge with maintenance and an advantage in cost savings; not to mention insightful knowledge of value regarding the FJR. Bravo.
thank you for your in depth videos, so very helpful. i actually bought the 2015 can am f3s based on your in depth review. very discouraging that bikes are coming so un setup from the factory, unlubed, loose bolts, nuts, etc. once again excellent video series. thank you !!!
As always, great videos. First place I come to for info on DIY'ing my FJR. Had to take the front wheel off today so this vid came in very handy. Only difference for me was I didn't want to have to take the back wheel off so instead I took the mudguard off instead (fender in USA talk). Four bolts is all and made the wheel removal easy. Thanks again from South Australia.
Front axle nut discovery.. RUclips gold!!! Man I'm gonna be doing this whole procedure the second I get my new bike home.. but will surely be checking front axle nut is tight before leaving the dealership. Great video brother!! Thanks for the tips👍
Hey, I've just pulled my rear axle and the final drive shaft as per your recommendation and NO Grease!!!! I ride a 2018 FJR 1300A. Thanks for the great videos. I never would have tried it if not for seeing you do it. No problems getting the final drive shaft back up into the gearbox.
Re. front axle loose bolt... the end of the forks are clamping down onto the axle via the 4 allen bolts. Even if the axle bolt falls off, the clamps of the shocks still hold the shaft.
just a suggestion, before tightening bolts down - mount the calipers leaving bolts loose, then take bike off centerstand roll it forward and apply brakes (still with bolts loose) 2-3 times, then put the bike back on the center stand and tighten things down to spec. In the honda service manual they suggest this procedure to make sure all the parts are in alignment. otherwise love the video, I'm thinking of getting a older FJR myself and wanted to see what the service for it looks like (IRL, not in the manual).
Thanks Bryan! I appreciate how thorough you are in walking us through it all. A problem (of my own creation) was not keeping track of which front spacer collar was left and right. I put it back together reversed (Murphy’s law) and on my 1/2 block test ride felt it dragging. I wasn’t entirely sure why but new it was bearings of calipers. Came back home and pulled it apart...started over and determined I must have them reversed. Put it in correct and its perfect. Plus I have the confidence of knowing the bike now :-). All your vid’s are helpful.
Thanks, Bryan ! Probably wouldn’t attempt it without watching your video. Did both tires the other day took front and back off FYI you can remove just the front wheel. If you take the front fender off you don’t have to jack it up as high to get it off !
Thanks for the video, good starting point. I found an improvement. Before tightening the 'pumpkin' you can insert the axle to ensure alignment of the pumpkin when you tighten the acorn nuts.
All good but I got into the habit of tightening the rear axle 1st before the pumpkin nuts for good alignment. This was required on 80's Hondas so the splines wouldnt tear out and it seemed sound so I do it on all......
Hi I've watched a few of your videos and appreciate them. I wanted to say I think you need a motorcycle lift, that a person such as yourself would greatly benefit from having one. You get into big stuff! and your FJ weighs almost a half a ton. Harbor freight sells an inexpensive useful one and Titan sells the best on market high dollar one. Keep up the good videos! Ron
Very good Bryan. There was one angle that I didn't see and that was placing the rear axle sleeve on the left side when reassembling. Again, great video.
So much for Japanese perfection on the assembly line ( Loose front wheel nut). Using a bit of fine Emory cloth on the front shaft would remove the corrosion and pitting without harming the shaft. Great video Bry, Thanks..
Great information, thanks! I would like to add that on a 2013 FJR the front wheel spacers are different thickness so if your not paying attention and switch these, the calipers will be slightly miss aligned with the rotors, causing the pads to drag.
Very good and detailed information videos. I was very apprehensive to start prying on the dash plastic covers, however your headlight LED video was all I needed to ensure my confidence to get into this without worry of busting plastic parts up, they are expensive to replace I expect. Cheers,
Great video, thanks! I did not need the axle hex for the front, just use an extension to drive out the axle enough to grab it. If Someone insists on having a 19mm hex, Amazon sells one that has 17, 19, 22 and maybe more in stepped up tool. Also, you can leave the front rotors in place until you remove the axle (but pull the bolts) and they come off super easy with the wheel lowered. One place I am anal about torque specs is the forks, especially any pinch bolt. My new to me 2016 had all the pinch bolts at way higher torque than needed. Bad things can happen when this is the case.
Another great video that is quite helpful. Thanks@ I would like to leave my own opinion on the factory grease subject, if that's OK. As for the rear axle grease, there is nothing that moves or rotates against this axle. It is fixed into the swing arm and final drive, and the rest is just through the centre of bearings, of which the part touching the axle does not move. The factory applies a light film of lubricant likely just to protect against rusting. There should be NO lubricant applied to the 'lug' part of the axle (the part that goes inside the right side swing arm) as that part is NOT supposed to turn at all. As for the grease at the front end of the final drive shaft, confirmed that there is very little to no grease from factory. There is almost no movement between the splines and u-joint anyway, but a tiny bit of grease can not hurt and would prevent rusting. I'd suggest being careful to keep excess grease to a minimum so as not to attract dirt there. Also, I did not see if the U-joint coupling is like a sealed cup where it attached to drive shaft. If so, putting grease on the shaft MIGHT be a bad thing to do. I remember an incident with a popular helicopter's tail rotor shaft that was very similar to this one. When excess grease was applied, it made an air tight seal in the coupler. When the vehicle went to a higher altitude, the air trapped in the coupler expanded, pushing the drive shaft outward. This applied a little bit of force on the rear shaft bearing that it was not designed for and caused bearing failure. In that case, the tail rotor seized and flying was done for the day. An important service bulletin was issued to NOT grease the shaft splines except in a very specific way and exact (tiny) amount. Subsequent couplers had 'breather' holes in them. I can see an FJR going from, say, sea level to 10,000 feet, and you would surprised how much force that could put on the shaft laterally. So, just beware. I put on a SMALL amount of Honda Moly 60 grease on the splines, just enough to protect it a bit but hopefully not so much as to make an air tight seal - just in case that coupling is air tight. Thanks again. Keep up the great work!
Love these vids. Here is another data point to your loose front axel nut mystery. I am a aircraft mechanic. I use a torque wrench no matter if I think I have a good sense of torque, which I dont. I tested myself. I am on my third front tire change on my 2014 FJR. I know I torqued the axel nut properly. When I went to take off the nut yesterday, it came off looser than I would have liked. Now I am wondeing if I should mark my calander and check the torque six months from now.
Great step by step vid. just back from a 5500 mile trip out west. had only 550 miles on a 2016 ES before I left. Oil change before and after. low miles because I took your advice and sent my seat to Seth Laam. Oh ya, enough said. I live 30 minutes from Dennis Kirk in MN. Free mount and balance with tire purchase,I'm trying Bridgestone T30's first. Really interested to see if parts are greased. Thanks for all your advice Travis
Nice to meet you the other day (Tom - black 2008 FJR). Thanks for making these informative videos for us. Ride safe. (note - the driveshaft splines on both my 2003 and 2008 FJRs were fairly dry from the factory).
Nice job with the videos Bryan. I just purchased an FJR 1300 2015 model that was drastically reduced. I'd be pissed about the front axle nut. I'd take that video to the dealer and also contact Yamaha. When I purchased my Yamaha, I received a letter and email from Yamaha in California wanting me to describe my experience. You need to bring that issue up with Yamaha. They grade the dealers on these customer satisfaction surveys. I'm doing some work on mine today and will definitely check that nut. Good riding....
My daughter lives South of you in Naples, FL. My wife and I wish she would move as it is frekin expensive there. She wanted warmer weather than what we have in Canton, OH. She sure got it with Naples and so did a nice price tag. Placing fog lamps/LEDS to the side of my FJR for visibility. LED's are great for placing additional lights at little watts..
followed your video and used your recommended greases...Worked great. Like your bike, the spinal lacked grease. everything else had a fair amount of grease but cleaned and lubed. Thanks Bryan
I had trouble removing those calipers but MUCH better success when I used 'external lock ring pliers' to retract the pads/pistons. I used these pliers years ago to work on a manual transmission. This "reverse operation" plier is not the pin type but has a flat "jaw" to push against the pad backing which extends slightly out past the pad. Tool also called 'retaining ring pliers'.
I noticed the challenge you had removing the front axle. What I do to ease that task is to unscrew the axle bolt until there's only a couple threads holding it to the axle. Then tap the bolt lightly with a rubber mallet until the bolt flange comes up against the fork. That will have pushed the axle out far enough to where you can easily grab it by hand and pull it the rest of the way out.
Rather than using an Allen key, I would suggest a 6mm Allen head socket for your ratchet. A few bucks spent will be well rewarded in ease of future wheel removals & installations. At good tools stores, you can buy singles; no need to buy a whole set when one or two sizes suit most of your needs. The 6mm fits the rear brake trailing link, the front pinch bolts, and brake discs.
Long time bikerider here but first FJR for me. Thanks for all the handy howto's, very helpful! But I have to ask, did you really use the torque wrench to loosen the rear wheel nut? I would have been crucified during my work as an Airforce mechanic, it messes with the torque settings (calibration out of spec), same as letting it click twice when torqueing bolts or nuts... Just sayin', keep up the good work!
One more thought as I remove the wheels from my 2016 FJR for the first time...( I did this on my 2003 many times but it was slightly different and did not have ABS like my 2016 ). On the rear wheel, if you remove the bolt at the forward end of the brake trailing link, the whole brake caliper with hoses etc drops down and out of the way. No need to remove that plastic clip.
Brian, great video. Watching it allowed me to remove the both wheels on my 2018 FJR and take them to the tire retailer to have new tires mounted. My question is, after I installed the rear tire, axle and tire, if I tighten the nut on the axle over 30 lbs, the rear wheel will not be able to spin. I have rode the bike and it rides well but I do not feel comfortable at having the nut at such a low fps. What do you think I did wrong with the install of the rear wheel.
I love this video I haven't gotten my bike yet I'm on the fence about the fjr1300 I hear a lot about the ticking in the engine can you elaborate on that....I trust your input and thanks again keep up the good work
Very good and informative video. I probably wouldn't attempt it, I don't have the tools or patience (and there aren't enough swear words in the English language) to do all of this. I did tighten to spec my front and rear axel bolts when I got my bike and after tire replacement. I had the shop ensure that the axels were cleaned and greased properly. Curious if you noticed any difference in riding you may have gotten after greasing the axels.
thehexter1 No - it's to prevent damage, wear and corrosion, not for any kind of rolling resistance. The wheels ride on the bearings, not the axle itself.
Wow you could have spun that axle nut off by hand, Scary. On my last 500 mile leg home I pulled in for fuel. now noticing my stem nut is GONE. Freaking out, Sunday in the middle of South Dakota. Somehow I look down at the front tire,there it was. Thank you Lord. What are the odds? Specs call for 82 ft. lbs. PEOPLE check your bike. A lucky lesson learned
Old vid, new comment. when you re lubed the drive shaft and re inserted it into the Universal joint, did you consider the other half of the universal joint being dry as well?, the front half? I recently did the same job on my Gen 2. A couple more screws and removed the Universal joint,, cleaned it and re lubed both ends. I also remove my wheels to take to the dealer for new tires, 2 more bolts, RH exhaust mount to foot peg and the pipe clamp, 1 minute work and the muffler is out of the way. Works better for me. IMO 2005 model, purchased off original owner at 30K km now has 90K km and I just did this same rear end work. I also believe you made and error. when you re torqued the pumpkin to the swing arm, this should have been done AFTER the rear wheel and axle was reinstalled for better alignment, again IMO Great Vid, wish I had the equipment and the knowledge to produce informative vids, I have it all in my head, just not tech savvy. Cheers From Australia.
Great video! Wow! That was scary shit with the front axel! I just checked mine and all is fine, thank god! I sure do miss living in Florida, riding in Utah in 2016 has sucked, constant bad weather. Thanks for the videos, please keep them coming. if you are in the west give me a hollar.
Hi Bryan. Going to be doing the drive shaft service soon. Is it very difficult to get the shaft back in? I've never done it before, all of my previous bikes were chain driven. Just don't want to mess anything up. Thx!
I saw that you use a Batlax bt023 tyre. How do you like them and have you ever tried the Michelin pilot roads? I am after several other bikes come from a Yamaha Fazer 1000 and liked the Pilot powers very much. They were fantastic in the rain. Nearly as good as in the dry. And they are very good in dry conditions also.Very easy steering and very light handling. My FJR was fit with the bt023 but I don't like them at all. Steering flatters around 90 Km/h and at speed with the topcase on and a windy day they are realy bad. Constanly movement in the steering. So I like to know how the Pilot roads are. B.t.w. a shame that the axle was so badly greased! I checked mine and thank god it was nice and greasy.
+BBFazer Hi from Germany! I drive the Michelin Pilot 4 on my bike and the tires absolutly great! Wet conditions = no problems. Very good grip wet an dry, superb handling when new. Now after 6000 kilometres the handling is still very good. I think the Michelin is good for 2000-3000 kilometers more.
hi , great videos you got there and i watch every one of them and subscribed to your channel. By any chance you’ll be making middle gear backlash measurement and adjustment ?
Quick question. Once that rear is all buttoned up and torqued to spec, should that ABS sensor have any movement to it, or should it be snugged down in place? Thanks
Very educational...and HS&^T cant believe your front axle was only finger tight; I can confirm that these are dealer mounted based on my experience w/ my 2015 FJR at 600miles all four front fender screws were loose to the point I lost one. I had just happened to stop on the Blue Ridge Pkwy with a friend to take in some sights when we noticed the issue. I now have accumulated 2300miles and I am thinking this lube service over the winter would be well worth it based on what you showed at only ~3000 miles.Again, thanks and keep sharing :-)
Question: Is it really necessary to have grease on the axle itself? Wouldn't you want the axle to remain stationary within the collar of the wheel bearing so the bearing can do its job more effectively? Correct me if I'm wrong but if the wheel bearings on a bike are like those on (the few) cars I've worked on, the inner and outer collars are held firmly in place for a reason - to let the bearings themselves do all the work. I'm new(ish) to the bike scene and love vids like this - thanks for posting!
ElroyMcDuff Sorry ignore my first reply I misread thought you said splines. The grease on the axle is only for corrosion protection. As you saw when it was tightened, it gets squished out between the bearings and collars just fine. The races do not spin on it whatsoever. While the manual does not call for the added layer it's a widely accepted and very old technique.
TwoWheelObsession Ah, I see - I thought it might let some parts move that shouldn't. =P I'll definitely give this service a try on the '05 I just bought - it had 29k miles on it and seems to be well maintained - I just hope someone kept some grease in there! I also hope they bring back that red if/when it comes time to get another FJR - that's a beautiful bike!
Hi Bryan, I purchased a 2020 FJR in November 2022 and it now as just 5k miles. I've been a DYI student of yours from day one and you have helped me so much! I am about to pull the spline and cannot find the lube you have specified locally today. Just wondering if you have any comments about Sta-Lube CV Joint Grease by CRC It is part number SL3174. Would this be OK to use? Any input you can offer is appreciated. I can always delay the project to order the Mobil one product. Thanks! Joe
Glad you found that loose axle nut. Just goes to show you that you really cant trust anyone to do things right especially where your life might depend on it.
Came to see some FJR wrenching...very meticulous.....but for god's sake please wear some shoes in the garage! Drop something on your foot just one time is all it takes. You took the time to protect your bike with an algebra book and towels under the fork bottom. Take the time to protect yourself too.
Nice legs! LOL.... Hey, thanks for all the videos. This helps a lot as I'm getting ready to pull my rear wheel for the first time. I may have missed it, but what is the torque spec for the big 27mm rear axle bolt when I put the rear back on?
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Yamaha and the FJR community owe you big time. Great quality videos as well. All you are doing is invaluable. Wow. You are a dying breed, Sir.
I cannot tell you how much I appreciate the time and effort that you put into these video’s. The money that I am saving with your help is huge ! So all I can say is THANK YOU....THANK YOU...THANK YOU!!!!!
Hi, I picked up my new FJR1300ES about 2 years ago, your videos are my go to when I am looking for info. I took your advice , while my rear wheel was off I inspected the front end of the drive shaft (spline) ALMOST didnt do it thinking Yamaha did it correctly. Well my 2021 had ZERO signs of any grease. After cursing, I did it up right. Thank you for all the hard work you put into making your videos.
Nicely done videos; finally, someone who understands the need to for clean audio, and understands concepts of video.
One of the best DIY videos I have ever seen. Spot on for everything. Very clear and view was right where I needed it to be. I even deared to get into the drive shaft for inspection because of the quality of content!! Even the info on the grease was useful and usually most DIY's don't cover that type of info.
Thx!
Great video. A couple things I would add after doing this several times, go ahead and remove the front fender before removing the front wheel. Makes it much easier to roll the wheel out and back in. And make sure you wipe down the rotors with brake cleaner before you slide the calipers back on in case you did get a touch of grease on there.
Just in case you miss it in Brian's description section: The rear axle nut torque is 90 lbs./ft.
Nice... straight to the point and very thorough.. very explicit and didn't miss any details. I got it done the same afternoon for my FJR that had sit for over three years. Thanks Man!!! saved me $600 I was going to pay to a no-call no show technician. Loved your video.
Just greased the front and rear axle on my 2019 FJR after 2800 miles and yes they were bone dry and the rear axle is already showing corrosion.
Thank you for the vid, so informative and easy to follow.👍
Very pleased I found this video. 5 minutes for the back wheel and ten for the front. Some corrosion on both axles and all five pinch bolts but splines greased. Thank you so much for sharing.
2006 FJR1300 (blue if it matters lol) - Just did this, completely because of your video! I needed tires, but I would have never had the guts without watching, thank you sir!
My Axles were dry as a bone (no pitting thankfully) and I had surface corrosion on the driveshaft from not being lubricated (not even a film). Rear tire teeth @ the 'pumpkin' had some grease, i cleaned and re-did it for peace of mind.
Thanks again, scared the hell out of me (I had to leave the bike on jackstands for 3 days because of shipping...grrr) but it got done!!
Thanks for the video. I'm glad my dealer is competent as the front axle was greased when I removed mine for a tire replacement. All your videos on the FJR are first rate.
Hey Byan, great video. I just checked my '13 today, followed your video to the letter and I had no issues. Thank you for this. My axel and final drive were fine. I did clean and re-grease. However the Drive-shaft was virtually bone dry with no (very little) grease. Well I fixed that right up. Glad I did. This bike just rolled over 22k miles when I got it. I put on almost 2300 in the first month. I'll be checking the front next weekend.
Thanks for what you do.
Thanks for your great vids Bryan. One note on the driveshaft splines is that the u-joint has a spline drive on the transmission side as well as the driveshaft side. The u-joint needs to be removed to lube the front splines but this can be done without removing the swingarm. This also allows inspection of the u-joint integrity. Thanks again for your great vids.
I told my wife i had reasons to keep all my textbooks over the years! You never know when you need them. Math is always involved. Especially in this case! Bravo!
TwoWheelObession! Yes I said that right! Thank you so much for this video. I've watched several so far and you have performed 110% beyond the normal. Thank you sir for highlighting the extra steps including grease composition etc. This is certainly an A+ DIY TODO video for use FJR owners. Well done.
I know this is an old video, but I wanted to comment on the fact that most service departments are not worth a crap. Took delivery of a brand new Yamaha and I showed up to pick it up it had almost no gas, clock was not set, tires were both 15psi low on air and no oil was showing in the sight glass, mirrors were still loose. I'm tearing into it this weekend just because your video is more proof of everything they don't do either at the factory or the dealer.
Thanks to you and these clear and user friendly vids, I have gained an edge with maintenance and an advantage in cost savings; not to mention insightful knowledge of value regarding the FJR. Bravo.
thank you for your in depth videos, so very helpful. i actually bought the 2015 can am f3s based on your in depth review. very discouraging that bikes are coming so un setup from the factory, unlubed, loose bolts, nuts, etc. once again excellent video series. thank you !!!
As always, great videos. First place I come to for info on DIY'ing my FJR. Had to take the front wheel off today so this vid came in very handy. Only difference for me was I didn't want to have to take the back wheel off so instead I took the mudguard off instead (fender in USA talk). Four bolts is all and made the wheel removal easy. Thanks again from South Australia.
Front axle nut discovery.. RUclips gold!!!
Man I'm gonna be doing this whole procedure the second I get my new bike home.. but will surely be checking front axle nut is tight before leaving the dealership.
Great video brother!! Thanks for the tips👍
Hey, I've just pulled my rear axle and the final drive shaft as per your recommendation and NO Grease!!!! I ride a 2018 FJR 1300A. Thanks for the great videos. I never would have tried it if not for seeing you do it. No problems getting the final drive shaft back up into the gearbox.
I really enjoy all of your videos, but this one was by far the most informative of all. Great job, thanks!!!
Thanks for a vid that shows how seemingly simple things can have very major implications. This is a real MUST SEE for used shaft drive bike buyers!
Once again Bryan, great video that will not only save fellow riders REAL money BUT possibly their lives too! Well done.
Well said Christian.
Thanks for sharing this with us. I much prefer seeing a video than reading a manual. :)
Re. front axle loose bolt... the end of the forks are clamping down onto the axle via the 4 allen bolts. Even if the axle bolt falls off, the clamps of the shocks still hold the shaft.
If that was my front axle, I would have stopped what I was doing and gone down to the dealer and had some words!!!!! You showed great restraint!
just a suggestion, before tightening bolts down - mount the calipers leaving bolts loose, then take bike off centerstand roll it forward and apply brakes (still with bolts loose) 2-3 times, then put the bike back on the center stand and tighten things down to spec. In the honda service manual they suggest this procedure to make sure all the parts are in alignment. otherwise love the video, I'm thinking of getting a older FJR myself and wanted to see what the service for it looks like (IRL, not in the manual).
Thanks Bryan! I appreciate how thorough you are in walking us through it all. A problem (of my own creation) was not keeping track of which front spacer collar was left and right. I put it back together reversed (Murphy’s law) and on my 1/2 block test ride felt it dragging. I wasn’t entirely sure why but new it was bearings of calipers. Came back home and pulled it apart...started over and determined I must have them reversed. Put it in correct and its perfect. Plus I have the confidence of knowing the bike now :-). All your vid’s are helpful.
Thanks, Bryan !
Probably wouldn’t attempt it without watching your video. Did both tires the other day took front and back off FYI you can remove just the front wheel. If you take the front fender off you don’t have to jack it up as high to get it off
!
Thanks for the video, good starting point. I found an improvement. Before tightening the 'pumpkin' you can insert the axle to ensure alignment of the pumpkin when you tighten the acorn nuts.
All good but I got into the habit of tightening the rear axle 1st before the pumpkin nuts for good alignment. This was required on 80's Hondas so the splines wouldnt tear out and it seemed sound so I do it on all......
Hi I've watched a few of your videos and appreciate them. I wanted to say I think you need a motorcycle lift, that a person such as yourself would greatly benefit from having one. You get into big stuff! and your FJ weighs almost a half a ton. Harbor freight sells an inexpensive useful one and Titan sells the best on market high dollar one. Keep up the good videos! Ron
Thanks a lot for putting up this video. I just pulled my front and rear wheels with ease thanks to you!
Very good Bryan. There was one angle that I didn't see and that was placing the rear axle sleeve on the left side when reassembling. Again, great video.
So much for Japanese perfection on the assembly line ( Loose front wheel nut). Using a bit of fine Emory cloth on the front shaft would remove the corrosion and pitting without harming the shaft. Great video Bry, Thanks..
Don't assume things. It's dealer installed.
It's Dealer fault, most new bike boxed without wheels, windshield, mirror and minor acc installed.
Great information, thanks! I would like to add that on a 2013 FJR the front wheel spacers are different thickness so if your not paying attention and switch these, the calipers will be slightly miss aligned with the rotors, causing the pads to drag.
Very good and detailed information videos. I was very apprehensive to start prying on the dash plastic covers, however your headlight LED video was all I needed to ensure my confidence to get into this without worry of busting plastic parts up, they are expensive to replace I expect.
Cheers,
Great video, thanks!
I did not need the axle hex for the front, just use an extension to drive out the axle enough to grab it. If Someone insists on having a 19mm hex, Amazon sells one that has 17, 19, 22 and maybe more in stepped up tool. Also, you can leave the front rotors in place until you remove the axle (but pull the bolts) and they come off super easy with the wheel lowered.
One place I am anal about torque specs is the forks, especially any pinch bolt. My new to me 2016 had all the pinch bolts at way higher torque than needed. Bad things can happen when this is the case.
Another great video that is quite helpful. Thanks@
I would like to leave my own opinion on the factory grease subject, if that's OK.
As for the rear axle grease, there is nothing that moves or rotates against this axle. It is fixed into the swing arm and final drive, and the rest is just through the centre of bearings, of which the part touching the axle does not move. The factory applies a light film of lubricant likely just to protect against rusting. There should be NO lubricant applied to the 'lug' part of the axle (the part that goes inside the right side swing arm) as that part is NOT supposed to turn at all.
As for the grease at the front end of the final drive shaft, confirmed that there is very little to no grease from factory. There is almost no movement between the splines and u-joint anyway, but a tiny bit of grease can not hurt and would prevent rusting. I'd suggest being careful to keep excess grease to a minimum so as not to attract dirt there.
Also, I did not see if the U-joint coupling is like a sealed cup where it attached to drive shaft. If so, putting grease on the shaft MIGHT be a bad thing to do. I remember an incident with a popular helicopter's tail rotor shaft that was very similar to this one. When excess grease was applied, it made an air tight seal in the coupler. When the vehicle went to a higher altitude, the air trapped in the coupler expanded, pushing the drive shaft outward. This applied a little bit of force on the rear shaft bearing that it was not designed for and caused bearing failure. In that case, the tail rotor seized and flying was done for the day. An important service bulletin was issued to NOT grease the shaft splines except in a very specific way and exact (tiny) amount. Subsequent couplers had 'breather' holes in them. I can see an FJR going from, say, sea level to 10,000 feet, and you would surprised how much force that could put on the shaft laterally. So, just beware.
I put on a SMALL amount of Honda Moly 60 grease on the splines, just enough to protect it a bit but hopefully not so much as to make an air tight seal - just in case that coupling is air tight.
Thanks again. Keep up the great work!
Love these vids. Here is another data point to your loose front axel nut mystery. I am a aircraft mechanic. I use a torque wrench no matter if I think I have a good sense of torque, which I dont. I tested myself. I am on my third front tire change on my 2014 FJR. I know I torqued the axel nut properly. When I went to take off the nut yesterday, it came off looser than I would have liked. Now I am wondeing if I should mark my calander and check the torque six months from now.
Great step by step vid. just back from a 5500 mile trip out west. had only 550 miles on a 2016 ES before I left. Oil change before and after. low miles because I took your advice and sent my seat to Seth Laam. Oh ya, enough said. I live 30 minutes from Dennis Kirk in MN. Free mount and balance with tire purchase,I'm trying Bridgestone T30's first. Really interested to see if parts are greased. Thanks for all your advice Travis
Nice to meet you the other day (Tom - black 2008 FJR). Thanks for making these informative videos for us. Ride safe. (note - the driveshaft splines on both my 2003 and 2008 FJRs were fairly dry from the factory).
Tom FJR Glad you could stop by lol!
This is fantastic. I can't thank you enough, Bryan.
Thanks for this! You spent a lot of time and effort doing this - Great Job!!!!
U know who is the best in servicing your bike???,yourself,kudos for wrenching on your bike
Trukerinfulleffect TRUTH
Nice job with the videos Bryan. I just purchased an FJR 1300 2015 model that was drastically reduced. I'd be pissed about the front axle nut. I'd take that video to the dealer and also contact Yamaha. When I purchased my Yamaha, I received a letter and email from Yamaha in California wanting me to describe my experience. You need to bring that issue up with Yamaha. They grade the dealers on these customer satisfaction surveys. I'm doing some work on mine today and will definitely check that nut.
Good riding....
The dealer went out of biz shortly after. Turnover here is ridiculous.
My daughter lives South of you in Naples, FL. My wife and I wish she would move as it is frekin expensive there. She wanted warmer weather than what we have in Canton, OH. She sure got it with Naples and so did a nice price tag. Placing fog lamps/LEDS to the side of my FJR for visibility. LED's are great for placing additional lights at little watts..
Excellent tutorial
Been watching lots of your videos as I have just bought a 2014 AE (your ES)
Top work fella 👍
followed your video and used your recommended greases...Worked great. Like your bike, the spinal lacked grease. everything else had a fair amount of grease but cleaned and lubed. Thanks Bryan
I own a 2013 FJR1300, Fantastic machine. Thank you very much for these videos, they are great!!
I had trouble removing those calipers but MUCH better success when I used 'external lock ring pliers' to retract the pads/pistons. I used these pliers years ago to work on a manual transmission. This "reverse operation" plier is not the pin type but has a flat "jaw" to push against the pad backing which extends slightly out past the pad. Tool also called 'retaining ring pliers'.
I noticed the challenge you had removing the front axle. What I do to ease that task is to unscrew the axle bolt until there's only a couple threads holding it to the axle. Then tap the bolt lightly with a rubber mallet until the bolt flange comes up against the fork. That will have pushed the axle out far enough to where you can easily grab it by hand and pull it the rest of the way out.
i knew an algebra book was good for something. now i got it.
I think you quoted every torque spec expect the one for the rear axle nut?
Awesome videos BTW.
Blackicer1 90 ft lbs.
@@TwoWheelObsession I think mine are on WAY too tight, I cannot get it loose!
Great Job! the quality of the video is exceptional.
+Louis Carlotti Thanks!
Rather than using an Allen key, I would suggest a 6mm Allen head socket for your ratchet. A few bucks spent will be well rewarded in ease of future wheel removals & installations. At good tools stores, you can buy singles; no need to buy a whole set when one or two sizes suit most of your needs. The 6mm fits the rear brake trailing link, the front pinch bolts, and brake discs.
Long time bikerider here but first FJR for me. Thanks for all the handy howto's, very helpful!
But I have to ask, did you really use the torque wrench to loosen the rear wheel nut? I would have been crucified during my work as an Airforce mechanic, it messes with the torque settings (calibration out of spec), same as letting it click twice when torqueing bolts or nuts... Just sayin', keep up the good work!
+Patrick Verbeek Woaw, Clicking twice is bad?? I gotta quit that then.. I had no idea.
One more thought as I remove the wheels from my 2016 FJR for the first time...( I did this on my 2003 many times but it was slightly different and did not have ABS like my 2016 ). On the rear wheel, if you remove the bolt at the forward end of the brake trailing link, the whole brake caliper with hoses etc drops down and out of the way. No need to remove that plastic clip.
Brian, great video. Watching it allowed me to remove the both wheels on my 2018 FJR and take them to the tire retailer to have new tires mounted. My question is, after I installed the rear tire, axle and tire, if I tighten the nut on the axle over 30 lbs, the rear wheel will not be able to spin. I have rode the bike and it rides well but I do not feel comfortable at having the nut at such a low fps. What do you think I did wrong with the install of the rear wheel.
I love this video I haven't gotten my bike yet I'm on the fence about the fjr1300 I hear a lot about the ticking in the engine can you elaborate on that....I trust your input and thanks again keep up the good work
Very good and informative video. I probably wouldn't attempt it, I don't have the tools or patience (and there aren't enough swear words in the English language) to do all of this. I did tighten to spec my front and rear axel bolts when I got my bike and after tire replacement. I had the shop ensure that the axels were cleaned and greased properly. Curious if you noticed any difference in riding you may have gotten after greasing the axels.
thehexter1 No - it's to prevent damage, wear and corrosion, not for any kind of rolling resistance. The wheels ride on the bearings, not the axle itself.
Thanks for making this video. I have just bought an ex police FJR1300 with 100000Km on the odo. I wonder if its drive shaft is still nicely lubed.....
This is a great step by step video. Thanks Bryan.
Another great how to -- don't think I will attempt this, but good to know how it's done! Thanks again
Mejor que los manuales de taller, es este buenísimo vídeo, gracias!
Wow you could have spun that axle nut off by hand, Scary. On my last 500 mile leg home I pulled in for fuel. now noticing my stem nut is GONE. Freaking out, Sunday in the middle of South Dakota. Somehow I look down at the front tire,there it was. Thank you Lord. What are the odds? Specs call for 82 ft. lbs. PEOPLE check your bike. A lucky lesson learned
Old vid, new comment. when you re lubed the drive shaft and re inserted it into the Universal joint, did you consider the other half of the universal joint being dry as well?, the front half? I recently did the same job on my Gen 2. A couple more screws and removed the Universal joint,, cleaned it and re lubed both ends.
I also remove my wheels to take to the dealer for new tires, 2 more bolts, RH exhaust mount to foot peg and the pipe clamp, 1 minute work and the muffler is out of the way. Works better for me. IMO
2005 model, purchased off original owner at 30K km now has 90K km and I just did this same rear end work.
I also believe you made and error. when you re torqued the pumpkin to the swing arm, this should have been done AFTER the rear wheel and axle was reinstalled for better alignment, again IMO
Great Vid, wish I had the equipment and the knowledge to produce informative vids, I have it all in my head, just not tech savvy.
Cheers From Australia.
Very good video with plenty of useful information within. Very surprised your axles were both dry from the dealer.
Great video! Wow! That was scary shit with the front axel! I just checked mine and all is fine, thank god! I sure do miss living in Florida, riding in Utah in 2016 has sucked, constant bad weather. Thanks for the videos, please keep them coming. if you are in the west give me a hollar.
Im glad I saw your video when you put the socket on the front wheel the nut was loose and immediately I thought that was dangerous
What’s the Torque value for the main rear 27mm nut? Please advise. Thank you! Great video!
Hi Bryan. Going to be doing the drive shaft service soon. Is it very difficult to get the shaft back in? I've never done it before, all of my previous bikes were chain driven. Just don't want to mess anything up.
Thx!
I saw that you use a Batlax bt023 tyre. How do you like them and have you ever tried the Michelin pilot roads? I am after several other bikes come from a Yamaha Fazer 1000 and liked the Pilot powers very much. They were fantastic in the rain. Nearly as good as in the dry. And they are very good in dry conditions also.Very easy steering and very light handling. My FJR was fit with the bt023 but I don't like them at all. Steering flatters around 90 Km/h and at speed with the topcase on and a windy day they are realy bad. Constanly movement in the steering. So I like to know how the Pilot roads are.
B.t.w. a shame that the axle was so badly greased! I checked mine and thank god it was nice and greasy.
+BBFazer Hi from Germany! I drive the Michelin Pilot 4 on my bike and the tires absolutly great! Wet conditions = no problems. Very good grip wet an dry, superb handling when new. Now after 6000 kilometres the handling is still very good. I think the Michelin is good for 2000-3000 kilometers more.
Thank you so much for this video and your detailed information! You helped me really much with it! Thx from Austria ✌😊
Just did this on my used, but new to me 2006 FJR..... Thank you for the video
Paldies, ļoti noderīgs video. Man ļoti palīdzēja.
hi , great videos you got there and i watch every one of them and subscribed to your channel. By any chance you’ll be making middle gear backlash measurement and adjustment ?
There is no adjustment nor is it needed
Quick question. Once that rear is all buttoned up and torqued to spec, should that ABS sensor have any movement to it, or should it be snugged down in place? Thanks
Snug
Love the videos! I've got a '13 so these are super helpful! By the way, what kind of seat is that?
Thanks! Laam
When I saw the loose front wheel nut, I stopped and ran out to check mine! It was tight. Phew!
Great video!!!! Helped me out a lot :)
Keep the great work up
Én a két kipufogót csak lekaptam volna, sokkal jobban hozzá lehetne férni mindenhez. De nagyon hasznos volt a videó, nagyon köszönöm!!!
hello, I have a fjr model 07, I want to lubricate the driveshaft, you know if it's the same procedure?
Very educational...and HS&^T cant believe your front axle was only finger tight; I can confirm that these are dealer mounted based on my experience w/ my 2015 FJR at 600miles all four front fender screws were loose to the point I lost one. I had just happened to stop on the Blue Ridge Pkwy with a friend to take in some sights when we noticed the issue. I now have accumulated 2300miles and I am thinking this lube service over the winter would be well worth it based on what you showed at only ~3000 miles.Again, thanks and keep sharing :-)
How about servicing amortization levers (progression) of the rear suspension and check ware of spacers and bearings?
Question: Is it really necessary to have grease on the axle itself? Wouldn't you want the axle to remain stationary within the collar of the wheel bearing so the bearing can do its job more effectively? Correct me if I'm wrong but if the wheel bearings on a bike are like those on (the few) cars I've worked on, the inner and outer collars are held firmly in place for a reason - to let the bearings themselves do all the work.
I'm new(ish) to the bike scene and love vids like this - thanks for posting!
ElroyMcDuff Sorry ignore my first reply I misread thought you said splines. The grease on the axle is only for corrosion protection. As you saw when it was tightened, it gets squished out between the bearings and collars just fine. The races do not spin on it whatsoever. While the manual does not call for the added layer it's a widely accepted and very old technique.
TwoWheelObsession Ah, I see - I thought it might let some parts move that shouldn't. =P I'll definitely give this service a try on the '05 I just bought - it had 29k miles on it and seems to be well maintained - I just hope someone kept some grease in there! I also hope they bring back that red if/when it comes time to get another FJR - that's a beautiful bike!
2 by 6 board under center stand or smaller and raise gives you added clearance. Many tires changed this way...same on front.
Hi Bryan, I purchased a 2020 FJR in November 2022 and it now as just 5k miles. I've been a DYI student of yours from day one and you have helped me so much! I am about to pull the spline and cannot find the lube you have specified locally today. Just wondering if you have any comments about Sta-Lube CV Joint Grease by CRC It is part number SL3174. Would this be OK to use? Any input you can offer is appreciated. I can always delay the project to order the Mobil one product. Thanks! Joe
Any heavy duty grease will work
I watched a lot of your video also I learned a lot from you even though I haven’t got my bike yet I’m getting
YAMAHA MT-09. 2020
Glad you found that loose axle nut. Just goes to show you that you really cant trust anyone to do things right especially where your life might depend on it.
Has Yamaha resolved this possible issue as six years have gone by? I bought a 2021 FJR new.
Came to see some FJR wrenching...very meticulous.....but for god's sake please wear some shoes in the garage! Drop something on your foot just one time is all it takes. You took the time to protect your bike with an algebra book and towels under the fork bottom. Take the time to protect yourself too.
Nice legs! LOL.... Hey, thanks for all the videos. This helps a lot as I'm getting ready to pull my rear wheel for the first time. I may have missed it, but what is the torque spec for the big 27mm rear axle bolt when I put the rear back on?
I am not sure but it seems Valvoline Durablend gray grease is discontinued. What is the alternative grease to use?
unbelievably good detailed video. Thanks.
Thanks!
did I miss installing the rear axel nut?????? Torque? Before or after the pinch bolt?
I can't seem to find the valvoline dura syn blend moly grease for the hub splines anywhere. Good recommendation for another option?
This saved me a lot of money and time.
38:20 I believe there is also shorter spacer on the right side view inboard of the abs sensor, just learned that the hard way.
Ditto. I feel better knowing that I'm not the only one who did this.